MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  June 19, 2022                                                                                            NEWSLETTER


Founded in 1996 

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JoBeth Williams, Tom Berenger, Glenn Close, Kevin Kline, William Hurt, Meg Tilly and Jeff Goldblum in The Big Chill (1983)

         The Big Chill (1983)



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IN THIS ISSUE
JAMES BOND'S TASTES:
DR NO

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
THE STANDARD GRILL

By John Mariani

ANOTHER VERMEER
CHAPTER 24
By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
WEST COAST WINES: STILL BIG
AND BOLD AFTER ALL THESE YEARS
By John Mariani




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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. June 22 at 11AM EDT,I will be interviewing Prof. Diana Horton about the Harlem Renaissance. Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.






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JAMES BOND'S TASTES
DR. NO






By John Mariani


 
     Dr. No was the very first 007 movie (1962), modestly budgeted and introducing Sean Connery as James Bond, based on the sixth novel (1958) in Ian Fleming’s series, despite his having (seemingly) killed off Bond in the previous volume, From Russia with Love. (Apparently Bond recovered from fugu poisoning.)
     Fleming said he was influenced by Sax Rohmer’s Fu Manchu stories to create the villainous six-foot-six Dr. No—Bond calls him "a giant venomous worm wrapped in grey tin-foil"—and on its release The New Statesman scoffed that the movie was nothing but “Sex, Snobbery and Sadism.” But it was a big hit worldwide and spurred the producers to make more Bond films.
  Jamaica, where most of the book is set, was Fleming’s home, named Goldeneye (below), later the title of a Bond movie with Pierce Brosnan, where he wrote most of his novels and stories and which reggae singer Bob Marley later owned it for a spell.
    The novel’s plot involves Bond on a mission to Jamaica to investigate an agent’s assassination and a mysterious Dr. Julius No, who lives on Crab Key. In his hotel room 007 escapes an attempt to kill him with a tarantula in his bed. A local guide named Quarrel takes him to Crab Key, where he meets shell collector Honeychile Ryder, and they are captured by No's men after Quarrel is burned to death by a mechanical flame-throwing “dragon.” At his lair, No (who had his hands cut off by a Chinese tong) tells Bond he is behind the jamming of American missile tests on Cape Canaveral. Bond escapes through an air duct, then battles with a captive giant squid and rescues Ryder (who had been tied down to be nibbled away by crabs). Bond kills No and buries him in a guano-loading machine. The couple sail back to Jamaica.
    
   
The movie begins at Jamaica’s Queens Club, where an MI6 agent has drinks before being murdered. When Bond arrives, he checks into the Myrtle Beach hotel (right), refreshes himself with a gin and tonic, and later, over lunch, enjoys a steak and another gin and tonic. At his hotel he receives a fruit gift basket, but finds it has been poisoned, with “objects containing enough cyanide to kill a horse.”

