Virtual Gourmet

  April 23, 2023                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

Founded in 1996 



Mary Murphy, Timothy Carey, Alvy Moore and Marlon Brando in "The Wild One " (1953)



By John Mariani


By John Mariani

By John Mariani

BY Geoff Kalish


On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Show "Almost Golden," on Wed. April 26,  11AM EDT,I will be interviewing Rick Steves and Fred Plotkin about their new book, ITALY FOR FOOD LOVERS. Go to: The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.



                                                                                            77 South Main Street

                                                                                                   Canandaigua, NY



                                                                                            By John Mariani



            I suspect most Americans have little idea how very big New York State really is—54,556 square miles—and, beyond New York City, how much grandeur there is within it. The Hudson Valley, with its rich history and vineyards; the rolling Catskills and Appalachians; the majestic Northway that goes all the way to Canada; the glorious Niagara Falls; and the Finger Lakes are but a few of its natural attractions, so many preserved by the fiats of Teddy Roosevelt.
            There are eleven Finger Lakes, most with evocative Indian names—Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca, Cayuga, Canadice, Conesus, Honeyoye, Otisco, Hemlock, Owasco and Skaneateles. Of these, the first four are rich with vineyards making renowned Riesling and, in recent years, praiseworthy
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and ice wines, along with numerous breweries, distilleries and hard cider venues.
         Ski resorts abound, as well as hunting trails, with superb fishing grounds. Watkins Glen racing grounds are extremely popular during the season. Waterfalls and gorges abound, with 26 state parks and 2,000 miles of hiking trails and 95 public campgrounds. The region is rich in culture, with more than 235 museums and 80 art galleries.
         At the end of winter and the onset of spring, my wife and I drove up from Westchester County to stay at Lake House on Canandaigua, whose Indian name means the “chosen place.” The lake stretches 15.5 miles in length and 1.5 miles in width, with beach areas, several marinas, the New York Wine and Culinary Center, Roseland Water Park and the gorgeous Sonnenberg Gardens, set with nine gardens dating back to 1902.
         The Lake House itself is one of the finest resorts in the region after a lesser property had been demolished and rebuilt as of two years ago with 124 guest rooms by the Sands family. Both interior and exteriors are balanced between minimalism and evocative lake country furnishings, extremely comfortable with every modern amenity without being over embellished. Colors of white, gray, moss green and tan abound.
      The foyer and check-in space is wide and deep, looking out onto the lake, with a Calder-like chandelier and breezy mezzanine. Rooms are capacious, as are the bathrooms, and the Willowbrook Spa offers every kind of service, including an outdoor sauna set within what looks like a large wine barrel.
         The main dining room, Rose Tavern,  is equally large and tables are well separated across from a long bar on one side and an open kitchen on the other, with expanses of polished wood and a terrace that is particularly appealing at breakfast. The lighting is soft throughout, music unobtrusive. The young, local service staffers, in plaid shirts outside their pants, are delighted to engage you in conversation about the area, make suggestions of what to see and where to eat on Main Street.
         Before even getting to the appetizers, I must tell you about the Parker House rolls ($8), those puffy, yeasty gems created at the Parker House Hotel in Boston and since have become a much imitated  American staple. Rose Tavern’s are nonpareil, and when I asked if they were served at breakfast, the crew that morning was able to provide them, served with honey butter and Maldon sea salt.
         The menu is rightly geared towards modern American fare, with appetizers like chunky house sausage with excellent poblano-studded cornbread, greens, goat’s cheese, tomato and pumpkin ($18); farmstead cheeses and charcuterie ($32) for the table; and an excellent, creamy and finely seasoned seafood chowder with cracker tuile ($18), although when I was there the menu read “bay scallop chowder,” when it actually contained sea scallops, along with shrimp.
         The focus of the kitchen is the oak-fired hearth in which many items are cooked, including three cuts of beef, a half chicken ($30), Berkshire pork chop ($40) and hamachi ($48). We chose a 10-ounce coulotte of beef ($36), cut from the cap muscle, with rich, mineral quality and a pleasing texture that goes well with any of the many sauces offered, from red wine jus to green chile chimichurri.
         We also enjoyed a pan-roasted cod with a fennel soubise, sauce Provençale and Parmesan foam ($36). A bowl  of “Sticky” Brussels sprouts ($14) and a mountain of charred fingerling potatoes in a chimichurri vinaigrette ($14) rounded out the meal. Everything at Rose Tavern comes in large portions, easy to share for two or more people.
         Desserts were a pretty beet red velvet cake with chocolate crèmeux and blood orange gel ($11) and a lemon pistachio cheesecake that was rather gummy ($12). By the way, s’mores kits are provided nightly for those who’d like a marshmallow roast at evening’s end.
         Rose Tavern has an extensive and well chosen wine list, with 20 wines by the glass. 
The second restaurant at the Lake House is the seafood-focused Sand Bar, which attracts many locals to the bar.
        As spring sprouts in the Finger Lakes the options for outdoor activities beyond the ski slopes expand considerably, and the town of Canandaigua comes alive, especially along a mile-long strip of
Main Street, which may put baby boomers in mind of the 1950s and 1960s.
         The street is lined with shops where you can find regional art, dolls, chocolates, tea, toys, glass works, needle art, tattoo parlors, jewelry and comic books, along with several eateries well regarded by locals, including Bon Ami French Bistro, Nick’s Chophouse, Simply Crêpes and Rio Tomatlan Mexican, as well as the Frequentem Brewing Company.






