MARIANI’S
Virtual
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Founded in 1996
ARCHIVE Elinor Donahue, Lauren Chapin, Robert Young, Jane Wyatt and Billy Gray in "Father Knows Best" HAPPY FATHER'S DAY!
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IN THIS ISSUE WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE CRITICIZING A RESTAURANT IN THE POST-PANDEMIC ERA By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER PUTTANESCA By John Mariani CAPONE'S GOLD CHAPTER TWELVE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR BARGAIN BOTTLES FROM PORTUGAL By GEOFF KALISH ❖❖❖ On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. June
23 at 11AM EST,I will be
interviewing Regina Miglucci of Mario's
restaurant on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx.
Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖ WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE CRITICIZING A RESTAURANT IN THE POST-PANDEMIC ERA By John Mariani Nothing could
make me happier than to have been right last
year about how vibrantly the American restaurant
industry, from fast food to fine dining, would
rebound as the pandemic allows them to reopen at
100% capacity. These restaurateurs have
struggled mightily to stay afloat and their
staff to handle everything from child care to
meeting the rent.
•
Getting staff is extremely difficult for
restaurants. The reasons are many,
not least that many waiters, busboys and
dishwashers are making as much or more from
unemployment benefits than the minimum wage they
might have been paid. They have the upper hand now
in hiring. At one noted New York restaurant, the
owner paid to have a former dishwasher fly from
the Dominican Republic to work at his place again
and at a higher salary. Everyone else on the staff
was new. Therefore, do not expect that your
favorite server is still there or that any of the
new ones have much training just yet.
•
Expect abbreviated menus. With so many
restaurants still at less than 100% capacity (many
because
they cannot get sufficient staff), they have to
maximize their buying of food they know will sell
well. Special purchases can be an iffy proposition
if only three people order the sweetbreads that
the chef bought ten portions of. Your old
favorites will probably still be on the menu,
though.
•
Wine lists may offer bargains. During the pandemic
restaurateurs ordered next to no new wine, and
many sommeliers and beverage directors were laid
off and not re-hired as essential to running the
business. So, restaurants have to move the wines
that have been lying in their storage quickly,
especially white wines that do not age as do most
reds. This means there will be bargains galore. If
there is no longer a wine advisor, don’t blame the
new waiter for not knowing the distinction between
two Puligny-Montrachet Burgundies put on the list
five years ago.
•
Amenities may be fewer. Those abundant
bread baskets with big slabs of butter may be
gone, largely because so much of it has, by law,
to be thrown away because of possible
contamination by someone at a table. Items like
fresh flowers, salt and pepper shakers (which,
sadly, get frequently stolen) and cloth napkins
and tablecloths (which is a big laundry expense)
may all be gone. The wine glasses may not be of
the quality they once were.
•
Expect prices to rise. Aside from the loss of income
restaurateurs endured for the past year, food
prices have gone inexorably up, not least beef,
which, believe it or not, is not a
high-profit item in a steakhouse charging $50 for
a ribeye. So, menu prices have to reflect those
increases; they’re not trying to gouge you.
•
Tip at least what you did before. If 15% is still the reasonable
average for a tip at a good restaurant and 20% for
very good service, you might now consider 20%
(before taxes) as a generous but reasonable tip
for people who have been so long out of work. In
most major cities in America 20% has become pretty
much the average anyway.
•
Don’t fuss about wearing a mask. I hate the masks. Everyone hates
the masks. And many of us who have the full
vaccinations
need not worry much about infections at a
dinner table. Still, because of conflicting
municipal requirements, guests still need to have
their temperature taken and to wear a mask, even
if only to traverse the ten feet from the host
desk to your table. And I’ve found that if you’ve
neglected to bring a mask, they have an ample
supply. ❖❖❖ NEW YORK
CORNER
PUTTANESCA
202 Eighth Avenue 646-850-0764 The provocative story of how spaghetti
alla puttanesca—a classic of Roman cookery
made with tomato, onions, capers and
anchovies—got its name as a quick dish made by
Roman harlots (puttante)
between turning tricks, seems wholly fanciful,
not least because it isn’t all that quick to
make. But if you seek one of the most authentic
and intense versions of it in New York, head for
the charming new trattoria in Chelsea that
shares its name. ❖❖❖
CAPONE’S
GOLD
CHAPTER TWELVE
As soon as she got to the airport in
Chicago, Katie called David, but got a
recording, so she boarded her flight and was
back at LaGuardia in two hours. There
she took a taxi to her apartment on Campbell
Drive, tossed her things on the bed and called
David again.
