MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  May 12,   2024                                                                                              NEWSLETTER

Founded in 1996 

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Pete Hansen, Gertrude Berg and Arlene McQuade in "The Goldbergs" (1951).

HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!

        

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THIS WEEK
PECK OF MILAN

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
TORCELLO RISTORANTE ITALIANO

By John Mariani


THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
CHAPTER NINETEEN

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SHOWCASE CALIFORNIA CABERNETS
WORTH THE BIG BUCKS

By John Mariani



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                                                PECK OF MILAN

By John Mariani



    If you’ve been to Harrods in London, Fauchon in Paris and KaDeWe in Berlin but not Peck in Milan, you have missed one of the grandest food and wine stores in the world. Located near the Duomo cathedral, Peck covers three floors and 3,300 square feet, with a wine cellar stocking 3,500 selections, a “Casa del Formaggio” offering more than 250 dairy products, a butcher with the finest veal and Val di Chiana beef, meats cured specially by Peck, prepared gourmet foods, dozens of olive oils, a daunting array of prosciutto and salami, and a rotisserie section cooking up suckling pig, baby lamb and pheasant, with 200 wines offered by the glass. Weekly menus debut every Thursday. Most of the items they sell are branded by Peck.
        Opened as a grocery in 1883 by a Czech grocer named Franz Peck, it started to grow to its current gargantuan size after the Stoppiani brothers bought the place in 1970. Since 1986 Peck has paired with Takashimaya of Japan to open 18 small shops there. In 2013 Peck was bought by the Marzotto textile family, whose company itself dates back to 1836 and supplies many of Italy’s finest clothing designers. The have further ideas about expansion. 
       
In 1982 Peck opened its vast wine store, which is reached down a curving staircase lined with gigantic bottles of the world’s greatest vintages, all kept under perfect temperature and humidity. One customer, a Turkish businessman, called from his taxi with an order for 50 bottles of Dom Pérignon for dinner that same evening. Done!
        There are three restaurants at various price levels—Al Peck, which is its most elegant, under chef Matteo Vigotti; Piccolo Peck café with a eating counter; and Peck City Life, as well as a very popular cocktail bar, where you can have breakfast. Gelato is made with seasonal ingredients, and the holidays mean a torrent of pastries and cakes, especially its three-layer Absolute Chocolate cake.
        All the food is prepared in what they call their “laboratorio,” and most of the items they sell are branded by Peck.
        Long before Eataly came on the scene in 2002, Peck was devoted to buying the best and the most sustainable ingredients from small producers, farmers and ranchers. Privately owned, Peck does not disclose its total sales, but the on-line business, started during the pandemic years, is growing annually. But most customers— about 30% of Peck’s clientele is foreign—prefer going to the shop as much for the experience of wandering the beautiful floors of foods as to buy the same exact jams or pastries they have for decades.
        The first time I went to what has often been called a “temple of Italian gastronomy,” I was struck by the elegance of everything, from the stately façade to the polished wood and chrome cases to the lighting that accentuates the colors of the foods. Fruit is not just piled into a bin but carefully placed in towers; cheeses look like still life paintings; lobsters are lined up in neat rows, and cakes are small works of Milanese artistry.
       
Owing to its international clientele, many staff speak English, French and other languages, and a tour of the wine cellar is a requisite experience.
        Because almost everything is made on the premises, Peck is careful not to expand much beyond Milan. Where would you get buffalo milk for the mozzarella in Dubai, or perfectly ripened pears in the Bahamas?
        The degree of signature excellence makes some of what Peck sells expensive. On-line you can spend €138 for  small bottle of well-aged Modena balsamico and €120 for baby artichokes in virgin olive oil, but there are also remarkably modest prices for other items, like chestnuts in syrup for €5. Its house-made pastas can be had for less than you’d pay in an American supermarket, like spaghetti and penne for €4.50.
        After 137 years, Peck not only endures, it gets better. Expanding quickly, like Eataly, with 45 branches as far afield as Brazil, Qatar, South Korea and Kuwait, is not an Italian characteristic—Rome was not built in a day, a Maserati takes three months to build and a bespoke suit by Sartoria Napoletana will take weeks to craft. Patience is still a virtue among the Italian artisans at Peck, even when it comes to a panino sandwich made with its own cured pork.
 




