À LA RECHERCHE DU PARIS,
Part Two
By John A. Curtas
NEW YORK CORNER KANOPI
By John Mariani
ANOTHER VERMEER
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
By John Mariani
NOTES
FROM THE WINE CELLAR
The
Wines of Herdade do Esporão
By Geoff Kalish
❖❖❖
On this week's episode of my WVOX
Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. March
30, I will be discussing with jazz
musician Jerryl Bell the Be Bop Movement
of the late 1950s. Go to: WVOX.com.
The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.
❖❖❖
ANNOUNCEMENT!
There will be no issue of Mariani's
Virtual Gourmet Newsletter
because Mariani will be in Ireland to gather
stories for future issues.
❖❖❖
À LA RECHERCHE DU PARIS,
Part Two
By John A. Curtas
Diane Keaton, Keanu
Reeves and Jack Nicholson at
Le Grand Colbert in "Somethin's
Gotta Give" (2003)
One
battle you will have to fight on your first few days
in Paris is adjusting your appetite to the time
zone. Hunger always seems to strike us in late
afternoon, when Paris affords few options for a
full, gastronomic meal. You may be starving and
exhausted at 5:00 pm, but the French are still
two-to-three hours away from even thinking about
dinner. Popping into one of the ubiquitous cafés is
always an option, but the better choice is to find
one of the great brasseries (Ma Bourgogne,
Lipp, Bouillon Chartier and,
Pharamond, to name but a few), in which to quell
those pangs at surprisingly modest prices compared
to the grand surroundings in which they are charged. As brassieres go, they don’t come much
grander than Le Grand Colbert— a Right
Bank institution since 1900)—which we approached at
5:30 pm, ravenous and ready to gnaw an arm
off, even though the sign said it didn’t open until
six. As we turned away, ready to concede
defeat, a voice wafted from the doorway in that
sing-song-y cadence so beautifully employed by
French women. “Bonjour Monsieur et Madame. I
saw you walk by a few minutes ago. Yes, we are
open." Within seconds we were whisked to a corner
booth in the eye-popping, Art Nouveau space and had
menus in our hands. At this hour, only a skeleton
crew was holding down the fort, and a young French
couple were the only other diners basking in its
Belle Époque splendor — by equal parts spacious,
romantic, dramatic and cozy. No mean feat that. But
the tuxedo-ed waiters treated us like we were
regulars, and within minutes we were being happily
sated. The menu is as comfortable as the design is
spectacular. Nothing fancy, just French comfort
classics like blanquette de veau, smoked
salmon with blinis, Breton skate wing swimming in
butter with capers (right), and the
ever-present île flottante (left),
which
we could eat every day (and almost did). We polished
these off with an alacrity that probably confirmed a
few stereotypes to our hosts, but they served
everything in good cheer to a couple of
famished, appreciative Americans. A half-carafe of
house Sancerre rounded things out, and it was as
satisfying a meal as we could've hoped for at that
hour. (All of it coming to 131 well-spent Euros.) Le Grand Colbert wears its casual elegance
the way only a one-hundred and twenty-two year old
Parisian icon can. It is one of those places where
everyone looks great bathed in its golden glow, and
you can just as easily envision people dressed to
the nines there as you can a bunch of businessmen or
a mysterious couple pursuing an affaire de
coeur. No wonder Jack Nicolson, Diane Keaton
and Keanu Reeves rendezvous at the restaurant in the
2003 movie “Something’s Gotta Give.” There's nothing
stuffy about it, the service is sincere and the
cooking keeps everyone happy, whether you're a local
or a hungry tourist looking for a plate of honest
grub. Restaurants like this simply do not exist in
the United States. They are one of the great
treasures of France, and reason enough, all by
themselves, to hop a plane across the pond.
