MARIANI’S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER
May 1, 2011
"May Day" by Kate Greenaway
by John Mariani
NEW ORLEANS BOUNCES BACK BIG TIME,
by John Mariani
that getting his diner named
and running was crucial to bringing the city back to life.
records, and no cash flow. My mother came to help out and a
sous-chef and his girlfriend came back. We went to a local grocery for
provisions and started selling a hamburger, potato chips, pickle, and a
for five bucks. We put tables outside, my mom insisted we put
the tables, and there were lines to get in. We served 128 people
first day, and we got media attention from all over—newspapers, CNN,
Japanese TV. By week’s end we were serving 500 people a day.”
Stanley was the first restaurant that managed to re-open in the
five years later, New Orleans actually has more restaurants than before
hurricane. The good times are rolling again and, on the basis of two
the city in the last six months, I can attest that restaurants are
night, from old timers like Brennan’s and Galatoire’s to newcomers like
Dominique’s and Domenica.
Jackson Square, where in
addition to those redemptive burgers, he serves terrific gumbos, eggs
and po’ boy sandwiches. At the same time, after eight months of
renovation, he re-opened his fine dining restaurant Stella! (both
are named after characters in Tennessee Williams’ play “Streetcar Named
which is emblematic of just how vibrant and forward thinking the
food scene has become.
For while most of the city’s restaurants
are still devoted
to beloved but entrenched Creole culinary tradition, Stella! (below) has moved into
modern haute cuisine, but without the haughtiness.
Boswell calls his food “global,” based on his
at international restaurants in France, Italy, and Japan, all filtered
a generous New Orleans sensibility. And by New Orleans standards,
not cheap, with entrees ranging from $31-$43, and a separate
caviar menu” that offers two ounces of paddlefish roe for $100 and
of “Royal Osetra” for $300.
Stella’s décor, once quaintly casual, is now
among the most
elegant in New Orleans. You enter through a cobblestone courtyard into
room with beamed ceilings, gold and silver wallpaper, big,
tufted upholstered chairs, crystal chandeliers, and an antique, marble
table set with a magnificent display of flowers. The place is as
romantic as any restaurant in the city, with plenty of guys popping the
question over dessert, and both locals and tourists tend to dress up
Boswell’s conceptions are complex yet beautifully
and the many components both buoy and complement the main ingredients,
in a dish like his roasted potato and parmesan gnocchi with fennel
grilled corn, maitake mushrooms, duck prosciutto, broccoli florets,
and lemon zest ($18), which at first seems a betrayal of the simplicity
Italian pastas but emerges as a canny marriage of smoky, tangy and
flavors with crisp textures.
Fat Louisiana Gulf shrimp are melded with risotto
hot andouille sausage, caramelized shiitake mushrooms, peas and
($16), a wonderfully tasty dish despite the risotto being overcooked
one night. An entrée called “duck five ways” ($37) is a tour de
of a duck breast dusted with Sichuan pepper, a lacquered leg and thigh,
mu-shu stir fry in a Chinese pancake, a duck miso broth, and crispy
gras wontons with a currant cassis reduction (below). The dish ups the ante
traditional Peking duck by multiplying the variations.
Boswell, along with Chef de Cuisine Carlos Briceno,
use as many local ingredients and techniques as possible, as in their
meaty breast of Palmetto squab, served with Southern-style braised
greens, skillet cornbread, oyster dressing and a Madeira jus ($36).
Two of the best desserts I’ve had all year are at Stella! An
old-fashioned German chocolate cake is brought happily into the 21st
century, rich with toasted coconut and pecan ganache and lavished with
sauce and a milk chocolate mousse made with freezing liquid nitrogen in
seconds. The other
dessert is a masterpiece of sheer decadence—quite
literally a grilled cheese sandwich made with a triple crème
Délice de Bourgogne
and a dark chocolate ganache within brioche bread fried in clarified
lashed with wild huckleberry sauce.
The 500-label wine list, overseen by
Mitchell, is exceptionally well balanced with New and Old World
rare vintages, though I’d like to see more bottles under $50.
It is a winning formula for a chef to be able to
burgers and po’ boys while also serving up some of the most
cuisine, especially in a city where food is a religion, with the same
restorative effects on the body and soul.