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NEW YORK CORNER

TORCELLO RISTORANTE ITALIANO
2382 Boston Post Road
Larchmont NY
914-833-1118



By John Mariani




    Larchmont is one of those suburban Gold Coast towns in Westchester County that was an easy-to-reach summer resort town for wealthy New Yorkers who built mansions you can still see amidst the wooded areas along the Long Island Sound. It has been home to dramatists Edward Albee and Moss Hart, film director Ang Lee and comedian Joan Rivers, and an episode of “Succession” was filmed in the village’s St. John’s Episcopal Church. 
       The town has a significant French population and once had one of the finest country French restaurants in America, La Panetière. But most of the eating places around town are fairly staid and predictable. Torcello, on Boston Post Road, is a two-year-old, very good Italian restaurant that is named after a small island near Venice where Hemingway used to go duck hunting.
          Partners Imer Rraci and chef Avni Brahimaj, from Kosovo, took over a previous Italian restaurant in a spacious house of white walls and archways hung with black and white photos of Italy, an antique mirror, and dark wood floor tiles. The lighting lends conviviality, and tables are nicely draped in white linens with small candles.
        Rraci is a 30-year veteran of the hospitality business, having worked for the former Giambelli’s in Manhattan and Valbella in Old Greenwich, and you will be greeted with sincere warmth and professionalism by a well-trained staff.
        The menu follows the traditions of upscale Italian restaurants in the Tri-State area, and Brahimiaj is clearly committed to purchasing the finest ingredients, apparent in the glistening tuna tartare with avocado and chips ($18). There are two piadine flatbreads ($16) that make for a good nibble, one with figs, goat’s cheese, honey and virgin olive oil, the other with pears, Gorgonzola, pecans, arugula and a balsamic glaze (right).
        Four of us happily dug into a rich dish of eggplant rollatine (below, right) with creamy ricotta, spinach and a light tomato sauce ($15), perfect for a springtime evening. Clams oreganata ($17) were tender, piping hot with seasoned breadcrumbs.
       Pastas are sumptuously served, and the sweet and acid-balanced tomato sauce is among the best in the region, properly seasoned, the right texture and not too much on the plate. The grandest of the pastas was a half-lobster sprawled atop linguine with a chunky, well-spiced marinara sauce ($38).  Mushroom ravioli came dressed with porcini and truffle sauce ($26), and, nicely nuanced with meat, vegetables and tomatoes was a hearty bolognese sauce mixed with house-made rigatoni ($26; left).
           Among our entrees was a lavishly presented veal chop parmigiana in a rich moat of vodka sauce ($46), and veal Martini lightly breaded with Parmigiano and served in a tangy lemon and white wine sauce ($30). I might have tried the pollo scarpariello ($26), but it was boneless chicken, which can be short of flavor. The fish of the day was swordfish ($40), somewhat overcooked that evening in a lackluster brown sauce.
         Desserts ($9-$14) are predictable but very delectable, too, including chocolate tartufo truffles, ever-lovable New York cheesecake, a rich dark molten lava cake, and very good crème brûlée.
         The wine list, with 65 selections, has most of the Italian favorites.
         Torcello adds measurably to Larchmont’s otherwise staid dining scene, and the hospitality and ambience of the dining room and service is key to understanding its popularity well beyond the village.

 

Open for dinner nightly.

 






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THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
By  John Mariani





CHAPTER NINETEEN


  

            Katie and David turned to see an old cleric walking slowly towards them, slightly stooped, his hands folded behind the back of his black cassock. His face and neck were wrinkled, his hair white, his eyes behind thick spectacles.
                  “As a matter of fact we are,” said Katie. “Are you the pastor of the church here?”
                  “No, there’s no pastor anymore,” he said with a decided brogue. “It’s too small, with too few parishioners. I come by to say Mass on Sunday for those who still come. My name’s Father Draney. Are you American tourists?”
                  Katie said, “Actually we are Americans but I’m a journalist and this is my associate, David Greco, and we’re researching a story on the Magdalene Laundries.”              
 
