ROAD RUNNER AND WILE E. COYOTE ❖❖❖ THIS WEEK WHY RECOMMENDING RESTAURANTS TO FRIENDS IS A FUTILE AND FRUSTRATING GESTURE By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER FORSYTHIA By John Mariani GOING AFTER HARRY LIME CHAPTER NINE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER ROYAL OAKS DISTILLERY, IRELAND By John Mariani ❖❖❖
On my WVOX Radio Show "Almost
Golden," on Wed. March 1 at 11AM
EST, I
shall be interviewing Dr. F. Perry Wilson,
author of HOW MEDICINE WORKS AND
WHEN IT DOESN'T. Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖
WHY RECOMMENDING
RESTAURANTS "Village Party" by Alice Neely (1932)
As
someone who has made a career out of writing
about restaurants, I might strike you as
someone who welcomes people’s trusting me to
recommend a restaurant, either here or abroad.
Unlike doctors, lawyers and stock brokers who
spurn such requests by saying, “Call my
office,” I always respond, but first ask some
specific questions: What kind of restaurant?
Neighborhood? New? Trendy? Classic? Budget? NEW
YORK CORNER
FORSYTHIA 9 Stanton Street 646-590-0609 By John Mariani Hope springs eternal in the
restaurant business, which is perhaps why
Jacob Siwak has named his darling little
storefront restaurant on the Lower East Side
after the first flower to bloom in the spring,
which, he says, “represents
a symbol of hope, anticipation, and renewal,
surrounded by an abundance of warmth; just
as one should feel while dining at the
restaurant.” More specifically, a Roman
restaurant. Open
Tues.-Sat. for dinner. ❖❖❖ GOING AFTER HARRY LIME By John Mariani CHAPTER NINE
“‘Do you
believe in ghosts?’ Martins said to me.”—Major
Callaway, The
Third Man.
*
*
*
*
Katie and David got a cheap flight on
American Airlines to London’s Heathrow Airport and
booked rooms in a small hotel in Knightsbridge on
Brompton Road named the Beaufort (right),
just a block from the Sloane Street Underground
station with a curry house next door.
The British
National Archives were in Kew Gardens, just nine
stops from Sloane Square on the Underground.
Having never been to London, David had boned up on
how to use the Tube, poring over the famous
Mondrian-like map of route lines, each its own
color, a small miracle of concision and graphic
impact. He ran his finger along the map on the
Green District line, a branch of which went south
to Kew Gardens.
© John Mariani, 2016 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER
ROYAL OAK DISTILLERY ENTERS Irish
Whiskey sales are soaring, with more than 6
million cases sold in the U.S. last year. The
Irish Whiskey Association has revealed the record
figure using CSO Eurostat data and the popularity
of Irish Whiskey is continuing to increase around
the world, as exports in 2022 passed €1 billion
for the first time. Is the market in
danger of being tapped out? Apparently not. I
asked Woody Kane (below, right), Global
Brand Ambassador for The Busker at Royal Oak, and
Caroline Martin, the distillery’s master blender (below,
left), about why they got into a crowded
market. How is the Royal Oak
Distillery unique? Why is that so critical for the
brand? Kane : The
Royal Oak Distillery is producing hand-crafted Irish
whiskey, proudly located on an 18th century estate
in Ireland’s Ancient East region. The Royal Oak
Distillery is the home of The Busker Irish whiskey,
where we distill all three styles of Irish whiskey:
Single Grain, Single Malt and Single Pot Still, all
under one roof, balancing tradition with innovative
and modern techniques. We source the highest quality
ingredients, from the barely to the water, and work
with highly trained distillers who are passionate
about what they do and watch carefully over the
whole process of production. We select the barrels
to suit the needs of each whiskey, and, when ready,
our blender meticulously works to ensure that
consumers get the highest quality products. When and why did you
get into the business? Kane: I
entered the professional spirits world in 1999, when
I began assisting the research and development team
at The Hot Irishman with their Irish Coffee and
Irish Cream. In 2006, I took on a role by setting up
trade show experiences in various markets and
training bar staff around Ireland. Around 2014, I
joined the Royal Oak Distillery as its ambassador
with the goal of creating a world class distillery
in County Carlow. Kane: As
noted, we make all styles of Irish Whiskey: Single
Malt, Single Pot Still, Single Grain, and a blend of
all three single expressions. Our Single Malt
whiskey is matured in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks
to bring you great complexity. We also have our
Single Pot Still expression, which is very
distinctive to Ireland, and was created to take
consumers on a journey of rich and intense flavors.