CHEZ L’AMI JEAN
27 Rue Malar, 75007
+33 1 47 05 86 89
“I
have been in Paris
for almost a week and I have not heard anyone
say calories, or cholesterol, or even arterial
plaque. The French do not season their food
with regret.”– Mary-Lou Weisman
Watching your calories
is the last thing you want to do atL’Ami
Jean, the au
courant favorite of Parisian foodies and a
bistro that resists mightily the Brooklynization
of casual Parisian dining, preferring instead to
dish up gargantuan portions of French comfort
food. As with L’Ami Louis, its slightly
older cousin across the Seine, you enter
something of a time warp when you cross the
threshold into a crowded, narrow room whose
general appearance hasn’t changed since Maurice
Chevalier was breaking into talkies.
Unlike Cousin Louis, Jean was given an infusion
of new cooking blood twenty years ago when
Basque legend Stéphane Jégo took over the
kitchen, apparently bringing his “too much is
not enough” philosophy with him. Now he commands
his tiny brigade from an open window for all to
see, and when he isn’t barking out orders and
expediting plates, amuses himself by watching
his customers waddle out the door. Cheek-by-jowl everyone sits, the crowd
being a mixture of internet-educated gastronauts
and local trenchermen who’ve been expanding
their ample bellies at these tables since the
1970s. (From our vantage point, the ratio of
men-to-women diners seemed to be running at
about 10-1.) The effect is
one of a raucous eating club in a cramped space
where appreciating rib-sticking rustic fare is
the ticket for admission. Having taken serious umbrage to AA Gill’s
evisceration of L’Ami Louis, I must now posit an
objection in the other direction, in this case
to the lavish praise universally heaped upon
Jégo’s ode to excess. We have nothing against
wild boar stews, pork bellies with lentils, and
roasted pigeons drenched in wine. And we are
hardly one to quibble with rough-hewn bricks of
pâté de
campagne or puffy lobes of sweetbreads
roasted with thyme (right). But when we
considered our meal as a whole at this temple of
bistronomy, what stuck with us was the textural,
taste and visual sameness of our
multiple courses, more cuisine bourgeois than
restaurant cooking, finesse-free food heaped
into bowls. Nothing wrong with any of it, mind
you, but a certain flatness pervaded our meals,
with no stand-outs. Perhaps we just ordered
wrong—all five of us. Service was the definition of “harried”
but also as accommodating as the bustling
surroundings allow, and almost preternaturally
fast. They screwed up our white wine order, but
the “wrong” bottle happened to go beautifully
with the food at the same price. For dessert, get the enormous signature
rice pudding with caramel sauce, even if your
ribs are pleading for something less to stick to
them. Our party of five ordered
enough food for eight and ended up spending 160
euros/pp, including too much wine from the short
but very accessible wine list.
WILLI’S
WINE BAR 13
Rue des Petits Champs
+33 1 42 61 05 09
“In
wine there is wisdom, in beer there is freedom,
in water there is bacteria.”– Benjamin Franklin
Calling the First
Arrondissement a “target-rich environment” for
oenophiles is like referring to the Louvre as a
nice art gallery. The same advice I give about cafés
above applies to wine bars: Find one, make it
your daily watering hole, and you’ll be quaffing
like a native in no time.There
is wine aplenty in the area — Juveniles, Le
Rubis, À L’Heure du Vin — so finding one is as
easy as stepping in dog poop. (Yes, it is still
a problem, and the only thing we dislike about
Paris.) Oh, Willi’s
Wine Bar, how do we love thee? Let us
count the ways: Your wine, of course,
specializing in Rhônes by the glass or bottle,
both new and old, always interesting at a fair
price. Trophy hunters head straight to the
reserve Côte-Rôties; those of more modest means
will find plenty to love at all price points.
The food (classic bistro, but made with flair
and good groceries by chef François Yon);
excellent bread; exceptional cheese; and best of
all, a friendly welcome (whether you are known
or unknown) by a cheerful and knowledgeable
staff whose patience (with idiotic Americans who
can’t decide what to order) is as long as the
white-oak bar. In other words, Willi’s
is just about perfect. Whether you’re hungry for
a full meal, seeking a snack, or thirsty for a
glass of something special, it will send you
away smiling. English is freely spoken (it’s still
owned by the Brit Mark Williamson, who founded
it in 1980), but don’t let this home for ex-pats
fool you: It is as French as the Marseillaise
when it comes to the food and wine being served.
