On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. May 19 at 11AM EST,I will be interviewing  Lynn DiMenna, chanteuse and authority on cabaret, who will be speaking about male singers of the 1950s. Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.

On Wednesday May 19 on Celebrating Act 2, I will be talking about "How Not to Get Sick While Traveling."

       It’s a reasonable question to ask why, since all cheeses are made from the same ingredients—cow, ewe or goat’s milk—are there such myriad differences among the thousands of types from so many countries.  To find out why Parmigiano Reggiano is un-reproducible anywhere but around Parma, I asked Nicola Bertinelli  (left), a producer and President of the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium, about the cheese’s uniqueness.

 

What are the elements that make Parmigiano Reggiano cheese unique and unreproducible anywhere else in Italy?

      Culture and tradition strongly bind Parmigiano Reggiano to its area of origin, ensuring that it cannot be manufactured anywhere else in the world, even if the exact same production techniques are used. It is first and foremost a microbiological characteristic that binds Parmigiano Reggiano to its area of origin that includes the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and Bologna to the left of the River Reno, and in Mantua to the right of the River Po.
      Only raw milk produced in this area is used to make Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. It is a special milk, characterized by a unique and intense bacterial activity of the local microbial flora, influenced by environmental factors, especially by the forage, grass and hay from the area that account for the main feed of the cows dedicated to this specific production. Furthermore, no additives are used to make Parmigiano Reggiano. This means that during the production process there are no external actions (for example no addition of enzymatic additives or bacteria selected in a laboratory) to change the activity of the bacteria that are naturally found in the raw milk produced by the farms in the area of origin. The cheese master is the only one who can enhance and flavor the lactic bacteria that operate the positive lactic fermentations that are expected for the success of the cheese-making process.
      Parmigiano Reggiano is also irreproducible for the simple fact that it has been produced for a thousand years and no one has been able to copy it. Only imitations, which turned out very badly. This is the strongest evidence. Think of the Scottish Whisky; in Japan, starting from scratch, they have managed to produce a comparable product. Mercedes-Benz was the top, and today the most acclaimed automotive brand is Tesla. But in 1,000 years of history in hard cheeses this has not happened with Parmigiano Reggiano, and this is the best demonstration that it is unique.

 

How does Grana Padama differ?
 

      I am going to summarize the main differences for you in seven points:

•        Production in 5 provinces

The production area of Parmigiano Reggiano is more localized. By contrast, Grana Padano can be produced from farms located in 33 provinces between Lombardy, Veneto, Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Trentino Alto Adige (limited to the province of Trento and some municipalities in the province of Bolzano).

•        No additives

Parmigiano Reggiano is made with no additives and its production specifications also prohibit the use of natural additives. However, Grana Padano allows the use of lysozyme, a protein extracted from hen’s egg white, to control unwanted fermentation.

•        Only hay and grass

To make Parmigiano Reggiano, cows are exclusively fed hay and grass (alfalfa and stable meadows), without using silage or fermented forage. Grana Padano allows the use of silage in the feed.

•        Minimum and average maturation

The minimum maturation period for Parmigiano Reggiano is 12 months and, although the average maturation period is 24 months, the cheese can be matured for much longer—30 months and beyond. Grana Padano is marked at 9 months and on average consumed at 15 months.

•        Only natural fermented whey

Parmigiano Reggiano dairies exclusively use natural fermented whey as a bacterial starter to boost the microbiological process. Grana Padano allows the use of lactic bacteria isolated in a laboratory from dairies’ natural fermented whey, albeit this is limited to 12 times per year.

•        Quality inspection

Parmigiano Reggiano boasts a 100% quality-control rate as the selection carried out by the Consortium during quality inspection (suitability assessment) at 12 months is performed on every single wheel. For Grana Padano, such a selection only occurs at 9 months and only on some wheels.

•        Dairies and annual production

In 2019, 3,754,192 wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano were produced in 321 dairies, while 5,164,59 wheels of Grana Padano were produced in 128 dairies.  Last but not least, the price of milk for Parmigiano Reggiano cost on average 35-45% more than Grana Padano. This data simply reflects the consumer's willingness to pay a higher price as a summary of the points of distinctiveness listed. If the differences listed were not important to the consumer, they would not be willing to pay such a higher price for Parmigiano Reggiano.

Has Parmigiano Reggiano production increased a great deal in the past decade? Is the supply unlimited?

