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❖❖❖ IN THIS ISSUE SOUTH AFRICA, Part Two BY BRIAN FREEDMAN NEW YORK CORNER NAI TAPAS BAR By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR CARMEL VALLEY WINERIES By Geoff Kalish ❖❖❖ SOUTH AFRICA, Part Two BY BRIAN FREEDMAN ![]()
Dinner at Bosman’s Restaurant
is a classic affair (below) yet still electrified
with the kind of unexpected twists that make
return visits a good idea. Set in the elegant dining room off the lobby in the Manor House of the five-star Grande Roche hotel in Paarl, with Paarl Rock rising in the distance, the cuisine here, from Executive Chef Roland Gorgosilich, features dishes like a jus-glazed ostrich filet with bread dumpling, mushroom velouté and cranberry gel; and springbok loin, poached sous vide, accompanied by a cocoa jus and hazelnut sponge, as well as parsnip puree and figs.
There is also highly professional wine service
from an extensive list. Camps Bay, in Cape Town,
is home to the Leopards Bar at 12
Apostles.
Sundowners—exactly what you think: cocktails at
the end of the day—are a leisurely experience
there, with the sun dipping toward the water
glistening beneath the balcony of the bar, the
iconic Table Mountain in the distance, a lovely
selection of bites and fuller meals and deep lists
of spirits, cocktails, wines and cigars.
Impeccably fresh prawn
In Cape Town, dining runs the gamut from the casual
to the formal, as you’d expect in an increasingly
important business and tourism hub of wonderfully
distinct neighborhoods. Kloof Street House
(below)
with its funky interior that reminded me of New
Orleans, was A meal at the gorgeous Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel, in the Planet Restaurant under the care of Chef Rudi Liebenberg, is a wonderful way to see how local ingredients—from grilled springbok loin with cumin, labneh, roasted baby beetroot, morogo (a wild African spinach) and a braised shank croquette to curry-leaf butter-poached crayfish—can be transformed into dishes both luxurious and playful.
Over
at the expansive Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, the
swanky Baia Seafood
Restaurant (right) serves
up a fantastic local bounty, including prawns
seemingly any way you can imagine and an excellent
dish of ginger- and coriander-spiced kingklip, a
local delicacy
No serious food lover should miss indulging in
what must be one of the great yet
all-too-unfamiliar cuisines of the world: Cape
Malay. Its roots go back to the arrival of
Malaysian Muslims, who founded as their epicenter
in the city the Bo-Kaap neighborhood, the houses
painted colors so vibrant they seem almost
electric. The flavors of Cape Malay food will be
more or less familiar to lovers of Indian and
South East Asian dishes, yet it is definitely its
own cuisine.
Then,
of
course, there is the wine industry of South
Africa, which has been on the ascent for years
now. I’ve always been a fan of the wines, but
never realized how many more styles there are than
what most wine lists feature on the other side of
the Atlantic. Ask most Americans what they think
of the wines of South Africa, and they’ll
immediately start talking about Chenin ❖❖❖ NEW YORK
CORNER
By John Mariani ![]() 174 First Avenue (at 11th Street) 212- 677-1030 naitapas.nyc
In the language of Galicia, Nai means
“mother,” and the owners of this six-year-old
tapas restaurant in the East Village say its
significance is “to
continue the secrets of the most traditional
cuisine ... the cozy feeling of home when you
don’t know where to go.” Nai is open for lunch Sat. &
Sun., for dinner nightly. ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
CARMEL VALLEY WINERIES By Geoff Kalish
Visitors to the
Monterey Peninsula often flock to picturesque
Carmel-by-the-Sea, where typical tourist shops,
upscale emporiums like Tiffany’s and Bottega
Veneta, winery tasting rooms, and a range of
restaurants dot the streets of the barely
one-square-mile village, and pace often
frenetic. Those who sojourn to the area to relax
and/or just taste wine usually head to Carmel
Valley, with its low-key roadside village and
nearby areas featuring over 20 winery tasting
rooms and the newly renovated, spectacular, yet
tranquil Bernardus Lodge & Spa. Bernardus Winery
Over 25 years ago, when Dutch race car driver Ben
Pon started this winery, few thought that Carmel
Valley area could produce premium wine and there
were no tasting rooms in the area. Now managed by
Matt Shea and American-born, French-trained
winemaker Dean DeKorth, Bernardus routinely
releases over 50,00 cases a year of premium wine,
and they are only one of over 20 tasting rooms in
the area. “Attention to detail, with sustainable
vineyard practices, hand-picking, continued
experimentation and a philosophy of producing
wines that are as natural and unmanipulated as
possible,” is what Pon, Shea and DeKorth feel accounts
for their success, with new releases routinely
winning multiple awards. A
Sampling of Recent Releases 2012 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
($26)--This recent FiftyBest Gold Medal winner has
a bouquet of ripe cherries and plums, with hints
of chocolate and a well-integrated taste of ripe
berries, spice and oak with a long, memorable
finish. 2010 Marinus
($65)--This Bordeaux-like blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdoit
and Malbec from a single vineyard (Marinus – after
Mr. Pon’s middle name), shows a bouquet and taste
of cassis and anise spice and a long finish with
hints of cherries and a touch of tannin. 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (($20)--Made from
primarily Sauvignon Blanc and a small amount of
Semillon grapes (all from Griva Vineyard in the
Arroyo Secco area) this wine has a bouquet and
taste of grapefruit and ripe melons, with a hint
of lime and a vibrant, refreshing finish.