Of course, there are also those iconic posters,
and finally, the location in the heart of
where-it’s-at Paris. We’re more Right Bank than
Left Bank these days, and our favorite hotel
(the Grand Hotel du Palais Royale) is
only a few blocks away, so it’s a no-brainer to
make Willi’s our home away from home. Victor Hugo
said, “Paris nourishes the soul,” and Willi’s
fills that bill for us. You’ll have a hard time
spending more than 50 euros/pp on food, and
whether you opt for a glass at the bar or a ’07
Jamet Côte-Rôtie (170 euros), it will be money
well spent on refreshing your weary bones, and
reviving your joie de
vivre for the tastiest city on earth.
John A.
Curtas is a food writer and author of Eating
Las Vegas: The 52 Essential Restaurants
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
KANOPI
The Opus
Westchester Hotel
1 Renaissance
Square, White Plains, NY
914-761-4242
By
John Mariani
I have
long followed the culinary career of Anthony
Gonçalves since, as a self-taught chef, he
owned a popular restaurant in the New York
suburb of White Plains named Trotters,
before being hired as executive chef at the
Ritz-Carlton Hotel that went up nearby. His
talent was evident immediately, proudly
based on Iberian traditions, although in the
aerie on the 42nd and 43rd floors of the
hotel, his cuisine became more expansive and
a bit self-consciously modernist, based on
the fad for extravagant compositions
pioneered by Spanish chef Ferran Adrià.
Gonçalves also had an adjunct where he
served tapas in wistful ways. Now, with a new owner and a name change
to the Opus Westchester as of last
May,
the former dining room is all event space,
with an adjacent hallway that is now
Gonçalves’s most impressive and personal
effort yet, called Kanopi, whose altitude
(reached by taking two elevators) and wall of
windows allows a panorama that stretches from
the Hudson River to the cityscape of
Manhattan. As spring comes on, a table at
twilight is quite beautiful. The space itself, with just six tables,
each oddly blocked from view of each other,
used to have a bright open kitchen on the
opposite wall, but Gonçalves says he hated
being gawked at and now it’s just a gray wall.
The table settings, with white tablecloths,
set with little Jeff Koons-style figurines,
glow nicely in the soft lighting. Stemware is
of good quality, and various dishes are served
on various china. Kanopi
offers three tasting menus, whose dishes
change often. (Gonçalves says he keeps track
of guests’ meals and vows never to repeat a
dish when they return.) The six-course vegan
menu is $145, with $100 wine pairings
available; the five-course “Bem Vindos” menu
of mixed foods is $145, with wines at $95; the
seven-course Chef’s Tasting Voyage is $195,
with wines at $125. While I have my reservations about
proselytizing vegans, I am as delighted as any
to feast on vegetable presentations as
delectable as Gonçalves’s, all of them richly
flavorful (without dairy) and texturally
refined. I haven’t the space to do justice in
describing all the many dishesfrom
the three menus my party of three enjoyed, so
I’ll focus on those most representative of the
innovation and quality of ingredients. We began with richly creamy cow’s milk
cheese, roasted garlic, lardo
and anchovies (these last extremely salty) as
a fine rustic beginning squarely in the tapas
tradition, as was tempura-fried shiitake
mushrooms, string beans and
eggplant with Marcona almond butter and a
touch of Catalonian honey mustard. There was
more goat’s cheese with beautiful magenta
beets, lightly smoked trout roe and yogurt,
and then a hamachi ceviche tangy with finger
limes and a Meyer lemon-honey vinaigrette.
