MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  July 3, 2022                                                                                            NEWSLETTER




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"Picnic" By Daniel Celentano (circa 1940)

HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY

        

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IN THIS ISSUE
PARIS RESTAURANT REPORT
Part Two
By John A. Curtas


NEW YORK CORNER
ALTRO PARADISO

By John Mariani

ANOTHER VERMEER
CHAPTER 26
By John Mariani




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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. July 6 at 11AM EDT,I will be interviewing author Bill Malone on The Country Music of the 1950s. Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.










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PARIS RESTAURANT REPORT
Part Two
By John A. Curtas




 


      If La Tour represents the old guard of Parisian dining at its finest, then Guy Savoy, both the man and his restaurant, provides the connective tissue between haute cuisine's past, present and a future where new chefs will take up this mantle and teach the world what elegant dining is about.
      New York magazine’s Adam Platts and others may decry the “irrelevance of the old gourmet model but I stand with the New York Post’s Steve Cuozzo in maintaining that the call for luxury and refinement in how we eat (admittedly at rarefied levels of expense), will never go completely out of fashion.
      Cuozzo writes, “As critic Alan Richman eloquently expressed it a few years ago, fine dining is more than ‘a demonstration of wealth and privilege.’ . . . It is an expression of culture, the most enlightened and elegant form of nourishment ever devised. Without it we will slowly regress into the dining habits of cave people, squatting before a campfire, gnawing on the haunch of a bar.”
     All I can say to the Platts of the world, and younger food writers who echo the same sentiments, is, if you think "the old gourmet model" is dead or dying, plan a trip to France, where formal restaurants are poised to come roaring back, indeed if they haven't already done so.
    Put another way: get your goddamn head out of that bowl of ramen or whatever Nigerian/Uzbekistani food truck you're fond of these days and wake up and smell the Sauvignon Blanc.
      Or just go to Guy Savoy.
     
If one of
the world’s best restaurants can't change your mind, nothing will. Before you accuse me of bandwagon-ing, let me remind you that I've been singing the praises of Savoy's cuisine since 2006, and in 2009 even went so far as to travel between Las Vegas and Paris to compare his American outpost with the original. Back then, the flagship got the nod, but not by much.
      Since its move to the Monnaie de Paris (the old Parisian Mint) in 2015, Savoy's cuisine and reputation have attained a new level of preeminence, which is all the more incredible when you consider he has held three Michelin stars since 1980. With mentors like Joël Robuchon and Paul Bocuse having departed to that great stock pot in the sky, and Alain Ducasse having spread himself thinner than a sheet of mille-feuille, Savoy now rules the French gastronomic firmament as a revered elder statesman.
      The difference with Savoy being that he and his restaurants haven't rested on their laurels but are every bit as harmonious with the times as they were thirty years ago. To eat at Guy Savoy, overlooking the banks of the Seine from a former bank window, is to experience the best French cooking from the best French chefs performing at the top of their game. There is something both elemental and exciting about his cooking that keeps it as current as it was when he was the new kid on the Michelin block back in the ‘80s.
      Dining in the dead of winter can have its challenges. Greenery is months away, so chefs go all-in on all things rooted in the soil. The good news is black truffles are in abundance; the bad news is you better like beets. The great news is: In the hands of Savoy and his cooks, even jellied beets achieve an elegance unheard of from this usually humble taproot.
      As mentioned, a French chef respects an ingredient by looking at it as a blank canvas to be improved upon. Look no further than this beet hash (truffes et oeufs de caille, la terre autour) lying beneath a quail egg and a shower of tuber melanosporum, both shaved and minced. Neither of these would I choose for my last meal on earth but both gave me new respect for how the French can turn the prosaic into the ethereal—food transcending itself into something beautiful.
      Which, of course, is what Savoy did with the lowly artichoke so many years ago, when he combined it with Parmesan cheese and black truffles and turned it into the world's most famous soup. And there's no escaping this soup at Guy Savoy, nor should you want to. Regardless of season, it encapsulates everything about the Savoy oeuvre: penetrating flavor from a surprisingly light dish, by turns both classic and contemporary.
       We may have come for the truffles, but we stayed for the filet of veal en croûte (right), once again lined with, you guessed it, more black truffles. From there we progressed through a salad of roasted potatoes and truffles, a bouillon of truffles served like coffee in a French press, then a melted cheese fondue over a whole truffle, and even something that looked like a huge black truffle but which, upon being nudged with a fork, revealed itself to be a chocolate mousse.      All of it was served by a staff that looked like teenagers and acted like twenty-year veterans.     
    Suffice it to say the wine pairings were as outstanding as the food, all of it meshing into a seamless meld of appetite and pleasure—the pinnacle of epicurean bliss—high amplitude cooking where every element converges into a single gestalt.
      We then went nuts with multiple desserts (as we always do), including a clafoutis and the petit fours cart, and rolled away thinking we wouldn't be eating again for two days.
      I write these words not to convince you that Guy Savoy is the greatest restaurant in the world, or even that such a thing exists, but rather to persuade you of the transcendent gustatory experiences you can have at places like it. Until I've been to every restaurant in the world, I won't be able to proclaim one of them "the best." Even then, the best would only be what best fit my mood, my likes and my expectations at the very moment I was there.
      Adam Platt was right about one thing: "The best restaurant in the world" doesn't have to be fancy. The best restaurant in the world can be something as simple as a plat du jour of boeuf bourguignon studded with lardons and button mushrooms in a run-down bistro smelling of wine sauces and culinary history. It can be at a tiny trattoria on the Amalfi Coast or a local diner where everyone knows your name, or that little joint where you first discovered a dish, a wine, or someone to love. But your favorite restaurant, no matter where or what it is, owes an homage to the place where it all started.
      Émile Zola's novel The Belly of Paris describes the markets of Les Halles as "some huge central organ pumping blood into every vein of the city." Those markets may be gone, but their soul lives on in the form of Parisian restaurants that remain, one hundred a fifty years later, its beating heart.
      To eat in the great restaurants of Paris is to be inside the lifeblood of a great city, communing with something far bigger than yourself. To be in them is to be at the epicenter of the culinary universe and the evolution of human gastronomy, where the sights and smells of the food, and the way it is served, reflect the entire history of modern dining.


