Virtual Gourmet

  February 16,  2020                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

Founded in 1996 


"At Mouquin's" (1905) by William Glackens



By John Mariani


By John Mariani

By John Mariani


By John Mariani


       The region of Pavia and its capital city of the same name share the abundance of what Lombardy has to offer, including 13 DOC wine zones. Polenta and risottos rule over pasta, and dishes like osso buco and vitello tonnato deserve their classic status. Robiola, Gorgonzola, Taleggio, Crescenza and Bel Paese are all Lombardian cheeses. So you may assume  that the ristoranti and trattorie of Pavia offer a wide range of gastronomic experiences. Here are a number of every stripe.
                   (Remember, tax and service are included in all menu prices.)


Piazza del Lino, 15
382 180 3920

    The new Lino is not only one of the newest and most modern ristoranti in Pavia but, to my mind, the best and certainly the most sophisticated, drawing largely on the cuisine and ingredients of the Po Valley.
    Located in Piazza del Lino, within a municipal garden area, Lino’s windows throw lovely golden light onto the square. Once through the front door you find yourself in a chic bar and lounge whose size, neither small nor large, is perfect for a pre-dinner cocktail.  The décor of the dining room, done in strong and pale colors, with its tall windows, is a reflection of the influence of Milan on chic contemporary design. Manager and maître d’ Fabrizio Ciccarello is the impeccably dressed fellow with the impeccable Lombardian manners.
    Chef Federico Sgorbini, with the consultancy of the highly regarded Andrea Ribaldone, offers an exceptionally well-priced four-course menu at €55 (also à la carte);  my meal began with small arancini rice balls wrapped in cuttlefish skin dotted with barbecue sauce. “Grissino bollito” (right) which means “boiled breadsticks,” is actually spaghetti colored and scented with saffron and served with a wild boar sauce (€16).  The most marvelous dish was veal cheeks stewed in red Bonarda wine with tamarind that were exquisitely tender and flavorful (€24).
    For dessert zuppa di voghera  was a chocolate-coffee gelato with cardamom gelée and hazelnuts  (€10).
    The wine list, as you might imagine in a restaurant of this caliber, is outstanding, with all the finest Lombardian labels.




Lungo Ticino Visconti 2
382 27441

    Bardelli is an elegant but not at all stuffy ristorante near the covered bridge in the heart of Pavia, restored in 1960 from an old boat building structure.
    The lovely glass-enclosed dining room overlooks the river and has a ceiling of billowing Fortuny fabrics. There is an à la carte menu (with antipasti €16-€20; pastas €13-€24; main courses €20-€24) and a menu degustazione at a remarkable €40 per person.
    My menu the night I visited began with a polenta torta rich with  aged Grana Padana cheese and a creamy center. Risotto with butter and Parmigiano, artichokes and Taleggio was simply and sumptuously good, followed by delicately thin tortelli with braised beef and aromatic sage.  Roast veal (left) was superb, and even though it seemed unseasoned it was suffused with its own roasting juices. A sorbetto smoothie came before dessert, which was an array of petit fours.


Hotel Moderno
Viale Vittorio Emanuele II, 29

  If you are hungry for hearty, old-fashioned Pavian food and don’t care much about eating it in a garish orange and neon-lighted dining room, drop into Peo, adjacent to the Hotel Moderno. Clearly its clientele are families in the area and prices are geared to them. It was a great spot for me to unwind after a flight to Milan and transport to Pavia, so I scarfed down chef-owner Pompeo Rotondi’s freshly made potato gnocchi (right) with quickly cooked tomato (€10); excellent  ravioli with a braised beef sugo (€11); vitello tonnato (€15), and a flattened veal chop alla Milanese with roasted potatoes (€18), called “elephant’s ear.”  Swordfish came as a thin slab but of good fresh flavor (€17).  I also shared a platter of delightful zucchini generously covered with Parmigiano (€13). Dessert was a nice vanilla panna cotta (€6) and a warm apple tart (€6).




