MARIANI’S
Virtual Gourmet
Audrey Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart at The
Colony in NYC in Sabrina
(1954)
❖❖❖ IN THIS ISSUE PHILADELPHIA, Part One By John Mariani and Joanna Pruess NEW YORK CORNER THE REGENCY BAR & GRILL By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR WHICH COMES FIRST? THE WINE OR THE CHEESE? By John Mariani ❖❖❖ PHILADELPHIA EATS Part One By John Mariani Philadelphia Soft Pretzels
Any day now I expect
the New York-based foodie media to declare
Philadelphia to be the hottest
restaurant city in America simply because
they’re running out of other cities
to name. Fact
is, Philadelphia has
for decades been a terrific place to eat out,
from the vast Reading Terminal
Market to the slew of restaurants opened over
the years by Stephen Starr—the
city’s equivalent of Danny Meyer, Charlie Palmer
and Rich Melman thrown
together—whose groundbreaking concepts in
Philadelphia include Alma de Cuba,
Talula’s Garden, El Rey, Barclay Prime, Pod,
Buddakan, Serpico and others. His
newest is Love, about which more in a moment.
Given
its location in
East Passyunk’s maze of narrow streets, you don’t
expect to come upon Le
Virtù’s splendid piazza, with its wide mural of
Abruzzo, the Italian province
whence owners Francis Cratil-Cretarola and his
wife, Cathy Lee, and Chef Damon
Menapace draw their inspiration.
Indeed, Le Virtù is America’s only true
Abruzzese restaurant, based on
the food of that mountainous Adriatic region known
for its seafood, maccheroni
alla ghitarra and ample use
of chile peppers the people call diavolicchie
(little devils).
Open nightly for
dinner.
BISTROT LA
MINETTE
What
Le Virtù is to
regional Italian food, Bistrot La Minette is to
French bourgeois cooking. Chef/owner
Peter Woolsey and Chef
Kenneth Bush are dedicated to reproducing the
beloved dishes of bistro-ism and
do so within a dining room that could easily fit
onto any street in
Montparnasse or Marseilles. Few
American
restaurants attempt to serve rabbit, so I applaud
La Minette’s well-fattened
rabbit braised with assertive mustard and served
with housemade tagliatelle
and rabbit
jus ($27). And a real test of a French
bistro is how it turned out gnocchi
Parisienne, which so often comes as little
more than a bland potato puree
gratin. At La Minette the gnocchi have heft,
texture and good rich cream and
butter with a full-flavored cheese gratin ($24)
and the lagniappe of baby
artichokes and whipped goat’s cheese. Open for Lunch Sat.
& Sun., for dinner nightly.
In 2008,
Zahav, Philadelphia’s
modern Israeli restaurant, was on John
Mariani’s list of Esquire’s Top
20 New Restaurants. Philadelphia
magazine
also chose
the spot as the Best New
Restaurant that year. “We were the only modern
Israeli restaurant in the U.S.
at the time,” says
chef/owner
Michael
Solomonov.
Zahav is open for
dinner nightly.
❖❖❖ NEW
YORK CORNER
By John Mariani
THE REGENCY BAR & GRILL
Loews Regency Hotel 540 Park Avenue (at 61st Street) 212-339-4050 For
several decades now The Regency Bar
& Grill at Loews Regency Hotel
has been known for its “Power Breakfast,”
at which the city’s
movers and shakers get in an early morning
meeting before limo-ing off to Wall
Street, City Hall or some media
conglomerate. They nod at each other from
across the room, they order the bagels and
smoked salmon ($28) or the eggs
Benedict ($27), and some have even been
known to follow with a second breakfast
meeting around nine o’clock. Rev. Al
Sharpton can still be found there with
ex-Trump fixer Michael Cohen before he
starts eating his breakfasts in his
cell.
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sat. & Sun.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
Which
Comes First? By
John Mariani
For a while there back in the 1990s it
seemed
publishers were falling over themselves to
put out books on the subject of
marrying food and wine. Taking a perfectly
reasonable proposition that red
wines go better with heavier foods and
whites with lighter, wine writers felt
they needed to match precise wines to
precise foods and from that extrapolate
that there truly is a wine for every food on
Earth. (Though such authors have
tried, none yet has come up with a good
option to serve with artichokes or
asparagus.)
❖❖❖
According
to the Irish Times,
The Dutch council of state has ruled that Pastafarianism
is not a religion, denying Mienke de Wilde (right), a follower of the Church of the Flying
Spaghetti Monster, the right to wear a colander on her
head in her passport and driving license photo.
