MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  December 4, 2022                                                                                            NEWSLETTER



Founded in 1996 

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"Chestnuts" (2022) by John Mariani


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IN THIS ISSUE
JAMES BOND'S TASTES:
THE SPY WHO LOVED ME
By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
HINOKI GREENWICH
By John Mariani

ANOTHER VERMEER
CHAPTER 47
By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE WINES OF PUGLIA
By John Mariani



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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. December 7 at 11AM EST,I will be interviewing  biographer Mary Dearborn on Part 2 of "Ernest Hemingway: A Life."  Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.






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JAMES BOND'S TASTES:
THE SPY WHO LOVED ME

By John Mariani




 

        Ian Fleming’s 1962 James Bond novel, the ninth in the series, was his own least favorite, for its experimental first person narrative of a Canadian woman whom Bond—who shows up two-thirds of the way in—eventually saves from thugs was not his forte. It received poor reviews and Fleming refused to sell the story to the Bond filmmakers, allowing them only to buy the title.
        The book’s plot has Viv Michel reminiscing about failed love affairs and an abortion she’d had in Switzerland. She travels through the Adirondacks on her way back to her Canadian home, checking into a motel two mobsters intend to set on fire to collect insurance money, with her inside. Bond appears on the scene only because, while on his way to Toronto to pick up a defecting nuclear scientist, he gets a flat tire near the motel.
        Bond manages to kill the mobsters, named Sluggsy and Horror, then sleeps with Viv, leaving a goodbye note to her the next morning. Nothing in the short novel has anything to do with Bond’s tastes. There are only glancing references to Viv enjoying some pink Champagne, foie gras, caviar, spaghetti “bolognaise,” egg-and-bacon sandwiches and a bottle of Kentucky Gentleman bourbon.
         Neither does the book’s plot have anything to do with the movie, the tenth in the series, which came out in 1977, starring Roger Moore in his third turn as 007. Given the success of previous Bond films, The Spy Who Loved Me had a huge  $13.5 million budget and involved many international locations. It went on to gross $185.4 million worldwide.
         In the movie, Bond investigates the disappearance of two submarines, one British, the other Soviet. In Austria, he is almost killed by Soviet agents skiing down a mountain. He is next in Egypt to find who is selling a sub tracking system. There he meets the beautiful
Anya Amasova, KGB agent Triple X (Barbara Bach), and encounters the fearsome Jaws (Richard Kiel), a giant with steel teeth. 
       
Together 007 and Triple X travel to Sardinia to find a shipping magnate named Karl Stromberg (Kurt Jürgens), who had recently launched a gigantic supertanker, the
 Liparus, on which he is seen having a lavish meal of lobster, stone crabs, oysters, poached fish and Champagne, along with a bottle of Tabasco.
        Bond and Anya must escape Jaws, who is on a motorcycle, and another assassin, Naomi (Caroline Munro), in an attack helicopter.  They escape in a Lotus Esprit
that Q Branch has converted to drive underwater. 
       
Anya discovers that Bond had killed her lover, so she vows to kill Bond, as soon as their mission is complete. They board a submarine to track the
 Liparus, but are captured by the crew of the tanker, from which Stromberg plans to launch nuclear missiles from the captured British and Soviet submarines to obliterate Moscow and New York, which would trigger a global nuclear war.
        Bond manages to re-program the submarines into firing the nukes at each other, destroying the subs. He then rescues Anya, kills Stromburg and drops Jaws into a shark tank. Anya decides not to kill Bond, and the Royal Navy recovers a waterproof pod in which the two spies are in an intimate embrace.
            The film has the most exotic locales of any in the series, beginning with Bond’s skiing away from an overnight lover, who calls agents to kill him. The mountain was called “Berngarten,” but the ski scene (in which Bond seems to be falling to his death but is saved by a Union Jack parachute ) was actually filmed on the 3,000-foot
 Asgard Peak in Auyuittuq National Park on the east coast of Nunavut, Canada.
            In Egypt, Bond, dressed in Bedouin robes and looking like Lawrence of Arabia, enjoys a meal of fruit in a tent arrayed with beautiful women he may choose among. Later, at Cairo’s Mujaba Club, Anya sips rum on the rocks and orders Bond his famous martini “shaken not stirred.” (So much for his ever traveling incognito.) She also uses that description when Jaws gets crushed between a van and a wall but survives “shaken but not stirred.”
            Outside of town Bond attends a spectacular
 son et lumière filmed at the Giza Necropolis complex, about 15 miles southwest of the city. (Such shows are still presented in that location nightly for tourists.) After he meets Anya, they drive to Luxor, on the Nile about 450 miles south of Cairo, and find Jaws stalking them around the Temple of Karnak.
        In Sardinia, on the island’s jet set side of Costa Smeralda, Bond checks into the Hotel Cala di Volpe (above). The final scenes on the water were filmed off New Providence Island at
 Coral Harbor, where Thunderball and the opening scene of Casino Royale had scenes.
        At the movie’s end, cocooned in their watertight pod, 007 and Anya sip Dom Pérignon ’52 that Stromburg had stored there. Bond observes, “Any man who drinks Dom Pérignon ’52 can’t be all bad.”

