MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  October 5,   2025                                                                                          NEWSLETTER


Founded in 1996 

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"Les Garçons de Café Royale" by Aubrey Beardsley (1894)

        

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THIS WEEK
BURGOS, SPAIN

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
BELLA LUNA   

By John Mariani


HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
CHAPTER  THIRTY

By John Mariani



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                                       THE GOTHIC GRANDEUR
                                           OF BURGOS, SPAIN

  By John Mariani


Cathedral Santa Maria de Burgos


    Thanks to Spain’s high-speed and highly efficient train system, the northern Castilian city of Burgos is only about two hours from just about every other major city in the country––San Sebastián, Pamplona, Madrid; Bilbao is only 90 minutes away. Which is ideal because, while Burgos is a city of great charm and medieval beauty, you could reach it on a day trip or use Burgos as a convenient base from which to explore those other cities.

    Its name may derive from the Germanic “burg” for a town when the Visigoths were settled there. Built in the ninth century, Burgos has been central to much of Castile and León’s history, having battled the Moors and Napoleon and involved in the Wars of Spanish Succession. During the country’s Civil War it was the base of General Franco’s nationalist government. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    The city’s  medieval architecture is exemplified by its French Gothic Cathedral of Santa María, built between the 13th and 15th centuries, with magnificent ornamented bell towers, and is the resting place of El Cid (Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar), Spain’s 11th century national hero.   In the 15th century the church was expanded and ornamented in the late flamboyant Gothic style, though a century later its dome collapsed. Re-construction began immediately to create an even finer stained glass dome. Towering above the city it can be seen from any point in the city. Along with the Cathedral of Tolédo, Santa María is one of Europe’s finest and largest Gothic structures.  

    You enter the historic center through  any of twelve the tall portals gates, and Burgos is very much a walking city, with vehicular traffic banned in the old town, whose streets wind through the quarter, its façades well- scrubbed of centuries of grime. The main square, just below the Cathedral, is a meeting place throughout the day and night for the locals and tourists, and the streets that branch off from there offer numerous restaurantes, tapas bars and cafés where you’ll find the special foods of Burgos, which include morcilla blood sausage with rice, onions and seasonings, known throughout Spain.

        Calle Lorenzo, off the main avenue of  Calle Fernán González (above), is a market street in the morning, then at night it becomes a route for tapas hopping––Casa Pancho and Meson Los Herreros are two that are very popular among more than a dozen.

        
On my visit this spring I dined at a new, modern restaurant named El Huerto de Roque (Calle Sta. Águeda 10; below) near the square. Owner Paul Ramos is among the young creative chefs of northern Spain, operating a small, very comfortable  dining room whose open kitchen offers a remarkably price €29 three-course menu that includes choices like marinated trout and fig tartare with tzatziki sauce, and a risotto with squid and monkfish as starters. Main courses include pork fillet with apricot and ponzu sauce, and entrecote of beef with fried Padrón pepper, and for dessert, tiramisù and roasted peach with yogurt sauce. There’s also a nine-course menu at €58.

        Rigorously traditional is the sprawling, multi-level restaurant Restaurante Ojeda (Calle Constabale 2) opened in 1912 (left)and most days of the week at dinner the place bustles upstairs and downstairs at the tapas bar, but on weekends reservations are absolutely necessary since the city’s families come here to celebrate and fill every table at lunch and dinner. The ceilings are heavily timbered, the walls half-tiled, the tables ample and well set apart.  Service is fast paced, as it needs to be with the number of guests they serve. The tapas menu lists at least forty options, while upstairs the more substantial menu serves classic Iberian dishes like well-fatted roast pig and roast lamb, and many you won’t easily find elsewhere. I loved hearty bean and pork sopa castellana and a thick slab of foie gras. Stewed pigeon was suffused with rich flavors from long cooking.

         The best times to visit Burgos are in spring and fall, because, although it has a dried climate than many cities in Spain, the heat can be brutal. Fine hotels can be found along the Calle Fernán González for under $120.






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NEW YORK CORNER


BELLA LUNA

574 Columbus Avenue

212-877-2267


By John Mariani





 

        The first rule of an Italian restaurant is to be simple and delicious; the second is to make everyone feel completely relaxed. Many newer Italian restaurants in New York, like Rezdȏra, Via Carota and Carbone, serve good food but possess an atmosphere of such ear-splitting intensity that the idea of having a relaxing night out if impossible.

        Fortunately, New York is a big place, and you it clearly hasn’t been in business for thirty-five years without drawing people back again and again for the hospitality and neighborhood atmosphere.

