MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  April 4,   2021                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



Founded in 1996 

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Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, 1958

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IN THIS ISSUE
LE BERNARDIN RE-OPENS AND SHOWS
HOW GRAND FINE DINING CAN BE
By John Mariani

CAPONE'S GOLD

By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

Wine & Food Matches: What I’ve Learned This Past Year

by Geoff Kalish


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LE BERNARDIN RE-OPENS AND SHOWS
HOW GRAND FINE DINING CAN BE

By John Mariani


 

         The re-opening of New York’s Le Bernardin is not just good news for regulars who missed chef-partner Eric Ripert’s exquisite French seafood but for anyone who worried that fine dining at the highest level could not survive the pandemic. Indeed, like the crocuses now sprouting, Le Bernardin’s return gives one a real feeling that things are returning to normal and that the world will warm again.
        On a recent visit my wife and I found that all is as it was within the elegantly appointed dining room, except for the absence of a few tables so as to meet New York’s 50% occupancy rule and social distancing. The sparkling bar lounge is not yet open, but wine director Aldo Sohm will greet you with a smile beneath a mask, and you will be brought to your table with the same grace as always by a well-trained, impeccably dressed staff. (Would that one could say the same of Le Bernardin’s male clientele, who have given up any semblance of dressing appropriately in the way the female guests still do. Alas, there are no more rules for dress left.)
       The tables are large, set with thick linens and napery. The softened butter in a small ramekin, the pretty show plates, the heavy silverware and featherweight stemware are all the same. The civilized level of sound makes conversation a joy, and the lighting is kind to everyone.
       Opened by Maguy Lecoze  and her late brother Gilbert in 1986, now co-owned with Ripert, Le Bernardin features a style of cuisine that has never changed but is always evolving. Eric Gestel is executive chef. A few dishes abide on the menu from the restaurant’s inception—including the classic seafood carpaccio that Le Bernardin pioneered and everyone since has copied.
        My wife and I actually had a reservation for her birthday exactly one year ago, then Covid came to town and Le Bernardin closed. Given the expense of running such a place, there were rumors it would never re-open, but, says Ripert, his landlord proved a blessing, and, though tough, survival was assured. We were ecstatic to find out it was going to re-open and booked a table immediately. From the day it re-opened reservations were not easy to come by, indicating that New Yorkers are very ready to return to fine dining. 
         With an apéritif of La Caravelle "Nina" non-vintage Champagne, we sampled three different breads baked on premises and enjoyed a favorite dish—layers of thinly pounded yellowfin tuna in the shape of lips atop foie gras (above) and served with a toasted baguette, chives and a gloss of olive oil; it was as beautiful as it was delicious. Striped bass was simply done with a tartare topped with shavings of black truffles and lush Périgord vinaigrette (right).
        We then drank a creamy Meursault Ballot-Millot 2018 with barely cooked sea scallop in a brown butter-dashi sauce that showed the subtle influence of Asian flavors that Le Bernardin has always included. Plump Dover sole was sautéed with toasted almonds and wild mushrooms with a soy-lime emulsion. (Don’t for a moment think that butter does not play a significant part of French seafood preparations.)
Photo: Nigel Parry

       Next came Faroe Islands salmon lightly cooked and served with a  black truffle “pot-au-feu” that proved salmon can be extremely delicate, in contrast to all the inferior, strongly fishy examples served elsewhere.
       Le Bernardin does have a cheese tray available, though we declined this time and went straight to desserts: a mille-feuille with a rhubarb-blackberry compote, caramelized puff pastry so light you’d think it could levitate and a tangy yogurt sorbet. A very old-fashioned Pavlova dessert was renewed with exotic fruit, coconut sorbet and a lemongrass-kefir lime sauce. The enhancement by fruit acids and the temperate use of sugar in Le Bernardin’s desserts is crucial to their complexity of flavor. What looked like a whole apple revealed brown butter mousse with an apple confit and a rich sabayon lashed with Armagnac,  while an Easter egg enclosed milk chocolate pot de crème with caramel foam, maple syrup and a “grain of salt.” Of course, petit-fours and chocolates were presented at meal’s end.
Photo: Nigel Parry
         We had entered Le Bernardin at twilight on an early spring evening and left around ten, when New York is usually still bustling and loud, but instead the city had a bittersweet stillness that made for a quiet trip home during which we thought about the past three hours when all seemed the way we remembered it and the way it will be again. Le Bernardin shows how that can be done and does so with the same flourish and refinement that has always been its hallmark.
      Currently Le Bernardin is open only for dinner, Monday through Saturday, and guests must leave as of  11 o’clock. (In the past people would still be coming in for dinner at ten.) Still, opening at 5 p.m.,  they can do two seatings per night.  They have not yet opened for lunch because there is no business midday. 
Photo: Nigel Parry
      And for all its elegance and excellence,  you do not pay an outrageous price, by comparison to similar restaurants elsewhere.  A four-course dinner is $180—though this does not count the little extras and petit-fours that seem inevitable—and an eight-course tasting menu
$275  or $425 with wine pairing.   

