MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
❖❖❖
THIS WEEK WHEN IN ROME OR ANYWHERE ELSE, EAT AS THE LOCALS DO By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER 15 EAST @ TOCQUEVILLE By John Mariani GOING AFTER HARRY LIME CHAPTER EIGHTEEN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR FAMILY MATTERS By John Mariani ❖❖❖
On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. May
3, at 11AM EDT,I will be showcasing
the great British
female singers, from Dusty Springfield to
Joss Stone. Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖
WHEN IN
ROME OR ANYWHERE ELSE,
EAT AS THE LOCALS DO By John Mariani
Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn in "Roman
Holiday"
(1953)
The place looked like a thousand other pizzerias, and the smell of tomato and melting cheese was in the air. I sat down at one of the Formica tables, ordered an individual pizza. Big mistake! For while there might well be some decent pizzerias in France, or Rennes, this was not one of them. One bite and I realized, not for the first time, that eating one country’s food in another country can be risky. I left the other slices on the tray. The lesson learned was that eating the food of a country where you have only a limited amount of time, that is, on vacation or business, is always the smartest move, not least because the cooks of a particular region—it could be Provence, Tuscany, Sichuan or Goa—have had centuries during which they learned from each other to create culinary traditions that are far more likely than ordering pizza in Rennes. Of course, internationalism has shrunken the world’s gastronomy so that you can get Cantonese soup dumplings in Stockholm just as you can get enchiladas in Dublin. And some may be very good facsimiles (with the exception of bagels, which never rise to the level of the best, though dwindling, bagels in New York). The point is, if the best food in a country or city is likely to be indigenous to that city, why, unless you live there for a year, would you want to eat other kinds of foods from across the globe? It is particularly perplexing why travel articles in magazines, newspaper and on-line concoct lists of the “best” or the “essential” restaurants in a city that include half a dozen or more “foreign” eateries in a list of ten. I can’t imagine spending five days in, say, Prague and be persuaded to go for sushi, or a week in Oslo and hankering for tapas. To be sure, there are very big cities with large ethnic populations, like New York, Berlin, Tokyo and London, where some remarkably good restaurants of every kind exist. (London in particular has terrific Indian restaurants, like Veeraswamey [above] and Paris some fine North African spots, like Chez Omar .) But it makes little sense for an American to go to London to eat at the Hard Rock Café, or to Bangkok for a wagyu burger. Italians are notorious as travelers for their insistence that there are no good Italian restaurants elsewhere, yet within a day in a foreign city they are dying for a plate of spaghetti alla marinara and are almost always disappointed. I shall leave it to those few well-heeled gastronomes who book tables months in advance at places like Noma in Copenhagen or Eleven Madison Park in New York to spend $1,000 per person over four hours to eat food that bears no resemblance to what normal people eat. In a recent listicle in Eater.com of the 18 “Essential Restaurants in Bologna, Italy,” a place named Ahimè is mannedby a team of young chefs who produce “fermentation-forward, casually creative dining in a city known for heavy traditional fare, breathing life into Bologna’s nonexistent modernist dining scene.” I haven’t noticed that Bologna’s food is suffocating from a lack of antic modernist food. But with dishes like cauliflower with white chocolate, “squash ravioli accented by apricot vinegar, turnips with lardo, gnocchi in dashi and parsley oil, and roasted brassicas with miso and various fruit-ferment ... and gummy bear-inspired spaghetti with wild licorice or chitarra tossed in duck liver and lemon,” I can imagine why “the restaurant is generally underappreciated.” If one can enjoy the most sumptuous tortellini cuddled in a Parmigiano sauce or lasagne verde (left) in the city that invented it, why would anyone want to eat the weird food at Ahimè? (Which, no surprise, has one Michelin star.) One can be a so-called adventurous eater in any city, without drinking cobra’s blood, à la Anthony Bourdain in Bangkok, merely by sampling what the locals do eat every day. Not everything may be to your liking, but at least it will give you a better appreciation for what goes into the local culture, as well as into the people.
❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER 15
EAST @ TOCQUEVILLE
By John Mariani No chef-restaurateur knows better about the ups and downs of the business than Marco Moreira, who suffered through the Covid epidemic and a fire set by an arsonist in 2021. What’s a guy to do? Rise like a phoenix, rebuilding and re-naming his restaurant, now 15 EAST@Tocqueville, with a bold new redesign meant to resemble a Parisian townhouse. The building already had a fine 1906 Beaux Arts entrance, which now opens onto a small cocktail bar, then into a spacious 66-seat dining room, once in colors of lemon and gold, now done in shades of aubergine and chocolate accented by rose accents. A lovely fireplace warms the room, tall mirrors seem to double the space, table lamps and chandeliers throw a glowing light on fine napery; an art deco carpet and Venetian plastered ceilings complete the look, which puts me in mind of Restaurant Guy Savoy in Paris, though far less formal. Moreira (left), born in São Paulo, trained as a sushi chef, and after stints in New York at Regine’s, The Mark, Bouley and Quilted Giraffe, opened a sushi bar at Dean & DeLuca. After opening the original Tocqueville in 2000 with his wife, Jo-Ann Makovitsky, he was behind the stove, but in recent years has taken over more as an overseer. The executive chef at the new restaurant is Paris-born Julien Wargnies (above), who worked at Le Cygnein in that city, L’Orangerie in Los Angeles and Le Cirque in New York before joining Tocqueville seven years ago. He offers three tasting menus: three, five and seven courses ($125/$175/$225)—and a wine pairing option with the latter two. (At these prices there shouldn’t be so many supplements on the menus.) There is also an Omakase Room offering a 20-course sushi and sashimi experience, with seven seats at the counter and eight at tables. You may also opt for sushi items from the dining room menu (with tastings at $95 and $155). The wine list is very extensive, built up over two decades, and very expensive. Given Moreira’s heritage, experience and wide travel, his menus reflect where he’s been and what he’s learned over thirty years, though he keeps some signature items on his menu—like the sea urchin and angel’s hair pasta alla carbonara, a marvelous dish that is rich and flavorful; grilled Mediterranean octopus with a chickpea emulsion, trout tartare and lobster "Duo" cassoule (right); and cured and lightly smoked duck breast with a pithivier. We were a party of four, so we ordered as many different dishes as possible under the three-course menu option, to which were added three amuses—a foie gras donut that was an immediate alert as to how good the meal would be; beet and goat’s cheese cannelloni; and a latke with crème fraîche and sevruga caviar. We also gobbled up some wonderful Brazilian cassava and parmesan bread with our cocktails. An assortment of sushi followed containing bluefin tuna and salmon. The white asparagus season has begun, and the plump spears were teamed with a poached egg and dotted with golden osietra caviar ($25 supplement). Though the portion of fresh duck foie gras was small, it was served in a delectable chawanmushi golden egg custard. There was also a gorgeous spring pea soup with the surprise of a Comte cheese souffle. Among the entrees, the most applause was for carnaroli risotto with wild mushrooms and suffused with rosemary and well-aged Parmigiano. The highly regarded duck breast came rare, with mandarin orange, a lovely endive marmalade and the bird’s natural juices to make an ideal coalescence of sweet, bitter, salty and meaty flavors (left). It was one of the finest duck dishes I’ve ever had. Black sea bass was impeccably cooked and fleshy, served simply with sautéed baby spinach and a citrusy caper-flecked classic grenobloise. Poached Maine lobster came with forbidden black rice, Napa cabbage, lemon grass and a Thai red curry reduction. There is a cheese course available ($30 supplement), then beautifully composed desserts like caramelized banana laced with rum on a sable crust and milk chocolate Chantilly cream (right); poached pineapple with kaffir lime, vanilla bean, coconut lime sorbet; and a flourless Tuscan Amadei bittersweet chocolate cake for two. Despite those in the food media who contend that fine dining establishments like Tocqueville are fading fast, in fact, Moreira has a tremendous amount of stiff competition, from Le CouCou and Essential by Christophe to L’Abeille and Luthun, among many others. It is the kind of competition, forged in difficult circumstances, that causes them all to operate at a very high level of gastronomy and hospitality while maintaining their own individuality. Amazing as it seems, you’ll never have the same dish at one that you’d have at another. And in no other city in America is that still the case. Open Tues.-Sat. 5:15-9:30 p.m. ❖❖❖
GOING AFTER HARRY LIME By John Mariani CHAPTER EIGHTEEN “The great advantage
of being a writer is that you can spy on people.
