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  August 16 ,  2020                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



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IN THIS ISSUE
DINING AROUND LAKE COMO
By John Mariani


NEW YORK CORNER
LOVE AND PIZZA
CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE

By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
WINES FOR LATE AUGUST
By John Mariani




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DINING AROUND LAKE COMO
By John Mariani

 

         It’s possible that everything sounds better in Italian—even “lawnmower,” which is falciatrice da prato—and there are few words that sound as beautiful as the place they describe: Lago di Como has the same lilt to it that the lake’s choppy waters do, made blue by the sky’s reflection and caressed by gently sloped mountains with the names Grgina, Resegone and Legnone on either side.
         As a resort area Lake Como is best known for stately hotels like the Grand Tremezzo, Belvedere, Villa Serbelloni and others, and at its southern end is the enchanting small city of Como (which I’ll be writing about next week). Two of the prettiest towns on the lake are Tremezzo and Bellagio, just across from each other and reachable by frequent ferries.       
       
Tremezzo, since 1947, is a commune of three towns—Tremezzo, Lenno and Mezzegra—whose most beautiful sight is the Villa Carlotta, built in the 18th century, and now open to the public, including its extraordinary garden that winds up the hillside in a seeming natural landscape, albeit one very well manicured.
         The Villa was given to Princess Charlotte of Prussia as a wedding present when she married George II, Grand Duke of Sachsen-Meiningen, in 1850, and now inside it is an impeccably restored museum, with its rooms brightly lighted by sun pouring through it huge windows. The rooms have private apartment period furniture, painted arched ceilings, musical instruments for concerts given there, and, at the moment, an exhibition of textile history that includes models of looms created by Leonardo da Vinci. Among many fine statues, there is an exquisite original cast by Canova of the Muse Terpsichore (1808) showing the marker nails used to pinpoint reference points for the marble statue to come.
         I wrote a few weeks back about the Grand Tremezzo, where I stayed and dined so elegantly, but there are a slew of little trattorias lining the shore road of Tremezzo. Up a winding road from the lake is one of my favorite trattorias in northern Italy, as quaint and rustic as might be imagined in this magical little town: La Fagurida (Via Rogaro 17; 344-40-676)
, opened in 1974.  
        Every inch of the compact place, with two dining rooms (right) and a stone terrace, indicates it is family run, from the small kitchen to the nicely set old wooden tables. It was a quiet afternoon when my wife and I arrived, serenaded by the breezes in the pines and the far-off horn of the ferry boat on the lake.
        The menu is a single page, and one notices there is no pasta on it. What there is, however, is a sumptuous polenta laced with a great amount of Lombardian bitto cheese made from both cow’s and goat’s milk, and garlic. Risotto with funghi porcini (left) was creamy and the perfect texture, the freshness of the mushrooms intense. There was a very juicy braised rabbit, and a simply cooked lorello lake fish grilled with lemon and sage.
         After dining at La Fagurida, I cannot imagine ever being in the Lake Como area without driving to this wonderful trattoria of familial authenticity and honest cooking. A three-course meal will cost less than 50 euros, including tax and service, per person.
        La Darsena (Via Regina, 3; 344 43.166
)  is a small hotel and ristorante with a large dining room and glass walls overlooking the lake. Chef Marcello serves rigorously Lombardian cuisine along with an excellent wine list. My wife and I found the food good if not exceptional. We enjoyed a large raviolo with funghi porcini, braised pork ribs, and a nicely grilled branzino with a light mayonnaise-based sauce. The dessert selection was quite good, too. A three-course meal will run about 50 euros, with tax and service.
      