         As in the book, he meets Honeychile on the beach and is captured by Dr. No’s henchmen and brought to his mini-city at Crab Key, where Bond is allowed to order anything he wishes to eat and drink.  He has a lavish English breakfast of eggs on toast, bacon, grilled kidney and sausage, bread, marmalade and honey and strawberry preserves with chilled pineapple juice and Jamaican coffee.
      Honeychile Ryder opts for a Coca-Cola, and Bond makes his first reference to wanting his already well-known vodka Martini “shaken, not stirred,” and “medium dry” with a slice of lemon, preferably made with “Russian or Polish vodka.” At the time that might have been difficult to obtain. Bond certainly could not have expected Stolichnaya, because it wasn’t exported until 1974 in a deal with Pepsico to get their soda into Russia.  (In another novel Bond recalled the vodka he drank in Russia during World War II was so like diesel fuel that the Russians put black pepper in it to kill the flavor.)
     Later on, in an underwater room where No has his facilities, Bond finds a menu that he notes might have been from London’s highly regarded Savoy Grill or New York’s ‘21’ Club. Bond orders a double portion of beluga caviar, grilled lamb cutlets and angels on horseback (oysters wrapped in bacon, right) and a Champagne sorbet; for Honeychile he orders roast stuffed chicken à l’anglaise and a hot fudge sundae.
     The plot of the movie version of Dr. No reveals that Dr. No works for SPECTRE and attempts to enlist Bond as an agent. Of course, 007 refuses, and he and Honeychile are taken away and beaten before he escapes through an air vent and infiltrates Dr. No’s control center just as he is about to jam another rocket launch. After a struggle, Dr. No falls into a nuclear reactor pool and is boiled to death. The reactor overheats and just after Bond and Ryder escape, the island blows up, and the couple is rescued by a ship from the Royal Navy.
     At the beginning of the movie Bond makes his first appearance, in tuxedo, at the card tables at London’s Ambassadeurs Club (left), then he returns to MI6 headquarters, where, establishing a tradition, he tosses his hat (a black homburg from London’s hatmaker James Lock & Co.) onto the coat rack in M’s secretary Moneypenny’s office. Bond then flies to Jamaica, meets CIA agent Felix Leiter and is invited to lunch at King’s House. In his hotel 007 finds Smirnoff Red Label and Blue Label vodka and makes himself a martini, then joins Leiter and others at the Queens Club for drinks. Later he meets Quarrel at Morgan’s Harbour Hotel (now the Grand Port Royal Hotel in Kingston) for lunch, with a tipple of Black & White Scotch.
     Bond spends the night with Rosie Carver at Cottage 10 at the Half Moon Resort (left) before he dispatches an assassin sent to kill him. After the  man expends his bullets shooting at a fluffed up pillow, Bond, sitting in a wicker chair, says, “That’s a Smith & Wesson and you’ve had your six,” then nonchalantly shoots the man dead, an act that at the time was shocking to audiences not used to such cold-blooded “License to Kill” in a hero.
     The famous scene with Ryder (Ursula Andress) coming out of the surf was filmed at Laughing Waters in Ochos Rios, with other scenes set at Dunn’s River Falls. After Bond and Ryder are captured and brought to No’s underground lair, Bond spots a painting of the Duke of Wellington by the Spanish artist Goya that had actually been stolen the year before from London’s National Gallery (in real life not recovered for 50 years, stolen by a 20-year-old van driver).
     At dinner, Dr. No brings a Dom Pérignon 1955, and Bond sniffs, “I prefer the ’53 myself,” then snatches the bottle and a steak knife to kill No, but is restrained. 
     The success of Dr.No worldwide gave the go-ahead to more Bond movies, not to mention a slew of imitators and spoofs of the spy genre.


 







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NEW YORK CORNER



 
THE STANDARD GRILL
The Standard, High Line
848 Washington Street
212-645-4100

By John Mariani



Photo: Todd Eberle
Food Photos: Alex Staniloff

 

      The High Line is one of New York’s most wondrous rehabilitations, crafted from a rotting, rusty unused elevated subway line into a 1.5-mile pedestrian’s garden walk. Its immediate success drew restaurateurs who knew the neighborhood, adjacent to the former Meatpacking District, would be a vibrant nexus for people to gather, eat and drink, and The Standard Grill in the Standard High Line Hotel has become an anchor, with the boisterous Biergarten next door.
      The Standard is a grand space, with a lovely all-white room as you enter, then, beyond, a big handsome room with a copper penny floor, spacious booths and high barrel-vaulted ceiling. When full, it can be loud, so ask for a table nearest the open kitchen, away from the bulk of diners. 
     
Its website describes The Standard as “classic New York, blending traditional steakhouse with New American cuisine,” which is a fair enough description for a menu that thoroughly covers all the bases without becoming a screed. Executive Chef Jean-Paul Lourdes knows his way around a grill as well as he does the seafood station, and his French onion soup ($14), thick with Comté cheese and an onion relish, would be a paragon of the form had it not used rye bread.
    
