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IN THIS ISSUE A PERFECT RESTAURANT By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER VICTOR'S CAFÉ By John Mariani CAPONE'S GOLD CHAPTER 23 By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR SUSTAINABILITY NOW THE RULE IN WINEMAKING By John Mariani ❖❖❖ On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. Sept.
8 at 11AM EDT,I will be
interviewing actor/writer CHAZZ PALMINTERI, author
of A BRONX TALE. Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖ A PERFECT RESTAURANT By John Mariani
Well, of course, there’s no such thing
as a perfect restaurant that everyone would
agree on. And having dined out around the world
all my life, I’ve only found a handful that
would meet all my criteria, which I’ll tell you
about at the end of this article. But those few
have shown me that such perfection is actually
achievable through a great deal of effort driven
by an owner and/or chef’s dedication to that
ideal. So, let’s run down my list of what
constitutes a perfect restaurant, but note well:
these are obviously criteria for higher-end
restaurants, which would not apply to lower-end
eateries with wonderful food but fall short in
the ways fine dining restaurants excel.
• Décor—The last thing I expect is the kind of old-fashioned French kitsch that looks like the set of a Hollywood musical about Marie Antoinette. Modern décor offers so many beautiful options for a restaurateur to choose from, so that an haute cuisine restaurant in Paris might very well be a model of modernism. It is in the use of materials and interior design that expresses the style and essence of a good restaurant, not the gilding on its sconces or the tassels on its menu. • Lighting—I deplore the idea that dark, dim lighting is in any way romantic, unless it’s by candlelight in a wine cellar. And in fact, most of the great restaurants of the world tend to have lots of light, so as to show off the décor, the beauty of the table settings and food and the opportunity for people to see each other across a room, as Galatorie's in New Orleans (left). Harsh lighting is inexcusable but soft lighting is requisite for conviviality. Otherwise, in a dark room, you find people whispering, “Will you please pass the salt,” then fumble to distinguish the salt shaker from the pepper. Again, modern light fixtures, recessed or tracked, offer all sorts of mood-lifting light. • Noise Level—The bane of contemporary restaurants, especially in the U.S., is a dining room whose decibel level of 90+ is the same as having a lawnmower go through it. In fact, many restaurateurs are under the delusion that noise, with added piped-in music, creates excitement, when all it does is to encourage more noise, impossible conversation and intense stress. Sonically speaking, 65 decibels is considered to be “normal conversation,” which sounds just fine to me. • Napery, silverware, glassware—Whatever is put on the table should reflect the same style and class of what surrounds it, so there should be some sort of amenable and appealing table covering (bare tables has become the rule these days out of a desire to cut costs). The silverware need not be Cristofle or Laguiole, but it should not be cheap diner-class either. Excellent, thin glassware these days is extremely inexpensive and, even cheaper for restaurants buying in bulk, because of imports from Eastern Europe, so that it is wholly unacceptable to have wineglasses with thick stems and lips on the rims. • Wine list—I am much happier with a moderate-size, well selected wine list than a phone book (are there still such things?) of trophy wines with sixteen California Merlots and ten vintages of a duxième cru Bordeaux. And I see little reason for an Italian restaurant to stock Australian Sauvignon Blancs or Greek restaurants to cellar South African carménères. Give me a list geared to the menu and have a beverage director who is helpful rather than pushy. A good sommelier should ask if you wish to have the bottle left on the table so you can pour it at will. Ice buckets should be set within reach. Decanting need only be done for older wines known to throw off sediment. • Wine temperature—This is critical, although one need not be draconian about it. A red wine at 55 degrees and white wine around ten degrees cooler are ideal, but if your "room temperature" us above 75 or you white wines are chilled ice cold, wine should always err on the side of coolness. • Temperature of food—In many restaurants this is a balancing act in the kitchen, but it is and should be the aim of a good kitchen to have all dishes come out at the right temperature. The silly days of chilling a salad plate and fork are gone but a heated (not scalding) plate for hot dishes is absolutely essential. Presenting a steak or fish on a “sizzling platter” further cooks the food beyond the interior temperature it should be and juices begin to coagulate. • Shelling and boning—Boning a whole fish, if so presented, is not the toughest task in the world for anyone to master, nor is the boning of a filet like sole. But a good restaurant has waiters who know how to do it with quick dispatch so as to maintain the temperature. If a lobster is ordered with its shell cracked, or the meat extracted, that should be done quickly in the kitchen. Waiters who try this maneuver at the table take far too long and you end up with cold lobster. Best thing to do is to ask for the claws to be cracked in the kitchen, then do the rest yourself. • Decoration on the plate and garnishes—Extravagance on plates went out a century ago and only came back under the assault of the modernist chefs who believe their best friend in the kitchen is a pair of tweezers with which they spend five minutes gussying up a dish. Anything that is not to be eaten should be left off the plate. • Soup and Cheese—Granted, not that many people order either soup or cheese these days, but a perfect restaurant (exempting, of course, most Asian restaurants) should offer both, preferably as exemplary of the region featured on the menu, like Venice or Marseilles. • A simple menu—Almost always less is more on a menu, unless it’s at Cheesecake Factory. Indeed, a lengthy menu confuses and confounds guests, especially if the captain or waiter insists on describing every dish already described on the menu. And who cares what a waiter’s “favorite” is? No one really wants to have to choose from a menu with 16 appetizers, six salads, 12 pastas, ten meat dishes and ten seafood options. A carefully crafted menu focuses on what the chef does best and what he believes will showcase his real talents. So, where have I had perfect dinners and can pretty much guarantee you will, too? Dal Pescatore, Canneto sull’Oglio, Italy. Don Alfonso,
Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, Italy.
