Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner (1952)
WAY OUT WEST IN TEXAS by
NEW YORK CORNER: BRASSERIE by John Mariani
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR: Rosé Wines Get Bigger and Some Get Better by John Mariani
WAY OUT WEST IN TEXAS
by John Mariani
The Gage Hotel
101 Highway 90 West
It takes a while to get anywhere in Texas,
so that the idea of driving from any point in the state to Marathon is
not much more daunting than driving from Houston to Dallas. Well,
it is a hike, and there's
little in Marathon to hold your interest for more than the two minutes
it takes to drive through the town. But 39 miles away there is
the great Big Bend National Park, which, aside
from a lack of deep, serpentine gorges, has as much beauty about it as
Canyon and a lot more to see than in Monument Valley.
NEW YORK CORNER
by John Mariani
100 East 53rd Street
As detailed in my book The Four Seasons, the great Seagram Building (left) designed by Mies van der Rohe on Park Avenue was, with the Lever House across the street, an instant totem of the International Style of architecture that was to dominate New York and other U.S. cities for more than two decades. Opened in 1958, its tower of offices, with an immense set-back and plaza, needed to be anchored by a ground floor of equal eminence--24,000 square feet set under the front pillars and graduated down to Lexington Avenue to the east. There were ideas to install an art gallery, a bank, the American Crafts Museum, even a Cadillac showroom (especially since Frank Lloyd Wright had put a Mercedes-Benz showroom in the building at 56th Street and Park).
Putting a restaurant into the Seagram Building was an idea proposed by Restaurant Associates--RA--and, since Mies van der Rohe had no interest in such a project, his protégé Philip Johnson was hired to work with RA's own designer, Bill Pahlmann, to create a restaurants like no other before or since. The Four Seasons was the crown jewel of RA's many restaurants, most of them themed, like the Forum of the Twelve Caesars and Fonda del Sol. On the north end of the building RA put in a more casual restaurant called the Brasserie, whose principal virtue was to be open 24/7. Still, the food was to be of a high order in an American brasserie fashion, and its jet age, subterranean design was strikingly different from both the Four Seasons or any other restaurant anywhere. A 1971 review by Forbes Magazine said the Brasserie had "cold-cool decor and the coolest, coldest crowd in town" (whatever that means) and that "It's probably New York's most sophisticated unrich restaurant."
The Brasserie has always been more proletarian than its upscale neighbors, The Four Seasons and, more recently, the Lever House Restaurant, but its current chef, Franklin Becker, has brought a luster to the food that I think is as good or better than those high-priced power lunch spots.
Becker has an amazing ability to deliver on what is all too often merely a cliché in others' hands--straightforward but wholly imaginative American food based on the finest ingredients available. You've heard that claim a million times before, I know, but at the Brasserie it is the real deal, a perfect amalgam of ingredients and cooking processes that result in dishes that are absolutely delicious and amply American in idea and proportion.
The dining room itself, which seats 130, was redone two years ago by Ricardo Scofido & Elizabeth Driller, and still has a space age luminosity about it, though, except for its sloping gangway, it bears no resemblance to the original design. There is a backlighted wall of wine bottles, good tablecloths, and wineglasses. The lighting is both soft and revealing, with the food showing off all their color and form, and the wonderful side booths, with subtle variations of color, are like shimmering alcoves of light and intimacy while not seeming in any way shut off from the whole. It's a very happy place to be, and quite the same at breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
The short menu with big type and a cover that seems to be a kind of hologram is very user friendly, with 11 appetizers, plus raw bar options, six seafood items, two "chicken & eggs," two meat, and five steaks, which, admirably, come with French fries and sauces you'd otherwise spend another ten bucks for in any NYC steakhouse. We started off with finely textured grilled octopus simply dressed with lemon and spiked with hot pepper oil. A terrine of foie gras--always a Becker specialty--comes with strawberry and rhubarb compote, and a salad of asparagus with spring onions and sunflower sprouts is served warm, which gives a small twist to the idea. So, too, when I moaned to see yet another tuna tartare and beet salad on yet another menu, Becker promised his were different, and they were, just enough to make me smile that there is always something wonderful about a cliché rethought and revived: The tuna tartare was flattened into a thin sheet, served with avocado, cucumber, and relish, and the red and gold baby beets were sliced and lapped over each other, with Humboldt Fog goat's cheese. Not earthshaking, just delicious. Had a French chef done the same items, he might have sprinkled crushed truffles on them and charged three times more.
