MARIANI’S
Virtual Gourmet
"One of the Family" By Frederick George
Cotman (1880)
❖❖❖ IN THIS ISSUE DOVER SOLE COMES FROM DOVER . . . AND OTHER SEAFOOD MYTHS By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER RESTAURANTS MUST OPEN TO SAVE NEW YORK'S SOUL By John Mariani NEW YORK RESTAURANTS OPEN FOR TAKE-OUT DURING CORONAVIRUS CRISIS By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR HAVE A WINE TO SELL? WANT TO BID ON A BOTTLE? LOSE YOUR WINE CELLAR IN A FIRE? By John Mariani ❖❖❖ DOVER SOLE COMES FROM DOVER . . . AND OTHER SEAFOOD MYTHS By John Mariani Dover
sole à la meunière
There’s no doubt that myth-making
has its delightful place in gastronomy. I love
the Italian idea that eating lentils on New
Year’s brings good luck. How rice is a
symbol of fecundity at a wedding ceremony, and
olive oil as a food of consecration. How,
according to the Bible (Matthew 17:26-27),
Christ told St. Peter that the first fish he
would catch would contain a coin with which to
pay a local tax, and how, when Peter pulled up a
fish, he squeezed it so hard as to make the poor
fish cry out in pain, causing Peter to release
the fish with his finger prints on each side of
its body so that the species, elsewhere called
John Dory, became known as St. Peter’s fish
throughout the Mediterranean (below).
While this seems like a
no-brainer, it isn’t always the case. A fish
just out of water may not be in
the best condition to be cooked. When a fish is
caught, it struggles, sending adrenalin throughout
its flesh and muscles, causing them to tighten up. If the
fish hasn’t yet gone through rigor mortis, which can
take a day or so, it can be tough as rope. Chilean
sea bass, halibut, skate, and many other fish are
best if they sit in the ‘fridge for a day or two
before cooking. Freezing fish destroys its taste and texture. This would be applicable to most species wrapped in plastic and tossed into one’s home freezer, where the ice crystals formed by frozen water in fish can rupture the membranes of cells, whose proteins and vitamins then seep into the liquid you get after thawing the fish. Freezing can also promote oxidation of fats, which causes rancidity. Nevertheless,
well-freezing fish—that is, flash frozen shipboard
at an intensely low temperature, as they do with
most fish sold in seafood-loving Japan—does much
less harm to taste or texture, and such fish is far
preferable to fish that has not been kept well and
sold at market past its peak of freshness. Ninety-nine
percent of all shrimp sold in this country, by the
way, is frozen.
This idea once had a
certain validity, simply because many fish markets
received their last shipments the previous Thursday
or Friday and awaited the next one on Tuesday. Modern
transport, however, including the phenomenon of
overnight shipping, has made a myth of such a claim,
and plenty of great, fresh fish comes in on Monday
at the big markets. Dover sole comes from the Straits of Dover. Dover sole is not a
species. It is just common sole, Solea solea, which
swims throughout the Mediterranean and all the way
up past Scotland to Norway. The fattest of these
soles come from cold waters in the North Sea, and
for hundreds of years the English seaport of Dover
was the principal market for the fish. Nevertheless,
the idea that sole from Dover
is unique persists.
Wherever it comes from, it is very expensive
under the name “Dover
sole.” The best lobsters come from Maine. Another misnomer: So-called
“Maine lobsters” may come from anywhere on the
Atlantic banks, from Nova Scotia as far south as
Charleston. They are all of the species called,
proudly, homarus
americanus, and, with their massive, edible
claws, they are
indeed vastly superior to punier species from other
parts of the world.
Colder waters do may make for fatter
lobsters, but residency in Maine is not a
requirement for that.
While we’re on the subject, it is another
myth that the larger, and therefore older, the
lobster, the tougher it will be on the plate.
Careful cooking can render a five-pound lobster
every bit as tender as a two-pounder.
