MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

MARCH 1, 2026                                                                                           NEWSLETTER



Founded in 1996 

ARCHIVE



Joan Crawford in "Mildred Pierce" (1945)



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THIS WEEK

Back in the Golden Age of Greenwich Village
in the 1960s, You Could Find All the
Great Folk Singers  of the Era and Eat Well at
Legendary Restaurants. You Still Can.

By John Mariani



THE BISON
CHAPTER  TWELVE

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
DAN DUCKHORN, NAPA VALLEY MERLOT PIONEER, DIES AT 87

By John Mariani



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Back in the Golden Age of the 1960s,
You Could Find All the Great Folk Singers
 of the Era and Eat Well at Legendary Restaurants.
You Still Can.

                                                        Peter, Paul & Mary at The Bitter End

 

       As one of New York’s oldest neighborhoods, dating back to the end of the 17th century, Greenwich Village had, since the 19th century, become an enclave for the avant garde and what was called bohemianism––it was at one time or another home to Mark Twain, Robert Louis Stevenson, Henry James, Walt Whitman, Hart Crane, Eugene O’Neill, Jackson Pollock and Andy Warhol. And for more than a century its layout of winding and crisscrossing  cobblestone streets has changed not at all, and height restrictions have kept its hamlet charm intact.

       Back in the Sixties the Village was at its height as a crucible for folk music and jazz talents who played in a slew of clubs––none of them swanky­–– that included The Village Gate, The Village Vanguard, The Bitter End, Café Au Go Go, Café Wha? and The Bottom Line, where I, as college student would go to see emerging acts like Joan Baez, Peter, Paul & Mary, Dave van Ronk, Nina Simone and Bob Dylan. Many of those clubs had no liquor license so your options were soft drinks spiked with rum-flavored syrup or coffee brewed sometime earlier in the day.

       Having little money to blow, I still was able to have a good meal in a myriad of places, most of them Italian given the Village’s adjacency to Little Italy. Few were distinguished but they were all extremely cordial, the décor dated but cozy and a carafe of wine cost just a few bucks.

       The fare at the oldest bar in New York, The White Horse Tavern (567 Hudson Street) wasn’t the draw for beat poets like Jack Kerouac and Irish scribes like Brendan Behan, but the food today is typical pub fare––burgers, sandwiches, chicken wings. There are 18 beers and commemorative cocktails like the Dylan Thomas made with “Jack Daniels Double Neat Water Shot Back.”

       Minetta Tavern (113 MacDougal Street), opened in 1937,  counted Ernest Hemingway and Ezra Pound among its guests, and, under the ownership of restaurateur Keith McNally, is considered one of the city’s best steakhouses and a place not easy to get into. Wait until 9:00 and you'll have a better chance.

       Since 1918 Monte’s Tavern (97 MacDougal Street) has been an example of how Italian immigrants, in this case Louis and Sylvia Medica, thrived in the burgeoning food business, and today Chef Pietro preserves that legacy with lusty dishes of sausage and peppers, lasagna, chicken Marsala and scampi marinara in an Old World atmosphere that never dates.

       When lists of the best pizzerias in New York are compiled, John’s of Bleecker Street (278 Bleecker Street), opened in 1929,  never fails to come in at or near the top. There are dozens of varieties from the classics like the Margarita to  the  signature “Boom Pie” with mozzarella, tomato sauce, roasted tomatoes, ricotta, garlic and Fresh Basil. The scuffed-up décor has never changed and the wooden booths are engraved with decades of fans’ names.

       Caffe Reggio (119 MacDougal Street) claims to be the first restaurant in  New York to serve cappuccino from a magnificently noisy espresso machine but its pastas like penne Genovese and penne campagnola are very good and its panino sandwiches the best in the neighborhood.

    

  The Waverly Inn (16 Bank Street) in the leafy west village dates to the mid-1800s when it had a reputation for ghostly visitations. Since 2006 it’s been owned by former Vanity Fair editor-in-chief Graydon Carter and it has long drawn a celebrity crowd, including Taylor Swift and Bette Midler, less crowded now than before, who come for the signature chicken pot pie, Jonah crab cakes and truffle mac & cheese.  The front room (below) is preferred but it's ultra-noisy while the rear room is a bit more civilized and has better lighting.