Ricotta was combined with black truffles along
with São Jorge cheese tortellini in a
sprightly, refreshing lemon-dashi cacio e
pepe rendition. A nicely chewy risotto
obtained its chocolate brown color from
mushrooms. Perfectly grilled branzino with a
crispy skin came with sweetparsnips,
the scent of garlic and an enoki mushroom
escabeche. A beef dish was made from the
deckle (which is the basis of pastrami) sliced
away from the loins and possessing a
tremendous amount of sweet fatty marbling,
accompanied by Yukon gold potato, scallions
and grilled romaine lettuce. The
desserts were playful: banana flan and ice
cream, chocolate, chestnut, pistachio and
black truffles; and a surprisingly tasty foie
gras macaron, with tomato and toasted sesame
seeds. The menu says that a meal at Kanopi may
take two to three hours, and the latter is far
more likely, and, with many glasses of wine
(there is a specialty cocktail list, too) and
so much food, it may seem laborious to some.
Service is cordial and sommelier Danny Martins
is very knowledgeable about the extensive wine
list of Portugal’s finest bottlings. I
keep my use of the word “extraordinary” to a
minimum in my reports, but no other word so
well describes the food that Gonçalves is
producing at Kanopi, with every dish
impeccably thought through, balanced and
presented with imagination and remarkable
technique. Although
the Michelin
Guide has little of the credibility it
used to, the company has in recent years
recommended a few Westchester County
restaurants as good choices. With the opening
of Kanopi, the Guide might well want to award
a star or two this year and suggest a trip to
White Plains for anyone interested in food at
this level.
Kanopi is open
for dinner Wed.-Sat. Free valet parking.
❖❖❖
ANOTHER VERMEER
By John Mariani
To read previous
chapters of ANOTHER VERMEER, go to thearchive
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
While Katie was at Art Today,
David was sleeping off his jet lag, rousing
himself around noon, having something to eat,
then heading to the local library to use the
files of TheNew YorkTimes
on microfiche, first using the printed index,
then winding the wide negative film strips to
articles on art forgery published over the
past few decades. There wasn’t much, but he
took notes, along with checking out the only
book on the subject in the stacks. He needed
to bone up fast on the general nature of
forging art works and seeing what kind of
people were involved, since he was pretty sure
they all had to have had much better brains
than the thugs and mobsters he’d gone after
during his police career. Indeed, he loved regaling Katie with just
how stupid the wiseguys he put away actually
were. If a thug managed to live past forty,
David called it “survival of the fastest,” those
who could get away, far away, when he wanted out
of the mob life. For some, that was the Witness
Protection Program, for others, just getting on
a plane to Patagonia. But David always insisted
that the smartest gangsters—the capos—had
the
I.Q. of an ox, while their inferiors’ brain
power rarely rose above that of a gnat. But forgers had to be very smart, very
canny, very, very good at what they did, not
least the guys who could reproduce to near
perfection twenty- and fifty-dollar bills, with
which David had a bit more familiarity than he
did about art forgery. Right at the start, David learned that
forging art was as old as art itself. After the
Greek master Praxiteles(above)
became a renowned sculptor in 4th century B.C.,
the Romans copied his statues and tried to sell
them as originals, with sellers, buyers and
scholars all haggling over attributions.David
was surprised to find that even a very young Michelangelo,
in 1496, carved a figure of a sleeping
Cupid, washed it with dirt to make it
look very old, and sold it to a dealer in Milan,
who in turn sold it to a Renaissance cardinal.
Even though caught in the fraud, Michelangelo
had shown his artistic prowess, and the statue
was held in high esteem until it disappeared in
the Great
Fire of London in 1666. Reading on, David developed a real
admiration for the ways so many forgers were
able to fool the experts, and, as a former cop,
he loved reading about how they were eventually
caught. Katie had already suggested that he
should research the most famous forger of the
20th century—Hans van
Meergeren, who happened to be Dutch. Starting before World
War II, van Meergeren had been painting copies
of 17th century Dutch masters for sale as
copies, but in the 1930s he turned to forgery,
creating new works in the style ofFrans Hals,
Pieter de Hooch and Gerard ter Borch. All of
them fooled the experts. But his
most notorious forgery was of seven Vermeers. Van Meergeren spent
four years perfecting his technique of forgery.
