MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
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IN THIS ISSUE THE STATE OF SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD TODAY By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER PEAK By John Mariani ANOTHER VERMEER CHAPTER 27 By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE
PLEASURES OF RED WINES By John Mariani ❖❖❖ On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. July
13 at 11AM EDT,I will be
interviewing Lynn DiMenna on A
History of Westchester County Country
Clubs. Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖ THE PRECARIOUS STATE OF SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD TODAY By John Mariani At a time when food shortages are
beginning to impact global markets, seafood
harvesting and sales have been particularly
vulnerable, owing to climate change, overfishing
and demand. Sustainability in the industry takes
many forms, including fish farming. To get a
perspective on what’s going on, I interviewed
Sam King, CEO & President of King’s Seafood
Company in San Diego, which opened its first
restaurant in 1984, now
with six different concepts with 22 locations
including 6 Water Grills, 12
King’s Fish Houses, Meat on Ocean, Pier
Burger, Lou & Mickey’s and 555 East. Seafood prices are through the
roof. Why? Seafood pricing has been
all over the board this year. All oysters are up
at least 15% to 20% over 2019 and some other
examples of the largest increases include halibut,
Chilean seabass, swordfish, jumbo lump crabmeat,
Barents Sea crab legs and many more. We have not
seen seafood prices affected too much regionally,
other than what is related to some of the labor
shortage issues that have happened. This has
happened across all regions. Starting five years,
North American hard-shell lobster pricing has
increased by 30-40% for several reasons. The first
was the introduction of the “Lobster Roll,” which
went national around five years or so ago, putting
tremendous pressure on lobster meat. The
second is the increasing middle class in China and
their appetite for live seafood products, which
has increased demand dramatically. In May
2016, our cost of a 2-pound lobster was $16.60,
but in May 2022, our cost was $33.50, which is
over a 100% increase in what may be the largest
increase of all of our seafood products during
that time. What is the situation
with wild salmon as opposed to farm-raised? In the past our company
has always enjoyed displaying our love of the
spring and summer salmon runs. Some years we
have had seven to eight different rivers
represented on our menus during a season run of
King Salmon, which
have included Copper, Columbia, Neets Bay, Nootka
Sound, and Queen Charlotte to name a few.
Unfortunately, the past several years has seen
these numbers reduced. For example, last year
we had only three rivers represented on our menus.
With the recent opening of Copper River last week,
we hope we will have more rivers to pull from this
year. Our company buys two
different farmed-raised salmon: One is an
Atlantic salmon from British Columbia that we buy
from Mowi, the largest producer, which has
certification from the GSSI (Global Sustainable
Seafood Initiative). At our Water Grills, we buy
farmed King Salmon from New Zealand when the wild
salmon is not available during the late fall and
winter. We believe that the great work of
some of the NGOs has helped keep farmed salmon
honest and has been necessary to require the farms
to operate at a much higher environmentally
sensitive level. If we were to eliminate the
4 billion pounds of farmed salmon consumption
annually, it would have devastating effects on
wild seafood stocks. What do you consider
the differences between wild and farm-raised
seafood? I spoke to the staff
members that operate the Aquarium of the Pacific
in Long Beach several years ago about this
subject. I knew this audience came in with an
anti-farming bias, so I came up with the theme of
looking at countries that were large proponents of
aquaculture and matching their Green Living
Rankings that were just listed in US News &
World Report. Interestingly, four
countries in the top 10—Norway, Japan, New
Zealand, and Canada—are also big in
aquaculture. My question to them was how
could these countries manage both of these
competing synergies. In fact, this is one of our
biggest frustrations with the state of California,
which has over 1,000 miles of pristine coastline
perfect for growing seafood products, so why do we
not lead the world in this genre? What exactly is flash
freezing and how does it affect the product? We’ve heard for many
years now that wild Mediterranean seafood is in
short supply. Our company utilizes
several products from the Mediterranean
Sea. Some of our Spanish octopus comes from
the Mediterranean Sea. We also purchase
farm-raised black bream and branzino, both farmed
in Turkey. These are the only items we
presently utilize from this region; however, it is
sad to read about some of the reducing fish stocks
in the area. Which overfished
species are you most concerned about?
Is the
industry suffering from supply chain issues? How has your
company committed to sustainability? King’s Seafood Company
has always been committed to both sustainability
and environmental stewardship. We have shown
leadership by committing money to research, being
on boards, such as the Aquarium of the Pacific and
the Wrigley Institute of Environmental Science,
and in many other ways. We also operate our
seafood distribution facility using recycled
trays, bins, and containers, allowing us to use
almost zero cardboard boxes for our seafood
deliveries to our restaurants. How have warmer waters
affected seafood? Warmer waters, if not
corrected, will continue to have a profound effect
on our seafood products. Whether it be algae
blooms that affect much of the predominate food in
the form of phytoplankton or marine food chains
that impact the pelagic food web. Warmer waters
also promote ocean acidification, which is harmful
to our shellfish populations. Our company
has invested with a group out of Washington State
that is working to help figure out what we can do
to move forward and help slow this process. ❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
PEAK
30 Hudson
Yards, 101st floor By John Mariani Photos by Alex Staniloff Only those who have dined at Windows
on the World in New York’s World Trade Center,
the Signature Room in Chicago or at sky-high
restaurants in Asian capitals and Dubai will
recognize that Peak, opened four days prior to
the Covid shut-down in 2019, is as
extraordinary as any. In terms of height
alone, at 1,149 feet, it takes the prize as
tallest of them all (these things change year
to year). And since Peak overlooks the
entirety of New York, with its panorama
including the Empire State Building, the East
and Hudson Rivers and, in the distance, that
Lady in the Harbor, there is no finer aerie
than this. Wedding proposals are an everyday
event.
