MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  November 6, 2022                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



Founded in 1996 

ARCHIVE



"Hespere  and the Golden Apple" by Galina Dargery (2016)



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IN THIS ISSUE
OLD SAYBROOK GAINS
A NEW CULINARY STAR

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
JALAO

By John Mariani

ANOTHER VERMEER
CHAPTER FORTY-FOUR
By John Mariani


NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
FOURTH EDITION OF THE COMPLETE BORDEAUX
By John Mariani




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IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT! THERE WILL BE NO EDITION OF MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER NEXT WEEK (NOV. 13) BECAUSE MARIANI WILL BE DINING AROUND IN ITALY FOR HIS READERS' EDIFICATION.















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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. NOVEMBER 9,  at 11AM EDT,I will be interviewing Prof. Christina Carlson on  WHO, ME? New Revelations About Geoffrey Chaucer's Rape Allegation. Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.






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OLD SAYBROOK GAINS
A NEW CULINARY STAR

 

By John Mariani






 

           Old Saybrook, which is principally one long Main Street, dates back to 1624, with Dutch origins, then as Saybrook Colony in 1635 it came under English rule.  In 1701 the Collegiate School of Connecticut was chartered there, before moving to New Haven a decade later to become Yale University. So, the town clearly has much historical interest for anyone traveling up the New England coastline.
        In 2009 the town fathers converted the old town hall to the Katharine Hepburn Cultural Arts Center and Theater.  Kate lived in nearby Fenwick, and there’s a room named after her at the 135-year-old Saybrook Point Inn and Spa, which has been restored and expanded with a main house, a large guest house across the road and a marina, all of them set on the edge of the fast-running  Connecticut River and Long Island Sound.  The Inn once had a reputation as refuge for show biz stars and mobsters, thereby lending the Inn a rakish glamour.  It also has a fine restaurant on the premises, called Fresh Salt.
       There’s not been much else in the way of restaurants to draw out-of-towners to Old Saybrook until recently. With the opening of The Essex (relocated this year from the town of Centerbrook to the north), it now has a chef and restaurant that would definitely be worth a drive from New Haven, about a half-hour away, with Providence 75 miles north. Here, in a warmly lighted cottage-like building with 42 seats off Main Street, Colt Taylor (his wife Katey selected the 100 wines on the list) is among those New England chefs who have a strong devotion to the traditions of seafood, vegetables and meats appended with the kinds of ideas and spices long ago drawn to such a great trading, seafaring region.
            The room could hardly be cozier, and everyone looks like a regular in their Orvis sweaters and Abercrombie & Fitch barn coats. The tables are lovingly set with white cloths and candles and a single flower, the lighting is good, the noise level not bad. There’s a bar as you enter and a snug open kitchen where Taylor has installed a young crew, for some their first cooking job. There’s a chef’s tasting menu of five courses at a very reasonable $85 and seven at $105, as well as a la carte, and portions are generous. 
       
An unexpected and unusually delicious  canapé arrived of lustrous b
igeye tuna glossed with olive oil and American caviar over cucumber  rounds.  Also, a small cup of not-very-appealing-looking broth turned out to be truly delicious—a much reduced lobster and beef pot au feu. The most delightful of starters is the sweet, creamy devil crab pithivier, with lobster, spicy pepper mustard and almond ($19). A third amuse was a simple potato chip swabbed with Dijon mustard, pickled ginger and a crab salad that sparked the palate. Rich in seafood, the menu also features Ōra King salmon belly ($18), well fatted, with wakame kelp, crème fraîche, stone fruit, togarashi seasoning and a Japanese milk bread similar to brioche.
         The main courses began with delicate Hawaiian walu white tuna crudo ($19) with golden rice, black sesame, wasabi, espellete pepper, apple and radish that was a medley of textures and mild-hot and spicy flavors.
This is New England,  so by all means have the clam chowder ($19), pumped up with sugar kelp, dulse and kombu kelp that add measurably to the levels of briny flavor to a dish that by tradition can often be bland. Silky sablefish is seared and marinated with miso, and XO-sauced creamed French lentils, bok choy and  citrus salad of pickled herbs, whose flavors and textures all  come together wonderfully ($38). It is all a delicate balancing act.
        This is autumn and a hearty dish indeed is the halibut and lobster bourride with mussels, the zestiness of lemon, Georgia candy roaster squash and sourdough ($38).
        Of the three desserts I sampled (all $10) , I’d recommend the creamy chocolate budino or the intense chocolate s’mores tart over a “Birthday cake” that really didn’t taste much different from the run-of-the-mill variety.
        Taylor is a chef of strong opinions, based on sustainability and environmental concerns, though his dependence on so many ingredients not from the New England farms and waters, like Pacific Northwest salmon, New Zealand salmon, caviar from North Carolina, wagyu from Idaho,  and meat from Australia makes it seem disingenuous for his website’s to claim that he showcases the provender of the Connecticut River Valley.      
       
