IN THIS ISSUE
JAMES BOND'S TASTES IN FOOD
AND WINE
CASINO ROYALE By
John Mariani
NEW YORK CORNER
SERGIO'S SAW PIT
By John Mariani
CAPONE'S GOLD
CHAPTER 34
By John Mariani
NOTES
FROM THE WINE CELLAR
CRU BEAUJOLAIS MAY BE THE
PERFECT WINE FOR THANKSGIVING
By Geoff Kalish
❖❖❖
On this week's
episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost
Golden," on Wed. November
24 at 11AM EST,I will be
interviewing Laurence Mansion on the
subject of BROADWAY MUSICALS OF THE
1950S. Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖
JAMES BOND'S TASTES
IN FOOD AND WINE
Casino Royale
By John Mariani
In this series on “James Bond’s
Tastes,” I
decided it best to treat the books and
movies sequentially. The first Ian
Fleming novel was Casino Royale in
1953, but the first movie, Dr. No, debuted
in 1961, based on the third novel
(1958). So, I thought the book plus the
movie made from it should come first.
To begin:
CASINO ROYALE
James Bond’s taste for the very
good life shows itself early in the Ian
Fleming novels. In the first, Casino
Royale(1953)—in which Bond is,
ironically, considering
retirement from MI6—the secret agent is off to the
Hôtel Splendide in
Royale-les-Eaux, a fictional town and spa
that Fleming wholly invented, to play baccarat
against
a SPECTRE agent named Le Chiffre. Bond’s
superior, the unflappable M, also sends
along MI6’s head of the Russian bureau, a woman
named Vesper Lynd. Upon arriving at the Hermitage Bar,
007 orders an Americano (left), made
with Campari, sweet vermouth and Perrier soda, a
cocktail said to have been created in the 1860s at
Gaspare Campari’s café in
Milan.Vesper
drinks Bacardi rum. The next day Bond enjoys an indulgent lunch
in his room of creamy foie
gras, cold langouste and toast, with whiskey on
ice. Thatnight
at the casino, the first mention of
what would become Bond’s famous signature martini
appears. He stipulates three
parts Gordon’s gin, one part vodka, one part Kina
Lillet and half a part dry
vermouth with a slice of lemon, in “a deep
goblet.” Bond explains to his CIA colleague Felix
Leiter, part of the team, that
he never has more than one drink before dinner,
“but I do like that to be large
and very strong and very cold and very well-made .
. .I’m
going to patent it when I can think of a
good name.” Bond then struts a touch of snobbism
by telling the barman the
drink would be even better “if you can get a vodka
made with grain instead of
potatoes,” suggesting that he’d been served
Hungarian vodka made from potatoes
rather than Russian made from wheat. He does
specify it be “shaken very well
until it’s ice-cold.” A bit later he asks Vesper if he can
“borrow” her name for this new
Martini, which
he thereupon christens the “Vesper.” (In an
excellent article in
The
Spectator, barman Alessandro
Palazzi of Duke’s Bar in London suggests that 007
combines gin and vodka and
names it after Vesper because Fleming is hinting
that she is a Russian double
agent. The couple goes on to dine at the hotel’s Roi
Galant nightclub, where
they share caviar. Bond orders a grilled veal
kidney (left) with pommes soufflé, an
avocado salad and for dessert wild strawberries. Vesper has tournedos ofbeef
with Béarnaise sauce. Bond orders his
favorite Champagne, Taittinger Blanc des Blanc
Brut ‘45, but, when the
sommelier suggests the ‘43 is “without equal,”
Bond acquiesces. The veddy
British Bond knows he can lord it over the
American Leiter
with what Fleming calls, “a touch of pretension.”
Bond tells him, “You must
forgive me. I take a ridiculous pleasure in what I
eat and drink. It comes
partly from being a bachelor, but mostly from a
habit of taking a lot of
trouble over details. It’s very persnickety and
old maidish really, but then
when I’m working I generally have to eat my meals
alone and it makes them more
interesting when one takes trouble.” Casino
Royale was not the
basis for the first Bond movie, Dr. No,
but, when the former was made
in 1967 it was as a farcical
comedy spoof on what had become an enormously
popular spy genre that included
movies like Our
Man Flint, Funeral in
Berlin, Charade and TV shows like The
Man from
U.N.C.L.E.The
rights to the first Fleming
novel had somehow escaped Dr. No
producer Cubby Broccoli’s grasp, so Casino
Royale was made by another studio and directed
with abandon by John
Huston, with David Niven, Peter Sellers and Woody
Allen all playing variants of
007. The aging Niven character (left),
retired from the espionage world, is content
fastidiously making tea, though he later comes
back into service and manages to
outdrink a clan of Scotsmen with their own Scotch.
