MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  July 10, 2022                                                                                            NEWSLETTER


Founded in 1996 

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Isabelle Carré and Gregory Gadebois in "Delicious" (2022)

        

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IN THIS ISSUE
THE STATE OF SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD TODAY
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
PEAK

By John Mariani

ANOTHER VERMEER
CHAPTER 27
By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

                                            THE PLEASURES OF RED WINES
                                      NOT DESIGNED TO ROCK YOUR SOCKS

By John Mariani



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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. July 13 at 11AM EDT,I will be interviewing Lynn DiMenna on A History of Westchester County Country Clubs.  Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.








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THE PRECARIOUS STATE OF
SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD TODAY

 

By John Mariani


 



         At a time when food shortages are beginning to impact global markets, seafood harvesting and sales have been particularly vulnerable, owing to climate change, overfishing and demand. Sustainability in the industry takes many forms, including fish farming. To get a perspective on what’s going on, I interviewed Sam King, CEO & President of King’s Seafood Company in San Diego, which opened its first restaurant in 1984, now with six different concepts with 22 locations including 6 Water Grills, 12 King’s Fish Houses,  Meat on Ocean, Pier Burger, Lou & Mickey’s and 555 East.


 

Seafood prices are through the roof. Why?

Seafood pricing has been all over the board this year. All oysters are up at least 15% to 20% over 2019 and some other examples of the largest increases include halibut, Chilean seabass, swordfish, jumbo lump crabmeat, Barents Sea crab legs and many more. We have not seen seafood prices affected too much regionally, other than what is related to some of the labor shortage issues that have happened.  This has happened across all regions.

Starting five years, North American hard-shell lobster pricing has increased by 30-40% for several reasons. The first was the introduction of the “Lobster Roll,” which went national around five years or so ago, putting tremendous pressure on lobster meat.  The second is the increasing middle class in China and their appetite for live seafood products, which has increased demand dramatically. In May 2016, our cost of a 2-pound lobster was $16.60, but in May 2022, our cost was $33.50, which is over a 100% increase in what may be the largest increase of all of our seafood products during that time.

 

What is the situation with wild salmon as opposed to farm-raised?

In the past our company has always enjoyed displaying our love of the spring and summer salmon runs. Some years we have had seven to eight different rivers represented on our menus during a season run of King Salmon, which have included Copper, Columbia, Neets Bay, Nootka Sound, and Queen Charlotte to name a few. Unfortunately, the past several years has seen these numbers reduced. For example, last year we had only three rivers represented on our menus. With the recent opening of Copper River last week, we hope we will have more rivers to pull from this year.

Our company buys two different farmed-raised salmon:  One is an Atlantic salmon from British Columbia that we buy from Mowi, the largest producer, which has certification from the GSSI (Global Sustainable Seafood Initiative). At our Water Grills, we buy farmed King Salmon from New Zealand when the wild salmon is not available during the late fall and winter.  We believe that the great work of some of the NGOs has helped keep farmed salmon honest and has been necessary to require the farms to operate at a much higher environmentally sensitive level.  If we were to eliminate the 4 billion pounds of farmed salmon consumption annually, it would have devastating effects on wild seafood stocks.  

 

What do you consider the differences between wild and farm-raised seafood?

I spoke to the staff members that operate the Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach several years ago about this subject. I knew this audience came in with an anti-farming bias, so I came up with the theme of looking at countries that were large proponents of aquaculture and matching their Green Living Rankings that were just listed in US News & World Report.  Interestingly, four countries in the top 10—Norway, Japan, New Zealand, and Canada—are also big in aquaculture. My question to them was how could these countries manage both of these competing synergies. In fact, this is one of our biggest frustrations with the state of California, which has over 1,000 miles of pristine coastline perfect for growing seafood products, so why do we not lead the world in this genre?

 

What exactly is flash freezing and how does it affect the product?

We believe flash freezing of fish is the best method when freezing.  Flash frozen is when you freeze a fish very quickly so there is little to no degradation of quality.Fresh vs. frozen can often be one the most misunderstood concepts when it comes to seafood quality. For the sushi at our restaurants, all the sushi fish must be frozen before it can be eaten raw under FDA guidelines. We have very stringent HAACP guidelines in place that our distribution company is required to follow in the handling of seafood which we use for sushi. 