A resounding no! to this
one. Bay scallops (Argopecten
irradians) are barely available at all these
days because one of their principal sea beds, around
Peconic Bay in Long Island, New York, was in the
1980s devastated by “brown tide” disease, which
wiped the population out and kept it from
rebounding. There
is a small supply of Nantucket bay scallops
available, always at high prices, but these usually
go to restaurants that can charge top dollar for
what has become a true delicacy.. So, if you see
“bay scallops” in the market selling for $9-$11 per
pound, be assured that they are either sea scallops
illegally cut small to resemble the smaller bay
scallops or calico scallops (another species, A. gibbus, usually
shipped from the Gulf of Mexico or China), which
can’t compare with true bays. I did recently taste
Peruvian bay scallops, which are farmed, and they
were quite sweet and delicious and, because they are
mostly frozen, available year round. Never eat oysters in months without an “R” in them. Once upon a time this
notion had a health reason to back it up. Oysters,
like all shellfish, may pick up harmful bacteria at
any time of year, but bacteria increase in warmer
waters, and the months of May, June, July and August
(months lacking an “r’) have warmer water than in
the rest of the year.
Also, oysters spawn in summer, rendering them
not toxic but sometimes a bit bitter (the exception
being the Kumamoto, which spawns in autumn). The best
preventive against getting such problematic oysters
is a good restaurateur or fishmonger who prides
himself on knowing the exact source
of his oysters, using only purveyors who monitor the
oysters’ water, so that the bacteria problem is a
very small one. Atlantic salmon are superior to farm-raised Pacific Northwest salmon. This one is based on a
marketing ploy suggesting that Atlantic salmon are
all wild, which is not at all the case. Truly
wild salmon are becoming more and more difficult to
find in either ocean; when they are, they are among
the finest seafood in the world. But the industry is
dominated by huge fish farms, whose methodology of
feeding and maintaining their salmon farms differ.
Indeed, there have been recent concerns that some
farmed salmon may contain a higher percentage of
PCBs, which are known carcinogens. Ironically,
farmed salmon is fattier than wild but contain lower
amounts of the healthful antioxidant called omega-3
fatty acid. Look for the word “wild” when ordering
salmon; then hope for the best. Smoked fish must always cost a lot. The fact that smoked
salmon, sturgeon, and other fish do indeed cost a
bundle—many times what fresh fish of the same
species goes for—does not mean it is justified. Remember:
smoking fish, or meat, is a way of preserving it (we
have records of smoking food as far back as the
Sumerians of 3500
B.C), and it is an extremely simple process. You take
the piece of fish, hang it over a smoking fire, or,
industrially, within an enclosed smoke box. “Cold
smoking” is done at about 85 degrees; “hot smoking,”
which doesn’t actually preserve the fish but does
cook it and impart a smoky flavor, is done above 212
degrees. And that’s about it. True, the fish does
shrink in the process, but not nearly so much as to
justify the outrageous prices smoked fish go for. The fact
is, you could do the same thing at home with a
simple smoker that isn’t much more than a metal tin. “Sushi grade” tuna is the world’s finest. Here’s another gimmick, one
that suggests that sushi chefs use only the very
highest grade of tuna to make sushi, which, eaten
raw, must have a pristine flavor and plenty of
richness, sometimes compared to filet mignon. But
there is no industry definition for “sushi grade”; a
restaurateur or fishmonger can call any tuna he
wants “sushi grade.” Often they will point to the
intense maroon-red color of the tuna, which in
Japanese is called toro and should come from the fish’s
belly. Yet,
the richest, fattiest tuna used by sushi chefs may
not be very red at all. Russian caviar (as well as Iranian, both from the Caspian Sea), banned in 2005, is now available in stores and restaurants. If you can find it, it will not only be very expensive but is a hybrid of beluga, not the true species called Huso huso. The ban was imposed not for political purposes but to save the sturgeon, which were fast becoming depleted and listed by the International Union for Conservation of Nature as “critically endangered.” You may also find fish roe from other species of fish, and the more scrupulous importers will say as much. Some, however, continue to call their product “Russian,” “Russian-style” or “Produced Fresh with Caspian Methods,” which are farm raised, largely in China, made from the Kaluga sturgeon. Some are quite tasty and close in flavor to the true Caspian Sea product, but you’re paying outrageous prices once reserved for only the finest Russian beluga, sevruga and ossietra. SANT AMBROEUS SOHO, WEST VILLAGE, MADISON AVENUE, SANT AMBROEUS COFFE BEER AT HANLEY and SOUTHAMPTON. For details go to www.santambroeus.com FELICE 83, FELICE 64 AND FELICE 15 GOLD STREETS are open for delivery and pick-up from 12pm to 9pm. More details are available at www.felicenyc.com ❖❖❖ NEW
YORK CORNER
NEW YORK
RESTAURANTS OPEN FOR TAKE-OUT NEW YORK'S
RESTAURANTS ARE CLOSED.