For our Single Grain bottle, the secret is choosing
the highest quality spirits and combining them with
our hand-selected bourbon and marsala casks. And
finally, we have our extraordinary blend, made with
Single Grain, and a very high percentage of Single
Malt and Single Pot Still with an extraordinary
smoothness given by the three-cask influence
(Bourbon, Marsala, and Sherry). When
Scotch producers focused in on single malts and
everything from cask to vintage labels, it created
a swell for a very upscale market but decreased
interest in traditional blends and premium
Scotches. Has this happened with entry level Irish
whiskies? Martin: I’d
like to challenge that concept! Yes, I agree that
single malt Scotch does get a lot of visibility, but
in reality, blended Scotch whiskies deliver 90% of
demand volumes and single malt 10%. The recent
upsurge in Irish whiskey production means that the
market is still young, compared to Scotch. I think
it’s important that some of these whiskeys must be
accessible to all consumers and across all formats,
blended and singles, especially to new whiskey
drinkers. Consumers are still eager to find out
everything about Irish whiskeys, including
traditional blends and premium offerings. There’s
room in the market for all good quality whisk(e)y –
Scotch, Irish, and beyond. People have different
taste preferences; the fun is about seeking out and
finding your favorites. Is the alcohol by
volume an important factor when it comes to the
quality of the whiskey? Martin: In my
experience, it’s more complex than being just about
the bottled alcoholic strength of the whiskey that
conveys quality. The quality of a whiskey is all
about the flavors for me, how they are perceived, do
they appeal to the consumer? It’s also about the
serving: do the consumers prefer their whiskey
served neat, over ice, or in a cocktail? In my
experience, the higher the alcoholic strength the
more “closed in” the aroma and taste profile
initially tends to be. In the main, “opening up” the
whiskey has the tendency to reveal amazing aromas
and flavors. It’s important to acknowledge that all
consumers are different and to some, a higher
alcoholic strength—as in cask strength—will always
be an important quality factor, but it should not be
the only one. What makes one
whiskey cost so much more than another, as far as
the distilling is done? Some casks don’t cost any
more than another cask, do they? Martin: Every
part of the whiskey supply chain brings its
associated cost with it. That includes different
cask types. Some casks are very expensive because
they can be very rare and/or very sought after.
Whiskeys, too, can range significantly in cost
because they may be from closed distilleries, no
longer producing newly made spirit. So the finite
volume available in the cask can be highly sought
after and command high prices. The length of time
whiskey is in a cask also has an impact on the cost
of bottled whiskey. The longer the maturation time,
generally the higher the cost. Finishing a whiskey
(in a different cask type) brings with it an added
cost. Over and above this, there will be annual
fluctuations in the price of raw materials, e.g.
malted barley, because of good/bad harvests. All of
this drives differences in pricing—and branding will
also have an impact on the price to markets. Do your whiskies
make for good cocktails? Kane: Yes, sure. We always
suggest drinking our Whiskies neat to taste the
quality of the liquid, but we collaborated with many
important bartenders that created outstanding
cocktails with The Busker. Jeffrey
Morgenthaler, who is the author of The Bar Book:
Elements of Cocktail Technique, and
now
co-owner of Pacific Standard lobby bar in Portland,
created for a special event the Slan Leat cocktail
with
Busker Single Grain, Lillet Blanc and Cynar. Simone
Caporale from Sips Drinkery House in Barcelona
created his wild vision of a Whiskey Sour. Hiroyasu
Kayama from BenFiddich Bar (Tokyo) has created
special cocktails with our Blend. Where
are most of your sales? Kane: The
Busker's best market is the U.S. and is
growing a lot in Japan and Holland. Is there a stratum
of drinkers you aim at most—GenX, Millennials,
etc.? Kane:
Millennials are our main target. How do you work
together with a distillery in the production of a
whiskey before being put in cask? Martin: As the
Master Blender at Royal Oak Distillery it’s part of
my role and that of the Lead Blender to work with
the distilling team in creating new-make spirits
that will support our current whiskey portfolio: The
Busker Triple Cask Triple Smooth, and the 3 Busker
single bottlings—Single Grain, Single Malt &
Single Pot whiskeys. It's important the blending
team sign off on the quality of each new-make
spirit, including the flavor styles required.
Thereafter it’s about ensuring the consistency of
the three newly made spirits before they are filled
to cask. Sensory and chemical analysis is performed
on a daily basis. Significant experience in the
science and technology of whiskey making is vitally
important in ensuring the distillery produces a
spirit that is fit for purpose. What is a “new-make
spirit”? Kane: A new-make spirit is a
high-proof alcohol that comes straight off the still
during spirit production before being transferred to
the barrel for aging so it can legally be called
whiskey. Moonshine and Malt Spirit are two other
names for a new-make spirit. While the new-make
flavor has an effect on the whiskey, the wood in
which it is aged contributes significantly to its
flavor and color.
❖❖❖
❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html © copyright John Mariani 2023 |