Forty years later,
under the Broccoli family’s
aegis,Casino Royale
was made
again, this time hewing fairly closely to the 1953
Fleming novel, although for some reason the casino
is in Montenegro. Bond, just
starting his 007 career and now played by a
gruffer, scowling Daniel Craig, is,
as Vesper Lynd (Eva Green) tells him,
in need of grooming and a surer degree of
sophistication—and better tuxedo—for a British
agent. After 75 years of Bond ordering his vodka
Martini (he dropped the gin
from the recipe early on) “shaken not stirred,”
the latest Bond does something
that seems amiss (though Craig thought it was a
very funny touch). When Bond
enters the casino he is asked by a bartender if he
wants his martini shaken or
stirred, Bond snarkily replies, “Do I look like I
give a damn?" Yet, when
Bond goes to the bar, he specifically orders one
shaken not stirred, describing
its
makeup nearly verbatim from the original Fleming
novel, saying, “That’s not
half bad. I'll have to give it a name.”
Unfortunately, 007 lets his guard drop
when he has another Martini delivered to him at
the gaming table. A gorgeous
henchwoman named Valenka slipped him a Mickey ofdigitalis
(left), causing the naïve secret agent to
go into cardiac arrest
and almost die, before giving his heart a
self-administered electric shock. Cute trick. Prior to his arrival in Montenegro, Bond
takes a villa (No. 1085, below) at the
Ocean Club
in Nassau, the Bahamas
(which still can be requested and rented), where
he drinks Champagne with his
adversary’s wife, Solange. He also drinks Mount
Gay rum and soda at the club’s
bar, named The Library. When he gets to Montenegro
he checks into what is
called the Hotel Splendide (as in the Fleming
novel), but the film’s producers
used the Grand
Hotel Pupp as the
location.
Later,
after going through a torture
session
at the hands ofLe Chiffre, Bond
escapes and meets Vesper at the Hotel
Cipriani in Venice (left) and
enjoys a bottle of Bollinger with her. Afterwards,
contrary to the book’s ending, Bond manages to
survive the collapse of what
looks like half of Venice. (In the novel, still at
Royale, Vesper reveals
herself as a double agent for the Russians and,
pursued by them, commits
suicide.)
❖❖❖
NEW
YORK CORNER
SERGIO'S
SAW PIT
25 South Regent Street
Port Chester, NY
914-881-3220
Description
By
John Mariani
Way
back in 1958 a restaurant with the unappetizing
name Saw Pit opened
in this Port Chester location (one hour from
Manhattan) with the kind of
continental menu that epitomized “suburban
restaurants” by its bland food,
frozen vegetables and rice pudding, and a décor
that was no décor at all beyond
beige walls and an acoustical ceiling. Mediocre
as it was, Saw Pit had a very
faithful clientele and kept going well into the
1990s. After closing, it became
a series of Italian restaurants, each with
modern décor and fine cooking, but
none succeeded in capturing an audience until
this past February, when Sergio Gashi opened
his namesake restaurant that
retains the Saw Pit name. Now, every
night of the week, people are packed into rooms
that seat
more than 250 people, including a handsome wine
room for parties, with plenty
of bustle at the well-lighted bar. The success
that eluded previous occupants
of this space that it now enjoys has largely to do
with the enormous emphasis
on service that Sergio puts into effect. It’s the
simplest of lessons, really:
Treat people with cordial respect and attention
and they will always come back.