     The cattle producing milk intended for the production of Parmigiano Reggiano follow a specific diet. The specifications set out that forage should mostly be procured locally, with at least 50% of the forage being grown by the dairy farm, and at least 75% should be grown within the production area. The area of origin has a surface of approximately 3,861 square miles, and therefore there is an intrinsic limit to the Parmigiano Reggiano production but, given the surfaces, there is still an area of significant potential growth.

What makes one wheel Parmigiano Reggiano better than another?

     Every wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano is quality tested at an age of about 12 months. Any wheels that don’t meet the quality requirements of the Consortium descend into total anonymity: after the hammer test (below), they are "bleached," that is, the characteristic dots impressed on the rind are mechanically removed. There is no such thing as “second-rate” Parmigiano Reggiano. Either the cheese is worthy of the name, or it simply cannot be called Parmigiano Reggiano.

     But, of course, every wheel is different from another. If  it is a “young” Parmigiano Reggiano of 12 months, it will be delicate, with hints of milk, yogurt and fresh fruit (perfect for enriching salads and it combines perfectly with a sparkling white wine); a 36-month-old cheese, on the other hand, has a stronger flavor, with notes of spices, nuts and meat stock, and is the ideal ingredient in stuffed pastas, or to be enjoyed at the end of a meal with fruit and honey, paired with a complex wine, a good Marsala or even a Trentino Grappa. And it’s not just a question of maturation stages, but of cow breeds as well. There is the Modena White Cow, the Reggiana Red Cow, the Brown Cow and the Italian Friesian. Just as there are “certified” products that meet all kinds of needs: from Mountain product to Kosher, Halal and Organic.

How important is the length of aging? How much is probably too long?

      The minimum maturation period is 12 months, but Parmigiano Reggiano reaches a degree of maturation that fully expresses its typical characteristics at approximately 24 months. It can mature up to 40, 50 months or longer, acquiring unexpected and unparalleled flavors and aromas. In maturation, thanks to the action of the enzymes released by lactic bacteria, proteins are broken down into smaller pieces, free peptides and amino acids, the basic bricks of the protein chain. This action of protein breakdown (proteolysis) determines the structure and sensory properties of Parmigiano Reggiano and its high digestibility. The different degrees of maturation give rise to varying aromatic sensations and make it particularly versatile in the kitchen and suitable for several preparations and pairings.
      When tasting a sliver of Parmigiano Reggiano, one cannot ignore that the complexity of its aromas and tastes are not only due to the cow feed and processing of the milk, but also to the long maturation period. The proteolysis and lipolysis processes that occur inside each wheel of cheese reflect the changing temperature and humidity levels of the seasons, enabling the cheese to develop an increasingly pronounced, complete, and complex character over time. Consequently, the sensory characteristics of Parmigiano Reggiano are constantly evolving, which is why different ages of the cheese stimulate the taster’s senses differently.

 

Is it true that Parmigiano Reggiano should be cut with a spade-like utensil, not a knife blade?

      Yes, when the cheese is served during a social situation, it is best chunked with the classic almond-shaped knife, which will enhance the characteristic graininess of Parmigiano Reggiano.

How has climate change affected the region?

     Parmigiano Reggiano is the product of an extraordinary and exclusive link with the environment. Under a centuries-old agreement, the Parmigiano Reggiano farmers and master cheese-makers restore the rightful care and passion to this land, becoming the source of life, work, loyalty and the memory of a great tradition. The name itself, Parmigiano Reggiano, sums up the exclusive link with the land that gives rise to this product.
     For all these reasons, climate change is of great concern to us. Water scarcity and global warming are advancing, putting our supply chain of 310 dairies and over 50,000 workers at risk. If something were to alter the balance of our ecosystem, if the good bacteria that have lived here for thousands of years were to disappear, that link with the territory that makes Parmigiano Reggiano a product with Geographical Indication would be missing.
 

Is grating Parmigiano Reggiano doing it a disservice? Since it is expensive, why should I grate Parmigiano Reggiano rather than pecorino or Grana?
 

     More than a matter of price, it is a question of taste. Each cheese has its own personality and their use is quite codified in the Italian regional cuisine. The first time many of us tasted Parmigiano Reggiano it was grated. And it's incredibly good, right?