Epicure, Paris. Pavillon,
Zurich.
Restaurante Palacio Cibeles, Madrid Le Bernardin, New York, NY. Il Gattopardo, New York, NY. Porter House,
New York, NY.
Tony’s, Houston, TX. Rasika,
Washington DC.
Saneh Jaan, Bangkok. The Ritz Dining
Room, London.
❖❖❖ NEW YORK
CORNER
VICTOR’S CAFÉ 236
West 52nd Street By John Mariani Before Victor’s Café opened in 1963,
Cuban cooks worked in restaurants that sold
themselves as Spanish while lending a good deal
more spice and seasoning to the food. Victor del
Corral and his wife, Eloina Ruiz de Ugarrio (left), emigrated
from Havana and opened his namesake restaurant
on the Upper West Side, then moved to the
Theater District as of 1980. The move brought
waves of theatergoers and celebrities to
Victor’s over the past five decades, and now,
after a closure due to Covid, the place has a
brand new sheen and décor that makes it one of
the most convivial and colorful spots in New
York.
There are more than a dozen appetizers at
Victor’s, and you can get a good sampling of
several of them by ordering the “1492 Aperitivo
Cubano” for two ($32). Or you can order individual
apps à la carte, such as a brisk ceviche of
Florida red snapper (below) with a citrus
marinade, red onion, mango and avocado ($17); a
“Havana guac” of avocado, tomato, cilantro,
onions, lime, tropical cheese and
tropical root chips ($13); excellent Cuban quesadillas
with Creole shrimp and manchego cheese ($13);
handmade sweet plantain croquettes called bartolitos
stuffed with roast pork, black bean purée and
goat’s cheese ($13); plump ham croquettes with
tomato-cachuca
pepper sauce ($10); puff pastry empanadas of
succulently braised chicken, mango and a
mango-habanero sauce ($10); fried plantains topped
with morsels of fresh pork
($11); and Cuban style beef with peppery chorizo
and pork sliders with matchstick fries ($14). Every
one of them has its own distinct flavors,
textures and savoriness. If you have
found Cuban food working-man heavy in the past, be
aware that Victor’s Café uses no lard in the
cooking, substituting lighter olive oil. Thus, the
specialty of ropa vieja
($32) is slowly braised, shredded skirt steak in
an aromatic, rich but not heavy garlic, tomato,
onion and pepper sauce, while pan-fried shredded vaca frita
is skirt steak with red onions and a tangy-sweet
Seville orange and garlicky mojo. One
of the best dishes is the lechon asado
of 24-hour marinated roast pig cooked
in Cuban-style mojo with
plenty of garlic, yucca and moros black
beans ($32). It arrives with crackling crisp skin
and buttery flesh beneath. All main courses come
with rice and black beans, but I also urge you to
try one of the rice dishes like the arroz con
pollo à la chorrera ($26) in a casserole (left),
which easily serves four as a side dish or two as
a main.
There are five seafood dishes, though oddly
two of
them are salmon, a fish that swims in waters a
long way from Cuba. Much better are the Florida
red snapper fillet with green plantain crust, sofrito
and the starchy mash called fufu ($37)
or
you can have it grilled with corn, cherry
tomatoes, scallions and cilantro ($37). There is
also enchiladas of shrimp and a spicy Creole sauce
with boniato
purée and boniato
crisps ($29).
At
least share a dessert ($8-$11) like the Cuban flan
with caramel sauce; the warm guava cobbler; the
cinnamon-scented rice pudding, the wonderfully
rich and sweet tres leches
sponge cake; and the hot, crunchy churros
with hot chocolate sauce (left) are
irresistible.