Main courses $31-$43.
417 Royal Street
Brennan's held for the speakers and actors who appear
throughout the week. This year the stellar guests included actresses
Caroll Baker, Shirley Jackson, and journalist Rex Reed, each
regaling the rest of us with reminiscences of the great American
playwright, a Mississippian who made New Orleans his adopted home and
the setting for so many of his plays. It was a grand and long evening
much laughter and high spirits and the food was nothing short of
Like Galatoire's (profiled here two weeks ago),
Brennan's, here since 1946, is one of the French Quarter's
historic restaurants and year
by year gets better and better. The greeting has all the warmth
of the South to it, and family scion Ted Brennan seems to know
everyone or soon gets to know the new faces as they come through the
famously for "Breakfast at Brennan's," which for $36 gives you an
extensive three-course Creole breakfast that ends of with bananas
flaming dessert of bananas, rum, caramel, and vanilla ice cream,
created here. The wine cellar, built over decades by the late
Jimmy Brennan, was destroyed by Hurricane Katrina but has been built up
again over the last five years to be again one of the finest in the
Chef Lazone Randolph (left),
at Brennan's in
and became Exec Chef in 2005. The crawfish, like spring flowers,
were just starting to come in that week, not yet as fat as they
would be by now,
but still meaty and succulent.
It is one of the hallmarks of Brennan's, carried on
proudly by Randolph and his crew, to guarantee that the dishes you
loved five years ago will be every bit as memorable today, altered only
by the use of the best ingredients available. I find it very difficult
not to order my old favorites but there are so many other dishes that
pull me in, so let me just speak of some of those I've had in recent
over the past year.
if you like. The trout almandine is smothered in buttery almond
and lemon sauce, the trout pecan the same with pecans--two
sensationally good dishes. Filet of redfish topped with lump crabmeat
in a fresh mushroom and red wine sauce is another winner, and, since it
was buster crab season when I was there, I was bound to gobble up the
terrific soft shells in butter with a lavish Béarnaise sauce. If
in the mood for meat, Brennan's tournedos Taylor, with Béarnaise
and marchand de vins sauces,
is a stand-out of flavorful filets. I am
also a lover of that good old New Orleans dish grillades and grits, a
big platter of sautéed strips of veal with buttered grits, a
downhome dish here ennobled just a little bit without getting too fancy.
It would be hard for a first-timer, or an old-timer,
not to have the famous bananas Foster (right),
the crêpe desserts here, the decadent bread pudding Joan
or the Creole chocolate suicide cake. The cheesecake is pretty
dreamy, too. And all of it served up with a Louisiana bonhomie by a
dining room staff for whom no request is to large.
Brennan's guests like to linger. You don't go
here for a quick bite, especially at breakfast, which always involves
some Champagne, and at night there seems little reason to want to go
anywhere else after a meal so splendid, so joyous, and so
celebratory--especially when great actors aand raconteurs regale guests
with stories of their friend Tennessee.
is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. A four-course dinner is
set at $48, with à la carte available.
300 Gravier Street
After a few switcharounds of management, the now
locally owned Windsor Court
Hotel is on a firm footing and more popular than ever from what I could
see from my table in the splendid and handsome Grill Room, where Chef Drew
to the highest tiers of New Orleans cookery. The
winelist at the Grill
Room, with 600 labels overseen by Sara Kavanaugh, continues to be one
of the best selected in its range and breadth.
The dining room is one of the loveliest in the city,
with murals of Louisiana life by local artists Auseklis
here, accompanied by a musical trio and singer of the
Great American Songbook. The Polo Club Lounge is easily the most
sophisticated watering hole in town.
On my recent visit I dined alone, something
I occasionally crave after too much carousing. I brought a
book with me but it went
unread. I sipped an impeccably made daiquiri, maybe two while
to the beautiful girl singing "Do You Know What It Means to Miss New
I began with the season's new warm white
asparagus salad with watercress,
hedgehog mushrooms, and a light truffled mignonette. I also
lagniappe of Gulf yellow fin tuna poke
(Hawaiian style) with a yuzu gastrique
and crispy moo shoo.
prepared the way for a superb wild striped bass with crispy skin in a
lobster-Marsala wine reduction, with spinach, leeks, and
mousse with vanilla ice
For a break from the hubbub outside on the streets
this always celebratory city, The Grill Room is an oasis of genteel
Southern taste and charm.
