MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
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IN THIS ISSUE ANNAPOLIS, Part One By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER LE PÉRIGORD By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR TOP-NOTCH SICILIAN WINES NOW AVAILABLE By Geoff Kalish ❖❖❖ ANNAPOLIS, Part One By John Mariani ![]() U.S. Naval Academy Bancroft Hall Dormitory, Annapolis MD
For
a city of only eight square miles—one of them
water—Annapolis has a remarkable mix of the
historic, the quaint, and the majestic. The
first of those may be segmented into Colonial, Revolutionary,
Civil War, and twentieth century periods, one
very different from the other, so that
Annapolis’s architecture is a hodgepodge of
slatted wooden houses (left) and
mansions like the striking Hammond-Harwood
House built in 1774, said to have "the
most beautiful door in America";
![]() There is history at every corner of the city. Annapolis was the nation's first peacetime capital of the new United States after the signing of the Treaty of Paris in 1783, ending the Revolutionary War, and where General George Washington resigned his commission ![]() It is thrilling to visit this exceptional campus--which they call "the Yard"-- to see the Midshipmen in their variously colored uniforms, men and women from every state, race, national background and creed, studying everything from mathematics, science, and liberal arts to the history of war and the strategies of generals going back to Alexander the Great. Their curriculum is in many ways tougher than at even the most prestigious universities, for aside from requirements to pass strenuous physical tests of strength and stamina, the Midshipmen must also maintain high academic standards. Many grads who are commissioned as officers. go into the Navy, some the Marines, others the air forces of those two arms. It is a difficult school to get into and tough to get through. Time off base is restricted. All must live by an honor code. No one pays tuition. ![]() Maryland was a border state and Annapolis was a Union stronghold during the Civil War so it suffered no damage, although 24% of the Naval Academy officers joined the Confederate cause, many serving in the South’s meager navy. As a result, many of the city’s colonial and ante-bellum houses still remain intact, with approved, color-coded plaques next to their doors explaining their role in the city’s history or what famous personage once lived there. Streets retain their 18th century English names—Duke of Gloucester, King George’s, Hanover—and, although the city lost most of its commercial maritime industry to Baltimore by the 1780s, this is still very much a port for recreational boating. Indeed, just a month ago the downtown port was completely renovated at a cost of $6.1 million, with a new seawall and widened boardwalk. The city radiates out from the port, which is ringed with eateries, taverns, antique stores, and boutiques, including an LP record store and an old-fashioned barber shop, and there has always been a vibrant professional and community theater scene within the historic district, including the Colonial Players—its musical staging of “A Christmas Carol” is now an annual event— and the Annapolis Summer Garden presents outdoor productions each year. There is even a small Shakespeare company I managed to visit that was rehearsing Oscar Wilde’s “The Importance of Being Earnest.” ![]() What I love best about the city, which I think of more as a large town, is that it’s so pleasingly walkable. It was not designed on some rigid grid pattern—from the air it looks like a maze—instead retaining centuries’ old narrow streets and corridors, mews and alleyways, some little more than cul-de-sacs, others that were once pathways for driven cattle. The round-abouts at Church Circle and State Circle slow everyone down to a civilized pace, and steepled churches pop out from unexpected places; there is also a memorial to Kunte Kinte, the real-life person who first set his shackled foot in America and was the inspiration for the slave hero of Alex Hailey’s novel Roots. One of the most remarkable of the old mansions is the beautifully restored, five-part Georgian mansion called William Paca House and Garden (right), reclaimed from what was barely a shell of a 19th century entrance to a hotel and named after a signer of the Declaration of Independence. Today its impeccably reconstructed two acre garden grounds now frequently used for weddings and other celebrations. One spot I almost overlooked is the Historic Annapolis Museum Store on Main Street, just across from the City Dock. Inside the solid brick structure is a shop full of souvenirs devoted to local craftspeople, and upstairs is a small but very impressive exhibit entitled “Freedom Bound: ![]() You are never far from such echoes of history while walking the streets of Annapolis, cut into by the blue waters of the Chesapeake Bay, discovered by Giovanni da Verrazano in 1524. The Bay still flows for 200 miles to the Atlantic, that rough ocean so many of the city’s immigrants, many not by choice, once sailed so many centuries ago. The city has a brand new website for travel info: VisitAnnapolis.org.
