Chill Wills (?),
Dinah
Shore and Bob Hope were but three of scores of show business stars who
worked and entertained for servicemen at The Hollywood Canteen,
located at 1451 Cahuenga Boulevard in Hollywood, between October
3,
1942 and November 22, 1945. HAVE A
GOOD LABOR DAY WEEKEND! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
➔ QUESTIONS? TO REACH JOHN MARIANI
WRITE
TO: newsletter@johnmariani.com.
➔ ARCHIVE: Readers
may now access
an
Archive of all past newsletters--each annotated--dating back to July,
2003, by simply clicking on www.johnmariani.com/archive
➔ SUBSCRIBE AND
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to this newsletter--free of charge--by
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~
☛ In
This Issue
NEW YORK CORNER:
SD26 by
Christopher Mariani
QUICK BYTES
Aspen
& Vail
Jerome
B.
Wheeler
is
the
father
of
Aspen.
During
the
height
of
Colorado’s
silver
boom,
he co-owned Macy’s,
constructed the Wheeler Opera House and built the Hotel Jerome,
ushering in
cosmopolitan civility t
And
you
know
you’re
in
the
West:
the
tall,
handsome
doormen
wear
black
cowboy
hats
with rakish
flair. The
94 elegant and spacious rooms maintain a Victorian flavor but feature
double-basin marble vanities, custom-made wallpaper and flat screen
TVs.
Centrally located, the hotel’s Library is a popular watering hole (I
liked the
frothy sidecar) and the J-Bar serves great casual fare (try the
pigs-in-a-blanket with plump, house-made apple wood-smoked sausage).
Closer
to
the
“front
range”
of
the
Rocky
Mountains,
Aspen
draws
more
Denver
residents
and
history
buffs.
The mountains here have an immediacy; one local described Aspen as “a
neighborhood with a mountain in the middle.”
Afterwards,
at
the
Ajax
Tavern
(above) attached to The Little
Nell at the base of the gondola, I join a throng of sun
worshipers
under a cloudless cobalt sky for chicken liver pâté with
peach preserves,
truffled fries with Parmigiano-Reggiano, gazpacho studded with Alaskan
king
crab and Colorado lamb Bolognese. Lunch is a hearty affair in the
aptly
named Roaring Fork Valley, though I’ve hardly burned any
calories.
Aspen
and Vail have long vied for
tourism dollars during the ever-lucrative ski season and the
increasingly
popular summer season. Each has a distinct sense of place,
with
unique “personalities” that attract different crowds. Aspen is more
politically liberal and
show biz glitzier than Vail—the Aspen
FilmFest
draws celebrities and status-seekers comb
the outposts of tony international boutiques, from Burberry to
Prada. Vail is more Republican conservative; no wonder Gerald
Ford was resident in Vail and has an amphitheater named after him,
where the symphony plays.
Vail
Village
is
a
European-style
pedestrian
town
modeled
after
Austrian
burgs,
with
chalet-influenced
architecture.
I'm
there
on a not untypical picture
postcard day.
After a scrumptious lunch of pasta with lobster and shrimp at Up the Creek overlooking
Gore Creek, I hit the Lodge’s newly
refurbished spa, decorated with
warm sandstone, river rocks and knotty alder wood, and always packed
with guests.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~ NEW YORK CORNER Many
New
York
gourmets
have
wondered
what
effect
the
leaving
of
executive
chef
of
fourteen
years,
Odette Fada, Over cocktails (see my article below on SD26’s new drinks menu) prior to dinner, I tried two of chef Bergamini’s small dishes at the restaurant’s stylish bar; one was the papa col pomodoro, a dish that stems from Tuscan peasant cookery, made with lightly cooked tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, and fresh basil mixed together with country bread that soaks up the sweet flavors of the pomodoro sauce. The second dish was Sicilian chickpea fritters, perfectly crisp on the outside and soft and warm on the inside, with a side of sweet roasted peppers sauce.
