Pete Hansen, Gertrude Berg and Arlene
McQuade in "The Goldbergs" (1951).
HAPPY MOTHER'S
DAY!
❖❖❖
THIS WEEK
PECK OF MILAN By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER
TORCELLO RISTORANTE ITALIANO
By John Mariani
THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
CHAPTER NINETEEN
By John Mariani
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SHOWCASE CALIFORNIA CABERNETS
WORTH THE BIG BUCKS By John Mariani
❖❖❖
PECK OF MILAN
By John
Mariani
If you’ve
been to Harrods in London, Fauchon in Paris
and KaDeWe in Berlin but not Peck in Milan,
you have missed one of the grandest food and
wine stores in the world. Located near the
Duomo cathedral, Peck covers three floors
and 3,300 square feet, with a wine cellar
stocking 3,500 selections, a “Casa del
Formaggio” offering more than 250 dairy
products, a butcher with the finest veal and
Val di Chiana beef, meats cured specially by
Peck, prepared gourmet foods, dozens of
olive oils, a daunting array of prosciutto
and salami, and a rotisserie section cooking
up suckling pig, baby lamb and pheasant,
with 200 wines offered by the glass. Weekly
menus debut every Thursday. Most of the
items they sell are branded by Peck. Opened
as a grocery in 1883 by a Czech grocer named
Franz Peck, it started to grow to its current
gargantuan size after the Stoppiani brothers
bought the place in 1970. Since 1986 Peck has
paired with Takashimaya of Japan to open 18
small shops there. In 2013 Peck was bought by
the Marzotto textile family, whose company
itself dates back to 1836 and supplies many of
Italy’s finest clothing designers. The have
further ideas about expansion. In
1982 Peck opened its vast wine store, which is
reached down a curving staircase lined with
gigantic bottles of the world’s greatest
vintages, all kept under perfect temperature
and humidity. One customer, a Turkish
businessman, called from his taxi with an
order for 50 bottles of Dom Pérignon for
dinner that same evening. Done! There are three restaurants at various
price levels—Al Peck, which is its most
elegant, under chef Matteo Vigotti; Piccolo
Peck café with a eating counter; and Peck City
Life, as well as a very popular cocktail bar,
where you can have breakfast. Gelato is made
with seasonal ingredients, and the holidays
mean a torrent of pastries and cakes,
especially its three-layer Absolute Chocolate
cake. All the food is prepared in what they
call their “laboratorio,” and most of the
items they sell are branded by Peck. Long before Eataly came on the scene in
2002, Peck was devoted to buying the best and
the most sustainable ingredients from small
producers, farmers and ranchers. Privately
owned, Peck does not disclose its total sales,
but the on-line business, started during the
pandemic years, is growing annually. But most
customers— about 30% of Peck’s clientele is
foreign—prefer going to the shop as much for
the experience of wandering the beautiful
floors of foods as to buy the same exact jams
or pastries they have for decades. The first time I went to what has often
been called a “temple of Italian gastronomy,”
I was struck by the elegance of everything,
from the stately façade to the polished wood
and chrome cases to the lighting that
accentuates the colors of the foods. Fruit is
not just piled into a bin but carefully placed
in towers; cheeses look like still life
paintings; lobsters are lined up in neat rows,
and cakes are small works of Milanese
artistry. Owing
to its international clientele, many staff
speak English, French and other languages, and
a tour of the wine cellar is a requisite
experience. Because almost everything is made on
the premises, Peck is careful not to expand
much beyond Milan. Where would you get buffalo
milk for the mozzarella in Dubai, or perfectly
ripened pears in the Bahamas? The degree of signature excellence
makes some of what Peck sells expensive.
On-line you can spend €138 forsmall
bottle of well-aged Modena balsamico and €120
for baby artichokes in virgin olive oil, but
there are also remarkably modest prices for
other items, like chestnuts in syrup for €5.
Its house-made pastas can be had for less than
you’d pay in an American supermarket, like
spaghetti and penne for €4.50. After
137 years, Peck not only endures, it gets
better. Expanding quickly, like Eataly, with
45 branches as far afield as Brazil, Qatar,
South Korea and Kuwait, is not an Italian
characteristic—Rome was not built in a day, a
Maserati takes three months to build and a
bespoke suit by Sartoria Napoletana will take
weeks to craft. Patience is still a virtue
among the Italian artisans at Peck, even when
it comes to a panino sandwich made with its
own cured pork.
