MARIANI’S
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Founded in 1996
ARCHIVE UKRAINIAN EASTER EGGS ❖❖❖ THIS WEEK PALAZZO DUCALE VENTURI By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER LUTHUN By John Mariani GOING AFTER HARRY LIME CHAPTER SIXTEEN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR ARE WINE TASTINGS COUNTER TO COMMON SENSE? By John Mariani ❖❖❖
On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. April
19 at 11AM EDT,I will be
interviewing Tony Morante,
Baseball Historian about YANKEE
STADIUM. Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖
PALAZZO DUCALE VENTURI
Minervino di Lecce +39-0836-818717 By John Mariani
Counting the angels on the head of
a pin would be child’s play compared to
estimating all of the antique palazzos
throughout Italy. Even the poorest district
seems once to have a rich man on the
hillside who was able to cobble together the
resources (and taxes) to create a fairly
safe and secure stone mansion, while the
richest brandished their wealth and power in
astonishments like the Villa d’Este in
Tivoli and the Palazzo Reale in Naples.
Far
from the big cities, many
palazzos were often summer residences that
became the focal point for the town’s
identity. Centuries of being taken over by
invaders, disastrous economic downturns and
social upheavals—not least two World Wars in
the last century—forced the abandonment of
many that thereupon went to wrack and ruin.
One of these is the Palazzo Ducale Venturi in
the small Puglian town of Minervino di Lecce.
Though isolated, the town is only 25 miles
from Lecce and 15 minutes from Otranto.
There’s little to see in the town
beyond the various churches (some shuttered),
and the façade of the Palazzo, built in 1500
as a Templar stronghold, is not
promising, looking somewhat like the Alamo
after the Mexican Army stormed it. But once
through a creaking, old green wooden door, an
entirely different world of Italian luxury
expands from a foyer to a grand living room to
a garden and pool and a modern spa called the
Wellness Area.
I doubt the Duke Venturi lived in
anything close to the comfort guests can now
enjoy, with 20 rooms and suites, some of which
have ancient murals on vaulted ceilings. The
local limestone was restored to a pale golden
glow, and the fireplaces re-lighted, including
a wood-fired pizza oven and a cozy whiskey bar
where you may take a course in spirits,
followed by dinner.
There is a bittersweet
legend that involves the Palazzo, which once
had a secret underground passageway to the
nearby Monastery where the Duke would liaison
with the Abbess. But, alas, after
a few years, he tired of her and took up with
a young novice nun whom the Abbess, in a fit
of jealous rage, had murdered and buried in an
underground vault,
putting a curse on the duke’s bedroom—Hic
amor mori: “Here love died”—which was
fortunately lifted by Saint Eligio later in
the 16th century. The once
walled-up room is, romantically, again
available to stay in.
When my wife and I stayed at the
Palazzo last autumn, we were struck by the
cool quiet of the hotel, which extends to the
Wellness Area with its serene spa, the
beautiful garden with its entwined arbors and
the remarkably large, underlighted pool area.
It is all as enchanting at night as it is
during the day, and moonlight works its
wonderful ministry on the walls and water.
Rooms are capacious, with arched
limestone ceilings and painted walls, the
furniture is tones of gray and taupe.
Bathrooms are large and very modern, the WiFi
connection is exemplary (though I found that
T-Mobile has no coverage in the region, a lack
easily fixed by buying a SIM card for a few
bucks). The
furnishings of the public rooms, which are
painted off-white and reflect
a great deal of light from floor-to-ceiling
windows, are judiciously set with
first-quality antiques rather than crammed
with artwork of questionable provenance. A
motif of soothing, muted green is used
throughout on the woodwork.
The intimate dining room with ceiling
mural, appended with outdoor tables that allow
you dine in the garden or by the pool, is
where we had our extensive breakfasts
(included in the room price), which ranged
from breads and pastries to pancakes and
cheeses, fruits and juices all served at a
long, well-set table
with local china. You can also learn to make
pizza here, and Chef Antonio Russo holds
cooking classes, including one for pasta that
would be incorporated
into
our meals.
At one of our dinners, sitting at a
communal table with other guests, we began
with little strips of breaded ombrina
fish.
The pasta course was pacchero
macaroni with a rich seafood ragů atop
pureed yellow tomato scented with marjoram and dressed
with red lumpfish roe. Then came stuffed
tender squid on a sauce of red cabbage, and
for dessert local pastries, served
with wines from a modestly priced wine list
rich in Puglian bottlings: Piccole Bolle
Bianco Negroamaro from Duca Carlo Guarini and
Fiano Salento from Cantina Schola Sarmenti.
Owing to its
proximity to towns, cities, seashore and
historic sites, the Palazzo also has the
virtue of being secluded, making it as much a
romantic getaway as it is an example of modern
Italian hospitality. ❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
LUTHUN
432
East 13th Street
646-454-9484
By
the same token, I have very much enjoyed
somewhat more abbreviated (in both number of
courses and time spent) at admirable
multi-course restaurants like Jung Sik ($155),
Wicked Jane ($95), Frevo ($198) and, most
recently, Luthun ($150) on Manhattan’s Lower
East Side. In each of these, the dedication of
the chef within a small kitchen is more clearly
to delight rather than dazzle the guests, who
are fewer in number than at those others.
The combined experience of Luthun’s
owners, Nahid Ahmed and Arjuna Bull, provides
enormous ballast to their cuisine, which is
eclectic but never gimmicky. Ahmed, whose
bloodlines run through South Africa, India and
Bangladesh, was born in London, and after
training at Lausanne Culinary Institute in
Switzerland he headed West, working at New
York’s Lespinasse, The French Laundry in Napa
Valley, El Bulli in
Spain, The Fat Duck outside London and Restaurant
Philippe Rochat in Lausanne. In New York he was
executive chef at Respite.
