Mariani's
Virtual Gourmet
"Italian Still Life" by Konrad Cramer (1930)
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THIS WEEK LE BERNARDIN By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER DA ADRIANO By John Mariani THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES CHAPTER TWELVE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR THE WOMEN OF CAKEBREAD CELLARS By John Mariani ❖❖❖
LE BERNARDIN: HOW IT'S
STAYED
ON TOP FOR FOUR DECADES By John Mariani
In 1986 Parisians
Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze took a leap of
faith that New York would appreciate a
luxurious restaurant named Le Bernardin
devoted solely to seafood made with
ingredients from American waters. The
original Le Bernardin was in Paris, which
meant a trans-Atlantic commute for the
brother and sister, who had little
familiarity with what might
be available in New York’s Fulton Fish
Market. Gilbert, as chef, spent early
mornings there goading the notoriously
tough vendors to give him their best, from
lobsters and bay scallops to tuna and sea
urchins. Maguy, after
your success in Paris with LB did you and
Gilbert plan to open in NYC and other
cities? After Paris, I really
wanted to open in New York City. I loved the
energy of the city. Gilbert was more
reluctant, because at the time we couldn’t
find the same quality of ingredients that we
had in Paris. Did you change
the Paris menu in NYC based on what seafood
was available in the market? Yes, we did. Gilbert was going to the fish market every night and was very inspired by the local New England seafood coming from day boats. To which, the menu was highlighting regional North American species. Were you
surprised Americans wanted to eat at an
all-seafood French restaurant?
When we opened,
dinner was $65 for three courses. Today, our
prix fixe dinner menu is $210 for four courses
with elaborate canapés and petit fours.
When my brother
passed, I was devastated, but I never thought
about closing and going back to France. With
the help of the team and Eric in the kitchen,
we worked extremely hard and kept Le Bernardin
successful. Eric, were you frightened by the idea of taking over from Gilbert? The loss of Gilbert
was very emotional because we had become very
close friends, almost like family. However, I
was not scared of continuing the legacy of
Gilbert. I was focused, maybe a little naïve,
but fearless and Maguy was a great support. What are the essential qualities of Gilbert’s cooking that you would never change? Gilbert was an
autodidact. His cuisine was very personal and
influenced by his roots in Brittany. His
obsession for freshness, precision, and
ultimately the philosophy that “the fish is
the star of the plate” will never change at Le
Bernardin. Has there, however, been an evolution in your cuisine? When I started with
Gilbert, he gave me a lot of freedom and I was
very inspired by my roots in the South of
France and Spanish cuisine. Then, with both
living in the vibrant city of New York and
having opportunities to travel around the
world came inspiration. And we created a
natural fusion in between cultures that never
stops. Maguy/Eric: What were your fears when Covid shut the restaurant? We were heartbroken,
because we had to let go of most of the
employees. And at the time, nobody knew when
we would reopen. We were very concerned by the
well-being of the employees and patrons. What happened to your staff during Covid? We laid off most of
the team and kept the office open. We were
able to bring back a few kitchen employees to
cook meals for World Central Kitchen with the
support of City Harvest. It seems LB is
more popular than ever. Who are your
clientele now? Percentage of New Yorkers,
French, Asians, etc.? We never compromised
on the experience we delivered, from the
service to the food. We keep our prices
reasonable and did not develop other
restaurants. Our clientele seem to appreciate
that. I believe the vast majority are New
Yorkers from many different ethnicities. And
our Asian clientele from South Korea and Japan
has grown tremendously. With our standings
on La
Liste and Michelin,
we have also seen an increase in clientele
from France. Maguy, how
would you describe the style you brought to
LB and NY? How often are you able to be in
NY? I spend a lot of time
in New York, and I always keep an eye on Le
Bernardin with Eric. I believe I was able to
bring a Parisian sense of style and flair to
the restaurant. This style was an elegance and
sophistication that you find in many
restaurants today but was not so common in the
U.S. at the time.
This is not the
truth at all. If you try to make a reservation
in fine dining establishments, very often one
cannot get a table. We think that fine dining
and luxurious restaurants are very vibrant and
inspirational.
Eric and I thought
that it was more pleasurable and efficient to
focus on one property, so we decided to close
these locations to regroup in New York. We
made one exception with our restaurant Blue by
Eric Ripert at the Ritz Carlton in Grand
Cayman.
Do you feel
that hiring first-rate kitchen staff is
harder than ever? At Le Bernardin, we
do not have problems to find employees in all
departments, especially the kitchen. A lot of
young cooks are excited to learn in fine
dining restaurants. It is the best place for
them to work with luxurious ingredients, have
great equipment, and large teams to support
them. ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER Da
Adriano By John Mariani Adriano Kercuku describes his
storefront as a “Caffé, focacceria and
bottega,” wherein he does serve Italian coffee
(12 types), focaccia bread sandwiches and food
items. (There
is a Brooklyn branch for take-out orders.) But
it is also one of the most delightful new osterias
in Manhattan, located on the Upper East Side,
where Italian restaurants are largely copies
of each other with long menus of favorite
staples. Some of those staples are on the menu
at da Adriano, too, but there are plenty of
other dishes that are his and his alone. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. ❖❖❖ THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES By John Mariani CHAPTER TWELVE
City
Island, The Bronx
At
the same time Katie was doing her research, David
was busy phoning up old colleagues—not just
policemen he’d worked with but guys he’d kept in
touch with from high school, old neighborhood
friends he used to have beers with at the Irish
bars in Woodlawn. Sometimes he’d meet them at an
old hang-out to talk and drink pints of Guinness,
which he hated. Most of the time, when he brought
up the subject of child molestation, David’s old
friends looked at him as if he’d broached a
subject that made them very uncomfortable. Several
shook their heads and said something like, “What
do you want to bring that stuff up for? Let the
Church take care of those bastards.” Others joked
about a priest or brother who seemed a little too
affectionate with the students back in high
school, and more than one confessed to having
fantasies about some of the pretty, young nuns. The joke
back then was, “You can kiss a nun, but you can’t
get into the habit!”