The raw bar offers three kinds of oysters by the piece ($3-$4.50), shrimp cocktail ($24) and a chilled half lobster ($36), followed by a selection of cheeses, cured meats and snacks.  For starters there is that wonderful onion soup and a fine, meaty Jonah crab cake with stone ground mustard ($32).
Beef tartare gains some punch from Calabrian chilies and texture from sunchokes ($23).
     From the grill you can opt for six cuts, including a very good 12-ounce dry aged New York strip with smoked harissa—at $48 something of a bargain these days. Go up to 38 ounces for the tomahawk and fermented rye mustard and you’ll pay $145, but that will easily serve three people. Quite remarkable and intensely flavorful was an 18-ounce slow-roasted Nebraska Angus Prime rib ($58) that has been aged for 45 days and then fermented for 72 hours in sushi rice before going in the oven for four hours. It’s a magnificent piece of beef with the right tang of aging, and it is lavished with a reduction of sweetened juices that makes it all the more savory. Our table of four each enjoyed an ample slice and then I still took almost half of it home for lunch.

Photo: John Mariani

     Half of a well-fatted “Million Dollar Chicken” ($30) has equal heft, enhanced by Aleppo pepper and preserved lemon, again with impeccably reduced juices. So, too, the lime leaf broth buoying a roasted sea bass with saffron and potato ($36) was as hearty a seafood dish as you’ll find. 
     
Indeed, no one would dare complain about the portions here and prices that are just as easy to swallow. By the way, don’t fail to order the fabulously rich salt baked potato puree ($12), of which my tablemate observed, “They might even have added potato to the butter!” White asparagus ($14), which don’t travel well, were that night sinewy and tough to chew through.
      You should get a dessert or two at The Standard Grill because they are lavish and as satisfying for a big guy as for a small child: A gloppy ice cream sundae ($9); a good cheesecake ($9); a chocolate-coffee mousse with whipped cream explosion called “The Deal Closer” ($14); and irresistible warm chocolate chip cookies ($9) with a glass of milk. If you like.
         The wine list is entirely appropriate for this kind of fare and, for its size, unintimidating. There are a lot of interesting whites under $60, and about a dozen reds under $100.
         The Standard Grill has clearly attracted a New York crowd—the women guests dress well though most of the men dress down—but it’s obviously become a good introduction for foreign visitors to learn about American beef, cosmopolitan taste and bang for the buck.

 

Open daily for dinner.



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ANOTHER VERMEER

By John Mariani



To read previous chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to the archive 

CHAPTER TWENTY-FOUR

 