 
On the eastern shore, across from Tremezzo, is Bellagio (above), strikingly built up over centuries on the hillside, with steep stone walkways at the top of which, on Via Garibaldi, is a gorgeous park and a street lined with boutiques of very fine quality, including three owned by the same family, Saraceno, each carrying different merchandise, from hand-picked fashions to bracelets and men’s clothes.
        Bellagio’s waterfront is thronged with tourists well into autumn, and most come on the ferry, have a pizza, then leave, so the mornings and late afternoons are ideal for wandering the quiet streets. There you’ll find the gated Villa Serbelloni hotel, with its long hallways, high-ceiling rooms with grand views and an oddly innovative dining room best appreciated at dinner.
        My wife and I had received many good reports on Bilacus (Salita Serbelloni 32; 31 950-480), for the last six years run by Aurelio Gandola and his family, at the top of those steep steps, so it was a pleasure to drop onto a chair in the sunny trattoria to be coddled by its amiable staff. The place gets an international tourist crowd, so the menu is printed in several languages. We enjoyed cheese ravioli with more funghi porcini, then in season, along with five fat gamberone with carrots and zucchini (right), all of it cooked at the ideal temperatures.  There is also an impressive enoteca on the premises that offers one of the region’s best wine lists, especially for Lombardian bottlings. Antipasti cost about 14 euros, Pastas run 15 and main course average 15-19 euros.





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NEW YORK CORNER
By John Mariani
                                                           

LOVE AND PIZZA

    Since, for the time being, I am unable to write about or review New York City restaurants, I have decided instead to print a serialized version of my (unpublished) novel Love and Pizza, which takes place in New York and Italy and  involves a young, beautiful Bronx woman named Nicola Santini from an Italian family impassioned about food.  As the story goes on, Nicola, who is a student at Columbia University, struggles to maintain her roots while seeing a future that could lead her far from them—a future that involves a career and a love affair that would change her life forever. So, while New York’s restaurants remain closed, I will run a chapter of the Love and Pizza each week until the crisis is over. Afterwards I shall be offering the entire book digitally.    I hope you like the idea and even more that you will love Nicola, her family and her friends. I’d love to know what you think. Contact me at loveandpizza123@gmail.com
—John Mariani


To read previous chapters go to archive (beginning with March 29, 2020, issue.

LOVE AND PIZZA
 
 

By John Mariani

Cover Art By Galina Dargery



        Giancarlo had decided to be right on time, well, closer to 8:30, and Nicola decided to be fashionably late, too.   As a matter of fact, she’d arrived earlier but held back, hiding behind one of the massive archways of the Galleria until she saw Giancarlo arrive.  Since the night was warm enough to dine al fresco, he asked for a table outside, under a white canopy.  The cameriere, who was very familiar with Il Marchese Cavallacci, unfolded his guest’s napkin and asked if he’d like to see the wine list while waiting.
        For a few moments Nicola just stood and looked at Giancarlo, impeccably dressed in a double-breasted gray flannel suit with a white button-down shirt and a thick silk tie deliberately set just a half inch askew against his collar.  Seeing that it was twenty minutes after eight, she circled back past the archway so that it seemed she was coming straight from the piazza in front of the Duomo, as the yellow moon moved out from beyond a cloud.
        He saw her coming toward him—Nicola using the nonchalant walk she had displayed on the runway, her hips slightly swaying with each step, not shifting up and down on her legs like pistons, as the other models did.  As he rose from the table, Nicola sprang her smile on him and Giancarlo feigned—or so it seemed—a small swoon.
        Ciao, Nicola,” he said, “You look so beautiful!”
        Grazie, Marchese,” she replied, fully knowing Giancarlo did not expect her to use the aristocratic title.  “What a gorgeous night!”
        “It cost me a great deal of money,” he joked, immediately cursing himself for saying something so stupid.
        The cameriere hurried over to seat Nicola but, seeing Giancarlo was already behind her, stayed back for a moment then greeted the new arrival, calling her “Signorina Santini,” as he’d been informed by Giancarlo.  He then turned and brought a bottle of spumante—not the sweet Asti Spumante made from moscato grapes but a dry version made from pinot nero grapes.  
       