This time he answered.
David
was already sitting on a banquette at Mario’s when
Katie walked through the door, where she was
immediately greeted by the owner, Joe Miglucci,
who said he hadn’t seen her for a while. Katie
then introduced him to David, who said, “Katie
tells me you make the best pizza in New York. And I
was born in the Bronx.” ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
BARGAIN BOTTLES FROM
PORTUGAL
By Geoff Kalish
While best known for its production of
sweet, fortified red wine, Portugal also produces
some excellent, bargain priced, and generally
widely available reds, whites, rosés and
sparklers. In fact, Portugal boasts the highest
density of native grapes per square mile of any
country in the world. And from a number of bottles
sampled over the past few months, many from the
country’s southern Alentejo area, these are my
picks to please the pocketbook as well as the
palate.
Herdade de Sao Miguel Colheita Seleccionada Rosé 2020 ($7)—Made from a blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez and Syrah grapes, this dry rosé shows a very pale pink color, a bouquet of watermelon and lime and a taste of apples and citrus with a crisp finish perfect to pair with sushi or a range of appetizers, like smoked salmon, bruschetta or toast with olive tapenade. Caves de Cerca Famega Vinho Verde 2019 ($8)—This light, fruity low-alcohol white was made from a blend of indigenous grapes from the Minho area in northern Portugal. It shows a bouquet and taste of green apples and lime with citrus in its finish. It mates well with shrimp, scallops, lobster or sushi. Herdade Do Esperao Monte Velho Blanco 2019 ($10)—Produced sustainably in the Alentejo by the Roquette family from a blend of organically grown indigenous grapes (Antas Vaz, Roupeiro and Perrum varietals) this white shows a bouquet and taste of well-integrated flavors of apple, peach, lemon and grapefruit with a long lingering finish. Marry it with shrimp scampi, chicken or pasta primavera. Casa Santos Lima Lab 2017 ($8)—This very popular red is made from a blend of Castelao, Tinta Roriz, Syrah and Touriga Nacional grapes grown just outside Lisbon. It shows a bouquet and smooth taste of plums and cherries. Serve it with hamburgers, pizza, pasta with red sauce or even grilled skirt steak. Cartuxa Eugenia de Almedia EA Tinto 2018 ($8)—This blend (35% Aragonex, 30% Tricandeira, 20% Alicante Bouschet and 15% Syrah) is a light, fruity red with a bouquet and easy-drinking flavor of plums, cherries and notes of chocolate in its smooth finish. It mates well with a wide range of fare from chicken to veal to pork chops. Herade da Esporaro Monte Velho Tinto 2019 ($8)—This red blend (Aragonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional and Syrah) is far more elegant than its price would indicate and shows a bouquet and rich taste of plums, cassis and cherries that marries harmoniously with salmon, Arctic char or veal. Carmim Monsaraz Reserva 2018 ($8)—Made from a blend of grapes (Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Touriga Nacional), grown in the Alentajo region, this robust wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak for 9 months following fermentation. It has a bouquet and taste of ripe plums and blueberries and a mildly tannic finish. Currently it makes good accompaniment to steak and lamb and should become mellower with a few years of bottle age and match a greater variety of fare. Bacalhoa Quinta do Carmo Tinto 2018 ($10)—Fashioned from a blend of indigenous grape varietals plus Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, this red shows a bouquet and taste of cassis and plums that pairs well with grilled lamb or veal. Of note, the 1993 version (from my cellar) still had plenty of oomph with a taste of cassis and crushed violets that matched well with grilled porterhouse and dark-veined cheeses. Aluado Reserva 2019 ($14)—This 100% Alicante Bouschet red from the winemaker Jose Neim Correio hails from the Lisboa area along the Atlantic Coast. It has a bouquet and taste of plums, cherries and cassis with a touch of vanilla in its dry finish that matches the taste of turkey, duck or veal quite well. Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto 2019 ($16)—This blend of several native grape varietals, grown in the southern portion of the Alentejo region, was fermented and aged in clay amphora using indigenous yeast and without any temperature control. It shows a bouquet and medium-bodied taste of cherries, blueberries and cassis with a finish dominated by a taste of earthy herbs and peppers that dissipates with some decanting. It makes good accompaniment for veal, chicken or mild cheeses. ❖❖❖
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Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences."
Eating Las
Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering
the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene
since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS
VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as
well as the author of the Eating Las
Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
Robert Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish,
and Brian Freedman. Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
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