MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  February 27, 2022                                                                                            NEWSLETTER


Founded in 1996 

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Penn Station, 1942 by Marjorie Collins

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IN THIS ISSUE
JAMES BOND'S TASTES:
DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
BAAZI

By John Mariani

ANOTHER VERMEER
CHAPTER NINE
By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
AN ARRAY OF NEW RED WINES
IN A RANGE OF PRICES
By John Mariani




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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. MARCH 2 at 11AM EST,I will be interviewing Peter Madonia,  formerly CEO of the Chairman of the Belmont Business Improvement District (BID) owner of the historic Madonia Bakery on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx. Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.






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JAMES BOND'S TASTES, Part Six:
DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER
 

By John Mariani


      Diamonds Are Forever (1956) was Ian Fleming’s fourth novel, adapted for the screen in 1971, starring Sean Connery after he’d left the series after You Only Live Twice. Fleming was inspired by a Sunday Times story about diamond smuggling, and it gave him the opportunity to send 007 to many locations where he had a good number of opportunities to wine and dine.
     The book’s plot involves Bond infiltrating the Spangled Mob smuggling ring in Sierra Leone by impersonating a smuggler himself. There he meets Tiffany Case, a gang member whose hatred for all men is due to being gang raped as a teenager. The action moves to the U.S. as Bond tracks down Seraffino Spang, head of the gang, at Saratoga Race Track in upstate New York, where 007 is told to bet on a rigged horse race in order to get his fee for smuggling in diamonds. Afterwards, he travels to Las Vegas to get his fee, which he obtains in a rigged blackjack game for which Tiffany Case is the dealer. Spang suspects Bond of being a plant and kidnaps him, bringing him to his private estate named Spectreville, where Bond is roughed up before he can escape on a railway push-car, with Spang following on an old Western train. Bond shoots Spang and, with Tiffany, heads for New York to board the RMS Queen Elizabeth. Onboard, two Spang thugs, named Wint and Kidd, seize Tiffany, but Bond rescues her and kills both gangsters. The story then returns to Sierra Leone, where Bond shuts down the diamond-smuggling pipeline and kills Spang in his helicopter.
      At the beginning of the story, Bond is staying at The Ritz (left) in London and takes his MI6 colleague Bill Tanner for a lunch of dressed crab and a “pint of black velvet” at Fleming’s favorite restaurant, Scott’s. The pint of black velvet is not the brand of whiskey by that name but a mix of stout,  ale and Champagne.
       While waiting to board his BOAC flight to New York from Shannon Airport in Ireland, Bond enjoys a steak and Champagne dinner, ending of with Irish coffee, a drink that originated at Foynes Dock, where during the war the seaplanes took off from. The concoction was created by chef Joe Sheridan in 1942 and featured as a promotion for Irish whiskey at Shannon as of 1947. It was introduced to the U.S. in 1952 at San Francisco’s Buena Vista Bar.
     In New York Bond dines upstairs with Felix Leiter at the Theater District restaurant Sardi’s (left), ordering martinis and Nova Scotia salmon that Fleming calls “a poor substitute for the product from Scotland,” followed by “brizzola” (braciola, Italian beef rolls) made with a California vermouth (“best I’ve ever tasted,” says Bond) and half a dressed avocado and espresso. The next day over lunch at ‘21’ Club (right) on West 52nd Street, Tiffany tells him she won’t sleep with him, saying, “It’s going to take more than Crabmeat Ravigote to get me into bed.  In any case, since it’s your check, I’m going to have the caviar and what you English call cutlets and some pink champagne.” The Champagne is a rosé Veuve Clicquot, which they enjoy with the veal cutlets, asparagus with sauce mousseline and white stingers (Cognac and white crème de menthe, potent cocktail that seems wholly out of place with dinner).   
      