As Vermeer would have done, van Meergeren mixed
his own paint colors from raw materials, like
lapus lazuli, which produced a vibrant blue,
white lead, indigo from India and a mercury
sulfide called cinnabar to make an intense red.
He wove his own paint brushes, and it was easy
enough for him to find old canvases and frames
dating back to the 17th century in flea markets. He would first scrape off the paint from
an old canvas, create his fake, then, to make it
look as if painted in the 17th century, he’d
wash it with a phenyl formaldehyde resin that
hardened the paints as if they’d dried out over
hundreds of years. Then he’d further
dry them out in a hot oven.After
that, by rolling the canvases up on a metal
tube, he could produce cracks of varying degrees
that all Vermeer paintings had acquired as they
aged. Then van Meergeren rubbed black ink into
the cracks. The first fake he did he called Supper at
Emmaus (right), based
ona
similar painting by the Italian artist
Caravaggio of Christ stopping to have dinner
after rising from the dead. Van Meergeren
cannily chose the subject because Vermeer
scholars believed the artist might have once
traveled to Italy to learn from the masters
there, so choosing the Caravaggio painting to
forge in the style of a young Vermeer gave van
Meergeren the leeway to claim the painting was
not in the “mature style” Vermeer became famous
for. When Supper at
Emmaus was finished, van Meergeren’s
attorney obtained authentification by Vermeer
scholar Abraham Bredius, who pronounced it not
just a true Vermeer but “the
masterpiece” by the artist.The
painting was then sold to The Rembrandt Society
for 520,000 guilders and donated to the Museum
Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam (below).
Van
Meergeren followed up with several more fake
Vermeers, whose sales made him
a millionaire. Even as World War II raged, van
Meergeren prospered, especially by selling his
forgeries, through an art dealer named Alois
Miedl, to Nazi bankers, dealers and to Hermann
Goering himself, whose appetite for European
art, bought or stolen, was insatiable.Goering bought
van Meergeren’s Christ
with the Adulteress (below)
in 1943, but with the decline of the Third Reich
pending, stored it in an Austrian salt mine,
where it was discovered, along with 6,750 other works of art, in 1945
by a British Special Operations mission. Afterwards, Allied
experts on stolen art began questioning van
Meergeren’s dealer, Miedl, who confessed that
he’d obtained the Vermeer from van Meergeren,
which resulted in the forger’s arrest for fraud
and for collaborating with the Nazis. Threatened
with the death penalty, van Meergeren told the
authorities he had faked the paintings; yet,
even then some Vermeer scholars insisted the
paintings were authentic. Then, in a bizarre turn, during his trial
van Meergeren offered to prove his fraud by
painting a “new” Vermeer—he called it Jesus
Among the Doctors(below)—in the
middle of the courtroom, with judges, lawyers
and art experts watching. Embarrassed by the revelation, the
experts and the court realized that van
Meergeren could no longer be charged with
selling state treasures to the Nazis (right),
but he was still convicted of fraud and forgery
and sentenced to the minimal one year in prison.
Van Meergeren died in 1947 while awaiting an
appeal. The final irony was that by then van
Meergeren had become a quasi-hero by the Dutch,
because he had so roundly duped the Nazis. By the time David had finished going
through all this material, he had acquired a
grudging respect for the Dutch forger’s talent
and extraordinary chutzpah—something David had
never felt about the mobsters he pursued and
arrested. Sure, there were some pretty ingenious
bank robberies, but mobsters like Joe Bonanno,
Vito Genovese and John Gotti had never shown any
ingenuity at all. They were simple thugs who got
rich by extortion, bribery and murder.
Creativity had nothing to do with any of it. In
fact, David’s cop friends in Boston told him
they believed the break-in at the Gardner Museum
had been by a local mob that quickly discovered
it would be impossible to fence such
high-profile artworks. Feeling moderately boned up on 20th
century art forgery, David decided to call
Gerald Kiley at Interpol to ask who might be the
most likely bidders at the auction of the
Vermeer. Kiley said, “Y’know, David, you’re
already assuming a crime has been perpetrated,
or is in the process. Do you have reason to
think the painting’s a forgery?” “I would tell you if I did,” said David.