“I hope you like this wine,” Giancarlo said as the cameriere popped the bottle’s cork and poured the fragrant,  frizzante wine into their glasses.  “It is made by the Giacosa winery for my family using the French méthode champenoise, so it’s more like Champagne. Salute!”
        Nicola sniffed the wine then tasted it, bringing out her broad grin. “Oh, Giancarlo, this is so delicious. It is a lot like Champagne”—remembering when her father had served the French bubbly upon the news that she’d be going to study in Italy and when Signora Palma had ordered it at Bagutta.
        “The Italians have made magnificent progress in producing excellent wines,” said Giancarlo, “and I’m proud to say many of the best are from Piemonte, where I’m from. So tonight, we drink only Piemontese wines, okay?  The wine cellar here carries all the best names—Giacosa, Gaja, Pio Cesare, Prunotto, all the best.”
        Sensing he might have too easily gone into a reverie on Italian viticulture that might bore Nicola, he said, “But, Nicola, tell me how you are feeling this week.”
        Nicola, too, feared boring her host with a dolorous description of her family’s sorrow, so she simply said, “It was difficult for a few days, but my grandmother told my family she didn’t want me to fly back to New York to watch her fade away and that it was her dream for me to be here in Italy, so ...”—she lifted her glass, “Let’s drink to mia nonna tonight! I’m sure she is looking down on us right now.”
        They clinked glasses again and both felt assured that the night would now be all theirs to enjoy and to get to know each other without the intrusion of other people.
        “So, what did you do this week, Giancarlo?” asked Nicola.
        “Nothing worth talking about. Work, work, work. Contracts. Things I needed to get away from.  The family business is strong, but my father, he is not so well and he is worried that I, as his male heir, will not want to take on all the responsibility of both the investment company and the marble company.  Or maybe he thinks I am not actually capable of doing it.”
        “Are you?”
        “I think so. I don’t know.  I went to school to learn the investment part, but I think I have more of a head and heart for the rest of the company. But that’s not the part that makes much money.  What I do know is that I am not made for the board room, which my father adores because he comes from a long line of men who love nothing more than to make a strong deal that always turns out much better for him than for his competitors. He feels he truly needs to win. I’m not quite that, well, determined, I suppose.”
        “What about your sisters?” asked Nicola.
        “Well, one is a doctor, the other is studying to be a lawyer. I think they feel relieved that they won’t be expected to hold the company together when my father dies.”
        “And your mother?”
        Giancarlo smiled. “My mother is a fascinating woman, and she is totally devoted to my father.  So,” he said, moving his hands as if he were scooping the air, “We have a lot of, shall I say, interesting discussions, and I have to fight back a little.  But, forgive me, I don’t want to speak about all that.  I want to eat and to look at you all night, Nicola.  By the way, may I ask where you got that beautiful dress?”
        “Will it come as a surprise if I tell you that I got it from Signora Palma?”
        “Ah, Signora Palma! She is an extraordinary woman, a true diva.  Neapolitan, you know. Very dramatic!”
        “I have noticed that about her.”
        “And she is an old family friend.  Her clothes are a little too stylish for my mother to wear but my sisters do.”
        Nicola ran her finger around the base of the wine glass. “Do you mind if I ask you if Signora Palma was ever married?”
        Giancarlo smiled slightly and nodded, “Yes, she was married for a long time to a very nice, very smart man who handled all the company’s finances for years.  But to make a long story short, it turned out that he led another life, as a gay man.”
        “You’re kidding!”
        “No, I’m not.  But the sad thing was that Signora Palma, who in her business had been around gay men her whole professional life, wasn’t bothered so much by his being gay.  She thought they could live civilized, separate lives within the same walls, and they did for a while.”
        “So what happened?”
        “Ah, eventually he told her he had fallen in love with a younger man and that he was moving out of her life entirely. Which he did. I don’t think they’ve seen each other in five years.”
        “That is so sad,” said Nicola.        Si, but, as you can see, La Signora is very tough, very resilient, very ... Neapolitan!  And she worked harder and got better at the business side of running the company, and she’s done very well.  Now she’s ready to conquer the world.”  Then, leaning in towards Nicola, he said, “And she’s got a new boyfriend.”
        Nicola was so happy to hear the news she asked, “Was he at the party the other night?”
        “Oh, yes,” said Giancarlo. “He was the tall Italian gentleman.”
        “Lucio? Her investor?”
        “Ah, you met him then.”
        “Wow, that’s terrific.  I’m so happy for her.”
       “Well, let’s order dinner. I’m very hungry. Are you?”
        “Starving.”
        “Do you mind if I order for the two of us? I’ve learned over the years what they do best at Savini.”
        Nicola shrugged in agreement and Giancarlo called over the cameriere and asked to see the menu.  “Do you want to look at the menu, Nicola?”