Le Bernardin is located at 155 West 51st Street; 212-554-1515; reservations also taken on line.


 



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A NEW NOVEL

    This week I begin my new novel serialization Capone's Gold. It's a crime story with two protagonists, a magazine investigative reporter named Katie Cavuto and a retired NYC Police detective named David Greco, who go in search of gold bullion stolen from the Federal Reserve in the 1930s by notorious gangster  Al Capone while he was still in prison. It's a story that takes the reader on an adventure to Capone's homes in Chicago and Florida, the Naval Academy in Annapolis and the waterfront of Naples, Italy. Along the way they discover secrets about German U-boat activity in the Caribbean, how NYC politicians and the Army worked with the Mafia and what happened to millions of dollars of gold hidden away for more than 50 years. I hope you enjoy it.



CAPONE’S GOLD

By John Mariani 

 


CHAPTER ONE


 


         In a small side chapel in the church of San Giovanni Battista in the town of Angri, south of Naples, Italy, the candles on the altar are kept lighted all day and night in remembrance of a departed soul whose name has become inextricably linked to this town in which he’d never set foot: the most notorious gangster of the 20th century, Alphonse Gabriel Capone.
         Ever since Capone’s death in 1947, at the age of 48, someone had given instructions and funding to the church in order to maintain the votive candles as a way to atone for his criminal life, perhaps allowing him to avoid an eternity in Hell by spending many years, even centuries, in Purgatory.
         Angri—not Chicago or Palm Island, Florida, where Capone spent most of his career as the most powerful crime boss in America—seems to have been chosen for the perpetual vigil because it was the birthplace of his mother, a seamstress named Teresina Raiola, and father, Gabriele Capone, who emigrated to the New York borough of Brooklyn in the 1880s.  There, in the Italian section of Williamsburg, Alphonse Gabriel Capone was born, one of nine children in the family. 
         None of Capone’s family except Teresina ever went back to visit the town of their origins, and though a few people in Angri regarded Al Capone as a kind of folk hero who rose from poverty and achieved great notoriety, his name was rarely mentioned there, and tourists who visited the town because of its distant link to the mobster were usually spurned when they asked what places of interest might be associated with the mobster, because none was. 
         Yet more than fifty years after his death, the candles—made of the finest bees’ wax—still burned in the side chapel that only a few family members knew was in memory of Al Capone.  Each morning an altar boy would trim or replace the candles in time for the seven o’clock Mass, which was never attended by more than a half dozen old women, or perhaps by a young one praying to God to allow her to become pregnant. 
         Each day and night the candles’ flames flicker and glow in the dark, smoke-stained chapel, year after year, decade after decade, like the fires of Purgatory that purified the souls of those who dwelt there.
 