Bergamini’s
pasta
dishes
are
among
the
best
in
NYC,
combining
authentic
Italian
ingredients
with
a
refined
preparation
that
could go head to head against Italy’s finest. The
risotto with triglie
(red mullets), nettles
and bee pollen was cooked perfectly al
dente and had a wonderful balance of sweet and bitter flavors. The leek-and-potato ravioli were
covered by a summery pesto sauce as
good as any in Genoa, the city that claims to have originated the
basil-based sauce. Unlike
many
Italian
American
restaurants
that
tend
to lose steam by the main course, SD26
continued
to amaze me with flavorful main dishes, a section of the menu where
many
Italian chefs seem to shrug but where I feel Bergamini showcases his
best
talents. I shared an
order of the succulent beef Do
save
room
for
dessert,
especially
pastry
chef
Jerry
Thornton’s
stracciatella
ice cream. For something a bit
richer, the chocolate-hazelnut dome is probably the only dessert I have
ever
tasted that trumps the wonderful hazelnut flavor of Nutella
straight out of the jar. SD26
has
set
the
bar
for
modern
Italian
restaurants
in
NYC,
free
of clichés, combining a fine dining service staff, a romantic
atmosphere, and
best of all, dishes that are consistently innovative throughout the
entire menu. With Tony and Marisa firmly committed to ideals and
standards they themselves set when the original San Domenico opened two
decades ago, SD26 is a restaurant where you go to learn as much as to
feast on contemporary cucina
all'italiana. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Before
dining at SD26
(above),
I conducted a cocktail tasting at the restaurant’s bar and was delighted
Here
are
my
five
favorite
SD26
cocktails:
-Prosecco -Campari -Cointreau
SD26 Negroni -Akvinta
vodka -Aperol -Cucumber I was a bit leery about the SD26 Negroni at first, only because I truly love the classic gin preparation, yet when I tasted it, the drink was delicious. The Mediterranean Akvinta Vodka made with Italian wheat is the key difference in the cocktail; the Aperol is an Italian aperitif comparable to Campari that serves as a substitute for the bitters, and the cucumber adds an enjoyable refreshing finish.
-Passion
fruit -Citrus
vodka The Passiflora is a light drink that I could see myself enjoying on the island of Capri while watching the sunset. I am not one to praise sweet drinks, but I am a big fan of this cocktail because, even though the floral flavors of the passion fruit were present, I still knew I was drinking a vodka cocktail. The Prosecco simply adds a nice texture to the drink with just the right amount of bubbles.
La Verita -Rye
Whiskey -Maple
syrup -Bitters The La Verita is a very simple cocktail with a nice hint of sweetness from the maple syrup and a slightly spicy finish from the fresh black pepper. I was very happy to finally find a well-balanced whisky cocktail, considering that a good whiskey should stand by itself drank either neat or on the rocks.
Fragola Selvatica -Hendrick’s
Gin -Strawberry -Chevril
`````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````` NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
Controversial
Wine
Consultant
Puts
Rep
on
the
Line
with
His Own Argentine Blend Clos de los
Siete is made in an unfined and unfiltered blend of 56 percent
malbec—the
principal fine wine grape of Mendoza--21 percent merlot, 11 percent
syrah, 10
percent cabernet sauvignon and 2 percent petit verdot (the blend may
change in
any vintage) in the Uco Valley south of Mendoza, Argentina’s finest
wine
region. Plenty of sun, high humidity and low rainfall coupled with
sandy soil
and clay make for ideal conditions for such varietals, and all of them
come
together in Clos de los Siete’s soft and velvety texture (typical of
merlot)
together with the fruit intensity of the syrah, the mild tannins of the
cabernet, and ballast and spice of the late-ripening petit verdot. At 14.5 percent
alcohol, Clos de los Siete seems to bolster the media’s
characterization of
Rolland’s advocating red wines whose deliberately overripe fruit, high
alcohol,
and use of long aging in oak produce “fruit bombs” that win medals in
competition. Many critics, myself included, decry such wines as often
being out
of balance, headache-inducing and closer to Port than red wine. A 2004 a New
York Times article on
Rolland (right) was entitled
“Satan or Savior: Setting the Grape
Standard” and in the 2004 documentary film “Mondevino” Rolland is shown
at
several properties advising clients to use a technique called
micro-oxygenation
that can help tame down tannins and soften wines. “It’s all crap!”
Rolland
bellowed over the phone to me in an interview. “Nothing is true in that
f-----g
movie! In some European wineries micro-oxygenation is helpful but you
don’t
need it in New World wines because there is so much sun to build up the
sugars.” Rolland has some
formidable partners in Argentina, including Rhone Valley vigneron
Catherine
Pere-Vergne and Benjamin de Rothschild, owner and CEO
of LCF Rothschild
Group. With such resources he was able to switch traditional
Argentinean “parral” trellising and pruning methods to traditional
systems used in Bordeaux. Drip
irrigation keeps the vines “stressed,” to allow the bare minimum of
water.
