MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  June 12, 2022                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



Founded in 1996 

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"Chop Suey" by Edward Hopper  (1929)


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IN THIS ISSUE
DINING OUT IN DUBLIN,
PART ONE
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
NERAI

By John Mariani

ANOTHER VERMEER
CHAPTER 23
By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
MAKING AND MARKETING CHAMPAGNE IN A WIDE MARKET:
AN INTERVIEW WITH G.H. MUMM
By John Mariani




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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. June 15 at 11AM EDT,I will be interviewing Yale historian Paul Kennedy on his new book Victory at Sea. Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.









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DINING IN DUBLIN,
Part One


By John Mariani


Entrance to The Saddle Room at the Shelbourne Hotel

 


         Whether it was the pandemic or natural causes, including greed-driven landlords, Dublin’s restaurant scene has changed considerably over the past three years. The highly popular Coppinger Row was closed by a developer; the critically acclaimed Greenhouse is shuttered, as is Derry Clarke’s long-standing L’Écrivain and the acclaimed Thornton’s. The Tea Room at the Clarence Hotel is now a gastro-pub called Cleaver East.
     Fortunately, the city’s standard bearer for fine French cuisine, Patrick Guilbaud at The Merrion Hotel, is still doing well, the Brasserie at the Marker thrives,  Roly’s Bistro is always packed and Ananda is still one of Europe’s finest Indian restaurants.  The historic Shelbourne, (left; 27 St. Stephen’s Green),  which was taken over by Marriott, has never been in better shape, architecturally or gastronomically, after an eighteen-month restoration, now with 285 rooms.
     Located across from St. Stephen’s Green, the hotel opened in 1824 as three townhouses, named after William Petty, 2nd Earl of Shelburne. Its  most infamous moment was during the Easter Rising of 1916, when 40 British soldiers holed up there to oppose the rebels. In 1922 the Constitution of the Irish Free State was drafted in Room 112.
     Stately but so beautiful and well-lighted as to be wholly welcoming, the public rooms are decorated with superb Beaux Art sculptures by Mathurin Moreau. As you enter, on the left is No. 27 The Shelburne Bar, serving cocktails and light fare, including a fine shellfish platter; on the right is the sunny Lord Mayor’s Lounge, location for Dublin’s loveliest afternoon tea. There is also the Horseshoe Bar, opened in 1957, done in darker, pub-like colors and upholstery. Atop the main staircase the new 1824 Bar is a tad more sophisticated.
      And then there is the very elegant but not at all stuffy Saddle Room (right), L-shaped, with booths off a wonderful corridor opening into a long dining room impeccably set and pleasantly civilized. My first meal in Dublin was at the Saddle Room, and, within its calm and gentility, nothing could have cured my jet lag better with food of such a high caliber.
    Chef Gary Hughes sets what might be called a “proper menu,” drawing on the best Irish ingredients and balancing Irish tradition with classical refinement in dishes like a smooth terrine of slowly braised Grannagh ham with a tangy mustard aïoli and kohlrabi rémoulade. Luscious and silky cured Castletownbere salmon (below) comes on a sourdough crisp with a light buttermilk and horseradish emulsion.
      On the day I visited the soup of the day was a creamy wild mushroom potage with truffled foam. Among the main courses was Sherlock chicken as deeply flavorful as the best poultry I’ve had in France, with a crusted potato terrine, wild mushrooms and truffled cream. I had no complaints about the Daube of Charleville beef, gorgeously rosy and scented with rosemary, with roast chateau potatoes, a Burgundy wine reduction and Yorkshire pudding, except that I’m spoiled by American corn-finished beef over Europe’s less fatted grass-fed steers.
      The wine list is well constructed to appeal to those who have no desire to blow more than €100, with many bottlings below €50.  For dessert, Hughes sent out a delicately crisp meringue Pavlova (right) with mixed berries, and a crème anglaise with pear puree and rum-raisin ice cream.
      Such a lunch is bargain priced at two courses for €34, three for €38; at dinner dishes are offered à la carte with main courses €50 to €55 and a three-course table d’hôte at €65.
     