Give them real value for their money, and they’ll
become regulars. There is a buoyant gaiety about the place,
with an inviting, glittering
design that extends to a room where the desserts
are made by two of Sergio’s
sons, Ardiand
Fisler.(And,
if at all possible,
that’s where you should request a table in
advance, because the main dining
room is very noisy at peak capacity.) Sergio is
one of those immigrants—in his case, Croatian—who
has lived
out and revels in the American dream, now, with
his two other sons, owning
restaurants in Pelham (Sergio’s) and Scarsdale
(Tutta Bella). Aside from the
first-rate food at his newest place, under the
formidably efficient control of
chef Ricky Milici, Sergio has a canny ability to
make everyone feel not just at
home but quite special. He darts from table to
table, oversees a rigorously
trained, amiable staff, and, somehow, gets the
food and drinks out of the
kitchen on weekend nights when they may do 500
dinners. Details mean a great deal here. The moment
you sit down to a well-set
table with thick linens and thin wineglasses, a
full bread basket is presented
and drink orders taken; within minutes your
cocktails or wines will be
delivered. Then, compliments of the house, a
platter of Italian
cheeses. Your
food comes on heated plates, wine is poured
whenever your glass empties,
leftovers are packed up to go and waiting for you
at evening’s end. And
everyone takes food home. One of the delights of the
Italian-steakhouse menu is a well-wrought mozzarella in
carozza (left), a sandwich of
fresh mozzarella and thin bread slices that is
egg-battered and sautéed and served
with either anchovy or marinara sauce ($14). So
often this item is a greasy,
mushy mess, but here it has a crisp exterior so
that the cheese melts just
enough and is enhanced by the sauce. One dish you
won’t find readily anywhere
else is the Danish lobster tail sautéed with Grand
Marnier orange liqueur and
served over baked Brie crusted with almonds ($20).
Unbelievably rich, but
certainly a good starter for two people. There are soups and
abundant salads, including a much improved Saw Pit
Salad of Boston and mixed lettuce with pear, blue
cheese and Vidalia onion in a
walnut vinaigrette dressing ($14). Pastas number a
dozen, from housemade potato
gnocchi in a light tomato sauce with a dressing of
cream ricotta ($24), and a
lusty cavatelli
with broccoli di
rabe, cannellini beans, sausage, olive oil and
garlic ($24) to bucatini alla
amatriciana, a truly
classic Roman dish with a tomato and guanciale
sauce ($24).Rigatoni all bolognese ($24) will
satisfy any trencherman with its
meaty vegetable sauce (right).There
are also
two risottos, one with spinach and
lobster ($28) and one with porcini mushrooms
and truffle oil ($26). The outstanding seafood dish is the sea
scallops sauteéd and lavished with a cream truffle
sauce ($18). Pollo rustico
($26) is a very good chicken dish with
an abundance of sausage, peppers, mushrooms and
onion in a sweet-sour balsamic
sauce, and if you were in the mood for a perfectly
charbroiled shell steak (left), it
comes with sautéed mushrooms, roasted potatoes and
vegetables ($42). The pork
chop isdouble
cut, topped with tender
sliced potatoes, onions and hot and sweet peppers
($34). And the baby
rack of
lamb is just that, with six chops, sautéed
mushrooms, vegetables and mashed
potatoes. I do wish the lamb had been American
rather than New Zealand, but the
price would be considerably higher. You could leave without having dessert, but
you wouldn’t want to miss
the Napoleon (right) showered with sliced
almonds ($10) or the sumptuous tiramisù
($10). Sergio’s wine list is strong, especially in
Italian bottlings, and the
prices are moderate by comparison to some other
steakhouses in Westchester and
Connecticut. I am
perhaps the least jaded restaurant critic I know,
ever eager for an
exciting new kind of cuisine but always ready for
food that is classic, homey
and prepared with integrity. Sergio’s Saw Pit, by
whatever name, is just that
kind of place, and I can foresee a run as long as
the original’s, only with far
superior food and service.
One
caveat: The valet parking lot fills up fast by
seven o’clock and there may be a
wait to get in, but once through the door all is
well.
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
Note: Westchester
County, NY, has no regulations regarding vaccine
mandates in restaurants but at Sergio's Saw
Pit all staff have been vaccinated.