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
TORCELLO
RISTORANTE ITALIANO
2382
Boston Post Road
Larchmont NY
914-833-1118
By John
Mariani
Larchmont is one of those
suburban Gold Coast towns in Westchester County
that was an easy-to-reach summer resort town for
wealthy New Yorkers who built mansions you can
still see amidst the wooded areas along the Long
Island Sound. It has been home to dramatists
Edward Albee and Moss Hart, film director Ang
Lee and comedian Joan Rivers, and an episode of
“Succession” was filmed in the village’s St.
John’s Episcopal Church. The
town has a significant French population and once
had one of the finest country French restaurants
in America, La Panetière. But most of the eating
places around town are fairly staid and
predictable. Torcello, on Boston Post Road, is a
two-year-old, very good Italian restaurant that is
named after a small island near Venice where
Hemingway used to go duck hunting. Partners
Imer Rraci and chef Avni Brahimaj, from Kosovo,
took over a previous Italian restaurant in a
spacious house of white walls and archways hung
with black and white photos of Italy, an antique
mirror, and dark wood floor tiles. The lighting
lends conviviality, and tables are nicely draped
in white linens with small candles. Rraci is a 30-year veteran of the
hospitality business, having worked for the former
Giambelli’s in Manhattan and Valbella in Old
Greenwich, and you will be greeted with sincere
warmth and professionalism by a well-trained
staff. The menu follows the traditions of upscale
Italian restaurants in the Tri-State area, and
Brahimiaj is clearly committed to purchasing the
finest ingredients, apparent in the glistening
tuna tartare with avocado and chips ($18). There
are two piadine
flatbreads ($16) that make for a good nibble, one
with figs, goat’s cheese, honey and virgin olive
oil, the other with pears, Gorgonzola, pecans,
arugula and a balsamic glaze (right). Four of us happily dug into a rich dish of
eggplant rollatine
(below, right) with creamy ricotta, spinach
and a light tomato sauce ($15), perfect for a
springtime evening. Clams oreganata
($17) were tender, piping hot with seasoned
breadcrumbs. Pastas
are sumptuously served, and the sweet and
acid-balanced tomato sauce is among the best in
the region, properly seasoned, the right texture
and not too much on the plate. The grandest of the
pastas was a half-lobster sprawled atop linguine
with a chunky, well-spiced marinara sauce ($38).Mushroom
ravioli came dressed with porcini and
truffle sauce ($26), and, nicely nuanced with
meat, vegetables and tomatoes was a hearty
bolognese sauce mixed with house-made rigatoni
($26; left). Among
our entrees was a lavishly presented veal chop
parmigiana in a rich moat of vodka sauce ($46),
and veal Martini lightly breaded with Parmigiano
and served in a tangy lemon and white wine sauce
($30). I might have tried the pollo scarpariello
($26), but it was boneless chicken, which can be
short of flavor. The fish of the day was swordfish
($40), somewhat overcooked that evening in a
lackluster brown sauce. Desserts ($9-$14) are predictable but very
delectable, too, including chocolate tartufo
truffles, ever-lovable New York cheesecake, a rich
dark molten lava cake, and very good crème brûlée. The wine list, with 65 selections, has most
of the Italian favorites. Torcello adds measurably to
Larchmont’s otherwise staid dining scene, and the
hospitality and ambience of the dining room and
service is key to understanding its popularity
well beyond the village.
Open for dinner nightly.
❖❖❖
THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES By John Mariani
CHAPTER NINETEEN
Katie and
David turned to see an old cleric walking
slowly towards them, slightly stooped, his
hands folded behind the back of his black
cassock. His face and neck were wrinkled,
his hair white, his eyes behind thick spectacles. “As a matter of fact we are,” said Katie.
“Are you the pastor of the church here?” “No, there’s no pastor anymore,” he said
with a decided brogue. “It’s too small, with too
few parishioners. I come by to say Mass on Sunday
for those who still come. My name’s Father Draney.
