MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
W.C.
Fields and Jan Duggan in You Can't Cheat an Honest
Man (1939)
WHAT’S NEXT FOR LAS
VEGAS?
Assuming
they’re
still around a month from now, restaurants
surviving this
coronapocalypse will face a strange new world of
fewer customers, freaked out
diners, intense public health scrutiny, and a
depleted workforce—all while
trying to resurrect their economic lifelines and
deal with supply chains in
ruins. When
it comes to Las Vegas, the effects of the pandemic
have affected tow main sectors: the
off-Strip dining scene,
which was starting to boom over the past three
years; and the Strip, with its
hundreds of food outlets serving
(primarily) our tourist economy. There are no
crystal balls at work here, and
some of my predictions are beyond obvious, but
they bear reminding to brace
yourself for the brave new world in eating out
that's right around the
corner.And for the record, it would please us no
end if we are proved totally
wrong on all of them. Well, almost all of them. Fewer Diners Everything's
about to shrink: customer base, restaurant seating,
booze consumption, and
profits. Those people you see dancing in the
streets? Bankruptcy lawyers.
Every menu
in America that isn't a Chick-Fil-A’s has just been
cut in half. Many will stay
that way. Shorter menus are great for many reasons,
but mainly because you can
spend less time ordering and more time worrying
about that cough from four
tables away. Close tables Cheek-by-jowl
jostling
with strangers over a plate of steak frites has gone
from good to
gauche. Huge Strip restaurants (e.g.
300-seat places, like Mon Ami Gabi)
will reduce capacity and suddenly find themselves
with a third fewer tables.
Tiny neighborhood joints will feel the pressure too.
Guess which ones will be
hurt the most? A fifty-seat mom-and-pop
cracker box probably can't
survive if its profit is cut in half. No word yet
from epidemiologists on the
disease-catching horrors lurking in back-to-back
booths. Loud and Crowded
Goes Kaput A corollary
to "close tables" above. Three-deep bars and people
screaming to be
heard will be seen as toxic. In well-spaced,
too-quiet places, expect people to
start yelling across tables just for old time's
sake. Baby Boomers, mostly. Communal Tables No one will
want to dine next to strangers anymore. From now on,
people will let public
health doctors tell them how they should sit and
socialize —in the same way we
let dentists tell us what food to chew.
Put a fork
in them, they're done. Forget about sanitary masks
and table-spacing— after
this world-wide meltdown, no one's going to want to
stand in line with hundreds
of strangers while waiting to eat, much less handle
a serving spoon that's been
touched by fifty messy kids.
Smaller Plates Here's one
we're on the fence about. Will portions shrink
to reflect tougher times?
Or will the good old "blue plate special/meat
and three" make a comeback? In other words,
will gutsy food replace
preciousness? One thing's for sure though, there
will no longer be restaurants
centered around . . . Shared Plates Shared
plates (and/or everyone picking off a central
platter) will NOT be a theme of
most menus anymore. You might as well say to your
friends, "Let's go
infect each other over dinner." You'll now get a lot
of "Ewwww"
at the very thought of sharing food. If you want to
eat communally, you'll have
to go the Chinese banquet route. Possibly in a
private room. Probably with a bureaucrat standing over
your shoulder. Tweezer Food Can't die a
moment too soon. As Julia Child once said (when
looking at a nouvelle cuisine
creation): "You can just tell someone's fingers have
been all over
it." The absurdity of molecular cuisine will perish
in a sea of silly
foam. Long Tasting
Menus Once the
dust settles, the one percent will start flocking
back to destination
restaurants. Or will they? Something tells us all
the "chef's vision"
malarkey— which has powered the World's 50 Best for
the past decade—will
henceforth be seen as decadent. Simple, local
cooking with good ingredients
will replace three-hour slogs through some overpraised,
hipster chef's fever dream. Linens?
Sanitary or Un-? Personally,
many who dine out often long for the days of real
cotton napery and tablecloths. We
prefer them to wet, slimy, cold,
hard surfaces where who-knows-what has been smeared.
Unfortunately, it's a
cinch the health departments will mandate the
constant wiping down of tables,
and human comfort and civilized dining will be the
casualties, at least in
America. We can't imagine the old-school, haute
cuisine palaces of France
serving dinner on bare-bones tables, although some
already do. The smart set
will bring their own cleaning supplies— because
nothing says "night on the
town" like Handi-Wipes and a personalized spray
bottle. More Plastic! The world's
fear of viral infection will make clean freaks out
of everyone. And this means
more single-use plastic: gloves, Styrofoam
containers, take-home boxes,
utensils, etc. Germaphobes will have a field day
"protecting" us from
cooties, even if it means ruining our long-term
health and the environment.