    The next day I was in more of a mood for good pub food, and fish and chips in particular. Such fare is widely available, and Beshoff’s, with several food shops, is famous for its version, but I felt more in need of an immersion into the buoyant atmosphere of a pub. A trustworthy recommendation was the Hairy Lemon (41-42 Stephen Street Lower), whose unappetizing name (after a bearded, yellow-faced dog catcher of the 1940s) was quickly forgotten on entering a packed pub with two dining rooms decorated with all the usual Bushmills and Guinness signs, blackboard menus and well-worn bar. The waitresses, who, as all over town, included several from eastern Europe, were fleet-footed and had just the right amount of sass.
       What came to the table was exceptionally crisp, golden fried cod  with tartar sauce and a mound of highly satisfying chips (French fries)(€17), as well as a hearty and abundant Irish stew made with juicy chunks of beef braised in Guinness and topped with puff pastry, sided with potato and brown bread  (€17).  Seen on many other tables were Bangers and Mash with onion gravy (€16).

      Somewhere in between dining at the Shelbourne and the Hairy Lemon is another oddly named restaurant, the award-winning Matt the Thresher (31-32 Lower Pembroke Street), a very handsome two-level, two-room city center seafood place near Merrion Square, with tiled and wooden floors, wrought-iron banisters, skylight and chandeliers, a great long marble bar with shining brass spigots, a bookshelf wall and a fireplace flanked by easy chairs. If I owned a restaurant, this is what it would look like.
      The restaurant is named after “Matt Donovan in Charles Cook’s book about the Houses of Tipperary and the characters who lived in them as of 1879 . . . Matt the Thresher famously won a sporting battle against the English officer Captain French near Birdhill in 1860.”
      The catch of the day is listed on blackboard menus and recited by exceptionally amiable waitresses. You can fill up on a variety of oysters from Carlingford, Connemara and elsewhere (a dozen for €35) or opt for a Dublin Bay prawn cocktail generously piled with fresh sweet crustaceans (€17.50). There are also seafood platters (€25 to €90). We ordered two of the night’s special fish dishes: snowy cod (right) came with a bean cassoulet and root vegetables on Savoy cabbage (€28.95), and stone bass was pretty beside beetroots and fennel salsa, mangetout, bean sprouts and a lush red pepper coulis (€33.95).
      Matt’s has a superb wine list with selections from all over the world, fairly tariffed and courteously poured. There is also an assortment of teas and coffees offered.
     For dessert you might prefer an Irish artisan cheese plate with raisin chutney (€8) or a delightful white chocolate and raspberry panna cotta (€8).
   




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NEW YORK CORNER


NERAI

55 East 54th Street
212-759-5554



 
By John Mariani

 

 