Are you American tourists?” Katie
said, “Actually we are Americans but I’m a
journalist and this is my associate, David Greco,
and we’re researching a story on the Magdalene
Laundries.”
“And the murders, I suppose?
Terrible, terrible thing. Very sad.” Katie and David nodded. Katie asked, “Are
the graves still visible, Father?” The priest shook his head. “Ah, no, they’re
gone.” David asked, “I’m sorry, Father, but how
could they be . . . gone?” “Well, I wasn’t here when the burials took
place—they’d been going on for a hundred years—but
this place has always had a horrible reputation
going back centuries. Had a history of body
snatchers in the last century doing their dirty
work as soon as a body was buried. For a long time
they had to have a watchman at all times.” “Is there one now?” asked David, hoping to
be able to speak with him. “Nah, nobody but a part-time caretaker who
comes in now and again.” “Well, do you know what happened to the
bodies?” “I do, I do.” Katie and David waited for an answer. “About ten years ago the Sisters of Our
Lady of Charity owned the property, and they
decided to sell it to a developer, who had to
obtain an exhumation license to dig up the ground,
and I hear the Sisters fought that like banshees.
They knew what was down there, and in 1993 the
Department of the Environment found out what it
was. “So, it was a shockin’ revelation, most of
them women and even a few infants. One hundred
fifty-five bodies they found. A horrible business.
One of the girls was buried here as recently as
1987. I remember her name, Bridget O’Neill. “They could only identify some of the
bodies. The rest they called ‘no trace women,’ and
gave them names, ‘Magdalene of Lourdes’ and
‛Magdalene of St. Teresa,’ and so on. All of them,
like the Laundries themselves, named after the
adulterous woman Christ saved from bein’ stoned to
death. True Irish irony at its worst.” Katie was dumbfounded. David asked, “What
happened to the bodies after that?” Father Draney crossed himself
and said, “They were brought to Glasvenin Cemetery
(left) in Dublin and cremated. And the
developer moved in and started to build
immediately after.” The words “destroy the evidence” ran
through David’s mind. “That’s all I know about the dirty
business,” sad the priest. “And for most people
around here, that’s all they want to know. They
like to think it’s all over. Nothin’ to be done.”
His words echoed those of the taxi driver
who’d taken the Americans out to the graveyard. Realizing
there was nothing more to see—and nothing to see
at Glasvenin Cemetery—Katie and David thanked the
old priest and walked back to the entrance of the
graveyard, finding no trace of what had been a
series of horrific crimes over nearly a century. They
got a taxi back to town, but neither had an
appetite for lunch, so they walked around Dublin
until the sad taint of Drumcondra wore off.That
night they had a quiet dinner and made plans for
the next day,when they would split up, she to interview
an authority on the Laundries, he to connect with
Inspector Max Finger at the Dublin Police.
***
When Katie came down to breakfast
in the hotel dining room, David was already there,
looking very grim. “What’s up?” asked Katie, pulling out her
chair. “This,” he replied, handing her the day’s
newspaper, whose headline read,“THIRD NUN MURDERED IN ONE WEEK.” Katie gasped and looked up. “Oh, My God, David, I can’t believe it.” “Whoever did it doesn’t seem like he’s
going to stop any time soon. Katie read on, finding that the murder had
been of a Sister of Charity named Clare Donovan,
who was known to have been one of the nuns at the
Dublin Magdalene Laundries in the 1980s. The paper said, “The crime was as grisly as
the other two involving nuns, one of whom had been
strangled with a rosary, the other stabbed with a
schoolroom pointer through the heart. In this
latest case, police contended that Sister Donovan
‘was apparently the victim of having been savagely
beaten on the face with what seemed to be a glove
attached to some kind of sharp abrasive.’
According to the coroner’s report, the victim’s
face was unrecognizable due to bloody lacerations
and that the cause of death was from repeated
blows to the head.” Knowing what David’s answer would be, Katie
asked, “What the hell is going on?” “Sounds to me like a very vengeful member
of the Magdalene Laundries trying to get back at
the nuns who tortured those women.” “You mean one of the women forced to work
there?” “Probably, but it could’ve been one of the
nuns or ex-nuns murdering her colleagues out of
deep remorse. Or, it could’ve been a relative.
