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  December 26,  2021                                                                                            NEWSLETTER


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IN THIS ISSUE
JAMES BOND'S TASTES, Part Four
LIVE AND LET DIE

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
SAPPHIRE CUISINES OF INDIA

 By John Mariani

CAPONE'S GOLD
CHAPTER 39
By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
ABADIA RETUERTA'S NEW CUVÉE
By John Mariani




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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. December 29 at 11AM EST, I  will be reading Robert Mariani's tribute to Mort Fega, jazz emcee legend of the 1950s, with music by Miles Davis,  Ella Fitzgerald and others. Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.














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JAMES BOND'S TASTES
Part Four

By John Mariani

 


      Ian Fleming followed up the success of his first James Bond novel, Casino Royale (1953), a year later with Live and Let Die. The movie version, which was Roger Moore’s first outing as 007, came out in 1973.
      The novel’s plot involves Bond going after a Black-American criminal named “Mr. Big” (real name Buonaparte Ignace Gallia), who is also linked the USSR’s spy network SMERSH.  Big is smuggling 17th century gold coins to finance Russian spy operations in the West, so Bond goes to New York and Harlem, where the coins have been showing up.
      He and CIA agent Felix Leiter are captured by Big, who employs a beautiful astrologist named Solitaire to determine if they are telling the truth. (Leiter later is thrown into a shark tank and loses an arm and a leg but survives.) Bond goes on to Jamaica and, while attaching a mine onto Big’s yacht with Solitaire onboard, is captured again. Solitaire and Bond are to be dragged over a coral reef, but the attached bomb explodes and saves them. Big is thrown in the water and killed by sharks and barracudas.

      Live and Let Die, the novel, is crammed with food and drink episodes. In the first chapter Bond is staying at New York’s St. Regis Hotel, where he has lunch with Leiter and an FBI man named Dexter, ordering room service for soft shell crabs with tartare sauce, hamburgers, French fries, broccoli, a mixed salad with Thousand Island dressing and ice cream with melted butterscotch, accompanied by a bottle of Liebfraumilch “as good as you can get in America.”  The St. Regis was built by John Jacob Astor in 1904 (he co-owned the Waldorf-Astoria as well); one of its luxurious innovations was that each room had its own telephone. It became famous in the Jazz Age as the location of the King Cole Bar.
      Next day with a room service breakfast of scrambled eggs and double espresso a bomb arrives but is discovered, which does not keep 007 from a lunch on Lexington Avenue at a diner named  Glorified Ham-N-Eggs. For dinner they first stop at Sugar Ray’s, which really was owned by the boxer Sugar Ray Robinson, where they have a nip of Haig and Haig punch bottle Scotch, then on to dinner at Ma Frazier’s, which was at 2067 Seventh Avenue at 124th Street, which Leiter says is the best restaurant in Harlem, where they eat Maryland chicken and littleneck clams. 
     