     That said, the key to the success of Parmigiano Reggiano is its versatility. Parmigiano Reggiano is used in the kitchen not just for the traditional “sprinkling” over first courses, but also to give a touch of character to meat, fish and even desserts. This is the reason why Parmigiano Reggiano is found in every country in the world, with an export share that grows every year and has already exceeded the goal of 44%. You can be daring with Parmigiano Reggiano!
 

Thirty years ago the US was not getting the best Parmigiano Reggiano. What changed?
 

     I believe it is a combination of various factors. On the one hand, consumers have evolved and today they know how to appreciate the product more. On the other hand, there are more cheeses to offer with the different maturations and biodiversity, increasing the chances of finding a Parmigiano Reggiano suitable for everyone’s taste.
     In addition, the Consortium has educated store managers on product conservation. I take this opportunity to remind you that Parmigiano Reggiano should be kept in the refrigerator and removed some time before tasting so that it reaches a temperature of 61°F.

What percentage of Parmigiano Reggiano is now exported and how much to the US?

     The Parmigiano Reggiano market is becoming ever more international. The export share is 44% (+10.7% of volume growth vs. previous year). The United States is the first market (20% of overall export, roughly 12,000 tons), followed by France (19%), Germany (18%), the United Kingdom (13%) and Canada (5%).

Are there any recipes for cooking with Parmigiano Reggiano?

     There are plenty of recipes for cooking with Parmigiano Reggiano on parmigianoreggiano.us. Since spring is coming, I recommend an easy one for an outdoor aperitif with friends.

What do you see happening in the next five years?

     Looking ahead to the future, supply chain and product protection are the focus for the coming years. Animal welfare and product typicality have always been an essential pillar of the Consortium’s strategy. In the 2021 budget, the Board of Directors has foreseen a first three-year 2021/23 investment of approximately 10 million euros to promote virtuous behavior of the farms in the supply chain aimed at improving animal welfare standards in the individual supply chains of the dairy farms.     The Consortium estimates that the turnover of fake parmesan outside the European Union (from Brazilian parmesao to Argentine reggianito,  spread across all continents) is 2 billion euros, about 200,000 tons of product, or 15 times the volume of Parmigiano Reggiano exported. Even to this day, too many consumers outside the EU still buy generic cheeses believing they are buying the original PDO product. The Consortium will always be at the forefront in the fight against Italian sounding products.

Italian wine laws have become something of a joke by awarding so many DOC and DOCGs to so many wines. How do the producers of Parmigiano Reggiano keep this from happening?
 

     I believe that there is a real vocation for the production of Parmigiano Reggiano in our lands. We are aware that the reason why our product has become, over the centuries, an authentic expression of Made in Italy agribusiness is because we have always been faithful to our principles. Parmigiano Reggiano indeed is essentially produced about nine centuries ago: using the same ingredients (milk, salt and rennet), with the same craftsmanship and production technique that has undergone very few changes over the centuries, thanks to the decision to keep a fully natural production.
     The quality of Parmigiano Reggiano is guaranteed by the Consortium, the protection body that includes all Parmigiano Reggiano producers, who process the milk from the farmers of the area of origin into this PDO cheese complying with the specifications. It was established in 1934 to protect, defend, and promote Parmigiano Reggiano, safeguarding its uniqueness and spreading awareness of the cheese worldwide.

What are the best wines with Parmigiano Reggiano?
 

     The different degrees of maturation give rise to varying aromatic sensations and make it particularly versatile in the kitchen and suitable for several preparations and pairings. “Fresh” Parmigiano of 12-18 months can be accompanied by a dry white wine with good acidity, such as Vernaccia di San Gimignano or a bottle-fermented sparkling wine, such as Franciacorta, Trento Classico or Champagne. At 24 months of age, Parmigiano Reggiano can be combined with red wines of varying structure such as Sangiovese di Romagna, Gutturnio or Chianti Classico. A 36 months goes extremely well with red wines of body and structure (for example Barolo, Barbaresco or Brunello di Montalcino) and with white raisin wines (such as Albana di Romagna) or meditation wines.

 

What are the nutritional benefits?

     Made with only milk, salt, and rennet, Parmigiano Reggiano is naturally lactose free with no additives or preservatives and it’s also a source of phosphorous and rich in calcium. This makes it ideal for everyone, from children to the elderly. The milk used to make this world-renowned cheese also never undergoes heat treatment, therefore it features all the richness of lactic ferments naturally present in it.