The Grill Room is open for
breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. At
dinner, appetizers run $10-$19, main courses $29-$37.
209 East 56th Street (near
few years back there was a breed of Italian restaurateurs whose pride
in their Old Country's food initiated a considerable number of
restaurants that might be called "New York Italian," which drew on the
best elements of Italian-American cooking in its rich tomato sauces,
veal chops, and lusty pasta dishes along with new refinements based on
the availability of the finest products then just begining to
arrive from Italy--virgin olive oil,
cheeses, prosciutto di Parma, balsamic vinegar, even expensive white
They stocked their restaurants with the best wines from Tuscany,
Campania, and Piedmont, and their décor mimicked the refinement
of ristoranti in Milan,
Rome and Florence.
They also brought a new sense of Italian hospitality
to NYC, a far cry from the older, entrenched Little Italy stereotype of
hosts who hold up
their fingers and ask, "So, how many you gonna be?" Among these
sophisticated, uptown restaurateurs were men like Adi Giovanetti of Il
Nido, Tony May of San Domenico (now SD26), Pino Luongo of Centolire,
the Bruno Brothers of San Pietro and Sistina, and others too
numerous to mention here. One of the most respected, both for his
food and his attention to clientele, was Lello
Mia Dona, and Anthos.
Neapolitan by birth, Lello arrived in the U.S. when
he was eighteen and within a decade opened his own restaurant.
With enormous pride he jokes that his two greatest "failures" are
that his son and daughter wanted to go into the business. For reasons
that seem clear as soon as you meet
these restaurateurs, nothing can drive them into retirement because
they clearly love what they do and cannot think of any other way to
spend their lives than to serve their guests, many of whom go back
decades at their restaurants. Lello, now with his son Dino (right) mostly at Fiorini,
And so Lello was there to greet us last week,
as was Donatella, whose new downtown pizzeria I promised to visit next
week. The dining room is simply lovely, perfectly lighted, with
rich varnished wood, comfortable chairs, and, of course, white
tablecloths and good stemware. To the rear is a glassed-in wine
storage space. As soon as we sat down the waiter brought warm, puffy
focaccia and Italian bread with ample butter. They unfolded
for us and told us the evening's specials. Lello offered to choose our wines and told us that his cuisine has never
changed, meaning not that it
is dated but that is is timeless--classic Italian specialties done with
a New York panache throughout.
After nibbling on some fried calamari and tender
grilled octopus with capers and arugula, sipping our negronis, we
readied ourselves for the pasta course--each dish made with verve and
care to bring out the pasta itself, not to smother it. I find it
impossible to turn down gnocchi, especially when treated to a light
Gorgonzola dolce cream sauce,
and Chef Xavier Quispilema's is superb. I
feel equally as ravenous about spaghetti alla carbonara when
made right, with guanciale and egg, and Fiorini does so with great
flavor, again lighter than some overwrought examples I've had around
town. Freshly made pappardelle
comes with lump crabmeat, peas,
garlic, olive oil, and cherry tomatoes is a lush lobster broth.
Much as I love it, I usually avoid swordfish because
the raw product must be of intense freshness and so often is not. At
Fiorini the fish served was glorious, briny and delicious,
quickly, with olives, onions, capers
desired, with the delightful addition of caramelized onions (above), while pollo belvedere is a
grilled chicken paillard with arugula on top, balsamic tomato,
avocado, pine nuts, and sliced pecorino cheese, every ingredient in
perfect tandem, every texture sure.
The desserts are not meant to be fantasies, just
sheer pleasure, as with the three chocolate-and-passion fruit zuccotto
and a creamy cheese cake with a strawberry puree. Best of all
was a golden, moist, exceeding light baba
with powdered sugar and an accompanying glass of vin santo (right).
Fiorini's wine list is not among the deepest in New
York restaurants, but there will be plenty, at all price ranges,
for you to enjoy with your meal.
