MARIANI’S

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  July 12 ,  2020                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



Founded in 1996 

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W.C. Fields and Jan Duggan in You Can't Cheat an Honest Man (1939)



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IN THIS ISSUE
   WHAT'S NEXT FOR VEGAS?
By John A. Curtas

NEW YORK CORNER
LOVE AND PIZZA
Chapter Sixteen

By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE WINES OF ROCHIOLI
By John Mariani




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                WHAT’S NEXT FOR LAS VEGAS?
                                                               By John A. Curtas

 



    Assuming they’re still around a month from now, restaurants surviving this coronapocalypse will face a strange new world of fewer customers, freaked out diners, intense public health scrutiny, and a depleted workforce—all while trying to resurrect their economic lifelines and deal with supply chains in ruins. When it comes to Las Vegas, the effects of the pandemic have affected tow main sectors:  the off-Strip dining scene, which was starting to boom over the past three years;  and the Strip, with its hundreds of food outlets serving (primarily) our tourist economy. There are no crystal balls at work here, and some of my predictions are beyond obvious, but they bear reminding to brace yourself for the brave new world in eating out that's right around the corner.And for the record, it would please us no end if we are proved totally wrong on all of them. Well, almost all of them.

Fewer Diners

Everything's about to shrink: customer base, restaurant seating, booze consumption, and profits. Those people you see dancing in the streets? Bankruptcy lawyers.


Shorter menus

Every menu in America that isn't a Chick-Fil-A’s has just been cut in half. Many will stay that way. Shorter menus are great for many reasons, but mainly because you can spend less time ordering and more time worrying about that cough from four tables away.

Close tables

Cheek-by-jowl jostling with strangers over a plate of steak frites has gone from good to gauche. Huge Strip restaurants (e.g. 300-seat places, like Mon Ami Gabi) will reduce capacity and suddenly find themselves with a third fewer tables. Tiny neighborhood joints will feel the pressure too. Guess which ones will be hurt the most?  A fifty-seat mom-and-pop cracker box probably can't survive if its profit is cut in half. No word yet from epidemiologists on the disease-catching horrors lurking in back-to-back booths.

Loud and Crowded Goes Kaput

A corollary to "close tables" above. Three-deep bars and people screaming to be heard will be seen as toxic. In well-spaced, too-quiet places, expect people to start yelling across tables just for old time's sake. Baby Boomers, mostly.

Communal Tables

No one will want to dine next to strangers anymore. From now on, people will let public health doctors tell them how they should sit and socialize —in the same way we let dentists tell us what food to chew.


Buffets

Put a fork in them, they're done. Forget about sanitary masks and table-spacing— after this world-wide meltdown, no one's going to want to stand in line with hundreds of strangers while waiting to eat, much less handle a serving spoon that's been touched by fifty messy kids.
    Opposing view: Death by calories does not dissuade these eager over-eaters from their orgies of excess. The same people will be only too eager to resume shoveling All-You-Can-Eat into their pie holes, as soon as some authority figure says it's "okay." Catching a virus may have terrified them in the short-term, but government can stand only so long between a man and his third dessert.



Smaller Plates

Here's one we're on the fence about.  Will portions shrink to reflect tougher times? Or will the good old "blue plate special/meat and three" make a comeback? In other words, will gutsy food replace preciousness? One thing's for sure though, there will no longer be restaurants centered around . . .

Shared Plates

Shared plates (and/or everyone picking off a central platter) will NOT be a theme of most menus anymore. You might as well say to your friends, "Let's go infect each other over dinner." You'll now get a lot of "Ewwww" at the very thought of sharing food. If you want to eat communally, you'll have to go the Chinese banquet route. Possibly in a private room. Probably with a bureaucrat standing over your shoulder.

Tweezer Food

Can't die a moment too soon. As Julia Child once said (when looking at a nouvelle cuisine creation): "You can just tell someone's fingers have been all over it." The absurdity of molecular cuisine will perish in a sea of silly foam.

Long Tasting Menus

Once the dust settles, the one percent will start flocking back to destination restaurants. Or will they? Something tells us all the "chef's vision" malarkey— which has powered the World's 50 Best for the past decade—will henceforth be seen as decadent. Simple, local cooking with good ingredients will replace three-hour slogs through some overpraised, hipster chef's fever dream.

Linens? Sanitary or Un-?