                “And the murders, I suppose? Terrible, terrible thing. Very sad.”
                 Katie and David nodded. Katie asked, “Are the graves still visible, Father?”
                  The priest shook his head. “Ah, no, they’re gone.”
                  David asked, “I’m sorry, Father, but how could they be . . . gone?”
                  “Well, I wasn’t here when the burials took place—they’d been going on for a hundred years—but this place has always had a horrible reputation going back centuries. Had a history of body snatchers in the last century doing their dirty work as soon as a body was buried. For a long time they had to have a watchman at all times.”
                  “Is there one now?” asked David, hoping to be able to speak with him.
                  “Nah, nobody but a part-time caretaker who comes in now and again.”
         “Well, do you know what happened to the bodies?”
         “I do, I do.”
         Katie and David waited for an answer.
         “About ten years ago the Sisters of Our Lady of Charity owned the property, and they decided to sell it to a developer, who had to obtain an exhumation license to dig up the ground, and I hear the Sisters fought that like banshees. They knew what was down there, and in 1993 the Department of the Environment found out what it was.
        “So, it was a shockin’ revelation, most of them women and even a few infants. One hundred fifty-five bodies they found. A horrible business. One of the girls was buried here as recently as 1987. I remember her name, Bridget O’Neill.
                  “They could only identify some of the bodies. The rest they called ‘no trace women,’ and gave them names, ‘Magdalene of Lourdes’ and ‛Magdalene of St. Teresa,’ and so on. All of them, like the Laundries themselves, named after the adulterous woman Christ saved from bein’ stoned to death. True Irish irony at its worst.”
        
Katie was dumbfounded. David asked, “What happened to the bodies after that?”
              Father Draney crossed himself and said, “They were brought to Glasvenin Cemetery (left) in Dublin and cremated. And the developer moved in and started to build immediately after.”
             The words “destroy the evidence” ran through David’s mind.
         “That’s all I know about the dirty business,” sad the priest. “And for most people around here, that’s all they want to know. They like to think it’s all over. Nothin’ to be done.”
        His words echoed those of the taxi driver who’d taken the Americans out to the graveyard.
          Realizing there was nothing more to see—and nothing to see at Glasvenin Cemetery—Katie and David thanked the old priest and walked back to the entrance of the graveyard, finding no trace of what had been a series of horrific crimes over nearly a century. 
       
They got a taxi back to town, but neither had an appetite for lunch, so they walked around Dublin until the sad taint of Drumcondra wore off.  That night they had a quiet dinner and made plans for the next day,     when they would split up, she to interview an authority on the Laundries, he to connect with Inspector Max Finger at the Dublin Police.

 

                                                                        *                     *                         *

 

                  When Katie came down to breakfast in the hotel dining room, David was already there, looking very grim.
                  “What’s up?” asked Katie, pulling out her chair.
                  “This,” he replied, handing her the day’s newspaper, whose headline read, 
THIRD NUN MURDERED IN ONE WEEK.”
                  Katie gasped and looked up.
                  “Oh, My God, David, I can’t believe it.”
                  “Whoever did it doesn’t seem like he’s going to stop any time soon.
                  Katie read on, finding that the murder had been of a Sister of Charity named Clare Donovan, who was known to have been one of the nuns at the Dublin Magdalene Laundries in the 1980s.
            The paper said, “The crime was as grisly as the other two involving nuns, one of whom had been strangled with a rosary, the other stabbed with a schoolroom pointer through the heart. In this latest case, police contended that Sister Donovan ‘was apparently the victim of having been savagely beaten on the face with what seemed to be a glove attached to some kind of sharp abrasive.’ According to the coroner’s report, the victim’s face was unrecognizable due to bloody lacerations and that the cause of death was from repeated blows to the head.”
                  Knowing what David’s answer would be, Katie asked, “What the hell is going on?”
                  “Sounds to me like a very vengeful member of the Magdalene Laundries trying to get back at the nuns who tortured those women.”
                  “You mean one of the women forced to work there?”
                  “Probably, but it could’ve been one of the nuns or ex-nuns murdering her colleagues out of deep remorse. Or, it could’ve been a relative. Father, mother, brother getting back at what the nuns did to their daughter or sister.”
       “So where do we go from here? Obviously the police will be hell bent to get to the bottom of this.”
         “Absolutely, which is why I have to get to Inspector Max Finger ASAP, before he gets too involved to give me any time. Matter of fact, I’m due to meet him in twenty minutes, so I better haul my ass.”
aid Katie. “You go. I’m off to visit this woman who’s supposed to know the whole history of the Laundries. Meet you, when?”
         “Let’s say three o’clock. Here.”
         David could see Katie was very shaken by the news and knew she was processing in her mind her own past and connections to the Catholic Church. As for himself, David had long ago left the Church behind—the typical “lapsed Catholic” who felt bound only by cultural ties to his Italian-American Christian heritage. 
       