 








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NEW YORK CORNER



HINOKI GREENWICH

363 Greenwich Avenue
Greenwich, Connecticut
203-900-0011


By John Mariani


 

 

        For a relatively small town—basically, a main street named Greenwich Avenue—Greenwich, Connecticut, has a very affluent population. So, all a restaurateur needs is to find a stylish niche to fill in order to attract those for whom caviar, foie gras, wagyu beef and Champagne are readily affordable.
            That was certainly the thinking behind Hinoki Greenwich, which was opened last May and was expanded in September by owners K Dong and chef Stephen Chen, who realized that there was a place in Greenwich for an expansive Asian restaurant that went beyond the sushi bars already dotted around southern Connecticut.  (They already
have three restaurant concepts together, a wholesale seafood distribution company, a few partnerships and plan to expand Hinoki to Darien next year.) 
   
    The style, they thought, would nod towards izakaya meals, in which many small tastes are offered. But there would also be a section for sushi and sashimi, an array of Chinese dim sum and several larger courses of a kind not usually available locally. Hinoki Greenwich compares with those vast, loud Asian nightclubs like Tao, Morimoto and Buddakan in Manhattan, but without the madness and party scene those places attract.
        Hinoki is set in three rooms, one a bar, another a dining room, and the third, when it’s up and running, an omakase dinner room for a chef’s choice menu. The name Hinoki refers to a wood used throughout that emits a lovely scent.
            What really distinguishes Hinoki is the quality and sourcing of ingredients. All food is dependent upon the consistent quality of product, which huge restaurants needing huge quantities cannot guarantee. And, when it comes to raw seafood, there is no margin for error, which is why most sushi restaurants’ raw seafood is so often bland. At Hinoki, the individual flavors of the various tuna, yellowtail, black cod, king salmon, fluke and other species are distinct, and those flavors are enhanced without being covered up with sauces and spices.
         Our party left choices from every part of the menu up to Manager Liam Zhang, who first brought a plate of lustrous baby yellowtail with yuzu and kosho chile, a little tomato and, surprisingly, parmesan cheese ($22). Toro tuna was topped with truffle oil, olive oil and slices of Australian black truffles ($28). Thin sliced salmon mimicked prosciutto set over Asian pear that looked like melon ($22). Toro came topped with caviar ($18). A hot appetizer of duck wrapped pancake ($19) was delicious, and a “taco” of wagyu beef wrapped in nori seaweed ($20) was a capital idea with both crunch and juiciness.
            There are eight dim sum choices. We had the very flavorful pork soup dumpling ($16 for four) that bursts in your mouth with a rich broth, although the noodle could have been thinner.
            All these preambles to the main courses were light enough to leave us hungry for what was to follow. Miso black cod, a meaty fish with a remarkable silkiness, was grilled after being marinated in miso and served with grilled endive ($45), one of the best renderings of this dish I’ve had. A tempura-fried branzino with a lychee sweet-sour sauce ($38) was pleasant enough, but I found the King crab truffle hot pot with wild mushrooms, cheese and truffles more of a hodgepodge of ingredients mixed together ($39).
            The large bar is a splendid design that takes its shimmer from the bottles of spirits arrayed, and there are some very rare items up there, especially among the Japanese whiskies. The wine list, however, is modest.
            On a laid-back Monday the attractive waitstaff played their part by spending much of their time at the bar on their cell phones. Also, depending on the music playing, you’ll hear either a pounding bass line or some pleasing sounds of jazz.
            Hinoki Greenwich is a refined and quite serious Asian restaurant focused on quality, so that you may well find many of the dishes on others’ menus, but the flavors have more spark to them at Hinok, while Chef Chen’s innovations make it all the more reason to go. 