        David Greco knew seven ways the New York Mafia used to kill a man besides shooting him in the head, but he himself had never used any of them while he was a rackets cop, and none of them would work on the giant hogweed that had invaded his two-acre plot of land along the Hudson River. 
        Giant hogweed was more than just a nuisance—it had been brought from Russia to the U.S. a hundred years earlier as an ornamental plant—for it had grown wild and rampant throughout the Northeast, first in forests and along roadsides, then invaded backyards as a noxious weed, growing up to fourteen feet tall and causing anyone who came in contact with it to develop blistering, scarring, even blindness.
         David Greco knew that destroying it completely was a losing battle, even after contacting the State Department of Environmental Conservation, which had for weeks promised to send someone out to assess the situation and make recommendations. No matter how much he cut down or uprooted, the grotesque weed would always creep back, choking off the life of the carefully landscaped indigenous plants and foliage.
         The frustration dogged him daily, now that he was forty-eight years old and retired from the New York City police force, where as a chief detective assigned to mob activities, he had achieved a stellar record of investigating, arresting and putting Mafiosi away to the point where, by his retirement, the mob had been severely contained. 
         Detective Greco prided himself on his slow, patient, careful, highly detailed investigations of the mob, first grabbing the low-hanging fruit in order to get the bosses at the top, by which point the only way to beat the rap was for a wise guy—the Mafia’s “made men”—to suborn a witness or threaten a jurist.  That happened a lot when Greco started out, but later on the low life members ratted out their bosses, who, even if it took two or three trials, ended up going to prison.
         Of course, David Greco knew that the mob, like the giant hogweed, could never be eliminated because it was always mutating, so that the demise of one group gave rise to another.  By the mid-‘90s the Russians and other Eastern European gangs had taken territory and picked up the slack from the Italians, and the newcomers were at least as violent and vicious. In the black and Latino neighborhoods the gangs were younger, dealing street drugs, and in constant battle with each other over turf that might span less than two or three city blocks.  Even there, the crack wars of the 1990s had burned out and killed off a lot of the suppliers and dealers.
         In any case, he was happy to be out of and far away from it all.  In the two years since he’d retired, David Greco had barely kept in touch with his old friends on the force and no longer even picked up the New York Times, Post or Daily News.  The only items on his local paper’s police blotter were arrests for D.U.I. or a rare house break-in.  Still, David Greco locked his doors.
         It was a warm summer’s day while he was ripping out  hogweed that his speaker system buzzed from the gate at the end of his property.  “What now?” he sighed, for he wasn’t expecting anyone and the delivery people knew to leave packages at the gate.
         He put down his shearing equipment, took off his thick garden gloves, and said one word into the speaker: “Yeah?”
         “Detective Greco?”
         No one had called him that in more than a year.
         “Who’s asking?” he replied.
         “My name is Katie Cavuto, and I’m the journalist who called you the other day about a possible job.”
         David Greco rolled his eyes and said, “You mean the one I told  I was retired and had no interest in?”
         “Well, yes,” stammered the woman, who recalled he had hung up the phone about three seconds later. “But I’m not looking for a security guard or anything like that.”
         There was no response, no clicking off, so she continued. “I’m a journalist and I’d like to speak to you about possibly taking on an interesting project with me.”
         “What’s it involve?”
         “Well, I can’t really explain it to you on the speaker.  May I come up for a few minutes?”
         There was no answer, but the buzzer unlatching the gate sounded, so the woman entered, walking up a gravel driveway towards the house, where she saw the retired detective walking down to meet her.  She stuck out her hand but David Greco raised his.
         “Sorry, but if we shake hands you might get some of the toxin from the plant I’ve been trying to root out.”
         “Oh, what is it, giant hogweed?”
         “Matter of fact it is.  You familiar with it?”
         “A little.  My parents have it growing in their backyard, and it’s driving them crazy.”
         “It’s very nasty stuff.”
         There was an awkward pause, then David Greco asked, “So, what’s this project you want to talk to me about?”
         “Well, as I said, I’m a journalist, mostly for magazines, and one of the ones I write for—McClure’s—has asked me to write an article about Al Capone’s lost fortune.”