Afterwards they go off to the Savoy Ballroom (the “Home of Happy Feet”) for Scotch-and-sodas and to watch the dancing couples. The Savoy was a very popular club of its day, featuring the big jazz bands of Duke Ellington and Cab Calloway. It closed in 1958. The two agents finish off the night, or early morning, with chicken sandwiches at a fictitious club called the Boneyard.
      Bond bonds romantically with Solitaire and escapes from Mr. Big—on the Silver Phantom (actually “Silver Meteor”) train to Florida, where Bond observes that its dining car service of Camembert cheese is “one of the most welcome surprises on American menus.” The train ran between New York and Miami, as of 1939 as the first diesel-powered streamliner. Later it was sold to Amtrak.
       At their hotel in St. Petersburg Bond orders a Haig & Haig and Leiter offers to take them to the Tampa restaurant Los Navidades (left, 1953), an old Spanish-Cuban food place that opened in 1890 in Ybor City and was a hang-out for the Sanchez y Haya Cigar Factory workers. It closed in 1972.
      At a small grill called Pete’s, Bond orders “the biggest steak, rare, with French fries he had ever seen,” with a pint of Old Grandad bourbon. In Jamaica he relishes the Caribbean food at MI6 agent Commander Strangeway’s home in the Blue Mountains: paw paw with a slice of green lime, a dish piled with red bananas, purple star–apples and tangerines, scrambled eggs and bacon, blue Mountain coffee—the most delicious in the world—Jamaican marmalade, almost black, and guava jelly.”
       Afterwards, preparing for a strenuous scuba-diving swim to Big’s island, Bond abstains from alcohol, and after the conclusion of a successful mission, he and Solitaire eat a big breakfast of “the first black crabs of the season,” roasted suckling pig, avocado salad and guava with coconut cream, with “the best champagne in Jamaica.”
      In the film version of Live and Let Die Bond shows himself as a somewhat prissy connoisseur, entertaining—and baffling—his superior “M” with a huge and complicated La Pavoni Europiccola espresso machine.  Otherwise, there is not much food and drink in the movie. In  New York, Bond takes a cab to Harlem and stops at the Fillet of Soul restaurant (right) where he asks for bourbon without water, only to be told that it will cost extra without water!
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n Jamaica he checks into the San Monique hotel (left; then and now the Sans Souci Resort) and orders Bollinger in his room and, yet again, later in New Orleans at the Royal Orleans Hotel, beginning a long association with that Champagne in Bond films. There’s another Fillet of Soul restaurant there, where Bond orders a Sazerac. Aside from a few other drinks, the film is devoid of any more meals.


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NEW YORK CORNER



SAPPHIRE CUISINES OF INDIA
2014 Broadway
212- 245-4444

By John Mariani


 

 

      It’s been decades now that the range and diversity of Indian cuisine has been rampant in restaurants in Manhattan, Brooklyn and the Bronx, many within enclaves of Indian immigrants.  And though there is still a huge audience for the style of traditional Indian-American food found at what used to be called curry houses, Sapphire Cuisines of India’s name is quite special for its inclusiveness of regional cooking.
      Darshan R. Shah (left), with partners Satish Arora and Steve Chopey, originally opened just at the onset of Covid-19, then promptly closed. They have relocated to upper Broadway (near Lincoln Center and the Beacon Theater), with Executive Chef Sachin Wagh, of adä, and sous chef Alpesh Rathod.
     Outside there are tables on Broadway for warmer weather and inside the ceilings are high and arched, with banquette and table seating. The good-looking chandeliers, however, throw too cold a light that might be modified. A scenic wall painting
by artist Prasanna Kumar was commissioned from the Fine Art Studio Table settings are excellent, not least very thin, fine stemware.
      The key to the complexity of flavors at Sapphire is that the kitchen grinds all its spices fresh, using none that have been shipped in that may well have been ground last spring. If you think of the difference between freshly ground and bottled cinnamon, you’ll appreciate how different these flavors can be. As Shah described it, “Each dish has its special masala (blend of spices) and each region has specific spices in its blend, usually based on weather in that region.  For example, in Northern India, where there usually is no central heat, many dishes will have lots of ginger, clover, cardamon, and cinnamon as these spices warm your body; then they have yogurt lassi, which coats the stomach from getting upset. In Southern India, where it is hot, lots of green chilies and spices that make you sweat, and in turn cool your body off."
      The à la carte menu contains many familiar Indian dishes prepared with those spices, but the best way to appreciate an array of the newer interpretations is with the $95 prix fixe menu, which allows diners to curate their own experience from an exclusive selection of 15 dishes—four choices for each savory course and three dessert choices. We left ourselves in Shah’s hands and were delighted by what was brought to the table.
      A case in point was a lovely dish called “Vitamin bhel,” made with millet and other healthful grains like sorghum to which is added some raw mango and shredded flour crisps with tamarind sauce. Shah says that a similar dish made in India is fried, but this version is not.  Dahi kebab, a Northern dish, is a pan-seared strained yogurt mixed with spices to form a soft cake served over strips of raw mango slaw with mustard seeds. Morel mushroom biryani is made with golden saffron rice laced with aromatic truffle oil.
     It’s been a while since I’ve had Chilean sea bass, because this once over-fished species began to be raised in farms with poor results. The specimen at Sapphire was superb, with that very appealing velvety texture and sweet flavor of the flesh, here enhanced in a rich, spicy coconut sauce.
     