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

 









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ANOTHER VERMEER






By John Mariani



To read previous chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to the archive
 

CHAPTER FORTY-SEVEN

 


 

            Katie and David thanked the Currens for all their help and hospitality, and Mrs. Curren said it had been their pleasure. “We don’t really get to see that many Americans here,” she said.  “More Brits than Yanks. Oh, and, David, your new suit was delivered this morning.”
            David wasn’t about to model the new dark gray suit, but he knew this was by far the best-fitting suit he’d ever put on. Nothing like the off-the-rack suits he bought at Men’s Warehouse on sale that took a beating while he was on the force. Since retiring, he’d only really worn a jacket when he was out to dinner with Katie, and he really was looking forward to showing himself off in his new threads at the auction the next day.
            That morning, after breakfast, David came out of his room wearing the suit, trying not to smile too much.
            “My God, David,” said Katie, who was dressed in a smart shirt-waist blue dress. “You look fabulous in that suit! Fits you like a glove.”
            David tried to shrug off the compliment, but he’d never felt better about getting one from a woman like Katie Cavuto.

           Hong Kong’s art galleries and auction houses were all located in the central part of the city. Christie’s was on Chater Road, Sotheby’s on Pacific Place and Crofthouse around the corner on Star Street. Despite its longevity as an auction house in Hong Kong, Crofthouse was fairly modest in size, its offices on the first floor, the galleries on the second.
             The brochure description of the Vermeer was very carefully worded and, given British reserve, not extravagant. It noted the probable date of the painting, its similarities to The Astronomer and The Geographer, and the possibility that it had been part of a triptych. It did not say how the painting got to China, or when, only that it was owned by the People’s Republic of China. Lastly, a statement of authenticity was made, based on the 150-page experts’ report.
            A daytime auction was held, as ever, for fairly inexpensive or lesser works, while the evening auction, to begin at 7 o’clock, was reserved for the best lots of the event, ending off with the sale of the Vermeer. 
           
Numbered bidding paddles had been handed out, V.I.P. seats assigned and the room started to fill up by 6:30. Cameras were not allowed, but there was an unusual number of journalist, from the art magazines and the regular Hong Kong, Chinese and international news organizations, who had come to see if this would indeed be the highest price ever paid for a painting. 
           
Katie and David had been there since three o’clock, anxious to get a quick education on how auctions were held, observing the ballet that goes on between auctioneer, his assistants and bidders in the audience. Clearly, there were bidders who did not use a paddle but, long known to the auction house, used personal signals—a finger on the left cheek, a pen in the breast pocket, legs crossed or uncrossed—that indicated they were, or were not, still in the bidding. In the daytime auctions phone bids were a rarity, but at night they became a major aspect of the bidding.
            Katie knew a few of the journalists in the room, but David knew no one, feeling like the odd man out, but he was enjoying being with Katie on a day when he had no investigating to do. After the auction, he hoped to take her out to dinner, then fly home the next day.
            The make-up of the evening audience was fairly well split between Asians and Westerners, with what seemed to be small coteries of acquaintances from the art world, all gossiping about the Vermeer and what it would sell for. The journalists, including Katie, were asking them questions, getting statements, hoping someone would say something provocative. Many of the Asians came in together, after having their last cigarettes outside.
            The auctioneer was a man who looked quite young for the job. Derrick Donaldson was standing off to his side, cupping his hand over a phone, with another two assistants doing the same. The auctioneer introduced himself, asked everyone to be seated, and, without further ado, said, “Lot 223, a Chinese porcelain figure from the late Ming Dynasty, a very beautiful piece from the collection of Mr. Edwin Taylor of Hong Kong. Shall we start the bidding at $15,000?”
            For lots expected to sell for under $100,000 the auctioneer’s first figure was intended to send a signal as to how high the increments would be, usually $5,000 to $10,000; if above $100,000, bidding might go up by $20,000 or more, if there was plenty of interest in the piece. If bidding was slow, or none at all, the auctioneer might make a “chandelier bid” of his own, pretending someone in the audience or on the phone had taken the last bid; if the ploy didn’t work, the auctioneer would snap, “Pass,” and move immediately to the next lot.
            As the evening wore on, with 36 lots to be sold, the artwork became finer and finer. Aside from the Vermeer, there were only two pieces of Western art—a Victorian night table and a small 18th century Italian landscape, both from Hong Kong sellers. Bids were all over the price range, with the best Chinese works doing quite well, others garnering low bids. But as of 8:30, the excitement over the upcoming Vermeer was palpable, people whispering, looking over at the box seats as at the opera, where bidders who did not wish to be known rustled the curtains drawn in front of them.
            “And now, ladies and gentlemen,” said the auctioneer, “our last lot of the evening, and one that I can see is causing a great deal of excitement in the art world.” Draperies parted behind the auctioneer and two assistants carried the painting out and placed it on an easel.            There were audible gasps from the audience, not only because they were seeing a long-lost masterpiece for the first time but because it looked so small—a mere twenty by eighteen inches, the same as The Astronomer and The Geographer—in a remarkably simple gilded frame.  On size alone, it didn’t look like a $100 million painting.
            The auctioneer made brief remarks about the painting without extravagant praise, and said, nonchalantly, “Shall we begin at $50 million?”
            One paddle was raised. The auctioneer went up by $2 million, got a bid, then $5 million, another bid. Things were going well, and all the bidding was coming from the floor, beginning with five paddles, then four, three, two by the time the bid was $75 million. 
           