Nevertheless, Taylor is a major talent and quite obviously buys high quality ingredients and treats them with a simple grace and intelligence that have obviously made an impression on guests who can taste the distinction. 

           

Open for dinner Tues.-Sat.

 

 




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NEW YORK CORNER

 

                                            JALAO NYC

                                                                                                        2420 Amsterdam Avenue

                                                                                                                929-688-4684
     

                                                                             By John Mariani

 

            As anyone (of the few, apparently) who saw last year’s movie In the Heights knows, the Washington Heights neighborhood at the northern tip of Manhattan is a vibrant section with the moniker of Little Dominican Republic. Until now, restaurants featuring the food of that Caribbean island have been modest and few in number, but the dazzling, brand new Jalao NYC ups the ante considerably, for style, sophistication and just plain fun.
            This is the first offshoot of a popular Santo Domingo restaurant of the same name, opened in 2016 by Antonio Espaillat and his wife Montserrat (whose company also owns 50 radio and TV stations in the DR), along with operating partner and consulting chef Richard Sandoval and Executive Chef
Noemi Guzman.  At Jalao NY the chef is Wilmer Chuquillanqui, Peruvian by birth, and Radhames Corporan is the manager.
        Located in the new Radio Hotel, Jalao NYC is more glamorous than its Santo Domingo original, with dazzling, rich colors everywhere, Carnival masks, a palm motif, rattan and upholstered booths, beautiful painted tables and a glass wall with a brilliant, leafy Flamboyant Tree painted on it, a brightly lit bar and, outside, when the weather allows, a huge space for cocktails, dining and music.  In the dining room, unobtrusive Caribbean music plays softly.
            The menu is of good size, but not bewilderingly so, sectioned off into bocaditos (starters), Caribbean-style ceviche, caldos and salads, main dishes and items from the parilla grill. There is, of course, a signature cocktail list—the margarita with passion-fruit juice and hibiscus-rosemary foam is worth trying—and the collection of spirits is impressive. But I wish the modest wine list had more Central and South American bottlings.
            We asked the chef to serve us family-style, so we enjoyed a wide range of dishes, starting off with a major hit in the chicharron y casaba ($16) of amazingly crispy pork belly boiled down and the heat turned up to make the skin crunch, with sweet caramelized plantains and a traditional savory, lime-tinged green sauce called wasakaka. Bombones de yuca ($14) are deep-fried pop-in-the-mouth balls of cassava dough filled with cheddar that you dip into a sauce of pineapple and chipotle.  Very tasty, juicy goat’s meat-filled croquets ($14) are served with an avocado spuma.
        This is rich food in every way, workingman’s fare refined, so dishes may be shared if you plan to order a lot from the menu.
        By all means get the sancocho ($12 or $26), a hearty stew chock full of chicken, beef, pork, root vegetables and an ear of corn (below), served with white rice and avocado.  The other item to get for a table of two is the dramatically presented pecao frito ($59), which is a deep-fried red snapper of succulent chunks of the fish, cherry tomatoes and red onion displayed arrayed within the fanned fish’s bones.
            As befits a Caribbean restaurant, there are grilled beef dishes done as churrascso. Here they take a 14-ounce ribeye, sear it perfectly, keeping the inside rosy red, and serve it with a spicy chimichurri sauce. At $49 it’s a great deal for a good deal of meat.
            Desserts ($13) are as sumptuous as what comes before, and I loved both the cinco leches
 cake, and the cinnamon-tinged majarete corn custard topped with ice cream.
            Jalao NYC is easy enough to get to from any point in Manhattan, the Bronx, Westchester or eastern New Jersey—it’s just north of the George Washington Bridge, just south of Yeshiva University and just west of the Harlem River—so if you’ve never had this kind of food before I would make it a requisite visit for any peripatetic gourmand. For any Dominican in the area Jalao NYC is a terrific emblem of the island’s food culture.