*
*
*
Tuesday
morning
David received a call from Tommy Sullivan. © John Mariani, 2018 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE WOMEN OF CAKEBREAD CELLARS Part One By John Mariani Dolores Cakebread
Strides
made by women in the American wine industry
have been notable since 2000, building on the
shoulders of those women who pioneered wine
culture both in the U.S. and abroad. Thus,
during Women’s History Month, I interviewed
three West Coast women who are in the
forefront of their regions’
development.
Niki Williams brings more than a decade of
experience from some of Napa Valley’s most
well-known wine estates, including Mount Veeder
Winery, The Prisoner Wine Company, Franciscan
Estate, Merryvale Family of Wines, Chateau St.
Jean and now at Cakebread Cellars, a 50-year-old
winery of established reputation by Jack and
Dolores Cakebread.
Williams: (right)
I’m proud to say that I’ve been inspired by many of
the women who paved the way before me. Ofcourse, one that comes
immediately to mind is Dolores Cakebread as a
pioneer in the industry, particularly for her
forward-thinking approach to wine and food pairings,
a philosophy that was ahead of its time. Her
visionary efforts laid the foundation for Cakebread
Cellars' wine and culinary programs that exist
today.
Another great pioneer here at Cakebread
Cellars is Julianne Laks, who was the first woman
and non-family member to be a winemaker here. Dunkley (below):
When I think about pioneering women, I always go
back to Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin of Veuve
Clicquot. After all, to be a woman in wine in the
1800s must have been tough! People like wine writer
Jancis Robinson in the U.K. and Luciana Vietti in
Piemonte are a real source of inspiration for me for
how they have pushed the industry forward. Given my
background in Western Australia, I’m grateful for
the pioneering spirits of Diana and Vanya Cullen,
too. Not only did this amazing mother and daughter
pave the way for female winemakers like me, but they
rose beyond having their wines simply viewed as
those made by a “female winemaker” to having
world-class wines that truly spoke for themselves. Blum: (right) I’ve
read that Hannah Weinberger was the first female
winemaker in Napa in the 1880s, but my frame of
reference doesn’t go back quite that far! In recent
years, some of the names who come to mind are Zelma
Long, Helen Turley, Heidi Barrett, Mia Klein,
Margaret Davenport, Jennifer Lamb, Celia Welch, Pam
Starr, Genevieve Janssens and others. I’ve been
lucky enough to meet all of these women over the
course of my career. In addition to being talented
and hardworking, they all possess a strong vision, a
determination to keep pushing forward, and an
unwavering resilience in the face of setbacks. They
are truly inspirational, incredibly kind and
supportive of other women in the industry, and each
is as tough as nails.
Is there anything
you believe is distinctive about how women
approach winemaking vs. men? Does “women’s
intuition” play a part? Williams: I have
never detected a pattern that places women on one
end and men on the other. It’s more of a unique
personality choice for each winemaker. Dunkley: Winemaking,
in general, is so often driven by intuition because
you need to trust and have confidence in your
senses. The more experience one has, the more highly
tuned those senses and, thus, intuition are. We make
wines with the thought of how the wine will taste
when drunk, often far into the future. Even in the
vineyards, you have to be proactive rather than
reactive. If you’re reacting, you’re probably
behind, and it can be hard to catch up. Perhaps, as
women, we are more dialed into what our senses tell
us, but I truly think there is no way to fast-track
or cheat the connection between intuition and
experience, regardless of gender. Blum: Winemaking is
all about preferences, and each winemaker approaches
the craft differently, based on their background and
their goal for the wine. I think that philosophy
plays a role more than personal identity. Skills,
experience and personal taste, rather than gender,
shape a winemaker's approach to their craft. That
said, according to a study by Dr. Lucia Gilbert at
Santa Clara University, women currently account for
only 14% of American lead/head winemakers. So, it’s
clear that there are still some barriers to success
as a woman in this industry. In my opinion, whenever
a group is underrepresented in a career relative to
its proportion of society at large, the members of
that group who rise to the top are likely delivering
at a very high level. I think that some women make
great wine not because of anything inherent to their
gender but because of their talents and hard work to
break through the glass ceiling. Is there an organization for women winemakers in California or the U.S. now? Williams: There are
several great groups for women in the industry,
including Women for WineSense, Wine Women and
Batonage Forum, to name a few. We are very
supportive of each other, and I love tasting their
wines because I can always catch little notes of
their personality inside the glass. Dunkley: I have been
loosely involved in a couple of different
organizations for women in wine, but none
specifically for women winemakers. When I first came
to Paso Robles, I was lucky enough to meet Brianne
Engles, the winemaker at Chamisal, who was starting
a tasting group for other women winemakers in the
region and invited me to join. This has become a
great support network and collaborative space for us
to discuss big ideas and challenges and connect with
the broader community. Some of the members have also
been putting together larger tastings for younger
women working in wine production to mentor in our
local community, which is something I would like to
do more of. ❖❖❖ WHY THERE WILL ALWAYS BE AN
ENGLAND! Announcement
from the Dorchester Grill in London: "Dress
code: Although London forever strides ahead,
elegance never goes out of style. So whilst
there’s no strict rule book for our dress code,
The Dorchester is very keen on the habit of
dressing brilliantly. We kindly suggest no
sportswear and wearing smart shorts only by day,
not by night. Guests: Children of all ages are
welcome."
Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
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