                                                                                                                                                 ❖❖❖

NEW YORK CORNER

                                          SALINAS TEN YEARS LATER

        Now a decade in business and having gotten through the pandemic, Salinas in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood has been the city’s premier Spanish restaurant, not least because of the dogged presence and dedication of chef-owner Luis Bollo, who is as boyish looking as when I first met him back in 2000, when he and partner Ignacio Blanco ran Meigas in TriBeCa. That restaurant, which I praised as one of the 20 Best New Restaurants of the Year in Esquire, had to close in the aftermath of damage on 9/11, but I picked up his trail in New Haven, where he and Blanco ran Ibiza.

        The two men parted at some point, with Blanco opening an Ibiza in Chappaqua (which I reviewed in April) and Bollo setting up shop at Salinas, which also made my Esquire list. Since then I have always regarded Salinas as among the restaurants I most look forward to returning to, not only because I know the food will be consistently good, but because Bollo is constantly inventing new, tantalizing dishes to try. The menu has always leaned towards the tapas style of Spain, particularly that of San Sebastián, but goes much further than most in using the best seasonal ingredients from all over. Early on, at Meigas, he incorporated some of Ferran Adria’s modernist ideas about Spanish food but abandoned all of the excrescences of that promotional style. Now his food is more rustic, but wonderfully conceived and beautifully presented.       
          Salinas is composed of a long bar and lounge with a gaily lighted rear dining room with brick walls and an enclosed patio beyond. At the moment, just as New York is at 75% occupancy, a lone, fast-on-his-feet waiter is taking care of all the tables with remarkable agility and cordiality.
        As I always do at Salinas, I put myself in Bollo’s hands and asked him to make me some old and some new dishes. Actually, that’s the best way to go because at the moment the printed menu does not begin to hint at the nightly specials of new dishes you’ll want to try. We began with crispy Kennebec potatoes bravas with shaved Iberico ham and a spicy beef tartare.         
      Every tapas bar in Spain serves croquettes, which Bollo stuffs with short ribs and hard-boiled egg, set with striped bass sashimi and yuzu marmalade—not the kind of item you’d easily find at a counter in San Sebastian.     
  Variously colored cauliflower was flash-fried and dashed with creamy yogurt, tangy citrus zest and shavings of bottarga roe. Alcachofas crujientes are crispy artichoke hearts, beets, capers and Spanish goat cheese with preserved lemon aïoli. One of the dishes that has become a long-time favorite at Salinas for good reason is Bollo’s popcorn-crusted Galician octopus in a dark squid ink aïoli, enriched with a preserved lemon emulsion.
       The European bass called lubina was pan-seared to perfect succulence and came with a springtime bounty of  peas, la Granja beans, hojiblanca olive oil and mint broth.  I adore the Carabineros ruby red Spanish prawns for their sweetness, here served with pistachio picada gratinate.  One of the pleasures of Iberian cookery is called fideo, a kind of angel’s hair pasta, here toasted and served with spicy chorizo sausage, clams, chicken, fava beans and a lustrous saffron aïoli.
      The problem with tapas is that it’s hard to stop ordering more, but don’t neglect dessert at Salinas, like the Vasco cheesecake or the Basque “burnt cheesecake” or the brioche bread pudding with passion fruit, double cream and orange marmalade.
       I was surprised to find that Salinas’s wine list, while composed of many fine examples of modern Spanish viniculture, is nearly bereft of any bottles under $100. But they make a delicious sangria by the half or full liter, and of course Spanish beer and cider go well with this food.
       Salinas’s boast is that it is “authentic Spanish cuisine,” and while that is very true and the flavors of Spain are in every dish, Bollo is making a very personalized style of Iberian flavors. It is very exciting and very satisfying.

Tapas prices range from $9 to $16, rice dishes $24-$29 and large plates $25-$30. 

 

 

CHAPTER SEVEN


 

 

BREAK OUT THESE WINES AND SPIRITS WHEN
YOU PULL OUT THE GRILL
By John Mariani

With warmer weather in the offing, cold weather parts of the country will start sprouting outdoor grills. Here are some wines, and one Mezcal, that will go very well with what’s on the charcoals. 