       


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THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell



David’s reluctance to call FBI agent Frank English dated to an incident when he’d withheld important information from David about an earlier investigation with Katie. David realized English, with whom he’d previously had a good professional relationship, was in no way required to help an ex-NYPD cop with any information, whether or not it was of a secretive nature. Nevertheless, English had given David some leads or names in his subsequent investigations. David just didn’t want to go to the trough if he didn’t need to. In the case of Jeffrey Epstein, he did. He took a deep breath and dialed English’s number.
         “Frank English, FBI, how can I help you?”
         “Frank, it’s David Greco.”
           There was a pause—the agent obviously hit a record button—then, “Whaddaya want, David?”
        “I’m calling only because Terry Rush said you might help with something I’m looking into in Palm Beach. The Jeffrey Epstein investigation.”
        Another pause. “Yeah, Terry said you might call.”
        “Terry said the FBI has been keeping an eye on Epstein for a while and you might fill me in.”
        David heard English sigh.
        “This another one of your jaunts with your girlfriend, David?”   
        “Her name’s Katie Cavuto, Frank, as you well know, and she’s won a lot of prizes for articles that contained info federal investigators subsequently used in their own less-than-productive research.” David realized he shouldn’t antagonize the agent.
        “Then  have her call me. I don’t owe you anything, David, unless you’ve put a badge back on your shirt and work for a legitimate police organization.”
        “Okay, consider me a citizen calling the FBI under the Freedom of Information Act to ask for some info.”
        “You’re not going to get anything out of an on-going investigation, David. You know that.”
        “Frank, if you can’t help, that’s fine; if you don’t want to help, I get it. How about just telling me two things?”       
        “Go ahead.”
        “First, is it true you’ve got a file open on Epstein, and second, does it have to do with the sexual exploitation case the Palm Beach police are looking at.”
        “Yes and yes. How’s that?”
    “So, I’m going to assume you’re looking at Epstein as a possible kidnapper of young girls as well as at his financial dealings.”
        “Assume away. I’m just not going to talk about it, David. But I’ll throw you a line: You might get more out of the DOJ or the IRS. I can tell you they are definitely looking at Epstein and a lot of his associates. Call these two guys: Al Barber at DOJ and Anthony Cherico at the IRS.”
        “You have their direct lines?”
        English said, “Do a little legwork on your own, David,” and hung up.
        David smiled, thinking he’d actually gotten more out of English than he’d anticipated.

 

 Katie could never get herself to go to an airport in winter wearing clothes for the kind of warm weather she expected in Palm Beach, so she wore jeans, t-shirt, a cardigan sweater and loafers on the plane, with enough summer clothes for three days. As soon as she got to Palm Beach airport she stuffed the cardigan in her carry-on. David had already made a reservation for her at his hotel, and, after driving back from Miami, he was waiting for her after getting through baggage claim.
         “You don’t look ready for the beach,” he said. “How about lunch?”
         “I’m starving. What’s that Cuban place you mentioned?”
         David hailed a cab and they drove to Havana Restaurant. He ordered arroz con pollo, she ordered a Cubano sandwich with ham, pork, cheese and pickles.
         “How about a caipirinha?” asked David.
         “You’re drinking caipiriñhas  now in the middle of the day?”
         “I may start. Ramona Sanchez dutifully drinks one every afternoon.”
         “So how was Madam Sanchez?”
         “I guess the word is ‘colorful.’ Very smart, business savvy, at least the business of running a call girl operation. And she knows just about everyone in Miami, at least the men.”
          The caipirhiñas arrived. David filled Katie in on all she’d told him and also the little that Frank English allowed.
         “So, I’m glad you’re here, Katie. I can only get so far with an ongoing investigation down here. As a reporter you can get to more people.”
         “Well, remember, David, I’m not on a real assignment, though I guess I can say I’m working on a story, which is true, even if it’s my idea. So, who you got?”
         David gave her the names and numbers of Al Barber and Anthony Cherico.
         “I already put in a call to their offices, said you were coming down. My cop friend Terry Rush knows them and said he could probably arrange it so I can tag along with you.”
         While waiting for their food, Katie called the numbers on her cell phone and left messages. By the time they’d finished their meal Barber at DOJ called and asked if she could come over that afternoon because he was leaving for a long weekend. Minutes later Cherico called and said he could meet her at four-thirty.
         “We’d better get a move on,” said Katie, asking for the check.
         “So,” said David, “another caipiriñha?”
         “I think I need a couple of café Cubanos instead. Maybe before dinner.”
         Which was  more than okay with David.