 

We’ve heard for many years now that wild Mediterranean seafood is in short supply.

Our company utilizes several products from the Mediterranean Sea. Some of our Spanish octopus comes from the Mediterranean Sea. We also purchase farm-raised black bream and branzino, both farmed in Turkey.  These are the only items we presently utilize from this region; however, it is sad to read about some of the reducing fish stocks in the area.
 

 True Russian-Iranian caviar harvesting in the Caspian Sea has been banned for years now. Where is the rest coming from?

 Our company presently does not have a traditional caviar program in place; however, we are looking into researching it as a possible new menu item.  I was recently surprised to find that China was quickly becoming perhaps the largest producer of caviar. We will be starting caviar tastings this summer and then decide if we want to put a caviar program in place.

 

Which overfished species are you most concerned about?

 We are concerned with the Alaskan King Crab fishery. We understand that it is a well-monitored program, however, the biomass reports have shown a large decrease in juveniles. This prompted the state of Alaska to decide to close the fishery in 2021/2022, the first time in 25 years.  Even though we miss this product on our menus, we are pleased that the state is doing a good job managing their fishery. 

 


Is the industry suffering from supply chain issues?

 Supply chain issues have become perhaps our number one challenge and priority. Before, we had predictability in the supply chain, where seafood products were seasonally available or unavailable, with the increase and decrease in pricing following. Presently, for example, we have several important frozen products sitting on boats that are supposed to be off-loaded in the Port of Los Angeles. Important frozen items, like hamachi loins and Peruvian scallops, have taken three times the amount of time to get delivered to us. We are also remodeling our private dining kitchen at our Water Grill in San Diego and ordered a Rational oven last week and were told that it won’t arrive until February. Unfortunately, stories like these are commonplace, adding a completely new dimension in product procurement. This includes issues with paper products, china and silverware, and even the fabric used for our restaurant napkins.

 

How has your company committed to sustainability?

King’s Seafood Company has always been committed to both sustainability and environmental stewardship. We have shown leadership by committing money to research, being on boards, such as the Aquarium of the Pacific and the Wrigley Institute of Environmental Science, and in many other ways. We also operate our seafood distribution facility using recycled trays, bins, and containers, allowing us to use almost zero cardboard boxes for our seafood deliveries to our restaurants.  

 

How have warmer waters affected seafood?

Warmer waters, if not corrected, will continue to have a profound effect on our seafood products. Whether it be algae blooms that affect much of the predominate food in the form of phytoplankton or marine food chains that impact the pelagic food web. Warmer waters also promote ocean acidification, which is harmful to our shellfish populations.  Our company has invested with a group out of Washington State that is working to help figure out what we can do to move forward and help slow this process.

 

Michael King, Marketing director King's Seafood


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NEW YORK CORNER

PEAK

30 Hudson Yards, 101st floor
332-204-8509 

 
By John Mariani
Photos by Alex Staniloff




 