         Neraidais Greek” for “mermaid,” which, shortened to Nerai, is the prettiest name for a restaurant since Piraeus, My Love closed. Nerai has been around for a decade now,  and, while always a place of refinement, its acquiring of a new chef,  Aaron Fitterman, has elevated the cuisine even further without moving away from its roots.
     The two-story restaurant, with a charming covered patio and tables in a shed on the street, has never looked fresher and better, with flattering lighting set above the tables, making the whitewashed walls glow. Good napery drapes tables set with summer’s flowers—a great rarity these days in even the finest restaurants—and both banquettes and chairs are very comfortable, as is the noise level (left).
      On a rainy June night we dined under the patio’s rustic reed-thatched roof that was soon being pounded by a thunder-and-lightning storm that could have driven Odysseus, his “knee-joints slackened,” off course. The contrasting drama of the torrent with the cozy proceedings of our meal inside made it all the more comforting, and the fleet-footed waitstaff, overseen by manager Christopher Feeney, just ignored the gods’ tremors above us.
     The wine list, under sommelier Dimitrios Karagiannis, is lengthy and global, with, of course, a plethora of Greek wines, most at a reasonable mark-up, with many reds and whites under $100 you won’t readily find in stores.
      Chef Fitterman is assuredly not Greek, but his twenty years of experience at notable kitchens like Tabla, Five Points and, for the past eight years, as Executive Chef at Aretsky’s Patroon, inform his command of technique, especially with seafood, and Nerai’s owners, Spiro Menegatos and
Dinos Gourmos, have given him the nod to buy the highest quality products across the board. Unlike the astonishing high tariffs at Estiatorios Milos on the West Side, where fish is priced by the pound; at Nerai it’s a set price.
     You might well start off with a trio of traditional spreads with grilled pita ($23). (By the way, pita at Greek restaurants usually comes to the table as complementary bread; at Nerai, you’ll have to ask for it.) I highly recommend the individually wrapped little spinach tarts mixed with dill and feta and ouzo-laced yogurt ($18). Greek salads are often a big mess of pre-prepared ingredients but at Nerai they are pleasingly made to order ($22) with tomatoes, feta, cucumber, onions, olives and tomato butter, although tomatoes are far from their best this time of year.
     The kataifi shrimp (above) is a generous number of fat, sweet crustaceans wrapped in kataifi shredded pastry, with sansho peppercorns and thick Greek honey ($24). You can find tuna tartare all over town, but here it is done in a spicy new way, with diced yellowfin over potato kataifi served with tarama espuma and sherry vinaigrette ($28).
      You expect grilled octopus to be on a Greek menu and Nerai's is excellent, served over Santorini fava beans with caramelized onions, roasted red peppers and capers ($29).
       There is a raw section of the menu with shellfish and crudi, and some applaudable pastas I had not expected, including summery lemon gnocchi  with chanterelles, feta, spinach and pine nuts ($29), and a truly outstanding mounting of abundant lobster with squid ink linguine (above) in a Metaxa bisque ($46).
     Grilled seafood is always the way to go at Mediterranean restaurants,  where you trust they will be expertly cooked to succulence, as is the lavraki (left) with sautéed spinach ($42), and the firm-fleshed halibut (above), pan-roasted à la polita with artichokes, saffron pickled onion and mint ($48). I asked Fitterman why he is bothering to serve salmon in a Greek restaurant and got the answer I expected: He sells tons of it.
      Fitterman has not, however, acceded to serving inferior lamb, but is buying some of the finest Colorado lamb chops I’ve had in years, so flavorful, with a fine char on the bones, served over melitzanosalata with marinated eggplant, Samos currants, pine nuts and lamb jus ($52).
       His duck “moussaka” is a delicious dish made with pan-seared duck breast over beluga lentils and chanterelles fig jus ($44), but it bears no resemblance at all to the layered Greek lasagna that is moussaka. Better he should ditch the name or add a true moussaka to the menu. By the way, a side of lemon-drenched potatoes ($12) is definitely in order for the table.
      It’s always tempting just to savor some rich Greek yogurt for dessert, and Nerai offers a trio at $12. But I wouldn’t want you to miss the sokolatina, a milk chocolate mousse and flourless chocolate cake with  raspberries and  vanilla gelato ($16), or the karidopita, a luscious walnut cake (right) soaked with  milk and honey glaze with a Greek yogurt gelato ($14). Of course, there is well-rendered baklava, with a tahini parfait and vanilla gelato ($15).
      Like many Italian trattorias in the U.S., Greek restaurants tend towards a casual, taverna style, both in design and menu. Nerai has always aimed higher in both, and, after ten years, with an enthusiastic new chef, it is certainly among the ranks of the finest French and Italian restaurants in New York. And rain or shine, it’s going to make you feel you are in a special place.

 

Open Mon.-Fri. for lunch and dinner; Sat. & Sun. for dinner.

