MARIANI’S

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  September 5, 2021                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



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"Oyster Shuckers, Rockpoint, Maryland" (1936) by Arthur Rothstein

Oyster       

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IN THIS ISSUE
A PERFECT RESTAURANT
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
VICTOR'S CAFÉ

By John Mariani

CAPONE'S GOLD
CHAPTER 23
By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SUSTAINABILITY NOW THE
RULE IN WINEMAKING
By John Mariani




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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. Sept. 8 at 11AM EDT,I will be interviewing actor/writer CHAZZ PALMINTERI, author of A BRONX TALE. Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.






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A PERFECT RESTAURANT


By John Mariani



      Well, of course, there’s no such thing as a perfect restaurant that everyone would agree on. And having dined out around the world all my life, I’ve only found a handful that would meet all my criteria, which I’ll tell you about at the end of this article. But those few have shown me that such perfection is actually achievable through a great deal of effort driven by an owner and/or chef’s dedication to that ideal. So, let’s run down my list of what constitutes a perfect restaurant, but note well: these are obviously criteria for higher-end restaurants, which would not apply to lower-end eateries with wonderful food but fall short in the ways fine dining restaurants excel.

 

        Décor—The last thing I expect is the kind of old-fashioned French kitsch that looks like the set of a Hollywood musical about Marie Antoinette. Modern décor offers so many beautiful options for a restaurateur to choose from, so that an haute cuisine restaurant in Paris might very well be a model of modernism. It is in the use of materials and interior design that expresses the style and essence of a good restaurant, not the gilding on its sconces or the tassels on its menu.

 

        Lighting—I deplore the idea that dark, dim lighting is in any way romantic, unless it’s by candlelight in a wine cellar. And in fact, most of the great restaurants of the world tend to have lots of light, so as to show off the décor, the beauty of the table settings and food and the opportunity for people to see each other across a room, as Galatorie's in New Orleans (left). Harsh lighting is inexcusable but soft lighting is requisite for conviviality. Otherwise, in a dark room, you find people whispering, “Will you please pass the salt,” then fumble to distinguish the salt shaker from the pepper. Again, modern light fixtures, recessed or tracked, offer all sorts of mood-lifting light.

 

        Noise Level—The bane of contemporary restaurants, especially in the U.S., is a dining room whose decibel level of 90+ is the same as having a lawnmower go through it. In fact, many restaurateurs are under the delusion that noise, with added piped-in music, creates excitement, when all it does is to encourage more noise, impossible conversation and intense stress. Sonically speaking, 65 decibels is considered to be “normal conversation,” which sounds just fine to me. 

 

        Napery, silverware, glassware—Whatever is put on the table should reflect the same style and class of what surrounds it, so there should be some sort of amenable and appealing table covering (bare tables has become the rule these days out of a desire to cut costs). The silverware need not be Cristofle or Laguiole, but it should not be cheap diner-class either. Excellent, thin glassware these days is extremely inexpensive and, even cheaper for restaurants buying in bulk, because of imports from Eastern Europe, so that it is wholly unacceptable to have wineglasses with thick stems and lips on the rims.

 

        Wine list—I am much happier with a moderate-size, well selected wine list than a phone book (are there still such things?) of trophy wines with sixteen California Merlots and ten vintages of  a duxième cru Bordeaux. And I see little reason for an Italian restaurant to stock Australian Sauvignon Blancs or Greek restaurants to cellar South African carménères. Give me a list geared to the menu and have a beverage director who is helpful rather than pushy. A good sommelier should ask if you wish to have the bottle left on the table so you can pour it at will. Ice buckets should be set within reach. Decanting need only be done for older wines known to throw off sediment.

 

        Wine temperature—This is critical, although one need not be draconian about it. A red wine at 55 degrees and white wine around ten degrees cooler are ideal, but if your "room temperature" us above 75 or you white wines are chilled ice cold, wine should always err on the side of coolness.

 

        Temperature of food—In many restaurants this is a balancing act in the kitchen, but it is and should be the aim of a good kitchen to have all dishes come out at the right temperature. The silly days of chilling a salad plate and fork are gone but a heated (not scalding) plate for hot dishes is absolutely essential. Presenting a steak or fish on a “sizzling platter” further cooks the food beyond the interior temperature it should be and juices begin to coagulate.