The tandoori dishes (below) can be had as a mixed grill, with beef, lamb and chicken all cooked to their individual degree of succulence.Pork ribs with a South Indian spiced marinade is a Goan dish influenced by the Portuguese taste for vinegared food like vindaloo.  Do not expect charred ribs, for these are well sauced, served along with masala truffle fries. Quite unusual was a huge Black Angus filet mignon cooked as they do in the city of Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh.  It comes with an abundance of cumin-dusted fingerling potatoes.
     We tasted a few of the à la carte dishes as well, including Tandoori-fired chicken tikka in a creamy tomato sauce with fenugreek leaves; and some wonderful lentil dal. The naan bread came hot, charred, puffy and of the perfect chewiness.
     For dessert there was masala chai kheer (below) with chocolate dusting, and a delectable new item called “Malpua and Rabri,” which are crêpes with reduced saffron milk sauce then sautéed in ghee butter,  and accompanied by a cookie crumble served with a blueberry compote.   
     
The wine list is crafted to go with the robust seasonings of the food at Sapphire,  but I especially enjoyed the imported Flying Horse beer with Sapphire’s cuisine.
      I’ve known Darshan Shah for many years, though I hadn’t seen him in a decade. He still exudes both a pride in what makes Sapphire different and an Old School hospitality that has him dote on every guest. Impeccably dressed, he is a host of a kind that’s getting rarer and rarer at a time when so many Asian eateries seem to have forgotten good manners along with what guest ordered what dish.

 

Open for dinner Tues.-Sun.



Note: NYC Health Dept. rules require both staff and guests 12 or older to  show proof they have received at least one dose of a COVID-19 vaccine.
 



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CAPONE’S GOLD


By John Mariani
To read all chapters of Capone's Gold beginning April 4, 2021 go to the archive
 
CHAPTER THIRTY-NINE

 

Positano

 

         “Well,” said Katie as they got into the Fiat. “That was interesting.”
         David wagged his chin and whistled. “Now that I know the whole story, I’m more bewildered than ever.”
         “Me, too. There’s certainly enough to build a story on. It’s got to be Capone’s gold. I mean, fifty or more candlesticks and all the rest of the ornaments and altar pieces in the church. It adds up to hundreds of ingots, melted down.”
         “And without a Federal stamp on them,” added David.
         “And, if it was Capone’s gift to God in order to save his immortal soul, it was certainly in a safe spot. Even if he eventually told the feds where it was, they’d have a hard time getting hold of it, yet he’d have gotten the reward. But, David, I’m still puzzled as to how he got the gold over here? Did he put it on the Italian ocean liners with the rest of it? Did he have it melted  down when it got here?”
         “I don’t think so,” said David. “Remember you showed me those photos of the Capone flatware at Theresa Scali’s house?  Well, I can’t be sure—we can look at the photos when we get back to Naples tonight—but they seemed to have the same patterns as the candlesticks we saw.”
         “Meaning they were probably made by the same fabricator?”
         “Right, an American company. So, if Capone used just a few ingots to make his own personal dining set, he must have melted the rest down, had them made into candlesticks and church implements, then silver plated.”
         “And how would he get them to Angri?”
         “It all makes sense this way,” said David. “After the disaster with the rumrunner and U-boat, the arrangement for another third of the gold to be shipped to Italy on the ocean liners was easy enough to arrange through Mussolini. His people, along with Capone’s friends on the docks, would allow the gold to go onboard, no questions asked.”
         “Okay, I follow so far,” said Katie.
         “But there was still a third of the gold Capone held, and he wanted to hedge his bets in case Mussolini double-crossed him, or the Germans got the gold. He probably never knew that Vito Genovese had arranged with the American Army and the feds to transfer as much of the gold as they could back to the States.  So Al still had hundreds of ingots melted down into candlesticks and the rest and had them silver plated. That way he could have shipped them across the Atlantic on any ship he wanted. They might have been heavy, but, if silver candlesticks are listed on the ships’ manifest, it’s not going to raise much suspicion, especially if Capone’s friends on the Brooklyn docks (right) in New York oversaw the loading of the boat.”
         “Greco, you are a helluva detective,” said Katie. “That is an amazing story.  Capone keeps some gold hidden in reserve to help get him into heaven and even when the war breaks out, he knows the Church will hide it all somewhere, as they would any treasured objects.  What a great scheme.”
         “I think we got lucky there at the end,” said David, “but it’s the only way the whole thing hangs together. Three stashes of gold.  One lost. One in Mussolini’s custody.  One hidden away in his mother’s church, where nobody except a succession of parish priests knows the truth.”
         “Very . . . very well played,” said Katie.  “Too bad Al’s brain started to rot out before he had any chance of getting his revenge.”
         “Hey, who knows? Maybe Al is now up in heaven with his mother and father and the rest of his family.  I wouldn’t put it past him to bribe his way in with St. Peter.  If I remember correctly, those angels play harps of gold.”
         Katie stretched her arm out the window of the Fiat and asked, “Well, Detective Greco, you think we should reward ourselves with a day trip to Capri?”
         David was all for that idea but suggested they drive down the coast a bit more—they had the rest of the afternoon—and visit Positano, Amalfi, maybe Ravello, and stay over till the next day. 
        