 



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ANOTHER VERMEER

By John Mariani



To read previous chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to the archive
 

CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE

 

      Robert Lauden’s injuries were significant, but not life-threatening—his left  arm was smashed, his hip broken, three cracked ribs—so he was in a great deal of pain, but not enough to prevent him from calling Katie to thank her and ask her to visit him in the orthopedic wing of New York’s Hospital for Special Surgery (left), to which he was a consistent donor.
         David accompanied her to the hospital the day after the accident and found the billionaire sitting up in bed, heavily bandaged on his left side, with dark gray-blue-and-red bruises on the skin.  He looked drowsy.
         “How are you feeling?” asked Katie.
         “Ah, they’re doing wonders with pain killers these days!” said Louden. “You know, I never took recreational drugs, but these things do have their virtues.” He shook his head, crossed his eyes and waggled his tongue, then thanked Katie profusely for saving his life.
         “I’m glad to hear you’re in good spirits,” Katie said, then introduced David Greco as someone helping with her story.
         “You are a New York police officer?” asked Louden.
         “Retired, just helping Katie with her research,” said David.
         “So tell me what you know about this creep that hit me and drove away.”
         “Turns out he’s attached to the Chinese embassy,” (below) said David. “The police caught up with him within half an hour.”
         “The Chinese embassy? (right) And they have him in custody?”
         “Not yet. He and the embassy are claiming diplomatic immunity.”
         “Diplomatic immunity? The guy practically kills me, then leaves the scene. Diplomatic immunity covers that?”
         “I’m afraid it might, depending on the Chinese. The guy doesn’t seem to be high up; he’s not the ambassador but seems to be part of their delegation at the U.N.”
         “That’s unbelievable!” shouted Louden. “Who’s leading the investigation?”
         “NYPD. It’s their jurisdiction, but I suspect the feds will try to arrest this guy and have him tried, but it’s going to be tough.”
         “He can just get away with smashing into me and driving off?  I could have been killed.”
         David glanced at Katie and said, “It’s very possible. You can’t believe what these embassy people have gotten away with, and I’m not just talking about a few hundred parking tickets. Back in the eighties a Libyan embassy worker opened fire on a mob of anti-Gaddafi protesters outside the embassy. Killed a cop—I knew her—and wounded ten others.  After an eleven-day siege of the embassy by NYPD, the embassy shipped the guy back to Libya and he was never heard from again.
         “Another time a Burmese ambassador shot his wife for having an affair, then burned her body on a funeral pyre in his backyard.  He was never convicted and remained the Burmese ambassador.”
         “I can’t believe this,” said Louden, shaking his head. “You know, I’ve worked with a lot of powerful Chinese officials over the years. I’m going to call every goddamn one of them and make them do something.”
         Louden was well aware that the incident was a hit-and-run felony, but he had not considered it was an assassination attempt. He had not yet been interviewed by NYPD.
         “Mr. Louden,” asked Katie, “do you have any reason to suspect this was not an accident?”
         “You mean that the guy intended to kill me?  A guy from the Chinese embassy who couldn’t possibly get away?”
       “I know it sounds bizarre, and maybe the guy just panicked and drove away thinking his embassy would protect him.  But he didn’t even brake or stop at all when he hit you. He just hit you and kept driving. It seems difficult to believe anybody who accidentally hits a person on the sidewalk wouldn’t at least stop for even a split second to consider what he’d done, even if he panicked and drove off.”
         “I have to agree with Katie,” said David. “There’re only two kinds of hit-and-run incidents: an accident or an attempted murder. Now, like Katie said, maybe the guy thought if he got back to his embassy he’d get sanctuary there.  But from what Katie saw, it appeared he gunned his car, hit you and had every intention to keep on going.”
         “Just like that?” asked Louden. “Even if he intended to murder me, you think he was just waiting, parked on the street in case I come out of my house?  Gramercy Park’s security people are very suspect of any cars they don’t know.”
         “Yes, but he had diplomatic plates. With those, he can park anywhere he wants whenever he wants.  If he gets towed, his embassy just sends someone to pick up the car.  No fine, no penalty.”
         “And, as for his waiting for you to come out of your house,” added Katie, “you did tell me that you take a long walk in the park every day at eleven o’clock.”
         Louden’s face fell. “Oh, my God, you’re right. I do that every day.  He must have been tracking me in advance.”
         “So let me ask you again, Mr. Louden,” said David. “Is there anyone you know who would want to murder you?  Anyone at all?”
         “I’m not going to joke around about this. No, I can’t think of anyone—least of all a Chinese embassy delegate—who’d want me dead. Sure, I have people who hate my guts, largely for business reasons, but this connection to the Chinese makes no sense whatsoever.”