THEY NEED TO RE-OPEN FOR THE SURVIVAL OF OUR CITY'S SOUL By
John Mariani
Le Bernardin, NYC
It’s
been said that one of the first things people
drop from their lives in a crisis is going out
to dinner and that the first thing they do
when the crisis passes is to go with glee back
to their favorite restaurants. ❖❖❖ DURING CORONAVIRUS CRISIS By John Mariani
Restaurants of every stripe in
New York were ordered shut by Mayor Bill De
Blasio and Governor Andrew Cuomo and
only allowed to operate if they offer take-out
and/or delivery of food. On a day by day basis
I’ve been receiving notices from numerous
restaurants, some saying they don’t know if they
can continue to offer such service if the
business is not sufficient. For now—and I will
be updating this as often as possible—here are
restaurants now offering take-out and/or
delivery.
Katz's Delicatessen (205 E. Houston St.
212-254-2246). All the signature items available
incl. pastrami and corned beef. Takeout on-site.
Uses Caviar.
Benjamin
Steakhouse in
NYC (212-297-9177) and White Plains, NY
(914-428-6868) will be offering their full menu, as
well as selling packaged meats for delivery.
The
Patina Restaurant Group restaurants
are open for
takeout meals and delivery via Grubhub, Seamless,
and Caviar. Restaurants include: Lincoln
Ristorante 142 West 65th Street; 212-359-6500, menu incl.
crispy risotto, ravioli with lemon ricotta; panini
and more plus 20 bottles of wine;
The Altamarea
Group announced
their
gift card partnership, A Helping
Hand, with Citymeals,
the designated emergency responder for the city’s seniors, with 25% of
all gift card purchase will be donated to
Citymeals, to ensure our homebound elderly
neighbors receive nourishing meals during this
public health crisis. Restaurants
include: Ai
Fiori (The Langham Hotel,
400 Fifth Avenue; 212-613-8660;
Coarse Restaurant, 306
W 13th St; (646) 896-1404 is also offering wine by
the bottle—Albarino, Pinot
Noir and Tempranillo
Reserva. Food orders above 500 please choose
2 complimentary bottles of wine.
RezDora, 27 East 20th Street,
is offering a streamlined menu available for
delivery through Caviar with favorite dishes like
Cacio e Pepe Salad and Grandma
Walking Through the Forest. Order delivery
here: https://trycaviar.app.link/scg8wlmmU4 ;
Order
pick-up here: https://www.rezdora.nyc/online-ordering/rezdora/menu
Clinton Hall will
launch delivery and pickup starting Monday, March
23rd at their 16 W. 36th St. and 90 Washington St.
locations, incl. Fried Pickle Chips, Buffalo
Cauliflower, Beyond veggie ALT and the Double
Smashed Burger. For delivery visit, UberEats,
Seamless or Postmates.