“Drive on, maestro!” Katie said.

        

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         Feeling as if they’d already collected a reward—the simple fact of solving the mystery of Capone’s gold—gave the afternoon the refreshing feeling of having a weight off their shoulders.  They took their time driving down the Amalfi Coast on what had turned out to be a brilliant autumn day, with a brisk breeze coming off the sea. 
        
Following the signs for Positano, they began the serpentine crawl down the side of the mountain to a town that seemed barely attached to the rocks. Its buildings, some owned by very wealthy Italians and, increasingly, Russians, were done in a riot of bright pastel colors, the streets lined with lemon trees and bushes of basil, thyme and rosemary. 
        
The tourist crush of spring and summer had mostly subsided, but parking anywhere was difficult, so, when they did find a space, they ate at the nearest trattoria, La Cambusa on the Piazza Vespucci, with a breathtaking view of the water. They feasted on whatever the owner suggested, which was what was brought in by the fishermen down at the town dock that day.
         “Let’s not talk about Al Capone today,” said Katie.
      But, after a glass of wine, they couldn’t help themselves.
      “So once they know the whereabouts, you think the feds will come round up the gold?” she asked first.
      “Ha! Not likely. They would have to jump through so many legal hoops—international banking, the gold market, Interpol, the Italian government and the Naples police, not to mention the Vatican and the townspeople of Angri. Like the Monsignor said, it would be tough to get the town to give up their religious artwork going back seven decades.”
      “Even though the Fed had ownership? It’s not like they’re the Elgin Marbles,” said Katie.
      “Whose marbles?”
      Katie suppressed a chuckle, saying, “Lord Elgin was a Brit who gathered up all the marble statues that had fallen off the frieze of the Parthenon in Athens, then he shipped them back to London and the government had them installed ‘for safekeeping’ in the British Museum.  The Greeks have been trying to get them back for close to two centuries now.”
      “Oh, and you think the Italians are going to wrap up the gold in San Giovanni and just ship it all back to the U.S.?” asked David. “Believe me, even before litigation started, the Camorra would find a way to get it all out of the church.”
      “Wouldn’t the Neapolitan police keep that from happening, once this became known in the news?”
      “You mean, your article in McClure’s?”
      David shook his head and laughed. “You don’t know the Neapolitan police. Primerano and Lucadamo were two exceptions, real professionals, but most of them are inept at best. You might as well put the Pope’s Swiss Guard inside the church. Which, now that I think of it, is not a bad idea.”
      “But what would the Camorra do with gold that would become so famous they couldn’t use it?”
      “I don’t know. They might make a present of it to the Vatican and replace the candlesticks and ornaments with replicas. Then the Vatican could keep it secure in its own vaults.”
       “And the Camorra would get . . . what?”
      “Access to Vatican bigwigs. The grateful thanks of God Almighty.  I really don’t know. In any case, the secret will be out and now the whole world will have to deal with it.”
      Katie turned strangely quiet.
      “More wine?” asked David.
      Katie shook her head and just looked out to the sea.
      “All right, what’s the matter, Cavuto?”
      Katie put her chin in her hand and said, “It’s so very beautiful here. And it’s been this way for such a long time.”
      “Well, except for that little patch of inconvenience called World War II.”
