MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE "Still Life, 1871" by Gustave Courbet
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IN THIS ISSUE DINING OUT IN L.A. Part Two By John A. Curtas NEW YORK CORNER L'Artista By John Mariani CAPONE'S GOLD CHAPTER 33 By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR MODERNIZING MARSALA'S IMAGE By John Mariani ❖❖❖ On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. November
17 at 11AM EST,I will be
interviewing Wesley Whatley,
creative director of the MACY'S DAY PARADE.
Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖ DINING AROUND L.A. PART TWO BY JOHN A. CURTAS Ivy at the Shore EAST L.A. TACO CRAWL
Proceeding
from exquisite Japanese to wolfing down tacos
off the hood of a car is how we were rolling on
day two of our Los Angeles food fest. Our sense
of adventure led us straight up Olympic Avenue,
to Boyle Heights in the heart of East L.A.,
where Latino feed wagons dole out bulging
tortillas to lines of customers, drawn to the
food and oblivious to the less-than-affluent
surroundings in which it is served. These trucks
have huge followings on social media, making
them wildly popular with taco-hunting gueros
who wouldn't have been caught dead here ten
years ago. Price: Tacos
at any of these trucks usually cost about $5
each. The most expensive ones, at Ditroit,
were $8. TOTORAKU ("Secret
Japanese Beef")
Good
manners and good sense keep me from saying too
much about this impossible-to-get-into Japanese
steakhouse. For over twenty years Chef Kaz Oyama
has run Totoraku
like a semi-private club—only accepting
reservations from known patrons. It is not
like Rao's in New York—where a limited
number of regulars "own" the tables on certain
nights—but more like a secret society, where
only the privileged get the private
number and are allowed to book one of the five
tables available five nights a week. The front
door sign reads "TERIYAKI HOUSE PICO" and shows
a telephone number that doesn't work. Patrons go
through the back door. Price:
$365 per person
IVY
AT THE SHORE
Santa Monica is a
funny place. It has some of the most expensive
real estate in America but always seems in
danger of being overrun by people who can barely
afford their backpacks. Any day of the week
you'll find the homeless mixing with the
well-heeled, interspersed with tourists and
Inland Empire families seeking to escape the
summer heat. It's probably the greatest mingling
of income brackets anywhere in America, which is
one of the reasons we love it. Price: It's not
cheap, but after dropping over a grand on each
of two dinners (n/naka and Totoraku), a $165
for lunch for two seemed almost parsimonious. ❖❖❖ NEW
YORK CORNER
L'ARTISTA
142 Hamilton Place 646-858-0312 By John Mariani Autumn squash ravioli
Before considering
the appeal of the
three-year-old trattoria
L’Artista, it is pleasant to
consider its location on the
west side of Harlem in what is
known as Sugar Hill, which
gets its unofficial name from
its offering of the
“sweet life” to affluent
Blacks who were part of what
was called in the 1920s the
Harlem Renaissance. These
included Duke Ellington, Cab
Calloway and Thurgood
Marshall, who lived within its
ten blocks in some of
Manhattan’s most beautiful,
majestic townhouses. North of
Columbia University in
Hamilton Heights, the
neighborhood is within sight
of the Hudson River and so
removed as to be exceptionally
quiet and peaceful.
It seems appropriate, then,
for this little trattoria to
commemorate the artistic bounty of
the neighborhood in its name
L’Artista, as well as the artistry
of Chef German
Rizzo (below), who
opened the restaurant with Swiss
musician-composer Daniel Schnyder.
Turin-born Rizzo (with Southern
roots in the family) worked around
Europe, then came to the States to
cook for the Cipriani Group, then
had his own restaurant in Queens.
Here at this small, rustic spot in
Sugar Hill, he is doing highly
personalized cuisine with both
vivacity and generosity of spirit.
This begins with hot, puffy
rolls with two dipping sauces that
go well with the colorful array of
Italian charcuterie ($21) and
cheeses ($20). There are pizzas on
the menu, and I loved the one made
with burrata, Parma
prosciutto, fresh
tomato and arugula ($19), whose
yeasty crust is every bit as
important to its appeal and flavor
as the first-rate toppings (left).
Staying simple here means a
platter of burrata with ripe
cherry tomatoes and a dashing of
balsamico ($18). Just about
any dish here could serve as
either antipasto to be shared or
main course, so the big, baseball
size arancini rice ball alla
siciliana ($15) oozes with
short rib ragù, stringy mozzarella
and green peas. The beef meatballs
($19) called polpette are
lavished with a rich tomato sauce
with green peas and served with
toasted country bread. Finish one
of these by yourself and you’re
set for the night. The same
goes for grilled octopus
with asparagus, olives,
almonds and
cauliflower puree ($19).