❖❖❖
CAPONE’S
GOLD
By John Mariani
To read all chapters of
Capone's Gold beginning April 4, 2021 go
to thearchive
CHAPTER THIRTY-FOUR
They
had dinner on the terrace of a restaurant
named Baleen (above) overlooking the Bay ofNapleson a night
when a yellow three-quarter moon was cutting
through the clouds that passed
over its face.There were sounds of a
trio of musicians playing Neapolitan songs
in the piazza below.By
the time Katie and David had finished
their meal they had already heard “O Sole
Mio!” three times. Each
had mixed emotions about everything that had
occurred up to that moment.The
evening was so beautiful, the food and
wine superb—simply
grilled shellfish with a
rose-colored Abruzzese wine called Cerasuolo—but
the thought of leaving Naples gave them
something of the feeling their own ancestors
must have had when leaving the
city to sail to a new country, most deeply
saddened by the thought they might
never see their homeland again. When
the trio played the most famous of all
Neapolitan songs, Torna a Surriento—“Come Back to
Sorrento”—Katie translated for
David,a
love song to the beauty of
Southern Italy, gardens scented with the aroma
of oranges and mermaids who
“love you so much” and “want to kiss you.” David
thought this was one of the most
wonderful and saddest days of his life. “You
sing very beautifully,” he said. “Doesn’t
every Neapolitan?” she asked. “Not
this one,” he said, pointing to himself. “So,
David, what do we do now?” “I’m
not at all sure.Can we afford to go any
further, without any more leads?” “Well,
give us credit for finding out all that we have.I
think I have a good story already, even if
we don’t find any more gold.” “Your
editor will go for that?” Katie
sighed. “I really don’t know. I think so. But it
isn’t enough for the reward.” David
took a sip of wine and refilled their glasses. “You
got that right. For one thing, the feds will
never admit to what Primerano told
us about the Genovese connection, and for
another, all along they knew there
was only one-third of the
gold still missing all these years.That’s all their interest amounts to by
now.Let’s
face it, it’s a burnt-out,
fifty-year-old case, and they’re probably not
expecting anyone to find the
remaining gold.” Then
David slammed his hand on the table and said, “I
just wish the hell Frank
English had stopped us from going on this wild
goose chase.” “I
would
like to know why he did that.
You going to speak with him tomorrow?” “Oh,
yeah.I’m
going ream his ass.Maybe
we should go into print on what we
know, embarrass the hell out of him.” Katie
said, “Well, David, be fair, this wasn’t a case
he himself ever worked on.
Everything happened long before he was ever in
the F.B.I.And another problem is that,
without his confirming what we got from
Primerano and Lucadamo, I’m not going
to have a story.A reporter always needs
at least two sources for every claim or
assertion.” David
laughed and said, “You can imagine how we cops
feel about getting as many
sources as possible in an investigation before
we make an arrest.The tape recordings are only one part of
it.
Judges have a much higher standard than the New
York newspapers. I had
recordings tossed out in court, even though we’d
had warrants to make them.” “Well,
then, it looks like we have two alternatives:
You call English and demand an
explanation we can use or we get other sources
to corroborate the story.” “There is a
third alternative,” said David.
“We keep looking for the gold.As a
matter of fact, I’m beginning to think the third
part of the gold might never
have left America.” Katie
was very surprised by what David said. “Why now,
after all we’ve gone through,
would you believe that?” she asked. “We’ve
always operated on the assumption
that it was too risky for Capone to have the
gold lying around somewhere
someone could get to it, especially with the
reward out there.” David
shook his head. “I guess you’re right.I
was just thinking about those gold place
settings he had for his house in
Miami. He obviously melted down some of the gold
for that.” “Yeah,
but
that would have been very little gold compared
to what was missing.What,
an ingot or two? Plus, if he did
stash a good amount of the gold
somewhere, it certainly never filtered down to
his family.He and his family were close to broke by
the
time he died.” “You’re
right.And
he could never have sold the
gold within the United States.Nobody
would buy it because it was illegal to own it.Y’know, I wonder if Capone had any idea
what happened to the gold that
went to Italy, or if he knew the feds had
actually gotten a lot of it back,
thanks to Vito Genovese.I’ll
have to
ask English about that tomorrow.” “So,
what do you think about seeing that guy
Iacobello—Frankie `Switch?’You
think he really knows something?” “I
have no idea,” said David, “but there’s no harm
in trying.I’ll give him a call tomorrow after I
speak
to English.God, I am so
pissed off about him!” “Well,
let’s just finish this lovely wine and look at
the moon and have a nice
night.In
the words of the great Italian
diva Scarlatta O’Hara, ‘Domani è un
altro
giorno!’”
***
The
next afternoon at two o’clock—five hours ahead
of Washington time—David was on
the phone to Frank English. “You
bastard!” said David. “Who
the hell is this?” answered English, picking up
a pen and hitting a RECORD
button. “Your
former colleague David Greco, the guy you let go
on a wild goose chase all the
way to Italy to find out what you could have
goddamn told me weeks ago.” “And
that was . . . what?” “Don’t
screw with me,Frank.You know damn well what.All
the time we talked you knew that a lot of
the Capone gold was brought back from Italy and
you knew how that
happened.Does
Vito Genovese ring a
bell, you sonofabitch?” “Hey,
David, calm down,” said English, clicking off
the recording of the
conversation.“You know the rules about
the company secrets. I wasn’t at liberty to tell
you anything.I should not even have told you about
where
to find Cuoco, but I let it go.” “Oh,
come on,Frank,
you didn’t have to play
that stupid game about Cuoco.You
could
have at least told me that I was wasting my time
going to Italy to look for the
gold.The
feds had it all this time.” “David,
for starters, I was never involved in any of
that.It
all happened way before both
our times.But it’s still considered secret
information
and my hands were tied.” “All
you had to do was to tell me I didn’t need to
fly to fucking Italy.Maybe
you didn’t have anything to do with all
the shit that went down forty-something years
ago, but you’re still covering
for the Federal Reserve, the I.R.S. and the
F.B.I.I
mean, let’s face it, Frank, we both know that
we all have to work with the bad guys sometimes.