At a time when much newer Italian
restaurants are anything but
civilized places to dine, with bombastic music, cheap furniture, and
waiters who couldn't tell their Asti from their Elba, Fiorini is
clear testament to the best that New York Italian style has to offer.
MAN ABOUT TOWN
Mariani send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org
2401 Saint Ann Street
Recently, a group of close friends heading down
to New Orleans called upon me for some advice as to where to eat. One
asked, “Where can we grab some good bbq?” I gave him a puzzled look and
responded, “Why the hell would you go to New Orleans for bbq?” Not to
the city doesn’t have good ‘que, but that’s definitely not what a
should go to New Orleans for. I proceeded to offer them a list of
favorites, including restaurants and eateries where they can taste some
city’s best crawfish, soft shell crab, gumbo, turtle soup, fried
red beans, oysters served every way possible, Louisiana Creole
boy sandwiches and, of course, for dessert, beignets, pecan pie and
bananas Foster. One place in particular came to mind, Willie Mae’s
Scotch House, my introduction to city’s soul flavors.
Mae’s, located just outside of the Quarter in the 6th Ward devastated
by Hurricane Katrina, is not
exactly in the best of areas,
but don’t let the run-down neighborhood dissuade you from walking in.
hanging white sign that reads, “Willie Mae’s Restaurant” and a standing
chalkboard menu that lists daily specials, you probably wouldn’t know
a restaurant inside. Once within, you'll find there’s an extremely
filled with small wooden tables topped by bottles of Louisiana Hot
drop does it,” Tabasco sauce, ketchup, salt and pepper shakers and a
cannister. The walls are blanketed with newspaper reviews, murals of
bands and a piece of artwork that reads, “Be Nice or Leave!” surrounded
colorful frame decorated with beer caps.
was opened by Miss Willie Mae out of
her own home, a true Fat City chicken shack, declared an "American
Classic" by the James Beard Association. Put out of business by
Katrina, the restaurant was re-opened through a coming together of
volunteers and other restaurateurs who knew enough not to let such a
link to the city's heritage, not to mention
nonpareil fried chicken, go under for good. Today Willie Mae's
great-granddaughter now runs things and she''ll shoo anyone out of the
kitchen who wants to take a photo of what's going on back there.
fried pork chop, a big bowl of traditional Louisiana red
beans and a
mound of white rice (left) and
two orders of buttery, golden brown corn bread. The
food was rich, well-salted and left a trace of grease on our lips when
finished. Not all food of the city’s fare is as heavy as found at
but as a whole, the food is hearty and filling. There’s not much in
service besides waitresses who rush your order and may be difficult
down when your Abita runs out, but the food is on point. I doubt the
menu has changed in years, if ever, but why should it, since everything
damn good. So, if you are a virgin tourist to the city of New Orleans,
barbeque for the next time you visit Texas or the Carolinas and stop by
Willie Mae’s for
authentic “South of the south” New Orleans cooking.
UND PERHAPS LIDDLE
DER FÜHRER UND EVA BRAUN ON TOP, JAH?
later apologizing for
causing offense, saying he was only
making what a
AND A STIFF UPPER LIP!
'Celebrate Big Willy Style.' The makers sent
bottles to Prince William for the wedding night. Forty bottles at
£10 each will be produced initially, and went go on sale at
BrewDog.com, with all
the proceeds going to the charity Centrepoint. James
Watt, co-founder of BrewDog, said: "As the bottle says, this is about
consummation, not commemoration."
Check out our Quick Bytes section!
Great deals, events, dinners, and much more!
Beginning May 2 in New York, NY,
Blue Caravan will feature live world music (flamenco, Brazilian,
African, and beyond) to accompany their extensive global menu (small
and large plates). This will continue every Monday afterwards,
10PM. No music charge. Call 212-595-4300 or www.bluecaravan.com.