And so. . . the pastas. You
won’t find better in New York, all
freshly made to a precise
thickness and texture, so that
they remain wonderfully al dente
mixed with just the right amount
of sauces. Wide egg noodles called
pappardelle are the classic
tangle for a terrific bolognese
ragù, besciamella cream,
tomato and a good dose of
Parmigiano ($22).
The ravioli are light and
delicate, stuffed with autumn’s
butternut squash and dotted around
with sweet green peas and accented
with lemon ($23), while pudgy agnolotti
needed nothing more than a
lavishing of fine melted butter
and a little sage ($22).
Cacio e tartufo ($23)
combines excellent spaghetti with
sharp pecorino, a crunch of black
pepper, parmigiano and shavings of
white truffles from Abruzzo (which
are not nearly as expensive as
those from Umbria). But the
risotto here is a triumph:
Superbly cooked, chewy rice
suffused with broth and served
with butter and mascarpone cheese,
as close to perfection as you’ll
find anywhere ($24).
There
are a few meat, poultry and
seafood items, even “Il Burger”
($19), including roasted Cornish
hen with peppers, onions and
potatoes ($29) and impeccably
grilled branzino ($25) drizzled
with olive oil and lemon.
Have at least one dessert,
which depends on what Rizzo
decided to make for the day, and
if you ask for an espresso the way
he drinks it, you will get just
that.
L’Artista’s wines are
chosen with the same personal
taste as everything else here, so
you should take Rizzo or the
knowledgeable
waiters’ advice as to what
is interesting within your price
range. L’Artista’s
local regulars are legion, but
those who have a nose for very
authentic, very generous cucina
Italiana should make their
way uptown to Sugar Hill. And yes,
you can take the A train. Open for
dinner nightly, for brunch Sat.
& Sun. Note: NYC Health Dept. rules require both restaurant staff and guests 12 or older to show proof they have received at least one dose of a COVID-19 vaccine. ❖❖❖
CAPONE’S
GOLD
CHAPTER THIRTY-THREE
Primerano explained that when the war
began Germany stole a tremendous amount of gold
from the nations it conquered; at the beginning
Italy’s reserves were safe. But, when the
Allies invaded and Mussolini was deposed, Hitler
demanded that the Italian gold reserves be
shipped to Berlin for safekeeping. © John
Mariani, 2015
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
FLORIO OF SICILY IS MODERNIZING MARSALA'S IMAGE By John Mariani The fortunes of Marsala wines in the post-war period have been restricted by being thought of as good for cooking with but not refined enough for drinking with meals. Yet it once had an admirable reputation because, being fortified, it was a wine that was easily shipped without damage and could be made in sweet or dry versions. Too many inferior Marsalas further dimmed its reputation but Florio, which was founded in 1833, has maintained its own reputation for refinement. Marsala earned a DOC in 1969, and in recent years Florio has been trying to upgrade the wine's image by certifying a much closer definition of what distinguishes the wine from Port or Sherry as one to be enjoyed as an aperitif or throughout the meal. I asked Roberto Magnisi (below), director of Duca di Salaparuta, Corvo and Florio wineries, as to efforts being made towards this end in Sicily.
Cantine Florio was
founded in 1833 by Vincenzo Florio (below),
an Italian entrepreneur who later became one of the
most important figures in the wine industry and
significantly contributed to the
internationalization of Marsala. Located right on
the Mediterranean Sea, in the city of Marsala, the
brand represents the past, the present and the
future of authentic Marsala. Today more
than ever, the Florio Marsala, embodies traditions
and authenticity but paves the way in the modern
world as a perfect companion for various different
occasions. It seems that
Marsala has had an uphill struggle to gain
recognition after so many decades of being
associated with cooking and with poor quality
marsala in the marketplace. When I was last in
Sicily I asked a few bartenders if many people
ordered marsala, especially the young generation
and all of them said it is not very popular at
all. While over the last
couple of decades Marsala has been mostly associated
as a cooking wine in the United States, Cantine
Florio has always prided itself in promoting high
quality authentic Marsala, with a special emphasis
on its Sicilian roots. The brand’s goal is to
bring Marsala back to its original scope and glory
by focusing on education and estate visits to
demonstrate to both the media and consumers the true
beauty and versatility of Marsala. Florio also
produces a premium line of Marsalas that fully
embody and best express the authenticity of the
Sicilian territory. Marsala has a connection with
American history, and it was enjoyed by our
founding fathers, correct? Marsala was
appreciated for years in the United States, thanks
to English trader John Woodhouse who brought it
stateside in the 1770s after having seen the
potential of Marsala beyond Italy. Unfortunately,
the Marsala we often find now in the US is
counterfeit, and is not authentic to the Sicilian
tradition. Cantine Florio continues its dedication
and commitment to ensure a high-quality product,
synonymous with tradition and “made in Sicily.” Tell me about your
wine tasting program in Trapani. We propose immersive