The church was founded in the US in 2005 as a response to
Christian fundamentalists advocating the teaching of
creationism in schools. Believers worship an
invisible and undetectable god called the Flying
Spaghetti Monster, wear colanders on their heads in
homage to their deity, revere pirates as the original
Pastafarians and vow to reject “crazy nonsense,” be nice
to all sentient beings and eat a lot of pasta. BLOCK THOSE METAPHORS! “Sno-ball:
A city that gets as hot and humid as New Orleans needs
a few icy tricks up its sleeve to stay cool in the
summer. The New Orleans sno-ball may seem like a
cousin of the ubiquitous and more widely known snow
cone, but only in as much as 600-thread count Egyptian
cotton is a cousin to polyester.”--Stephanie
Carter, "An Eater’s Guide to New Orleans," Eater.com (Aug. 27,
2018).
❖❖❖
Wine
Column Sponsored by Banfi Vintners Wine is a joy year-round but
in cooler weather one
grape varietal has really taken center stage in
my daily activities – that most Italian of
grapes, Sangiovese, and its ultimate expression
– Brunello di Montalcino.
Recommendations for Celebrating
Sangiovese BelnerO Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese
– A refined
cuvée of noble red grapes perfected by our pioneering
clonal research. This dark beauty, BelnerO, is
produced at our innovative winery, chosen 11
consecutive years as Italy’s Premier Vineyard Estate.
Fermented in our patented temperature controlled
French oak and aged approximately 2 additional years.
Unfiltered, and Nitrogen bottled to minimize sulfites. Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino –
Rich, round, velvety and intensely
aromatic, with flavor hints of licorice, cherry, and
spices. Brunello di Montalcino possesses an intense
ruby-red color, and a depth, complexity and opulence
that is softened by an elegant, lingering aftertaste.
Unfiltered after 1998 vintage. Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino – Brunello's "younger brother," produced
from select Sangiovese grapes and aged in barrique for
10 to 12 months. Deep ruby-red, elegant, vibrant,
well-balanced and stylish with a dry velvety
finish.
Poggio all’Oro Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva – A single vineyard selection of our most
historically outstanding Sangiovese, aged five years
before release, the additional year more than that
required of Brunello including 6 months in barrel and
6 months more in bottle to grant its “Riserva”
designation. Incredible
elegance and harmony. Intense with lots of fruit and
subtle wood influence. Round, complete, well balanced
with hints of chocolate and berries. Unfiltered after
1998. Poggio alle Mura – The first tangible result of years of
intensive clonal research on Montalcino’s native
Sangiovese grape.
Estate bottled from the splendidly sun drenched
vineyards surrounding the medieval Castello from which
it takes its name.
The Brunello
di Montalcino is seductive, silky and smoky. Deep ruby
in color with an expressive bouquet of violets, fruits
and berries as well as cigar box, cedar and exotic
spices. The Rosso
di Montalcino is also intense ruby red. The bouquet
is fresh and fruity with typical varietal notes of
cherry and blackberry, enriched by more complex hints
of licorice, tobacco and hazelnut. It is full
bodied, yet with a soft structure, and a surprisingly
long finish. The Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva is deep ruby red with garnet
reflections and a rich, ample bouquet that hints of
prune jam, coffee, cacao and a light balsamic note. It is full
and powerful, with ripe and gentle tannins that make
it velvety and harmonious; this wine is supported by a
pleasing minerality that to me speaks soundly of that
special hillside in southern Montalcino. SummuS – A wine of towering elegance, SummuS is an
extraordinary blend of Sangiovese which contributes
body; Cabernet Sauvignon for fruit and structure; and
Syrah for elegance, character and a fruity bouquet. An elegant,
complex and harmonious red wine.
Cum Laude – A complex and elegant red which graduated
“With Honors,” characterized by aromas of juicy
berries and fresh spices. Centine – A Cuvee that is more than half
Sangiovese, the balanced consisting of equal parts of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Vinified in
a firm, round style that easily accompanies a wide
range of dishes, this is a smooth and fragrantly
satisfying wine with international character, and a
perennial favorite at my own dinner table.
Banfi Chianti Superiore – The “Superiore” designation signifies
stricter government regulations regarding production
and aging requirements, as compared to regular
Chianti. An
intense ruby red wine with fruit forward aromas and
floral notes. This
is a round wine with well-balanced acidity and fruit.
Banfi Chianti Classico – An enduring classic: alluring
bouquet of black fruit and violets; rich flavors of
cherry and leather; supple tannins and good acidity
for dining.
Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva – Produced from select grapes grown in the
"Classico" region of Chianti, this dry, fruity and
well-balanced red has a full bouquet reminiscent of
violets.
Fonte alla Selva Chianti Classico – This is our newest entry into the Chianti
arena, coming from a 99 acre estate in Castellina, the
heart of the Chianti Classico region. The wine is
a captivating mauve red that smells of cherry, plum
and blackberry with hints of spice. It is
round, full and balanced with very good
acidity.
Col di Sasso – Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Luscious,
complex and soft with persistent notes of fruit and
great Italian style structure.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences." THIS WEEK:
Eating Las Vegas
JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas
food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is
the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50
Essential Restaurants (as well as
the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
Robert Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish,
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Advisor: Gerry
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