    Federal Attorney Al Barber’s office on West Flagler Drive in West Palm Beach was an angular glass and steel building set on a dismal-looking part of the lagoon.  Katie and David identified themselves and were brought to a nondescript office with a dark brown desk,  three chairs, an American flag and a photo of President George W. Bush.
        “Heard a lot about you two,” said Barber, who was rotund and bald, with a salt-and-pepper goatee. He wore slacks, a white button down shirt and foulard silk tie. “Especially you, Ms. Cavuto. You’ve had some tales to tell. And did so well. And you’re David, who has been along on Ms. Cavuto’s adventures?”   
         Both Katie and David thought the comments were flippant, but Barber seemed affable enough, offered them chairs and said, “So how can I help you? You’re looking into Jeremy Epstein? What exactly interests you in him?”
          Katie took the lead. “I interviewed Epstein in New York when he was in the auction for New York Magazine, but I was not able to speak to him about the charges the Palm Beach Police seem close to filing.”
          “Not just them. Epstein’s got us, the FBI and the IRS after him.”
          “And what aspect are you looking into, Mr. Barber?”
          “Off the record I can say we’re interested in his financial dealings, his off-shore accounts, his bank transfers. Not as sexy as snooping on his well-known orgies, but maybe more serious for him in the end. What I can tell you, because it’s been in the news, is that Epstein has an uncanny ability to pry money out of a lot of powerful people, and many of those people attend his parties.
        How he obtained his money to buy his place here, his New York mansion, his Caribbean island and his ranch—he’s also got a yacht, registered in the Cayman Islands—is a mystery to everyone, but they don’t want to talk about it. We do, and if it’s tied up with the sexual shenanigans, we’ll want to know that, too.  The FBI’s looking into trafficking, the IRS is doing what they do with tax fraud. The guy’s getting it from all sides.” 
         “But so far he hasn’t spent a day in prison,” said David.
         “Not yet.”
         “We were also told that the local police chief Michael Reiter has been complaining that the
state prosecutor, Barry Krischer has been dragging his feet, even putting up roadblocks to the investigation.”
         “That’s what brought the FBI in, and the word is Epstein made both some promises of paying off people and even threatened one or two through some dirty cops.  Epstein has always paid some of them off.  Krischer is a good prosecutor when he wants to be and when it’s politically expedient to advance his career. He wants to be Florida’s Rudy Giuliani (below) and  start off by getting to be mayor of Palm Beach.”
         David winced.
         “What,” said Barber, “you’re not a fan of Rudy? I worked with him on some mutual cases.”

         “So did I, and as a prosecutor he was tough on the mob, but he became like this guy Krischer so he could run for mayor as a crusader against crime.”
         “That sounds like the Giuliani I know. Krischer’s a bird of the same feather, and I don’t think he wants to ruffle Epstein’s because the creep is too well connected. Christ, he pals around with everyone from Bill Gates to George Stephanopoulos.”
         “How about with the mobs?” asked Katie.
         “Maybe just to keep things quiet, but he likes to think of himself as this high-class party giver and everyone owes him a favor.”
         “Do you know if Krischer ever attended an Epstein party?”
         Barber shook his head. “I doubt Barry’d be that dumb, but then again, if he had, maybe that’s why he’s dragging his feet on the case, as you say.”
         “We’re going to see an agent named Cherico at the IRS after we leave here,” said Katie.
         Barber shook his head again, got up from his desk and picked his jacket from a hanger on a coat rack. “Don’t’ waste your time. You won’t get piss out of Cherico. He’s very much Mr. Clean and very much tight-lipped about cases under investigation.”
         “The why do you think he agreed so readily to see Katie?”
         “I don’t know, maybe as a favor to Terry Rush or Reiter to see if he’ll loosen up. If something gets into the news, Krischer may think he has to do more than he’s doing. But, listen, hope I’ve helped. I gotta go, got a date to go fishing this weekend. I kind of wish it were on Epstein’s yacht, but I haven’t gotten an invitation. Hey, say hello to Tony for me, will you?”
         Barber walked the couple out, spoke to the receptionist and left by a side door.
         “So you think we should bother with Cherico?” asked Katie.
         “I would never break a date with an IRS agent,” said David. “They don’t like that.”
         “Hm, well, I’m sure we can pry something out of him. Maybe give us more of a connection with the FBI investigation. After all, J. Edgar Hoover sent the IRS after Al Capone on tax evasion after all else failed. And Frank English did give us his name specifically.”
         “I think we should go, see what he’s got to say, but I kind of think he would not want me in on the discussion. Might spook him.”
         Katie agreed. They got a taxi and Katie got out at the IRS offices on North Flagler Boulevard while David went back to the hotel.   