 

        Shelling and boning—Boning a whole fish, if so presented, is not the toughest task in the world for anyone to master, nor is the boning of a filet like sole. But a good restaurant has waiters who know how to do it with quick dispatch so as to maintain the temperature. If a lobster is ordered with its shell cracked, or the meat extracted, that should be done quickly in the kitchen. Waiters who try this maneuver at the table take far too long and you end up with cold lobster. Best thing to do is to ask for the claws to be cracked in the kitchen, then do the rest yourself.

 



        Decoration on the plate and garnishes—Extravagance on plates went out a century ago and only came back under the assault of the modernist chefs who believe their best friend in the kitchen is a pair of tweezers with which they spend five minutes gussying up a dish. Anything that is not to be eaten should be left off the plate.


 

        Soup and Cheese—Granted, not that many people order either soup or cheese these days, but a perfect restaurant (exempting, of course, most Asian restaurants) should offer both, preferably as exemplary of the region featured on the menu, like Venice or Marseilles.

 

        A simple menu—Almost always less is more on a menu, unless it’s at Cheesecake Factory. Indeed, a lengthy menu confuses and confounds guests, especially if the captain or waiter insists on describing every dish already described on the menu. And who cares what a waiter’s “favorite” is? No one really wants to have to choose from a menu with 16 appetizers, six salads, 12 pastas, ten meat dishes and ten seafood options. A carefully crafted menu focuses on what the chef does best and what he believes will showcase his real talents.

 

So, where have I had perfect dinners and can pretty much guarantee you will, too?



Dal Pescatore
, Canneto sull’Oglio, Italy.





Don Alfonso, Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, Italy.








Epicure,
Paris.





Pavillon, Zurich.








Restaurante Palacio Cibeles
, Madrid




Le Bernardin
, New York, NY.









Il Gattopardo
, New York, NY.




Porter House, New York, NY.









Tony’s,
Houston, TX.





Rasika, Washington DC.










Saneh Jaan,
Bangkok.











The Ritz Dining Room, London.
















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NEW YORK CORNER

VICTOR’S CAFÉ

236 West 52nd Street
212-586-7714




By John Mariani

 

        Before Victor’s Café opened in 1963, Cuban cooks worked in restaurants that sold themselves as Spanish while lending a good deal more spice and seasoning to the food. Victor del Corral and his wife, Eloina Ruiz de Ugarrio (left), emigrated from Havana and opened his namesake restaurant on the Upper West Side, then moved to the Theater District as of 1980. The move brought waves of theatergoers and celebrities to Victor’s over the past five decades, and now, after a closure due to Covid, the place has a brand new sheen and décor that makes it one of the most convivial and colorful spots in New York.
       There are three dining rooms of various sizes, each individually decorated with Cuban and modern art, excellent lighting, and, somehow, a moderate decibel level despite a highly convivial crowd. You may also dine outside on the enclosed patio. There is also a snug Cuba Lounge up front, with live music and a portrait of boxer Roberto Durán, who in 1980 reportedly ate a gargantuan meal at Victor’s before going into the ring against Sugar Ray Leonard and giving up in Round Eight, saying, “No mas!”
       Victor’s daughter, Sonia Zaldivar, and granddaughter, Monica Zaldivar (left) now run the restaurant, along with the ebullient general manager Francine Powell. The waitstaff could not be more cordial and are very helpful in choosing your dishes and wines. There are also some terrific cocktails that include a first-rate daiquiri and a range of mojitos.
      As Guillermo Pernod and Lourdes Castro have written in Cuba Cooks (2018), Cuban cuisine is an amalgam of influences that include native food, Spanish, African, French and Chinese—this last owing to the 19th century immigration of 100,000 Chinese to work the island’s sugar farms and docks. This so-called comidas criollas evolved over centuries, with both indigenous and imported foods providing variety, all represented on Victor’s well-structured menu.

      There are more than a dozen appetizers at Victor’s, and you can get a good sampling of several of them by ordering the “1492 Aperitivo Cubano” for two ($32). Or you can order individual apps à la  carte, such as a brisk ceviche of Florida red snapper (below) with a citrus marinade, red onion, mango and avocado ($17); a “Havana guac” of avocado, tomato, cilantro, onions, lime, tropical cheese and tropical root chips ($13); excellent Cuban quesadillas with Creole shrimp and manchego cheese ($13); handmade sweet plantain croquettes called bartolitos stuffed with roast pork, black bean purée and goat’s cheese ($13); plump ham croquettes with tomato-cachuca pepper sauce ($10); puff pastry empanadas of succulently braised chicken, mango and a mango-habanero sauce ($10); fried plantains topped with morsels of fresh pork ($11); and Cuban style beef with peppery chorizo and pork sliders with matchstick fries ($14). Every one of them has its own distinct flavors, textures and savoriness.

