MARIANI’S
Virtual Gourmet
VE Day, Brighton,
England May 8, 1945 ❖❖❖
IN THIS ISSUE WHAT I'M MISSING Part Two By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER LOVE AND PIZZA Chapter Nine By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR WHAT I'M DRINKING NOW By John Mariani ❖❖❖ WHAT I'M MISSING Part Two By John Mariani Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous, Memphis, Tennessee
Whenever I'm on the road
for more than five days I long for a home-cooked
meal, not least because my wife is an
extraordinary cook and I'm capable of burning a
few things myself. Still, after two months in
quarantine, it would be a nice change of pace to
sit down at some of my favorite places and eat my
favorite dishes not easily found made better
anywhere else.
Espresso
at Gambrinus in Naples—Gambrinus,
which is a splendid-looking 1860 emporium right
off Naples’s vast Piazza del Plebescito, didn’t
invent espresso but they have perfected it,
issuing forth from big, clanking, whooshing
machines manned by men who seem born to their
discipline. Order some biscotti, perhaps a Negroni
while you’re waiting, and you will be in
Neapolitan heaven.
The pastéis de
nata at Fábrica
de Pastéis de Belém in Lisbon—Catholic nuns created these
irresistible little cups of custard from egg
whites left over from the process of whitening
laundry sheets; they sold the recipe to Fábrica de Pastéis de
Belém in 1837. And the pasteis
are still made the same way by the thousands
every day in a warren of pretty, blue-and-white
tiled rooms. You can now find versions all over
the city—and the locals argue which has the
best—but none come with the atmosphere of the
original.
A
daiquiri at the Hemingway Bar at The Ritz Paris—Colin Field may be the most
famous barkeep in the world because he tends one of the most famous bars, named
after the American author who loved staying and
drinking at The Ritz Paris. Field is a walking
and, I suppose, shaking encyclopedia of cocktail
history and he takes enormous care to make every
drink with a surgeon’s precision, including a
perfect daiquiri. The memorabilia in the small
room are wonderful, too.
An
English breakfast at The Wolsely in London —Somerset
Maugham once said that, “to eat well in London you
must have breakfast three times a day.” That
hasn’t been true in a long time, but an English
breakfast of eggs, banger sausages, mushrooms and
tomatoes is a fine way to begin the day, and The
Wolsely is the best place to do so in London. Once
a luxury car showroom and afterwards a Barclay’s
Bank, it is one of the finest public interiors on
Piccadilly.
Risotto alla Milanese
at Al Materel in Milan—The
chubby rice used to make risotto may be arborio,
or viallone, which absorb the chicken broth ladled
onto it; combined
with saffron and Parmigiano it becomes a wavy,
creamy masterpiece to be eaten on its own, not as
a side dish, and at Al Matarel, which has been
around for decades, much care is taken with every
portion made from scratch.
Choucroute
at Le Coccinelle in Strasbourg, France—Choucroute
(right)
is a bountiful Alsatian platter of sausages,
called wursts, with steaming, wine-rich
sauerkraut to be enjoyed as much with Alsatian
beers as with Alsatian wines. Le Coccinelle in
beautiful Strasbourg serves it up with gusto, and
no one has ever left hungry. Pancakes
at Eat-Rite diner in St. Louis, Missouri—Diner
pancakes are always the best, always based on
recipes that date back to the oldest cook in the
place. Eat-Rite in St. Louis is a thick block of a
building that is spanking clean and looks like it
opened yesterday. The grill cooks work with eye to
both detail and the clock, and the pancakes are
light, fluffy and browned impeccably. Red
beans and rice at Willie Mae’s in New Orleans—New
Orleans has many iconic dishes—jambalaya, oysters
Rockefeller, gumbo and lots more—but red beans and
rice, traditionally served on Mondays—made with
the ham bone left from Sunday dinner—is as
sumptuous as any, and Willie Mae’s is a beloved
source of the Real McCoy. Barbecue at Charlie
Vergos’ Rendezvous in Memphis.—I could
name any number of favorite barbecue places of
varying styles, from North Carolina and Kentucky
to Texas and New Mexico. So the dry-rubbed ribs at
The Rendezvous is only one among many I’d kill to
eat tonight. But I have to say that Charlie
Vergos’s are unique because they are not soaked in
sauce, and I like the Rendezvous’s atmosphere
itself, which dates back to 1958 and still sits in
an alley. It just looks, and certainly smells,
right, including the business cards stapled on the
wall. You walk in, you get hit with that hardwood
smoke smell, and you’ll do anything to get your
order in fast and served with dispatch by the
friendly, veteran waiters who know you came
hungry.