        “Sure,” opening the overlarge folio with pages of items, all without prices.
        “You like risotto alla milanese? They do it very well here. Then, if you like pigeon, they cook it perfectly, not too rare.  Then we see about dessert.”  Giancarlo brought back the waiter with a wave of his hand and ordered for the two of them, adding that he’d like a bottle of Angelo Gaja Barbaresco, saying to Nicola, “Have you had Gaja’s wines?”
        She shook her head, having little experience with Italian wines outside of the carafes she and her friends usually ordered.
        “I think you will love it.  Gaja is a magnificent revolutionary! He really challenged all his colleagues to make better wines by making different wines, and in the bargain breaking many worn-out traditions.  Now his Barbaresco is considered one of the world’s great red wines, like a Bordeaux or Burgundy cru. But you tell me what you think when we drink it.”
        There was still some spumante left, and, while waiting for the first course, they nibbled on grissini breadsticks, very thinly sliced prosciutto and warm puffy focaccia bread glossed with olive oil.
        “Oh this is so delicious,” said Nicola.
        “I’m a little surprised you eat bread. I’ve never known any model who eats bread, and most of them don't eat much pasta.”
        “Well, if I do any more modeling, I may have to stop eating both.  But I will tell you one thing, Giancarlo.”
        He looked comically intrigued, waiting for what she’d say.
        “Pizza,” she replied.  “I cannot imagine a world without pizza.”
        “Oh, I love pizza!,” said Giancarlo. “And I love the New York pizza—it’s thicker than they make it here, but, of course, Milan is not a city for pizza.  For that you have to go to Napoli.”
        “Or to a place called Bella Napoli on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx. It’s probably the best pizza in the entire city.”
        “Now that sounds like it's worth a trip to New York,” he laughed, then said, “By the way, Nicola, when do you go back to New York?”
        “Well, the plan was to finish the semester and go back in May, but I got an offer from a new American fashion magazine to do some modeling, and they said they’d fly me back during Easter week, when I’m off from school anyway.”
        “So you do want to model?”
        Nicola took a deep breath. “I’m really not sure, Giancarlo. The money is good, of course, and it seems easy, so if I have the time while I’m studying, maybe I might do something now and then.  But from the little I’ve seen and all I’ve read, it just isn’t the way I see my life going. The business just seems to rip through these girls, then discards them.”
        Nicola had in fact been thinking a lot about a once famous, dark-haired, dark-eyed Italian-American model named Gia Carangi, the daughter of an Italian restaurant owner in Philadelphia.  Gia had become a rebellious teenager, obsessed with extreme fashion and open about her bisexuality. In 1978, at the age of 17, she signed with Wilhimina Models in New York and had a meteoric rise to stardom, becoming an overnight favorite of the era’s best photographers, who put her on the cover of every important magazine within months.
         And then, at a time when fashion and the club scene conspired to kill off their young, Gia was lured into heroin addiction. Before long her needle marks needed to be airbrushed from photos.  Her beautiful face became drawn and sallow. Losing contracts and bouncing from one agency to another, she fell in and out of drug use, so that by the end of 1982 only catalog work was available to her; on her last job Gia was dismissed by a German mail-order clothing company for being stoned during the shoot.
         And so, of no further use to the industry, Gia Carangi was forgotten, and it was said that by 1985, in and out of treatment, she’d been working as a checkout clerk, then in the cafeteria of a nursing home.
         Nicola merely mentioned Gia Carangi’s name to Giancarlo and said she had no intention of ending up like her.  Giancarlo said he remembered the name vaguely as one of the top models a few years back.
         “Anyway,” said Nicola, “I haven’t the time for the foreseeable future to do even much part-time modeling much less as a full-time career.”
         “Well,” said Giancarlo, touching her hand, “I for one think you are unusually beautiful among the girls on the magazines right now.”
       At that moment, the risotto arrived and the cameriere opened the bottle of Gaja Barbaresco.  Buon appetito,” he said after allowing Giancarlo to approve the wine.
         Scented and colored by saffron, the risotto was a rich golden yellow color, its fragrance rising in the air.  The rice was creamy—what Italian cooks call “all’onda,” wave-like, and its texture was tender, almost chewy, suffused with rich chicken broth, butter, white wine and Parmigiano cheese.
         Nicola sipped the wine and nearly gasped.  “Oh my God, Giancarlo, this really is the best wine I’ve ever tasted,” she said, trying not to betray her ignorance of wines of this quality and price.  “It tastes like ... it tastes like what they must drink in paradise.”
         “Or at least on Mount Olympus, perhaps.”
         “Yes. You see so many paintings of the Greek bacchanalia. Poussin did several."
         Si, and Tintoretto, no?”
         “Oh, yes, he’s one of my favorite painters.”
         “Well, then you must go to Venice. That’s where all the best Tintorettos are.”
        