The real life partner-owner of the restaurant, Pete Kriendler, who with his brother and Charlie Berns had opened ‘21’ during Prohibition, comes over to greet Tiffany as a regular, and she quips that his “little hot-dog stand isn’t doing too badly.” Tiffany does in fact pick up the check, inexplicably, but won’t renege on her promise to stay out of Bond’s bed, later telling him she has never slept with a man after the gang rape incident. The next day Bond dines alone at Voisin (above) on Park Avenue, then one of New York’s most luxurious French-Viennese restaurants, ordering two vodka martinis, eggs Benedict and strawberries.
     In the next chapter Bond leaves with Leiter for Saratoga, stopping along the way for a lunch at Chicken in the Basket on the Taconic Parkway, avoiding the “fresh mountain trout” that “had spent months in some distant deep-freeze,” instead ordering scrambled eggs with rye toast and iced coffee. In Saratoga he checks into the Sagamore Hotel, based on the original Pavilion Hotel (right), built in 1819, which was the most opulent of its time. (There is a Sagamore Resort on Lake George, but it is 60 miles from Saratoga Springs.) Bond takes a walk through town and drops into a local spot for two bourbons and a $4.50 fried chicken dinner. That evening he joins Felix at the Pavilion restaurant in the hotel for a meal of lobsters and martinis made with Cresta Blanca white vermouth. Bond also orders a bourbon with “branch water,” supposedly very pure water from a stream, which Bond notes is not going to be available in Las Vegas (although later a Vegas barman assures him he flies in branch water regularly from Boulder Dam!)
     When the action shifts to Vegas, 007 checks into the fictitious Tiara Hotel, ordering poolside a plate of cherrystone clams and a steak. After his escape with Tiffany from Spang, they head for the Beverly Hills Hotel (left), the famous “Pink Palace” opened in 1912 for Hollywood industry stars and filmmakers, but they soon must leave for the airport to fly  overnight on a Trans-World Airlines Super-G Constellation, Flight 93. Upon arriving in New York, they happily board the “great safe black belly” of the Queen Elizabeth.
      Tiffany suffers from sea sickness, but on the third night out, Bond meets her for martinis at the Observation Ba (below), and they plan to dine at the Verandah Grill. She still insists the Englishman is after “her family jewels,” as they sip vodka martinis, and she asks, “tell me what sort of woman you think would add to you.” Bond responds, “Somebody who can make sauce Béarnaise as well as make love,” causing her to ask him to take her to her stateroom. Bond returns to his cabin, there is a knock at the door, and a waiter brings in a quarter-bottle of Bollinger Champagne, a chafing dish with four slices of beef on toast, a small bowl of sauce Béarnaise and a note reading, “This sauce Béarnaise has just been created by Miss T. Case without any assistance from me. Signed, The Chef.”
      Location-wise, Bond in the movie meets hustler Plenty O’Toole at the Whyte House, owned by the character Willard Whyte, in the movie played by Jimmy Dean, (filmed at The Riviera, though the hotel façade was actually the Las Vegas International Hotel, later the Hilton). Plenty ends up thrown into the pool below Bond’s suite by three henchmen.  Bond was staying at The Tropicana but then moves to Tiffany’s suite at  the Whyte House. 
 
      



T
here is nothing close to the number of food and drink mentions in the 1971 movie of Diamonds Are Forever, whose plot line differs radically from the novel’s and occurs in 1970, with references to the Apollo moon landing. There are, though, three important incidents in the film involving Bond’s knowledge of wine.
      In the first, 007 is meeting with his boss M and Sir Donald Munger to discuss the South African smuggling operations. Munger hands Bond a glass of Sherry, but M refuses for “health reasons.” Bond sniffs the Sherry (above) and says, “Too bad about your liver, sir. It’s an unusually fine Solera, ‘51, I think.” M snorts, “There are no years for Sherry, 007,” to which Bond replies, “I was speaking about the original Sherry on which it is based . . . 1851.” Bond’s snarky remark refers to the fact that Sherries are made from a blend of various batches from a harvest’s barrels stacked in tiers, to be blended with other, older wines. So, Bond is referring to the harvest of 1851, a brandishing of his connoisseurship nearly impossible for anyone, even in the Sherry trade, to match.
      The second instance is when Bond, posing as a smuggler, visits Tiffany (Jill St. John) in her flat in Amsterdam, impersonating a smuggler she’s expecting. Tiffany invites him to pour himself a drink, and after he does so, she takes his glass and says, “I’ll get you some ice,” then out of sight dusts it for fingerprints, not knowing that he has replicated the man whose identity he has assumed with thin plastic adhesives of his fingerprints provided by his faithful MI6 inventor, Q (above).
       The last occurred while crossing the Atlantic—not on the Elizabeth, which had been taken out of service in 1968, but on the S.S. Canberra (left), which went into service in 1960 (and later served as a troop ship in the Falklands War of 1982). Two of Spang’s henchmen pose as waiters delivering Bond’s dinner of oysters Andaluz (fried with green chilies and chorizo), “tidbits of beef” shashlik on burning skewers,  breadsticks, Courvoisier Cognac, wine and a bombe surprise, which is, of course, an actual bomb.
      Suspicious of the two men, Bond inspects the wine bottle label, a Mouton-Rothschild (above), and says nonchalantly, “Hmm, for such a grand meal I rather expected a claret,” which is the British term for a red Bordeaux.
   The villain replies, “Unfortunately our cellar is poorly stocked with clarets.” Bond says, “But Mouton-Rothschild is a claret,” exposing the man on the assumption that a wine steward on a luxury liner would never make such a fundamental mistake, adding, “and I’ve smelled that aftershave twice before, and both times I smelled a rat.” 
     