GUY SAVOY
11 Quai de Conti
43 80 40 61



John Curtas has been covering the Las Vegas food scene since 1995. He is the author of EATING LAS VEGAS - The 52 Essential Restaurants, and his website can be found at 
www.EatingLV.com. You can find him on Instagram: @johncurtas and Twitter: @eatinglasvegas. 
















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NEW YORK CORNER


ALTRO PARADISO

234 Spring St
646-952-0828

 

By John Mariani




 

 

      The quartet of restaurants—Altro Paradiso, Estella, Corner Bar and Lodi—owned by Uruguayan chef Ignacio Mattos have succeeded as much by media sightings of celebrities as by the food and atmosphere, as boasted on its website: “It’s something about the way they’re animated from within, filled always with the most stylish and interesting people seemingly anywhere, and an extension of Mattos himself: elegant but fun, a little mysterious, and with an inexplicable gravitational pull.”  Which doesn’t happen to mention the food.
      Altro Paradiso in Soho seems like one of those why-not? ideas—you can buy a signature baseball cap for $30—based on  the expectation of an immediate buzz.  The food is good, but not outstanding, pretty much sticking to the tried-and-true New York trattoria formula of dishes found all over town. This being Soho, the noise level is crushingly loud, owing to all hard surfaces, including a mirrored wall and one stacked with wine bottles. 
      The wine list is definitely impressive for a place this size, with lots of rare bottles and quite a few well under $100, with mark-ups between 100% and 250%.
      There are ten antipasti, including a pleasing plate of rosy Prosciutto di Parma with fried hot pizza dough ($25), and a hefty well-seasoned pork sausage with sweet-sour mostarda di Cremona and butter beans ($19), both easy enough to share with your table.     
     
Among the four pastas the most interesting is the candele cacio e pepe ($22) of fat macaroni with shaved Tuscan Gran Mugello cheese and crushed  peppercorns, but a special one night of black seppie noodles ($26) had an intensity of briny flavors without being fishy. A simple dish of spaghetti with tomato sauce and basil ($22) is always good to see on an Italian menu, but Altro Paradiso’s was remarkably bland and lacked much real tomato flavor. Wide egg-based pappardelle ($28) came with a duck ragù, though not much of it, and an equal paucity of porcini mushrooms.

