MARIANI’S
Virtual Gourmet
Bill Murray and Andie MacDowell in "Ground Hog
Day" (1993)
❖❖❖ IN THIS ISSUE JERUSALEM: A NEW CULINARY MECCA By Geoff Kalish & Jack Spinak
NEW YORK CORNER JOSEPH'S By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR FINE SPARKLING WINES FOR ST. VALENTINE'S DAY By John Mariani ❖❖❖
Mamilla
Hotel Rooftop
Restaurant
The 21st century has witnessed a
culinary revolution in Israel. For example,
while 30 years ago street food in
Tel Aviv was primarily pita bread filled with
falafel, often cooked in
frequently re-used oil, on a recent visit to Tel
Aviv’s historic Rabin Square,
we ate kosher poke—bowls brimming with rice or
quinoa and slices of raw tuna or
salmon, topped with fresh greens and a tasty
sesame-based sauce. And the area
is now chock full of numerous small storefronts,
each featuring food ranging
from cronuts, to wood-fired gourmet pizzas to
hamburgers and, of course,
classic Israeli salads (a mix of diced cucumber,
tomato, onion and parsley
doused with oil and lemon juice). (Prices listed are based on a U.S. dollar at the current—and fairly stable—rate of 100 shekels equals $27)
www.shantyres.co.il
Open Monday through
Saturday for dinner with service into the wee
hours: expect dinner for two to
cost a very reasonable $100-$120, not including
wine, tax and tip.
Mamilla Hotel
Rooftop
Restaurant
Like Shanty, this restaurant
is
located just outside the ancient walls, but
sitting atop the Mamilla Hotel.
This open air, very popular kosher dining spot
overlooks not only the old but
the “new” city, providing memorable views from all
dining areas, albeit on the
rainy night we were there a plastic enclosure
decreased the magnificence of the
images. And there’s a choice of creative salads, like a mix of fresh sprouts and herbs, almonds, sun-dried cranberries with strips of crispy tortilla and a pomegranate vinaigrette. We accompanied the meal with a light, raspberry-scented 2014 Evitar Syrah from Israel, and for dessert we shared a decadent chocolate tart, filled with peanut butter crème on top of which was poured hot salted toffee, playfully listed as “Snicker” on the menu. Open daily for lunch and dinner (with special Friday night and Saturday lunch cold “Shabbat” menus); expect dinner for two to cost $120-$130, excluding wine, tax and tip.
Chakra 4 King George Street 972-2-625-2733 www.chakrarest.com Located down a pathway off King George Street, on the outskirts of Independence Park in Jerusalem’s “city center” area, this establishment has a New York Upper East Side vibe, with dining on a covered outside patio or around a large, crowded, semicircular bar and an open kitchen. The fare from a daily changing menu can be described as New York Steakhouse meets an Israeli chef—Eran Peretz—with appetizers like crispy calamari and artichokes served with a Moroccan-spiced aȉoli and smoked eggplant topped with tahini, accompanied by a tomato salad, as well as typical oven-roasted cauliflower served with not so typical goat cheese labeneh. Main courses of note were a sliced charcoal oven-roasted ribeye steak for two, and a whole charcoal oven-roasted sea bass topped with green salsa. For wine we chose a Clos de Gat Syrah that had the bouquet and taste of plums and cherries with notes of apricot in its finish. Desserts range from homemade pistachio ice cream to tiramisù. Of note, our only complaint with this establishment was the very long wait between the appetizers and main course. Open daily for dinner and lunch on Saturday; expect dinner for two to cost $140-$150, excluding wine, tax and tip Azura 4 Ha-Eshkol Street 972-3-623-5204 Located in the Iraqi Section of the Mehane Yehuda market, often referred to as “the shuk,” this kosher breakfast and luncheon spot is a favorite with local foodies. They do have a phone, but reservations are not accepted. But the wait is worth it to dine at this storefront site inside a small, non-descript rectangular room with red-and-white-checkered tablecloths or at tables outside the restaurant along an alleyway. Along with the thick bread and hummus, notable choices were the Kurdish-inspired sweet and sour kubbeh soup, with beef-infused semolina dumplings and a beetroot broth (left), as well as the eggplant Azura, the vegetable grilled and topped with a thick layer of ground beef, pine nuts and a tomato-based, cinnamon spiced sauce The thick beef goulash (right) was like Jack’s grandmother from Safed used to make.