Add to that
a lavish and creative menu by Christopher Cryer
and world-class wine list and you have quite a
total package no one—tourist or gourmand—could
dismiss as mere spectacle. Photo by Walter Bagley Open for lunch
and dinner daily. ANOTHER VERMEER CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN
As
helpful as Gerald Kiley had been thus far, it
bothered David that without credentials of his
own there were doors of investigation closed
to him. He was no longer with NYPD, didn’t
even have a private detective’s license, and
he began to think he was getting rusty in his
skills. While he was the head of NYPD’s
Special Investigations Unit, he could count on
access wherever he sought it, except in those
mob cases where, for reasons never revealed to
him, he was waved off, or forbidden by a judge
to plant recording devices in suspects’
premises. He knew, of course, that some judges
were on the take from the mob, while a very
few others had required unquestionable proof
that such bugging was constitutional. © John Mariani, 2016 ❖❖❖ ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE
PLEASURES OF RED WINES
More
than a few times I have inveighed against high
alcohol wines, mostly reds but even some whites,
that go above 14.5%, which is, sorry to say, an
ever increasing trend. Maybe not even a trend but
a new normalcy, with global warming a contributing
factor. There are, of course, some wines, like
Amarone della Valpolicella, that have always been
high in alcohol in a style that defines them. But
there are also a lot of vintners, led by the
northern Californians, who deliberately hike their
wines above 14.5%, which usually means an
out-of-balance blockbuster full of tannins, with
no guarantee they will mature into balance. COSENTINO “THE POET”
MERITAGE 2000 ($65; current 2019
vintage is $55)—A Yountville masterpiece whose 14.4%
alcohol and 22 years of maturity demonstrate what’s
possible when winemakers are patient and seek
equilibrium in their wines. It’s an unfined Meritage
blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc
and 18% Malbec, and it’s silky and long-lasting, and
the price is certainly right. DRY CREEK CABERNET
SAUVIGNON 2019 ($30)—Here’s a fine
example of a why a Cabernet Sauvignon (77%), married
with Merlot, Malbec, Petite Verdot and Cabernet
Franc, can not only be so much more interesting that
100% Cab, but how it can be so boldly delicious at
just 14% alcohol and such a terrifically sane price
tag. It’s a youngster, so it should get better in a
year or two, but tastes very good right now. NICOLAS & JAY
BISHOP CREEK PINOT NOIR 2019 ($90 estimate)—I’ve long
been a champion of Yamhill, Oregon, Pinot Noirs for
the bright fruitfulness brought forth from grapes
growing in a cooler climate, and, at 13% alcohol,
much like the finest
Burgundies, this has the finesse I seek in the
varietal, making it easy to pair with a wide range
of foods, not least wild Pacific salmon or Colorado
lamb. A rainy season delayed ripening, followed by a
dry August, which brought out the aromatics, and
winemakers Jean-Cicolas Méo and Tracy Kendall did
well by them. I tasted an early release, but this
fall this is going be a real beauty. COUVENT DES THORINS
MOULIN-À-VENT 2019 ($30)—The Gamay grape
that goes into Beaujolais is a favorite of
those who like big, fruity wines without high
alcohol, and this 2019 vintage shows how well they
can age into lovely, medium-body, 13% alcohol wines
that are very versatile for almost everything but
white-flesh fish. The soil has plenty of minerality,
not least manganese and metallic oxides that provide
bracing, flinty flavors that are so refreshing.
TWO ANGELS PETITE
SIRAH 2018 ($25)—The label from this
Oakville, California, winery reads, “the theme of
the [two angels] is the hilarity of inebriation and
trauma of the morning after. Excessive joy must be
counted by equally excessive sorrow, with potential
atonement for pleasure.” Quite a candid mouthful,
that, but this is an awfully easy wine to drink,
with 14.4% alcohol. It has the varietal’s deep
purple color and floral nose, and delivers a lasting
finish. It’s not easy to find 100% Petite Sirahs,
and those of this quality are rare indeed. ❖❖❖ TOP TEN WAYS TO DIE, NUMBER 3
❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to two excellent travel
sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences."
Eating Las
Vegas John Curtas has
been covering the Las Vegas food scene since
1995. He is the author of EATING LAS
VEGAS - The 52 Essential Restaurants,
and his website can be found at www.EatingLV.com. You can find him
on Instagram: @johncurtas and Twitter:
@eatinglasvegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
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