On May 3, Four Seasons Hotel
San Francisco continues Seasons Swirl. A Premier Wine Tasting
monthly wine and food tasting at Seasons Bar and Lounge. This month's
event will feature wines by Darioush and hors d'oeuvres created by
Executive Chef Mark Richardson. The event will be held on from 5:30
p.m.7:30 p.m. and is $45 for wine flights and suggested pairings. Call
415-633-3000 or visit www.fourseasons.com/sanfrancisco
From May 4th through May 28th, Sullivan’s Steakhouse in Houston, TX,
will host a series of music talents on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and
Saturday nights in the Ringside Lounge (inside Sullivan’s). Music acts
will include Grupo Kache, Radio London and many more. Call
713-961-0333 or visit www.sullivansteakhouse.com
On May 4-6, May 11-13, May 18-20,
Bill Telepan brings a slightly unbuttoned version of Telepan downtown
during a four-week-long cooking stint at Pecan on Franklin
Each week at Telepan TriBeCa,
and a selection of beer are also
offered. No reservations accepted. Telepan TriBeCa (at
Franklin Street, New York.
On May 5, MexiQ Kitchen &
Draught in Astoria, NY
will host a loca fiesta for Cinco de Mayo with a live mariachi band,
piñatas and $10 margarita specials. Tequila will be poured
perfect 32 degrees from their temperature-controlled dispenser while
Executive Chef Jonathan VanSleet prepares juicy Beef Short Rib
Empanadas ($8) and luscious Fish Enchiladas with black bean salsa
($10). 718-626-0333 or www.mexiqny.com
On May 5, NYIT will present
Professional Excellence Awards to elite leaders in the culinary and
oenology community at the Gold Coast Classic in New York, NY.
The event will support student scholarships. The honorees - Barbara
Lynch, chef and CEO of Barbara Lynch Gruppo, and Michael Martini,
master winemaker of Louis M. Martini Winery - will be celebrated at the
gala. The evening will feature a cocktail reception, silent and live
auctions, and a three-course dinner. $500 pp. Call 516-686-7644 or
On May 5, Virgil’s Real
Barbecue in New York, NY
will offer a special Mexican-inspired feast in honor of Cinco de
The meal starts off with a Muy Caliente Margarita ($11) with habanero
pepper-infused tequila, then cools down with fresh Guacamole, Chips and
Salsa ($9.95). A panko-crusted and stuffed Shrimp Relleno
an Enchiladas de Pollo ($15.95) with homemade corn tortillas are washed
down with a “Bucket of Mexico” - a combination of six Mexican beers
($30). 212-921-9494 or www.virgilsbbq.com
On Friday, May 6, Four Seasons
Resort Maui joins with Opus One Winery to offer guests an exceptional
viticulture evening, featuring the creative cuisine of Four Seasons
Master Executive Chef Roger Stettler and the wines of Opus One's
Winemaker Michael Silacci. It all takes place under the stars on Four
Seasons Resort Maui's Oceanfront Lawn. Visit www.maui.fourseasons.com
$350 per person. Reservations at 808-874-2201 or
On May 6 in Palm Springs, CA,
La Quinta Resort & Club’s signature restaurant Morgan’s in the
desert will host the Chappellet Winery Dinner – a winery perched 1,200
feet above the Napa Valley floor with a winemaking program focused on
extraordinary age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon. Price is $95pp Call
760-564-7600 or visit www.morgansinthedesert.com.
On May 7, in Las Vegas, Vegas Uncork’d by Bon
Appétit will present Toques Off to Paul Bocuse at MGM Grand.
This lavish dinner honoring the icon of modern French gastronomy will
feature fine wines paired with course preparations by Alain Ducasse,
Joël Robuchon, Roland Passot, Michael Mina, Hubert Keller, Shawn
McClain, Jacques Torres, André Renard and others. Beneficiaries
of the evening include Keep Memory Alive, which benefits the Cleveland
Clinic Lou Ruvo Center for Brain Health founded by Southern Wine &
Spirits’ Larry Ruvo, and the Wirtz Beverage Group’s culinary
scholarships and programs at the College of Southern Nevada. $395 per
person. Call 877-884-8993 or purchase online at www.VegasUncorked.com.
On May 10 in New York, NY,
at Riverpark Tom Colicchio will host the 15th Annual Toast to the
Children food and wine tasting event to benefit Children of Bellevue.
