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MARIANI’S Virtual Gourmet MARCH
1, 2026
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE
Joan
Crawford in "Mildred Pierce" (1945)
❖❖❖ THIS WEEK Back in the Golden Age of Greenwich Village in the 1960s, You Could Find All the Great Folk Singers of the Era and Eat Well at Legendary Restaurants. You Still Can. By John Mariani THE BISON CHAPTER TWELVE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR DAN DUCKHORN, NAPA VALLEY MERLOT PIONEER, DIES AT 87 By John Mariani ❖❖❖
Back in the Golden Age
of the 1960s, ![]()
As one of
New York’s oldest neighborhoods, dating back
to the end of the 17th century,
Greenwich Village had, since the 19th
century, become an enclave for the avant garde
and what was called bohemianism––it was at one
time or another home to Mark Twain, Robert
Louis Stevenson, Henry James, Walt Whitman,
Hart Crane, Eugene O’Neill, Jackson Pollock
and Andy Warhol. And for more than a century
its layout of winding and crisscrossing
cobblestone streets has changed not at all,
and height restrictions have kept its hamlet
charm intact.
Having little money to blow, I still
was able to have a good meal in a myriad of
places, most of them Italian given the
Village’s adjacency to Little Italy. Few were
distinguished but they were all extremely
cordial, the décor dated but cozy and a carafe
of wine cost just a few bucks. The fare at the oldest bar in New York, The White Horse Tavern (567 Hudson Street) wasn’t the draw for beat poets like Jack Kerouac and Irish scribes like Brendan Behan, but the food today is typical pub fare––burgers, sandwiches, chicken wings. There are 18 beers and commemorative cocktails like the Dylan Thomas made with “Jack Daniels Double Neat Water Shot Back.”
Since 1918 Monte’s Tavern (97
MacDougal Street) has been an example of
how Italian immigrants, in this case Louis and
Sylvia Medica, thrived in the burgeoning food
business, and today Chef Pietro preserves that
legacy with lusty dishes of sausage and
peppers, lasagna, chicken Marsala and scampi
marinara in an Old World
When lists of the best pizzerias in New
York are compiled, John’s of Bleecker
Street (278 Bleecker Street),
opened in 1929, never
fails to come in at or near the top. There are
dozens of varieties from the classics like the
Margarita to the
signature
“Boom Pie” with mozzarella,
tomato
sauce, roasted tomatoes, ricotta, garlic and
Fresh Basil. The scuffed-up décor has never
changed and the wooden booths are engraved
with decades of fans’ names.
The
Waverly Inn (16 Bank Street) in
the leafy west village dates to the mid-1800s
when it had a reputation for ghostly
visitations. Since 2006 it’s been owned by
former Vanity Fair editor-in-chief Graydon
Carter and it has long drawn a celebrity
crowd, including Taylor Swift and Bette
Midler, less crowded now than before, who come
for the signature chicken pot pie, Jonah crab
cakes and truffle mac & cheese. The
front room (below) is preferred but
it's ultra-noisy while the rear room is a bit
more civilized and has better lighting.
❖❖❖
THE BISON By John Mariani ![]()
Donald Trump, Melania Knauss,
Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine
Maxwell
David’s reluctance to
call FBI agent Frank English dated to an
incident when he’d withheld important
information from David about an earlier
investigation with Katie. David realized
English, with whom he’d previously had a good
professional relationship, was in no way
required to help an ex-NYPD cop with any
information, whether or not it was of a
secretive nature. Nevertheless, English had
given David some leads or names in his
subsequent investigations. David just didn’t
want to go to the trough if he didn’t need to.
In the case of Jeffrey Epstein, he did. He
took a deep breath and dialed English’s
number.
Federal
Attorney Al Barber’s office on West Flagler
Drive in West Palm Beach was an angular glass
and steel building set on a dismal-looking
part of the lagoon. Katie and David
identified themselves and were brought to a
nondescript office with a dark brown
desk, three
chairs, an American flag and a photo of
President George W. Bush. © John Mariani, 2024 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
DAN
DUCKHORN, NAPA VALLEY
MERLOT PIONEER, DIES AT 87 By John Mariani
Dan
Duckhorn, one of America’s most influential
winemakers, died on February 25 from heart
failure at the age of 87. With his then-wife
Margaret and eight co-investors, he was the first
champion of Merlot at his Duckhorn Wine
Company at a time in 1976 when few aficionados of
California’s Napa Valley wines showed much regard
for the grape variety Merlot, preferring instead the
blockbuster Cabernet Sauvignons that were hyped in
the media and wine competitions.
In 1988, Dan began
to acquire estates that would guarantee a continuous
supply of premium grapes, by which time the wine
writer for the New York Times pronounced him “Mr.
Merlot.” ❖❖❖ ![]() THOSE WACKY POSH PEOPLE! |
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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35) Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller. "This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe. "Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit. |
"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. "Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com. "A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia. "John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
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MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.
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© copyright John Mariani 2026