    On a recent evening I dined outside, with light traffic sailing south on the wide expanse of Columbus Avenue. It was easy enough to tell that most patrons were from the neighborhood, and owners Turgut Balikci and  Guray Yuksel seem to know everyone; if they don’t, a newcomer is welcomed with open arms.

    The interiors is lovely, with a restored landscape mural and umbrella-like rattan chandeliers and a ceiling festooned with greenery. Service, overseen by manager Ilia Sejdho, is as homey as the décor.

    Bella Luna’s menu has evolved slowly over four decades with certain dishes like the meatballs of veal and beef in tomato sauce finished with  ricotta and fresh basil set the tone of the cooking here: hearty, generous and full of flavor.

    If you are a party of four, you might want to start with any of six pizzas, or perhaps a panzanella salad of tomato, cucumber, red onion, buffalo mozzarella, garlic croutons and a red wine vinaigrette. Our table of four ordered two plates of the large langostinos in a reduction of seafood and served with crusty bread for sopping it up.

    As noted, portions are large, so many people are content with sharing a pasta or having one as a main course, and, costing between $21 and $28, they can make for a fairly inexpensive meal at a time when many downtown restaurants are selling plates of four ravioli for $30 or more. Homemade gnocchi with a bolognese sauce was very good (also available with pesto), and the creamy tomato sauce with penne alla vodka was, too. The best we had was rigatoni alla Norma with a rich eggplant ragù sweet cherry tomatoes and cool ricotta. That night lasagne was a special, though in its heft, with a slab of barely melted mozzarella on top, it was a clumsy rendition.

         Main courses stay simple, including large grilled lamb chop with French fries and a terrific braised lamb shank (left) with freshly made pappardelle. Chilean sea bass was gently cooked to be succulent, dressed with olive oil.

         The desserts are housemade, including a very good tiramisù (below), and a valuate chocolate mousse cake with vanilla ice cream.

         Bella Luna’s wine list is surprisingly modest, listing less than thirty bottlings from known producers, but the prices are certainly attractive, with most about $50 and none above $90. All are available by the glass, too.

    I am in no doubt that, after 35 years, Bella Luna has legions of West Siders as guests every night, but, since it is an easy drive across the GW Bridge or down from the Westchester, it is certainly a consideration for anyone who has an afternoon planned at the Fifth Avenue museums, the Museum of Natural History or New-York Historical Society. It is a delightful spot with charm but without pretense. You’ll feel welcomed. You’ll be back soon.

 

 

 

 

Open for lunch and dinner daily; Sat. & Sun. For brunch.








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HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
 
By  John Mariani






CHAPTER  THIRTY

 

         From that point on, everything picked up steam in the investigation. Now that Bazarov was in police custody, Marciano, Salah and Massot felt his testimony would corroborate theirs and give them more leeway to work a deal. By comparing notes the police could piece it all together, and Bazarov was the key.
         There was not a word from the Russian Federation about their diplomat’s disappearance, and the Sûreté kept him out of sight until they could interrogate him. After escaping in the van, Bazarov was brought to a safe house with plenty of security, a modest but rather nicely decorated apartment with double windows that did not open and a thick, well-protected front door. It was there that the interrogation would take place.
         Bazarov felt sure his diplomatic immunity would guarantee that he would not be tried for a high crime, especially since no one had died from the attacks. But he was well aware he would have to give up information across a broad spectrum, not just on the hotel attacks but on other aspects of Russian surveillance. The latter would be a matter for the Directorate-General for External Security (DGSE), France’s version of the American C.I.A and Britain’s MI6. Borel and people from the Directorate-General for Internal Security (DGSI) would do the questioning about the hotels.