❖❖❖ NEW
YORK CORNER
By John Mariani ![]() LE PÉRIGORD 405 East 52nd Street (near First Avenue) 212-755-6244 www.leperigord.com
The truth is, those other restaurants—what used to
be called the “Le and La crowd”—closed for various
reasons that range from impossible real estate hikes
(when Le Périgord opened in 1964 its rent was $600 a
month) to the retirement or death of the owners. There is
no question that more modern styles of French
restaurants opened in their wake—Daniel,
Jean-Georges, Le Bernardin—and NYC is still rife
with French bistros like Benoit, Cognac Brasserie
and La Mangeoire, but Le Périgord sails on against
prevailing fashion, and it is as certain that you
will meet owner Georges Briguet today as you would
The word redoubtable seems created to describe
Monsieur Briguet, as affable a Swiss host as you’ll
ever find, ever in a tuxedo and pleated shirt (as
are the captains), smiling broadly and greeting old
and new friends, and always trying to find a way to
make you come back again and again. Joined by
his son, Christopher, Monsieur Briguet now works at
his beloved restaurant simply because he loves it
more than anything in the world, and he gets antsy
when he takes vacations or even days off. Madame
Briguet must be a very understanding woman.
The premises differ
considerably from the dated look of old-line French
restaurants with their scarlet banquettes and
crowded-in tables in a favored front room; instead
the dining room is done in warm tones of gold with
track lights and mirrored columns, with
well-separated tables set with roses, and the
lighting flatters everyone from the front of the
restaurant to the rear and along every wall. There is
a marvelous array of cold hors d’oeuvres (below) as you
enter—from smoked salmon and poached asparagus to
pâtés, terrines, and cold shellfish with mayonnaise
($22)—next to
Le Périgord still maintains a clientele from Sutton
Place and the nearby U.N., and on a recent visit a
number of representatives from Singapore dined
happily at a long table in the main dining room,
while a group from Goldman Sachs was in the rear
party room.
You sit down to find the tablecloth thick, the pats
of butter abundant, the bread made in house, the
wine list full of old vintages whose prices haven’t
changed in years, especially the collection of
Burgundies.
Longtime Chef Joel Benjamin has honed every dish on
the menu to rigid classic standards, so recommending
the Dover sole (below)
à la meunière
($50), or the quenelles of pike in sauce Nantua,
is always a sure bet.
Monsieur Briguet insists with total
justification that Benjamin makes the best lobster
bisque ($12) in the city—not too thick with cream,
carefully passed through a sieve, tasting of nothing
but lobster and the faint smokiness of its roasted
shell.
The foie gras, from D’Artagnan, has
a perfect little rind of yellow fat around it and
glistening cubes of Sauternes gelée ($22). Meaty but
tender sweetbreads are dusted with Moroccan harissa and
sweet Bell pepper ($18), while escargots are served
out of their shell, as a fricassee with hazelnut
butter and wild mushrooms ($18). As many
times as you’ll have rack of lamb in NYC, you’ll
rarely find it so perfectly cooked, so perfectly
fatted, and so generously portioned with a fresh
thyme crust as you will here ($46).
When was the last time you had roast duck ($40), its
skin as crisp as parchment, carved in front of you,
pieces then placed on a warmed plate and drizzled
with an impeccably reduced jus fragrant and sweetened with
orange? This
dish seems to be making a comeback in some quarters
of NYC, but Le Périgord’s version is still far out
ahead.