         Only those who have dined at Windows on the World in New York’s World Trade Center, the Signature Room in Chicago or at sky-high restaurants in Asian capitals and Dubai will recognize that Peak, opened four days prior to the Covid shut-down in 2019, is as extraordinary as any. In terms of height alone, at 1,149 feet, it takes the prize as tallest of them all (these things change year to year). And since Peak overlooks the entirety of New York, with its panorama including the Empire State Building, the East and Hudson Rivers and, in the distance, that Lady in the Harbor, there is no finer aerie than this. Wedding proposals are an everyday event.             Add to that a lavish and creative menu by Christopher Cryer and world-class wine list and you have quite a total package no one—tourist or gourmand—could dismiss as mere spectacle.
      One big caveat is that Peak is located within the city’s most grotesque maze of a building, Hudson Yards, which is not only a sterile showcase for pricey international boutiques usually empty of customers but a series of Piranesian escalators and elevators (including the dedicated express that takes you to Peak) that can make even finding the restaurant a twenty-minute slog, including multiple requests for directions. Many noted restaurateurs have regretted going into that off-putting space for lack of business. Hudson Yards belongs in Macao, not Manhattan. (For those who come in by car, nearby street parking is non-existent and parking lots expensive; there is no subway stop either.)
             That said, Peak is worth the effort, and apparently is so seven days a week for those who come for the view from The Edge terrace a floor below, or the snazzy bar that stocks more than 200 spirits. Developed by the RHC group and designed by David Rockwell, the tall ceilings and wraparound windows do not try to compete with the view. The décor is fairly straightforward, with a metal ceiling, though it’s way too gray overall, yet somehow Rockwell (who has designed some very loud restaurants for Danny Meyer) has managed to allow table conversations at a normal level.  Music plays in the background but seems to get louder by nine o’clock.
         Cryer has carte blanche to buy the best ingredients, from Amish chickens to Colorado lamb, as has beverage director Zack Kameron, who stocks a 1,100-label wine list with lots of large formats and plenty of trophies (a DRC goes for $17,500) but, alas, very few bottles under $100 on a screed that should certainly be more proletarian. One wonders why the list needs scores of sparkling wines, with a delightful rolling cart of Champagnes, and who, really, is ordering the 15th Meursault down the list or either of two $499 California Syrahs.
        After uttering our unstifled oohs and ahs over the cityscape and waterways below us, our table of four found the menu to be unexpectedly, but admirably, short, with a shellfish section, nine apps and eight mains. The chef sent out an amuse of crispy cannons of mushroom duxelle and Hudson Valley cheddar topped with a sprinkling of Australian truffles. Also from the Valley came creamy fresh foie gras ($30) with a gelée made with
2002 Château Suduiraut (left) —which goes for $240 a bottle on the wine list.  A very hearty and generous dish is the ballotine of pork ($29) with glazed bacon, hot n’duja sausage and ripe apricots. Equally so are the short ribs ($34) with a beef jam, summer morel mushrooms and oat bread, which would make for a satisfying entrée.
        Atlantic sea scallops ($35) were themselves sumptuously fat and sweet, but in a singular misstep, Cryer tops it with awful California fish roe unworthy of the name caviar, compromising the subtle but rich flavor of the mollusks. Yellowfin tuna ($29) with melon was refreshing and had a little chile spark. For vegetarians, there is a dish of cold carrots with ricotta and tangerines (above, right; $21).
        For main courses, the Amish chicken (below) provided plenty of flavor after being brined, air dried, stuffed with breadcrumbs, butter and preserved lemon, rubbed with a yogurt marinade and roasted, then served with leek spaetzle, pickled vegetables and the crispy chicken thigh, all in a beer jus.
        Nicely cooked carrots show up with an admirable amount of lobster (right; $59): The tail is poached and glazed with an emulsion of orange, lobster stock and butter, while the claw meat and knuckles go into a salad on the plate. The lobster shells are utilized for a lush Asian coconut curry sauce.
        The lamb, culled from small farms, has a fine chew, with a touch of smokiness on the belly meat, and leeks, dates and walnuts sweetened the meat ($53). Nothing particularly enlightening about the filet mignon (six ounces for a whopping $69), with mushrooms, broccoli, spinach and a rich bone marrow bordelaise.
        Cryer’s cooking is certainly sumptuous, though pulling back one item from some of the overloaded plates wouldn’t hurt, and would probably help.
        No need to cut back
pastry chef Jeff Wurtz’s desserts, though, which begin with a simple yuzu sherbet then offers the options of  strawberries with a crunchy almond granola, yogurt sorbet and strawberry jus ($20), and cherries with a Sicilian pistachio crumble, cherry jam, pistachio gelato and cherry granité ($17). Layer after layer of flavors and textures distinguish the chocolate sablé, milk chocolate caramel mousse, caramel glaze, chocolate cremeux, sea salt and malt ice cream extravaganza ($17), but the Barnum & Bailey moment is “the Egg” (above) whose sugary shell breaks open to reveal blackberry curd, sugar cookie, crème fraȋche mousse, lemon and blueberry jam ($18).
        Petit fours, raspberry dark chocolate and a hazelnut macaron finish off the feast.
        Next to us at a prime corner table was a gentleman kneeling to present an engagement ring to a woman suitably gushing and a room of onlookers in applause. Peak is made for such moments and for anyone celebrating anything. But for those who also relish a superb meal, well, you get that, too.