         At that moment there was a slight knock at the hospital room door, and two NYPD officers, one plainclothes, asked if they might come in. They saw David, and the plainclothes detective said, “Greco, what are you doing here?  I thought you were planting flowers up the Hudson.”
         “How’s it going, Jimmy? Long time no see. How’s Lynn and the kids?”
         The niceties were brief and the detective, Jimmy McCann, apologized to Louden, introduced himself and his partner and asked if he would agree to an interview. Louden looked at David, who nodded okay, and replied, “I guess so. Not too long, though. I may fall asleep on you, and I don’t want to miss the delicious lunch they serve me, the one I refuse to eat.”
         McCann told his partner, “Why don’t you get the preliminary info with Mr. Louden?  I want to speak to my old friend here.”
         David and Jimmy McCann had known each other for a decade and even worked on a few mob cases together.  McCann was a few years younger than David but close to retirement.
         “So, David, what are you doing here with a good-looking woman half your age?”
         “She’s not half my age, Jimmy, all right?  Anyway, she’s a reporter for McClure’s magazine . . .”
         “Oh, the Capone case!  Yeah, I read that. Didn’t believe everything in the story, but, hell, made you into a kinda hero. I expect you made some money, too.”
         “It was a good chunk of change.”
         “So, listen, David, what are you doing in this hospital room interviewing a injured gay billionaire?”
         “I’m helping Katie with another story. Louden is a big art collector and Katie was interviewing him at the time of the incident. Saw him get hit, copied down the license plate.”
         “What’s the story about?” asked McCann.
         “Not that you’d know anything about this, but there’s a big deal painting by a Dutch artist coming up for auction, and Louden is probably going to be one of the bidders.”
         “And you just came by with your girlfriend to chat with the guy?”
         David just shrugged. He was not about to tell McCann his theory about someone trying to put potential bidders on the Vermeer out of commission.  McCann’s job was to find out what happened yesterday and work with the authorities to get the Chinese delegate—whose name they’d already found out was Chin—out of the embassy and into interrogation.
      “Yeah, good luck with that,” said David.
         “I know, I know. I’m just here to get Louden’s statement and then it all gets handed over to the top brass, or probably the F.B.I.  Chin will walk; you know that. So, let’s you and me and Lynn and your girlfriend have dinner together sometime soon, eh?”
         “Love to,” said David, knowing that would probably never happen. Cops don’t care much to sit around and hear retired cops’ stories, and wives really hate it.
         McCann returned to Louden’s bedside, where the other officer was asking questions. David silently indicated to Katie they should leave, and when they turned to do so, Louden said, “Katie, come visit anytime.  And Katie, thank you, thank you, thank you again for saving my life.”
         David said to her outside, “Something tells me you’re going to get a nice present from Louden.”
         “Which I can’t accept, if it’s over $25.”
         “Well, then, you’re definitely not going to be able to accept it.”
       Having turned off their cell phones in the hospital, when Katie and David turned them on there were multiple messages.  Katie had a call from her editor Dobell; David had one from Kiley.
       Dobell was just calling to nudge Katie to give him enough news so as not to pull the leash back.
         “Gerald, you called?” asked David.
         “Yes, I got through to the medical examiner in Tokyo about the Saito autopsy.”
         “And?”
         “And it was inconclusive.”
         “Was it a forensic or a clinical.”
         “As far as I can tell—the guy spoke lousy English—clinical. They think Saito died of natural causes, heart failure maybe, although he seems to have gone into shock. They found he had heart disease—he was a big smoker—and had apparently contracted syphilis when he was a young man and apparently didn’t get treatment for that until he was much older.  Oh, they found some traces of arsenic in his blood, which was probably used to treat the syphilis. And that’s about it.”
         "They treat syphilis with arsenic?"
         “I guess in Japan they do. I’m not a forensic scientist.”
         “But there were just traces, they told you.”
         “As far as I could make out, the way the guy talked.”
         “Well, that’s something of interest.  But as far as it goes, Gerald, they found no evidence of foul play in his death?”
         “No, they closed the book on Mr. Saito. A lot of people apparently said good riddance.”
         “Okay, thanks a million for making the call. I owe you big time. Let’s keep in touch with what both of us find out.”
         Drawing back into his official voice, Kiley replied, “I’ll give you what I can.”
         “By the way, have you heard about the hit-and-run incident yesterday on Robert Lauden?  Turns out the driver is attached to the Chinese embassy.”
         “Jesus Christ! No, I hadn’t read that. This is getting weird, David.”
         “It sure is,” said David and he filled in all the details he had thus far and how the NYPD had tried to arrest the man named Chin, who was safely protected inside the embassy, over on Twelfth Avenue. 
        