                                                                                                        496 Ninth Avenue


By John Mariani


            Sorry to shock you, but French fried potatoes were not the invention of any French cook. The term “French fry” has nothing to do with the country, but instead refers to a method of cutting potatoes into narrow strips—called “frenching” in English. In France, they are called pommes frites, but are not even mentioned by Escoffier, Larousse Gastronomique or the 1846 anecdotal Paris à Table or A Bite-Sized History of France (2018). Nevertheless, French fries, or just plain fries or frites, have taken the world by storm and they are a dish that always gets consumed ravenously, especially when set next to steak, whether it’s in Boston, Bangkok or Beijing.
         The French term steak frites refers to a bistro/brasserie staple, once made from the rump cut but more usually these days from the onglet, or hanger steak cut from the blade. It has wonderful flavor and a characteristic chewiness.
         Okay, enough history. Steak Frites in Hell’s Kitchen is obviously committed to this traditional dish the way Nathan’s Hot Dogs is to frankfurters. And for its rendering of that single dish, Steak Frites would be worth going to for a fix. But, beyond that, there is considerable variety, also tied to bistro traditions, from onion soup to baba rhum.
         So, too, the décor will put you in mind of France, with its abundance of dark woodwork, black and white tile floors, tilted mirrors and art deco touches. With all hard surfaces—no tablecloths and a wooden ceiling—noise bounces all over the room’s 65 seats at a high level.
Adam Schop (right) has good familiarity with the genre, having worked at Zinc Bistro  in Scottsdale, and Le Diplomate in DC, and he’s nailed all the classics you’d expect.
      Alex Percival has put together a wine list geared towards bistro fare, with many regional French bottlings under $70, though those above $100 are marked up very high, like the 2018 Domaine Chamonard Fleurie La Madone that sells in stores for  $42  but is hiked up to $132 at Steak Frites.

