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Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE "Chop Suey" by Edward Hopper (1929)
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IN THIS ISSUE DINING OUT IN DUBLIN, PART ONE By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER NERAI By John Mariani ANOTHER VERMEER CHAPTER 23 By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR MAKING AND MARKETING CHAMPAGNE IN A WIDE MARKET: AN INTERVIEW WITH G.H. MUMM By John Mariani ❖❖❖ On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. June
15 at 11AM EDT,I will be
interviewing Yale historian Paul Kennedy
on his new book Victory at Sea. Go
to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖ DINING IN DUBLIN, Part One By John Mariani Entrance to The Saddle Room at the Shelbourne Hotel Whether it was the pandemic or natural
causes, including greed-driven landlords,
Dublin’s restaurant scene has changed
considerably over the past three years. The
highly popular Coppinger Row was closed by a
developer; the critically acclaimed Greenhouse
is shuttered, as is Derry Clarke’s long-standing
L’Écrivain and the acclaimed Thornton’s. The Tea
Room at the Clarence Hotel is now a gastro-pub
called Cleaver East. The
next day I was in more of a mood for good pub
food, and fish and chips in particular. Such fare
is widely available, and Beshoff’s, with several
food shops, is famous for its version, but I felt
more in need of an immersion into the buoyant
atmosphere of a pub. A trustworthy recommendation
was the Hairy
Lemon (41-42
Stephen Street Lower), whose unappetizing
name (after a bearded, yellow-faced dog catcher of
the 1940s) was quickly forgotten on entering a
packed pub with two dining rooms decorated with
all the usual Bushmills and Guinness signs,
blackboard menus and well-worn bar.
The waitresses, who, as all over town, included
several from eastern Europe, were fleet-footed and
had just the right amount of sass. ❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
NERAI 212-759-5554 By John Mariani “Neraida”
is Greek” for “mermaid,” which, shortened
to Nerai, is the prettiest name for a restaurant
since Piraeus, My Love closed. Nerai has been
around for a decade now, and,
while always a place of refinement, its acquiring
of a new chef,
Aaron Fitterman, has elevated the cuisine
even further without moving away from its roots. Open Mon.-Fri. for
lunch and dinner; Sat. & Sun. for dinner. ❖❖❖
ANOTHER VERMEER CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE
Robert Lauden’s injuries were
significant, but not life-threatening—his left arm
was smashed, his hip broken, three cracked
ribs—so he was in a great deal of pain, but
not enough to prevent him from calling Katie
to thank her and ask her to visit him in the
orthopedic wing of New York’s Hospital for
Special Surgery (left), to which he was
a consistent donor. © John Mariani, 2016 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE
STATE OF CHAMPAGNE:
An Interview with G.H. Mumm By John Mariani With so
many sparkling wine competitors in the world
market, from Spain, Italy and California,
Champagne has managed to maintain a healthy growth
rate, even with the introduction of smaller
estates in Reims and Epernay joining the big
established marques. To assess the current state
of Champagne, I interviewed Laurent Fresnet,
Cellar Master at G.H. Mumm, while he
was visiting New York last month.
Can you to describe
Mumm’s distinctiveness among Champagne houses
without using the cliche “elegant”—how Mumm
differs in style, taste, etc from others? I tend to sum up Mumm’s
style as “the celebration of Pinot Noir.” This grape
variety is the signature of the house and the
backbone of all our cuvées. This allows us to
produce fresh, vibrant, and complex champagnes,
expressing the full richness of the Champagne
terroirs. From the outset, we have always held our
champagnes in the highest regard, always putting
quality first. This approach would be encapsulated
in our “only the best” motto coined by Georges
Hermann Mumm, and in today’s innovative approach to
winemaking and vineyard management. Mumm was one of the
pioneers in the 19th century to purchase grapes
rather than juice from local growers. What
percentage of Mumm’s production comes from these
growers today? Maison Mumm’s own vineyards
cover 218 hectares. The vineyards, in which Pinot
Noir is highly dominant (78%), particularly in the
Montagne de Reims, spread over the Grand Cru
vineyards of Cramant and Avize devoted to Chardonnay
in the Côte des Blancs and the Vallée de la Marne,
where Meunier prevails. When were the Grand
Cru sites established? The official échelle des
crus Champagne vineyard classification of
1911, which is still in use today, rates vineyards
in relation to criteria such as soil quality,
exposure to the sun, and grape varieties planted.
