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"KATRINA'S CHOICE" (2013) BY GALINA DARGERY HAPPY VALENTINE'S DAY! ♡♡♡ ❖❖❖ THIS WEEK LAS VENTANAS AL PARAISO By Andrew Chalk In Defense of LaGuardia Airport By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER Le Cirque Cafe By Marcy MacDonald NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER San Antonio's Best Cocktails Right Now By Andrew Chalk
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The Very
Well-Named
In Los Cabos,
an area known for a slew of luxury resorts,
including Capella
Pedregal, Esperanza,
and One
& Only Palmilla, it is an ambitious
goal for
Las
Ventanas Al Paraiso, a Rosewood property, to
strive to be the top luxury resort on Mexico's
Baja California Peninsula.
It
should also be mentioned that the resort makes
departure less stressful than at other resorts.
Mexican government-approved resort personnel called
Airport Ambassadors escort Las Ventanas guests through
airport security and into a private VIP lounge with
wi-fi, dining and beverages.
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Vice President Joe Biden’s recent
characterization of LaGuardia Airport as being akin
to one in a Third World country is neither idle nor
flippant. Indeed,
many would argue that airports in some Third World
countries are even more modern than LGA. But to
me, that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
And
then there is the uniquely beautiful, very
old-fashioned Marine Air Terminal (above), opened in
1940 as a landing base for the great flying boats like
the two-decker Pan Am Clipper (left), its first
departure on March 31, 1940, carrying just nine
passengers. The
outbreak of war and the demise of the flying boats
meant the closure of the Marine Air Terminal in 1950,
though it was re-opened in 1985 for the Boston and DC
shuttle and other flights. There was, for a while, a water
taxi linking the airport to Wall Street.
Looking at that mural in that fine building, I
am reminded of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s sentiments at the
end of his novel The Great Gatsby,
when man felt “compelled
into an aesthetic contemplation he neither understood
nor desired, face to face for the last time in history
with something commensurate to his capacity for
wonder.” LaGuardia Airport
may not be the most modern airline terminal in the
world, but for those who remember a time when flying
was a wonder, not sheer agony, there’s still something
of the old spirit there.
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NEW YORK CORNER Le Cirque Café
Not exactly the kind of thing one says about
one of the most elegant of New York's great
restaurants, but since the opening of its new
performance space, Le Cirque Café, it's become
the coolest new hotspot in town. Its enormous portholes suggest the kind of Old World ocean liner crossings that made the long-defunct White Star Line come alive. Sculptural umbrellas of all sizes hang upside down from the high ceiling. And when young crooner, Cole Rumbough, sang “Pennies from Heaven,” gourmands at almost every table looked up. Just 23, Rumbough comes to this exclusive world naturally: his grandmother, actress Dina Merrill, was brought up in the 1950s, and now her grandson has a repertory of 500 songs from the period. He is finishing his last year of music study at The New School and uses his accomplished classmates as his small back-up orchestra. Le Cirque’s owner, the Maccioni family (Mario, Mauro and Marco, left) and wait staff are so professional that only they knew what was coming--three hours of music from pre-appetizer to post-dessert that recalled the days of luxury living of a bygone age As soon as we were seated, our waiter served warm rolls warm and took our drinks and wine order. The gin-and-tonic was perfectly tart, the Puligny-Montrachet Bernard Bonin Les Folatières 2009 and a bubbly Laurent Perrier, Cuvée Rosé Brut, were served as cold as frigid air outside.
Le Cirque is famous for so many dishes that we
mixed our tastes with old and new entries. The
Caesar Salad "Le Cirque" never disappoints as it
perfectly replicates the intentions of the original to
which the kitchen adds strips of chicken that enrich
but don't dominate the rest. The
Fall Garden Greens of radicchio, endive, sesame with a
raspberry vinaigrette, was perfectly dressed,
delightfully crunchy.
A simple shrimp cocktail is anything but
here—six-inch jumbos with a cocktail sauce with the
extra snap of Tabasco. "Tempura-Style" fried calamari was
new to us, the batter light and crunchy, and Burgundy
truffle risotto made with Vialone Nano rice with
shaved truffles, was impeccably executed.
I could have survived on the breadbasket alone,
but there were several main courses to consider, and
different wines to imbibe. The grilled petit steak
might have been just another strip steak, but, ordered
black-and-blue, it was crisp on the outside and almost
still mooing on the inside. Served with wild
mushrooms, the jus
was perfect for dipping the pommes frites. We ordered
Peter Michael Les Pavots Cabernet Sauvignon 2009,
which rounded off the dish perfectly.
Scottish salmon was served medium-well, exactly
as requested, soft without being rubbery.
Accompanied by acorn squash, watercress, orange,
and tiny rutabaga made it even more decorative and
tasty,accompanied by a crisp Philippe Colin
Chevalier-Montrachet 2007.