      In Italian the phrase “brutto ma buono” means ugly but good, and that’s a good description of the rombo (turbot) with a creamy and delicious aïoli (market price), as well as a juicy tilefish with potato, tomato and Cerignola olives ($37). Desserts are about par for the course.
      Depending upon your wont, Altro Paradiso makes for a good drop-in spot if you live in the neighborhood (and can get a table) or for those in search of a hot spot, which requires going out of your way. In that, it works as well as any number of places, though the bistro fare at Estella on East Houston Street is much more interesting. There doesn’t seem to be much personality in Altro Paradiso’s food, but if it’s buzz you seek, buzz you’ll get, unless it is celebrity free the night you go.

 

Open for lunch Tues.-Sun., dinner nightly.

 
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ANOTHER VERMEER

By John Mariani



To read previous chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to the archive
 

CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX

 

Beijing National Museum 


 

      “You spoke to Alex Janson?” Prof. Horner asked, giggling a little. “That must have been some interview!”
         “Well, she came off a bit pompous,” said Katie. “Mainly, she said she wouldn’t say anything about the Vermeer being authentic or not, because she had seen all the Vermeers in the world, except this new painting, and wasn’t invited to inspect it in Hong Kong.”
         “You can be sure she put in a request.”
         “So, you know her?”
         “Everybody in the scholarly community knows Alex. Her father wrote the textbook every college still uses, Janson’s History of Art.  She’s considered brilliant by some and an eccentric windbag by others.  Her writing is thorough. She does her work carefully. But, if she thinks she will not be consulted on a painting, she just blows everyone else off who is.  She thinks she has a direct line to all the Dutch artists in heaven. Maybe hell, too.”
         “Isn’t that a little ridiculous for someone whose own reputation is as a scholar of Dutch art?”
         “Yes, but, you see, Alex got burned, really burned, a few years back by authenticating a work by another Dutch artist of the period—I think it was a Franz Hals—and it turned out to be a modern-day fake. She’d put her reputation on the line on behalf of the seller, got paid well for her opinion, then, when the thing was discovered to be a fake, both she and the auction house were roundly criticized and sued over the mess.”
         “Does that kind of thing happen often?” asked Katie. “I mean, we’re talking about the most important painting to come on the market in many years.”
         “I’m afraid it does, and collectors, auction houses, sellers, buyers and the families of artists are getting more litigious all the time.  It’s gotten so bad that the College Art Association is selling insurance to the experts in case they get sued. At the moment the
Association recommends that art historians offer opinions only if the owner of the work makes a written request and promises to indemnify the scholar against legal damages.”
         “She did hint that because the new painting is not in the official CR that it would be very tough to prove its authenticity.”
         “Well,” sighed Horner, “a CR is still considered to be something close to the bible on an artist’s work—even though there have been a lot of additions and subtractions in the past thirty years, because the tools for identifying an artist are so much better than before. In fact, a scholarly group called the Rembrandt Research Project worked for forty years on his CR and eventually booted 150 works off the list that were once declared to be Rembrandt’s. You can imagine how that felt if you had for years—or centuries—thought you owned a real Rembrandt, maybe worth millions.”
         “And there’s no protection against that kind of thing?”
         “Not really, There are too many experts who hold what is called the droit moral, which protects the artist from being copied or his work altered in any way, and that expert almost always has final say, whether or not he or she really has expertise.”
         “How the heck could that happen?”
         “I’ll tell you a funny story. The Cubist master Georges Braque (left) was a friend of a sculptor named Henri Laurens (below), who had a bicycle accident in which his testicles were crushed. Poor guy, couldn’t father any children afterwards. So, the story goes, Braque himself slept with Laurens’s wife and produced a son, named Claude, who was given Braque’s okay to defend his droit moral and determine his CR. Later, Claude and his son, Laurent, were involved in quite a scandal when Christie’s tried to sell a Braque pastel for $600,000, and others insisted it was a fake.  It was all a big mess. Lots and lots of countersuits.”
         “Excuse the pun,” said Katie, “but Laurent must have had real balls.”
      “So apparently did Braque. The thing about all the authenticating business—and it is a big business—is that it’s getting increasingly more difficult, when these sums of money are involved, just to take the word of the seller and his record of provenance.  A lot of scholarly committees have gotten out of the business because they don’t want to risk being sued.”
         “But you said there are new techniques being developed to determine scientifically the age and paint composition and so on of a painting.”
         “It’s getting better, but they’re just markers put up against the practiced eye of an expert. That’s why Alex Janson never accepts the science. She thinks her knowledge—and it is vast—counts for way more than the chemical analysis of a particular color of blue pigment.”
         “And where does that leave the Vermeer?” asked Katie.
         “Good question. The history of its provenance is going to have to be very strong.  You, David and I and Professors Mundt and Lìu may have come up with a great theory about how it got to China, but it’s only a theory, and would need a lot more investigation. I doubt sales records are still around from the 1660s.”
         “Do you think, then, that the Chinese can get enough documentation to verify the painting?”
         “Y’know, Katie, what makes this all so fascinating is that it does sound so bizarre that a painting by Vermeer would show up in China, and that it’s been lying in secret somewhere for centuries, and then it’s announced as if some curator at the Beijing National Museum tripped over it by accident and said ‘Eureka!’—or whatever they say in China.  But it’s the very idea of its being bizarre that suggests no one would make such a wacky claim without there being a good deal of information and scholarship already done. It’s going to be an interesting show.”
         “This is September,” said Katie, “and I’m told the auction will take place in November. Is that really enough time for analysis?”
         “Not usually, but there’s nothing usual about this whole business. That
Young Woman Seated at the Virginal has been poked over for fifty years now without agreement. I suspect the Chinese will bring over bonafide Vermeer experts with unquestioned reputations and theirs will be the final word.  The auction house and the bidders will either take it or leave it and try to protect themselves in the catalog listing with some kind of disclaimer. Y’know, ‘sold as is.’ If it’s real, it will sell for a fortune, and only increase in price in years to come. God forbid the painting turns out to be a fake!  
     
