MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

March 15,  2026                                                                                                    NEWSLETTER

 


Founded in 1996 

ARCHIVE



Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy



❖❖❖

THIS WEEK
MILAN POST-OLYMPICS,
Part One


By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
DELOS GREEK RESTAURANT

By John Mariani


THE BISON
CHAPTER  FOURTEEN

By John Mariani






AN ANNOUNCEMENT
: There will be no issue of MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET next week (March 29) because Mariani will be in Portugal traveling and dining for his readers' pleasure,






















❖❖❖



MILAN POST-OLYMPICS
Part One

By John Mariani


Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in  Milan

 

    Now that the 2026 Winter Olympics have ended, their host city of Milan has returned to its normal dignified pace, just in time for spring, when temperatures are cool and the warm sun reflects off the city’s grandeur.
    Milan will always be a northern Italian city with its own character  as a center for industry (which does not, thankfully,  intrude upon the historic center), banking and fashion. It also has Italy’s most eclectic gastronomy, from very high end to family trattorias. Here are those that express the contemporary culinary scene in all its variety.

 

    For an immersion into Italian food culture––far more so than the commercialized Eataly chain––the famous Peck (9 Via Spadari), opened in 1883 is, like Harrod’s Food Hall in London and Fauchon in Paris, a dizzying series of rooms where you’ll find the best Italian products, both fresh and prepared with lighted cases of charcuterie, cheese, meats, seafood, pasta and a wine cellar where sommelier Gianluca Sanso offering more than 5,000 selections and 150,000 bottles. The third floor is a charming skylighted tea room with myriad Italian pastries.  Around the corner is Cracco (4 Via Victor Hugo), highly refined ristorante with a €215 tasting menu and a la carte dishes like steamed blue losbter with kiwi and aviocado; risotto with morels and black truffles; and beer-braised guinea fowl with asparagus and borage. The chic new Peck Italian Bar (3 Via Cesare Cantù) is great for a bite before attending the opera at La Scala.

 

   

    One of the grandest of the historic hotels in Milan  is the legendary Principe e Savoia on the broad Piazza della Repubblica in city center, opened in 1927 and now under the Dorchester Collection aegis.   The main dining room, Acanto, is very beautiful, with gleaming Murano glass chandeliers, expanses of mahogany and glass, and pink roses on every table. The new chef here is Matteo Gabrielli, who offers a very well-priced six-course €125 that at the moment includes chickpea  fritters called farinata; a pink shrimp tartare with lemon and ricotta;  risotto with black garlic and snails; stuffed sole; guinea fowl with raisins and orange sauce and lemon tart. There is a private dining room within Acanto called Tavolo Cristal, surrounded by a curtain of Swarovski crystal. The Principe Bar is one of the most sophisticated meeting spots in town,

 

 

At the much newer and very fine Park Hyatt Milan (Via Tommaso Grossi 1) near the Financial District, Pillico 3 Milano opened in 2022 with a new chef, Milan-born Guido Paternollo, who has worked with French masters Alain Ducasse and Yannick Alleno. Formerly a shadowy place, it has been redone by architect Flaviano Capriotti and, in tones of yellow, brown and green, it is now brighter and more convivial. There is a seven-course €160 dinner that goes by the seasons: right now that means foie gras and scallops lately cooked with black truffles and basil; red mullet with celery and a sauce of Nebbiolo wine; and wagyu beef with smoked eel and crispy rice.

 

 

The Palazzo Parigi (Corso di Porta Nuova, 1) in the fashion district is in an elegantly appointed 16th century palace designed by owner/architect Paola Giambelli and interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon with white, pink and green  marble throughout.  But its restaurant has a more subdued charm with a Bistro Lounge Caffe Parigi overlooking the garden. It has an extensive menu of traditional and modern dishes, from buckwheat ravioli packed with potato and Valetellina Bitto cheese dressed with garlic-sage butter; roasted squab with Champagne sauce; and osso buco with crunchy saffron rice.


Opened by Beatrice Mungai and now run by her daughters, Beatrice and Roberta, Bice  (Via Borgospesso 12) has been around for a century and since the 1970s  has been the meeting place for the designers, models, editor and retail buyers attending the Milan fashion shows, and the menu, once mostly Tuscan, now with many Milanese dishes,  changes little from year to year. It has a classic, clubbish look, with Scotch plaid carpet, dark wood wainscotting and red fabric chairs. The food is simple and delicious, from tagliolini pasta with funghi porcini; pappardelle alla Bice; and veal cutlet alla milanese.