And who could resist the Mini Cheeseburgers "Le
Cirque" (right),
with like
three kinds of mustard, paired with a nice Rocca di
Frassinello Baffonero Merlot? Either you love duck, as in duck
confit, or you don't.
Too often the
abundance of duck fat congeals into grease in a
confit, but here it was wholly rendered and enhanced
with the flavors of the rye berries and apple. For
this we chose a dry rosé, Nationale 7 Domaine
Rimauresq 2012,. A surprise dish, croque
monsieur—French grilled cheese--transported us back to
school days in Paris, but now eaten with knife and
fork and cloth napkins.
Coffee? Only if you want to stay awake; the
decaf (with a shot of Drambuie) if you don't have far
to go. That and Cole Rumbough's songbook warmed
this freezing night from the inside out.
Cole Rumbough (left)
performs once monthly on Wednesdays.
San Antonio, which you might be
surprised to find is the nation’s seventh largest
city, has become something of a factory for
cocktail innovation since the advent of the San
Antonio Cocktail Conference two years ago. Having just
returned from the third annual conference, I can
report that it is bigger, better and ever more
national in attendance.
James
Stewart, Marlene Dietrich and Brian Donlevy in
"Destry Rides Again" (1939)
Ocho--This bar in the Hotel Havana on the River Walk may be Cuban-themed, but manager Sandra Puente describes it as very much pan-Latin.The airy street-level bar is paired with a dark and mysterious basement counterpart. Upstairs (right) the glass and steel conservatory looks rather like a birdcage, with the river just outside. Among the spirit selections behind the bar are Republic tequila and Tito’s vodka, both made in Austin. The most popular cocktail is the mojito but they also do specialties like the “Trace of sin,” a Buffalo Trace bourbon-based drink with lime juice, simple, cinnamon simple syrup and grapefruit juice. Bartender Hector also demonstrated the ‘Hemingway Daiquiri’, classic built around white rum.
½ oz Luxardo Maraschino liqueur ½ oz lime juice ½ oz simple syrup ¾ oz grapefruit juice
The Brooklynite–-This San Antonio bar has the look and feel of the classic speakeasy: there is the windowless room, over-the-top period chandeliers, everything except secret passwords for access. Situated halfway between downtown and Pearl (a new and up-and-coming entertainment and residential complex in the old Pearl brewery), The Brooklynite gives the lie to those who claim the two entertainment centers of San Antonio are too far apart to walk from one to the other. Just stop for libations here on the way. Owner Jeret Peña is a veteran of the San Antonio bar scene having worked, among other gigs, at the oldest bar on the River Walk, The Esquire Tavern. The theme here is constant innovation and and an autarchic approach to ingredients. They make their own cordials, ginger beer, tinctures, bitters and vinegars. Maple vinegar, cranberry vinegar, and others are everyday components here. Peña is a big fan of using vinegars instead of citrus to add depth in the acid component of a drink, with new cocktails coming out weekly. The most popular are rewarded with a place on the regular menu. Rather than turn over part of the small building to a kitchen, The Brooklynite supplies food through an ever-rotating selection of food trucks that park right outside the front door. Not surprisingly, the place gets packed at weekends “85 percent locals”, says Peña. It is good to know that they take reservations if you want to be sure your party can get a particular table. Peña demonstrated the ‘Gibraltar’ to me, a cocktail he devised based on a Champs Elysées.
1 ½ oz Calvados 3/4 oz pear liqueur ½ oz fresh lemon 1/4 oz simple syrup Mezcal in a spray container.
BAR 1919
–Named in memory of
the year that saw the ratification of the 18th
Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, instituting
Prohibition, 1919
is located in the Blue Star arts and entertainment
complex on the river walk a mile south of town. The
bar itself is easy to miss, being at basement level on
one end of an undistinguished mixed use strip. Inside,
the atmosphere is in the “not see and not be-seen”
genre of design; the lights are low, the windows
covered over’ all light projects out from the bar. Owner Don Marsh is a 24-year veteran of the San Antonio cocktail scene, having worked at numerous bars, including Bohanan’s, and self-taught at each stage. The specialty at 1919 is dark liquor, that is, whisky. Marsh claims to have the largest selection in the city. Yet he is also a fan of tequila and mezcal and shows a large selection of each. To illustrate where he is less of a fan, he offers up that he only has two vodkas. He is also a fan of beers and has over 100. A back room functions as an event space for seminars by distillers and brewers to avid fans of the drinks. 1919 runs an unusual loyalty program. Customers with coins minted for the bar can obtain discounts on a different drink each week.
For a taste of 1919,
Marsh made me a True Azul and served it in a vintage
glass (left),
from 1944 in fact.