       If you have found Cuban food working-man heavy in the past, be aware that Victor’s Café uses no lard in the cooking, substituting lighter olive oil. Thus, the specialty of ropa vieja ($32) is slowly braised, shredded skirt steak in an aromatic, rich but not heavy garlic, tomato, onion and pepper sauce, while pan-fried shredded vaca frita is skirt steak with red onions and a tangy-sweet Seville orange and garlicky mojo. One of the best dishes is the lechon asado of 24-hour marinated roast pig  cooked in Cuban-style mojo with plenty of garlic, yucca and moros black beans ($32). It arrives with crackling crisp skin and buttery flesh beneath. All main courses come with rice and black beans, but I also urge you to try one of the rice dishes like the arroz con pollo à la chorrera ($26) in a casserole (left), which easily serves four as a side dish or two as a main. 

       There are five seafood dishes, though oddly two of them are salmon, a fish that swims in waters a long way from Cuba. Much better are the Florida red snapper fillet with green plantain crust, sofrito and the starchy mash called fufu ($37) or you can have it grilled with corn, cherry tomatoes, scallions and cilantro ($37). There is also enchiladas of shrimp and a spicy Creole sauce with boniato purée and boniato crisps ($29).

       At least share a dessert ($8-$11) like the Cuban flan with caramel sauce; the warm guava cobbler; the cinnamon-scented rice pudding, the wonderfully rich and sweet tres leches sponge cake; and the hot, crunchy churros with hot chocolate sauce (left) are irresistible.

       Victor’s Café is, as noted, smack in the theater district and, while they do not have a specific pre-theater menu, the place is always hopping by 5:30, and it’s a good place to come for a drink after theater at that lounge.

      I am so glad to see Victors Café back open and definitely in the swing of things. It may be a radical departure from the kind of restaurants you find in Havana these days (which Cubans cannot eat at), but there is definitely a New York swagger to Victor’s Café that makes it all the more sexy and appealing.

 

Victor’s Café is open for dinner Wed.-Sat.


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CAPONE’S GOLD


By John Mariani

To read all chapters of Capone's Gold beginning April 4, 2021 go to the archive
 

CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE

 

      The two of them met the next day at the New York Public Library, where David had been looking into table settings and flatware patterns of the 1930s, as well as who might have made personalized sets in New York, Chicago or Miami.  The reference librarian gave David a look to suggest, “You don’t look the type.”
      He had also paid visits to various precious metal exchanges in Manhattan, some of whose owners had worked with the police on stolen goods.
        