“Do I hear $80 million?” The floor bids stopped, but immediately the auctioneer was being signaled by Derrick Donaldson that a caller had come into the action.
            “Eighty-five million?”
            Another nod, this time from the assistant on another phone.
            “Ninety million?” said the auctioneer.
            There was a pause.
           The auctioneer looked over at his colleagues. Nothing.
            “Shall we say eighty-seven?”
            A nod came.
            “Eighty-nine?”
            Yes, from Donaldson.
            “Ninety? Ninety million dollars?”
            Another pause, this one longer. It would be unseemly for the auctioneer to suggest eighty-nine-five, but he could clearly tell the other phone bidder needed to be coaxed.
            “We are at eighty-nine million for a unique painting of a kind that we may never see the likes of again. No one has bought an authenticated Jan Vermeer in more than a hundred years. Once this is gone, there may never be another chance. Will anyone go to ninety?”
            He gazed out over the audience, which had grown completely silent. There was no rustling of the box seat curtains.
         “We have a bid for eighty-nine million dollars. Going once. Going twice.”  He had the hammer raised. Then Donaldson waved his hand.
            “Ninety!” said the auctioneer triumphantly. “The bid is at ninety million dollars. Will anyone go to ninety-five?”
            Katie looked at David, wide-eyed.
            “Ninety-five,” said the auctioneer, slowly, sensing the momentum had run its course. “It’s now ninety million dollars . . . going once . . .”—he looked at Donaldson and his assistants, all subtly wagging their heads.
            “Last chance. Ninety million dollars . . . going twice . . .”
           Then he slammed the hammer down.
            “Sold for ninety-million dollars! Congratulations to the buyer, who has just paid the most money for any work of art in history.  And Crofthouse is honored to have been the auction house of record. Thank you, ladies and gentlemen, that ends tonight’s very exciting auction.”
            Katie said, “Wow, ten million shy of what everyone thought it would go for.  I wonder what happened.”
            “Don’t ask me,” said David. “You’d better schmooze with your colleagues and the other bidders here, see if you can find out.”
            Katie, along with other journalists present, had already surrounded the five bidders in the audience, who had gathered themselves into a discussion of what had just occurred. Katie identified herself and asked the bidders who they were or for whom they were bidding. 
       
Two said they were bidding for anonymous collectors. One was from the Getty Museum in Los Angeles, one from the Norton Simon Museum in Pasadena, and one from New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, whose floor bidder was the last to drop out, at $75 million. 
       