 

 

 




    Alla Cucina delle Langhe
 (Corso Como 6), long a hangout for Italian and international journalists who trade stories and sources over Piemontese specials like risotto cooked in Barolo wine; ravioli del plin with pesto; and fonduta with crostini. Its Belle Epoque décor and local artwork are part of its tranquil ambience and long lunches usually end off with a glass of grappa.

 

 















❖❖❖



NEW YORK CORNER

                                    Delos Greek Restaurant      

                                                                        102 W 47th Street

                                                     212-931-4747
   

                                                                          By John Mariani

 

       No one knows why Greek immigrants became so involved and identified with the American diner, which never existed in Greece, but at one time they were the only place to find certain dishes that became part of the menus Greek entrepreneurs expanded on in full-scale restaurants. Those menus pretty much stuck to the standards––dolmades, spanakopita, moussaka and baklava––until the opening 20 years ago, first in Montréal, then in New York, of Estiatorio Milo, which shifted the paradigm towards Mediterranean seafood set on ice in full view of the guest.

        With the opening of Delos in the Theater District, a more expansive style of cuisine and design should affect what happens from here on.

       For starters, it is  big, spacious and very beautiful, with convivial soft lighting, arched plaster walls derived from Cycladic forms accented with sea blue banquettes, a wall of wine and a canny use of soft surfaces and ceiling slats that sop up the noise to allow for normal conversation at the tables.

    Delos, named after the Aegean island, is the labor of love by Stathis Antonakopoulos, who also runs the Carnegie Diner & Café next door. Executive Chef Giannis Parikos has a long resume at leading restaurants in Europe, including Hytra  and Varoulko Seaside in Athens.  The impressive wine program by Despoina Karapostolaki is rich in modern Greek labels, with  99 options under $99.



    You should start with a platter of five spreads, including
taramosalata with grated bottarga, smoked eggplant salad with pepper, cheese dip spiced with za’atar, and classic tzatziki to be savored with a basket of warm pita bread. The salads can make for a light main course or lunch, and I found the ospria (legumes) of lemon-scented black eyed peas, with avocado, pepper, chili, tomato and herbs a lovely, refreshing departure.

    There are two raw fish dishes, sea bream ceviche with lime and coriander and sea bass carpaccio with seaweed and chili.

    Garides saganaki had wonderful flavors of plump shrimp in fresh tomato sauce with feta cheese and a dash of oregano and orzo.

    Grilled octopus with a mint vinaigrette was nicely seasoned but, at least on the night I visited, disappointing chewy.

    The piping hot moussaka (left) with its several layers of eggplant, rich beef sauce, potatoes and a lush béchamel cheese sauce was a stand-out among the main courses, as was the hearty arnaki stew of lamb shoulder slowly roasted with Israeli couscous, cherry tomatoes, and suffused with a deep red wine reduction.

    A  very large lavráki (the ubiquitous branzino) was deftly de-boned tableside with an abundance of sweet, moist flesh glossed with olive oil and lemon and horta mixed greens on the side (below). I was disappointed that this and just two other species (one the day’s catch) are the only fish on the menu. I would love to have seen Mediterranean sea bream (tsipoura), red mullet (koutsmoura), swordfish (xiphias) red snapper (fagri) and grouper (sfrida) offered.

       Desserts include baklava, kataifi, custardy galaktoboureko and a moist chocolate cake.

       I must speak of the service at Delos, which is a paragon of what it should be everywhere: The greeting is warm, the seating is smooth, the thank-you’s many and the waiters know the food well. I am, therefore, happy that Delos brings such a fresh Mediterranean breeze to midtown with such a high degree of hospitality, which in Greek––philoxenia––translates as “love of strangers,” which is considered one of the hallmarks of its ancient culture.

 

Open for lunch and dinner daily.