1 1/2 oz infused tequila (1919 uses a reposado infused with poblano, serrano and red bell peppers), 1/4 oz crème de violet 1/2 oz honey syrup 1/2 oz fresh lime juice Smoked sea
salt
Bohanan’s—A candidate
for ground zero in the San Antonio cocktail
scene, this
steakhouse owned by Mark Bohanan is regarded
as one of the best in Texas. The bar was opened in
2008 in the downstairs space of the same building. In
2011 he did a serious makeover, bringing in Sasha
Petraske of New York and London’s Milk and Honey to remake the cocktail list to give it
an edge. Extensive staff training and the purchase of
a specialized ice-making machine were part of the
upgrade, as were quarterly return visits by Petraske
to check on progress. The cocktails here take on a
number of genres but they have in common a certain
refined swagger in their composition.
Bartender
Alex Smith showed me how they make an Old Fashioned at
Bohanan’s. This is a cocktail built in the glass.
3-4 dashes Angostura bitters 1 spoonful club soda 2 oz Buffalo Trace bourbon Ice to chill 3-4 inches of orange zest
Place the sugar cube in an Old Fashioned glass and sprinkle Angostura bitters on top. Add club soda. Muddle to a paste so that the sugar cube is fully broken up. Add
bourbon and ice cubes. Garnish with orange zest.
Wine Column Sponsored by Banfi Vintners
by
Cristina Mariani-May,
Charming day, Valentine’s
is. Who
can argue with romance, candlelight, treats and
seduction? My
only argument is why we relegate this celebration to
just once a year.
Love is never redundant, after all, nor should
be the ways we express it. Much like the range of wines
available and the myriad of occasions in which to
enjoy them.
One of my personal favorite wines can best be
described as pure romance in a bottle. Rosa Regale,
a sparkling red from Italy, is the poster child for a
Valentine’s Day wine.
Sparkling, heart-colored red, festive,
relatively low in alcohol, fruity, Rosa Regale goes
great with savories such as ham and quiches, and is a
sensual pairing with chocolate, especially dark
chocolate as well as raspberries and strawberries. There’s
even a legend that Julius Caesar, when competing with
Mark Anthony for Cleopatra’s affections, sent the
Egyptian monarch a shipment of Brachetto, the
exclusive grape in Rosa Regale. For those
same reasons and more, it is also a great wine
for Thanksgiving, Christmas, Hanukkah and new year;
Mother’s Day, Easter, graduation, summer pool parties,
and, as a matter of fact, every day. And in my
book, none of those days are short on love. But
with that said, let’s look into other wines that are
suitably romantic, for February 14 or any day either
side of the calendar.
Another appropriate Valentine wine is Principessa
Gavia Gavi, a crisp, dry, elegant and
flavorful white wine made from Cortese grapes and
backed by a romantic tale.
If red calls to your heart, though, try L’Ardí,
a Dolcetto d’Acqui redolent of berry fruit flavor and
as easy to drink as your lover is to look at. In the
local Piedmontese dialect, “L’Ardí” (pronounced
Lar-DEE) means “bright, bold and brave,” specifically
referring to a fun and adventurous young man. And what
could be more romantic than that?
Rosa Regale - Aromatic with a hint of rose petals
and raspberries, a unique sparkling ruby-red wine –
great with savories and especially well suited to
desserts, particularly chocolate. It is also
delightful as an aperitif.
Principessa Gavia Gavi – Piedmont’s premier dry white wine
with an intriguing
crispness which exalts the fruitiness of this
historic and noble wine. L’Ardí
Dolcetto d’Acqui – A lively and quaffable red wine made
from Dolcetto grapes from Piedmont. Ruby colored and
redolent of fresh grapes and ripe cherries, with a dry
finish.
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THE
LEGEND OF SAMURAI SUSHI
ODDEST OPENING LINES
OF A RESTAURANT
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
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FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences." THIS WEEK: HOW TO
INTRODUCE YOUR CHILD TO SAN FRANCISCO
Eating Las Vegas is the new on-line site for Virtual Gourmet contributor John A. Curtas., who since 1995 has been commenting on the Las Vegas food scene and reviewing restaurants for Nevada Public Radio. He is also the restaurant critic for KLAS TV, Channel 8 in Las Vegas, and his past reviews can be accessed at KNPR.org. Click on the logo below to go directly to his site.
Tennis Resorts Online: A Critical Guide to the World's Best Tennis Resorts and Tennis Camps, published by ROGER COX, who has spent more than two decades writing about tennis travel, including a 17-year stretch for Tennis magazine. He has also written for Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel, New York Magazine, Travel & Leisure, Esquire, Money, USTA Magazine, Men's Journal, and The Robb Report. He has authored two books-The World's Best Tennis Vacations (Stephen Greene Press/Viking Penguin, 1990) and The Best Places to Stay in the Rockies (Houghton Mifflin, 1992 & 1994), and the Melbourne (Australia) chapter to the Wall Street Journal Business Guide to Cities of the Pacific Rim (Fodor's Travel Guides, 1991).
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Editor/Publisher: John
Mariani.
Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani, Robert Mariani,
John A. Curtas, Edward Brivio, Mort Hochstein,
Suzanne Wright, and Brian Freedman. Contributing
Photographers: Galina Stepanoff-Dargery,
Bobby Pirillo. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.
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