Each was asked if, given their museums’ resources, they thought they had a real chance of getting the painting. The people from the Simon and Met museums said they were not authorized to go beyond their final bids.  The man from the Getty said, “We might have gone higher, but you have to be able to judge where something might end up, and as an institution, we can’t get into a feeding frenzy. We felt that the tempo of the bidding indicated the painting would go much higher.”
            “Would you have paid $95 million?” asked Katie. The man just turned up his hands and said, “I really can’t comment on that.”
            Katie then went over to Derrick Donaldson, who was in conference with his auctioneer and several Chinese, who were there representing their country’s sale. Donaldson was speaking to them in perfect Mandarin, obviously trying to explain why the final bid was so much lower than everyone had expected. When they’d finished talking, the Chinese stalked away, still gesturing, and Katie moved towards Donaldson and asked if they could speak.
            “May I ask you a couple of questions?”
            “Sure,” said Donaldson, seeming a little shell-shocked. “But I can’t tell you who the buyer is. Both the callers wish to remain anonymous at this point.”
            “Okay, but why do you think the final price was so much lower than expected?”
            Donaldson sighed and said, “Quite simply, not enough bidders.  We’d anticipated that there were not going to be any museums able to bid $100 million, and they must have believed the phone bids would just keeping going up and up. The two individuals in the audience who were bidding I do know. One is a French collector named Branaire, the other Mexican, name of Santiago. I suppose it just got too rich even for their bank accounts.”
            “I take it Shui didn’t bid,” said Katie.
            “Never heard from him.”
            “What about Jan Dorenbosch, Nicholas Danielides, Ivan Stepanossky, Robert Lauden, or Harry Balaton?”
            “I really can’t say, because I don’t know the answer right now.  I can say we had some preliminary interest from Mr. Steve Wynn, but he never ended up bidding.”
            “And the guys in the box seats behind the curtain?”
            “Never made their move.”

 





©
John Mariani, 2016










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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


THE WINES OF PUGLIA
By John Mariani



Vineyards in Locorotondo, Puglia

 

 

        Like Puglia itself—the heel of Italy—its wine industry has gained both interest and respect just in the last five years. In the past, large numbers of cooperatives sold their wines in bulk, but a younger generation has winnowed down the best varietals and terroirs to produce excellent wines that now compete, usually at a more modest price, in the global market.  
       
Today Puglia produces 32 wines in the DOC appellation and four DOCGs, with new IGP wines coming out all the time.
 The manifest success of Puglian wines is clear in its bottling and export figures. While southern Italy exports only 6% of its production, 90% of Puglia’s bottled wine production is sold outside Italy. Plus, Puglia is now the second largest Italian producer of organic wines, after Sicily.
        Varietals like Negroamaro, Bombino Bianco, Gravina and Primitivo, once unfamiliar even within Italy, are now celebrated for their distinctiveness. Primitivo, once unfamiliar even within Italy, are now celebrated for their distinctiveness. Primitivo got a boost when it was found to be a forerunner of what in the U.S. is called Zinfandel.
        Agro-tourism has also been a boon to both the region and the industry. Murgia, with many Adriatic microclimates, has proven itself fertile ground for Primitivo, as well as the Nero di Troia grape, as the basis for Castel del Monte DOC wines like Rosso Canosa and Rosso di Barletta, while fragrant white varietals like Malvasia del Chianti, Greco and Bianco d’Alessano go into Gravina.
 
        The so-called “Itria Valley Triangle” that embraces the
 provinces of Bari, Brindisi and Taranto produces Martina and Locorotondo, made principally from white Verdeca and Bianco d’Alessano grapes. Outside the “white city” of Ostuni, two indigenous grape varieties, Ottavianello and Susumaniello, are now being made in artisanal style and achieving a unique renown of their own.
            Much of the excitement in Puglian vineyards is due to the appellation IGP (Indicazione Geographica Produzione), which allows producers to work with blends outside the DOC rules.  A leading innovator is Gaetano Marangelli (above) of Cantine Menhir Salento in the southeastern part of Salento, who is dedicated to inclusiveness of viniculture and agro-tourism. “Fifty years ago all the wineries also produced their own olive oil, cheese, even chickens and eggs,” he says. “I and some of my colleagues are trying to restore that.”   
       