 

Brancott Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($12)—Too many New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs taste like fruit punch, but this is more restrained by what Brancott calls “gentle bag pressing to achieve fresh, elegant juice.” Elegant or not, this is a fine cool climate white wine in a year whose weather prevented any disease from developing in the vineyards. With 13% alcohol you can drink it with pretty much anything but red meat all summer long.

 

Justin Sauvignon Blanc Central Coast 2020 ($16)—An excellent price for an excellent California Sauvignon Blanc that does not express too much grassiness and instead has a rounded and very full flavor.  At 13.5% alcohol it is congenial to drink but is distinguished by its varietal flavor.  I can’t think of anything better than this wine with goat’s cheese in any form, including gently set on the grill to get creamy or with a salad that does not have too much vinegar.

Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel 2018  ( $38) —Winemaker Todd Graff added a touch of Petite Sirah to the big-bodied Zinfandel and aged the wine for 16 months in 33% new and 67% used French oak barrels. The grapes are from Capell Valley east of the Vaca Mountains, Titus Vineyards in St. Helena and Nissen Vineyard in Calistoga, where old-vine Zinfandel dates back to 1950s. This is a ravishing zin, lots of fruit and ballast in the finish. The alcohol is high but you expect that, so savor this was a charcoal-seared sirloin.

 

Siduri Chardonnay 2019 ($25)—Another refined example of Willamette Valley terroir, showing that a cool climate is kind to grapes like Chardonnay that can be so easily manipulated. It spent 10 months in 25% new French oak, which gives it just enough of a sweet undertone and maintains a good balance of acid. This is the ideal white wine for grilled salmon and almost every shellfish.

 

Laetitia Estate Chardonnay 2019 ($22)—Very high-quality at a modest price for this first-rate Chardonnay from the Arroyo Grande Valley. It has youth on its side and will show well this summer with appetizers like clams, crab and oysters. The vineyards are only 3 miles from the Pacific ocean and that cooling wind has a very positive effect on the grapes.

 

Chandon Brut ($24.50)—Chandon calls this their “go to” California sparkling wine, which seems a bit modest except that you really could drink this on a regular basis throughout the summer as a fine apéritif. It has just the right balance of fruit, sugar, acid and bubbles to carry you through an entire meal and serve it with cheeses also.

 

Il Conte Villa Prandone Lu Kont Rosso 2016 ($35)—The wines of the Marche region in Eastern Italy are neither well-known nor much exported because they didn’t used to have that much to offer outside of the region itself. This is changing and Il Conte Villa Prandone is showing that they can compete with the better wines of Abruzzo, Puglia and southern Italy. It’s a little expensive but it’s a very fine red and it’s delicious with grilled chicken or pork.

 

Domaine Faiveley Mercurey Clos Rochette 2018 ($35)—Faiveley has achieved a fine balance between maintaining tradition and being in the forefront of French regional winemaking. Clos Rochette is an 11-acre monopole of the domain with very rocky, clay-rich soil with some lime stone and gravel. The vines date back to 1960, and the resulting wines spend 10 to 12 months in stainless steel, which preserves their freshness and fruit. Wines of Mercurey in the Burgundy region tend to be early maturing, so this is really ready to drink right now.

 

Forte Masso Barolo Castelletto 2015 ($70)—This is one of the most delicious Barolos I have tasted this spring and, even though it’s a bit high in alcohol, the layers of flavors impressed me, especially for its distinct flavor of the Nebbiolo grape in Piedmont. Perfect with lamb grilled over a fire.

 

Lassègue Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2017 ($60)—I like the way so many French vineyards do not brag on their labels with effusive notes and poetry. This is a straightforward Saint-Émilion with all of the richness that you expect from a grand cru.  It is predominantly or perhaps all Merlot, maybe with some Cabernet Franc (locally called Bouchet) in the blend. At $60 it is not a wine to pop the cork on every day, but for a fairly special meal with friends who really enjoy wine this will make them very happy this summer.

 

Los Siete Misterios Doba Yej ($39) —Way too many Mezcals try to distinguish themselves from tequila by being smokier, when in fact by tradition Mezcals are not necessarily smoky at all. What you want is nuance, and that’s what you get in Doba Yej from a company that’s been making Mezcal since 2010.  It is made in a  copper pot still from Espadan agave and they make several variants. This one has some real fire in it, but you can still taste the fruit and a slight smokiness gives it just enough of that flavor enhancer without tasting like ashes.