“Which is why the auction houses are not speaking to the press at all about it. They can’t afford to make a $100 million mistake on a world stage.”
         Katie had no intention of bringing up David’s and her suspicions about criminal activity.  Those pieces still didn’t fit together. So Katie thanked the professor and said she’d keep in touch with any further news.
         “And say hello to John Coleman for me,” said Horner. “Tell him I like what he’s doing with this story.”
         “Will do. I plan on calling him tonight. At the moment he’s down with a bad cold, so I’ll try to cheer him up.”
         Of course, Katie intended to bounce off Coleman what she’d learned that afternoon from the two art professors. So, when she got home, she poured herself a glass of wine and dialed him at home.
         The phone rang four times, followed by a routine recording saying, “The person you are trying to reach is not available at the moment . . .”    
      
Katie hung up, said to herself she’d let Coleman sleep, made herself dinner and went to bed early.
         The next day, not too early, she called Coleman again and got the same message. So, although she knew he was always up to his ears with closing the week’s issue of Art Today on Monday, she  waited till then to call him at his office. His desk phone rang and, after five rings, a young woman picked it up. “John Coleman’s desk,” she said. “Carol speaking.”
         “Carol, hi,” said Katie, “This is John’s friend Katie Cavuto.  Can I speak to John?”
         “Oh, I’m sorry, Katie.  John’s not in today.”
         “Oh, poor guy, he’s still that sick?”
“He’s out of the country. I think he’s in China.  I don’t think he gets back till tomorrow.”
    “Oh, well, in that case, you wouldn’t have his cell phone number, would you?”
         “Sorry, no.”
         “Okay, then will you just have him call me when he gets in, Carol?”
         “Sure thing.”
         Katie hung up and wondered how what seemed to be a very ill friend, who said he was going to collapse in bed all weekend, could fly off to another country for business, especially when Monday was the day his very small, overworked staff pushed themselves to put out the next issue of his magazine.





©
John Mariani, 2016







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YOU MIGHT FIND RECIPES IN THE RUSSIAN GULAG COOKBOOK

“It’s Time to Grill Weird, Unpopular Root Vegetables” By  Jaya Saxena , Eater.com (6/13/22)

 















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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to two excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas

John Curtas has been covering the Las Vegas food scene since 1995. He is the author of EATING LAS VEGAS - The 52 Essential Restaurants, and his website can be found at www.EatingLV.com. You can find him on Instagram: @johncurtas and Twitter: @eatinglasvegas. 



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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