He hoped that Inspector Max Finger would have no compunctions about going as deep as was necessary to find a killer who might well have the public’s sentiment on his or her side.That is, if Finger was even assigned to the case.

 





©
John Mariani, 2018




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A CHEESE PRESERVER
THAT WORKS AMAZINGLY WELL


I don't often write about food products or utensils, but an item has come my way that I was at first very skeptical about then found to be a remarkable way of preserving cheeses  from day to day and week to week. It's called the CHEESE GROTTO, designed by Jessica Sennett,and it is described as a "humidor for cheese." When I got it, all it looked like was a wooden box with a slide-out plastic front. Inside is a slab of clay brick. Big deal, I thought. Another gimmick. Yet once you stick it in the refrigerator, the breathable wood allows in oxygen and the clay brick acts as a humidifier. Instructions say you can leave in on the counter at room temperature. So, I let it sit (in the fridge) and found that day after day the cheeses kept the way they do in natural caves, with the flavors and textures intact and no off aromas.
        Sennett has been a cheese maker and monger and manager of cheese aging caves, so she had the expertise to make this for home use. She also runs a monthly cheese subscription. The basic Cheese Grotto runs $85 but they come in larger sizes for $125, $250 and $350.  https://cheesegrotto.com/pages/cheese-grotto

 



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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR



SHOWCASE CALIFORNIA CABERNETS
WORTH THE BIG BUCKS

By John Mariani





 

 

         Searching out the best Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa Valley is increasingly difficult, and the best parcels yielding the best fruit are expensive. Once crushed, the grapes are in the hands of winemakers who assess the strengths and weaknesses of the wines. Those they deem their very best efforts are often given special names and labels, as well as prices to match their rarity. Here are some that are as expensive as many Bordeaux and show an assertive California character.

 

FLORA SPRINGS FLORA’S LEGACY 2016 ($215). Third-generation family member Nat Komes pays homage to his grandmother Flora Komes, inspiration for Flora Springs, who was born in Hawaii and  descended from Hawaiian royalty. The 2016 vintage crafted by winemaker Paul Steineuer combines lots from the producer’s Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena estate vineyards to produce a big bodied Cab rich in dark fruit and spice, with its tannins softening, but they could use more time in the bottle. It is 100% Cab, aged for 19 months in both French and American barrels, with just 320 cases produced, so only three bottles per consumer may be purchased on the winery’s website.

 

DOMAINE CURRY FOUNDERS BLEND 2021 ($80). This is the first vintage as part of The Prisoner Wine Company Portfolio, co-founded by Ayesha Curry and Sydel Curry Lee.  The inspiration for Domaine Curry occurred over a 2015 dinner with a toast to the family’s women and the Bible’s Proverbs 31 about women of “noble character.” The vintage is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. After delivery of the grapes to the winery, they were given a short cold soak and inoculated with yeast, then put into 100% new oak. The alcohol level is a bold 15.2%

 



MT. BRAVE 2019 (1$25). The press release advises you “Be bold, be brave, but fasten your seat belts,” and this Mt. Veeder Cab is a no-holds-barred explosion of dense flavors. The terroir is known for its rocky soil and steep slopes, with some of the coolest temperatures in Napa Valley, and harvest went into mid-November. Winemaker Chris Carpenter began development of Mt. Brave in 2007, so he has long experience bringing the best out of the ground and grapes. The acids keep this a vibrant wine with balanced tannins and fruit.