Grapes are all hand picked, and the wines aged for 11 months, 70
percent in new
French oak, the rest in vat. Rolland
and
his
partners
are
very
cognizant
that
they
might have a big winner on their
hands
with Clos de los Siete, which means that consistency is key. “In many
ways it
is more difficult to make 50,000 cases than 10,000 because you have to
take
care of everything before blending. With small production, a winemaker
has the
luxury of selecting from many parcels of grapes and wines; with big
production,
you have to get the best on a large scale right away.
And with global export the labels cannot have any variance
or mistakes about what’s in the bottle.” Rolland chose
Argentina because of its terroir, labor costs, and the open-mindedness
of the
New World. And he loves the sunshine, which builds up the sugars that
convert
into 14-plus degrees alcohol. “When you have that much sun, you don’t
need or
want to manipulate the wine to have more alcohol. It’s
the
natural
way
of
the
fermentation.” Controversy may
yet swirl around Rolland and his methods, but Clos de los Siete proves
that he
can make a serious red wine to rival cult wines ten times the price. At
least
he can with 50,000 cases. When Clos de los Siete gets to 100,000 cases,
things
should get interesting. John Mariani's wine column appears in Bloomberg Muse News, from which this story was adapted. Bloomberg News covers Culture from art, books, and theater to wine, travel, and food on a daily basis. ``````````````````````````````
![]() BUT HE DID ANSWER TO THE NAME "CHIQUITA"
"With
the arrival of Cumin, you can finally pick up some biryani with your
gold
American Apparel stretch pants."--Heather Shouse, "Cumin" City Chicago.
```````````````````` QUICK BYTES ✉ Guidelines for submissions: QUICK BYTES publishes only events, special dinners, etc, open to the public, not restaurant openings or personnel changes. When submitting please send the most pertinent info, incl. tel # and site, in one short paragraph as simple e-mail text, WITH DATE LISTED FIRST, as below. Thanks. John Mariani
* From Sept. 6 – 12, in Shanghai, China, Spain's Pavilion Gastronomy Program (49 Michelin stars) is featuring Gabriel Kreuther (one Michelin star), from The Modern restaurant, NYC), cooking the with Spanish chef Tomeu Caldentey (one Michelin star), from Majorca. Clients at the Acqua Restaurant at Gran Melia Shanghai Hotel can choose a long menu ($115,836pp.), the medium menu ($96,726pp.) or the short menu ($77,616pp.). 0086-21 3867 9777. www.thenewgastronomyfiesta.com
* On
Sept. 8 in NYC, Stella
Artois will present the Regional Draught Master competition,
with local contestants vying for a chance at the national competition
in Boston
on Sept. 17. The event will also incl. food pairings, beer recipes and
area
draft masters to discuss the brand and the beer. Visit www.pwrnewmedia.com/2010/stellaartois00812/index. * From Sept.
10-19 in Denver, CO, the Denver Beer Fest will include 150
beer-centric events
ranging from Oktoberfest to the Great American Beer Festival, and
events in
between incl: beer-paired dinners, meet the brewer nights, beer
tappings,
brewery tours and a variety of entertaining beer events. www.DenverBeerFest.com;
call
800-233-6837.
*
From Sept. 10 - 19, in Denver, CO,
Elway's Downtown at The Ritz-Carlton, Denver celebrates the Second
Annual
Denver Beer Fest with a 'Tour de Colorado -- on Tap' serving up only
local
brews on tap, beer and small plate combos and a brewers tasting from
Great
Divide. Call 303-312-3107. * On
Sept 14th in NYC, Lure Fishbar presents Sonoma meets
SoHo, a 4-course
wine dinner featuring the Hanzell Vineyards and Amapola Creek. $135pp.
Call 212-431-7676 or info@lurefishbar.com.
*
On
Sept.
14
in
NYC, Chef Scott
Campbell
and a group of local farmers, cheese makers, wine producers, baker and
Ariane
Daguin of D'Artagnan will host a 5-course farm-to-table Harvest Dinner
al
fresco on the patio of New Leaf Restaurant. Proceeds benefit Bette
Midler’s
New York Restoration Project. $125 pp. Call
212-568-5323 or visit www.newleafrestaurant.com.
* On Sept.
14, in La Grange, IL, Bella
Bacinos hosts Susan Ridley, partner at the Hendry Winery, for an
extensive
tasting of Hendry's Napa Valley wines with light fare and artisanal
cheese. $39
pp. Call 708-420-9600.