Machneyuda 10 Beit Ya’akov Street 972-2-533-3442 www.machneyuda.co.il As opposed to Azura, this very popular non-kosher restaurant accepts reservations via phone or an on-line booking site. But to get one at a reasonable time for dinner takes booking at least two months in advance, which we did, and during the height of the tourist season (around Christmastime), as they say in Brooklyn, “fuggetaboutit.” It’s located on a side street near the Mahane Yehuda market in a casual space that features an open kitchen and upstairs balcony, with walls lined with wine bottles whence at least a partial view of the kitchen is afforded most tables. As to the food, it’s sublime, a mix of the fare of many different global areas with a bit of updated spicing and cooking techniques. And, as advised by the friendly yet very professional waitress, the way to go is to share. So we did, with appetizers of a decorative mix of three varieties of tomatoes, labeneh, arugula and a tangy vinaigrette called a Bandora Salad; an order of tuna sashimi topped with pomegranate and pistachios and dabs of crème fraîche; a large octopus tentacle served with sweet potato and zesty chimichurri glaze; shikshukit, tahini and yogurt atop ground kabob beef seasoned with a hint of cinnamon; and the piéce de résistance, a jar filled with truffle-flavored polenta mixed with earthy mushrooms and topped with slices of parmesan. Main courses were orders of lamb T-bones with lamb crumble, pumpkin and labneh, as well as a dewy fillet of sea bass atop a mélange of vegetable and a tomato-based sauce. We enjoyed a bottle of Galil Brut sparkling wine that had a floral bouquet and taste of apples and strawberries, and for dessert we shared a rectangular tin filled with rich Bavarian cream coated with gooey toffee, and a take on the British Banoffee Pie as a slice of creamy cheesecake, with a graham cracker crust, topped with toffee and a whole banana (left).
Open nightly for dinner and daily for lunch except Saturday; expect lunch or dinner for two to cost $120-$130, excluding wine, tax and tip. ❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
By John Mariani JOSEPH'S
3 Hanover Square (off Old Slip)
Comfort,
a civilized ambiance, attentive service,
generosity of spirit. It seems such virtues once
associated with good restaurants have been
replaced by cramped, naked tables,
ear-shattering noise, a “who-gets-what?”
attitude and portions of food the size of a shoe
polish tin. Open for lunch and
dinner Mon.-Fri.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
❖❖❖
For
St. Valentine’s Day, A Good Sparkling
Wine
Champagne
long ago won the image battle for
bragging rights about sparkling wine, but
just in the past decade a number of
countries have produced excellent bubblies
that can vie with much more
expensive Champagnes for St. Valentine’s
Day. Here are several.
Anna
de Codorníu Brute Rosé ($14)—Codorníu was
one of the first to proudly show that Spanish
cavas could be first-rate
sparklers at a very decent price. This
charming rosé, in a distinctive white
bottle, at such a good price is made
from 70% Pinot Noir and 30%
Chardonnay, and according to the Champagne
method, emerging as a well-aged,
citrusy, floral wine that begins and remains
refreshing on its own or with
food.
The owners of Paris’s first nudist
restaurant, O’naturel, will close in February, 15 months after opening,
offering a three-course menu for $57.50. Owners Mike and
Stéphane Saada, who are not nudists, posted on
Facebook: “We will only remember the good times.”
ARTICLES WE NEVER
FINISHED READING "How Restaurants Are Working to
Destigmatize Menstrual Products: By offering free tampons and
pads in bathrooms, operators are creating more inclusive
spaces" by Naomi Tomky, Eater.com (1/8/19). ❖❖❖ Wine
Column Sponsored by Banfi Vintners Wine is a joy year-round but
in cooler weather one
grape varietal has really taken center stage in
my daily activities – that most Italian of
grapes, Sangiovese, and its ultimate expression
– Brunello di Montalcino.