Out of a total of 319 communes, this classification
identifies seventeen villages as Grands Crus (the
very best terroirs in the Champagne region) and 42
other villages as Premiers Crus. At Maison Mumm, our
vineyard is ranked 98 on the Champagne quality
scale. Out of 218 hectares, 160 hectares are
classified as Grands Crus and are situated in eight
historic villages whose grapes express all of the
authenticity of the Champagne region’s best
terroirs: Aÿ, Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay,
Mailly, Avize, and Cramant. If every house
strives to make their Champagne taste precisely
the same each year, because the customers enjoy
that particular house style, why are there so many
variants (besides vintage years), which would by
their very nature taste somewhat different? What
is the price spread between the basic Cordon Rouge
and others? The consistency in taste is
only for non-vintage cuvées; the objective is to
produce year after year the same cuvées. With
vintage cuvées, we want to maintain a certain style
for each cuvée but also showcase the expression of
the year. We have a range of cuvées, all different,
all showcasing what I call a “different
personality.” In the case of Mumm, we want each
cuvée to reveal a different facet of Pinot Noir, our
signature grape variety. All those cuvées answer to
different taste preferences and different
occasions. How is Mumm devoted
to sustainability? For a Champagne house like
us, sustainability starts in the vineyards. As a
native of Champagne and owner of a family vineyard,
taking care of the land is crucial for me and
something that I want to ensure for Maison Mumm. In
2016, 100% of Maison Mumm vineyards obtained a
double certification for Sustainable Viticulture in
Champagne and High Environmental Value. Whereas the
Champagne region as a whole aims to stop using
chemical herbicides by 2025, Maison Mumm is one of
the first champagne houses to have already done so,
having implemented a zero-herbicide policy on its
own parcels at the beginning of 2016. In its quest
to eliminate herbicides and improve the working
conditions of its employees in the vineyards, Maison
Mumm is one of the first champagne houses to adopt
Bakus, a robot designed by a Reims-based startup,
Vitibot, which assists winegrowers in tending the
vines, most notably with the physically demanding
task of weeding. The house is exploring other means
to reduce its environmental footprint, through
growing practices and machinery, such as the use of
green fertilizers, alternative treatments, confined
spraying, and electric trimming trolleys. Global warming is
not always a bad thing (yet) for cooler climate
vineyards. How has it affected the Champagne
region? The impact of global
warming is already concrete in Champagne. We see
more and more disruptions in climate and an
acceleration in recent years. With higher
temperatures and warmer winters, we tend to see the
flower blooming earlier, creating stronger risks of
spring frost. But we also tend to see the period
between the flower and the harvest as considerably
shorter. When it was approximately 100 days, with
harvest in early October, 20 to 30 years ago, today
it is more around 85 days, with August harvests
becoming the norm. When did Mumm begin
to make a prestige Cuvée? In the history of Mumm,
there have been several prestige cuvées produced.
The current, Mumm RSRV Cuvée Lalou was created in
1969, paying tribute to René Lalou, director of Mumm
between 1940 and 1973. This cuvée is a blend of 50%
Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, 100% Grand Cru, from
a selection of only 12 pristine plots, with an aging
of a minimum 8 years, making it the rarest and
finest of the Mumm collection. Too often the
Champagne industry warns that there will be a
shortage (e.g., the Millennium), but there seems
always to be millions of bottles available. Is
there ever really a shortage, especially since
there are so many smaller producers in the market? The Champagne appellation
is strictly limited geographically and in terms of
yields. Therefore, we have only a limited quantity
of Champagne available. The current booming demand
and the last 2 years of low yields create tensions
between demand and supply. Champagne is a long
process that takes time, between 2 to 8 years for a
bottle at Mumm. We work closely with all our
customers and distributors to ensure a smooth
distribution of our products all around the world,
but at the same time, we must ensure quality and we
do not comprise on quality by reducing the aging
phases for example. Spanish cava,
Italian proseccos, and California sparklers have
had an enormous impact over the last decade in the
sparkling wine market. How has that affected
Champagne? Champagne is Champagne. The
terroir, the climate, and the savoir-faire are
unparalleled and the style inimitable. For me, there
is room for all types of sparkling wines, and I do
not see the others as competitors, but more as a
complementary offer for different
occasions. Is there a conscious
effort to maintain a price level in the face of
such competition? As mentioned earlier,
Champagne is a demanding and long process, with
grapes coming from a very limited geographic area,
so I let you do the math, but
producing Champagne is expensive, especially fine
Champagnes like Mumm’s. Is there really such
a difference between a basic label and a prestige
Cuvee that may cost hundreds of dollars? The price difference
between a classic non-vintage cuvée like Mumm Grand
Cordon and a prestige cuvée like Mumm RSRV Cuvée
Lalou comes from the rarity and the demanding
process, especially the long aging on lees. Mumm
RSRV Cuvée Lalou is produced from only a maximum of
12 pristine plots and only the best years. We have
only produced 17 vintages since 1969. This cuvée
ages a minimum of 8 years on lees, allowing the
development of character and deep complexity. What meats work with
Champagne? For me, Champagne is first
and foremost a wine, and tasting Champagne during a
meal is the best way to enjoy both! We work
with a lot of talented chefs to create the best
pairings. Champagne and meat can pair very well,
even red meat. I love a barbecue grilled steak with
a glass of rosé champagne like Mumm Grand Cordon
Rosé or Mumm RSRV Rosé Foujita. Poultry and white
meat like veal pair perfectly with brut champagnes
like our Mumm Grand Cordon, the freshness and
delicate texture are very complementary. Lamb with a
light spicing can work very well with 100% Pinot
Noir Champagne like our Mumm RSRV Blanc de Noirs. I
always encourage our customers and chefs to be bold
and dare new pairings! ❖❖❖ WE HIGHLY
RECOMMEND HER NEXT MEAL SHOULD
❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
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