Personally, many who dine out often long for the days of real cotton napery and tablecloths. We prefer them to wet, slimy, cold, hard surfaces where who-knows-what has been smeared. Unfortunately, it's a cinch the health departments will mandate the constant wiping down of tables, and human comfort and civilized dining will be the casualties, at least in America. We can't imagine the old-school, haute cuisine palaces of France serving dinner on bare-bones tables, although some already do. The smart set will bring their own cleaning supplies— because nothing says "night on the town" like Handi-Wipes and a personalized spray bottle.

More Plastic!

The world's fear of viral infection will make clean freaks out of everyone. And this means more single-use plastic: gloves, Styrofoam containers, take-home boxes, utensils, etc. Germaphobes will have a field day "protecting" us from cooties, even if it means ruining our long-term health and the environment. This is known in public health circles as saving your life by killing everything around you.

Sommeliers

Sad to say, but somms will be an endangered species in this new economy. Wine lists will shrink; prices will come down; and choosing a bottle will be between you and your wine app. This will save you money (on tips, too) and gallons of self-esteem by no longer being humiliated because you don’t know the difference between a Malagousia and a Moscofilero.

Wine Bars

Expect wine in general to take a hit, especially the expensive stuff. Especially in America. The health nuts will try (and fail) to turn bars into fully automated spaces with all the charm of a DMV waiting room.

Asian Food

Asian food, specifically Chinese food, will suffer. Many blame the Chinese government for this current health debacle. While the blame may be justified, this isn't fair to Chinese-Americans or Chinese restaurants in America. But fairness has no place in post-Covid society. Once the tail starts wagging the dog, don't expect the bigoted bull to go easy on the China shop.

Celebrity Chefs

Their popularity has been shrinking for a while now. Is anyone dying to go to a Bobby Flay restaurant anymore? Even if Shark in The Palms is/was pretty good? Gordon Ramsay’s shtick will start  looking even more stagey and superficial in the culture of asceticism to come. And because the cache of chefs has shrunk, Bad Boy Chefs are probably a thing of the past, too. Ditto their tattoos, and tatts on waitstaff and barkeeps as well. In this hyper-hygienic, monochromatic, new world order, anything that smacks of personal expression and pirate rituals will not be a good look when it comes to selling vittles. Imagine a world where everyone looks like super-sanitized clones, and you'll get the idea. Not sexy.

Take-out Food

Every operator thinks this whole pick-up/delivery thing is here to stay.  Doesn't matter that all food tastes better when eaten right after it's prepared. Good food doesn't travel well. Good food needs to be eaten as soon as it's done. Human beings have known this for thousands of years. But, because of this shutdown, restaurants will try in vain to prove otherwise. Eating take-out from a good restaurant is like watching a blockbuster movie on an iPhone.


Less Luxury Spending

Bottle service: dead. Ginormous nightclubs: toast. Dayclubs: history. Smaller lounge acts, showrooms, and supper clubs will be replacing them, sending Vegas straight back to 1975.




Hygiene Obsession

Will everyone have to be tested before entering? Will your waiter be wearing a mask? Will all of these ruin your enjoyment of eating out by turning restaurants into the equivalent of hospital food being served by prison guards in a boarding school mess hall? Does the Pope wear a beanie?








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NEW YORK CORNER
By John Mariani

                                                           


LOVE AND PIZZA


    Since, for the time being, I am unable to write about or review New York City restaurants, I have decided instead to print a serialized version of my (unpublished) novel Love and Pizza, which takes place in New York and Italy and  involves a young, beautiful Bronx woman named Nicola Santini from an Italian family impassioned about food.  As the story goes on, Nicola, who is a student at Columbia University, struggles to maintain her roots while seeing a future that could lead her far from them—a future that involves a career and a love affair that would change her life forever. So, while New York’s restaurants remain closed, I will run a chapter of the Love and Pizza each week until the crisis is over. Afterwards I shall be offering the entire book digitally.    I hope you like the idea and even more that you will love Nicola, her family and her friends. I’d love to know what you think. Contact me at loveandpizza123@gmail.com
—John Mariani


To read previous chapters go to archive (beginning with March 29, 2020, issue.