 

Open nightly for dinner.

 





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ANOTHER VERMEER

By John Mariani



To read previous chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to the archive

NOTE:
Since there will be no issue of the Virtual Gourmet next week, I've provided readers with two combined chapters of Another Vermeer.
 


CHAPTER FORTY-FOUR

 

Taipei Dadaocheng Dock Area

 

         The SUV pulled away from the Shui Building parking lot and headed away from the main street, going down back roads and making many turns that took advantage of traffic lights about to turn red so as to prevent any suspicious cars from following.  The Chinese were silent throughout the trip until they arrived in the Dadaocheng dock area of the city, where Guo gave them directions to a slip far from the main part of the port, then used his mobile phone to call someone.
         They arrived close to the end of an isolated dock, where two men were getting a trawler ready to depart, its engine still quiet. 
        
“Oh, no,” said Katie, “not another boat ride!”
         “I guess so,” said David, remembering a similar sailing they took during the Capone caper.
         The Chinese thugs got into the boat first, then Guanting and Guo, nudging Katie and David forward, with the two boatmen helping them aboard.  The Americans were ushered below decks, where it was dark but with enough light from small portholes for Katie and David to see. 
        
After a few more minutes, Guanting  and Guo doffed their suit jackets in favor of  life jackets, which the crew members also wore. None was offered to Katie and David.
        Hours passed until twilight and darkness came on fast. Finally the trawler was unhitched from the dock, its lights on, and started sailing slowly out of the harbor, then south into Taiwan Strait. The captain of the trawler knew not to sail beyond the twelve-nautical-mile legal limit of Taiwan’s territorial waters, where, only the year before, the Red Chinese had launched test missiles to intimidate the government of Taiwan prior to the 1996 elections. 
       
Nevertheless, without Katie and David knowing it, Guo told the captain to go several miles beyond the limit, apparently to leave any evidence of any crime in Red Chinese waters.  He also knew the Taiwan harbor police did not patrol out that far.
         As the boat got about six miles out, the captain shut down its lights, with only the dashboard lights in his cabin glowing. There had been the sound of clanging buoys earlier and Katie tried to stifle the thought that they sounded like the knell of graveyard bells. Now there was just the sound of the lapping of the waves.
        
At first Katie said little to David, watching his face trying to figure some way out, but it all seemed futile. 
        
“What would 007 do in a situation like this?” she asked, feebly trying to sound upbeat.
         “Bond would punch all his captors out, then shoot them with their own guns,” said David, “but that’s because his idiot captors never bothered to handcuff him.  Instead they’d give him one of his own cigarettes, which blew up in their faces.  Our thugs are slightly smarter.”
         “Any friendly whales in these waters?” she asked, smiling weakly.  David smiled back but said nothing, then, “Fucking Coleman.”
         “I know,” said Katie. “It is unbelievable that he would be one of Shui’s stooges.”
         “Well, now, let’s think back. Coleman was eager to help us get an appointment with Shui, right? And that was before you alerted him to our theory about the accidents?  What did he say when you told him?”
         Katie thought back. “He sounded very surprised, and when I asked him if he thought I should bring it up with Shui, Coleman said maybe he should do it first, before we arrive in Taiwan. That would have alerted Shui, but Coleman didn’t know about Chin confessing to the feds.  We only found that out this morning. So, I’m thinking that Coleman maybe phoned Shui to tell him that we had this theory but no proof of anything. I refuse to believe John would hand us over to be murdered by Shui.”
         “Well,” said David, “remember one thing: Who besides Kiley and us had the list of six probable collectors?”
         “John did.”
         “And who did he get the list from?”
         Katie swallowed hard. “From me.  He got it from me.”
         “Exactly, so Shui got the list from Coleman. Saito was already dead, and Shui might well have guessed who his main competitors would be, but the violent acts have all been directed to the people specifically on that list. That became the kill list.”
         “And only John could give it to him,” said Katie. “Oh, my God!”  
        