Via Roma, 26


    Cascina Vittorio is set on two floors of a 19th century country home, now a destination for gourmands who drive in from nearby Pavia and Milan. Chef Giovanni Ricciardelli, together with his wife and family, works within traditions refined by his own youthful sensibility. His is a rustic cooking full of big flavors, even including the best, most moist, olive-glossed focaccia I’ve ever had (right).
    My meal, fixed priced at €60, included one of his signature items—he claims to sell 500 a week—layers and layers of eggplant millefoglie enriched with Parmigiano. This was followed with risotto mantecato (below) with local squash from Bertagnina di Dorno, beautifully composed with a sauce of Gorgonzola and Calabrian licorice flavorings.
    The main course was a very traditional brasato of local beef cooked for hours in Bonarda and Barbera wines, served with crisp potatoes and herbs. All you need is a fork to eat the super-softened meat.
    Dessert was a soft, light  golden panettone cake that is baked and sold downstairs, dotted with candied fruit and served with fresh cream. You eat it with your fingers and a cup of espresso.




Str. Madonna, 109
383 83214

    Constructed by a fellow named Roberto Lechiancole, who made a fortune crafting helicopter blades, this small eco-tourism six-room resort within the vineyards has a splendid trattoria overlooking the Pavian landscape. The wine cellar and tasting room, whose tables are made from corks, is a charming spot to nibble on some bread and salame while sampling the nine wines made here.
    There is a stress on seasonal vegetables as well as grilled items from local cows, pigs and chickens, and game in the fall and winter, which goes into the making of the salume, the mini-meatballs  and cheeses. In the trattoria I enjoyed a deceptively simple risotto with Molana del Brallo cheese and aromatic herbs mixed with a crumble of cotechino pork sausage (right) and a reduction of Pinot Nero wine.



Via S. Pellico, 19
Rivanazzano Terme
383 944720


    Albergo Selvatico established its reputation with locals and visitors as a hotel in 1912, and today fourth-generation owner Piera Spalla Selvatico and her daughters Michela and Francesca and husband Sergio Dagliua still run everything with enormous courtesy and care, in both the kitchen and big low-lighted, L-shaped dining room.
    A tasting menu began with a glass of sparkling wine from La Versa and a selection of local salame from Varzi and peppers stuffed with anchovies and coppa pork sausage. Then came a torta of squash shaped like a priest’s hat with a fonduta of Taleggio cheese. Tagliatelle made from chestnut flour came with autumn’s best funghi porcini, while agnolotti (right) was graced with a stewed meat ragù. There is also a risotto made with green wild hops cooked with lard and butter, and another with sweet red peppers.
    The main course was a carpaccio of beef darzese (from an “old race”) of cattle, and to finish, an apple crumble with warm, whipped custard zabaglione.



Via XX Settembre


    Anywhere L’Oca Ciuca were located, it would be extraordinary in the true sense of the word, in that it specializes in dishes made with goose—goose salame, goose sausage, goose pastas, goose risotto, goose stew, roast goose! That it is located on a charming street off the main piazza of the Pavian city of Vigevano makes it all the more requisite for anyone visiting the area to eat there. In two rooms with 20 tables, Fulvia, Stefano, Rossana and Rinaldo cook for you and serve up big portions of very lusty Lombardian fare.
    Over a long lunch with wines from a 150-label list, I began with a flan of pumpkin with a silky besciamella enriched with Taleggio (€8)—a rare non-goose dish. Then came a selection of well-fatted goose-based charcuterie (€15); Carnaroli risotto with big borlotti beans and goose sausage (€14); freshly made egg tagliatelle (above) with a meaty goose ragù (€13); and a leg of crisp-skinned goose (€20) cooked for twelve hours (right).
    For dessert there’s a fruit crostata (€6) and a local favorite, sbrisolona alla mandorla (€6), a cornmeal and almond cake with warm whipped zabaglione.