So, too, grilled Mediterranean sea bass needed nothing more than lemon, parsley, and olive oil to bring out all the fish's own flavor. The only off-note of the evening were some pan-roasted sea scallops with artichokes because the scallops were watery and flavorless.
Pan-roasted "Giannone Chicken" with asparagus, wild mushrooms and a fine old-fashioned Madeira sauce, did deserve having its producer being named, for this is a signature bird, fleshy and full of flavor all on its own, so that the sauce merely anointed its excellence. Best of all--and perhaps the very finest lamb I've ever had--were pan-roasted Colorado chops, big and meaty, with a perfect rind of fat and a chewiness that revealed more and more flavor with every bite. Accompanied by peas and carrots and new potatoes, it was testament to American food and Colorado lamb. We also tried some terrific side dishes, including great French fries and nicely herbaceous spaetzle.
All of which made us anticipate desserts that proved of equal standing, including a trio of chocolates (luscious pot de creme, deep dark sorbet, and creamy tarte) and a trio of raspberries (vanilla raspberry coupe, sorbet, and crisp rice pudding), and a candied ginger soufflé glacé with rhubarb-orange compote and honey crisp.
A meal at the Brasserie speaks volumes about how far American cuisine in a master chef's hands has become. I cannot imagine the most fastidious French or Italian or Japanese chef not delighting in the good, honest flavors of such food.
Brasserie is open for breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri., and for dinner Mon.Thurs. till midnight, Fri. & Sat. till 1 AM, Sun. till 10 PM.; Brunch Sat. & Sun. Dinner appetizers range from $10-$16, main courses $19-$42. There is a 5-course tasting menu at $65 (with wines $95), and 7 courses at $85 (with wines $125)--both amazing prices for this caliber of food, when most high-end restaurants in NYC charge an average of $90 for three courses and steakhouses charge $40 and more for steak only, without side dishes.
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
Rosé Wines Get Bigger
and Some Get Better
Let’s be honest: Many American winelovers, including this one, cut our palates on rosé wines like Lancer’s, Mateus, and Riunite Lambrusco—all of them fizzy, all of them sweet, all of them real cheap. Indeed, I recall the moment I decided I’d become a sophisticate when, I broke out a bottle of Rose d’Anjou, which was neither fizzy nor sweet, for a “serious date.” That bottle must have cost me at least four dollars.John Mariani's weekly wine column appears in Bloomberg Muse News, from which this story was adapted. Bloomberg News covers Culture from art, books, and theater to wine, travel, and food on a daily basis, and some of its articles play of the Saturday Bloomberg Radio and TV.
Like me, most winelovers grow up to relegate rosé wines to some unvisited limbo between whites and reds. Rosés are pale but pretty wines appropriately drunk at a seaside bistro in
Rosés are made by crushing red grapes and allowing the skins to be in short contact—8 to 48 hours--with the juice to obtain a pink or salmon-like color. The best known French rosés are usually made from grenache in Tavel and Lirac in the Southern Rhone Valley, while in
In Spain rosés are called rosados, in Italy rosatos, in South Africa Blanc de Noir , and in California, more often than not, blush wines, including the once faddish white zinfandel.
I’m told that there has been a slow rise in interest in rosé wines at
I assembled a slew of rosés along with a BLT sandwich to taste them with. The salty, smoky bacon, the sweetness and tang of the tomato, and the crisp lettuce seemed to bring out the best in the wines. I might also have elected to make a salade niçoise, perhaps some grilled mackerel or bluefish with a squirt of lemon.
My overall reaction was that the deeper the rosé hue the richer the flavor, and the older the rosé the more it has to lose. Thus, just as an experiment, I tasted a Spanish Viña Tondonia Crianza 1995 ($25) whose salmon color was tinged with a telltale brown: the wine had oxidized a long time ago and was undrinkable.
The rest were all from 2005 or 2006. The palest of these—just barely pink—was a Robert Sinskey Vineyards Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2006 ($20) from California’s Napa Valley. Despite a lack of much color it had a nice acidic bite on the palate and a hint of sweet fruit beneath, finishing well if not brilliantly. Despite its French name, Copain Le Printemps Rosé 2005 ($18) comes from Mendocino County. It had a deep rosy hue and plenty of fruit, though barely any bouquet at all and faded fast. Its principal virtue seemed to me that it was refreshing.