Photo by Walter Bagley

 

Open for lunch and dinner daily.


 




ANOTHER VERMEER

By John Mariani



To read previous chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to the archive
 


CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN

         As helpful as Gerald Kiley had been thus far, it bothered David that without credentials of his own there were doors of investigation closed to him. He was no longer with NYPD, didn’t even have a private detective’s license, and he began to think he was getting rusty in his skills. While he was the head of NYPD’s Special Investigations Unit, he could count on access wherever he sought it, except in those mob cases where, for reasons never revealed to him, he was waved off, or forbidden by a judge to plant recording devices in suspects’ premises. He knew, of course, that some judges were on the take from the mob, while a very few others had required unquestionable proof that such bugging was constitutional.
         Of course, NYPD could never put a bug inside a foreign embassy, though the FBI or CIA could. Now David had no clout with either organization and wouldn’t dare phone Frank English on such circumstantial evidence of highly questionable activities. As Kiley had said, no crime, no way for Interpol to bring a case. And David began, quite deliberately, to question his own judgments about the coincidences of three billionaire art collectors all seeming to be marginalized as bidders: in the case of Saito by possible poisoning; of Correia by kidnapping; and of Louden by attempted murder. Three people on three continents whose only common denominator was their wealth and their art collections. 
        
But he couldn’t help thinking, even hoping, there would be another attempt to get another bidder out of the game. Kiley had already weighed in that Stepanossky was the most likely candidate to arrange for bad things to happen to his competitors. But, since the incident with the Chinese delegate, David was no longer so sure he agreed. How would Stepanossky lure in a Chinese delegate to murder Louden, knowing that the would-be assassin would claim sanctuary in his own embassy, when the last thing the Chinese would want to see was fewer bidders on the painting?  He’d already ruled out Balaton for much the same reason.
         That left the Dutchman Dorenbosch, the Greek Danielides, and Shui of Taiwan. From what David knew, the first two had probably gained their wealth through connivance at the very least and very probably through criminal activities. Shui, while very shadowy, with his own history of corruption, had a decades’ old adversarial relationship with the Red Chinese, but, David thought, for that reason Shui would have to tread very lightly and stay out of the spotlight as much as possible. How could an anti-communist Shui ever get a minor embassy delegate to knock off Louden?  
        
Indeed, if the Vermeer was indeed sold to the Shui family back in the 1660s, it was one treasure they were obviously not able to get out of China after 1949, and there had to be very bad blood between the adversaries. Then again, the Chinese may not have had any inkling that the painting was done for the Shui family in the first place. They would have had to have puzzled out the same theory as had Katie and David and the Fordham professors, which was still highly speculative.
         In any case, the Chinese might try to shut Shui out of the auction for political reasons, even if he tried to bid through a third party. Were he found to be the one to order hits on his competitors, it would be impossible that he would be allowed to bid.
          It was all still a mass of circumstantial evidence, and David knew that if he were still a cop, he’d have nothing to justify an arrest of anyone, except the hit-and-run diplomat. It might all add up to a good magazine article for Katie, but not enough to bring to a grand jury.  
        
David was never one to concoct evidence in order to railroad a bastard everyone at NYPD knew was guilty—well, maybe once or twice—but since he now had no power of enforcement he felt far more frustrated than those times when he was beating his head against a bureaucratic stone wall. He’d never admit it to Katie, but, if one of the other billionaires had an accident in the coming week, David wouldn’t be unhappy to hear it.
         He thought of trying to call Dorenbosch, Danielides, Stepanossky and Shui directly, but he knew he hadn’t a chance of getting through without an official investigative title. Just to hear if those remaining four were living happily with their billions, he did call their corporate public relations offices for comment, though not expecting much if any of an actual report. Representing himself as a “researcher” for McClure’s, David would just ask the men’s whereabouts and if there was any chance of speaking to them directly.
         Dorenbosch’s spokesman said his boss was at the moment in Amsterdam, with no plans to travel until December. Danielides’ representative said only that he was on vacation, without saying where.  Stepanossky’s and Shui’s people refused any comment but said their employers were very well, thank you.
        In other words, David learned next to nothing.