LOVE AND PIZZA
 
 

By John Mariani

Cover Art By Galina Dargery




    Stefania Sandrelli and Dominique Sanda in The Conformist (1970)

 

 

CHAPTER SIXTEEN

 

    Downstairs in the spacious courtyard the show was set inside a white canvas tent. Positioned around the interior were movie lights and the kind of props and technical equipment found on a movie set, including a boom microphone suspended above the runway.  Attendees were seated in folding canvas-backed chairs of the kind directors used, instead of the ubiquitous stiff gold chairs of the other shows.
    On the walls were posters of movies that featured Signora Palma’s stars—Sophia Loren in “Two Women” and “Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow”;  Gina Lollobrigida in “Flesh and the Woman” and “Come September”; Stefania Sandrelli in “Divorce Italian Style” and “The Conformist”;  Virna Lisi in “How to Murder Your Wife” (left) and “The Secret of Santa Vittoria”; and Claudia Cardinale in “8 ½” and “The Pink Panther.”
    Signora Palma had counted on it being a gray morning in Milan, so bringing down the lights inside the tent plunged the audience into brief darkness.  The designer was also counting on her belief that the audience—at least the Italians, who were all cinema buffs—could easily make the connection between the actresses and the outfits from specific movies, and those who could not could simply enjoy the show with a little less familiarity.
        Then, to the sound of the soaring violin strains of the theme from Federico Fellini’s “Amarcord,” the spotlights began scanning the tent’s ceiling as in a movie premier, then focused on the runway.  After a moment of quiet, with nerves running high backstage and the audience in a reserved state of amusement, the music from  the movie “Trapeze” began to play over the speakers and a girl appeared, with a pixie haircut and  bountiful cleavage, dressed in a shimmering gold beaded swimsuit that echoed the circus trapeze performer’s outfit in the movie. The model was smiling radiantly and it had its effect: the audience gasped or laughed or both, then applauded, suddenly recognizing the uncanny resemblance to Gina Lollobrigida—who as long ago as 1954 had been on the cover of Time magazine as the symbol of what it called “Hollywood on the Tiber.”
    Next on the catwalk was the German model, impersonating Virna Lisi in the movie “The Secret of Santa Vittoria,” wearing a highly modified red checkered peasant blouse and pleated brown wool skirt, with a printed kerchief tied artfully on the model’s blonde hair.  The dirge-like coronet and mandolin music from “Divorce Italian Style” (below) began and out walked a stunning facsimile of Stefania Sandrelli in one of the most famous bathing suits in cinema history, a tiny, strapless bikini she wore lounging on the yacht of her cuckolded new husband, played by Marcello Mastroianni.
    Signora Palma was well aware this was supposed to be a show exhibiting fall clothes, but she wanted the eye-opening value of showing swimsuits, too, which, if things and sales went well, she could have in the stores by June.
    Next would come her homage to Sophia Loren—who often attended the big shows in Milan, but not Patrizia Palma’s.  When the audience heard the music from “Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow”—not quite familiar to most—those who recognized it turned to each other and said, “It’s going to be Sophia Loren in that black bustier!” referring to a hilariously sexy striptease scene in one episode of the movie.   But instead, since Signora Palma didn’t have a lingerie line, she sent out her model in a beautifully tailored beige coat with a mink collar, which Loren wore in the episode “Anna of Milan,” as a wealthy industrialist’s wife with a lover played by Mastroianni.  The coat was an updated version of the one Christian Dior had designed for that movie segment, and the veteran fashion watchers in the audience nodded to each other knowingly that they saw the connection.
    Nicola was next up.  Her heart was pounding wildly, her hands shaky, lips slightly quivering.  Signora Palma was behind her, put her hands on her shoulders, and said, “Buona fortuna, cara,” and gave her a little push.  The first notes of Henry Mancini’s comically suspenseful theme from “The Pink Panther” played, and Nicola Santini, so very, very far from the Bronx, walked onto the runway.  From the rear she heard Signora Palma shout, “Smile, Nicola, big smile!”
    Nicola broke into a wide grin then a big smile and began walking girlishly on the runway, not shifting her hips this way and that as was then routine, but moving them easily, as young women really do when flirting.   But while the music played, the audience seemed puzzlingly quiet.  Signora Palma looked at her staff, lifted her palms and shrugged her shoulders, asking what the hell had gone wrong?
    Then, all of a sudden, the audience broke into wild applause, then shouts of “Claudia!” “La Cardinale!” “Bellisima!” and it went on for what seemed like hours to Nicola.  She was dressed in an interpretation of the actress’s stunning sequined black lace dress (right) worn in “The Pink Panther” (right) when she visited cat burglar David Niven’s hotel room, where she proceeded to drink Champagne and lie atop a tiger rug—a scene immediately recognizable to everyone in the room.
    The other models had gotten wild applause, but the acclimation for Nicola was well beyond theirs, and something like a chant of “Claudia” began as the audience clapped in unison.  Even in her terrified state, Nicola was not oblivious to what she heard, taking it more as a compliment to the actress she was portraying than to herself, as the waves of applause continued.  By the time she got to the end of the runway—always smiling, smiling—with the audience still roaring and clapping, she didn’t know quite what to do.
    And then she remembered Claudia Cardinale’s famous pout, how her lower lip would emerge from her perfect mouth, a signature look as identified with the Italian actress as a provocative wink was with Marilyn Monroe.  So Nicola stopped smiling—which actually caused a lessening of the applause—and then . . . she pouted, and the audience went crazy again.
    Signora Palma was ecstatic and told her staff,  “I knew this girl would be perfect!” then gestured for Nicola to come back.  At that moment Nicola sensed the power of her own, or Cardinale’s, very Italian appeal, the luminous smile, the darkness of the eyes, a dark complexion, a natural bust line, shapely legs and broad rounded shoulders—just about everything that distinguished her from the sallow, emaciated, empty-headed look of a thousand other models on Milan’s runways that week. 