      “I mean how it all goes way, way back, with a succession of invaders and kings and princes who tried to rob the people in Southern Italy of whatever wealth it had.  And how it was so bad for so many people that they left this gorgeous place and sailed to an unknown land called America.
      “You can see how little towns like Angri a hundred years ago would have lost maybe the majority of its people, including Teresina Raiola (left).  They had next to nothing, and it’s still pretty poor down here in the south. They’ve got plenty of crime and lots of corruption, and people still take advantage of them. All they can cling to is the Church and their little parishes where they were baptized, like their fathers and mothers and grandparents and great-grandparents were—at least those who didn’t move to America.”
     “And become gangsters, like Al Capone,” quipped David.
      “That’s not fair, David. Your ancestors didn’t, mine didn’t, and we didn’t. Capone wasn’t even born here and his only connection to the region was through his long-suffering mother.”
      “I know. You’re right,” David said. “Capone and all the hoods I went after helped blacken all the Italian immigrants who left here.  Looking around, it must have been very difficult for them to pick up and go.”
  David hoped Katie might start singing “Return to Sorrento” again, but she seemed glum.
      “You know what I’m thinking, David?”      “I . . . have a feeling I do.”    
    "
I was thinking, what if I didn’t write the whole story after all?  What if the gold of Angri was never found, not even by the people of Angri.  The feds haven’t a clue as to the gold’s whereabouts and it sounds like the Camorra doesn’t either.  What if we just kept the secret of Angri?”
      David’s mind was churning under the influence of two more glasses of wine than Katie had.
      “After all we’ve been through, including almost getting murdered and made into fish food? Not to mention the money we spent on the whole project.  And I’m not even thinking of the reward money.”
      “Okay, what if we use what we’ve got on two-thirds of the gold—the sunken treasure in the Caribbean and the secret transfer to the Fed by Genovese and his friends in the U.S. Army. Then we have the attempted murder interlude by a Mafia thug.  That makes for a helluva good story, and it will really piss off your pal Frank English.”
      “That alone makes it sound enticing,” said David. “So, let me get this straight: You turn in all your notes and recordings and a nice fat story about the two-thirds of the gold we’ve found.”
     “Yes, and we can corroborate all of it. The Angri gold, we really can’t, and by so doing save that little town and its people a whole lot of publicity, misery, court costs, and so on. I’m positive my editor will go for that; I’ll get paid, you’ll get paid.”
      “But no reward?”
      Katie put her hand around David’s shoulder.  “Detective Greco, what was the reward you got from putting guys like Gotti away?”
      “I felt like a million bucks.”
      “Well, there you go.  You’re going to get a nice big fee for helping me on the story and the knowledge you figured out a mystery no one else could for more than fifty years. And, you got to hang out with me on the Amalfi Coast!  That enough?”
     
Then Katie gave him a big kiss on the cheek.
      “That and that kiss makes it enough,” said David, kissing her on both cheeks. “I love you, Katie.”    
    “Me, too,” she said, but both of them knew it was really out of mutual respect and nothing more romantic than that. At least on her part.
      Katie then called over the waiter and asked if he’d take a couple of pictures of the two of them.
      “I say we finish lunch, drive to Amalfi and call it a night,” said David. “Then tomorrow we can visit Capri.”
      “Reward enough,” Katie repeated.

