MARIANI’S
Virtual Gourmet
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IN THIS ISSUE EATING AROUND ANNAPOLIS, Part One By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER FRANKIE & JOHNNIE'S STEAKHOUSE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR MURRIETA'S WELL By John Mariani ❖❖❖ EATING AROUND ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND By John Mariani ![]() Crab Dishes at Cantler's Riverside
I suspect I am not alone
in being helpless to resist ordering crab in every
form when eating around Annapolis. Even
though the fat Maryland blue crabs—including
softshells—are just now coming into season, the
restaurateurs of Annapolis are able to maintain a
steady supply of the best blue crab from down the
coast and the Gulf of Mexico pretty much year
round. Thus,
did I find myself ordering crab dishes at almost
every meal—including breakfast—while visiting the
historic city set on the Chesapeake. They
certainly weren’t hard to find in profusion, with
eggs, fried, broiled, with hash, in soups, as
cakes, as stuffing, or on their own. Here
are some of the places, all quite casual but with
food far better than you might expect, where
I enjoyed them and much else in Annapolis a month
ago.
Opened in 1998, Galway Bay has
all the trappings of a stereotypical Irish pub
without seeming in the least kitschy. The brick
walls, bare wooden tables and booths, the beer
signs, banjos, fiddles, and Irish whiskies—38 of
them behind a long polished bar—are key to the
genial ambiance, but it’s all a lot cleaner and
kempt than so many rougher versions of the genre. The
owners make a good deal about their being, with no
pun intended, green, which is to say it is the first
restaurant in Maryland to be certified by Maryland
Green Travel. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
You may think you’ve seen
places similar to Chick & Ruth’s, but you’ve
never met anyone like owner Ted Levitt, who can
build, dis-assemble, weld, wire, fit, anchor, brick
up, light up, and do anything and everything to keep
his magnificent folly going after 50 years. Proudly
patriotic—everyone stands up to recite the “Pledge
of Allegiance” at 8:30 a.m. (below) Open daily for breakfast,
lunch and dinner.
In terms of sheer enthusiasm
and customer care, Dick Franyo, owner of the
immensely popular Boatyard Bar & Grill, would go
arm and arm with Ted Levitt as exponents of
Annapolis hospitality. The whole atmosphere, which
does indeed resemble a boatyard clubhouse with its
flags, marine art and varnished wood, draws you
right in, sits you right down and makes you hungrier
than you were just a minute ago. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner
daily. Dinner Under the Stars – Reminiscent
of the open air cafes in Paris and the piazzas of
Rome and Venice, al fresco dining ❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
By John Mariani Photos by Noak Fecks
The New York steakhouse
long ago set the standard for the rest of
America—along about the time that Prohibition
forced a lot of restaurants out of business and
sparked an explosion of speakeasies where food
was the last thing on patrons’ minds. But
along the way, customers began clamoring for
something to eat and the New York
steakhouse—largely owned by Italians—began
serving up steaks and chops, and maybe a Open for lunch and dinner daily.
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
❖❖❖MURRIETA'S
WELL AIMS FOR TERROIR EXPRESSION,
NOT HIGH RATINGS POINTS By John Mariani ![]()
Despite what many
passionate winemakers will tell you about the
excitement of what they do, the hard facts are
that the science and making of wine is largely
agricultural and biological. It’s
just
that Idaho potatoes and New Jersey tomatoes
haven’t quite the romantic associations that a
Napa Valley Cabernet
Fortunately, as in all interviews, it is
the contrarians of the industry who are the most
fun and the most revealing about modern
viniculture in California, where far too many
wines are indeed manufactured back at the winery
lab to taste a certain way and to win awards
according to the preferences of the wine media.
“If I were asked by a winery to make
96-point [on a scale of 100] wine, I’d just walk
away,” said Robbie Meyer (right), 45,
since 2015 winemaker at Murrieta’s Well winery
in the Livermore Valley in an interiew in NYC.