“I spent some time reading about forged art in
the 20th century, like that guy van Meergeren,
and I have to say I’m amazed that he got away
with it as easily as he did. How could all these
so-called experts put their reputations on the
line and declare the paintings authentic? Even
I—and I know nothing
about Old Masters—even I could see the van
Meergeren copies didn’t look much like Vermeers
at all.” “Well, one thing you’ve got to
understand,” said Kiley, “is that this was
during the war, when a whole lot of stuff got
stolen and sold and vouched for because there
was money in it. The known Vermeers were
scattered all over the world and not easy for an
expert to have first-hand, detailed experience
with. Most of the time they’d probably never
seen the original, so they worked from photos,
and in the case of private collectors, even
photos were not available, or way out of date.” “Understood. But do you think a forger
could get away with it today?” “Not as easily as van Meergeren. The
experts today are far more expert at what they
do, and now they have scientific methods at
their disposal to check the age of things.” “You mean carbon dating?” “No, carbon dating works only if a piece
is at least 40,0000 years old. The Vermeer’s,
what? Less than four hundred?” “O.K.” said David, “I’m not going to take
up your time asking you what other techniques
they use today, but to get back to my first
question, my colleague Katie Cavuto put in a lot
of research time on, like, the hundred biggest
art collectors, and I’d like to help her narrow
it down to as few as possible who would have the
kind of bankroll for a painting they say could
go for $100 million.” “Give me a day or so, and I’ll see what I
can come up with.” “I appreciate it. So will Katie.” “But I want to remind you again, David:
As far as Interpol is concerned, there’s nothing
about this sale—thus far—that’s setting off
bells and whistles.” “But you’ll be keeping an eye on it?” “Routine business. And now, I am going to
have lunch and afterwards try to track the bust
of a fifth century B.C. Babylonian horse god
that was stolen last year in Iraq.” David went
back to his house and called Katie. “What’re you up to?” he asked. “I loafed this weekend. Went to the
movies last night, finished offwith a
pizza.” As much as David wanted to know with whom
and where Katie went for a movie and a pizza, he
stifled the urge to ask. “What movie did you see?” “Good
Will Hunting, about a neurotic genius—a
new actor named Matt Damon—with Robin Williams
playing his psychiatrist. Pretty impressive
work.” David thought it sounded like the kind of
movie Katie would go to with her lawyer friend.
The last movie David had seen was Copland,
with Sylvester Stallone playing an honest
policeman battling a corrupt precinct in New
Jersey. “Well,” said David. “I’m expecting some
info from the Interpol guy about possible
bidders that might help narrow down your list.” “Jeez, I hope so,” said Katie. “I’m just
not knowledgeable enough about this stuff to
reduce the list by much. Best thing I could do
was to see which ones were actual billionaires,
because no mere multi-millionaire could afford
to buy this painting. That got it down to about
twenty individuals. Six Americans, three Brits,
maybe three Russians, a couple of Chinese, and
the rest in Europe or South America. You can’t
believe how rich some Mexicans and Brazilians
are.” “Well, maybe the Interpol list will
help.” “Oh, by the way, on Thursday I’m going to
see my old German history professor at Fordham.
Y’know, the guy who was so helpful with us on
the Capone case. You want to come with me?” David, feeling like a dog being let back
in the house, said, “Sure, I liked your
professor a lot. What’s his name, Mundt?” “Yeah, Karl Mundt. Can you get down to
Fordham by four? That’s when he has office
hours.” “Same place?” “Same place.” “See you then.” They hung up and David
was happy he was going to see Katie in one of
those same places they’d gone on the Capone
case.Why,
he almost felt nostalgic about it.