By John Mariani
Photos: Pat Dunford
126 West 18th Street (near Avenue of the Americas)


    Years ago I was pretty sure that Alfred Portale would stay in his kitchen at Gotham Bar & Grill forever—he was there for thirty-four years—so it was to my surprise that he left Gotham to move a few blocks away to open his own namesake restaurant.
    Portale was among that group of innovative chefs of the 1980s who had come up the old-fashioned way, putting in his time with old masters, like Michel Guérard, Jean Troisgros and Jacques Maximin, absorbing every aspect of his craft. When he took over Gotham, which had been a disaster since the day it opened, he brought his entire arsenal of talents to create his own distinctive style of French-American cuisine, becoming famous for his layered towers of food on the plate that everyone copied.
    Increasingly at Gotham (and everywhere else) Italian accents entered the menu, so it is no surprise that his new restaurant was going to be modern cucina Italiana from antipasti to dolci, with a thoroughly Italian wine list (overseen by Steven Washuta).
    Portale is composed of two dining rooms, one with a handsome bar, the other larger, extending to the glassed-in kitchen. There is a good deal of raw materials like reclaimed timber and bleached white oak, as well as white brick walls, burled maple and gray and white marble tabletops.  This makes for a lot of hard surfaces and a good deal of noise, not in the least helped by boom box sounds in the mix. The lighting at 7 p.m. is enchanting—you can see everyone coming and going and read the menu with ease—so I can’t imagine why they lower the lights after 8 o’clock, which makes difficult both reading the menu and enjoying the bright colors of the well-crafted dishes.
    A lack of any dress guidelines—“codes” are almost non-existent anywhere—means that any gentleman in a jacket looks elegant at Portale and the rest don’t. On one visit there was a very strange, very large man in a very bulky forest camouflage suit and matching lumpy hat who looked either like he was on the hunt for Big Foot or was Big Foot himself in camouflage.
    The menu is of an ideal size, neither too concise nor maddeningly large. With chefs de cuisine Jacinto Guadarrama and Adam Longworth, Portale shows the kind of finesse his cooking has always had, not just in the glossy pastas but in the crisp-skinned main courses.
    There are some “Small Snacks” at the top of the menu, including some deliciously chewy pagnotta integrale ($5), a loaf of warm whole wheat bread. Hamachi crudo was a fine and pretty dish, but one now ubiquitous around town. On two tries I found the fritto misto ($21) of calamari, shrimp and cod with lemon aïoli tasted more like its tempura-like batter than what was inside.
    Every pasta I tried was outstanding, all with the proper chew and the pasta itself the star on the plate. Cavatelli made with ricotta ($19) came in a fiery arrabiata sauce and a little coriander pesto; Fat but delicate cappellacci ($24) were stuffed with goat’s cheese and wild mushrooms, while ruffled campanelle came with a deeply flavorful duck ragù and perfectly cooked broccoli di rape; snail-shaped lumache were heartier still, rich with short ribs meat and a white Bolognese sauce, black truffles and parmigiano ($28). The risotto with hedgehog mushrooms, spinach and luscious fontina ($26) gets all the texture and flavors coalesced in harmony.
    I should add that the pasta dishes are full main course portions, and there are plenty of lower-end Italian trattorias charging the same prices and too many high-end restaurants charging a great deal more. Pastas at Ai Fiori are all $37. Carbone won’t even list their prices on the website for fear people will faint. Indeed, prices across Portale’s menu are lower than competitors’ like Felidia and Del Posto.
    It is almost expected that Italian kitchens’ main courses—secondi—will be simpler and less savory than the antipasti and primi, but Portale’s secondi are all a match for what preceded them, starting with an impeccably cooked, plump branzino with delicate squash, red Swiss chard and sundried tomatoes ($33). Duck breast’s skin is as crisp as at a fine Chinese restaurant, with pink, juicy meat within, served with sun chokes, radicchio and chili honey that makes it closer still to Peking duck ($38). Roast pork, rarely seen on New York Italian tables, is very good, nicely fatted, with roasted peppers and a piquant orange mostarda ($36). And long ago Portale mastered his roast chicken technique, resulting in a glistening, brined and browned bird with woodsy mushrooms, tangy dandelion greens and blue corn polenta ($29). And if you really, really crave beef, you’ll find the bistecca dry-aged sirloin, at a very reasonable $44, much to your taste, with Brussels sprouts and crisp, crushed fingerling potatoes dusted with Parmigiano.
    Desserts by Kaity Mitchell are safely traditional but delectable enough and good for sharing, especially the milk chocolate tiramisù dome with espresso gelato ($14), and the pear tart with maple mascarpone, poached pears and maple gelato ($14). A selection of three cheeses is $17.
    Portale’s wine list admirably offers plenty of wines by the glass under $20, and there is a remarkable number of amaro digestivi, though I suspect including the wicked-tasting Fernet Branca at $14 is a joke.
    I expected nothing less from Alfred Portale that his new restaurant has the same elevated refinement I’d always enjoyed when he cooked at Gotham (which I shall be writing about next week), but he seems even more in his element. Call it a comfort zone, and his heart is clearly in every detail. Portale is, along with Felice 56, one of the most impressive ristoranti to open in New York in a long time. 