The two villains attack Bond. One comes at him with the burning shashlik skewers; Bond smashes the bottle of Cognac and throws the contents at him, causing the man to burst into flames. The other man Bond flips over the side of the ship, with the bomb between the man’s legs. Bond watches the bomb explode and quips, "Well, he certainly left with his tail between his legs."

    

 




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NEW YORK CORNER

BAAZI

2588 Broadway
646-861-3859

By John Mariani
Photos by Evan Sung

 


         I’m not sure why there is such a current uptick in the number of fine new Indian restaurants around town and outside of the traditional Indian neighborhoods like Jackson Heights and Curry Hill, but I could hardly be happier to find them showing more and more regional and contemporary flair than in the past. Baazi, meaning “bet” in Hindi (as well as the name of a Bollywood action movie), is a significant entry and a departure, which is what I’ve come to expect from chef/owner Gaurav Anand (left), who for the past dozen years has opened a slew of restaurants both here and in New Delhi and Goa. In New York they have included Bhatti Indian Grill, Awadh and Moti Mahal Deluxe (which still does the best butter chicken anywhere).

      Anand is an ebullient fellow, bounding from the kitchen to the front door (there is outside dining) and from table to table, genially assisted by the engaging and lovely general manager Abla Atoubi. Baazi is set on two levels in a motif of royal blue and daffodil yellow, with a live olive tree inside and a wall of flowers. The bar is a smart place for Upper West Siders to meet, and, for once, I actually enjoyed the spiced-up cocktails, like the Old Monk Daiquiri with Old Monk 7-year aged Indian rum, pomegranate, lime, and a Spicy Ginger Margarita.

        The size of the menu makes perfect sense, just as the size of old-line Indian restaurants’ do not, filled with columns of dishes offering beef, lamb, chicken or shrimp cooked up in the same five sauces. At Baazi you find what you do not elsewhere, so the number of dishes—12 appetizers ($15-$26) and an equal number of main courses ($22-$29), all easy enough to share and to allow the kitchen to take the time focusing on their individuality.

     Peruse the menu and you’ll find dishes wholly new to New York, beginning with kali kachori ($15), a snack dish from Uttar Pradesh,  made with a charcoal cracker plumped up as moist lentil dumplings, along with chickpeas with aromatic mint, thick yogurt and pomegranate pearls.  Shakarkandi ($15) has nothing to do with the “Sharknado” comedies or candy: it is a chaat dish of crispy yams and fingerling potatoes dusted with chili lime and a sweet sour tamarind emulsion. If you like Indian paneer cheese dishes the ke sholey ($15) is a form of bread roll made with house made cottage cheese stuffed with raisins and a more cheese that is grilled. Papad kebab ($15) is presented in an elegant wooden box as a bite-size morsel of lentil cracker crusted with tangy Greek yogurt and a saffron aïoli.

      The only way I like to eat cauliflower is at Indian restaurants as aloo gobi ($16), a classic vegetarian dish at Baazi served with a sweet coating and onion seeds. Chicken cafreal ($19), whose origins in Goa derive from Portuguese merchants, is quite hearty for an appetizer, made with juicy Cornish hen marinated in mint and coriander.  So, too, the lamb ribs ($26) are delectably glazed with a sticky sweet tamarind-based sauce and the surprise of a coriander-sesame crunch (below). There are of course meat kebabs, here minced lamb patties breaded with papadum cracker crumbs with Greek tzatziki yogurt, pickle onions and the Tamil Nadu street bread paratha ($20).