wine tours in the cellars to introduce our guests to
the Marsala “project”. Our winery is a known
destination for wine lovers from around the world
who want to experience an unexpected adventure where
tradition and modernity are combined, together with
delicious and traditional food pairings. I was recently on
the island of Favignana, and saw that Florio had a
great influence on the island and it's tuna
fishing. For an entire century,
the Florio family focused not only on wine
production but
also investing in the tuna industry. The first rule
behind the Florio business project was to promote
and invest in local traditions. Vincenzo Florio
invented the montaleva, a mechanism by which
you can fish for tuna entering the net in
dribs and drabs, as they end up in the trap, without
having to wait for entire herds. He introduced the
use of oil to conserve the tuna and ship it
in cans throughout Italy. He realized that the tuna
could be the "sea pork'' and taught also
to use its parts that before
were thrown away, arriving to produce glue
and fertilizer from the last scraps. Florio’s production
facilities were destroyed in World War II. But
what was “Del 1941” and how was it saved? Style, passion and
craftsmanship, despite physical destruction, survive
wars. The Florio soul continued to generate love for
Marsala, as well as for the island of
Sicily. ”Del 1941” is one of the company’s most
precious vintages. A small quantity of this rare
Marsala wine was saved from the bombings of Marsala
and Cantine Florio during World War II. Why is Terre Arse
called a “virgin” Marsala? The “Virgin Marsala”
represents Terre Arse’s capacity to age in
oak. This Marsala is a premium product that
embodies the intense aromas of Sicily, Mediterranean
Sea and oak tree. Vergine Marsala is a secco
(dry) wine, fortified after fermentation is
complete with no mosto cotto or sifone.
Solera versions must spend at least five years in
the solera prior to bottling. Vintage Marsala is
produced, the vintage refers to the year of
fortification. Virgin Marsala must have the
following characteristics: alcohol content
not less than 18% and less than 4% natural
sugar. Morsi di Luce is
said to be “fortified,” But aren’t all Marsalas
fortified to an extent ? Morsi di Luce isn’t a
Marsala, but rather a refined dessert wine made from
Zibibbo, a white grape grown in Sicily with a strong
aromatic character and intense aromas of flower and
citrus fruit. What is Centottanta? In 2013 Cantine Florio
created Centottanta, to celebrate its 180th
birthday. A limited edition, no longer available on
the market, that
contains an exclusive selection of Zibibbo aged for
three years in “caratelli'', small barrels
which previously held the great virgin marsala
reserve of 1963; an innovative, never-before
conceived wine that only Florio, with its almost two
hundred years’ heritage, could create. How has global
warming affected Sicilian wine making? The effects of climate
change are softened by the different microclimatic
conditions that are unique to Sicily, and which also
allow for the production of wines from both native
and international grapes on the island. The increase
in temperature and the lighter rainfall have
affected the winemaking production in the Marsala
territory, but there haven’t been significant
changes from a quality point of view. I count 20 wines
being made by Florio? Doesn't that tend to confuse
the consumer who is looking for a fine wine in the
marsala category? Today we have seven
main Marsalas on the market, which represent the
versatility of our portfolio. We’re telling the
story of Florio’s culture through VecchioFflorio
Sweet and VecchioFlorio Dry; a Dry Marsala Superiore
Dry (aged in old oak barrels for 30 months with a
sugar content of 39 g/l) and Marsala Superiore Sweet
(aged in old oak barrels for 30 months with a sugar
content of 100 g/l) which ensure continuity. We have recently
launched a super-premium line with three Marsalas:
Terre Arse Marsala DOC Riserva Vergine Dry, Targe
Marsala DOC Superiore Riserva Semi-dry, and Oltre
Cento Marsala DOC Superiore Sweet that are
sophisticated and elegant, true expressions of
Sicilian terroir; they are unique and part of the
“Marsala Gourmet Project” worldwide, featuring a
series of innovative combinations of Marsala and
food, to spark curiosity and elevate pairings for
sommeliers and wine lovers. ❖❖❖ . . . AND WHILE YOU'RE AT IT, YOU CAN
DRIVE YOUR ENTIRE FAMILY BONKERS
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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35) Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller. "This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe. "Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit. |
"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. "Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com. "A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia. "John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
|
Eating Las
Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering
the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene
since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS
VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as
well as the author of the Eating Las
Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.
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