©
John Mariani, 2016



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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
 

                                            THE PLEASURES OF RED WINES
                                    NOT DESIGNED TO ROCK YOUR SOCKS

                                                            By John Mariani


                                                                                                            "Bacchanalia" by Nicholas Poussin (1623)


      More than a few times I have inveighed against high alcohol wines, mostly reds but even some whites, that go above 14.5%, which is, sorry to say, an ever increasing trend. Maybe not even a trend but a new normalcy, with global warming a contributing factor. There are, of course, some wines, like Amarone della Valpolicella, that have always been high in alcohol in a style that defines them. But there are also a lot of vintners, led by the northern Californians, who deliberately hike their wines above 14.5%, which usually means an out-of-balance blockbuster full of tannins, with no guarantee they will mature into balance.
   Fortunately, there are still plenty of sensible wineries that distance themselves from that school, not least traditional producers in Bordeaux, Burgundy and Northern Italy. These wines are not overpowered by alcohol or tannins and reveal what the true charms of a wine should be, that is, a balance of fruit, acids and tannins that are as important as the correct tuning of a car’s engine or a guitar’s strings.
   Here are some of those wines I’m enjoying these days, sometimes while strumming my guitar and watching the cars race by.

 

 

COSENTINO “THE POET” MERITAGE 2000 ($65; current 2019 vintage is $55)—A Yountville masterpiece whose 14.4% alcohol and 22 years of maturity demonstrate what’s possible when winemakers are patient and seek equilibrium in their wines. It’s an unfined Meritage blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and 18% Malbec, and it’s silky and long-lasting, and the price is certainly right.

 

DRY CREEK CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 ($30)—Here’s a fine example of a why a Cabernet Sauvignon (77%), married with Merlot, Malbec, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc, can not only be so much more interesting that 100% Cab, but how it can be so boldly delicious at just 14% alcohol and such a terrifically sane price tag. It’s a youngster, so it should get better in a year or two, but tastes very good right now. 

 

NICOLAS & JAY BISHOP CREEK PINOT NOIR 2019 ($90 estimate)—I’ve long been a champion of Yamhill, Oregon, Pinot Noirs for the bright fruitfulness brought forth from grapes growing in a cooler climate, and, at 13% alcohol, much like the finest Burgundies, this has the finesse I seek in the varietal, making it easy to pair with a wide range of foods, not least wild Pacific salmon or Colorado lamb. A rainy season delayed ripening, followed by a dry August, which brought out the aromatics, and winemakers Jean-Cicolas Méo and Tracy Kendall did well by them. I tasted an early release, but this fall this is going be a real beauty. 

 

COUVENT DES THORINS MOULIN-À-VENT 2019 ($30)—The Gamay grape that goes into Beaujolais is a favorite of those who like big, fruity wines without high alcohol, and this 2019 vintage shows how well they can age into lovely, medium-body, 13% alcohol wines that are very versatile for almost everything but white-flesh fish. The soil has plenty of minerality, not least manganese and metallic oxides that provide bracing, flinty flavors that are so refreshing.

 

TWO ANGELS PETITE SIRAH 2018 ($25)—The label from this Oakville, California, winery reads, “the theme of the [two angels] is the hilarity of inebriation and trauma of the morning after. Excessive joy must be counted by equally excessive sorrow, with potential atonement for pleasure.” Quite a candid mouthful, that, but this is an awfully easy wine to drink, with 14.4% alcohol. It has the varietal’s deep purple color and floral nose, and delivers a lasting finish. It’s not easy to find 100% Petite Sirahs, and those of this quality are rare indeed.

 

 

 





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TOP TEN WAYS TO DIE, NUMBER 3


In Elizabethtown, PA, two people were rescued after they somehow fell into a partially filled chocolate tank while doing maintenance work at the Mars Wrigley plant. It was not clear how they fell into the tank, but emergency responders had to cut a hole in the bottom of the tank to save them.

 


 
















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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to two excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas

John Curtas has been covering the Las Vegas food scene since 1995. He is the author of EATING LAS VEGAS - The 52 Essential Restaurants, and his website can be found at www.EatingLV.com. You can find him on Instagram: @johncurtas and Twitter: @eatinglasvegas. 



              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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