      Although popular in India, you don’t expect to find cod (rohu) on an Indian menu in New York, but here it is as koliwada ($22), a Mumbai specialty of beautiful, succulent white cod with a salty and crispy okra and tartar sauce, while shrimp balchou (below) is another Goan dish of pan-seared prawn  with a very spicy, hot with chili pickle ($22).

      Anand does a vegetarian twist on butter chicken with his butter kala ($16) made with mushrooms and chickpeas. Butternut squash kofta with sweet corn curry, toasted pepitas and pumpkin oil ($16) is a gorgeous dish and will persuade any carnivore of the unique excellence of Indian vegetable curries.   

       Onion kulcha ($5) with whole wheat flour makes for a good side dish, and the basmati rice ($4) is flavored with lemon.

        Desserts, too, are far from the usual Indian sweets: a jalebi sandwich is a turn on the pastry funnel cake here with masala chai ice cream; Coconut sago payasam is a luscious dish of shaved roasted coconut, soft tapioca pearls, honey and served with mango sorbet.

      Baazi’s food by any name would be exciting, and as Indian food goes in  New York Anand is expanding the palette of the myriad styles of cuisine in the South with color, dash and tantalizing aromas, all served with exceptional grace.

 

Open nightly for dinner.

 


Note: NYC Health Dept. rules require both staff and guests 12 or older to  show proof they have received at least one dose of a COVID-19 vaccine.
 
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ANOTHER VERMEER

By John Mariani



To read previous chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to the archive


CHAPTER NINE


 


     Just as Katie had predicted,

 Alan Dobell readily agreed to

the Vegas trip—without even

reminding her of the ‘long

leash’ he’d put her on, saying,

“I wouldn’t mind, though, if you

 did get an interview with a

casino owner like Wynn as to

what he thinks this ‘new’ Las

Vegas is going to look like.”



   
    
Katie thanked him and, as she left the office, Dobell said, “And I’m not paying for that cop friend of yours to play blackjack out there.”

       “What about my Bingo cards?”

       “No more than three at a time.”

         The cheap United Airlines flight to Vegas, with a stopover in Chicago, was long and uncomfortable. Exhausted, Katie and David checked into the Baccarat Hotel & Casino on the Las Vegas Strip, jammed up against smaller, squat casinos on each side where hawkers stood outside shouting “FIRST DRINK FREE” and proffering massage parlor cards with pictures of young girls taken years before.

         The Baccarat was a rehab of one of the older, neon-besotted casinos in the city, like the Sands, the Flamingo and the Tropicana.  Katie and David had considered staying at the Mirage, but, after making contact with Steve Wynn, the hotel offered to comp them, which they could not accept.  They had not yet been able to contact Harry Balaton, but hoped they could, if Steve Wynn put in a word for them—or if they told Balaton that Wynn had already been interviewed about his art collection. 

         Their meeting with Wynn was the next morning. Katie and David walked through the Baccarat, past dozens of craps and Keno tables, blackjack counters, roulette wheels, bingo tables and lanes of hundreds of slots, amidst a cacophony of bells and chuggings, the sound of coins falling into the slots’ basins, yelps of instant exaltation and groans of repeated loss.  Cocktail waitresses wandered by on high heels some had not yet mastered on thick carpeting while carrying trays of drinks. David took a certain pleasure in pointing out which guys on the floor were plainclothes security.      “Know any place to eat around here?” asked Katie. “I’m starving.”
      
“The food in the casinos is never any good. It’s a little better to go outside and find a steakhouse.  I wouldn’t touch any of the Italian food out here with a ten-foot pole.”
        
“So, which one?”

         “The Golden Steer goes back to the ’50s and is kind of fun. Big red leather booths—one of them named ‘Sinatra’s’—and they claim to get a lot of celebrities, but I think most of them date back to the days when Bobby Darren was dating Sandra Dee.” (below)

         Katie said it sounded like fun. So, a half hour later she met David, who was wearing a blazer she’d seen a lot of. 

       She was wearing a black dress, whose hem stopped mid-thigh, and a string of pearls, her hair piled atop her head. As she approached David she put her arms up, twirled, and said, “Ta-dah!”

         “Well, look at you, Sandra Dee. You look perfect. Maybe we should ask for Sinatra’s booth tonight.”