         Across a table set with recording equipment, Bazarov and his French attorney faced Borel and the DGSI people. The Russian looked exhausted but still sat up straight and kept a look of seriousness without any sense of intimidation. There were bottles of Vittel and Badoit water on the table and an espresso machine in the corner.
         Borel began, speaking French. “How would you prefer to be addressed, Monsieur?”
         “Monsieur Bazarov will be fine.”
         “Well, then, you have already spoken with your attorney, am I correct?”
         Bazarov nodded and helped himself to a glass of water.
         “You are asking for asylum in exchange for information, correct? And you know that asylum is granted only if the seeker can prove persecution or threats from his native country.”
         Another nod, which caused Borel to ask him to speak so as to be on the record.
         “And I’m sure your attorney has advised you about claims of diplomatic immunity.”
         “Yes.”
         “But did he tell you that the conditions of asylum are only temporary, and since you are alleged to have committed a crime, those conditions may not be so easily met.”
         Bazarov raised his chin and looked at his attorney, who said, “Monsieur Borel, my client is here voluntarily and—”
         “With the help of three Americans and a number of my officers who were ready to save him from being restrained by his own people," said Borel. "Do not worry, Monsieur, we are not handing your client back to his Russian friends, at least not if he tells us what we need to know.”
         Now the attorney nodded several times and smiled.
         Borel leaned back and said, “But that may not prevent us from sending him to another country, perhaps Saudi Arabia, to be tried, if they make a request. His actions caused an enormous amount of sickness and expense.”
         “All covered by insurance, I assume,” said the attorney.
         “Perhaps, but I am sure that the Saudis will at the very least demand their people interrogate Monsieur Bazarov, with which we will have to comply. I would hate to hand him over to the Saudis and never see him again.”
         For the first time Bazarov looked concerned, turning to his attorney, who put up his hand to quiet his client.
       “I am sure, Monsieur Borel, that Monsieur Bazarov will be fully co-operative with your office and provide all the information you require of him.”
         “I trust he will,” said Borel. “So, let us begin by asking about the hotel attacks.”
         All the officers began shuffling files, opening folders and clicking pens. Borel said, “Why don’t we simply let Monsieur Bazarov tell his side of the story, and we will ask questions along the way?”
         Bazarov now sounded eager to talk, having been cautioned as to the way he told the story by his lawyer.
         “I was a pawn in the game,” he began. “As a member of the diplomatic corps, I’m sure you know, Monsieur, that we are called upon to often act under great secrecy. We are certainly aware that your people do.” Bazarov then mentioned two highly questionable actions undertaken just in the past year by the DGSI, which caused the two officials to look at each other and make notes.
         “I was in charge of arranging for the three individuals—they did not know each other—to obtain the virus packages. Only Monsieur Massot was paid; Marciano was told he was doing a favor for the Unione, and Salah a job for the Syrian security force. They were not told exactly how the virus would affect people, though they were well aware of what we were trying to accomplish when they were given the HAZMAT suits and instructions on how to deliver the virus.
         “It was all planned to occur at the same time so as to cause the greatest amount of panic in those three hotels. The plan was never to kill anyone.”
         Borel sniffed at the assertion and said, “You are lucky no one was. And how did you obtain the virus?”
         “It was simply handed to me while I was on a trip to Ankara last month. It was packed in dry ice and I was told to keep it that way at my embassy. Twelve hours out of the ice and the virus would decompose and die.”
         “So, you delivered the virus personally to the three perpetrators?”
         “No, I only delivered the one package to Massot that night. Others at the embassy had given them to the other two, after Marciano arrived in Paris and to Salah at his apartment.”
         “And you purchased Marciano’s ticket and made all the hotel reservations?”
         “A secretary at the Embassy did. It was merely a formality.”
         Borel and the DGSI officers pried out every detail about each of the attacks, and they all jibed with what the three perpetrators had said. The officers checked off boxes in their files as Bazarov spoke. This went on for three more hours, then they broke for a half hour and brought in lunch, but no wine, which Bazarov had asked for.
         After lunch the questioning resumed.
         “Now, Monsieur Bazarov, you have apparently been telling us many things we already knew, and I commend you for corroborating most of what the three perpetrators have told us. But since they did not know who was behind the whole idea to attack three Saudi-owned hotels, perhaps it is time you tell us that.”
         Bazarov looked at his attorney, who nodded.
         “The plan was conceived in Moscow,” said the Russian.
         “For what possible purpose?”
         “Someone wanted those hotels to be put out of business so that they might be purchased at a very low price.”
         “You mean some Russian billionaire, or perhaps a consortium?”
         Borel rubbed his cheeks and said, “Not just some billionaire. Russia’s biggest billionaire.”
         Borel and the DGSI knew what was coming.
         “Do you mean the President of Russia, whose name rhymes with a Canadian potato dish?”
         For the first time, as if a fever had broken, Bazarov smiled and said, “Yes, the man with the name of a Canadian potato dish. President Vladimir Putin.”



©
John Mariani, 2024



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STARTING WITH A NICE RIPE BANANA
AND A COUPLE OF HONEYDEW MELONS


"Summer is for romance, and this year I had the fling of a lifetime with the Hollywood Farmers Market. What a pleasure it is to be seduced by fruit in high-summer Los Angles.”-- NY Times (8/23/25).

















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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2025




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