Open for lunch Wed.-Fri.; dinner nightly; brunch Sat. & Sun.




By John Mariani

Alessandro Veglio in the vineyards in La Morra, Piedmont, Italy

    Given the current popularity of Barolos—with some top labels selling for up to $400 a bottle—it’s hard to believe that less than a half century ago the wine was barely sold outside of Piedmont, where it is made.
    “Piedmont was once very poor,” says Alessandro Veglio of Mauro Veglio winery in La Morra. “The market value of Barolo back then was zero.” Indeed, Barolos were often given away free with the sale of a demijohn of Dolcetto,  a lesser wine drunk in large quantities locally.
    Today, however, Piedmont is one of the top export regions, with 1 billion Euros in sales. Although  seventh in terms of quantity produced among Italy’s 20 wine regions, it is second only to Veneto, which exports vast quantities of Prosecco, worth 2.2 billion Euros.  A large part of Piedmont’s surge is due to Barolo, where a top vineyard may sell for 2 million Euros, compared with ten years ago, when the price was 1 million.
    The Veglio family in Piedmont knows well the history of the area’s viniculture, having worked the land since the beginning of the last century,  cultivating, raising livestock and “inventing new ways of getting by every day.” Angelo Veglio, born in 1928, sought to escape the life of a sharecropper to own a vineyard, which he could not do until the1960s in the township of La Morra. In 1979 the family acquired a shabby farmhouse called Cascina Nuova and some of its property with about five hectares of vineyards that contained cru appellations of Arborina and Rocche dell’Annunziata.
    Angelo’s son Mauro (of three) believed in his father’s dream that Barolo could be a great wine and make a profit, taking over the management of the winery in 1986. A decade later the vineyards of Monforte d’Alba were added to their property in La Morra, just as Barolo began its rise in reputation in the international wine market. Veglio invested in modern technology, eschewing age-old methods that had given Barolo a reputation as an ill-made, heavy, dark red wine. In 1992 Veglio had its first harvest and vinification in the new winery, built next to the foundations of the Cascina Nuova farmhouse.
    Mauro’s nephew Alessandro, 38 (together, right), united his own winery with Cascina Nuova, bringing youthful exuberance to the estate as well as a commitment to marketing and spreading recognition in world markets. Now, with 16 hectares of vineyards and five rented, the estate produces 120,000 bottles, including five crus—Arborina, Gattera, Rocche dell’Annunziata, Castelletto and Paiagallo—as well as local wines like Langhe Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto d’Alba. About 50% of the wines are sold to restaurants, the rest to wine shops, with one-third of their exports shipping to the U.S., one-third to Europe and one-third to the rest of the world."
    While on a whirlwind marketing trip, Alessandro sat down with me for dinner in New York, where he said, “We want to make approachable wines that you don’t have to wait years to develop, wines that you can drink when we release them. For the Nebbiolo Langhe we work with 50% younger grapes from our vineyards that are four to 20 years old and 50% from older vineyards that we rent in the Roero region. We aim to make Barolos with softer tannins. Our aim is to be more like the Grand Crus of Burgundy, not Bordeaux. We believe that the Nebbiolo grape [used in Barolo] can achieve the finesse of Burgundy’s Pinot Noir but have its own distinct personality. We want to show that our crus are each one distinctive from the other.”
    Without generations of Veglios stuck in the old ways of making Barolo, Alessandro is free to experiment. “My uncle Mauro had no children,” he said, “so he told me, ‘What if we go crazy? Let’s try whatever you think will work.’”
    Part of what Alessandro feels must work is attention to global warming in the vineyards. “We want to keep the grapes from getting burned by the sun,” he said, “So we leave more leaves to cover the grapes. We also installed netting on both sides of the vineyards’ roads in order to guard against hail, but we’ve found they are also providing additional shade.”
