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Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() "Oyster Shuckers, Rockpoint, Maryland" (1936) by Arthur Rothstein
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IN THIS ISSUE A PERFECT RESTAURANT By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER VICTOR'S CAFÉ By John Mariani CAPONE'S GOLD CHAPTER 23 By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR SUSTAINABILITY NOW THE RULE IN WINEMAKING By John Mariani ❖❖❖ On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. Sept.
8 at 11AM EDT,I will be
interviewing actor/writer CHAZZ
![]() ![]() ❖❖❖ A PERFECT RESTAURANT By John Mariani ![]()
Well, of course, there’s no such thing
as a perfect restaurant that everyone would
agree on. And having dined out around the world
all my life, I’ve only found a handful that
would meet all my criteria, which I’ll tell you
about at the end of this article. But those few
have shown me that such perfection is actually
achievable through a great deal of effort driven
by an owner and/or chef’s dedication to that
ideal. So, let’s run down my list of what
constitutes a perfect restaurant, but note well:
these are obviously criteria for higher-end
restaurants, which would not apply to lower-end
eateries with wonderful food but fall short in
the ways fine dining restaurants excel.
• Décor—The last thing I expect is the kind of old-fashioned French kitsch that looks like the set of a Hollywood musical about Marie Antoinette. Modern décor offers so many beautiful options for a restaurateur to choose from, so that an haute cuisine restaurant in Paris might very well be a model of modernism. It is in the use of materials and interior design that expresses the style and essence of a good restaurant, not the gilding on its sconces or the tassels on its menu. ![]() • Noise Level—The bane of contemporary restaurants, especially in the U.S., is a dining room whose decibel level of 90+ is the same as having a lawnmower go through it. In fact, many restaurateurs are under the delusion that noise, with added piped-in music, creates excitement, when all it does is to encourage more noise, impossible conversation and intense stress. Sonically speaking, 65 decibels is considered to be “normal conversation,” which sounds just fine to me. ![]() • Napery, silverware, glassware—Whatever is put on the table should reflect the same style and class of what surrounds it, so there should be some sort of amenable and appealing table covering (bare tables has become the rule these days out of a desire to cut costs). The silverware need not be Cristofle or Laguiole, but it should not be cheap diner-class either. Excellent, thin glassware these days is extremely inexpensive and, even cheaper for restaurants buying in bulk, because of imports from Eastern Europe, so that it is wholly unacceptable to have wineglasses with thick stems and lips on the rims. • Wine list—I am much happier with a moderate-size, well selected wine list than a phone book (are there still such things?) of trophy wines with sixteen California Merlots and ten vintages of a duxième cru Bordeaux. And I see little reason for an Italian restaurant to stock Australian Sauvignon Blancs or Greek restaurants to cellar South African carménères. Give me a list geared to the menu and have a beverage director who is helpful rather than pushy. A good sommelier should ask if you wish to have the bottle left on the table so you can pour it at will. Ice buckets should be set within reach. Decanting need only be done for older wines known to throw off sediment. ![]() • Temperature of food—In many restaurants this is a balancing act in the kitchen, but it is and should be the aim of a good kitchen to have all dishes come out at the right temperature. The silly days of chilling a salad plate and fork are gone but a heated (not scalding) plate for hot dishes is absolutely essential. Presenting a steak or fish on a “sizzling platter” further cooks the food beyond the interior temperature it should be and juices begin to coagulate. • Shelling and boning—Boning a whole fish, if so presented, is not the toughest task in the world for anyone to master, ![]() ![]() • Decoration on the plate and garnishes—Extravagance on plates went out a century ago and only came back under the assault of the modernist chefs who believe their best friend in the kitchen is a pair of tweezers with which they spend five minutes gussying up a dish. Anything that is not to be eaten should be left off the plate. • Soup and Cheese—Granted, not that many people order ![]() • A simple menu—Almost always less is more on a menu, unless it’s at Cheesecake Factory. Indeed, a lengthy menu confuses and confounds guests, especially if the captain or waiter insists on describing every dish already described on the menu. And who cares what a waiter’s “favorite” is? No one really wants to have to choose from a menu with 16 appetizers, six salads, 12 pastas, ten meat dishes and ten seafood options. A carefully crafted menu focuses on what the chef does best and what he believes will showcase his real talents. So, where have I had perfect dinners and can pretty much guarantee you will, too? ![]() Dal Pescatore, Canneto sull’Oglio, Italy. ![]() Don Alfonso,
Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, Italy.
![]() Epicure, Paris. ![]() Pavillon,
Zurich.
![]() Restaurante Palacio Cibeles, Madrid ![]() Le Bernardin, New York, NY. ![]() Il Gattopardo, New York, NY. Porter House,
New York, NY.
![]() ![]() Tony’s, Houston, TX. ![]() Rasika,
Washington DC.
![]() Saneh Jaan, Bangkok. ![]() The Ritz Dining
Room, London.