Victor’s Café is, as noted, smack in the
theater district and, while they do not have a
specific pre-theater menu, the place is always
hopping by 5:30, and it’s a good place to come for
a drink after theater at that lounge. I am so glad to
see Victors Café back open and definitely in the
swing of things. It may be a radical departure
from the kind of restaurants you find in Havana
these days (which Cubans cannot eat at), but there
is definitely a New York swagger to Victor’s Café
that makes it all the more sexy and appealing. Victor’s Café is open for dinner
Wed.-Sat. ❖❖❖
CAPONE’S
GOLD
CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE
The two of them met the next day at
the New York Public Library, where David had
been looking into table settings and flatware
patterns of the 1930s, as well as who might
have made personalized sets in New York,
Chicago or Miami. The
reference librarian gave David a look to
suggest, “You don’t look the type.”
*
*
*
The
U.S. Naval Institute is located just across
Peters Cove from the U.S. Naval Academy (below),
and since Katie and David arrived an hour early
for their appointment at the Institute, they
walked like tourists through the red brick
streets of Annapolis, visited St. Mary’s Church,
and meandered through the Naval Academy, where
cadets in various uniforms walked briskly,
without ever setting foot on the campus grass. © John Mariani, 2015 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SUSTAINABILITY NOW THE RULE IN WINEMAKING by John Mariani
It is difficult to understand how
farmers and fishermen so often put immediate
gains over long-term plans to keep their
industries going. Farmers deplete the minerals
in their farms’ soil and go for optimal volume
over taste, while fisherman collect every
lobster and all the tuna they can find, knowing
the supply is not unlimited. In the world of
viticulture, however, sustainability has become
far more the rule than the exception and
concerns over the myriad changes global warming
can cause in a vineyard, from water to insects,
are driving major investments to blunt their
oncoming force. Here are some international
wineries in the forefront of the battle. Villa Maria: This well-known,
innovative winery has launched a new
sustainability-focused wine range focused on
naturally farmed Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc
under the EarthGarden
label. The wines are from naturally farmed Pinot
Noir and Sauvignon vineyards, free of synthetic
chemicals, and Villa Maria has invested heavily in
developing wildflower garden systems and
regenerative viticulture across many of their
owned vineyards.
Its Villa Maria EarthGarden Marlborough
Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($20) is really an
evolution of NZ style, with far more complexity
than so many others in the past, with combined
citrus and flower aromas underpinned with acid.
Its Villa Maria EarthGarden Marlborough Pinot Noir
2019 ($24) is not as blockbuster powerful as
others are, which means more subtlety and
earthiness to be appreciated. The Las
Brisas Vineyard in Napa
Carneros is perfect for cool-climate wines, with
daily fog lying on the terroir until noon. Its
2018 Riesling ($38) is rare among this California
varietal for its equilibrium of flavor, acid and
spiciness, closer to an Alsatian style. The
company’s mantra is that “In our vineyards,
cellars and offices, Carneros Wine Company |
Mahoney Vineyards focuses on stewardship of the
lands that provide for us. From the energy
efficient tractors and owl boxes in our vineyards,
to the solar arrays and recycle programs in our
offices, we try to minimize our carbon footprint
whenever and wherever we can. In fact, because we
are in the agriculture business, our goal is to
produce less CO2 than our vineyards offset.” FEL vineyards
in Anderson Valley, California, uses every modern
technique to combat climate change, including
natural compost and organic fertilizer; cover
cropping; conversion to no tillage; mechanical
weed control; a riparian habitat for wildlife
corridors and aquatic habitats; deficit
irrigation; and integrated pest management. The
2020 FEL Anderson Valley Pinot Gris ($28) comes
from the Hein Vineyard, Anderson Valley’s
so-called "Deep
End,” whose nearness to the Pacific Ocean cools
things down and allows the grapes to develop
without getting overripe, so you have a Pinot Gris
with more body and pear flavors than the bland
examples that come from France and Italy. Even Lambrusco is gaining
by careful tending of the vineyards in
Emilia-Romagna, with Venturini
Baldini’s Cadelvento organic Lambrusco
Spumante DOP ($21.99) brut rosato a
real step forward for a wine too often associated
with plonk like Reunite while still maintaining
the forward fruit of the indigenous grape. Its
dryness and sparkle also make it a good match for
shellfish, and, of course, by tradition with the
rich pasta dishes of the region. They also make a
Lambrusco Emilia IGP Semi Sec ($16.99) from 100%
Lambrusco Salamino that is quite aromatic and
ideal as an apéritif to drink with antipasti.
Tilia wines
of Argentina’s Mendoza Valley is “rooted in a deep
connection with the surrounding natural
environment and the stages of life in the
vineyard, interrupted without fail by the family
weekend gathering for asado,
our name for barbecue.” I like that statement
because it inextricably links wine to food and
vice versa. Tilia is also the first Argentine wine
to carry the Bodegas de Argentina Certified
Sustainable Seal on its label. Its vineyards lie
in both the Eastern and Southern regions with
elevations ranging from 1,500 to 3,000 feet above
sea level. Its well-priced Malbec ($11.99) and
Torrontes ($14) show how well such wines show
without a spike in price.
❖❖❖ ANSWER:
WHEN THE FOOD ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
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