I remember all the shit that
happened between the C.I.A. and the Mafia to
take out Castro.” “Call
me whatever you want, David, but don’t try to
associate me with the C.I.A. And,
by the way, back in 1947, or whenever it was,
the C.I.A. didn’t even exist
yet.” Oddly,
that seemed to soften David’s tone a little, for
he did understand that various
intelligence agencies rarely shared secret
information with each other.And he
realized that he hadn’t shared with
English the information about the gold going
down on the rumrunner. “Well,
tell me one goddamn thing, Frank,” said David.
“Why do you guys keep dangling
that reward money out there?I have
to
guess it’s because you don’t want anyone finding
out you got back the gold
through Genovese and his friends in the U.S.
Army.” “David,
believe what you want but I can’t confirm
anything like that. I had nothing to
do with it, nobody living around here did, and
they probably just keep the
reward out there thinking no one’s going to even
bother to look for the
gold.That
is until you came along.” “Well,
I’ve got another theory.Besides
you
guys trying to protect your own federal ass, I
also know that you know you
didn’t get back all of what Capone stole.” “I’d
heard that,” said English. “Well,
it’s true.Confirmed by the Italian
police. There’s still two-thirds missing.” David
wanted so much to tell English about the
rumrunner disaster but let him wonder
instead. “So
you still think you can find the rest of the
gold?” asked English. “If
I do, you’ll be the first to know.G’bye, Frank.” Katie
had been standing there listening to David’s
side of the phone call. “Feel
better?” she asked. “Not
much. But, what the hell, he’s right. It is a
very old case and he doesn’t even
know as much as we do. He probably couldn’t care
less about the damn gold,
although if we find it, he may be the one to
write the check.”That actually made David smile. “So
what’re we going to do now?” asked Katie. “My
next call is to Frankie Switch. Who knows,
probably turn up nothing. Worth a
try.” David
dialed the phone number he’d been given by
Officer Frascella. “Pronto?”
said a voice on the other end
of the line. “Signore
Iacobello, this is David
Greco.I
used to be a detective in New
York, and I was told by Officer John Frascella
out of Chicago you might have
some information that might help me out. About
the Al Capone gold heist.” The
phone was silent for a few moments. David could
hear a voice muffled by a hand
over the receiver. “When
do you want to meet?” asked Iacobello, who had a
thick accent. “Any
time it’s convenient for you. Today possible?” “Okay,
I’ll meet you at six o’clock tonight.” “At
your apartment? I have this address—” “No,
no. I’ll meet you on my boat in the marina. It’s
quite nice this time of year
down there, and no one will be around to hear
our conversation.” David
realized that Iacobello would be understandably
suspicious after years of being
left alone by the Italian police. Out of
the blue comes an ex-New York cop who wants to
get information, so it was not
unreasonable to want to meet where no one would
be prying. Iacobello
gave them the number of the dock and the name of
the boat. “Six
o’clock,” he said. “Do not be
late.” David
turned to Katie and said, “Okay, we have a date
with Frankie Snitch.” “I
suppose we should just keep to surnames?” asked
Katie, kidding. “Probably
a good idea. Wear something waterproof.” “Huh?” “Looks
like we’re going to sail around the Bay of
Naples.”
CRU
BEAUJOLAIS MAY BE THE
PERFECT WINE FOR THANKSGIVING
By Geoff Kalish
For many Americans Beaujolais means
inexpensive, bubble gum and banana scented, ripe
cherry flavored wine, released
about 3 months after harvest (in the third week of
November) and best served
slightly chilled. This wine, which reached great
popularity in the late 1980s
and early 1990s, was meant to be served from
Thanksgiving until New Year’s Eve.
Now, however, as palates have become more
sophisticated, sales of this fruit
punch-like novelty quaff have dwindled. But,
consumers have not totally abandoned
red wines from the Beaujolais area and have
discovered Cru
Beaujolais—food-friendly red wines from the 10
different regions within the
Beaujolais area—made from the same grape (gamay)
but by methods different from
Nouveaux and released many months, or even years,
after vinification.