         David filled Katie in on his conversation with Kiley, indicating that he was doing his best at least to alert his Interpol colleagues of his suspicions.  David also mentioned the arsenic in Saito’s blood.
         “Kiley said the medical examiner said it might be in the blood as some sort of Asian treatment for Saito’s syphilis,” said David. “I’m going to call a guy I know who works in the coroner’s office here in New York. What are you up to?”
         “I have an appointment with Coleman,” Katie said. “I’m not sure how much I want to hint at about what you and I believe, but I think I need to feel him out about the fact that three people on the list of six possible bidders, plus Saito, have not exactly had a good year.  He’s still got, what, three more profiles to do? He got that trimmed down list from us, remember, but I doubt he’s put two and two together about the group yet. I’ll let you know what he thinks.”
         David’s contact at the coroner’s office was considered one of the city’s top forensic scientists, Dr. John Malone, who’d been at his job for nearly thirty years. David had worked with him on a number of cases of people rubbed out by the mob, admiring the ultra-clinical way Malone would describe the blows a victim took to the head and neck from a metal, not a wooden, baseball bat.  “The metal bats don’t have any give and thereby inflict more damage with fewer blows; also, no wood splinters to work with,” David remembered Malone once saying.
         Malone was never less than official in his statements, both to the police and to the press, refusing to give any details he had not positively pinned down, so David knew Malone would not conjecture about the arsenic in Saito’s blood beyond what he was told.
         “Can I get a copy of the autopsy?” was the first thing Malone asked David over the phone. David doubted Kiley had gotten hold of the document, which would have been in Japanese anyway.
         “I could ask, but it might take a while.”
         “Well, then, I can’t say anything specific or in any way definitive. At one time arsenic was a good way to slowly get rid of your opponent by building it up in the bloodstream, but it’s been pretty much out of favor as a poison for fifty years. Of course, massive doses would kill you immediately—it’s nasty stuff, destroys your blood cells, sends you into shock.
         “It is interesting to note that many historians and forensic scientists believe the last Chinese emperor, Guangxu (left), was poisoned with arsenic by the empress—her name was  Cixi (below)—and her political ally Yuan Shikai.  Reports were they found that Guangxu had 2,000 times the amount of arsenic in him that is naturally extant in the body. The day Guangxu died, Cixi appointed a new emperor—he was just shy of three years old. Then, the very next day Cixi died. Lots of intrigue in that court.”
          “And did Cixi have arsenic in her blood?”
         “I don’t think that was ever tested for. More to the point, David, it is very true that arsenic was once considered a miracle drug for treating syphilis. They even called it ‘the Magic Bullet.’ Maybe you read the book or saw the movie with Edward G. Robinson, Dr. Ehrlich’s Magic Bullet? Ehrlich had been working on a cure for bubonic plague, but in 1909 he hooked up with two Japanese bacteriologists, Sahachiro Hata (left) and Shibasaburo Kitasato, and a year later they came up with a compound called Salvarsan they marketed as ‘the arsenic that saves live.’ It was a pretty good treatment for advanced syphilis before penicillin came along in 1928, though it wasn’t used until 1942 and certainly unavailable in Japan during the war.”
         “So you’re saying that Saito might have been on an arsenic treatment for his advanced syphilis and that’s what showed up in the blood?”
         “Possibly.  I’d have to know the concentration of the arsenic to say much more, and if it had been a very large amount—enough to kill him quickly—it had probably left his blood before the autopsy found it.”
         “But it’s not out of the question that Saito was poisoned with arsenic?”
         “That’s not something I would ever answer unless I did the autopsy, and that body is now in the ground.”
         As always, David was astounded at Malone’s breadth and depth of knowledge, which seemed requisite for a job in forensic science. He used to occasionally call Malone “Sherlock,” a comparison Malone swept away as complete nonsense, saying,  “What Holmes knew back then would just about fill a syringe compared to what we know today,” then adding, “Though that’s not Holmes’s fault.”

 

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         Katie’s appointment with Coleman took place outside his office.
         “The a/c is on the fritz,” he told her. “Can you meet me at the coffee shop around the corner? We can speak more privately there anyway.”
         The coffee shop was nearly empty at three o’clock, and, this being Friday, Coleman looked exhausted, nursing a cold.
         “You don’t look so good,” Katie told him.
         “Lingering summer cold.  Working too hard, too. I just hope when this whole Vermeer auction thing is over I can take some time off.  A place where the only art on the wall is a poster of the Caribbean island I’m on.”
         “So, any more news?”
         “Nothing that wasn’t in Wednesday’s edition.”
         Both of them ordered tea with lemon.         
        
Katie filled him in on some of the new things she had learned in the past two weeks but avoided the subject of any criminality.  She spoke about Balaton, Stepanossky, Dorenbosch, Shui, Danielides and Correia but added little to what Art Today had already published.
         “Is there a date for the auction?” she asked.
        “Some time in November, maybe before Thanksgiving. Nobody will know until the approved experts take a look at the painting.”
         “Do you know who they’ll be?”
         “I have the names of a couple; there may be others. I know that a Vermeer expert from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam will be going and another from the Kunstmuseum in Vienna (left).  They own a Vermeer and are considered first-rate in restoration of old paintings. I suspect someone from the Louvre will go; they own a couple of Vermeers, including The Astronomer.”  
     