       
“Fancy meeting you here, in a library,” said Katie.
         “Don’t worry.  I’ve got my brass knuckles and Taser with me just in case.”
         “So, anything new?”
         “I’ve been looking into table settings.”
         Katie feigned blushing, crossed her hands on her chest, and said, “Oh, David, this is so sudden!”
         “Yeah, well with what I make, stainless steel flatware is more likely. So, anyway, I found that solid gold knives, forks and spoons would have been outrageously expensive, and, in the 1930s, the gold would have been very difficult to obtain.”
         He read from his notes:  Most gold flatware is just gold plated, with under layers of silver or copper.  Even so-called “gold-filled” jewelry is a layer, and by law has to be at least five percent of the item’s total weight.  But in the 1920s and 1930s, some gold-filled items, called “rolled gold plate” contained 12.5 percent 14 karat gold.  Anything solid gold would be unique in any era.
         “That setting Theresa Scali had would have been, well, worth its weight in gold,” he said.
         “And she said there were maybe twenty settings total,” Katie added.
         “That still wouldn’t add up to more than a few melted down ingots,” said David. “I figure that Capone just had the gold settings made for his own pleasure before he went to prison.  And when he died, and the feds tried to confiscate his holdings, his wife or mother gave the settings to various family members as a gift.  Telling the feds that their gold was melted down to make settings for his dinner table was not likely to sit well with the feds, who would then indict him for merely owning the stuff and use it as evidence he was behind the heist.”
         “All right,” said Katie, “so we eliminate a few ingots of gold.  Where’s the rest?”
         “I was just going to ask you if it might be in Germany.”
          Katie took out her notes from her meeting with Professor Mundt and made a very detailed report.
         “So, it’s possible that Capone made friends with Adolph Hitler and had the gold shipped to Germany?” asked David.
         “Well, if he did he couldn’t touch it during the war. And by then, from what Professor Mundt said, most of the loot was either stolen by the Nazi higher-ups, deposited in Switzerland, recovered by the Allies and Russia, or is still sitting in tunnels throughout eastern Europe.”
         “So, shy of our digging and spelunking our way through the mountains of Bavaria, Poland, and the rest of eastern Europe,” said David, “that info leads nowhere. Besides, if the Nazis smelted and changed the stamp on the gold bars, you couldn’t tell if it came from the Federal Reserve anyway.”
         “True,” said Katie, “but if we could at least find out that Capone did somehow ship the gold to Germany, that’s not only part of my story but may be enough to get the feds to hand over the reward.”
         David shook his head and said, “That I doubt.  The reward is for information leading to the ‘recovery’ of the gold, not just saying where it might have gone.”
         “I guess you’re right, but it’s still part of the story and, if we could find out how much—maybe all—of it went to Germany, it would be a coup on our part.  And, if it did not all go to Germany, it’s still out there, and we can eliminate one whole country in our search.”
         “I feel better already,” said David. “So now I think we’re back to Capone’s boats. His bigger yachts could sail the Atlantic, or, what’s easier, they could rendezvous with a German ship beyond the 12-mile limit.  A rumrunner, if fitted to carry successive, light shipments of the gold might be even a better idea in case they had to make a run for it.”
         “Any idea how’d we’d go about finding evidence of that?”
         “There must be records of ship itineraries from before the war.  I think we should call on Edward Prus and find out.”
         David and Katie walked the two blocks from the library to the New York Yacht Club and asked to see Edward Prus.  This time the wait was short and Prus seemed happy to see the couple, who asked where there might be maritime records on sailings as far back as the mid-1930s.
         “Hmm, the only archive I can think would have such material would be the Naval Institute in Annapolis,” said Prus.  “I can give you an introduction to some people down there, if you like, and they can gather what you might be looking for if you give them a day or two.”
         Katie and David thanked Prus for the offer and left to plan a quick trip on Amtrak down to Annapolis.

 

                                                         *                         *                         *


         The U.S. Naval Institute is located just across Peters Cove from the U.S. Naval Academy (below), and since Katie and David arrived an hour early for their appointment at the Institute, they walked like tourists through the red brick streets of Annapolis, visited St. Mary’s Church, and meandered through the Naval Academy, where cadets in various uniforms walked briskly, without ever setting foot on the campus grass.
           At two o’clock, Katie and David entered the Institute and met Lieutenant William Gaudet, who appeared to be in his mid-forties.
         “I hear you know Ed Prus,” said Gaudet. “Very knowledgeable man, at least about the yachting world.”
         “He was very helpful,” said Katie, “but he said you’d be the man to help us with maritime records from the 1930s.” She then explained the relevance to Al Capone and the connection to Nazi Germany.
         “Interesting topic,” said Gaudet. “Before the war there was a lot of activity in the Caribbean and the Atlantic between Germany and other countries, especially Brazil and Argentina.  We have a good deal of archival material on that, and we even have a lot on the rumrunner boats, because so many of them were used by the Navy during the war for sub chasing and other patrol activities.  They were very fast boats, you know.”
         Gaudet led them to a library desk and said he’d be back with materials in a few moments.  Katie took out her pocket recorder. When he returned Gaudet had a very large map of the Atlantic, labeled 1938.  
        
