MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE "Hespere
and
the Golden Apple" by Galina Dargery (2016)
❖❖❖
IN THIS ISSUE OLD SAYBROOK GAINS A NEW CULINARY STAR By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER JALAO By John Mariani ANOTHER VERMEER CHAPTER FORTY-FOUR By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR FOURTH EDITION OF THE COMPLETE BORDEAUX By John Mariani ❖❖❖ IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT! THERE WILL BE NO EDITION OF MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER NEXT WEEK (NOV. 13) BECAUSE MARIANI WILL BE DINING AROUND IN ITALY FOR HIS READERS' EDIFICATION. ❖❖❖ On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed.
NOVEMBER 9, at 11AM EDT,I
will be interviewing Prof. Christina
Carlson on WHO, ME?
New Revelations About Geoffrey
Chaucer's Rape Allegation. Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖ OLD SAYBROOK GAINS A NEW CULINARY STAR By John Mariani
Old Saybrook, which
is principally one long Main Street, dates back
to 1624, with Dutch origins, then as Saybrook
Colony in 1635 it came under English rule. In
1701 the Collegiate School of Connecticut was
chartered there, before moving to New Haven a
decade later to become Yale University. So, the
town clearly has much historical interest for
anyone traveling up the New England coastline.
Open
for dinner Tues.-Sat.
NEW YORK CORNER
JALAO NYC
2420 Amsterdam Avenue
929-688-4684
As anyone (of the few, apparently) who
saw last year’s movie In the
Heights knows, the Washington Heights
neighborhood at the northern tip of Manhattan is
a vibrant section with the moniker of Little
Dominican Republic. Until now, restaurants
featuring the food of that Caribbean island have
been modest and few in number, but the dazzling,
brand new Jalao NYC ups the ante considerably,
for style, sophistication and just plain fun. Open nightly for
dinner. ❖❖❖
ANOTHER VERMEER To read previous
chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to the
archive
NOTE: Since there will be no issue of the Virtual Gourmet next week, I've provided readers with two combined chapters of Another Vermeer. CHAPTER FORTY-FOUR
Taipei Dadaocheng Dock Area
The SUV pulled away
from the Shui Building parking lot
and headed away from the main street, going
down back roads and making many turns that
took advantage of traffic lights about to turn
red so as to prevent any suspicious cars from
following.
The Chinese were silent throughout the
trip until they arrived in the Dadaocheng dock
area of the city, where Guo gave them
directions to a slip far from the main part of
the port, then used his mobile phone to call
someone.
© John Mariani, 2016 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
FOURTH EDITION OF THE COMPLETE BORDEAUX By John Mariani
A major
overhaul, delayed by Covid for two years, of The Complete
Bordeaux: The Wines, The Chateaux, The People by
Stephen Brook (Mitchell Beazley, $75) comes at a
time of upheaval in French vineyards, given
changes in global markets, climate change and
agro-tourism. I posed questions to Brooks about
this latest edition. This is the
4th edition. What is different now? Five years is a long time
in Bordeaux. There are numerous changes in
ownership, as well as changes in generation. The
celebrated consultants, such as Michel Rolland, are
still around, but being supplemented by a new crop
of younger experts who may be more adept at dealing
with issues such as climate change. There has been a
remarkable expansion in organic and biodynamic
farming, as proprietors are urged to take greater
account of environmental concerns. Sauternes, long
seen as a perfect way to lose money, is undergoing a
revolution, as new entrepreneurs buy estates and
transform them, creating hotels, and reducing the
production of sweet wines to reflect the limited
demand while expanding production of dry white
wines. So plenty to write about, not to mention a
succession of fine new vintages. As someone who wrote
five editions of The
Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink, I
doubt there will ever be another, because looking
up the entries within can just as easily, if not
as dependably, find a great deal of information
online. Is this the future or the fate of books
like yours? Yes, that's quite likely.
For some years I revised Hugh Johnson's
Wine Companion, essentially an encyclopedia of
wine, but new editions ceased as potential
purchasers realized they could find much of the same
information on websites. The Complete
Bordeaux is different, in that I voice
opinions too. The content is not solely factual.
Also I am 100% independent, whereas chateau websites
clearly have an agenda. Nonetheless, I doubt there
will be many more editions! You write that Covid
prevented you from visiting Bordeaux in 2021. How
did you handle that gap? I was fortunate, in having
good contacts with growers' associations in all
parts of Bordeaux, and similar contacts with
groupings such as the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois,
and with merchants and consultants. Without
exception, they responded to my requests for samples
of recent vintages, so I was able to taste hundreds
of wines here in London. There were also many Zoom
calls with producers and winemakers. You write that,
unlike the wineries of Napa Valley, Barossa Valley
and Burgundy, the Bordeaux vintners all seem
reluctant to have visitors and do not communicate
well with the public. And that it’s getting worse,
even among vintners you visited in the past. Why
is this? When I started visiting
Bordeaux in the mid-1980s, a phone call to a chateau
was usually sufficient to result in a visit and
tasting. That's because there were relatively few
visitors. Now, wine lovers descend on Bordeaux from
all over the world, and few chateaux have the
facilities to welcome hundreds of visitors each day.