“Would Interpol get involved in something like getting him out of there?”
         “Again, if there’s a proven crime that relates in some way to an international scheme, maybe. Otherwise, that’s strictly the F.B.I.’s ballpark.  Hey, maybe you should call Frank English, see what he knows.”
         David groaned and said, “I hate asking Frank for any more favors.”
         “I’ll do it then and let you know what he says. He’ll probably ask about you.”
         “Give him my love.”




©
John Mariani, 2016



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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


THE STATE OF CHAMPAGNE:
An Interview with G.H. Mumm


By John Mariani

 

With so many sparkling wine competitors in the world market, from Spain, Italy and California, Champagne has managed to maintain a healthy growth rate, even with the introduction of smaller estates in Reims and Epernay joining the big established marques. To assess the current state of Champagne, I interviewed Laurent Fresnet, Cellar Master at G.H. Mumm,  while he was visiting New York last month.

 


Can you to describe Mumm’s distinctiveness among Champagne houses without using the cliche “elegant”—how Mumm differs in style, taste, etc from others?

I tend to sum up Mumm’s style as “the celebration of Pinot Noir.” This grape variety is the signature of the house and the backbone of all our cuvées. This allows us to produce fresh, vibrant, and complex champagnes, expressing the full richness of the Champagne terroirs. From the outset, we have always held our champagnes in the highest regard, always putting quality first. This approach would be encapsulated in our “only the best” motto coined by Georges Hermann Mumm, and in today’s innovative approach to winemaking and vineyard management.

Mumm was one of the pioneers in the 19th century to purchase grapes rather than juice from local growers. What percentage of Mumm’s production comes from these growers today?

Maison Mumm’s own vineyards cover 218 hectares. The vineyards, in which Pinot Noir is highly dominant (78%), particularly in the Montagne de Reims, spread over the Grand Cru vineyards of Cramant and Avize devoted to Chardonnay in the Côte des Blancs and the Vallée de la Marne, where Meunier prevails.
    To answer Maison Mumm's production needs, we work with partner winegrowers who supply us with grapes. This represents up to 75% of our needs, depending on the year, which is a rather low share for a Grande Maison. This allows us to get grapes from a variety of terroirs where we do not own plots, and thus ensure the expression of the richness of Champagne year after year. 