This is known in public health circles as saving
your life by killing
everything around you. Sommeliers Sad to say,
but somms will be an
endangered species
in this new economy. Wine lists will shrink; prices
will come down; and
choosing a bottle will
be between you and your
wine
app. This will save you money (on
tips, too) and gallons of
self-esteem by no longer being humiliated because
you don’t know the difference
between a Malagousia
and a Moscofilero. Wine Bars Expect wine
in general to take a hit, especially the expensive
stuff. Especially in
America. The health nuts will try (and fail) to turn
bars into fully automated
spaces with all the charm of a DMV waiting room. Asian Food Asian food,
specifically Chinese food, will suffer. Many blame
the Chinese government for
this current health debacle. While the blame may be
justified, this isn't fair
to Chinese-Americans or Chinese restaurants in
America. But fairness has no
place in post-Covid society. Once the tail starts
wagging the dog, don't expect
the bigoted bull to go easy on the China shop. Celebrity Chefs Their popularity has been shrinking for a while now. Is anyone dying to go to a Bobby Flay restaurant anymore? Even if Shark in The Palms is/was pretty good? Gordon Ramsay’s shtick will start looking even more stagey and superficial in the culture of asceticism to come. And because the cache of chefs has shrunk, Bad Boy Chefs are probably a thing of the past, too. Ditto their tattoos, and tatts on waitstaff and barkeeps as well. In this hyper-hygienic, monochromatic, new world order, anything that smacks of personal expression and pirate rituals will not be a good look when it comes to selling vittles. Imagine a world where everyone looks like super-sanitized clones, and you'll get the idea. Not sexy. Take-out Food Every
operator thinks this whole pick-up/delivery thing is
here to stay.
Doesn't matter that all food tastes better when
eaten right after it's
prepared. Good food doesn't travel well. Good food
needs to be eaten as soon as
it's done. Human beings have known this for
thousands of years. But, because of
this shutdown, restaurants will try in vain to prove
otherwise. Eating take-out
from a good restaurant is like watching a
blockbuster movie on an iPhone.
Less Luxury
Spending Bottle
service: dead. Ginormous nightclubs: toast.
Dayclubs: history. Smaller lounge
acts, showrooms, and supper clubs will be replacing
them, sending Vegas
straight back to 1975.
Hygiene Obsession Will
everyone have to be tested before entering? Will
your waiter be wearing a mask?
Will all of these ruin your enjoyment of eating out
by turning restaurants into
the equivalent of hospital food being served by
prison guards in a boarding
school mess hall? Does the Pope wear a beanie?
❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
By
John Mariani
Stefania
Sandrelli and Dominique Sanda in The
Conformist (1970)
CHAPTER
SIXTEEN
Downstairs in the
spacious courtyard the show
was set inside a white canvas tent.
Positioned around the interior were movie
lights and the kind of props and technical
equipment found on a movie set,
including a boom microphone suspended above
the runway.
Attendees were seated in folding
canvas-backed chairs of the kind directors
used, instead of the ubiquitous
stiff gold chairs of the other shows. © John Mariani, 2020 ❖❖❖
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE
WINES OF ROCHIOLI
Joe, Jr and
Tom Rochioli
Whatever
one thinks of the wine media’s
numerical ratings, with 100 points being the
highest, few wineries in
California have so consistently had its wines
stay in the 90-and-above ranking
across the media as have those of Rochioli in
the Russian River Valley. Q: You say that your wines would be “up there” if America had a “quality rating” of vineyards. Do you think this would be a good idea and do you think it might happen? Given the USA’s vast vineyards in so many states would it be a national rating or state by state? A: If a Grand Cru system existed in America, that’s where Rochioli would be. It would be a way to classify a great vineyard site/great wineries—if such a system existed. Q: What do you think of the wine media’s numerical ratings? A: We appreciate the pat on the back for being an ‘A’ student. Q:
You make both
single-vineyard and estate wines, and you say
that the first are
hand-selected from the highest quality grapes in
that single lot. Then the
estate wines are blended from those same
vineyards. It is a little confusing
because it sounds like the single-vineyard wines
are from your very best grapes
but that the estate wines are even better.