           David was so happy to be with Katie, looking as she did, smelling lightly of a floral perfume, with just a little more make-up than she usually wore.  In heels, she was maybe a half-inch taller than he was.

           Katie didn’t really know much about Sandra Dee and couldn’t remember if she’d ever seen one of her movies, but she took the comparison as a high compliment from a man in his fifties who obviously thought Sandra Dee was pretty terrific.           For her part, Katie was delighted to be dining with David again, remembering the adventure they’d had the year before along the Amalfi Coast and how she always felt she was in very good company if anyone got out of line. Which came in handy at The Golden Steer an hour later.


         They didn’t get the Sinatra booth—it was reserved for an NFL quarterback and his party later that night—but, because Katie looked so beautiful, the maître d’ “decorated” the room by giving the couple a very good booth nearby.  David slipped him ten bucks.
      As they were settling in, three obviously drunk revelers in their thirties walked by their booth, checking Katie out, one of them giving a low whistle, the others chuckling over some off-color remark.  They walked on but the whistler turned on his heels, as if on a dance stage, and strutted back, putting his hands flat on Katie and David’s table and looking her straight in the eyes, saying, without glancing at David, “Don’t mind me asking, honey, but how’d you get hooked up with grandpa here?  You don’t look . . . the type.”

        David started to rise from the table, but Katie put her hand on his wrist and said to the guy, “No, but I am the type to stick this steak knife between your fingers and count to five.  I’ve already had one cocktail, so I don’t know how good my aim is. So I’d appreciate it if you’d just leave.”
        
The guy turned to David and said, “Well, pretty girl don’t need your help at all, does she, grandpa?”
        
Katie’s glance never varied and began the children's challenge game of quickly stabbing a knife blade between their fingers without looking. The man did not flinch.  She was counting, “. . . Two, three. . .”
        
The guy let out a muffled scream as the point of the knife just grazed his ring finger.
        
“Jesus Christ, you bitch, what the hell ya think you’re doing?” he yelled, wagging his hand in the air as his friends looked on.
        
At that point, David’s hand came out from under the table and came down on the guy’s knuckles and pressed them to the table. A small dribble of blood started to soak into the cloth.
        
“You’re done here, pal,” said David, “unless you want me to fix it so you’ll never throw craps again.”
        
The guy was gritting his teeth and said, “Okay, okay, let go!”
        
His two friends started for the table but before they could get there two security men from the restaurant—very big men—arrived and asked what the problem was.
        
The guy with the bloody finger said, “No problem, man, no problem. Just cut my finger on the knife. Lemme just wrap it up in this napkin, and I’m gone, okay?”
        
The security men looked at Katie and David and asked it they were all right.
        
“Like the man said, no problem,” David replied.
        
“Good,” said one of the security men. “I’ll just escort this gentleman over to our office and get him a Band-Aid. And we’ll have the waiter replace your tablecloth and napkins right away, sir.”
        
David said, “Good idea, and use a strong antiseptic. Thanks, Donny.”
        
The security men left, grabbing the drunk by his arms and escorting him away.
        
As two waiters rushed to their table with fresh linens, Katie looked at David wryly and said, “Gee, I thought I was handling that pretty well, not much blood.”

         “I was impressed,” said David, “but he was getting a little . . . fresh, and I thought he needed some persuasion to leave.  Of course, in the old days when I was still a cop, I could have slugged him, or whipped out my gun and pistol-whipped him, but, ah, those days are long gone.”
        
“Or maybe just shown him your badge?”
        
“That’s not as much fun.”
        
“By the way, you called the security guy ‘Donny?’”
        
“Oh, yeah, he used to be a cop out here I worked with on a couple of occasions. Retired like me, now doing security work.”
        
“You know an awful lot of cops everywhere, don’t you?”
        
“You put in twenty-five years on the job and you meet a lot of people.  Now, shall we order?”
        
They ordered two shrimp cocktails and the steaks were pretty good, they had to admit, and they ordered a decent bottle of wine from a mediocre, over-priced list.  For a moment they toyed with accepting the waiter’s suggestion of having flaming Cherries Jubilee, but Katie declined, saying, “I’m not sure I want all these people staring at us when the thing goes up in flames.”
        
“Why not?” said David, “They’re all going to go for it.”
        
Katie said she was tired, so they paid the bill and went back to the hotel.
        