❖❖❖


THE BISON
By John Mariani



                       Donald Trump, Melania Knauss, Jeffrey Epstein and Ghislaine Maxwell




CHAPTER FOURTEEN

 

         The ninety-minute drive down I-95 to Calle Ocho gave Katie and David time to plan for their interview with Sanchez.  Katie was wearing a pale blue sleeveless blouse and navy blue slacks. David was in chino shorts and a  green polo shirt.
         They pulled into the Versailles parking lot, and Katie marveled at the eccentric faux-baroque décor inside. As usual the place was packed, especially since this was Saturday when people came for breakfast and brunch and stayed for hours. When they entered, the host recognized David and said, “Ah, yes, Señor Greco, Madam Sanchez is already at her table.”
         She was dressed in a long flowered sheath, her hair in a Caribbean-patterned turban. Her make-up and nail polish picked up the pastel colors of her dress.  A caipirhiña was already on the table.
         David said, “It’s a pleasure to see you again, Madam Sanchez,” realizing he was showing a kind of ironic deference to a woman who ran a whorehouse. “This is my friend and associate Katie Cavuto.”
         Sanchez looked her up and down, extended her hand and said, “How good a friend are you to David?”
         Katie looked at David, smiled slightly and said, “W
e’ve worked very closely on a  number of investigations for my magazine, McClure’s.”
         Sanchez shrugged and smiled at David as if to suggest he was fortunate to have such a lovely friend.
         Surprisingly, Katie asked straight out, “Do you mind if I call you Ramona?”
         Sanchez raised her palms and assented.
         “Well, from what David has told me that you told him, it has always bothered you that Jeffrey Epstein has been trafficking underage girls with the men who come to his parties. Is that correct?.”
         “I assume David told you the reason,” said Sanchez, referring to her own past. “You know, prostitution may not be legal in Miami or Palm Beach but is tolerated for the reasons it’s always been tolerated, and it is simply not high on anyone’s political agenda to crack down on the good houses. Oh, now and then some mayor or councilman trying to get re-elected will say he’ll rid the city of whores, but it never happens.”
         “Even if those whores are underage?”
         Sanchez took a sip of her drink and frowned. “Even then.”
         “Then why are the Palm Beach police investigating Epstein for what he’s doing?”
         David said, “I assume because he’s bringing girls in from out of state. It’s against the federal Mann Act.”
         David was referring to a law, also called the White Slavery Act, passed in 1910 to prohibit the transportation of women and girls across state lines “for immoral purposes,”  an activity which at the time was said to be run by a secret conspiratorial group of foreigners, many kidnapping girls who came to the big cities to work in ice cream and candy stores. Though rarely used, it was the Mann Act that put rock singer Chuck Berry in prison for three years for transporting a fourteen-year-old girl across state lines.
         “It’s a good law,” said Sanchez. “Why bring in these out-of-state girls when we have such beautiful women here in Florida? You know, Cubans are very Catholic, and if they tolerate brothels to keep husbands in line and introduce their sons to sex, it’s okay. But to corrupt a little angel is un gran pecado!”
         The three of them ordered lunch. Sanchez said, “It’s Saturday, I’m going to have another caipiriñha. You join me?”
         Katie and David said they’d stick to beer for the time being.
         “So, Ramona, David’s told you that I’m looking into Epstein and how these infamous parties are arranged, who gets invited and how political and business powers are involved. And if he is using underage girls, that’s clearly something he should be nailed for.”
         “So you want me to introduce you to some of these girls to talk about what happened to them, correct? I will have to think about that. Mine was a business based on trust but it was also based on not asking a lot of questions about a girl’s background. I don’t even want to know their real names, so if the cops come prying I really can’t help them find a girl—unless, of course, she’s been hurt or murdered. If one of my girls came back from a job cut or bruised, I call the police right away and tell them to meet me at the hospital.”
         “Then you can’t direct us to any of these girls you say Epstein has  been trafficking and abusing?” asked David.                     Sanchez put down her drink, stared off into the dining room for a long pause, then said, “I will put you in touch with a girl from another house—not mine—who went from being corrupted by Jeremy and decided she could not return to her home, so she stayed and joined the profession.  She’s about nineteen or twenty now, very beautiful, very bitter girl.”
         “That would help a great deal,” said Katie. “Is she here in Miami?”
         Sanchez nodded. “Oh, yes. She’s sitting over at that table with those two men.”
         Katie and David furtively glanced over to the table and saw the two men—Latinos, one about thirty, the other maybe in his fifties—but only the girl’s back. She wore a shirt tied above her hips and Capri pants. Her hair was blond, settling on her shoulders.
         “You want to meet her?” asked Sanchez. “I’ll call her over.” Sanchez motioned to the waiter, spoke to him in Spanish and he went over to the table and said something to the girl, who turned around and saw Sanchez waving her fingers. The girl immediately got up and came over to Sanchez’s table.
         “Sit down, Susanna,” said Sanchez, “I want you to meet two friends of mine from New York.”
         The girl was indeed very beautiful, clearly not Cuban from her skin tone, with pale blue eyes and perfect teeth.
         “This Katie Cavuto, this is David Greco. They are investigating our friend Jeffrey Epstein, and I said you might want to speak with them.”
         The girl sized up the couple and said, with a slight southern accent, “They’re not Miami cops?”
         Sanchez shook her head and said, “No, Katie is a reporter for a magazine, and David is an ex-cop from NYPD. We were talking about how I want nothing to do with Jeffrey’s bringing in young girls to his parties.”
         The girl’s eyes narrowed and she lost her smile. 
        