Recommendations for Celebrating
Sangiovese BelnerO Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese
– A refined
cuvée of noble red grapes perfected by our pioneering
clonal research. This dark beauty, BelnerO, is
produced at our innovative winery, chosen 11
consecutive years as Italy’s Premier Vineyard Estate.
Fermented in our patented temperature controlled
French oak and aged approximately 2 additional years.
Unfiltered, and Nitrogen bottled to minimize sulfites. Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino –
Rich, round, velvety and intensely
aromatic, with flavor hints of licorice, cherry, and
spices. Brunello di Montalcino possesses an intense
ruby-red color, and a depth, complexity and opulence
that is softened by an elegant, lingering aftertaste.
Unfiltered after 1998 vintage. Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino – Brunello's "younger brother," produced
from select Sangiovese grapes and aged in barrique for
10 to 12 months. Deep ruby-red, elegant, vibrant,
well-balanced and stylish with a dry velvety
finish.
Poggio all’Oro Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva – A single vineyard selection of our most
historically outstanding Sangiovese, aged five years
before release, the additional year more than that
required of Brunello including 6 months in barrel and
6 months more in bottle to grant its “Riserva”
designation. Incredible
elegance and harmony. Intense with lots of fruit and
subtle wood influence. Round, complete, well balanced
with hints of chocolate and berries. Unfiltered after
1998. Poggio alle Mura – The first tangible result of years of
intensive clonal research on Montalcino’s native
Sangiovese grape.
Estate bottled from the splendidly sun drenched
vineyards surrounding the medieval Castello from which
it takes its name.
The Brunello
di Montalcino is seductive, silky and smoky. Deep ruby
in color with an expressive bouquet of violets, fruits
and berries as well as cigar box, cedar and exotic
spices. The Rosso
di Montalcino is also intense ruby red. The bouquet
is fresh and fruity with typical varietal notes of
cherry and blackberry, enriched by more complex hints
of licorice, tobacco and hazelnut. It is full
bodied, yet with a soft structure, and a surprisingly
long finish. The Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva is deep ruby red with garnet
reflections and a rich, ample bouquet that hints of
prune jam, coffee, cacao and a light balsamic note. It is full
and powerful, with ripe and gentle tannins that make
it velvety and harmonious; this wine is supported by a
pleasing minerality that to me speaks soundly of that
special hillside in southern Montalcino. SummuS – A wine of towering elegance, SummuS is an
extraordinary blend of Sangiovese which contributes
body; Cabernet Sauvignon for fruit and structure; and
Syrah for elegance, character and a fruity bouquet. An elegant,
complex and harmonious red wine.
Cum Laude – A complex and elegant red which graduated
“With Honors,” characterized by aromas of juicy
berries and fresh spices. Centine – A Cuvee that is more than half
Sangiovese, the balanced consisting of equal parts of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Vinified in
a firm, round style that easily accompanies a wide
range of dishes, this is a smooth and fragrantly
satisfying wine with international character, and a
perennial favorite at my own dinner table.
Banfi Chianti Superiore – The “Superiore” designation signifies
stricter government regulations regarding production
and aging requirements, as compared to regular
Chianti. An
intense ruby red wine with fruit forward aromas and
floral notes. This
is a round wine with well-balanced acidity and fruit.
Banfi Chianti Classico – An enduring classic: alluring
bouquet of black fruit and violets; rich flavors of
cherry and leather; supple tannins and good acidity
for dining.
Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva – Produced from select grapes grown in the
"Classico" region of Chianti, this dry, fruity and
well-balanced red has a full bouquet reminiscent of
violets.
Fonte alla Selva Chianti Classico – This is our newest entry into the Chianti
arena, coming from a 99 acre estate in Castellina, the
heart of the Chianti Classico region. The wine is
a captivating mauve red that smells of cherry, plum
and blackberry with hints of spice. It is
round, full and balanced with very good
acidity.
Col di Sasso – Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Luscious,
complex and soft with persistent notes of fruit and
great Italian style structure.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
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Gourmet is linked to four excellent
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savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
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Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
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to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
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travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences." THIS WEEK:
Eating Las Vegas
JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas
food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is
the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50
Essential Restaurants (as well as
the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
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