❖❖❖
IN THIS ISSUE SAN SEBASTIÁN AND BILBAO By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER LA DEVOZIONE LA TAVOLA By Geoff Kalish ANOTHER VERMEER CHAPTER 34 By John Mariani ❖❖❖ On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. August
31 at 11AM EDT,I will be
interviewing Jeffrey Sussman, about
his book on NYC Gangsters. Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖ SAN SEBASTIÁN AND BILBAO Old Town, San Sebastián By Geoff Kalish
Expectations of magnificent art
works, unique fare and world class lodging
facilities heightened our anticipation of a
recent 3-day visit to Spain’s northeastern
Basque Country. And the experience did not
disappoint, providing insight into the
popularity and delights of its two most
well-known cities, San Sebastián and Bilbao.
Maria Cristina Hotel, San Sebastián
For dinner
another evening, a 15-minute walk from the
hotel, at the base of the San Telmo Museum, we
dined on the outdoor terrace at ZazpiSTM
(left), which looks as casual as
Kata.4 but serves exquisite Michelin star
quality fare. Our dinner began with amuse
bouches of a small bowl of salad greens in a
delicate vegetable broth accompanied by a
sandwich composed of a tasty cod mousse between
crisp grain crackers. Appetizers consisted of
sea urchin ravioli floating in a bowl of creamy
langoustine bisque topped with basil foam and
what was listed as a lobster salad with white
garlic and
pickled vegetables, which consisted of a small
mound of crisp greens on a plate with tasty
chunks of lobster meat, each accompanied by
barely cooked pickled carrots, fish roe and a
dab of lobster sauce.
Dr. Geoff Kalish
writes about travel, food and wine for several
publications. He lives in Mount Kisco, NY.
❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
LA DEVOZIONE LA TAVOLA
428
West 16th Street By John Mariani
Describing
La
Devozione as an establishment where the
little things matter is both very true but
not nearly praise enough for how every
detail—from the décor to the packaging,
from the quality of the pasta and the icy
coldness of the cocktails—has been
carefully looked after, calibrated, tested
and made part of a whole concept that
begins up front with an Italian market and
moves to a counter space for tasting meals
and the nook-like La
Tavola trattoria, as casually
comfortable as it is happily colorful.
My friends and I were cordially
received at La Tavola by manager Phil
Davoric, who is happy to explain what makes
La Devozione’s approach to pasta different,
aside from using the company’s pastas (made
from Italian durum wheat and cut with bronze
dies). Aside from some excellent antipasti
I’ll get to in a moment, all else is pasta,
but even among those dishes that might be
found elsewhere in town, there are some
subtle and not-so-subtle distinctions here.
For one thing, they are not kidding
when they say on the menu, “al dente, the
authentic Italian way of cooking pasta, firm
to the bite, to enhance the flavor of your
dish, digest it better and reduce glycemic
index.” Even those who like their pasta
cooked “to the tooth” may find La Tavola’s
considerably firmer, even more than is usual
in Italy. But timing is key to each
different shape and sauce. Next, there are
several “seasonal” pastas using vegetable
and other ingredients sourced from the Union
Square Greenmarket. (Curiously, now in August, the printed
menu still says “Spring.”) Third, there are
six “Untouchables,” referring to Neapolitan
classics that are never off the menu
maintained by Executive Chef Alessio Rossetti.
Let’s begin, however, with the
antipasti: A frittatina
of pasta ($16) comes in a rich besciamella
cream with peas, ham and Parmigiano that you
will mop up with slices of Italian bread. A
“Lollipop di Macaroni” is La Tavola’s
version of mac-and-cheese (yellow and white
cheddar) ennobled by a truffled hazelnut
sauce ($15), while trottole
alla caprese is a salad of buffalo
mozzarella, tomatoes and basil ($18). Orzo
tiepido ($15) is a bowl of tepid
little pasta nubs mixed with sweet summer
vegetables. Any of these should be shared at
the table.
And so, the
pastas: Naples, and its region of Campania,
is rightly credited with making some of the
finest tomato-based sauces in the world—this
is where the famous San Marzano tomatoes are
grown—and
I never thought I would find a better
rendering of simple spaghetti with tomato
and basil than I had at lunch at a winery
named Cantina del Vesuvio—a perfect amalgam
of sweetness, texture, aroma and the flavors
of very ripe tomatoes, excellent olive oil
and sunny basil. Now, if I cannot claim that
La Tavola’s is better than that nonpareil,
it is easily its equal, and no wonder the
menu calls the dish “La Devozione” ($28). It
is an immediate template for all other
recipes everywhere else. (The secret is that
the spaghetti is cooked till still quite
firm, then cooked four minutes more in the
fresh tomato sauce to absorb its flavors.) Ziti
taglialati lisci alla Norma
($28) is the traditional, very hearty
mélange of tomato, scamorza
cheese, ricotta salata and eggplant,
while equally hefty is the candele
(shaped like candle tubes) with a classic
Neapolitan meat ragù ($27) made from long
simmered spareribs and generously
incorporated with Parmigiano. The spiciest
of the pastas is the penne
all’arrabbiata ($23), lashed with hot
chilies.
The most heralded pasta on the menu
is the twin-noodle called gemelli
in a pesto evoking the modernist
creations of Modena’s star chef Massimo
Bottura, here done with mint, basil, garlic,
breadcrumbs and Parmigiano ($28), which I
found the least successful of the pastas.
Removing the pignoli nuts essential to a
Ligurian pesto’s special flavor and texture
is explained as “remade for sustainability,”
though I had no idea pignoli were in danger
of extinction. The dish lacked the bright
green of a well-made pesto, appearing
slightly gummy and olive green. Pecorino,
not Parmigiano, adds a better balance to the
dish, too. In any case, a percentage of
proceeds of each dish will support Chef
Bottura Food for Soul and the New York-based
project Refettorio Harlem.
These pasta dishes are all more than
ample for a main course, and our table of
four brought some home. There are no meat or
fish courses afterwards anyway. But there
are some delightful desserts, including a
grandma’s ricotta torta
($12), perfectly flakey sfogiatelle
with citrus ricotta and vanilla gelato
($12), and a baba soaked with rum ($14).
Despite the concept of La Tavola as a
simple trattoria, the wine list by Max
Tierno would be exemplary anywhere in town.
Largely Italian but with other countries’
wines, it has surprising breadth and depth,
and though I can’t imagine too many people
ordering the $2,250 bottle of 1990 Pergola
Torte, there are some very good bargains,
like the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano at
$50.
So, too, bartender Cristhian Rodriguez
is that very rare breed who truly cares
about the composition, balance and
temperature of a well-made cocktail.
By the way, at the oval counter La
Devozione features a four-course pasta lunch
at $95 and seven courses at diner for $165,
which sounds excessive, and the night I
visited, no one had taken that option.
Like many shops and
eateries in Chelsea Market,
La Devozione is tucked away and well worth
seeking out, for although the menu may
resemble any number of other trattorias in
Manhattan, few come close to the authentic
flavors achieved here in such a deceptively
simple way. ❖❖❖ ANOTHER VERMEER By John Mariani CHAPTER THIRTY-FOUR
Katie
called Kevin O’Keeffe to ask, “So, how’s this
all work now?” © John Mariani, 2016
❖❖❖ TELL US MORE. NO, WAIT, DON'T
TELL US MORE
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