      The trip to Capri (right) was blissfully free of the burdens of further investigation and brain crunching.  Katie had already phoned her editor and told him in brief as much as she’d discussed with David the day before, how she had a great story that would embarrass the F.B.I., the I.R.S., and the Federal Reserve—that was McClure’s kind of story!—as well as Nazi U-boats, rumrunners, Mussolini and Italian gangsters.  Who could ask for more?
      She told her editor she didn’t think the time she and David needed to stay in Naples for the police investigation would be much longer, and she promised to begin a first draft of the article. 
     
After another week she and David filed papers with the Carabinieri, and then were able to fly back to New York.
      On the plane David asked, “So, you going back to that lawyer friend of yours?”
      Katie shook her head and said, “Yeah, I think I’ve been away long enough for him to miss me like crazy.”
      Katie knew David was smitten with her, and she’d been very careful to mix her natural ebullience with a measure of cordial distance.  She could imagine working again with David someday on another project.  They made a good team. she thought, and, although she didn’t know where her relationship with “the lawyer friend” was going, her affection for David would have no effect on it.

 

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The Hudson River

 

      A few weeks later, after Katie and David had worked on piecing the story together, Katie handed it in to her editor, who was impressed by the amount of research and the success it led to.  Although somewhat disappointed by not knowing the whereabouts of the last third of the gold—hell, it was a whole lot more than Gerald Rivera ever found!—what her editor had was more than enough for a great story.  He even asked Katie if she’d be interested in becoming a staff writer for McClure’s.  Katie said she’d think it over after the article came out, because she suspected she’d be getting calls from other magazines and newspapers, maybe even network TV.
      David, meanwhile, was back up the Hudson tending his garden and ripping out an overgrowth of hogweed that had taken hold of a large patch of his land while he was gone.  He missed Katie and the adventure they’d had together, hoping something might develop where she needed his help again.
      At that moment he heard the honk of a small car at the end of his driveway.  He shielded his eyes and watched Katie Cavuto getting out of a shiny red Fiat.  She looked very happy.
      “So, what do you think of my new car?  Well, new used car. I didn’t know you can’t buy a new Fiat in America now.  I hope they come back.”
      “She’s a beauty,” said David, adding to himself, “So’s the car.”
      “I just thought I’d drive up here, show you my little car, a-a-n-n-d d . . . give you the first press copy of McClure’s with our article in it!”
      Katie held it out in front of her and David grabbed it, then gave her a hug and kiss on her cheeks.
      “Jesus, it really came out.  After all we went through.”
      “Impressive, eh? And the photos are terrific. They got a first-rate Italian photographer to shoot all the locations over there and some freelancer to shoot Capone’s house in Miami.”
      David flipped through the pages, and, yes, there were very good shots of Naples, Angri, the boat dock in Miami, even the Stella di Mare.”
      “And look at this,” said Katie, showing David a photo of the two of them together at the trattoria in Positano.
      “Where’d they get this?” David asked, laughing at how good they looked in it.
      “Remember I asked the waiter to take a picture of us? That’s one of them. Nick and Nora Charles!”
      David couldn’t think of anything to say except, “I can’t wait to read it,” then offered her coffee.
      “Absolutely,” she said. “You know, for all the great espresso and cappuccino we had in Italy, I kind of missed yours.”
      They went back to the house and David made the coffee, then they spread the magazine out on the table—Katie had brought three copies for him—and they pored through it like high school kids with a yearbook.
      After a couple of hours of reminiscing about events that seemed to have taken place years ago and so far away, Katie said, “Well, I’ve got to get going. Rev up the old Fiat.”
      David couldn’t bring himself to ask Katie if she was seeing the “lawyer guy” that evening.
      After a long embrace on David’s lawn, Katie said, “You’re a good cop, David Greco.”
      “That all?”
      “You’re a good man, too.”
      “Anything else?”
      Katie grinned. “And you’re going to make some woman a great husband.”
      David gave her a goodbye hug, and then she walked back to her car.
      David waved and called out, “Take care, Katie.”
      Then he watched her drive away until he couldn’t see her anymore.