 


FREEMARK ABBEY SYCAMORE VINEYARD 2018 ($200). The price gets into the higher elevations of California Cabs, and you may have to wait for it fully to mature (the winery says it will be good for 20-30 years).  The 24-acre Sycamore Vineyard is near the Mayacamas Mountains, rich in loam,  and the wine has the flavor of what they call “Rutherford dust” in the tannins—reminiscent of the massive Cabs made back in the 1980s in Napa.

 

DALLE VALLE 2020 ($250). A fine intensity and lovely aromatics are the hallmarks of Dalle Valle Cabs, this one from 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. This has long been the estate’s flagship wine. There was an early harvest in 2020, and the terroir’s composition of iron from volcanic soils provides a backbone and steeliness, so winemaker Maya Dalla Valle says that peak drinking is for the next 10 to 15 years.

 

ELEVEN:ELEVEN XI 2020 ($90). This proprietary Cab is their third vintage sourced from 11:11 & Destin Vineyards in the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley. It’s a huge 100% Cab at 15.1% alcohol, aged for 22 months in 100% French oak and 80% new oak, which provides a  caramel edge. Though the plantings themselves are not old, this shows what can be achieved in a very few years to develop a deep, dark flavor profile with remarkable nuance.

 

PAUL HOBBS COOMBSVILLE 2018 ($120). Paul Hobbs winery makes a good point when they say, “When it comes to Napa Cabernet, the wines are often consumed while they are still young. But the best examples can develop additional complexity in the cellar, revealing more nuance and supple tannins. Finding top aged Cabernet is not always easy though.” The fact that Paul Hobbs’s Coombsville 2018 is now into its sixth year makes it eminently drinkable now and for years to come. The 2018 was the first release to carry the Coombsville appellation from one of Napa’s coolest climates, near San Pablo Bay, and it is a blend from Nathan Coombs Estate and Flat Rock, aged for 20 months in 69 percent new French oak.

 

QUILT 2018 RESERVE ($110). After harvest and fermentation, the wine was tasted progressively and only the very best two percent was set aside for the Reserve, which underwent further aging in new French oak. This allowed for elements of fruit, tannin and acidity to knit and for the oak to tame down and provide a pleasing sweet element of richness. The name Quilt comes from the fact that its vineyards are a patchwork from which the grapes are chosen and blended by winemaker Joe Wagner. They also make a 2021 vintage for $55.

 

SULLIVAN RUTHERFORD COEUR DE VIGNE 2021 ($100). The name means "Heart of the Vine," because the Sullivan estate is located  in the "heart" of Napa Valley. Winemaker Jeff Cole blended 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot in a classic Bordeaux style. A small vintage coming from a mild  summer—yields were reduced by 30%—it was nevertheless of very high quality, with 2,600 cases made. The structure is multi-dimensional, still a bit tannic but yielding, and will be excellent this fall for the heartiest of dishes. Twenty months of aging in new French oak gives it ballast and a reasonable 14.8% alcohol.











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ADVENTURES IN FOOD WRITING:
CHEESE DIVISION


Write-ups in Gambero Rosso:



Falerio Pecorino Onirocep 2016 - Pantaleone

What momentum! The vintage exalts a profile played on significant acidity tension on which it builds a register of spices and flowers. It has citrusy grit and a tense and savory palate, it is not even halfway through its evolutionary journey. Impressive.

Offida Pecorino 2013 - De Angelis

Rich, full, muscular. Notes of dried fruit, peach, and toasted almond anticipate a creamy and well-stretched palate, fat and satisfying. It manages to find an unexpected liveliness, with a very inviting soft fruit. Perfect with well-spiced white meats.

Offida Pecorino Io sono Gaia non sono Lucrezia 2012 - Le Caniette

Gaia loves spices: white pepper, camphor, even ginger. Then come the medicinal herbs, the menthol note, and a mouth that changes abruptly. It leaves behind linearity, ignites and restarts, with a complex and deep articulation.





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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2024




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