        We began with a finely chopped s
teak tartare ($18) that was pleasantly seasoned and served with crusty bread that went just as well with a thick slab of robust pâté de campagne ($14).  French onion soup gratinée is a paragon, with its  thick browned crust of Gruyère cheese overflowing the crock so that you know what lies beneath is going to be full of sweet, gooey goodness ($15).
         The roast chicken ($28) is superlative, well browned, succulent and there’s plenty of it for a very good price. So, too, the hanger steak ($38) is to be applauded, for even if this is considered an
inferior cut to a filet mignon or ribeye, it is in fact the cut often saved by butchers for their own meal. The one I enjoyed had just the right amount of texture and was impeccably cooked, along with the requisite French fries. (Has anyone noticed that really good French fries are almost a given in New York these days?)
        The  massive, well-marbled côte de boeuf ($94 ) is intended for two, but our party of four shared the platter with gusto, and I still took some home for lunch. Gnocchi Parisienne ($25), served as a main course, was, as the dish so often is, very soft and lacked much flavor; better as a side dish.
        The menu offers extra sauces, and the au poivre ($5) is welcome, but the morel sauce was bland and not worth $12. Spinach ($9) goes very well with any of  the main courses.
        There are four traditional bistro desserts that have been brought to a high standard, including a chocolate soufflé ($16), creamy, eggy clafouti ($14), very moist baba rhum ($14) and a rich crème brûlée ($15).
        I don’t usually mention waiters by name, but if you’re lucky enough to get Ana as yours, you’re in for a wonderful evening.
        So what’s in a name? With Steak Frites, a great deal more than face value. It could easily be just a happy neighborhood joint. As it is, it’s a place for anyone hungry for dishes made sacrosanct in French cuisine long ago to seek out. And take some food home.


Open for lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sat. & Sun.




By  John Mariani



To read previous chapters of GOING AFTER HARRY LIME go to the archive




           By then it was mid-morning in New York and McClure’s editor Alan Dobell took Katie’s call immediately.
         “So how’s foggy Londontown?” he asked.
         “Drizzling at the moment,” said Katie.
         “And how’s the hunt for Harry Lime coming along?”
         “Alan, listen to me carefully. There’s been a seismic shift in the story that goes beyond Graham Greene and Harry Lime.”
         “I’m all ears.”
         Katie began by telling Dobell he had to keep what she was about to tell him a secret from everyone, even the other editors.
         “I can’t confirm the news for sure, Alan, but I think there’s a chance Kim Philby is still alive.”
         Dobell was suitably amazed by Katie’s statement, grabbed a pen and told her to give him everything she had. Katie briefly told him of her time with David in London, what their research had turned up, whom they interviewed, and then all about the rambling conversation with Leonid Lentov, ending with the information that she had—or hoped she had—Kim Philby’s address in Moscow.
         Dobell blew a low whistle and said, “If that’s all true, Katie, it would be a fantastic story. Hell, it may well be fantasy. I have to tell you, it would be a much bigger story than who inspired Greene to create Harry Lime.”
         “True,” she said, “but if—and it’s a big if—I do contact a living, breathing Kim Philby, he might only see David and me if I told him I wanted to talk to him about Graham Greene and Harry Lime.”
         “Given that Philby’s the bigger story,” said Dobell, “isn’t that a bit of misrepresentation on your part? What if he swears you to secrecy that he’s still alive?”
        “I guess we’ll have to take that chance, in which case we’d need a whole lot more corroboration about Philby.”
         “You think this guy Lentov would go on the record?”
         “I don’t know, probably not, but I think he’d be willing to be an unnamed source.”
         There was a pause, then Dobell said, “Well, I guess you and David better book a plane to Moscow.”
         Katie thanked her editor profusely and said, “I’ll bring you back one of those big Russian fur hats.”
         “Don’t bother. I’d look like George Costanza did in that Seinfeld episode when he got one from J. Peterman.”