    Was the audience’s reaction for the dress or for the model? By then it didn’t matter.  Signora Palma pushed Nicola out a few steps as many of the highly sophisticated attendees actually rose to their feet.  In the front row, editors, writers and buyers sat frantically scribbling notes in their notepads.
    But the show had only just begun: there were twenty more outfits to go,  which would include the elegant black and white silk gown and pearls worn by Sandrelli while dancing sensuously with actress Dominique Sanda in “The Conformist”; the slinky, low-cut tunic Lisi wore in “How to Murder Your Wife”; the loose print dress Loren (above) wore throughout “Two Women,” for which she received an Academy Award; and much more—skirts, blouses, coats, slacks, scarves and belts.
    Whenever Nicola appeared the applause was still loud and continuous, though by the end of the show more out of appreciation than astonishment.  After the “Pink Panther” dress, Nicola wore a printed blouse with rounded collar and a dark cardigan sweater as did the very young Cardinale in “Rocco and His Brothers”; a polka-dot shirtwaist and scarf from “8 ½”; the extraordinary white gown in the ballroom scene of “The Leopard” (right) where she danced with Alain Delon and Burt Lancaster; and the white shirtdress, headband and broad-brimmed straw hat  in the California sex farce “Don’t Make Waves” with Tony Curtis.
    Finally, the show ended, all the models dutifully came back onto the runway, followed by the designer, who received a great round of applause and a thousand “bravos!”—more than she had dared hope for in prior years.  She put her hand to her lips, failed to hold back tears, bowed slightly and blew a kiss the audience.
    Backstage everyone was bobbing up and down with elation, the models saying how much fun it had been, the stylists collapsing onto chairs, the seamstresses nodding that, si, va bene, va bene, it went pretty well.   Champagne was plucked from a small refrigerator,  foam blasted from the bottle, glasses were filled and Signora Palma stood up to speak, thanking everyone for their hard work, promising that they will all share in the line’s success.  Then, as glasses were refilled, she went over to Nicola, hugged her and said, “Bella, you know you helped save my show.” Nicola demurred, insisting it was obviously the clothes that made the show.
    “Si,” said Signora Palma, “the clothes were beautiful, but there was something molte speciale when you walk down the runway. It was la magica!  The people they fall in love with you.”
    “I think they were falling in love with Claudia Cardinale.”
    “C’e vero, cara, but you reminded them of everything they loved about Claudia, when she was young and was an Italian girl who make it very big as international star. She even make Western movies in America.  But, you listen to me: they saw something about you, Nicola Santini, they loved very much.  I hear, I see how they clap and shout.  Mio Dio, I never see this happen to a model.  Nicola, you can be a very big star, as a model, I mean. Maybe you become actress. You think about this, eh?”
    Nicola was herself beginning to tear up and her makeup began to run.
    “Ah, mia bambina,” said Signora Palma, taking out a lace handkerchief, “Look at my Cardinale now!  Ah, aspett’! This is the American Cardinale—Santini!  La Santini!”
    Nicola laughed a little and expressed her thanks for everything.
    Signora Palma said, “Is nothing. And, Nicola, I want you back this fall for my next show. I pay you to come, no worry about money.”
    Nicola smiled broadly and said, “Grazie, Signora, maybe I will.”
    “And now, Nicola, I want to invite you to my home tonight for a little dinner, just close friends.  Bring your friend—?”
    “Catherine.”
    “Si, Caterina. Bring her too.”
    “Are you sure, Signora? Catherine doesn't speak much Italian.”
    “With my friends that’s not problem. They all speak English, better than me.  I no take no for an answer.”
    Nicola assented, already beginning to worry about what to wear, asking,  “Will it be dressy?”
    “No, you wear whatever you want. When you beautiful as you, Nicola, you wear whatever you want.  Everybody will love you. Trust me. Capisce?”
    Signora Palma turned to her assistant and told him to call a driver to pick up Nicola and her friend that evening, then to Nicola said, “Okay, now I start to do business. See if I make any money this year!” And she was off to meet the buyers.
    The stylist asked Nicola if she wanted her make-up removed.  Nicola glanced in a mirror and said, “Maybe just the face, leave the eyes alone.”
    Almost miraculously, just as Nicola left the building, the clouds broke and revealed a struggling disc of sun. She noticed that some of those from the audience still milling about were turning in her direction and whispering to each other, “That one was Cardinale!”
    The odd thing about such recognitions was not that Claudia Cardinale was dead or even retired; neither were any of the other actresses: Cardinale was then only 48, Loren 51; Lollobrigida 58; Sandrelli 38, and Lisi 49.  Part of the awe was just the fun of seeing the models impersonating the actresses, but much more of it was tied to a nostalgic reverie of a Golden Age of Italian cinema when such actresses were considered goddesses on an international scale.  Patrizia Palma was well aware of that connection and had worked very hard to bring some of that faded glamour back to Italy in her collection.
    Nicola was well aware that she was not Cardinale and that she didn’t want to be regarded as anyone’s fantasy figure, even if she regarded all fashion as fantasy in some way.  And she also knew that, with Fashion Week ending the next day, she could return to her studies and go back to being Nicola Santini, the girl from Belmont who somehow had just had a very glamorous adventure. 
    The BMW was waiting for her, and as they began the drive back to her dorm, Nicola noticed it was half past twelve and that she was starving.  “Driver,” she said, “Do you know the pizzeria Paper Moon on Via Montenapoleone?”
    “Si, Signorina.”
    “Could we stop there? I want to pick up a pizza for my friends.”
    “Certo,” said the driver, making a turn in Paper Moon’s direction.
    And at that moment Nicola knew that there was nothing in the world she wanted right then as much as a good pizza.