You must order soufflés ($8) in advance and, whether
chocolate, hazelnut, Grand Marnier, or other, they
will also exhibit how practice makes perfect in the
way they achieve the ideal rise above the rim, the
careful melding of egg whites and flavorings, and
the pour of sauce or ice cream in the steaming
pierced top.
Otherwise you must choose among desserts that
seem to beam at you from their cart—deep dark
chocolate mousse, golden Tarte Tatin, and my
favorite, oeufs
à la neige of
A prix fixe lunch is just $35 (also à la carte), and
dinner, at $75 (with à la carte options, too), runs
far below La Grenouille’s $138.
One more touch that makes Le Périgord unusual: It’s
open on Sundays for dinner, when many families will
assemble for a fine, restful meal and gracious
hospitality.
Monsieur Briguet always seems
to hint that someone might buy Le Périgord, but it’s
difficult to imagine he would ever give up his labor
of love and more difficult still to imagine Le
Périgord without him.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
TOP-NOTCH SICILIAN WINES NOW AVAILABLE By Geoff Kalish ![]()
Discovered
in the United States by more than just the
wine cognoscenti, a number of excellent,
sensibly priced Sicilian reds, whites and
rosés are now widely available across the
country. In fact, while just a few
years ago many restaurant wine lists lumped
bottles from Sicily into a “Southern Italian”
grouping or as “other,” these same eateries
now provide far more than meager
selections of vintages in a separate
“Sicilian” category. And retail shops that
once rarely carried more than a token bottle
of Nero d’Avola, now offer shelves devoted to
selections from the island. To gain
insight into what the market has to offer,
the NYC-based Wine Media Guild recently
held a tasting of more than two dozen of these
wines with lunch. The following are which I
thought were the six best.
WHITE
ROSĖ
With so many too sweet, low-acid rosés (rosati
in Italian) on the market, the 2015 Tasca
d’Almerita Le Rosé di Regaleali Terre
Siciliane ($13) was a welcome find. Made
from 100% Nerello Mascalese grapes, the wine had a
salmon pink color, a fragrant bouquet of ripe
cherries and strawberries, with a fruity taste
that was crisp and dry on the finish. This wine
makes an excellent aperitif, but it also mates
well with salmon or pork. RED
The four standout reds were from totally different
Sicilian locales. The 2014 Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria ($23),
from vineyards outside the town of Vittoria,
showed a bouquet and easy-drinking taste of ripe
plums and apricots, with a long pleasant finish.
This wine goes well with a wide variety of fare
ranging from steak tartare to grilled veal chops
to pasta with red sauce. The 2011 Palari Rosso
del Soprano ($59) hailed from the Messina
area and is a blend of primarily Nerello Mascalese
grapes (60%) and smaller amounts of five other
indigenous varietals. Albeit pricy, the wine is
amazingly Burgundian in style with a bouquet and
taste of plums and spice and a bit more oomph than
many reds from the Côte d’Or but not as
overwhelmingly fruity as a number of California
Pinot Noirs. Try it with grilled beef or lamb.
A 2010 Vivera
Etna Rosso “Martinella” ($40), from the
northest side of Mt. Etna —a blend of 80% Nerello
Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio–-shows the
great aging potential for this category of wine.
It has a bouquet and soft taste of plums and
strawberries interlaced with exotic spices and a
smooth finish with a touch of tannin. Mate this
wine with grilled pork chops, ripe cheeses or rich
pasta Norma. And those
consumers who view Marsala as merely a cooking
wine should try the Florio Targa Riserva Marsala Superiore
Riserva Semisecco ($35 for a 500ml
bottle) for a rich, sweet treat with flavors of
dried figs and apricots and a vibrant acidity in
the finish to enjoy with chocolate or mild
cheeses. ❖❖❖
RISERS Rigatoni
Vegan Donuts
![]() Gluten
Free Cupcakes Rainbow Bagels
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"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
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