*
On
Sept. 15 in NYC, Wine Down teams up
with Boutari wines and Chef Cat Cora to host a celebration of food,
wine
and the Mediterranean lifestyle at L'ybane
Wine Bar & Restaurant.
$50 pp
Visit
www.winedown.eventbrite.com.
*
On Sept. 15 in NYC, Wine Down, America’s premier wine
tasting party, teams up
with Boutari wines and Iron Chef Cat Cora to host a celebration of
food, wine
and the Mediterranean lifestyle at L'ybane Wine Bar & Restaurant.
$50 pp
(Use Discount Code "Boutari" to save $10). For tickets, visit
www.winedown.eventbrite.com. * On Sept. 15
in Charlotte, NC, Mez presents a dinner featuring wine
pairings
from Russian Hill Estate in the Russian River Valley. Special guest
James Kopp
of Acme Wine Marketing and Chef Anoosh Shariat will serve a special
menu. $55 pp. Call 704-971-2400. . . . On Sept. 17 Mez
presents a dinner featuring wine pairings
from Argentina’s Bodega Catena Zapata. In attendance Catena’s Florencia
Peyera will discuss Mendoza’s high altitude vineyards and
the new book about the flourishing Argentine wine country. $60 pp.
* On Sept. 16
in San Francisco, CA, McCormick
&
Kuleto’s
Seafood
Restaurant will host a 21st
Amendment Brewery paired dinner with a five-course prix fixe menu
prepared by
Chef Chris Zekos. $65 pp. Call 415-929-1730 or visit www.mccormickandkuletos.com
. * On Sept. 18 in Denver, CO, Breckenridge Brewery is throwing a party, featuring Colorado craft beers paired with the best of Denver’s street food from GastroCart, Brava Pizza, Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs, The Cupcake Truck, Steuben’s, and Deluxe Burger. $65 pp. Call 303-775-5038.
*
On
Sept. 18th World Yacht hosts NYC's
First Annual Oktoberfest on the Hudson, transforming Pier 81 into a
Beer Garden. $10-15 pp. Visit www.worldyachtoktoberfest.eventbrite.com
or call 212-630-8100.
* On Sept. 21 in Chicago, IL, and Lincolnshire, IL, Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar hosts the Caymus Interactive Wine dinner, featuring a Napa-inspired menu with Caymus Vineyards owner and winemaker Chuck Wagner, Fleming's Dir. of Wine Marian Jansen op de Haar and Executive Chef Russell Skall. $125 pp. Call 312-329-9463.
*On Sept. 24 in New Orleans, LA, The Roosevelt New Orleans Hotel presents a re-creation of the famous “Stormin’ of the Sazerac,” when women first were admitted to the bar 61 years ago. Event is free and open to the public. Lunch in Sazerac Bar is available for $25 pp. Call (504) 648-5486.
* From Sept
24 to Oct 9 in Chicago,
Pierrot
Gourmet holds an Oktoberfest celebration with an extensive beer
menu, incl.
German beer flights and draft selections served in customary beer
steins; a
special theme menu served for lunch and dinner. For
more info. please call 312-573-6749.
* On Sept. 25, Hourglass Wine Company hosts the Sixth Annual BackStage Pass Event Auction to benefit St. Helena Public Schools at in Napa, CA. Guests will enjoy a Hog Island oyster bar, vineyard BBQ dinner from sponsors Dean & Deluca and Napa Valley wines provided by Blackbird, Bressler, Duckhorn, Cliff Lede, Crocker & Starr, Hourglass, Jones Family, Lail Vineyards, Melka Wines, Pine Ridge, et al. 750 Wines+. $150 pp, proceeds benefitting St. Helena Public Schools. www.justimagineauction.com.
*
On Sept
25 & 26, Bon Appetit
magazine will present the 3rd annual Chicago Gourmet. $150
pp for a One-Day Pass and $250 pp for a
Weekend Pass. Visit www.chicagogourmet.org
or
call
312-380-4128.
*
On
Sept.
25,
executive
chef
Scott
Crawford
will
present
a
fall
harvest
dinner
as
part
of
The
Umstead
Hotel and Spa’s signature event, “An Artful Evening” in Cary, NC. Complementary
wines. $239 per couple or $445
per couple incl. one-night stay. Call 866-877-4141; visit www.theumstead.com.
* From Sept.