The End





©
John Mariani, 2015





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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


CUVÉE PALOMAR IS A WINE MADE BASED
ON ENDURING CLIMATE CHANGE
By John Mariani




ABADIA RETUERTA


      In 1986 the European Union classified Spain’s wine regions into 17 autonomous appellations approved by the Instituto Nacional de Denominaciones de Origin, and in particular the reputation of the wines of the Ribera del Duero region, now with more than 300 wineries under that appellation. This created something of a problem for the highly regarded estate of Abadia Retuerta, whose winery was founded in 1996, whose 500 acres planted as vineyards lie outside the official Ribera del Duero appellation (within which the esteemed Vega Sicilia estate lies just five miles away).
     Winemaker/enologist
Ángel Anocibar (below) therefore decided to make a mark of its distinction by developing :
its own Pago (terroir) to produce one of Spain’s most prestigious wines. Its location also allowed it to use grape varietals not approved within the Ribera appellation. “Time has demonstrated we were right,” says General Manager Enrique Valero. In  2005 its Selección Especial 2001 won the International Wine Challenge in London as “the world’s best red wine.”

      This year Abadia Retuerta has released its Cuvée Palomar from the 2017 vintage, and I thought it time for Anocibar to explain the new blend and to assess the current global status of the Spanish wine market.

 

Tell me about what was intended by creating Cuvée Palomar.  And how it differs from what the estate has been making for 30 years.

      When you hear about our whole trajectory, it will become clear that the newly created Cuvée Palomar is the wine that brings together all our studies from over the years. With the new climatic conditions we are experiencing, the behavior of our Tempranillo, our identity, our native variety, has changed, and we felt it needed some help.
     The composition of this new Cuvée Palomar is based on the Tempranillo and its assemblage is rounded off with Garnacha, Malbec and Graciano to give it more aromatic complexity and a more balanced flavor. The addition of these varieties helps and balances the Tempranillos of this new era. Furthermore, the wine is aged for slightly longer in oak barrels to complete its refinement and hone its complexity.
         In the coming years we will have to keep an eye on climate change and whether it is getting even worse, as seems to be the case. We will continue to study the changes, in order to apply them to vineyard management. In many areas of Spain and elsewhere, new varieties are being authorized to mitigate these changes, while still maintaining the signature style of each area.  This new Cuvée brings along the spirit and the style of the old one, with purity, finesse and elegance. A totally different wine in style than, say, our Selección Especial.

 

When did you come to the estate and what were you challenged to do? Give me some of your background. 

      I joined the revived Abadía Retuerta project in 1996. Previously, I had studied in Bordeaux, where I completed my doctoral thesis. After two years of working in the area, Pascal Delbeck (the wine consultant for Abadía Retuerta and former winemaker of Château Ausone and Château Belair) recruited me for this project. The first task we did was to identify the different vineyard plots according to the variety planted, the type of soil, exposure, altitude. We identified 54 different plots, some of which are located around the monastery and the majority on the hillside. The winery was designed according to Pascal’s criteria, so that all of these plots could be worked on individually, with the utmost respect for the grapes themselves. They are naturally processed by gravity, without any pumping at all, as in the times of the old monks of the monastery.

 

How does the soil differ from Ribera del Duero?