Some properties (e.g., Lynch
Bages) have always welcomed visitors (mostly by
appointment) and properties in less prestigious
areas, such as Fronsac or Graves, are often pleased
to accept visitors for a visit and tasting. Bear in
mind that the weather is clement year round in Napa
or much of Australia, whereas in Bordeaux the
climate is miserable from November to March, making
it very costly to maintain staff and infrastructure
for visitors when very few are around. You write that "we
the privileged," meaning people in the trade and
authors like yourself, have access to staying at
the châteaux. How does this generosity affect your
response to what they are offering you to drink? I think the honest answer
is yes. Over many decades it’s inevitable that
certain proprietors become friends. Not just because
they invariably agree to a visit or request for
samples, but because they are valued as reliable
sources of information. Some owners court the press
by toadying to them, but others (such as Olivier
Bernard at Chevalier) see the value of two-way
communication. But I have never been leaned on to
provide a glowing review or tasting note, and I have
never hesitated to
express disappointment, even from estates I respect. Do you always taste
your wines blind? During the UGC primeur
tastings the press can choose to taste blind or not
blind. I always tasted blind. But more and more
chateaux insist on a personal visit to taste, so
tasting blind isn't an option. I also participate in
wine competitions, where the wines are tasted blind.
It's a tricky issue, especially during primeurs,
when you aren't tasting a finished wine. I recall
tasting a wine blind that turned out to be
Lynch-Bages. It showed poorly, so I retasted the
wine non-blind, and can defend doing so. Some
samples are defective, and even the finest palate
can show signs of fatigue resulting in poor judgment
from time to time. I have always refused to score
primeur wines (too young and unfinished, and you
don't know how the sample has been assembled), so
for me it's not a major issue. You write that many
Bordeaux vintners do a form of filtering their
wines but in answer to the question do they
filter, they say no. Please explain. Filtration has varying
degrees of severity. A sterile filtration can be
damaging to a wine, whereas a coarse filtration
(known, I think, in the New World as a "rocks and
frogs" filtration) primarily seeks to remove any
solids that remain after racking. But I'm not
dogmatic about this. If a winemaker is convinced a
wine needs filtration to be presentable, I'll accept
that judgment. Routine sterile filtration is more of
an issue with high-volume wines that need to be
consistent and acceptable to consumers who don't
understand (why should they?) that wine can throw a
natural deposit. You write that it is
more or less useless to speak about barrels used
and how they have been toasted because the nuances
can be so small. So you have chosen not to speak
about which barrels are used. Correct? It's beyond my expertise to
determine whether a wine has a certain character or
quality because the winemaker chose Taransaud rather
than Darnajou barrels. Moreover, many winemakers at
top chateaux hand-commssion and hand-select their
barrels. So Ch X’s Taransaud may well differ from Ch
Y's. Moreover, it’s almost impossible for a
journalist to know which barrels made it into the
final blend. Tasting the same wine from different
barrels can be a fascinating exercise for
professionals, but I think consumers are rightly
more interested in the final product. How does your book
on Bordeaux differ from those written by Robert
Parker, Michael Broadbent, Neil Martin and Jane
Hansen? You say that bottles can vary widely and
that some are even fakes provided to the wine
writers. Does this make
tasting notes, based on one bottle, useless? One major difference is
that I don't score wines in my book, though I do
provide tasting notes. I'm not interested in ranking
wines. Clearly, I need to assess their style and
quality, and I dare say some personal preferences
come through. It's not really for me to say whether
my books are more reliable or more informative than
those of my fellow writers! Bottle variation is only
a real problem with cask samples, which can easily
be manipulated to subdue tannins or make them more
appealing in their youth (when initial scores are
bestowed). And, of course, bottles of ancient wines
can and do vary. For wines within 10 years of the
vintage it's not really an issue. At a time of PC
correctness have you taken any heat for calling
Bordeaux “virile" wines? I don't think so. I do try
to avoid terms such as 'feminine,’ often used to
describe Margaux wines. But a young Medoc from a
good property can, I think, usefully be described as
virile or muscular. How has climate
change affected Bordeaux and what do you see in
the next 10 years of change? A big question! And it's
one I address in my introductory chapters. There are
wines from 2010 and 2018 with 15.5% alcohol. That
may be fine in Barossa or Paso Robles, but it robs
Bordeaux of its typicity. Most chateaux are well
aware of this, and are making changes to farming and
yields, so as to achieve full ripeness at lower
sugar, and thus alcohol, levels. But I’s not easy to
do. Conversely, climate change has benefitted areas
such as Castillon or Francs, where
grapes use to struggle to ripen. Today that is
rarely an issue, resulting in greatly improved
wines. The authorities are now permitting the
planting of alternative varieties, but it will be
many years before they become significant components
of major wines. This, too, is something I address in
my book. It seems that this
book would take up an enormous amount of your
time. Are you already working on a fifth edition? I have written more than
40 books on many topics not about wine. I'm not
actively working on a new editio—give me a
break!—but I continue to taste Bordeaux whenever the
opportunity presents itself, so as to keep my data
base up to date. And I hope I return to the region
next year. ❖❖❖
“I Went on a Honeymoon Holiday to
Santorini—by Myself” by Olivia Petter, London
Times (10/6/22). ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to two excellent travel
sites: Everett Potter's Travel Report: I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences."
Eating Las
Vegas John Curtas has
been covering the Las Vegas food scene since
1995. He is the author of EATING LAS
VEGAS - The 52 Essential Restaurants,
and his website can be found at www.EatingLV.com. You can find him
on Instagram: @johncurtas and Twitter:
@eatinglasvegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
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