When were the Grand Cru sites established?

The official échelle des crus Champagne vineyard classification of 1911, which is still in use today, rates vineyards in relation to criteria such as soil quality, exposure to the sun, and grape varieties planted. Out of a total of 319 communes, this classification identifies seventeen villages as Grands Crus (the very best terroirs in the Champagne region) and 42 other villages as Premiers Crus. At Maison Mumm, our vineyard is ranked 98 on the Champagne quality scale. Out of 218 hectares, 160 hectares are classified as Grands Crus and are situated in eight historic villages whose grapes express all of the authenticity of the Champagne region’s best terroirs: Aÿ, Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mailly, Avize, and Cramant.

 

If every house strives to make their Champagne taste precisely the same each year, because the customers enjoy that particular house style, why are there so many variants (besides vintage years), which would by their very nature taste somewhat different? What is the price spread between the basic Cordon Rouge and others?

The consistency in taste is only for non-vintage cuvées; the objective is to produce year after year the same cuvées. With vintage cuvées, we want to maintain a certain style for each cuvée but also showcase the expression of the year. We have a range of cuvées, all different, all showcasing what I call a “different personality.” In the case of Mumm, we want each cuvée to reveal a different facet of Pinot Noir, our signature grape variety. All those cuvées answer to different taste preferences and different occasions. 

 

How is Mumm devoted to sustainability?

For a Champagne house like us, sustainability starts in the vineyards. As a native of Champagne and owner of a family vineyard, taking care of the land is crucial for me and something that I want to ensure for Maison Mumm. In 2016, 100% of Maison Mumm vineyards obtained a double certification for Sustainable Viticulture in Champagne and High Environmental Value. Whereas the Champagne region as a whole aims to stop using chemical herbicides by 2025, Maison Mumm is one of the first champagne houses to have already done so, having implemented a zero-herbicide policy on its own parcels at the beginning of 2016. In its quest to eliminate herbicides and improve the working conditions of its employees in the vineyards, Maison Mumm is one of the first champagne houses to adopt Bakus, a robot designed by a Reims-based startup, Vitibot, which assists winegrowers in tending the vines, most notably with the physically demanding task of weeding. The house is exploring other means to reduce its environmental footprint, through growing practices and machinery, such as the use of green fertilizers, alternative treatments, confined spraying, and electric trimming trolleys.
    Since 2021, we have dedicated part of our vineyard for experimentation with a new viticultural model—“regenerative viticulture.” The objective of this approach is to ensure the health and quality of our soils, as well as foster biodiversity, mitigate climate change, and reduce soil erosion. We start by analyzing the soil's needs, and based on the need, we introduce new cultures (clovers, legumes, flowers, …) that will help the soil. This is a very innovative and new approach to traditional viticultural practices.  But we do not limit our commitment to the vineyard and try to reduce our impact at all stages of production, including winemaking. We are, for example, the first house in Champagne to invest in wine stabilization through electrodialysis, having recently acquired a new vat room machine for the purpose. This is an important investment for the house that allows energy savings of approximately 85%.

Global warming is not always a bad thing (yet) for cooler climate vineyards. How has it affected the Champagne region?

The impact of global warming is already concrete in Champagne. We see more and more disruptions in climate and an acceleration in recent years. With higher temperatures and warmer winters, we tend to see the flower blooming earlier, creating stronger risks of spring frost. But we also tend to see the period between the flower and the harvest as considerably shorter. When it was approximately 100 days, with harvest in early October, 20 to 30 years ago, today it is more around 85 days, with August harvests becoming the norm.
    The bigger risk for Champagne is the reduction of the acidity and a disbalance between acidity and sugar. This balance is crucial to maintain the characteristic freshness of Champagne and its long potential for aging. I work a lot with the vineyard teams to ensure the management of our vines and extremely precise monitoring of the grapes prior to the harvest. 