Founded by the Joullian and Sias families of
Oklahoma City in 1982, this boutique winery, producing
6,000 – 8,000 cases of primarily Bordeaux-blend
wine a year, has
been managed by Stanford graduate Ridge Watson
(brother of golfer Tom Watson) since its
inception. Completed in 1992 the winery has the
capability to handle each of the vineyard blocks
of grapes separately “so that the complex
subtleties and nuances in the field could be
transferred into the bottle,” state the owners. A
Sampling of Recent Releases 2009 Carmel Valley Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon
($32)--Made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
(83%), Merlot (15%) and Cabernet Franc (12%) this
wine shows a
bouquet and taste of cassis and
blackberries with hints of ripe cherries in its
smooth, pleasant finish. 2012 Merlot ($35)--This wine has a fragrant bouquet
of cassis and a mouthfilling taste of ripe plums
and cherries with a long smooth finish. Pair this
wine with fare ranging from hamburgers and grilled
steak to baked chicken and veal chops. 2014 Sauvignon Blanc ($26)--Blended with
20% Semillon, this wine has a bouquet and taste of
pears and ripe reaches with a vibrant citrusy
finish.
What started out as a hobby in the 1980’s for
former race-car driver and dentist Francis Joyce has
developed into a small production winery (9,000
cases annually), run by Russell Joyce (Francis’s
eldest son).
And while each year they produce over a
dozen different labels, they “strive to produce
wines that each show balance and complexity. As a
testament to this philosophy, the demand for
production has increased to such an extent over
the past few years that the winemaking facility
outgrew its Carmel Valley location and is now
situated in larger quarters in Salinas. A
Sampling of Recent Releases 2013
Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia
Highlands) ($38)--Made from
grapes harvested in the early morning hours,
cold-soaked before 14 days of fermentation, this
FiftyBest Double Gold Medal winner shows
a floral bouquet of cherries and strawberries,
with a jammy taste of ripe strawberries and
cranberries and hints of exotic spices in the
finish. 2014
Pinot Blanc
($25)--This refreshing wine has a fruity bouquet
and taste of pears and peaches with a dry,
vibrant finish. 2011
Estate Reserve Merlot
($50)--This is a not-to-be-missed Merlot, with a
bouquet of cassis and boysenberries and a
well-integrated taste of blackberries
and oak with hints of anise and chocolate in the
long finish.
Don’t expect to find any Rombi wines at retail
wine shops or on restaurant lists. Retired realtor
Sal Rombi only makes 150 cases a year and sells
his entire production at the tasting
room or on line. And if you happen to be in the
area, it’s well worth a visit to his tasting room
(where he presides) and after a sip or two you may
well be convinced to purchase a bottle of his
excellent Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot,
with grapes from a picturesque vineyard set high
in the hills and surrounded by thick woodlands. A
Sampling of Recent Releases 2011 Rombi Estate Merlot ($65)--With a bouquet
and taste of cassis and black currants with hints
of oak, this wine is perfect to drink now with
lamb and veal. 2010 Rombi Estate Cabernet
($85) –This wine shows a bouquet of plums,
apricots and a hint of tar with a well integrated
taste of ripe berries and oak and a long finish
with a touch of tannin. Drink this wine now with
ripe cheeses or with chicken and veal in a few
years once it matures.
In 1950 Robert Talbott, Sr. and his wife Audrey
started a men’s tie business in Carmel that has
grown to an internationally-known producer of
luxury clothing. While on business trips to Europe
with his family, eldest son Robb developed a
passion for French Burgundy wines and decided to
attempt to emulate these in California. In 1982 he
began planting on a cold, windswept Carmel Valley
mountain, that locals told him was too cold and
too difficult to plant to yield even acceptable
grapes. Now
with production over 150,000 cases annually from
grapes grown on the original Diamond T Estate
Vineyard, nearby Sleepy Hollow vineyard
and estate plantings in other “difficult” Monterey
locations Robb has certainly proven the naysayers
wrong – with very popular Burgundian style
Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that
fulfill his philosophy of being “unique and
exceptional.” A
Sampling of Recent Releases 2013 Kali Hart Chardonnay ($20)--Named after
Robb’s youngest daughter this wine shows a bouquet
and mouthfilling taste of pineapple and other
tropical fruit with a very fruity finish, that
makes this bottle an excellent aperitif quaff. 2013 Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir ($42)--Produced from
grapes grown in a vineyard that is cooled by fog
during the day, this deep red wine has a bouquet
of ripe cherries and a complex well-integrated
taste of cherry, plum and cranberry with notes of
vanilla in its finish, perfect to pair with veal
and salmon. 2013 Logan Pinot Noir
($25)--Named after Robb Talbott’s son, this wine
shows a bouquet of cherries and blackberries with
hints of cinnamon and a taste of ripe plums and
cranberries and notes of pepper and vanilla in its
long lasting finish. ❖❖❖
FROM A STUDY DONE BY THE UNIVERSITY OF B.S. ![]()
"What
Your
Favorite Pizza Topping Says About Your Personality" By Phil Mutz,
Littlethings.com Plain
Pizza--Reliable, Steadfast,
Concerned.
Christian
evangelist Jerry Falwell, Jr. appeared with Donald Trump
to applaud ❖❖❖
Sponsored by Banfi
Vintners
A
Masterpiece from Montalcino By John
Fodera, TuscanVines
I stood in the vineyard.
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"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
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