Bull, from Cornwall, England, grew up in
Miami, where he worked at The Fontainebleau
Hilton before moving to New York to work at Café
Gray, Pearl and Ash, Brasserie 8˝, Capitale and
Tribeca Grand Hotel, as well as serving as
executive chef at gastropubs Jones Wood Foundry
and The Shakespeare.
Sommelier Jahdea Gildin has compiled a very varied wine list, and with this kind of food, where matching flavors and wine is impossible before you taste a dish, it’s best to allow him to choose the beverages, which may range from a vermouth to sake to beer to wine. The premises are fairly stark, but good lighting, a counter directly in front of the kitchen, unobtrusive music and exceptionally cordial servers make Luthun a very comfortable place to dine and interact with the full staff and perhaps with the people seated next to you. Each dish is described at a reasonable length—although the word “awesome” is used way too much—and Ahmed and Bull are right there ready to chat, having gotten the tempo of the meal down pat. No one in the kitchen seems rushed. No one gets yelled at.
The
tasting menu changes frequently, so that what I
describe here may not be in evidence when you
go. The menu is global, and though Ahmed says he
hasn’t been to India in ages, the inflections of
that country’s spices show up subtly in several
dishes. Indeed, subtlety is the rule at Luthun,
where seasonings are added to complement the
natural flavors of the principal ingredients,
whichvare all carefully sourced.
Our ten-course meal began with a fushka (above)—Bangladesh street food—little pastry cups of sugar snap peas with pine nuts and calamansi lemon. “Halal Guys” samosas take their name from a New York chain of halal food carts from Ahmed’s childhood, served with tangy-sweet pineapple chutney. A plump caramelized mussel was dressed with passion fruit and a pinch of wasabi, while a pretty scallop was perched on salted onion blossom and mandarin kosho, a chile and Mandarin mixture. Lovely, translucent, raw, lightly brined fluke took on flavors from fermented cashew, amloki, Indian gooseberry, and shiso. Mild uni was made into a custard with trout roe and farro to add texture (right). All these dishes were decorated via tweezers used to apply tiny edible greens or flowers. The simplest
dish was beef tartare dashed with whiskey
vinegar placed
on an egg yolk cooked with seaweed and bonito,
topped with Chinese caviar and grated cured egg.
This was followed by
lightly smoked squid in an oxtail consommé
tinged with XO black truffle vinegar. The Indian
bread called roti had
a sweetness to it with a yuzu
and pistachio salsa. In fact, there is a touch
of sweetness in many of the dishes, something
that should be done sparingly lest it become
cloying.
A foie gras emulsion with Thai nuoc cham fish sauce with cured egg yolk and rice cake accompanied prawns, and the last savory course was a rare, very juicy Colorado lamb chop served two ways: a rare chop and braised shoulder with the Turkish chile pepper urfa biber and elderberry glaze and a mix of greens, vegetables and flower (right). Dessert was a pleasantly traditional chocolate mousse with a Champagne gelée Rose. Our meal had a fine cadence to it so, with each dish small in size—bite-sized—there’s no long wait for the next one. We spent something close to two-and-a-half hours at the counter, and, because of comfortable tall chairs and the small number of guests to be served, we never felt things dragged. Also, the amounts of beverages served were judicious, given that so many courses needed to be matched. Luthun is a special place and an antidote to those brash, bombastic, uncomfortable places where you may exit exhausted. Perhaps Luthun’s real distinction is that everyone manifests a civilized side of downtown dining, while others go for razzle dazzle rather than refinement. Having too often slogged through long meals delivered with the solemnity of a tithe collector, I enjoyed every minute of my time at Luthun.
Open
for dinner Wed.-Sat, with seatings at 5:30 and
8:30.
❖❖❖
GOING AFTER HARRY LIME By John Mariani CHAPTER SIXTEEN
Holly Martins: “You used to
believe in God.” Harry Lime: “Oh, I still do
believe in God, old man. I believe in
God and Mercy and all that. But the dead
are happier dead. They don't miss much
here, poor devils.” — The Third Man.
Katie and David looked at each
other in amazement. © John Mariani, 2016 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
ARE WINE TASTINGS COUNTER TO COMMON SENSE? By John Mariani There are two different
forms of wine tastings: One is drinking individual
glasses of wines with a long tasting menu in a
restaurant; the other is enduring a tasting—blind or
not—of six or a dozen or a score or fifty wines in
an antiseptic setting without any food whatsoever.
Count me out of both.
❖❖❖ FINNEGAN'S
WAKE IS NOT A GOOD MODEL FOR A COLOMBIAN
RESTAURANT REVIEW "Okay, hold on to your hats, this is a
posh one. I’m going to be sitting in semi-darkness at
a bum-smooth wooden bar in Mayfair with a
glossy-haired chick, necking glasses of saké in front
of a 10ft fire of juniper wood, white ubame and birch
(or possibly oak, cherry, beech, apple or walnut,
depending what’s in stock) harvested from protected UK
wood farms (yup, wood farms), on which will be grilled
or roasted or smoked, for my delectation, little
slices of hand-dived this and line-caught that, huge
tranches of wild the other and endless heaps of
heritage how’s-yer-father, by a young Colombian chef
dressed all in black, whose life story will be rolled
out along the way, as it informs the evolution of each dish, and
settling a bill for just the right side of two hundred
quid, if you leave off the saké."—Giles Coren, "Humo,"
London Times (2/23/23). ❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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