         “You mean his theft of gold bullion no one’s been able to find for fifty years?”
         “Oh, so you know about it?”
         “A little.”
         “Well, then you also probably know that the Treasury Department and the F.B.I. have had a longstanding offer of $300,000 for any information that leads to its discovery.”
         “And this magazine—what’s it called? McClure’s?—thinks that you may succeed where everyone else has failed so far over the last fifty years?”    
         Katie Cavuto smiled and said, “Actually, they don’t really expect that I can find it, but they think the story itself would be a good one.  Nobody’s written anything about it in decades, but there has been some new archival material on Al Capone and the mob that might make for an exciting story.  As a matter of fact, I’ve done some spadework and turned up some interesting stuff.”
         “Like what?”
         “I wouldn’t be much of a journalist if I told you, unless you agreed to help me.”
         David Greco snickered and said, “Y’know, I think I liked you people better when you called yourselves reporters, rather than journalists.”
         Katie Cavuto countered, “Oh, I’m sure you never had a real high regard for reporters either in your line of work.”
         “Usually they get in the way of an investigation, always quoting `high-placed sources’ when they didn’t have any and printing complete bullshit when they had nothing at all.  And, obviously, they were all more interested in the bad guys, how much money they had, how much power they had, how many guys they’d rubbed out, rather than write about the work the police had to do to arrest and convict them.”
         “I can imagine.”
         “What I really love about you . . . journalists,” he said sarcastically, “is that unless a cop is either working undercover to root out police corruption or infiltrating the mob, you ignore us, never mention the guys who do all the dirty work, then you just quote the police commissioner in your last paragraph.”
         Katie Cavuto tried to keep calm, saying, “I feel your pain, Detective Greco, but that’s as much the fault of the police press office as it is the writer of the story. They control all the access.”
         “Fair enough,” said David Greco. “And frankly, after twenty years on the force, the last thing I want to see again is my name in the paper.  Such exposure ruins you for the job when you believe your own press.  Makes you crave it.”
         “You certainly had your share.”
         “More than I could justify or handle. But, anyhow, so you want to interview me about Capone—who died thirty years before I joined the force?  My interest in the bum was only incidental to knowing the history of the mobs in New York, where, by the way, Capone never really operated beyond a short stint as a lowlife bouncer.”
         “No,” said Katie Cavuto, feeling the quick display of a retired cop’s humility had run its course, “I want you to help me throughout my entire investigation of the story, and the magazine is willing to pay you for your time.”
         “Let me get this straight: you want me to traipse all over the place with you on a wild goose chase for Capone’s gold bullion? What’s the fee?”
         “Well, I figure the story will take about six weeks to complete—at least the research part before I write it—and for that the magazine is willing to pay you between $10,000 and $15,000.”
         David Greco tried to stifle his surprise, saying, “The money sounds good, but what about expenses?”
         “They’re all taken care of, too, wherever we have to go, Chicago, Florida, wherever.  We go where the leads take us.”
         “And, if in the unlikely event we actually find where Capone’s gold is hidden, who gets the $300,000?”
         “That’s the really interesting part of the offer, at least for you: If we find the gold, the reward will be split two ways. The magazine claims two-thirds of the money and gives it to charity, and you get the other third.  I can’t take it as a journalist, because it wouldn’t be ethical.”
         This time David Greco could not stifle a low whistle. “So you’re saying you don’t get a penny from the reward and I get a hundred grand?”
         “I’ll get paid a very handsome fee for the article and my reputation as a journalist would soar.  Who knows, Pulitzer Prize?  Maybe be appointed head of a newspaper’s investigative unit.”
         “Or a job on ‘Entertainment Tonight’? Sorry, that was a cheap shot.”
         “Yeah, it was,” said Katie Cavuto, knowing she had the advantage for a moment.
         “Sounds like you don’t really need the money.”
         “Anyone can use $100,000, but it’s out of my hands.  I’m going into this with an eye on my future.”
         David Greco went quiet for a moment, then said, “Miss Cavuto . . .”
         “Katie.”
         “Okay, Katie. I’m going to go inside and give my hands a good scrubbing, then I’m coming back out here to shake yours.”