❖❖❖ NEW
YORK CORNER
By
John Mariani By John Mariani LOVE AND PIZZA Since, for the time being, I am unable to write about or review New York City restaurants, I have decided instead to print a serialized version of my (unpublished) novel Love and Pizza, which takes place in New York and Italy and involves a young, beautiful Bronx woman named Nicola Santini from an Italian family impassioned about food. As the story goes on, Nicola, who is a student at Columbia University, struggles to maintain her roots while seeing a future that could lead her far from them—a future that involves a career and a love affair that would change her life forever. So, while New York’s restaurants remain closed, I will run a chapter of the Love and Pizza each week until the crisis is over. Afterwards I shall be offering the entire book digitally. I hope you like the idea and even more that you will love Nicola, her family and her friends. I’d love to know what you think. Contact me at loveandpizza123@gmail.com —John Mariani To read previous chapters go to archive (beginning with March 29, 2020, issue. LOVE AND PIZZA Cover Art By Galina Dargery © John Mariani, 2020
CHAPTER NINE
It is hardly
necessary to say that there were tears at JFK
airport when Nicola’s family—mother and
father, Natalie and Tommy—saw her off at the
Alitalia gates.
Teresa, who had not been feeling well,
could not come but had advised Nicola on the
fine points of Italian manners, telling her,
“Never drink cappuccino after breakfast” and
“Start eating the pasta as soon as you’re
served, because it’s an insult to the chef to
eat it cold.”
❖❖❖
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
7 WONDERFUL WINES FOR TOASTING MEMORIAL DAY By John Mariani
No
matter how restrictive the current pandemic, I
hope that many of us will acknowledge the
sacrifices made in other times by Americans this
Memorial Day and celebrate, with social
distancing, by drinking a good wine with which
to toast our ancestors. TABLAS
CREEK VINEYARDS ESPRIT DE TABLAS 2016
($60)—This is Tablas Creek’s flagship wine, a
Rhone-style blend of 46% Mourvèdre, 31% Syrah, 18%
Grenache and the more unusual 5% Counoise. It
turns out to be a very good mix, layered, with all
the grapes adding nuance, and there was even a
faint fizz.
Tablas’s website says, “We recommend that you drink
either 2018-2023 or again starting in 2026 any
time over the subsequent two decade,” which is fine if you
happen to be about 25 years old; otherwise it’s
ready right now for real pleasure. CHÂTEAU
DE NERVERS BROUILLY 2018 ($20)—a very
good price for a very good example of what a
little aging will do for a Beaujolais. The body is
full and shows what Brouilly is known for as a
Southern-most of the
nine crus. The estate dates back to the early 19th
century and is now 47 hectares worked by five
different winemakers. POLIZIANO
VINO NOBILE DE MONTEPULCIANO 2015
($63)—Aged for 18 months in oak, this has settled
into a wine that right now is showing fine
potential and how Vino Nobiles rank with the best,
better known,
high-end
Tuscans. The vines are 45 years old and production
is limited. It is predominantly Prugnolo Gentile
(65%) with 15% Colorino, Canaiolo and Merlot to
smooth things out. CASTELLO
DI BROLIO CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 2015
($70)—Very much a classic yet in a modern,
velvety, fruit forward style for a Chianti
Classico in the Gaiole district. Brolio’s Ricasoli
Family been
at this a very long time, so you get complexity
throughout from a mix of 90% Sangiovese, and 5%
each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. A
very good wine for grilled pork or beef
ribs. ROUTAS CÔTEAUX VAROIS EN PROVENCE
2019 ($15)—It’s getting about time I
write a summer’s rosé article, but for now I
highly recommend this charmer. Light in color,
with a rose-like aroma and very refreshing finish.
It comes from a small estate with the highest
elevation between the Aix-en-Provence and Gulf de
Saint Tropez. It has been owned since 2005 by Sir
David Murray and his family. A lovely pairing
would be with chicken salad Niçoise.
THE
WOLFTRAP 2018 ($9-$10)—For ten bucks this
is a unique wine with a bold, unusual taste that
comes from a blend of 91% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre and
1% Viognier, made by Bockenhoutskloof, South
Africa (dating to 1776 as the “ravine of the
Boekenhout”). Although it’s not super high in
alcohol (14.5%) it hits the palate like a sea wave
and fills the mouth with a tangy undercurrent.
It’s not a wine I’d drink on its own, and it’s a
rare wine I’d put up against any highly spiced
food, including Sichuan and Indian fare. Sponsored by ❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences." THIS WEEK:
Eating Las Vegas
JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas
food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is
the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50
Essential Restaurants (as well as
the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
Robert Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish,
and Brian Freedman. Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
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