“Coleman suckered you, Katie, but listen, it’s probable Coleman gave Shui the list without any idea it would involve trying to knock the collectors off or cripple them. You never even told him anything about Lauden and Chin beyond what he’d read in the papers.
       “Coleman used the list for his own purposes, which, as it turned out, was to compromise everyone on it, under orders from Shui.  Then he gets invited first class to Taiwan by Shui, and Coleman goes light on him in the article.  I’m pretty sure that was the extent of Coleman’s involvement. I don’t think he shared our theory until you told it to him a few days ago.”
         “So, you don’t think he knew Shui would try to murder us in the hotel?”
         “I dunno,” said David. “It’s very, very tough for me to believe that.  Coleman’s not the type. I think he was just warning his Taiwanese benefactor to be careful during the interview because we had this theory about Shui’s involvement.”
         “God, I hope you’re right, David. But he’s still a bastard.”
         “And he’s probably going to be indicted as an accessory, if the feds can prove it.  I’m sure he’ll spill everything he knows and plead that he is innocent about the criminal part of the deal.”
         “Well, he’s sure as shit going to be fired and never work in journalism again. But I wanna see the little bastard get put away.”
         Guo came down to see his captives.
         “How much longer we going to be on this piece of junk?” asked David.
         “This is not a junk,” said Guo. “It’s a trawler. Junks have big sails.”
         “I don’t give a rat’s ass,” said David. “How much longer to get wherever the hell it is we’re going?”
         “You should be happy we are still moving.  It means you are still alive. But it will not be long now.”
         With that Guo called the two crew members and said something in Chinese that caused them to bring down four sand bags, looking to weigh about ten pounds each.
         Katie let out a scream. David cursed at Guo, who slapped him across the face.  Then the two crewmen began tying the sandbags on each leg of their captives. Katie was panic-stricken, wailing.  David tried to calm her down but she just kept looking at the sandbags and kicking her feet in a futile struggle.  Finally the tying up was done and the crewmen went back up on deck.
         Oddly enough, David was thinking about how this method of killing an enemy had long been used by the mobsters he chased back in New York, and how the NYPD had dragged the waters around Manhattan and Brooklyn, only to find rotted corpses fed on by the fish. Nothing he’d ever seen all his years on the job ever prepared him for that sight, and he started to hyperventilate.
         “David, what’s the matter?” screamed Katie, thinking her only hope was having a heart attack.
         “S’okay, s’okay, I’m okay now,” he said, calming himself down. “Katie, I just want you to know, that after everything we’ve been through, I’m crazy about you.”
         “I love you too, David. You’ve been like a big brother to me.”
         That was not what David was hoping to hear, but before he could say anything else, the night’s silence was broken by the startling loud blast of a fog horn, followed by the whooping sounds of what David recognized as a police boat.
         “What’s that?” asked Katie, her eyes as wide as they could open.
         “It’s a police boat!  It’s a fucking police boat!” 
        
For a brief, irrational moment David imagined it would be his cop friend Bobby Bao riding the prow of a Taipei police boat, or maybe Gerry Kiley with a squad of Interpol cops.  The sound of the whoops and the boat’s motor were getting closer very fast, and Katie and David heard a man speaking Chinese loudly through a bullhorn. 
       