 




©
John Mariani, 2015

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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


Wine & Food Matches:
What I’ve Learned This Past Year

By Geoff Kalish


      Surprisingly, while many groups and publications rate wine on various scales (stars, 1-100, etc.), ratings for wine and food matches by numbers, stars, etc. are sparse.  This is quite curious as very few wines are meant to be drunk without food; in fact in Italy and some other countries many people consider wine as food (and for a number of reasons it’s much healthier to consume wine with food, but that’s a discussion for another day) . But it’s been my experience that most wine ratings are formed by professionals at tastings in which sips of wine after wine are consumed, rarely with more than crackers or water. And in my opinion rating wines in a vacuum without food and then proposing what foods they match with seems more like hocus-pocus than anything close to science.
      So, to see if traditional thinking about what wine to drink with what fare is relevant or folly, during the past year I’ve experimented with my choices and kept written notes on my findings. Of course, this was made possible because since the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic we’ve eaten almost all our meals at home and accompanied dinner with wine most evenings, both newly purchased and from the cellar. I’ve also developed a simple scale for rating wine and food combinations: E.A.T. (Excellent, Average, Terrible). Therefore, for those who think they know everything about wine and food matches, and for those just learning, the following are some interesting findings and insights.


  Well-aged wines aren’t necessarily better with food than young ones. In fact, many reds older than 30 years from vintage date (even well-stored bottles) seemed washed-out or bitter and had the taste of dried-out fruit with even simple fare. In addition, very old Burgundies took on a leathery taste, which some critics seem to prize. However, how many foods go well with the flavor of leather? And what tastes good with dried-out fruit? Maybe some cheeses, but we haven’t found them. So, in general, I rate the taste of very old wines (other than so called “dessert wines,” like Port and late harvest Rieslings) with almost all fare as a T (terrible). Moreover, we found that almost all very old dry whites (15 years or more from vintage date) tended to show oxidation, and/or unpleasant herbal tones and even “barnyard odors,” no matter how well stored; also rated T.  


   Of course, there are exceptions to every rule and of the many bottles of red over 30 years old (including multiple examples from France, Spain, Portugal, Italy and the U.S.), we found that a 1985 Domaine Dominique Guyon Hautes Côtes de Nuits “Cuvée des Dames de Vergy” that still showed some hints of cherries and plums and mated fairly well with roasted chicken. And an older Bordeaux, like a 1986 Cos d’Estournel, mated reasonably well (score A) with grilled red snapper as well as with beef and lamb (A+). But as to great, memorable matches, maybe there are some, but we haven’t found them. So why drink very old wines with a meal and decrease its enjoyment? 


  So why do we continue to age wines for long periods of time? Some feel it’s an intellectual endeavor to study the aesthetics of the beverage in the glass. I suppose that’s OK, but if you are eating along with drinking the wine—which one should do to slow down the alcohol absorption and its effect on the body—stick to younger wines, say reds less that 8-10 years old and whites under 5 years from the vintage date.                                                                                                            



● Another finding was that while traditional wisdom suggests that  Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines don’t mate well with mild fish, we’ve found that many such wines go well with mild-flavored fish. For example, a 2014 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon went swimmingly well with grilled branzino, earning an E. No wonder that this wine, not generally garnering the highest rating from critics, is one of the top selling bottles in restaurants that carry it.  On the other hand, as expected, almost all white wines made awful matches with beef and lamb (T), with the only exception being Gewürztraminer, with one from Warwick Valley in New York State and another from Ribeauville in Alsace mating well, but not perfectly, with lamb burgers (A +) and veal Marsala (A+).  


   Also, we found that rather young and fruity Beaujolais (except most Beaujolais Nouveaux) went well with almost everything.  For example, a 2019 Coudert Fleurie Cuvée Christie and a 2019 Château Thivin from Côte de Brouilly, both with a bouquet and taste of ripe plums, melons and cassis, married harmoniously with a range of fare running the gamut from turkey to veal to pasta with red or white sauce to swordfish and even shrimp scampi, all garnering an E rating.


  And finally, we found that very sweet dessert wines were at their worst with sweet desserts (T). In fact, they’re best with aged cheeses. For example: a California late-harvest Riesling tasted cloyingly sweet with a “black-and-white” cookie (T)  as well as a baked apple (T), but made an E grade with a “Seriously Sharp Cheddar” from Cabot Creamery in Vermont, as well as a cave-aged cheddar from Bobolink Dairy in Milford, N.J. On the other hand, a Recioto della Valpolicella from Serego Alighieri that had good acidity as well as a moderate amount of sweetness mated well (A) with the cookie and baked apple (A), as well as the cheese. It also paired surprisingly well (A+) with fare that incorporated tomato-based sauces like pizza, pasta and Turkish eggplant.  And, of course, there’s the question as to whether dessert wine is served before or after dessert or is it dessert itself. We found that it’s best served with the “right” dessert, not as a preamble or after-thought.

 

 



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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             





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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences."  THIS WEEK:






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani, Robert Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish, and Brian Freedman. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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