 


©
John Mariani, 2020

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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR



   THE WINES OF ROCHIOLI
By John Mariani
Photos by Kim Carroll



                                                                                                               Joe, Jr and Tom Rochioli

 

    Whatever one thinks of the wine media’s numerical ratings, with 100 points being the highest, few wineries in California have so consistently had its wines stay in the 90-and-above ranking across the media as have those of Rochioli in the Russian River Valley.
    In fact, Rochioli was one of the pioneers in that valley. In 1978, when wine historian Leon D. Adams wrote his authoritative book Wines of America, he merely said that Russian River showed “potential as a premium wine district,” but as far back as 1959 Joe Rochioli, Sr., who’d emigrated to the valley in 1911 from Italy, and his son, Joe Rochioli, Jr., had planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc in the region. In 1968 they planted Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, first selling the grapes to Davis Bynum, and then bottling under their own Fenton Acres label. The younger Joe’s son, Tom, as winemaker, decided to put the family name on their product in 1983 and sold their first estate-bottled Rochioli Pinot Noir in 1985, which was immediately hailed the best in America by Wine Spectator.
    Tom and his wife’s trip to Burgundy gave them more ideas and inspiration as to how to produce better quality wine in the Burgundian style, while always keeping production low. I had a chance to interview Tom (via Zoom) about the current state of affairs at Rochioli and California.

 

Q: You say that your wines would be “up there” if America had a “quality rating” of vineyards. Do you think this would be a good idea and do you think it might happen? Given the USA’s vast vineyards in so many states would it be a national rating or state by state?

 

A:  If a Grand Cru system existed in America, that’s where Rochioli would be.  It would be a way to classify a great vineyard site/great wineries—if such a system existed.

 

Q: What do you think of the wine media’s numerical ratings?

 

A:  We appreciate the pat on the back for being an ‘A’ student.

 

Q: You make both single-vineyard and estate wines, and you say that the first are hand-selected from the highest quality grapes in that single lot. Then the estate wines are blended from those same vineyards. It is a little confusing because it sounds like the single-vineyard wines are from your very best grapes but that the estate wines are even better. Please expand. 