To such end his property is home to a 40-hectare organic farm named “Anna” that supplies many of the provisions to the on-premises Origano Osteria & Store, which also has a small restaurant, and he is building a 30-room hotel.  His flagship wine, with only 15,000 bottles produced annually, is the Pietra Primitivo Susumaniello, which I would rank with many of the finest red wines in Italy. If there were such a class as “Super Puglians,” this would be one of them.
            While recently in Puglia I also visited the Vallone estate, dating to the second half of the 19th century, when Commendatore Vincenzo De Marco began the production and marketing of bulk wines to France and Tuscany.  The marriage of Donato Vallone to Marco’s daughter Maria brought in the Flaminio Estate of Brindisi to the family, and later, at the end of the ‘60s, the Castel  Serranova estate was added, now totaling 500 hectares.
            Over a buffet lunch at Vallone’s estate (below), my wife and  I sampled wines obviously made by oenologist Severino Garofano according to all modern technologies. Balanced and distinctive as local varieties, they went splendidly with Puglian cheeses, meats and pastas presented.
            I was very impressed by the Graticciata Rosso IGP Salento, using  dried Negroamaro grapes from the 'Caragnuli' Cru, an 80-year-old Apulian sapling vineyard in San Pancrazio Salento.  After six years of experimenting, the wine has emerged as a voluptuous and strikingly big wine at 14.5% alcohol.
        Castel Serranova is a Cru from a vineyard called Vigna Castello, the origin of the most classic of the Salento blends, namely Negroamaro and Susumaniello.  Vallone makes both a red and a lovely rosé from the Susumaniello, using the traditional static draining technique to give complexity. Flaminia, from an estate near Ostuni, is another line of the Vallone wines using the grape Ottavianello, with a wonderful perfume, similar to France’s Cinsault.
            Vallone is dedicated to the balance of nature within the vineyards, including the reduction of unwanted invasive insects. “We used a spray that confuses the males sexually, so they don’t mate,” Francesco Vallone told me, “and out of fear our workers put on masks and gloves so the same would not happen to them.”
            These innovations caused Vallone to diverge from the strict DOC regulations. “We want to be IGP, because we want to do what we want. We don’t want to be judged under DOC bureaucratic standards.”
            Of particular note is a new emphasis on rosé (rosato) wines in Puglia. Given the wide variety of red grapes in the region, innovative winemakers have picked up on the current fashion for rosé as a year-round wine, not one just for summer months. Since Puglia’s rosés differ so widely, from pale pink to deep rose, there are different levels of complexity and intensity, so that they go especially well with the bounty of seafood that is the mainstay of the  region’s gastronomy.
        Rosés  made from Nero di Troia are particularly rich—they are called the ”black rosés of Troy.” As with many “lost” varietals, Bombino Nero was rediscovered in Puglia and is one of the principal grapes used for rosés, acquiring a prestigious DOCG appellation for Bombino Nero Rosato Castel del Monte.
            Tuccanese is also a re-discovered grape, thought to be a clone of the hearty Sangiovese.  Aleatico, of Greek origins, is considered a semi-aromatic grape variety, derived from Moscato, and having a wonderful perfume. It is grown for DOC wine in the areas of Bari, Brindisi, Taranto, Lecce and Foggia. The Primitivo, whose resurrection as a   versatile grape has led to innovations, produces a bold, deeply colored rosé with plenty of spice. Ottavianello has also had a resurgence in the current century, especially around Brindisi, often made in a light, pale style with good aromatics. 

        As recently as 2015 the
 authoritative Oxford Companion to Wine warned that, “what Puglia urgently needs is to ensure the survival of its centenarian bush vines and most interesting indigenous varieties, and, ideally, a viticultural in winemaking institute . . . to shape its future.” That future has arrived far more quickly than anyone could have imagined.

 


 




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FORTUNATELY NO ONE WAS
INJURED IN THE INCIDENT


“Yesterday, we had a customer come in and order takeout, a barbecue plate and a couple sides,” said Ashley Holt, whose mother, Debbie Holt, owns Clyde Cooper’s Barbecue in Raleigh and interacted with the customer. “She left and came back and said her barbecue was undercooked because it had a lot of pink in it. We explained that’s because it’s smoked. When pork is smoked, it turns pink.” Holt said a few minutes later a Raleigh Police officer came to the restaurant, talked to the customer outside and then entered Clyde Cooper’s, asking about the pork.














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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             






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FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to two excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences." 






Eating Las Vegas

John Curtas has been covering the Las Vegas food scene since 1995. He is the author of EATING LAS VEGAS - The 52 Essential Restaurants, and his website can be found at www.EatingLV.com. You can find him on Instagram: @johncurtas and Twitter: @eatinglasvegas. 




              



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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