They also saw Guo, Guanting and the crewmen of the trawler scrambling.  Guo was clearly telling the others to get the Americans from below decks and throw them into the sea as quickly as possible, but both Katie and David used all their strength and adrenaline to kick back. Then they heard the crack of a rifle coming from the police boat and more shouts through the bullhorn.  A moment later, they felt the police boat hit the side of the trawler hard enough to knock everyone onboard down.
         More Chinese shouts, another rifle shot, and the men on the trawler put their hands up, having failed to get Katie and David off the boat. Then there was the sound of men boarding the trawler, speaking Chinese forcefully and rapidly.  Guo, Guonting and the crew got down on their stomachs, and David could just see the police standing over them with what looked like MP5 semi-automatic guns.
         The police aimed the rifles below decks until they heard Katie and David shout, “Americans! Don’t shoot!” raising their hands high above their heads.  An officer descended and told his men to untie the sandbags but to leave the handcuffs for the time being.
         “Do any of you speak English?” asked Katie. One of the younger policemen said, “I speak little.”
         “Thank God, listen”—she spoke very clearly and as calmly as she could—“these men kidnapped us in Taipei and were going to kill us. Throw us into the ocean.”
         The policeman didn’t answer but told the officer what he heard.  The officer nodded, spoke back, and soon they were brought aboard the sleek and obviously very fast police boat. Katie and David, still in cuffs, motioned to the officer to have them removed, which he did.  The two Americans rubbed their wrists, which showed considerable chafing.
        “Sheh-sheh,” said Katie, approximating the sounds of xièxiè, “thank you.” David gave the word a try, too, then, his hands free, David went up to Guo and smashed a fist into his face, breaking the man’s nose.  “That’s for shoving my friend to the ground back on land.”
         The police pulled David away but released him.
         Order restored, the four men were brought below decks and locked in a very small, cramped cell.
         “So you are the Taipei harbor police?” asked Katie.
         The officer looked at his younger colleague, who translated then said, “No, no, we not Taipei. We Hong Kong. Hong Kong.”
         David looked at Katie and said, “Hong Kong? How far away from Taipei could we be?”
         The young policeman struggled to say, “You cross line, too far, too far. This China water. No Taiwan water.” Then he pointed towards a red, white and blue flag of the Chinese maritime police and the words ‘HONG KONG” printed below Chinese characters on the boat’s tower.  “See, Hong Kong.”
         So Katie and David had been rescued by the Hong Kong maritime police, apparently because they were in what they claimed were the sovereign waters of the People’s Republic of China. The policeman continued: “We go back Hong Kong. You talk there.”
         “Something tells me we are out of the frying pan and into the fire,” said Katie.
         “Maybe, maybe not,” said David. “We’re just going to have to wait and see.  Any idea how far Hong Kong is from where we are?”
         “Not close. I’d say, like 500 nautical miles.”
         “We’re going to sail 500 miles on this boat?”
         His question was answered by the young policeman, who told them as best he could that another larger boat was coming in a few hours and they would be transferred to that and on to Hong Kong but the next evening.  The Americans were offered some tea and rice, and within three hours sailing southwest, the police boat met the much larger vessel. 
        
After being checked out by the ship’s medical personnel, who spoke English, Katie and David were given separate cabins and told they would be in Hong Kong the following day.
         “You will be interviewed in the morning before we land. Meanwhile, we will take your passports, if you please.  They will be returned in Hong Kong.”
         Katie was bold enough to ask, “Is there any way we could make calls to the United States?”
         “Perhaps later.  Not until you have your interview and we learn details of what happened tonight.”
         “We’d be happy to tell you right now,” said David, fending off post-adrenaline fatigue and the aches from being bound for so long.
         “Tomorrow morning,” the man said, got up and walked off.
         “Everyone’s got his own protocol,” said David to Katie. “I guess this is what they call a slow boat to China. Guess the only thing to do is get a good night’s sleep.”
         “I think that is going to be very easy,” said Katie, who was already yawning.  Within a half hour, after showers and fresh clothes—Katie fit quite well into a sailor’s white fatigues—that were in their rooms.  As soon as she put her head on the pillow, her eyes closed. Then she bolted straight up and screamed, “Damnit!  That bastard Guo has my tape recorder!”