And for
knowledgeable consumers, as well as
those not very familiar with these wines, I offer
the following selections
(from a series of recent tastings) all perfect to
accompany the many flavors of
the traditional Thanksgiving dinner as well as
other seasonal fare.
2019
Château Thivin “La Chapelle” Côtes
de Brouily
($36)—Made by sixth
generation producers, from hand-harvested grapes
grown in the most southerly
Beaujolais area, on a steep, mostly south-facing
vineyard, this wine shows well
integrated flavors of cherry, ripe plums and spice.
It marries well with turkey
as well as grilled beef, lamb or veal chops.
2019Jean
Loron Domaine Des
Billard Saint-Amour
($19)—While Saint-Amour
wines have a reputation for being among the lightest
in Beaujolais, this
product, aged in cement tanks, has big bold flavors
of ripe raspberries and
plums that emerge with about 10 minutes of aeration.
It makes good
accompaniment to grilled steak, pasta with red sauce
or veal parmigiana.
2014
Domaine Marcel Joubert “Les Gres Rosés” Brouilly ($24)—From a producer who is a major
proponent of “natural wines” comes
this rather rustic example, tasting of liquid plums
with undertones of cherries
and strawberries, with a surprisingly smooth finish.
It went well with
ratatouille as well as grilled lamb chops.
2014
Les Trois Puits Chiroubles
($14)—Made from gamay grapes grown on steep slopes
at a relatively high
altitude, providing for a long, cool growing season,
this wine is light and
elegant, showing a bouquet and taste of wild
raspberries and ripe cherries,
with a good amount of acidity in its finish. It
mates well with seafood,
especially shrimp, scallops or even grilled
branzino.
2018
Stéphane Aviron Juliénas
($18)—This fragrant wine was fashioned from grapes
grown in soil noted for its
clay and limestone composition. Following
fermentation it was aged for a year
in neutral oak barrels and has a bouquet and taste
of cherries, raspberries and
strawberries with strong notes of herbs and some
spice in its finish. It
married well with veal Marsala and grilled lamb
chops.
2009
Louis Leyre Morgan Réserve
($28)—This wine is a testament to the premise that
many Cru Beaujolais age well
and
in fact improve with age. It has a medium-bodied
taste of plums and peaches
with undertones of toast and vanilla in its smooth
finish that made good
accompaniment to grilled swordfish and tuna as well
as turkey.
2017
Stéphane Aviron Chénas
($20)—This rather light wine was made from grapes
grown on 100-year-old vines planted
in sandy, pebbly soil that, following traditional
fermentation, was aged for a
year in cement tanks.. It shows a bouquet and taste
of cherries and raspberries
with a smooth finish. It’s perfect to accompany the
flavors of turkey,
cranberry sauce and stuffing.
2019
Coudert Fleurie Cuvée Christie
($22)—This elegant wine was fashioned from
hand-harvested grapes that were
sustainably grown on 30- to 40-year-old vines. It
shows a fragrant bouquet and
taste of ripe strawberries and cranberries, with a
smooth finish that enhanced
the flavors of risotto primavera, grilled chicken as
well as grilled swordfish.
2018
Antoine Sunier Régnie ”Montmerond”
($29)—Following fermentation this wine was aged for
8 months in used Burgundy
barrels. It has a pleasant bouquet and easy drinking
taste of ripe raspberries
and cherries that mates well with hamburgers, pizza
or grilled ribs
2017
Louis Jadot “Château des Jacques” Moulin-à-Vent ($28)—Made from a blend of grapes grown on 8
different vineyards, this
wine has a bouquet and taste of cassis, cherries and
raspberries with a
memorable finish, showing hints of exotic spice and
black pepper. It provides
excellent accompaniment to veal or pork chops as
well as duck or game hens.
❖❖❖
HINTS WE NEVER
COULD HAVE
THOUGHT OF ALL BY OURSELVES!
According to The
Washington Post, here is the
“Thanksgiving planning countdown: 7 tasks to
do now for a stress-free holiday dinner” By Becky Krystal
(11/8/21).
-Pick your
recipes!
-Acquire
or order your turkey.
-Buy all
your shelf-stable goods.
-Make your
pie crust.
-Order
your meal.
-Locate
all your tools and tableware.
-Clean
up.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites:
I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences."
Eating Las
Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering
the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene
since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS
VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as
well as the author of the Eating Las
Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.