                                                                *                         *                         *


         Katie couldn’t wait to tell David the news over dinner, which was to be at Zafferano, an Italian place in Belgravia, not too far from their hotel. Both of them were in the mood for Italian food, and, now that they were on McClure’s expense account, they could up the ante a little on what they spent.
         They were cordially seated in a dining room the British would call “smart modern,” not formal but several cuts above “casual,” with a painted brick wall, polished wooden floors, and expanses of cherrywood dividers. 
The menu echoed those at New York’s more upscale Italian restaurants, with dishes like linguine with lobster and chili pepper, thinly sliced beef topped with greens and olive oil, and the inevitable creamy chocolate and coffee dessert called tiramisù.
         Looking around the room, David said, “Portions look small.”
         Katie waited till they’d ordered cocktails before saying much at all.
         “So’d you talk to Dobell?” asked David.
         “So what’d he say?”
         “He say we should book tickets to Moscow and find Kim Philby!” Katie said, her eyebrows raised as high as they could go.
         “No shit!” said David. “We, as in you and me? All expenses?”
         “Same as when we went to Italy and Taiwan on stories.”
         David called the captain and asked for the wine list, then said to Katie, “How much can we spend on wine tonight?”
         She laughed and said, “Let’s keep our expense account for vodka shots in Moscow. Pick something, like forty or fifty pounds, tops.”
         That didn’t prove easy on a list top heavy with expensive Italian wines, but David found a Valpolicella Ripasso that would go well with their food—for Katie, a risotto, for David veal alla milanese.
         “So what’s our plan, David? How would you go about getting to Philby, if this were a police case?”
         “Well, I wish we were going in with some kind of contact before just knocking on the guy’s door. The problem is, if I were to call somebody at Interpol or the CIA or even Frank English, I’d feel very shaky about telling them the reason. If I was still a cop, I could claim a need for secrecy, but I’m not even on a legitimate case. No one in MI6 is going to help. I’m gonna have to think about this.”
         “What about Southey?” asked Katie.
         David said, “Southey believes Philby’s dead. Or at least I think he does. Then again, could he be one of those retired MI6 agents who knows what Lentov knows?”
         “If he is, why wouldn’t he have told us instead of sending us to see Lentov?”
         “I kind of assumed that,” said David. “If Southey does not know, then I’d hate to break the news to him. Maybe we can just ask if he has a contact in Moscow we could deal with simply because we’re going there to do some research and, as you like to say, color. Just a little snooping around, that’s all.”
         “Guess it’s worth a call. He’s not going to give us the name of any MI6 agent currently working in Moscow.”
         “Oh,” said David, looking innocent and putting his hand on his chest. “I thought the Cold War was over and we don’t spy on each other anymore.”
         “Yeah, right. Anyway, maybe he’s got a friendly contact with an old KGB retiree like himself in Moscow.”
         “Well, we’ll call him tomorrow then,” said David, then he snapped his fingers. “Y’know, I should have shown those lists I made from the archives to Southey and Lentov. Stupid of me to forget.”
         “If we get to see Philby you can pass them under his eyes.”
if,’” said David, “but, oh, well, right now I think we should taste the wine.”
        David loved these meals with Katie. It didn’t matter if they were smart modern, casual or just storefront eateries. He just felt the two of them got on so well, aside from professionalism, and it dogged him to think that she acted differently when out to dinner with the lawyer guy. He hated to think of them holding hands in the glow of candlelight and wouldn’t even allow himself to think of what might happen after dinner was over. For the moment, he was with a beautiful woman he could talk to for hours over a good meal someone else was paying for. That was a pretty good deal all around.


John Mariani, 2016




By Geoff Kalish


                                                                                                                        By Geoff Kalish


        I’ve found that as the opening song of Porgy & Bess proclaims, “Summertime and the livin’ is easy,” warm weather wine drinking is also best when it’s easy.  In fact, since food is usually lighter this time of year (few stews, or pasta with heavy meat sauces, etc.) this is rarely the season to bring out prized old Bordeaux or long-ago vintages of California Cabernet or well aged Barolo or even cherished Prémier cru white Burgundies. That’s not to say that the wines chosen shouldn’t have memorable, rich flavors, just not the bouquets and taste of lots of oak, eucalyptus or tannin in the reds or more than a bit of oak or grapefruit in the whites.
        And, I’ve found that the reds that work best with the likes of barbecued ribs, grilled steaks and cedar-planked fish seem to be those that have fragrant bouquets and a fruity taste of cherries, raspberries and strawberries and perhaps a touch of tannin in their finish, with the best whites and rosés for this time of year, whether sweet or dry, showing at least a bit of citrus and good acidity. So, from a series of recent tastings, some sensibly priced recommendations follow.