Father, mother, brother getting back at what the
nuns did to their daughter or sister.” “So where do we go from here? Obviously the
police will be hell bent to get to the bottom of
this.” “Absolutely, which is why I have to get to
Inspector Max Finger ASAP, before he gets too
involved to give me any time. Matter of fact, I’m
due to meet him in twenty minutes, so I better
haul my ass.”
aid Katie. “You go. I’m off to visit this woman
who’s supposed to know the whole history of the
Laundries. Meet you, when?” “Let’s say three o’clock. Here.” David could see Katie was very shaken by
the news and knew she was processing in her mind
her own past and connections to the Catholic
Church. As for himself, David had long ago left
the Church behind—the typical “lapsed Catholic”
who felt bound only by cultural ties to his
Italian-American Christian heritage. He hoped that Inspector Max
Finger would have no compunctions about going as
deep as was necessary to find a killer who might
well have the public’s sentiment on his or her
side.That is, if Finger
was even assigned to the case.
I don't often write about food products or utensils,
but an item has come my way that I was at first very
skeptical about then found to be a remarkable way of
preserving cheeses from day to day and week to
week. It's called the CHEESE GROTTO, designed by
Jessica Sennett,and it is described as a "humidor for
cheese." When I got it, all it looked like was a
wooden box with a slide-out plastic front. Inside is a
slab of clay brick. Big deal, I thought. Another
gimmick. Yet once you stick it in the refrigerator,
the breathable wood allows in oxygen and the clay
brick acts as a humidifier. Instructions say you can
leave in on the counter at room temperature. So, I let
it sit (in the fridge) and found that day after day
the cheeses kept the way they do in natural caves,
with the flavors and textures intact and no off
aromas.
Sennett has been
a cheese maker and monger and manager of cheese aging
caves, so she had the expertise to make this for home
use. She also runs a monthly cheese subscription. The
basic Cheese Grotto runs $85 but they come in larger
sizes for $125, $250 and $350.
https://cheesegrotto.com/pages/cheese-grotto
❖❖❖
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SHOWCASE
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS
WORTH THE BIG BUCKS
By John Mariani
Searching out the best Cabernet Sauvignon
in Napa Valley is increasingly difficult, and the
best parcels yielding the best fruit are expensive.
Once crushed, the grapes are in the hands of
winemakers who assess the strengths and weaknesses
of the wines. Those they deem their very best
efforts are often given special names and labels, as
well as prices to match their rarity. Here are some
that are as expensive as many Bordeaux and show an
assertive California character.
FLORA SPRINGS FLORA’S
LEGACY 2016 ($215). Third-generation
family member Nat Komes pays homage to his
grandmother Flora Komes, inspiration for Flora
Springs, who was born in Hawaii anddescended
from Hawaiian royalty. The 2016 vintage crafted by
winemaker Paul Steineuer combines lots from the
producer’s Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena
estate vineyards to produce a big bodied Cab rich
in dark fruit and spice, with its tannins
softening, but they could use more time in the
bottle. It is 100% Cab, aged for 19 months in both
French and American barrels, with just 320 cases
produced, so only three bottles per consumer may
be purchased on the winery’s website.
DOMAINE
CURRY FOUNDERS BLEND 2021 ($80). This is the first vintage as
part of The Prisoner Wine Company Portfolio,
co-founded by Ayesha Curry
and Sydel Curry Lee.The inspiration for Domaine Curry occurred
over a 2015 dinner with a toast to the family’s
women and the Bible’s Proverbs 31 about women of
“noble character.” The vintage is composed of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and
Cabernet Franc. After delivery of the grapes to
the winery, they were given a short cold soak and
inoculated with yeast, then put into 100% new oak.
The alcohol level is a bold 15.2%
MT. BRAVE 2019 (1$25). The press release advises you
“Be bold, be brave, but fasten your seat belts,” and
this Mt. Veeder Cab is a no-holds-barred explosion
of dense flavors. The terroir is known for its rocky
soil and steep slopes, with some of the coolest
temperatures in Napa Valley, and harvest went into
mid-November. Winemaker Chris Carpenter began
development of Mt. Brave in 2007, so he has long
experience bringing the best out of the ground and
grapes. The acids keep this a vibrant wine with
balanced tannins and fruit.