You're there, listening to every word, but part
of you is observing. Everything is useful to a
writer, you see — every scrap, even the longest
and most boring of luncheon parties.”—Graham Greene
Now
the
only problem was getting a visa to enter
Russia, then to make travel plans. Katie
called the Consular Section of the Embassy of
the Russian Federation (left) in London
for an appointment to obtain visas and was
able to get a Monday morning slot, two days
away. The
Embassy was on Kensington Palace
Gardens,
one of London’s most expensive
streets--nicknamed “Billionaires’ Row”—and
lined with other embassies, including Finland,
Lebanon, Israel and the Czech Republic.
Russia’s was at Number 5, a large white
Neo-Renaissance building flying the red, white
and blue flag and behind black iron gates. © John Mariani, 2016 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
FAMILY MATTERS The Best California Wines Come from Family-Owned Vineyards Gerrit and Tatiana Bouchaine By John Mariani It should
seem obvious that the people who live on their own
vineyards are going to be intensely interested in
every aspect of a product that has their name on
the label. Estates owned and run by families,
often generational, have a reputation to protect
as well as a way of life that corporate wineries
simply don’t share to the same degree. Here, of
many, are some California wineries whose family
members are evident in every aspect of growing,
picking, crushing, fermenting, aging and bottling
wines they are very proud of. Cline
Eight Spur Zinfandel 2020
($36)—Fred and Nancy Cline planted Zinfandel in
Oakley in 1982 (along with Rhône varietals like
Carignane, Syrah and Mourvèdre), moving the winery
to Sonoma-Carneros in 1989, where this strikingly
delicious Zin is made from vines 40-100 years old at School
House Creek Vineyard, owned by the Petersens, one of
the oldest grape growing families in the region.
Usually Zins are recommended with spicy, garlicky
dishes, including pizza, but this is a big, bold
example of how complex the varietal can be. I would
happily match it to game dishes and hearty stews.
Three
Sticks Origin Durell Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 ($70
)—Sonoma-based Three Sticks estate, founded in 2002
by Bill Price,
produces small lots, and this is one of the
most impressive Chardonnays I’ve tasted in some
time. Not heavy, but not one-dimensional, it shows
off good body at 14% alcohol. Winemaker Ryan Prichard has
a talent for bringing out the essence of Chardonnay,
which can be a fairly neutral grape, and takes
advantage of California sun to imbue it with a
natural sweetness in tandem
with acidic tang. It’s a lot to pay, but I think
it’s worth it for a Chardonnay so splendidly matched
to all seafood and to a wide variety of mild
cheeses. Kenwood
Vineyards Six Ridges Russian River Valley Chardonnay
2019 ($26)
—For a far less pricey Chardonnay, this Kenwood
delivers a good deal of pleasure on its various
fruit notes, a touch of citrus and a richness of
texture that is superb with shellfish. The harvest
that year came early, so the wine spent an extended
time on the lees to allow for concentration that
comes into play with its 14.1% alcohol.
Peju
Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
($70)—Tony Peju has been dubbed the “Father of
Custom Crush and Direct to Consumer Wine Marketing,”
an awkward but apt title for its savvy. His wife
Herta, known as HB, was born in Austria and grew up
in Venezuela. In 1983, HB and Tony purchased a
30-acre property in Rutherford that became their
winery. Lisa Peju became the welcoming face of the
winery, as well as the one to represent it outside
of California. Ariana Peju has overseen the
installation of 720 solar panels spread over 10,000
square feet of the winery roof to provide 35% of the
winery’s energy. So, the family name is on the line,
and this elegantly crafted Cabernet Sauvignon shows
breeding, as suitable for a fine French dinner as
for an outdoor barbecue. ❖❖❖ WHY THERE'LL ALWAYS BE AN ENGLAND
"Most important advice to remember on
a nudist beach is to slather factor 50 sunscreen on
everything; otherwise you'll soon have a hotter arse
than Kim Kardashian. (I know it's Easter but nobody
wants that kind of hot cross bun.) It's also best
not to call out, 'I'll have a large one,' even if
quite near a beach bar. And under no circumstances
do yoga. Just picture the squat pose. Need I say
anything more?"--Kathy Lette, "Midlife naked holiday
in Australia was exhilarating and freeing," London
Sunday Times (4/7/23)
❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html © copyright John Mariani 2023 |