This tasting will feature 13 of NYC's best restaurants and 13 wineries
chosen by Paul Greico. Gail Simmons is the gala's 2011 honoree. Tickets
start at $250. For more information, visit www.childrenofbellevue.org
On May 12, Gibsons Bar &
Steakhouse in Rosemont, IL, will host a Trinchero Napa Valley Wine
Dinner. Trinchero's Mario Monticelli will lead guests through a
selection of wine paired with five-course prepared by Executive Chef
Marco DiBenedetto. $85pp. Call 847-928-9900 or visit www.gibsonssteakhouse.com
On May 14 in Portland, OR,
the Portland Indie Wine & Food Festival will bring together 37
festival alumni and 14 newly selected Oregon winemakers to pour
alongside 14 of Portland’s top chefs and artisan producers. GA $75 pp,
VIP $125 pp. Visit www.indiewinefestival.com
or call 503-595-0891
On May 18, Chef David Myers’
Comme Ca in West Hollywood, CA,
Voltaggio, Roy Choi, Jordan Kahn, Jon Shook &
Vinny Dotolo will join Myers to cook a multi-course tasting menu.
$110pp. Call 323-782-1104 or visit www.commecarestaurant.com.
Any of John Mariani's books below
may be ordered from amazon.com.
My new book, How Italian Food Conquered the World
(Palgrave Macmillan) is a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world.
From ancient Rome to la dolce vita
of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs,
from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
" A fact-filled,
entertaining history [that] substantiates its title with hundreds of
facts in this meaty history of the rise of Italian food culture around
globe. From Charles Dickens's journey through Italy in 1844 to
immigrants to America selling ice cream on the streets of New Orleans,
constantly surprises the reader with little-known culinary anecdotes
Italy and its people, who have made pasta and pizza household dishes in
U.S. and beyond."--Publishers Weekly
(let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve
and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.
fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in
America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a
terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Espositio, hosty of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.
pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of
NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe, Gotham Bar & Grill, The Modern,
LINKS: I am happy to report that the Virtual Gourmet is linked to
four excellent travel sites:
consider this the best
and savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a columnist
for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and
Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski
and a frequent contributor to National
ForbesTraveler.com and Elle
Decor. "I’ve designed this
site is for people who take their travel seriously," says Potter.
"For travelers who want to learn about special places but don’t
necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of
staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about
five-star places as five-star experiences." THIS
WEEK: ALASKA; LETTER
Vegas is the new on-line site for Virtual Gourmet
A. Curtas., who since 1995 has been commenting on the Las Vegas food
scene and reviewing restaurants for Nevada Public Radio. He is
the restaurant critic for KLAS TV, Channel 8 in Las Vegas, and his past
reviews can be accessed at KNPR.org.
Tennis Resorts Online:
A Critical Guide to the World's
Best Tennis Resorts and Tennis Camps,
published by ROGER COX, who has spent more than two decades writing
about tennis travel, including a 17-year stretch for Tennis magazine. He has also
written for Arthur Frommer's Budget
Travel, New York Magazine,
Travel & Leisure, Esquire, Money, USTA Magazine, Men's Journal, and The Robb Report. He has
authored two books-The World's
Best Tennis Vacations (Stephen Greene Press/Viking Penguin,
1990) and The Best Places to Stay in the Rockies (Houghton
Mifflin, 1992 & 1994), and the Melbourne (Australia) chapter to the
Wall Street Journal Business
Guide to Cities of the
Pacific Rim (Fodor's Travel Guides, 1991).
The Family Travel Forum
- A community for those who
"Have Kids, Still Travel" and want to make family vacations more fun,
less work and better value. FTF's travel and parenting features,
reviews of tropical and ski resorts, reunion destinations, attractions,
weekends, family festivals, cruises, and all kinds of vacation ideas
the first port of call for family vacation planners. http://www.familytravelforum.com/index.html
ALL YOU NEED BEFORE YOU GO
An engaging, interactive wine
column by Nick Passmore, Artisanal Editor, Four Seasons Magazine; Wine
Columnist, BusinessWeek.com; email@example.com; www.nickonwine.com.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Editor/Publisher: John Mariani.
Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Robert Mariani,
John A. Curtas, Edward Brivio, Mort
Hochstein, Suzanne Wright, and
Brian Freedman. Contributing
Photographers: Galina Stepanoff-Dargery, Bobby Pirillo. Technical
© copyright John Mariani 2011