FREEMARK
ABBEY
SYCAMORE VINEYARD 2018 ($200). The price gets into
the higher elevations of California Cabs, and you
may have to wait for it fully to mature (the winery
says it will be good for 20-30 years). The 24-acre
Sycamore Vineyard is near the Mayacamas Mountains,
rich in loam,and
the wine has the flavor of what they call
“Rutherford dust” in the tannins—reminiscent of the
massive Cabs made back in the 1980s in Napa.
DALLE
VALLE 2020 ($250). A fine intensity and lovely
aromatics are the hallmarks of Dalle Valle Cabs,
this one from 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet
Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. This has long been the
estate’s flagship wine. There was an early harvest
in 2020, and the terroir’s composition of iron from
volcanic soils provides a backbone and steeliness,
so winemaker Maya Dalla Valle says that peak
drinking is for the next 10 to 15 years.
ELEVEN:ELEVEN
XI 2020 ($90). This proprietary Cab is their third vintage sourced from
11:11 & Destin Vineyards in the Oak Knoll
District of Napa Valley. It’s a huge 100% Cab at
15.1% alcohol, aged for 22 months in 100% French
oak and 80% new oak, which provides acaramel
edge. Though the plantings themselves are not old,
this shows what can be achieved in a very few
years to develop a deep, dark flavor profile with
remarkable nuance.
PAUL
HOBBS COOMBSVILLE 2018 ($120). Paul Hobbs winery
makes a good point when they say, “When it comes to Napa
Cabernet, the wines are often consumed while they
are still young. But the best examples can develop
additional complexity in the cellar, revealing
more nuance and supple tannins. Finding top aged
Cabernet is not always easy though.” The fact that
Paul Hobbs’s Coombsville 2018 is now into its
sixth year makes it eminently drinkable now and
for years to come. The 2018 was the first release
to carry the Coombsville appellation from one of
Napa’s coolest climates, near San Pablo Bay, and
it is a blend from Nathan Coombs Estate and Flat
Rock, aged for 20 months in 69 percent new French
oak.
QUILT 2018 RESERVE ($110). After
harvest and fermentation, the wine was tasted
progressively and only the very best two percent was
set aside for the Reserve, which underwent further
aging in new French oak. This allowed for elements
of fruit, tannin and acidity to knit and for the oak
to tame down and provide a pleasing sweet element of
richness. The name Quilt comes from the fact that
its vineyards are a patchwork from which the grapes
are chosen and blended by winemaker Joe Wagner. They
also make a 2021 vintage for $55.
SULLIVAN
RUTHERFORD COEUR DE VIGNE 2021 ($100). The name
means "Heart of the
Vine," because the Sullivan estate is locatedin the
"heart" of Napa Valley. Winemaker Jeff Cole
blended 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 6%
Petit Verdot in a classic Bordeaux style. A small
vintage coming from a mildsummer—yields
were reduced by 30%—it was nevertheless of very
high quality, with 2,600 cases made. The structure
is multi-dimensional, still a bit tannic but
yielding, and will be excellent this fall for the
heartiest of dishes. Twenty months of aging in new
French oak gives it ballast and a reasonable 14.8%
alcohol.
❖❖❖
ADVENTURES IN FOOD WRITING:
CHEESE DIVISION
Write-ups in Gambero Rosso:
Falerio Pecorino
Onirocep 2016 - Pantaleone
What
momentum! The vintage exalts a profile played on
significant acidity tension on which it builds a
register of spices and flowers. It has citrusy grit
and a tense and savory palate, it is not even
halfway through its evolutionary journey.
Impressive.
Offida Pecorino
2013 - De Angelis
Rich, full,
muscular. Notes of dried fruit, peach, and toasted
almond anticipate a creamy and well-stretched
palate, fat and satisfying. It manages to find an
unexpected liveliness, with a very inviting soft
fruit. Perfect with well-spiced white meats.
Offida Pecorino Io
sono Gaia non sono Lucrezia 2012 - Le Caniette
Gaia loves
spices: white pepper, camphor, even ginger. Then
come the medicinal herbs, the menthol note, and a
mouth that changes abruptly. It leaves behind
linearity, ignites and restarts, with a complex and
deep articulation.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.