“What about technical experts, the ones who look at the paint and canvas and what’s underneath?”
         “There’s a lot of debate about scientific methods versus the eye of the experts.  An X-ray can tell you if there’s painting underneath or some initial sketches, and chemical analysis of the paint itself is the new frontier in the field.”
         “Will any of those people go to Hong Kong?”
         “I don’t know.  It’s hard to figure what the Chinese will allow because they haven’t been in this kind of market very long. They certainly have little expertise in 17th century Dutch painting. I doubt very much they’re going to allow much scientific analysis because it will take too long.”
         “But, if they don’t have absolute authentication, will they really be able to sell it as a Vermeer, much less for $100 million?”
         “You’re asking me questions I don’t know the answers to, Katie,” Coleman said, sounding annoyed. “Aw, Jeez, Katie, I’m sorry, I just feel lousy.  I didn’t mean to snap. I gotta go home and get in bed for the weekend.”
         “I understand. Just tell me one thing: Is there someone I can contact who is an expert of a kind who might have a deeper understanding of how this is going to play out? My art professor friend at Fordham is very smart but she’s not an expert of that kind.”
         “Okay,” Coleman said, “write down this name. She’s an expert on the period in the Netherlands and has written a lot about the masters of the time. I know she’s done a monograph on Vermeer.  Her name is Alexandra Janson and she’s currently teaching at Columbia.”
         “Thanks, John,” said Katie. “Now go home and get some rest.”



 

 






©
John Mariani, 2016





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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


WEST COAST WINES:
STILL BIG AND BOLD AFTER ALL THESE YEARS

By John Mariani



"Judgment of Paris" wine tasting, 1976

 


       Back in the 1980s a California writer for Wine Spectator, for which I was also writing at the time, accused me of having an “East Coast palate,” by which he meant I was so used to drinking French and Italian wines that I could not appreciate the wines of California for their regional distinctions. To say that I preferred European wines back then, as I do now, had nothing to do with bias but to a well-founded assessment that at the time, when California wines were in fast ascendancy in the wine press, far too many of them were deliberately made to be what were called “blockbusters,” high in alcohol and terribly over-oaked.
       Chardonnays lacking acid tasted more like vanilla caramel than wine, which is easy enough to accomplish with a grape that is fairly neutral on its own. The reds were usually made from a single varietal like Cabernet Sauvignon, which produced wines one wine steward in Colorado said would “blow your doors off”—not a quality I look for in a wine. Zinfandels tended to be heavy and dull, Pinot Noirs tasted like fruit bombs, Sauvignon Blancs like fruit punch and Rieslings were flabby.
       Obviously, these objections were not true of all California wines back then, and much was made of how they compared so favorably at a famous blind tasting in Paris in 1976, which made sense because they were such big, in-your-face examples by comparison to French examples made with the same grapes. So, when Robert M. Parker Jr  (right) came onto the scene with his newsletter Wine Advocate two years later, pouring praise and number ratings on out-of-kilter, unbalanced California blockbusters, the wine industry and media followed, resulting in massive wines with none of the finesse of Bordeaux and Burgundy, Piedmont and Tuscany.
       Parker’s power was such that a wine he awarded anywhere near 100 points would sell out overnight and be priced hundreds of dollars over its SRP. (For the record, Parker always denied he had an affinity for high alcohol wines, though his ratings suggest otherwise; I do know winemakers who, off the record, say they chose their bottles carefully when Parker came to visit their wineries; others put their filtration skeins out of sight because Parker favored unfiltered reds.)
       So drenched in the idea of making monster wines were California winemakers of the 1980s that they initially disparaged the trademarked name Meritage in 1988 for a group of wineries that sought to develop more complexity in California wines by blending varietals in the traditional Bordeaux style. Its rubrics included:
     1. They must be a blend of the traditional Bordeaux grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Gros Verdot, and Carminère for red; Sauvignon Blanc (Sauvignon Musque), Sémillon, and Muscadelle for white.
       2. It must be the winery’s best wine of its type.
    3. It must be produced and bottled by a U.S. winery from grapes that carry a U.S. appellation of origin.
    4. It must be limited in production to no more than twenty-five thousand cases from each vintage by a single winery.
    5. Association members’ blended wines may carry the word “Meritage” on their labels, although member wineries may instead carry only their own proprietary names.