❖❖❖ NEW YORK
CORNER
VICTOR’S CAFÉ 236
West 52nd Street ![]() By John Mariani Before Victor’s Café opened in 1963,
Cuban cooks worked in restaurants that sold
themselves as Spanish while lending a good deal
more spice and seasoning to the food. Victor del
Corral and his wife, Eloina Ruiz de Ugarrio (left),
There are more than a dozen appetizers at
Victor’s, and you can get a good sampling of
several of them by ordering the “1492 Aperitivo
Cubano” for two ($32). Or you can order individual
apps à la carte, such as a brisk ceviche of
Florida red snapper (below) with a citrus
marinade, red onion, mango and avocado ($17); a
“Havana guac” of avocado, tomato, cilantro,
onions, lime, tropical If you have
found Cuban food working-man heavy in the past, be
aware that Victor’s Café uses no lard in the
cooking, substituting lighter olive oil. Thus, the
specialty of ropa vieja
($32) is slowly braised, shredded skirt steak in
an aromatic, rich but not heavy garlic, tomato,
onion and pepper sauce, while pan-fried shredded vaca frita
is skirt steak with red onions and a tangy-sweet
Seville orange and garlicky mojo. One
of the best dishes is the lechon asado
of 24-hour marinated roast pig cooked
in Cuban-style mojo with
plenty of garlic, yucca and moros black
beans ($32). It arrives with crackling crisp skin
and buttery flesh beneath. All main courses come
with rice and black beans, but I also urge you to
try one of the rice dishes like the arroz con
pollo à la chorrera ($26) in a casserole (left),
which easily serves four as a side dish or two as
a main.
There are five seafood dishes, though oddly
two
Victor’s Café is, as noted, smack in the
theater district and, while they do not have a
specific pre-theater menu, the place is always
hopping by 5:30, and it’s a good place to come for
a drink after theater at that lounge. I am so glad to
see Victors Café back open and definitely in the
swing of things. It may be a radical departure
from the kind of restaurants you find in Havana
these days (which Cubans cannot eat at), but there
is definitely a New York swagger to Victor’s Café
that makes it all the more sexy and appealing. Victor’s Café is open for dinner
Wed.-Sat. ❖❖❖
CAPONE’S
GOLD
CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE
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© John Mariani, 2015 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SUSTAINABILITY NOW THE RULE IN WINEMAKING by John Mariani ![]()
It is difficult to understand how
farmers and fishermen so often put immediate
gains over long-term plans to keep their
industries going. Farmers deplete the minerals
in their farms’ soil and go for optimal volume
over taste, while fisherman collect every
lobster and all the tuna they can find, knowing
the supply is not unlimited. In the world of
viticulture, however, sustainability has become
far more the rule than the exception and
concerns over the myriad changes global warming
can cause in a vineyard, from water to insects,
are driving major investments to blunt their
oncoming force. Here are some international
wineries in the forefront of the battle.
The Las
Brisas Vineyard in Napa
Carneros is perfect for cool-climate wines, with
daily fog lying on the terroir until noon. Its
2018 Riesling ($38) is rare among this California
varietal for its equilibrium of flavor, acid and
spiciness, closer to an Alsatian style. The
company’s mantra is that “In our vineyards,
cellars and offices, Carneros Wine Company |
Mahoney Vineyards focuses on stewardship of the
lands that provide for us. From the energy
efficient tractors and owl boxes in our vineyards,
to the solar arrays and recycle programs in our
offices, we try to minimize our carbon footprint
whenever and wherever we can. In fact, because we
are in the agriculture business, our goal is to
produce less CO2 than our vineyards offset.” FEL vineyards
in Anderson Valley, California, uses every modern
technique to combat climate change, including
natural compost and organic fertilizer; cover
cropping; conversion to no tillage; mechanical
weed control; a riparian habitat for wildlife
corridors and aquatic habitats; deficit
irrigation; and integrated pest management. The
2020 FEL Anderson Valley Pinot Gris ($28) comes
from the Hein Vineyard, Anderson Valley’s
so-called "Deep
End,” whose nearness to the Pacific Ocean cools
things down and allows the grapes to develop
without getting overripe, so you have a Pinot Gris
with more body and pear flavors than the bland
examples that come from France and Italy. Even Lambrusco is gaining
by careful tending of the vineyards in
Emilia-Romagna, with Venturini
Baldini’s Cadelvento organic Lambrusco
Spumante DOP ($21.99) brut rosato a
real step forward for a wine too often associated
with plonk like Reunite while still maintaining
the forward fruit of the indigenous grape. Its
dryness and sparkle also make it a good match for
shellfish, and, of course, by tradition with the
rich pasta dishes of the region. They also make a
Lambrusco Emilia IGP Semi Sec ($16.99) from 100%
Lambrusco Salamino that is quite aromatic and
ideal as an apéritif to drink with antipasti.
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❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. ![]() WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
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Gourmet is linked to four excellent
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Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
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"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
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