“I’d hoped to get there this semester, but time is running out.”
          “Well, maybe we could go together some time before the semester ends,” said Giancarlo, trying to make it seem like an innocent day trip. “It’s only about three hours’ drive or by train.”
         “I think I’d like that,” replied Nicola, well aware that the suggestion was not quite so innocent.

 


©
John Mariani, 2020

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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

WINES OF THE WEEK
By John Mariani

 

      Sylvia Plath called August “the odd, uneven time,” and there is certainly a hope that the worst heat of summer will be gone and the air will smell of early autumn by month’s end. For me it’s a time to rustle about the wine cellar to try bottlings I’d lost track of and so seem good options for the late days of summer.

  


 

CUVAISON ADDA PINOT NOIR 2018 ($80)— Not cheap, but this is the venerable Cuvaison’s top-of-the-line Pinot Noir in its Legacy Tier from its Los Carneros estate, and shows the experience of this winery, which was begun by fourth-generation winemakers of the Schmidheiny family, who purchased their vineyard land in 1979 and acquired 400 acres of the best terroir in Napa Valley in 1991. Since 2002, winemaker Steve Rogstad has aimed for elegance and that’s what you get in this bottle, which, while Californian in style, can compete with many fine Burgundies for finesse.

 

LE VOLTE DELL’ORNELLAIA 2018 ($35)—This is the second label of the illustrious Ornellaia estate in Tuscany, but for a lot less money you get a very applaudable approximation of its top-of-the-line wine. Estate Director Axel Heinz has always aimed for complexity in his wines, stressing a balance of fruit, spice and acid, and you’ll know on the first sip this is very much an Italian wine of good breeding. With game birds, there is none better.

 

TWO HANDS ANGEL’S SHARE SHIRAZ 2018 ($30)—Shiraz (elsewhere called Syrah) is not an easy grape to work with, or perhaps too easy if you’re just aiming for a fruit bomb with big tannins. Two Hands Angel’s Share (the name refers to the amount of wine that evaporates through the barrel into the air, and thereby is enjoyed by angels) manifests the generosity of Australian winemaking in the richness of its mid-palate flavors along with pleasing spiciness and velvety texture. The wine could certainly match with barbecued pork, but it would be heavenly with this autumn’s game like venison, quail or, if you can find it, grouse.


DOMAINE ROY & FILS YAMHILL-CARLTON ROSÉ OF PINOT NOIR 2019
($39)—My favorite roses are made from either Provençal Grenache or Oregon Pinot Noir. The 2019 vintage in Oregon’s Yamhill region was a cool one, so the aromatics were rich but refined in this fine example. Owing to the Pinot Noir it’s a deep rose color, with 13.5% alcohol, which is a little higher than most roses but it therefore has the body to go well beyond the aperitif stage and marry well with pork or  chicken this summer.  

 

FLORAL DE MELGAÇO ALVARINHO OLD VINES VINHO VERDE 2019 ($17)—Portugal’s Vinho Verdes used to be cheap, slightly fizzy, green wines that never reached above the level of warm weather drinkability. This one, however, with 13% alcohol, has a lot more complexity going for it, due to the use of old vines that have character, fresh fruit and a bracing acidity, making the wine a delicious seafood match, especially white fish like cod or halibut.

 

ANDRÉ BRUNEL CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES CUVÉE SABRINE 2016 ($20)—With a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, this village appellation wine has a lot of dark fruit and good body that is just right for drinking at this stage in its development. The concentrated flavors and soft tannins show off the blend of these two Rhône varietals at a high degree of expertise.









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Sponsored by






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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             





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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences."  THIS WEEK:






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani, Robert Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish, and Brian Freedman. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2020