“If I may begin with a little background of what was going on back then,” said Gaudet, spreading out the map of the Atlantic, lined with myriad shipping lanes of the day. “If Al Capone, or anybody, wanted to ship something to Germany in the mid-1930s, it would have come under scrutiny by port authorities on this side because the signs that Hitler was not to be trusted had already shown themselves.”
         Gaudet went on to explain that Hitler’s need for gold early on was driven by his desire to build a strong navy for Germany, whose size and tonnage had been very, very restricted by the League of Nations.  The priority, therefore, was to rebuild the army and air force, because ship building on a naval scale takes enormous resources of steel, shipyards, and workers skilled enough to handle the new technologies of the time.  So, although Hitler later flouted the restrictions on German naval power, the construction of U-boats was cheaper and easier to hide than battleships. As you know, once the war started, U-boats became the most powerful weapon in Hitler’s arsenal until the British cracked the Nazi codes and could track the U-boats on all their missions.
         “And the U-boats of the early 1930s were good enough to cross the Atlantic?” asked David.
         “Oh, yes. Remember, the Germans for all intents and purposes invented the submarine before World War I, so their expertise was unparalleled by the 1930s. And they were constantly making improvements to them.”
         “So, you’re saying that the Germans were more likely to use U-boats for these clandestine rendezvous with ships on this side of the Atlantic?”
        “It’s highly likely,” said Gaudet. “As I mentioned, boats flying the German flag would have come under greater scrutiny sailing out of American or British Commonwealth ports.  But U-boats could sneak up to the 12-mile limit or wait a few hundred miles away in the Atlantic and make transfers without being noticed.”
         “And do you have any information that American gangsters were in league with the Germans for such transfers?” asked Katie.
         “Oh, absolutely,” said Gaudet. “You may know that Henry Ford (below) himself was an ardent anti-Semite, and in 1938 he received the Grand Cross of the German Eagle from Adolph Hitler, who admired Ford’s assembly line techniques for the Model T as adaptable to producing the Volkswagen.  Hitler also saw Ford as a comrade-in-arms against the Jews.  He even mentioned Ford as a hero in Mein Kampf.”
         “And you’re saying Ford shipped illegal goods and technology to Germany via U-boats?”
         “He didn’t have to. There was nothing illegal about Ford trading with Germany before the war.  He even sent experts to help the Germans set up their assembly lines. In fact, before 1939, Ford subsidiaries controlled 70 percent of production in Germany.  Of course, once the war started, Ford’s participation ceased.”
         “All right,” said David, “so, if trade with Germany was perfectly legal, what would not have been legal to ship to Germany?”  (David already knew the answer.)
         Gaudet turned his palms up and said, “Why, gold, of course.  And from what you tell me, Capone was the only American who had a significant cache of gold to hide.  What better place to store it than Germany or Switzerland?”
         “And a U-boat could lug that much gold across the Atlantic?”
         “Well, you’ve given me no idea of the amount of gold there was, but it could have been accomplished over several trips.”
         Katie asked, “Is there any chance you have records of these clandestine trips.  I mean, if they were made in secret they wouldn’t have been recorded.”
         “True,” answered Gaudet, “but, fortunately, we do have records of U-boat travel before 1939 that were gleaned from German archives after the war.  The Nazis certainly knew where all their U-boats were going.”
         “Well, we’re looking at a period probably right after 1934, maybe early ’35,” said David.  “I don’t suppose there’s any chance you’d have the logs of rumrunners of the period.”
         “Actually, we do have some. They came with the confiscated boats. Listen, if you haven't had lunch, go ahead and I’ll see what I can find meanwhile?”
         Katie and David went off to lunch—Maryland crab cakes and cold beer—and talked a blue streak about what they’d just learned from Gaudet.
         “I think this is the missing link we’ve been looking for,” said Katie.  “It’s amazing that Gaudet has these kind of archives.”
         “Well, don’t get too excited,” said David. “He may not have the ones we need to make the connection.  I can’t imagine they have anything like complete files.”






©
John Mariani, 2015



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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

SUSTAINABILITY NOW THE
RULE IN WINEMAKING

by John Mariani



     It is difficult to understand how farmers and fishermen so often put immediate gains over long-term plans to keep their industries going. Farmers deplete the minerals in their farms’ soil and go for optimal volume over taste, while fisherman collect every lobster and all the tuna they can find, knowing the supply is not unlimited. In the world of viticulture, however, sustainability has become far more the rule than the exception and concerns over the myriad changes global warming can cause in a vineyard, from water to insects, are driving major investments to blunt their oncoming force. Here are some international wineries in the forefront of the battle.