Loulou (176 8th Ave.;
212-337-9577) is now delivering their French
bistro food directly to your door. Menu items
include a Niçoise Salad (right); Cavatelli
with wild mushroom ragu, lacinato kale, crispy
artichoke, and Parmesan crème; Duck Leg Confit and
and Steak Frites.
Order delivery by visiting Seamless,
UberEats and Grub Hub.
Ainslie (76 Ainslie; 347-725-3400) in
Williamsburg is offering up wood-fired pizzas,
housemade pastas, NY steak, free range chicken (left), and
more for delivery. Order by visiting the Caviar website or app.
Russian Samovar, 256 West 52nd Street,
212-757-0168; www.russiansamovar.com.
Russian dishes like borscht (below) Pelmeni Stroganoff and Chicken Kiev with creamy mashed potatoes
are part of the menu. Grimaldi’s Pizza, (1 Front Street, Brooklyn;
718-858-4300). The
restaurant has also adapted its standard cash only
protocol to temporarily accept both cash and
credit cards. Delivery service through DoorDash
also launches today, with UberEats and Grub Hub
soon to come.
http://www.tbarnyc.com/.
mixed drinks
and craft cocktails to go. Via GrubHub or by
calling the restaurant directly.
Shoji
(69 Leonard St.; 212-404-4600). Kaiseki-style
takeout with boxed sets at $80, $120
and $150. Call or email ahead for pickup at or info@69leonardstreet.com. Tamarind
(99 Hudson St.; 212-775-9000). Tribeca Indian
cuisine, with its menu
available. May order online.
Fette Sau (354 Metropolitan Ave.;
718-963-3404). Williamsburg BBQ spot. Via Seamless, Grubhub and Caviar.
For takeout/pickup, call
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
By
John Mariani HAVE A WINE
TO SELL? WANT TO BID ON A BOTTLE?
LOSE YOUR WINE CELLAR IN A FIRE?
Hiring a wine expert can ease the way
In the international wine
market fraud is far too frequent and far too
easy to get away with. It’s pretty difficult to
fake a Rembrandt or a Stradivarius, but with
high tech tools creating a bottle label for a
fake Romanée-Conti or Lafite-Rothschild is
ingrained in a business where you can’t just
pull the cork and taste its contents. So, if you
want to sell your wines at auction, or find a
special bottle for your anniversary year, the
buyer should be wary. Expert advice is crucial. Q: Give me a capsule description of
what services you can provide. Q:. How does one go
about using your services? Q: You said you engage sometimes with
insurance agencies. Please explain the
process. Q: We talked about fire damage
to wines. One report says that after the fires in
Australia, its wine industry is expecting losses
of $110 million. Please elaborate. Q: What role does provenance play in
your work? What, if any, are your guarantees? Q: Can you tell the
story about the Playboy mansion collection?
Q: What are the problems with bottles
from China? Q: Do you advise people with a few
bottles of old wines to try to auction them? What
would be a good amount to consider? Q: Beyond the obvious Bordeaux
1st growths and Burgundy grand crus, what
wines are the most sought after? Q. How do you
think the coronavirus crisis will affect the
restaurants if they re-open. ❖❖❖ NEATEST TRICK OF THE WEEK: A 17TH CENTURY FOODIE WRITES AN 1859 NOVEL "Charles Dickens,
who was surprisingly something of a 17th-century
'foodie,' was the first author to pen french fries
into literature. Dickens wrote about dozens of breakfast foods, dinner plates
and pints of beer, and included an
allusion to french fries in his 1859 novel 'A Tale
of Two Cities.'”—"20 Things You
Didn't Know About French Fries," Daily Meal.
CAN WE
GET OURS COOKED WELL DEAD? ❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences." THIS WEEK:
Eating Las Vegas
JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas
food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is
the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50
Essential Restaurants (as well as
the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
Robert Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish,
and Brian Freedman. Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html © copyright John Mariani 2020 |