At that moment the younger man from the other table came over and said to David, “Excuse me, Señor, but Susanna is having lunch with us,” then grabbed the girl by her arm. She tried to wrench it free and said, “Don’t touch me. I’ll be back in a minute.”
         “No,” he said, “you come back right now. My friend wants to go back to his hotel with you now.”
         David stood up and said, “You didn’t hear her? The lady said she’d be back in a minute. “
         “And who are you, Señor? Her grandpapa? Come on, Susannah,” and grabbed her arm again. 
        
David grabbed the man’s wrist, twisted it and released the girl’s arm, then cupped the man’s elbow and brought his  arm behind his back. Others in the room saw the commotion, as did the restaurant manager, who signaled two waiters, one bigger than the other, to go to the table and de-fuse the situation. Sanchez, who saw the older man at the table get up to leave, was very calm and said, “Señor Vargas, let the girl alone or maybe your friend over there will get very nervous, you know?”                 With the two waiters hovering over him, Vargas  stopped struggling and David released his hold.
         “I give you two minutes, Susannah,” he said. “Two minutes or you can go back to the house and pay me double what my friend over there was going to pay.”
         Susannah lifted her chin, told Sanchez everything was all right and said she’d be back at the table in two minutes.
         “I gotta go,” she said. “If you two want to talk, Madam Sanchez knows where to reach me. And thank you for handling Vargas. I hope he forgets this just happened.”
         David wanted to say, “And if he doesn’t I can handle him,” but instead said, “I won’t be in Miami long enough for him to see me again.”
         Susannah went back to the other table and left with the older man in a Lexus. Vargas pointed his finger and shook it at David , saying, “I see you again some time,” then flicked his finger up and puffed at the tip as if blowing off the end of a gun barrel. He put money on the table and left in a silver Mercedes convertible.
         “Vargas is an asshole,” said Sanchez, who was eating again. “He runs about five girls, including Susannah—small time pimp—but I doubt she’s going to stay with him.  The man’s a pig.”
         “So you think Susannah will see us?” asked Katie.
         Si, she hates Jeffrey for what he did to her and would love to see him in jail with some Cuban gang members. By the way, her name is  not Susannah. I don’t really know what it is. I heard she came from Atlanta.”
         “Anyone else we might interview?” asked Katie.
         “You ask a lot for someone I don’t even know. You speak with Susannah. Maybe she knows some other girls who will talk to you. And now, if you excuse me, I will go for a nice swim and  watch Univision until dinner.”
         Again, David paid the check and handed it to Katie.
         “How was the food?”

          
Katie swallowed and said, “I don’t even remember what I ate.”

 

 

 


 
© John Mariani, 2024




❖❖❖


 

“Food does what art has done at its very best — it bypasses reason and speaks directly to the senses. A dish can hold memory, emotion and identity within it as well. Like art, food bypasses rational thought and communicates through the senses making a universal language through emotion and memory. Gastronomy belongs in the same conversation as art.”––The Danish culture minister, Jacob Engel-Schmidt, addressed the country’s top chefs at the restaurant last month.





❖❖❖



 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




❖❖❖







The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

If you wish to subscribe to this newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html



© copyright John Mariani 2026




1622