“Nightcap?” asked David.
        
“Only if there’s one I can wear on my head in the room,” said Katie. “I’m really knocked out, with the flight and the cocktails and wine.  I’ll see you in the lobby. What, ten? Our appointment with Wynn is at eleven.”

    All David could muster was, “Sure. See you then.


 


©
John Mariani, 2016

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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR



                A Wide Array of New Red Wines



                        at a Wide Range of Prices

By John Mariani


          

Two of my favorite pastimes are to visit a local hardware store or a wine shop—not an

 overwhelming cavern like Home Depot, or some wine-stocked warehouse, but smaller

 venues where strolling through the aisles always reveals a new tool or a new wine I was

 unaware I needed. In wine shops I like to meet an owner who looks for unusual wines and

 good bargains that are not going to be found among best-selling bottles. If one is a regular,

 the shop owner will be eager to show you those new bottlings he is enthusiastic about

 within your budget. Here are some I’ve found and enjoyed recently.

 



Landmark Hop Kiln Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2018 ($85)—Founded in 1974 and committed strongly to Chardonnay until 1995, when they started making this Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir, Landmark acquired the Hop Kiln estate in 2016, where their best Pinot Noirs are now made. Its 14.2% alcohol is admirable and shows the wine’s finesse, while exhibiting the bold, fruity pleasure of Sonoma Pinots.

 

La Valentina ‘Spelt’ Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva  2018 ($23)—La Valentina is not associated with another, better known, Abruzzese producer named Valentino Valentini, and is a much younger winery, showing off why the wines of this eastern Italian region have attracted more and more attention.  "Spelt" is named for a local wheat variety. The wine is 100% Montepulciano and, while it doesn’t have the off-putting tannins of lesser examples, it still has an earthiness that matches up with grilled meats, especially rabbit.

 

Alois Lageder Schiava Alto Adige 2020 ($18)—Schiava is a red varietal grown in Italy and Germany, where it is called Trollinger or Vernatsch. It is really only planted far north and is rarely high in alcohol. Alois Lageder’s biodynamic issue is only 10% alcohol, so it’s easy to drink with appetizers and charcuterie, even a flavorful fish like salmon or mullet.

 

Justin Justification 2018 ($65)—You’ve got to like California Paso Robles blockbusters to appreciate this 15% alcohol Bordeaux-style blend of 66% Cabernet Franc and 34% Merlot, along the lines of Right Bank Bordeaux producers. It was barrel-aged for 20 months in new French oak, and, though the tannins are slightly tamed and the merlot gives it a certain mellowness, I’d hang onto this big red for another two to five years. Drink it now and do so with something cooked over an open fire outside.

 

Blackbird Vineyards Illustration 2017 ($135)—Unlike Justification above, Illustration achieves something of the same heft at only 14% alcohol, as a proprietary blend of 49% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Franc. Thus, the ballast of the Cabernet Sauvignon underpins the Merlot, rather than the other way around. It ain’t cheap, but it really has a fine balance of fruits, acids and tannins that have melded into an impressive Napa Valley red.


 

Tascante "Ghiaia Nera" Etna 2019 ($21)—The Tasca d'Almerita family is now in its third century and eighth generation with current scion Alberto Tasca. Tenuta Tascante estate (a combo of Tasca and Etna) was founded in 2007 with four parcels in the communes of Castiglione di Sicilia and Randazzo, with a cool, northern exposure. Ghiaia Nera (“black gravel'') is made from the indigenous Nerello Mascalese grape, known for its minerality from volcanic soil, which makes it a good marriage with hearty Southern Italian fare.

 

Arnione Bolgheri Campo alla Sughera Superiore 2016 ($45)—I’m seeing prices all over the place for this wine, from $25 to $55, so check before you buy. It is, though, a good price for a wine from Bolgheri in Tuscany’s most prestigious terroir. It has no Sangiovese in it, but instead a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It is, however, of a less dense, fruitier style of this combination, just shy of going over the 14.5% alcohol edge. The vineyard has low yields and 2016 was an excellent year. Very ready to drink right now with roasts or rich pastas.










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DEPT. OF THINGS NOT LIKELY TO HAPPEN

“Are Restaurants in Car Showrooms the Future of Fine Dining?”—By Joshua David Stein, Esquire.com (1/31/22)

















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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.




   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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