©
John Mariani, 2016





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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR




FOURTH EDITION OF
THE COMPLETE BORDEAUX


By John Mariani






 


 

         A major overhaul, delayed by Covid for two years, of The Complete Bordeaux: The Wines, The Chateaux, The People by Stephen Brook (Mitchell Beazley, $75) comes at a time of upheaval in French vineyards, given changes in global markets, climate change and agro-tourism. I posed questions to Brooks about this latest edition.

 

 

This is the 4th edition. What is different now?

Five years is a long time in Bordeaux. There are numerous changes in ownership, as well as changes in generation. The celebrated consultants, such as Michel Rolland, are still around, but being supplemented by a new crop of younger experts who may be more adept at dealing with issues such as climate change. There has been a remarkable expansion in organic and biodynamic farming, as proprietors are urged to take greater account of environmental concerns. Sauternes, long seen as a perfect way to lose money, is undergoing a revolution, as new entrepreneurs buy estates and transform them, creating hotels, and reducing the production of sweet wines to reflect the limited demand while expanding production of dry white wines. So plenty to write about, not to mention a succession of fine new vintages.

 

As someone who wrote five editions of The Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink, I doubt there will ever be another, because looking up the entries within can just as easily, if not as dependably, find a great deal of information online. Is this the future or the fate of books like yours?

Yes, that's quite likely. For some years I revised Hugh Johnson's Wine Companion, essentially an encyclopedia of wine, but new editions ceased as potential purchasers realized they could find much of the same information on websites. The Complete Bordeaux is different, in that I voice opinions too. The content is not solely factual. Also I am 100% independent, whereas chateau websites clearly have an agenda. Nonetheless, I doubt there will be many more editions!

 

You write that Covid prevented you from visiting Bordeaux in 2021. How did you handle that gap?

I was fortunate, in having good contacts with growers' associations in all parts of Bordeaux, and similar contacts with groupings such as the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois, and with merchants and consultants. Without exception, they responded to my requests for samples of recent vintages, so I was able to taste hundreds of wines here in London. There were also many Zoom calls with producers and winemakers.

 

You write that, unlike the wineries of Napa Valley, Barossa Valley and Burgundy, the Bordeaux vintners all seem reluctant to have visitors and do not communicate well with the public. And that it’s getting worse, even among vintners you visited in the past. Why is this?

When I started visiting Bordeaux in the mid-1980s, a phone call to a chateau was usually sufficient to result in a visit and tasting. That's because there were relatively few visitors. Now, wine lovers descend on Bordeaux from all over the world, and few chateaux have the facilities to welcome hundreds of visitors each day. Some properties (e.g., Lynch Bages) have always welcomed visitors (mostly by appointment) and properties in less prestigious areas, such as Fronsac or Graves, are often pleased to accept visitors for a visit and tasting. Bear in mind that the weather is clement year round in Napa or much of Australia, whereas in Bordeaux the climate is miserable from November to March, making it very costly to maintain staff and infrastructure for visitors when very few are around.

 

You write that "we the privileged," meaning people in the trade and authors like yourself, have access to staying at the châteaux. How does this generosity affect your response to what they are offering you to drink?

I think the honest answer is yes. Over many decades it’s inevitable that certain proprietors become friends. Not just because they invariably agree to a visit or request for samples, but because they are valued as reliable sources of information. Some owners court the press by toadying to them, but others (such as Olivier Bernard at Chevalier) see the value of two-way communication. But I have never been leaned on to provide a glowing review or tasting note, and I have never hesitated to express disappointment, even from estates I respect.

 

Do you always taste your wines blind?

During the UGC primeur tastings the press can choose to taste blind or not blind. I always tasted blind. But more and more chateaux insist on a personal visit to taste, so tasting blind isn't an option. I also participate in wine competitions, where the wines are tasted blind. It's a tricky issue, especially during primeurs, when you aren't tasting a finished wine. I recall tasting a wine blind that turned out to be Lynch-Bages. It showed poorly, so I retasted the wine non-blind, and can defend doing so. Some samples are defective, and even the finest palate can show signs of fatigue resulting in poor judgment from time to time. I have always refused to score primeur wines (too young and unfinished, and you don't know how the sample has been assembled), so for me it's not a major issue.