“The people who ask for such a thing know
nothing about wine.”
Holding such an opinion flies in the face
of many wineries, often owned by Silicon Valley
millionaires or Wall Street billionaires who
want nothing more from their investment than to
win high points or “Wine of the Year” from
publications like Wine
Spectator and The Wine
Advocate.
Instead, Meyer focuses on small lot
harvesting and blending based on the soil and
micro-climate of the acreage,
Murrieta’s Well is owned by the much
larger Wente Family Estates, which has
Meyer works with 20
different grape varieties from 500 acres with
three soil profiles ranging from 560 feet to 860
feet elevations; he plants root stocks according
to the soil composition, which will affect
flavors. Livermore
Valley, for instance, has very gravelly coarse
sandy loam, while at Pleasonton the gravel is
very fine, and Las Positas has a grass pasture.
Still, Murrieta's Well wines sell at
modest prices by comparison with other
well-known California small estate labels. Its
white blend, called The Whip, sells for about
$24 and has a wonderful aromatic bouquet that
comes from orange Muscat, Semillon, chardonnay
and sauvignon blanc, to give it an acidic edge
that makes it very food friendly. The
red blend, The Spur, at about $30, is made from
Petite Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Malbec, and Cabernet Franc, which provide
several layers of fruit and tannin.
ANNALS OF CRUSADING JOURNALISM After 21 years on the job and 1,100
cartoons, editorial cartoonist Rick Friday of
Iowa's small-circulation Farm News and nearly 1,100
cartoons, the longtime editorial cartoonist was
fired for drawing a critical cartoon noting farmers'
shrinking profits within the context of huge salaries
paid to the CEOs of DuPont Pioneer, John Deere, and
Monsanto, leading to one company's canceling ads with
the paper. ❖❖❖
Benventuo
Brunello 2016: First Taste of Castello Banfi By John
Fodera, Tuscan
Vines
Overview - Vintage 2011 Tasting Notes: Castello
Banfi 2014
Rosso di Montalcino Poggio Alle Mura -- Contains lots
of declassified Brunello from this vineyard and it is
impressive. I
enjoyed a glass of this with lunch immediately
following the seminar and this was juicy, fresh and
delicious with penne pasta with sausage, and vegetable
panini. Lots
of bright berry flavors accented with spice, vanilla,
and a hint of olive.
The best 2014 rosso I tasted that day. 88-90
points. 2011
Brunello --This deep ruby wine displays pretty floral
notes, with warmed clay and lots of bright berry
character. The acidity is fresh and lifting and
there's some fresh red licorice on the finish. Solid
effort. 90-92
points. 2010
Poggio Alle Mura Brunello Riserva--Only 1,000 cases of
this select Riserva are produced from vineyards just
outside the Castello walls. Deep ruby with lots of
flowers, toast, spice, meat and berry character. Polished
and elegant, there's lots of power here. Not yet
released. 95-98
points. 2010
Brunello Riserva Poggio All'Oro--Single vineyard
Riserva and simply one of the best wines from Brunello
each year that it's made, which has been only 11 times
since 1985. This
is deep ruby in the glass with only a slight fade to
brick at the edge of the bowl. A bit shy
on the nose initially, the aromas blossomed
considerably with more air time. Huge berry and cherry
aromas and flavors dominate with sweet pipe tobacco,
spices and chestnut joining in. Lots of
structure, lots of acid, lots of tannins. Elegance
and power combined, this will cellar and develop well
for a decade or more.
Lots of fennel emerges on the finish. Love it! 97-100
points.
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FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
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Gourmet is linked to four excellent
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Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
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"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
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NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Editor/Publisher: John
Mariani.
Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,
Robert Mariani, Misha
Mariani,
John A. Curtas, Edward Brivio, Mort Hochstein,
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Photographers: Galina Dargery, Bobby
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