 


 


 © John Mariani, 2024





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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


DAN DUCKHORN, NAPA VALLEY
MERLOT PIONEER, DIES AT 87


By John Mariani
 


    Dan Duckhorn, one of America’s most influential winemakers, died  on February 25 from heart failure at the age of 87. With his then-wife Margaret and eight co-investors, he was the first champion of Merlot at his Duckhorn  Wine Company at a time in 1976 when few aficionados of California’s Napa Valley wines showed much regard for the grape variety Merlot, preferring instead the blockbuster Cabernet Sauvignons that were hyped in the media and wine competitions.
    Merlot was thought of as a grape to blend with Cabernet to give it a smoothness, as had been done for centuries in Bordeaux. After touring French vineyards, the Duckhorns believed they could make 100% Merlots as good as some of the great estates wines of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol.
    "I liked the softness, the seductiveness, the color," he explained.  "the fact that it went with a lot of different foods; it wasn't so bold, didn't need to age so long, and it had this velvety texture to it. It seemed to me to be a wonderful wine to just enjoy. I became enchanted with Merlot."


Margaret, winemaker Tom Rinaldi and Dan Duckhorn, 1978


    Their first harvest was in 1978,  consisting of 1,600 cases in two bottlings—800 Three Palms Vineyard Merlot and 800 Cabernet Sauvignon. “It was a great year,” he said. “We could have made wine out of walnuts

In 1988, Dan began to acquire estates that would guarantee a continuous supply of premium grapes, by which time the wine writer for the New York Times pronounced him  “Mr. Merlot.”
    Margaret Duckhorn (right), who died in 2022, was known for her deep commitment to the Napa Valley wine industry and was a generous philanthropist.
    A native California, Duckhorn an earned his B.A. and M.A. in business administration in 1962 from the University of California at Berkeley. Afterwards he was in management for  Matson Navigation Company, Adpac Computing Languages Company, and Crocker Associates in Salem, Oregon, before returning to Napa Valley in 1971 to become president of Vineyard Consulting Corporation. His research on clones and rootstocks helped everyone produce better fruit, and for his eminence among his colleagues he would be ranked with giants like Robert Mondavi, Mike Grgich and Warren Winarski.
    I remember my first taste of Duckhorn Merlots in the early 1980s and was amazed at the richness and complexity of this single varietal wine that did not manifest the tannins and high alcohol of the so-called “monster Cabs.” The Merlots were indeed velvety and easy to match with so many foods, and Duckhorn’s wines had a real impact  on the grape’s acceptance, not only in California, Oregon and Washington,  but Italy, Chile, Argentina and Australia.
    I also recall an all-Duckhorn evening in the 1980s held at New York’s Four Seasons restaurant, which had long championed California wines since 1976 at annual wine dinners. The Merlots showed splendidly from various vintages and estates, proving that this once neglected varietal was, after Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, as versatile and delicious as any made in the U.S.
    In 2007, Duckhorn sold a controlling interest of his company to GI Partners, a private equity firm based in the San Francisco Bay Area, and left day-to-day operations while still involved as  chairman of the board. Then in  2016 was bought by another equity company, TSG Consumer Partners and in 2021 went public. In 2024, it was acquired by Butter Fly Equity in Los Angeles in an all-cash transaction valued at approximately $1.95 billion. The company’s current output is 800,00 cases annually, which includes labels like Decoy, Goldeneye, Paraduxx, Migration and Canvasback.
    In addition to his second wife, Nancy Andrus Duckhorn, Duckhorn is survived by his three children, John Duckhorn, David Duckhorn and Kellie Duckhorn; a stepdaughter, Nicole Andrus; nine grandchildren; and two siblings.




 






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THOSE WACKY POSH PEOPLE!



"Another private chef witnessed a client remodel an entire garden for an alfresco dinner party, spending £5,000 on lavender plants. Someone else had fruit flown in by private jet because “it tasted different in Spain”. Another insisted on meals “in tune with the movements of the moon”: foie gras for pets. fasting on a waning crescent; feasting on a full moon; timing her meals to 'align' with lunar energy.  One sent lunch back seven times; another had a party with models, naked except for blobs of mayo."––Jack Burke, "Confessions of a private chef," Times (11/25)







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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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