 

When did Mumm begin to make a prestige Cuvée?

In the history of Mumm, there have been several prestige cuvées produced. The current, Mumm RSRV Cuvée Lalou was created in 1969, paying tribute to René Lalou, director of Mumm between 1940 and 1973. This cuvée is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, 100% Grand Cru, from a selection of only 12 pristine plots, with an aging of a minimum 8 years, making it the rarest and finest of the Mumm collection.

 

Too often the Champagne industry warns that there will be a shortage (e.g., the Millennium), but there seems always to be millions of bottles available. Is there ever really a shortage, especially since there are so many smaller producers in the market?

The Champagne appellation is strictly limited geographically and in terms of yields. Therefore, we have only a limited quantity of Champagne available. The current booming demand and the last 2 years of low yields create tensions between demand and supply.  Champagne is a long process that takes time, between 2 to 8 years for a bottle at Mumm. We work closely with all our customers and distributors to ensure a smooth distribution of our products all around the world, but at the same time, we must ensure quality and we do not comprise on quality by reducing the aging phases for example. 

Spanish cava, Italian proseccos, and California sparklers have had an enormous impact over the last decade in the sparkling wine market. How has that affected Champagne?

Champagne is Champagne. The terroir, the climate, and the savoir-faire are unparalleled and the style inimitable. For me, there is room for all types of sparkling wines, and I do not see the others as competitors, but more as a complementary offer for different occasions.  

Is there a conscious effort to maintain a price level in the face of such competition?

As mentioned earlier, Champagne is a demanding and long process, with grapes coming from a very limited geographic area, so I let you do the math,  but producing Champagne is expensive, especially fine Champagnes like Mumm’s. 

Is there really such a difference between a basic label and a prestige Cuvee that may cost hundreds of dollars?

The price difference between a classic non-vintage cuvée like Mumm Grand Cordon and a prestige cuvée like Mumm RSRV Cuvée Lalou comes from the rarity and the demanding process, especially the long aging on lees. Mumm RSRV Cuvée Lalou is produced from only a maximum of 12 pristine plots and only the best years. We have only produced 17 vintages since 1969. This cuvée ages a minimum of 8 years on lees, allowing the development of character and deep complexity.

What meats work with Champagne?

For me, Champagne is first and foremost a wine, and tasting Champagne during a meal is the best way to enjoy both!  We work with a lot of talented chefs to create the best pairings. Champagne and meat can pair very well, even red meat. I love a barbecue grilled steak with a glass of rosé champagne like Mumm Grand Cordon Rosé or Mumm RSRV Rosé Foujita. Poultry and white meat like veal pair perfectly with brut champagnes like our Mumm Grand Cordon, the freshness and delicate texture are very complementary. Lamb with a light spicing can work very well with 100% Pinot Noir Champagne like our Mumm RSRV Blanc de Noirs. I always encourage our customers and chefs to be bold and dare new pairings!

 


 
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WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND HER NEXT MEAL SHOULD
 BE FROM FRANK ZAPPA'S WEASELS RIPPED MY FLESH.


“I’m single, and I’ve been single for one million years, and want to judge these lyrics on their merits. To do so, I ate and drank my way through every food and beverage reference on the album, treating myself the way Styles treats whoever it is he’s singing about, which is probably Wilde. I’m just sticking to those and not the lyrics about gummies, coke, and pills, because apparently it’s against company policy to expense drugs. In the sensual spirit of Harry’s House, let’s rate the album based on how it tastes.”—Rebecca Alter, “I Ate All the Lyrics of Harry’s House,” Vulture (5/27/22)

 





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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas

John Curtas has been covering the Las Vegas food scene since 1995. He is the author of EATING LAS VEGAS - The 52 Essential Restaurants, and his website can be found at www.EatingLV.com. You can find him on Instagram: @johncurtas and Twitter: @eatinglasvegas. 



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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