 

Villa Maria: This well-known, innovative winery has launched a new sustainability-focused wine range focused on naturally farmed Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc under the EarthGarden label. The wines are from naturally farmed Pinot Noir and Sauvignon vineyards, free of synthetic chemicals, and Villa Maria has invested heavily in developing wildflower garden systems and regenerative viticulture across many of their owned vineyards.  Its Villa Maria EarthGarden Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($20) is really an evolution of NZ style, with far more complexity than so many others in the past, with combined citrus and flower aromas underpinned with acid. Its Villa Maria EarthGarden Marlborough Pinot Noir 2019 ($24) is not as blockbuster powerful as others are, which means more subtlety and earthiness to be appreciated.

The Las Brisas Vineyard in Napa Carneros is perfect for cool-climate wines, with daily fog lying on the terroir until noon. Its 2018 Riesling ($38) is rare among this California varietal for its equilibrium of flavor, acid and spiciness, closer to an Alsatian style.  The company’s mantra is that “In our vineyards, cellars and offices, Carneros Wine Company | Mahoney Vineyards focuses on stewardship of the lands that provide for us. From the energy efficient tractors and owl boxes in our vineyards, to the solar arrays and recycle programs in our offices, we try to minimize our carbon footprint whenever and wherever we can. In fact, because we are in the agriculture business, our goal is to produce less CO2 than our vineyards offset.”

 

FEL vineyards in Anderson Valley, California, uses every modern technique to combat climate change, including natural compost and organic fertilizer; cover cropping; conversion to no tillage; mechanical weed control; a riparian habitat for wildlife corridors and aquatic habitats; deficit irrigation; and integrated pest management. The 2020 FEL Anderson Valley Pinot Gris ($28) comes from the Hein Vineyard, Anderson Valley’s so-called  "Deep End,” whose nearness to the Pacific Ocean cools things down and allows the grapes to develop without getting overripe, so you have a Pinot Gris with more body and pear flavors than the bland examples that come from France and Italy.

 


 

Even Lambrusco is gaining by careful tending of the vineyards in Emilia-Romagna, with Venturini Baldini’s Cadelvento organic Lambrusco Spumante DOP ($21.99) brut rosato a real step forward for a wine too often associated with plonk like Reunite while still maintaining the forward fruit of the indigenous grape. Its dryness and sparkle also make it a good match for shellfish, and, of course, by tradition with the rich pasta dishes of the region. They also make a Lambrusco Emilia IGP Semi Sec ($16.99) from 100% Lambrusco Salamino that is quite aromatic and ideal as an apéritif to drink with antipasti.  

 


Renowned Winemaker Greg La Follette  has launched what he calls an “Accessible Premium Wine Brand” under the GLF Wines label, the grapes picked from Sonoma County and Russian River from select vineyards, with prices beginning at $25. The price is indeed accessible and, given La Follette’s pedigree, the wine is exceptionally well made, with plenty of complexity in its  2019 North Coast Pinot Noir  ($25) and 2019 North Coast Chardonnay  ($25), both made in moderately sized production. The reason La Follette can buy such quality grapes that usually go for a high price is because of long-time relationships with growers.



Marques de Casa Concha Carménère 2019 ($24.99) is a superb example of this under-appreciated varietal from Chile, aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, so you get good but softening tannins and levels of fruit and acids that make it great for roasts and casseroles. The Marques de Casa Concha name dates to 1718, when King Philip V of Spain granted the noble title of “Marques de Casa Concha” to Jose de Santiago Concha y Salvatierra for his merits as governor of Chile. Today it has been recognized by the Hallbars Sustainability Report Awards as one of the world’s best in the Food and Beverage sector.

Tilia wines of Argentina’s Mendoza Valley is “rooted in a deep connection with the surrounding natural environment and the stages of life in the vineyard, interrupted without fail by the family weekend gathering for asado, our name for barbecue.” I like that statement because it inextricably links wine to food and vice versa. Tilia is also the first Argentine wine to carry the Bodegas de Argentina Certified Sustainable Seal on its label. Its vineyards lie in both the Eastern and Southern regions with elevations ranging from 1,500 to 3,000 feet above sea level. Its well-priced Malbec ($11.99) and Torrontes ($14) show how well such wines show without a spike in price.











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ANSWER: WHEN THE FOOD
MEDIA RAN OUT OF STORIES

"When Did Vinegar Get So Cool?"  by Aliza Abarbanel, Eater.com (Sep 1, 2021).














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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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