In preparation
for a Webinar about the estate and its wines I
recently had the opportunity to sample eight of
the current offerings of Portuguese producer Herdade do
Esporão. And, as discussed below, overall, I
found the wines quite
enjoyable and well worth their usual price. Also,
while surprisingly little known by most American
consumers, the wines are widely available at
retail outlets in most regions of the country. Of
note,
while the original
boundaries of Herade do Esporao were set in 1267, it
was not until 1973, when
José Roquette and Joaquim Bandiera purchased
the property, that a commitment to produce wine there
was initiated. So, with
its first harvest in 1985 and a major emphasis on
sustainability, the winery,
now under the direction of CEO João Roquette (left) and
winemaker Sandra Alves (below), is currently
producing over 3 million cases annually.
WHITES
Monte Velho White 2020 ($10)—This simple white
bargain from the Alentejo in southern Portugal shows
a bouquet and taste of lemons and pears with hints
of grapefruit in its finish. It mates well with
pasta primavera, grilled shrimp or sea bream.
Esporão Colheita White
2020
($15)—This wine was made from a blend of certified
organic grapes and shows a bouquet and taste of ripe
grapefruit and gooseberries with notes of pineapple
and a long finish. It made good accompaniment for
pork chops and grilled swordfish.
Esporão Reserva White
2020
($17)—Made from a blend of organically farmedgrapes
aged for six months in a combination of new American
and French oak barrels, this wine’s bouquet and
taste were similar to that of a South African
Sauvignon Blanc with a bold bouquet and taste of
grapefruit, lychee and pineapple. Try it with
seafood stews, grilled trout or shrimp scampi.
Esporão Private Selection
White 2017 ($31)—Fashioned from 100% hand-picked
Semillon grapes, this elegant white shows a bouquet
and taste of peaches and tangerines with notes of
toasted oak and spice in its lingering finish. It
marries well with grilled scallops, as well as
paella and other fish stews.
REDS
Monte Velho Tinto 2020 ($10)—This light, easy
drinking red shows a bouquet and taste of ripe
cherries and plums, with some spice in its finish
and goes well with hamburgers, pizza and spicy
chicken wings.
Esporão Colheita Red 2020 ($18)—Made from
organically farmed grapes, this wine has a bouquet
and taste of ripe blueberries and plums, with a
long, elegant fruity finish. It mates well with veal
chops, duck breast and baked rock Cornish game hens.
Esporao Reserva Tinto
2019
($20)—Aged for 12 months in oak barrels (60%
American and 40% French) this blend shows a bouquet
and taste of ripe plums and toast, with hints of
chocolate and licorice in its long finish. Marry it
with lamb or pork chops or brisket of beef.
Canto
Do Ze Cruz Aragonez Tinto 2014 (
$38)—This elegant wine was made from 100%
hand-harvested Aragonez (Tempranillo) grapes aged in
new French oak barrels for 12 months before bottling.
It has an intense bouquet and vibrant taste of ripe
red berries and plums, with hints of cranberries and
some tannin in its finish. It made great accompaniment
for a range of fare from grilled swordfishto veal
Marsala, and even well-aged cheddar cheese.
Dr. Geoff Kalish
has been writing professionally about wine,
food and travel for over 40 years.
❖❖❖
HMM,
YOU’D THINK WE WOULD HAVE NOTICED
“How Creole Cuisine
Became the Unassuming Cornerstone of LA’s Food
Landscape,” by Anneliese
Wilson,Eater.com
(3/1/ 2022)
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
❖❖❖
FEATURED
LINKS: I am happy to report
that the Virtual
Gourmet is linked to four excellent
travel sites:
I consider this the best and
savviest blog of its kind on the web. Potter is a
columnist for USA
Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury Spa Finder,
a contributing editor for Ski and a frequent contributor
to National
Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com
and Elle Decor.
"I’ve designed this site is for people who take
their travel seriously," says Potter. "For
travelers who want to learn about special places
but don’t necessarily want to pay through the nose for
the privilege of staying there. Because at the end
of the day, it’s not so much about five-star
places as five-star experiences."
Eating Las
Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering
the Las Vegas food and restaurant scene
since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS
VEGAS – The 50 Essential Restaurants (as
well as the author of the Eating Las
Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas.
He can also be seen every Friday morning as
the “resident foodie” for Wake Up With the
Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Channel 3 in
Las Vegas.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.