Please expand. A: Rochioli is a very diverse property—a lot of elevations, soil types. In 1992 I identified the differences in the various sites and bottled them separately. All Rochioli wines are from estate-grown fruit. The Pinot Noir clone is proprietary. I select the barrels for each site to create a wine that expresses that specific vineyard. The remaining barrels that don’t go into the SVs are what make up the Estate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It’s not lesser quality. It is a precise blend. We take great pride in these wines. The back label identifies which vineyards are used. Estate wines are blended with these vineyard sites to reflect “classic Rochioli” and “classic Russian River.” Q: Your family came from Lucca. Have you been back there? Do your wines in any way resemble those made in Italy? A: A village outside of Lucca; I’ve been there three times. My grandfather was born there and emigrated here. They were farm workers. But our wines bear no resemblance to Tuscan wines. Originally the wines there were blends, which is not our style. We are more inspired by Burgundy.
Q: What was the “Italian work ethic”? A: When I was seven years old, I’d sweep the yard, picked prunes. Work was a matter of pride and it was considered honorable. I’m working to bring my kids up the same way. Q:
You say that
Cabernet Sauvignon did not do well back in 1959.
Why do you think
this was true? A: It's way too cold. Not the right climate. There’s a lot of vigor on the Cab vines. I really believe that Pinot Noir has a home here in Russian River. Q:
Re Pinot Noir,
is there a style you are aiming for? Russian
River produces a
lot of high alcohol Pinot Noirs. What are your
feelings about that idea vs the
Burgundian style. A:
The Rochioli style is
to be not overripe, nor green. I am not a fan
of plummy wines. It’s
about picking at the right time to find the right
balance. I work to get
it in the middle—richness and balance are
key. You have to enjoy these
wines. It’s about balance, good
acidity. Different sites show different
qualities. Winemaking is a moving target because
we depend on Mother Nature.
Now, with climate change, it’s not as cool as it
used to be, so our harvests
are earlier, but acid and pH haven’t changed much.
The newer rootstocks planted
may have had an effect on this, but minimal. If
and when we see pH and acids
changing dramatically, that’s when we would have
to consider making changes.
What we have seen is more Pierce’s disease
bacteria and Red Blotch virus, which
has no known vector but there is some speculation
that these changes could be
a result of the vectors preferring the warmer
conditions. Q:
How would you
compare your region’s Pinot Noirs to those of
the Willamette
Valley? A: There’s no comparison really. We are different.· Q:
While Rochioli
is known for producing their own wines, you also
sell grapes to
some of Sonoma’s best-known producers. Can you
talk about those relationships
and what goes into that side of the business? A: These are long-term relationships we have; for instance, with William Seylem, since the late ‘70s. Several have the Rochioli name on the bottle. We don’t look at it as theirs versus ours; we farm one way. With Allen Vineyard’s latest replant William suggested the clone. We are a part of a team. It’s getting the best for everyone. It’s a very important side of the business. It’s not about quantity. I grow the grapes as if the wines would be made by me. These vineyards are made for winemakers. Communication is key. We treat their sections as if they own them. Q: While Rochioli is famous for Pinot Noir, you have said that making Chardonnay is the hardest of your wines to produce. Why is that? A: With Pinot Noir the process is much easier. Chard is more labor intensive. I don’t want to over-press. We go straight to barrel, inoculate each barrel. The result is worth it. Careful thought on when to go through malolactic fermentation. Chardonnay takes the most effort, pressing the whole cluster, proper yields (low), get it into barrel immediately, individually inoculated. It’s a labor intensive process. The hardest is to make them distinct. It’s very much like making Grand Cru Burgundy, but in Russian River. It’s classic, balanced, interesting, not “white bread.” They are made to last. They age as well as any top California chard. Q:
Do you have any
requests to make wines that can sell for, say,
$15? Q: $15 wine? No, I stick to 12,000 cases; it’s all Estate. I like the lane I am in. Q:
Are you worried about workers this fall for
harvest? A: We have a crew that is anywhere from 3 years to 20-30 years. The wineries nearby share labor. Right now, I have the people.
❖❖❖
Sponsored by ❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences." THIS WEEK:
Eating Las Vegas
JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas
food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is
the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50
Essential Restaurants (as well as
the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
Robert Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish,
and Brian Freedman. Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html © copyright John Mariani 2020 |