A:    Rochioli is a very diverse property—a lot of elevations, soil types.  In 1992 I identified the differences in the various sites and bottled them separately. All Rochioli wines are from estate-grown fruit.  The Pinot Noir clone is proprietary.  I select the barrels for each site to create a wine that expresses that specific vineyard.  The remaining barrels that don’t go into the SVs are what make up the Estate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  It’s not lesser quality. It is a precise blend. We take great pride in these wines.  The back label identifies which vineyards are used.   Estate wines are blended with these vineyard sites to reflect “classic Rochioli” and “classic Russian River.”

 

Q: Your family came from Lucca. Have you been back there? Do your wines in any way resemble those made in Italy?

 

A: A village outside of Lucca; I’ve been there three times.  My grandfather was born there and emigrated here. They were farm workers.  But our wines bear no resemblance to Tuscan wines.  Originally the wines there were blends, which is not our style.  We are more inspired by Burgundy.

 

Q: What was the “Italian work ethic”? 

A: When I was seven years old, I’d sweep the yard, picked prunes. Work was a matter of pride and it was considered honorable. I’m working to bring my kids up the same way. 

Q: You say that Cabernet Sauvignon did not do well back in 1959. Why do you think this was true? 

A:   It's way too cold.  Not the right climate.  There’s a lot of vigor on the Cab vines.  I really believe that Pinot  Noir has a home here in Russian River.      

Q: Re Pinot Noir, is there a style you are aiming for? Russian River produces a lot of high alcohol Pinot Noirs. What are your feelings about that idea vs the Burgundian style. 

A:   The  Rochioli style is to be not overripe, nor green. I am not a fan of plummy wines.  It’s about picking at the right time to find the right balance.  I work to get it in the middle—richness and balance are key.  You have to enjoy these wines.  It’s about balance, good acidity.  Different sites show different qualities. Winemaking is a moving target because we depend on Mother Nature. Now, with climate change, it’s not as cool as it used to be, so our harvests are earlier, but acid and pH haven’t changed much. The newer rootstocks planted may have had an effect on this, but minimal. If and when we see pH and acids changing dramatically, that’s when we would have to consider making changes. What we have seen is more Pierce’s disease bacteria and Red Blotch virus, which has no known vector but there is some speculation that these changes could be a result of the vectors preferring the warmer conditions. 

Q: How would you compare your region’s Pinot Noirs to those of the Willamette Valley? 

A: There’s no comparison really. We are different.·       

Q: While Rochioli is known for producing their own wines, you also sell grapes to some of Sonoma’s best-known producers. Can you talk about those relationships and what goes into that side of the business? 

A: These are long-term relationships we have; for instance, with William Seylem, since the late ‘70s.  Several have the Rochioli name on the bottle. We don’t look at it as theirs versus ours; we farm one way.  With Allen Vineyard’s latest replant William     suggested the clone. We are a part of a team.  It’s getting the best for everyone.   It’s a very important side of the business. It’s not about quantity. I grow the grapes as if the wines would be made by me. These vineyards are made for winemakers.  Communication is key.  We treat their sections as if they own them.

 

Q: While Rochioli is famous for Pinot Noir, you have said that making Chardonnay is the hardest of your wines to produce. Why is that?

 

A:   With Pinot Noir the process is much easier.  Chard is more labor intensive.  I don’t want to over-press.  We go straight to barrel, inoculate each barrel.  The result is worth it. Careful thought on when to go through malolactic fermentation.  Chardonnay takes the most effort, pressing the whole cluster, proper yields (low), get it into barrel immediately, individually inoculated. It’s a labor intensive process.  The hardest is to make them distinct.  It’s very much like making Grand Cru Burgundy, but in Russian River.  It’s classic, balanced, interesting, not “white bread.”  They are made to last. They age as well as any top California  chard.

 

Q: Do you have any requests to make wines that can sell for, say, $15? 

Q: $15 wine?  No, I stick to 12,000 cases; it’s all Estate. I like the lane I am in. 

 

Q: Are you worried about workers this fall for harvest?

A:  We have a crew that is anywhere from 3 years to 20-30 years.  The wineries nearby share labor.  Right now, I have the people.

 

 

 

 

 

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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

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“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             





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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences."  THIS WEEK:






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani, Robert Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish, and Brian Freedman. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2020