 

You write that many Bordeaux vintners do a form of filtering their wines but in answer to the question do they filter, they say no. Please explain.

Filtration has varying degrees of severity. A sterile filtration can be damaging to a wine, whereas a coarse filtration (known, I think, in the New World as a "rocks and frogs" filtration) primarily seeks to remove any solids that remain after racking. But I'm not dogmatic about this. If a winemaker is convinced a wine needs filtration to be presentable, I'll accept that judgment. Routine sterile filtration is more of an issue with high-volume wines that need to be consistent and acceptable to consumers who don't understand (why should they?) that wine can throw a natural deposit.

 

You write that it is more or less useless to speak about barrels used and how they have been toasted because the nuances can be so small. So you have chosen not to speak about which barrels are used. Correct?

It's beyond my expertise to determine whether a wine has a certain character or quality because the winemaker chose Taransaud rather than Darnajou barrels. Moreover, many winemakers at top chateaux hand-commssion and hand-select their barrels. So Ch X’s Taransaud may well differ from Ch Y's. Moreover, it’s almost impossible for a journalist to know which barrels made it into the final blend. Tasting the same wine from different barrels can be a fascinating exercise for professionals, but I think consumers are rightly more interested in the final product.

 

How does your book on Bordeaux differ from those written by Robert Parker, Michael Broadbent, Neil Martin and Jane Hansen? You say that bottles can vary widely and that some are even fakes provided to the wine writers. Does this make tasting notes, based on one bottle, useless?

One major difference is that I don't score wines in my book, though I do provide tasting notes. I'm not interested in ranking wines. Clearly, I need to assess their style and quality, and I dare say some personal preferences come through. It's not really for me to say whether my books are more reliable or more informative than those of my fellow writers! Bottle variation is only a real problem with cask samples, which can easily be manipulated to subdue tannins or make them more appealing in their youth (when initial scores are bestowed). And, of course, bottles of ancient wines can and do vary. For wines within 10 years of the vintage it's not really an issue.

 

At a time of PC correctness have you taken any heat for calling Bordeaux “virile" wines?

I don't think so. I do try to avoid terms such as 'feminine,’ often used to describe Margaux wines. But a young Medoc from a good property can, I think, usefully be described as virile or muscular.

 

How has climate change affected Bordeaux and what do you see in the next 10 years of change?

A big question! And it's one I address in my introductory chapters. There are wines from 2010 and 2018 with 15.5% alcohol. That may be fine in Barossa or Paso Robles, but it robs Bordeaux of its typicity. Most chateaux are well aware of this, and are making changes to farming and yields, so as to achieve full ripeness at lower sugar, and thus alcohol, levels. But I’s not easy to do. Conversely, climate change has benefitted areas such as Castillon or Francs,  where grapes use to struggle to ripen. Today that is rarely an issue, resulting in greatly improved wines. The authorities are now permitting the planting of alternative varieties, but it will be many years before they become significant components of major wines. This, too, is something I address in my book.

 

It seems that this book would take up an enormous amount of your time. Are you already working on a fifth edition? I have written more than 40 books on many topics not about wine.  I'm not actively working on a new editio—give me a break!—but I continue to taste Bordeaux whenever the opportunity presents itself, so as to keep my data base up to date. And I hope I return to the region next year.






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SOME GIRLS HAVE ALL THE LUCK

“I Went on a Honeymoon Holiday to Santorini—by Myself” by Olivia Petter, London Times (10/6/22).












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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to two excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas

John Curtas has been covering the Las Vegas food scene since 1995. He is the author of EATING LAS VEGAS - The 52 Essential Restaurants, and his website can be found at www.EatingLV.com. You can find him on Instagram: @johncurtas and Twitter: @eatinglasvegas. 




              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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