25 – Oct. 10 in Lexington, KY,
Kentucky Horse Park Farmhouse will
host
"Cookin’
in
the Bluegrass: A Celebrity Chef
Dinner Series" in
conjunction with the James Beard Foundation, the Kentucky Horse Park
Foundation
and the Alltech FEI 2010 World Equestrian Games. Each of the 16 dinners
will
feature two celebrity chefs and
one Kentucky-based chef , incl. Dean
Corbett of Corbett’s: An American Place, Jonathan Lundy of Jonathan at
Gratz
Park, Francis Schmitz of Bristol Bar and Grille and Anthony Lamas of
Seviche.
$300 pp per dinner. Visit www.alltechfeigames.com.
*
From
Sept.
27
-
Oct.
2
in
NYC,
Wines of Puglia will host the first
ever Puglia Wine Week.
Participating restaurants incl. Convivio,
dell'anima, Felidia, Gusto, il Buco, I Truli, Il Matto,
La
Masseria, Lupa, Mia Dona, Quartino, SD26, and The Vanderbilt, offering
Apulian-inspired prix fixe menus with optional Apulian wine pairings.
Prices vary. Visit www.winesofpuglia.com
or call 646-277-7110. *
On
Sept.
28
in Brooklyn, NY,
Tony
DiDio
Selections will host the "2nd Annual TDS Fall Classic" at Frankies 457. A wine
tasting, with passed hors d’oeuvres , will begin at 6:30pm followed by
a Family
Style 4 course dinner with wine parings. $75 pp. Call 718-330-0963
or www.tdselections.com. `````````````````````````````````
NEW
FEATURE: I am happy to report that the Virtual Gourmet is linking up
with four excellent travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I
consider this the best
and savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a columnist
for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and
Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski
and a frequent contributor to National
Geographic
Traveler,
ForbesTraveler.com and Elle
Decor. "I’ve designed this
site is for people who take their travel seriously," says Potter.
"For travelers who want to learn about special places but don’t
necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of
staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about
five-star places as five-star experiences." THIS
WEEK: Summer in Maine, Cape Cod, New Jersey; Win a 3-Night Getaway to the San Juan
Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino.
![]() ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Eating Las Vegas is the new on-line site for Virtual Gourmet contributor John A. Curtas., who since 1995 has been commenting on the Las Vegas food scene and reviewing restaurants for Nevada Public Radio. He is also the restaurant critic for KLAS TV, Channel 8 in Las Vegas, and his past reviews can be accessed at KNPR.org. Click on the logo below to go directly to his site.
Tennis Resorts Online: A Critical Guide to the World's Best Tennis Resorts and Tennis Camps, published by ROGER COX, who has spent more than two decades writing about tennis travel, including a 17-year stretch for Tennis magazine. He has also written for Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel, New York Magazine, Travel & Leisure, Esquire, Money, USTA Magazine, Men's Journal, and The Robb Report. He has authored two books-The World's Best Tennis Vacations (Stephen Greene Press/Viking Penguin, 1990) and The Best Places to Stay in the Rockies (Houghton Mifflin, 1992 & 1994), and the Melbourne (Australia) chapter to the Wall Street Journal Business Guide to Cities of the Pacific Rim (Fodor's Travel Guides, 1991). ![]() Family Travel
Forum: The
Family
Travel
Forum
(FTF),
whose
motto
is
"Have
Kids,
Still
Travel!",
is
dedicated
to
the
ideals,
promotion
and
support
of
travel
with
children.
Founded
by
business
professionals
John
Manton
and
Kyle
McCarthy
with first class travel industry credentials and global family
travel experience, the independent, family-supported FTF will provide
its members with honest, unbiased information, informed advice and
practical tips; all designed to make traveling a rewarding, healthy,
safe, better value and hassle-free experience for adults and children
who journey together. Membership in FTF will lead you to new worlds of
adventure, fun and learning. Join the movement. All You Need to Know Before You Go ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ nickonwine: An engaging, interactive wine column by Nick Passmore, Artisanal Editor, Four Seasons Magazine; Wine Columnist, BusinessWeek.com; nick@nickonwine.com; www.nickonwine.com. ![]() MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Editor/Publisher: John Mariani.
Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Robert Mariani,
John A. Curtas, Edward Brivio, Mort
Hochstein, Suzanne Wright, and Brian Freedman. Contributing
Photographers:
Galina Stepanoff-Dargery, Bobby Pirillo. Technical
Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.
Any of John Mariani's books below
may be ordered from amazon.com by clicking on the cover image.
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