2020 Willm Gewürztraminer Réserve ($17)—Not totally dry and not really sweet, this wine, with a bouquet and taste of lychee and peach with notes of honeysuckle and grapefruit in its finish, makes a great match to highly spiced Asian fare as well as food accompanied by heady chimichurri sauce or zesty pico de gallo.


Dr. Hans Von Müller Riesling Spätlese ($14)—Hailing from Germany’s southeastern Mosel area, this low alcohol (8%) wine has a fragrant bouquet and sweet taste of ripe melons and pineapple with notes of lemon in its lively finish. It mates well with grilled soft-shell crabs, shrimp scampi and even swordfish.


2018 Jordan Chardonnay ($36)—Not as well known as the iconic Cabernet Sauvignon from this Alexander Valley producer, this winner is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes from Russian River Valley. Its depth  and rich, full taste of apples, kumquats and brioche is enhanced by fermentation in a combination of oak barrels and stainless steel, a period of time on its lees (wasted yeast) and almost six months of aging in French oak barrels. It pairs perfectly with a range of fare from raw oysters to grilled chicken to pasta primavera.


2021 Fjord Albariño ($25)—Hailing from a very small Hudson Valley New York producer, this light fruity wine with undertones of pineapple and citrus makes great accompaniment to grilled shrimp, branzino and black sea bass as well as grilled octopus. Moreover, it adds to the flavors of salads that incorporate cheese, like Caesar and Greek (with feta)


2022 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc ($16)—This very popular, classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc wine from Marlborough shows a bouquet and flavors of ripe melons and grapefruit with hints of lemon and lime in its zesty finish. It marries well with raw oysters, shrimp and especially lobster.





2018 Château des Hautes Tuileries Lalande de Pomerol ($28)—This elegant wine was fashioned from hand-harvested grapes (primarily Merlot) grown on 30-year-old vines in the Néac district, just north of Pomerol in France’s right bank of the Bordeaux region. It shows a bouquet and taste of ripe plums and black currants, with notes of oak and chocolate in its finish. It’s flavorful enough to mate with grilled breast of duck and rack of lamb, but light enough to marry well with grilled salmon.


2020 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico ($24)—Made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot hand-harvested grapes, grown in sandstone-laden vineyards north of Siena, this vintage is lighter in character than some previous years—owing perhaps to the earlier harvest of its grapes, but no less elegant. It shows a bouquet of raspberries and ripe cherries and notes of wild strawberries in its fruity finish, holding just enough acidity to match the flavor of barbecued chicken and pork chops, as well as grilled tuna and Arctic Char.


2018 Cantine di Ora Amicone ($16)—This wine is similar in grape composition and processing to Amarone—primarily Corvina and some Corvina and Rondinella grapes from Italy’s Veneto region that are allowed to dry to concentrate their sugar before fermentation. But, owing to a shorter drying time, it’s less intense than Amarone, making its flavors of plums, cranberry and herbs light enough for veal, grilled pork chops and even grilled trout.





NV Clairette de Vie Impériale ($15)—This low alcohol (8%) bubbly was made from hand-harvested grapes (Clairette and Muscat) grown in chalky soils in southeastern France’s Drome Valley. Vinification was by the “Méthode Ancestrale,” in which fermenting juice is bottled and allowed to continue fermenting in the final bottle, providing the wine with its effervescence. It’s slightly sweet, with a bouquet and taste of lychee and lemon zest, and mates especially well with pâtés and fois gras and even marinated artichoke hearts.





2022 Château d’Ésclans Whispering Angels ($21)—This very popular rosé comes from a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Rolle grapes grown in southern France’s Provence region. It shows a fragrant bouquet and very fruity taste of strawberries and watermelon, with a vibrant finish that mates particularly well with starters like guacamole, cocktail franks and toasts with olive tapanade.

Dr. Geoffrey Kalish writes about food and wine for Westchester magazine.
He lives in Mount Kisco, NY



"The Composed Beauty of a Big-Ass Salad," by Tammie Teclemariam, New York  (3/27/23)


 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from

   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 


“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.

“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.


The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.

"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.

Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.

"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross,

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.



MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.


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