Two French examples proved very different but very dull. Château de Passavant 2006 ($18) from the Loire Valley had a very odd, distastefully herby flavor, not unlike dry anisette, which might be all right with a Marseilles bouillabaisse or fennel tart with sardines, but not much else. Mas du Fadan Côtes du Ventoux 2006 ($12) showed true to form as a Rhone made no dents in my palate at all with any degree of pleasure.
The two deepest-colored wines I tried were easily the best and most delightful: Crios de Susana Balbo Rosé of Malbec 2006 from Argentina was not only well priced at $12 but a really lovely wine, quite rich in bouquet and body, ruby red with raspberry flavors, and a long finish. Best of all was a wine I might characterize as a light red rather than a rose—Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Il Mimo Colline Novaresi Nebbiolo 2006 ($15), with a big cherry aroma and flavor, a mouth-filling wine that is a lot better than most white Croatina wines from the same territory of Ghemme.
These last two rosés I would drink with pleasure as an aperitif or with light summer foods, charcuterie, cheeses, and especially oil fishes like salmon, mackerel, mullet, and bluefish. The rest I wouldn’t much care to drink again.
I did, for a moment, think of trying some Mateus or Lancer’s just for fun, but by then I’d run out of BLT.
THE REAL REASON TONY BLAIR RESIGNED!
"If Tony Blair found time this week to read a survey published in The Grocer magazine, he must have been devastated. . . . After all, no one goes into public life expecting one day to find that only 2 percent of senior people in the dairy industry thinks the Government is supportive enough of the cheese industry. And which of us could truly sleep at night once we discovered that 52 percent consider this Government to be actively 'anti-cheese'?"--Natalie Haynes, "Anti Cheese? Excuse me while I process that," The Times (May 5, 2007).
A tanker train carrying Coors beer crashed into a parked locomotive and spilled beer into downtown Denver.
* Beginning June 14, the St. Regis Resort in
* Chicago’s Adobo Grill will host two tequila dinners at each of its Chicago locations: June 20: Wicker Park will feature Cazadores Tequila, $35 pp; June 28: the Old Town location will present Tequila Casa Noble, $43 pp. Chef Freddy Sanchez will prepare special menus for each dinner. Call 773-252-9990 (
* From June 28-July 1,The 26th Annual Kapalua Wine & Food Festival will be held, with a Grand Tasting of over 100 internationals wines with the Spanish-inspired cuisine of The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua culinary team led by Chef John Zaner. Eight nationally acclaimed Master Sommeliers will feature “Sommelier’s Choice” selections. Also, cooking demos by national chefs, a seafood festival, with guest chef Michael Mina, of Michael Mina in
* Circa 1886 in
* Now through Labor Day at Wright’s at The Arizona Biltmore, the “Dinner & A Movie” offers and evening of American Lodge Cuisine and children 12 and younger eat free, while watching popular movies on the Biltmore’s “big screen.” Saturday at the resort is “Dive-In Movie” night at the Paradise Pool. A Cabana Special will be offered on Saturday nights this summer: $75 for four hours.
Everett Potter's Travel Report:
I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor to National Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star places as five-star experiences." To go to his blog click on the logo below:
Tennis Resorts Online: A Critical Guide to the World's Best Tennis Resorts and Tennis Camps, published by ROGER COX, who has spent more than two decades writing about tennis travel, including a 17-year stretch for Tennis magazine. He has also written for Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel, New York Magazine, Travel & Leisure, Esquire, Money, USTA Magazine, Men's Journal, and The Robb Report. He has authored two books-The World's Best Tennis Vacations (Stephen Greene Press/Viking Penguin, 1990) and The Best Places to Stay in the Rockies (Houghton Mifflin, 1992 & 1994), and the Melbourne (Australia) chapter to the Wall Street Journal Business Guide to Cities of the Pacific Rim (Fodor's Travel Guides, 1991). Click on the logo below to go to the site.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Editor/Publisher: John Mariani. Contributing Writers: Robert Mariani, Naomi Kooker, Kirsten Skogerson, Edward Brivio, Mort Hochstein, Suzanne Wright. Contributing Photographers: Galina Stepanoff-Dargery, Bobby Pirillo. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.
Any of John Mariani's books below
may be ordered from amazon.com by clicking on the cover image.