     The autonomous community of Castilla y León covers a vast area in the north of Spain. It is made up of a high-altitude plateau (the northern part of the “meseta castellana”) with mountains to the north, east and south, and Portugal to the west. Ribera del Duero DO lies in the upper valley of the River Duero, and Abadía Retuerta is located right next to its western end.
      The bedrock in the area is basically limestone, with a sandy clay sub-layer and then a topsoil of stones (though in some areas the topsoil is sand). This tends to be free draining and low in organic matter, reducing the vigor of the vines. However, this changes a lot whether the vineyards are located in the fertile valleys close to the Duero River, on the slopes where soils are poorer, or up in the moorland, where you can find the shallowest soils with mother rock closer to the surface.
      The soils at Abadía Retuerta have certain features that differentiate them from most of those found in the Ribera del Duero. This is one of the reasons why Abadía Retuerta’s wine is about to be recognized as “vino de pago,” the maximum recognition of quality of the Spanish wines.
      Soils at Abadía Retuerta have a greater proportion of sand and gravel in the lower parts of the estate, with some proportion of clay. The water tables, due to the proximity to the river, ensure enough water supply as the roots have gone that deep in search of nutrients. There are some plots, or pagos, with even more than 90% of sand where surviving is almost a battle for the vines, producing radical wines with a lot of character. Lastly, in the mid and upper slopes, where 80% of the vines of Abadía Retuerta are planted, we find limestone sub-soils with sand and stones on the surface, the fine texture of these soils provide a good water retention throughout the entire cycle. 

How has climate change affected Spain generally and Abadía Retuerta specifically?

      This phenomenon is not new in the history of Abadía Retuerta. Between 1850 and 1950, the planet went through the “Little Ice Age,” a tremendously cold period that greatly changed the wines being produced. From then onwards, old texts only mention data on the production of red wines, as opposed to white wines. This cold period probably forced the inhabitants to look for a grape variety that ripened earlier, which is why we believe that this was the origin of the Tempranillo (Tempranillo, meaning “early”) in the region.
         Since our arrival in 1996, we have carried out a climate study from the 1960s to the present day. Since that time, the average temperature has risen 1.4ºC, which is bringing the harvest date forward considerably. Nevertheless, the important thing observed is that despite the tendency, each year is different, and our studies and experience of 25 vintages allow us to know/understand each vintage well and what would be the best way to manage it, comparing to similar ones and adding all that we have learned over the years. Rainfall has also changed over time, which has led us to study the real water reserves of the different plots. To that end, we have installed humidity sensors in the estate’s different soils.

 

How do you maintain sustainability?

      All our studies and experience to date allow us to save energy and water. We use organic practices throughout the vineyard, but we go even further: our knowledge of vine diseases means that we only intervene if the risk to the plants is high, thus minimizing the number of treatments. This criterion is also applied in the winery, where more than a third of the energy consumed comes from our solar panels, with more than 500 installed on the winery roof.
    Since 1996, we have carried out numerous ecological actions in order to favor bio-diversity and create naturally balanced habitats for the flora and fauna. More than 65,000 pine trees have been planted, and we drew up a forest management plan and obtained the PEFC certification. We fight against the processionary disease through the installation of nest boxes to encourage the breeding of birds, instead of using insecticides.
     The wasted water from the winery is taken to artificial lagoons, then depurated so we can use it back again for irrigation. We have also built small concrete ponds we periodically fill with water for the animals in the hottest months, and we have perceived a major increase of many different species thus the increase of natural balanced bio-diversity in the estate.
     We are also working with FIRE (International Foundation for the Restoration of Ecosystems) on different programs and took part in the Haprowine project, carrying out an energy audit that has enabled us to detect the points where we can reduce our energy consumption and therefore our CO2 emissions.
       We are as well recovering a Historic Pre-phylloxera vineyard, which we found accidentally in a forest area where the monks used to grow vines in the 19th century, prior to phylloxera, so we have an ancient clone of Tempranillo that has survived the harsh conditions of our terroir. We have also developed in 2019 our own vegetable garden that provide our restaurants with fresh produce, as did the monks.
      Last but not least, Abadía Retuerta also has created the Terroir Academy, a training program focused on sommeliers, to disseminate knowledge about viticulture, climate and grape varieties, not only applicable to our area but also around the world.

 

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AFTER FOUR HOURS' RESTING IT
GOES WELL WITH A BOTTLE OF COLD DUCK

From  “This Whole Duck Recipe Is Perfectly Imperfect” By Melissa Clark, NY Times (Dec. 15, 2021).

  • YIELD 4 servings
  • TIME 2 1/2 hours, plus at least 4 hours’ resting
 






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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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