    The Veglios use no herbicides or pesticides, instead using pheromones that “confuse the mating habits of insects and limit their reproduction.”  Grapes are exposed to natural wild yeasts, not inoculations.  Except for the Paiagalo cru, all aging is done in small French oak barriques.
    Strong evidence of the Veglios’ plans to make their wines more drinkable upon release is to be found in their very good Langhe Nebbiolo 2018 ($25), which is not aged in new oak, has a medium body, well-knit fruit, acid and light tannins and an adaptability to a wide range of foods. It’s wholly ready to consume right now, and, given its price, on a regular basis.
    The Barolo Classico 2016 ($39) is from what Alessandro says is “the most beautiful vintage I’ve ever seen, right from the start of the growing season through harvest.” The wine is exemplary of what happens when nature cooperates so completely, giving up a voluptuous body and layered texture of dark fruits balanced with acid and tannins that provide character.
    Barolo Gattera 20 ($60) is more complex, drier than the Classico but still very full of the fruit flavor of first-rate Nebbiolo.
    Of the crus, Arborina 2016 ($60) comes from “soil poor in nutrients, consisting of Sant’Agata Marl, a mix of clay, fine sand, and limestone,” which make the vines struggle but also to produce wines with a great deal of fruitiness and concentration.Flavors get bigger and more intense with Casteletto 2016  ($60), from four hectares in a southeast position with a high content of sandstone. Paiagallo 2016 ($90) originates on the eastern slopes of the township of Barolo, and at 15% I found it too heavy, too dense and not in line with Mauro Veglio's intent to produce wines to be enjoyed upon release. 



“It’s been a year since I said goodbye to you. Your cheesy delights, your garlic-dusted edges. I gave you up for a full 365 days, and to be frank, it was a terrible year. I don’t mean that in the hyperbolic way that lovers do when they’re finally reunited. I mean that it was a Bad Year™, and after all this time, I guess I’m just one pizza-hungry Andrew Lincoln, standing outside your door with several sheets of poster board that reveal my Dominos order. But like Andrew, I know now that I can walk away.”—Justin Kirkland, "What I Learned About Love During My Year Without Pizza," (1/1/20)

"If there’s one thing we’ve learned in the last several months, it’s that a good fried chicken sandwich is worth fighting for."—Carly McFadden, Cleveland Magazine (2/6/20).





 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from

   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 


“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.

“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.


The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.

"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.

Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.

"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross,

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.



FEATURED LINKS: I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four excellent travel sites:

Everett Potter's Travel  Report

I consider this the best and savviest blog of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for USA Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler,  and Elle Decor. "I’ve designed this site is for people who take their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to learn about special  places but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the end of the day, it’s not so much about five-star  places as five-star experiences."  THIS WEEK:

Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the author of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday morning as the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3  in Las Vegas.


MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani, Robert Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish, and Brian Freedman. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.


If you wish to subscribe to this newsletter, please click here:

© copyright John Mariani 2020