       In 1993 The Meritage Association petitioned the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms to recognize Meritage as a “designation of varietal significance.” Since then, the California wine industry has changed substantially and garnered legitimate praise—including in my own wine columns—for more refinement and more intelligent blending. High alcohol, however, remains a widespread effort not entirely explained by the effects of global warming.
       Blending is essential for Cabernet Sauvignon. The other night, with a steak dinner, I drank a highly regarded, very expensive 100% Napa Valley Cabernet with a massive 15.2% alcohol level that was so inky, tannic and one-dimensional as to make a single glass more than enough. And there seems no reason to believe it would age in one direction or another, which is another problem that occurs when wineries release very big wines after a year or two, rather than see how they age back at the winery. Given the capital investment of California wineries, with a single acre going for a million dollars, plus planting, buildings, bottling lines, transportation and so on, getting one’s product to market as soon as possible is understandable. But wines are not tomatoes and need a lot of care before they reach a peak of quality, and even then, they may require more aging.
     
Just last week the erudite winemaker Sean Thackrey (left), 79, of Bolinas, California, died after a winemaking career that began in 1973 during the time the state’s wines were gaining traction, though he did not release his first bottling, called Aquila, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, until 1981. He eschewed much of the agroscience behind viniculture, saying, ““My only purpose in the entire universe as a winemaker is to produce pleasure,” turning to the Greek poet Hesiod’s text “Work and Days” for guidance. He regarded all the talk about terroir a “self-serving piety” and “viticultural racism” and that legal appellations were nothing more than a “gerrymandered marketing gimmick.”
      Eccentric and idiosyncratic as Thackrey was, he was never easily dismissed by his colleagues, who admired his renegade style and knew, down deep, that Winespeak had indeed grown far too arcane for all but wine geeks and the wine media forced to publish endless screeds about phenolic components sniffed out like hunting dogs and translated into jargon—my favorite was the master sommelier who insisted he detected “freshly cut garden hose” in a wine’s aroma.
     As for my own palate, I always taste wines with food because it only makes sense to do so, as opposed to sniffing and swirling and swallowing a score of Chenin Blancs and struggling to say anything worthwhile about them.
     Let me be clear: I most certainly have found hundreds of California, Washington and Oregon wines to be superb, not least because they do taste different in the best possible ways from their European counterparts. There’s no reason a Sonoma County Pinot Noir should approximate a Côte de Nuit Burgundy, as long as it still tastes like Pinot Noir. Different climate, different soils will produce different wines, even within confined areas, even just meters from another vineyard.
      I am also a big believer in drinking the wines of a region where I’m eating, so when in Tuscany I order Tuscan wines and when in Napa Valley I drink Napa Valley wines. It’s absurd to do otherwise, as long as you ferret out the best from a wine list, preferably one without numerical ratings.







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ARTICLES WE NEVER FINISHED READING

"Go Ahead, Bring a Whole-Ass Roast Chicken to Your Picnic"
By Jen Stevenson, Eater.com (5/31/22)














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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas

John Curtas has been covering the Las Vegas food scene since 1995. He is the author of EATING LAS VEGAS - The 52 Essential Restaurants, and his website can be found at www.EatingLV.com. You can find him on Instagram: @johncurtas and Twitter: @eatinglasvegas. 



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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