MARIANI’S Virtual
Gourmet
ARCHIVE Pete Hansen, Gertrude Berg and Arlene McQuade in "The Goldbergs" (1951). HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!
❖❖❖
THIS WEEK PECK OF MILAN By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER TORCELLO RISTORANTE ITALIANO By John Mariani THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES CHAPTER NINETEEN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR SHOWCASE CALIFORNIA CABERNETS WORTH THE BIG BUCKS By John Mariani ❖❖❖
PECK OF MILAN By John Mariani If you’ve
been to Harrods in London, Fauchon in Paris
and KaDeWe in Berlin but not Peck in Milan,
you have missed one of the grandest food and
wine stores in the world. Located near the
Duomo cathedral, Peck covers three floors
and 3,300 square feet, with a wine cellar
stocking 3,500 selections, a “Casa del
Formaggio” offering more than 250 dairy
products, a butcher with the finest veal and
Val di Chiana beef, meats cured specially by
Peck, prepared gourmet foods, dozens of
olive oils, a daunting array of prosciutto
and salami, and a rotisserie section cooking
up suckling pig, baby lamb and pheasant,
with 200 wines offered by the glass. Weekly
menus debut every Thursday. Most of the
items they sell are branded by Peck. ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER TORCELLO
RISTORANTE ITALIANO
2382 Boston Post Road Larchmont NY 914-833-1118 By John
Mariani
Larchmont is one of those
suburban Gold Coast towns in Westchester County
that was an easy-to-reach summer resort town for
wealthy New Yorkers who built mansions you can
still see amidst the wooded areas along the Long
Island Sound. It has been home to dramatists
Edward Albee and Moss Hart, film director Ang
Lee and comedian Joan Rivers, and an episode of
“Succession” was filmed in the village’s St.
John’s Episcopal Church. Open for dinner nightly. ❖❖❖
THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES By John Mariani CHAPTER NINETEEN
Katie and
David turned to see an old cleric walking
slowly towards them, slightly stooped, his
hands folded behind the back of his black
cassock. His face and neck were wrinkled,
his hair white, his eyes behind thick spectacles.
*
*
*
When Katie came down to breakfast
in the hotel dining room, David was already there,
looking very grim. © John Mariani, 2018 ❖❖❖ A CHEESE PRESERVER
❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SHOWCASE CALIFORNIA CABERNETS WORTH THE BIG BUCKS By John Mariani FLORA SPRINGS FLORA’S
LEGACY 2016 ($215). Third-generation
family member Nat Komes pays homage to his
grandmother Flora Komes, inspiration for Flora
Springs, who was born in Hawaii and descended
from Hawaiian royalty. The 2016 vintage crafted by
winemaker Paul Steineuer combines lots from the
producer’s Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena
estate vineyards to produce a big bodied Cab rich
in dark fruit and spice, with its tannins
softening, but they could use more time in the
bottle. It is 100% Cab, aged for 19 months in both
French and American barrels, with just 320 cases
produced, so only three bottles per consumer may
be purchased on the winery’s website. DOMAINE
CURRY FOUNDERS BLEND 2021 ($80). This is the first vintage as
part of The Prisoner Wine Company Portfolio,
co-founded by Ayesha Curry
and Sydel Curry Lee.
The inspiration for Domaine Curry occurred
over a 2015 dinner with a toast to the family’s
women and the Bible’s Proverbs 31 about women of
“noble character.” The vintage is composed of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and
Cabernet Franc. After delivery of the grapes to
the winery, they were given a short cold soak and
inoculated with yeast, then put into 100% new oak.
The alcohol level is a bold 15.2%
FREEMARK
ABBEY
SYCAMORE VINEYARD 2018 ($200). The price gets into
the higher elevations of California Cabs, and you
may have to wait for it fully to mature (the winery
says it will be good for 20-30 years). The 24-acre
Sycamore Vineyard is near the Mayacamas Mountains,
rich in loam, and
the wine has the flavor of what they call
“Rutherford dust” in the tannins—reminiscent of the
massive Cabs made back in the 1980s in Napa. DALLE
VALLE 2020 ($250). A fine intensity and lovely
aromatics are the hallmarks of Dalle Valle Cabs,
this one from 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet
Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. This has long been the
estate’s flagship wine. There was an early harvest
in 2020, and the terroir’s composition of iron from
volcanic soils provides a backbone and steeliness,
so winemaker Maya Dalla Valle says that peak
drinking is for the next 10 to 15 years. ELEVEN:ELEVEN
XI 2020 ($90). This proprietary Cab is their third vintage sourced from
11:11 & Destin Vineyards in the Oak Knoll
District of Napa Valley. It’s a huge 100% Cab at
15.1% alcohol, aged for 22 months in 100% French
oak and 80% new oak, which provides a caramel
edge. Though the plantings themselves are not old,
this shows what can be achieved in a very few
years to develop a deep, dark flavor profile with
remarkable nuance. PAUL
HOBBS COOMBSVILLE 2018 ($120). Paul Hobbs winery
makes a good point when they say, “When it comes to Napa
Cabernet, the wines are often consumed while they
are still young. But the best examples can develop
additional complexity in the cellar, revealing
more nuance and supple tannins. Finding top aged
Cabernet is not always easy though.” The fact that
Paul Hobbs’s Coombsville 2018 is now into its
sixth year makes it eminently drinkable now and
for years to come. The 2018 was the first release
to carry the Coombsville appellation from one of
Napa’s coolest climates, near San Pablo Bay, and
it is a blend from Nathan Coombs Estate and Flat
Rock, aged for 20 months in 69 percent new French
oak. QUILT 2018 RESERVE ($110). After
harvest and fermentation, the wine was tasted
progressively and only the very best two percent was
set aside for the Reserve, which underwent further
aging in new French oak. This allowed for elements
of fruit, tannin and acidity to knit and for the oak
to tame down and provide a pleasing sweet element of
richness. The name Quilt comes from the fact that
its vineyards are a patchwork from which the grapes
are chosen and blended by winemaker Joe Wagner. They
also make a 2021 vintage for $55.
SULLIVAN
RUTHERFORD COEUR DE VIGNE 2021 ($100). The name
means "Heart of the
Vine," because the Sullivan estate is located in the
"heart" of Napa Valley. Winemaker Jeff Cole
blended 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 6%
Petit Verdot in a classic Bordeaux style. A small
vintage coming from a mild summer—yields
were reduced by 30%—it was nevertheless of very
high quality, with 2,600 cases made. The structure
is multi-dimensional, still a bit tannic but
yielding, and will be excellent this fall for the
heartiest of dishes. Twenty months of aging in new
French oak gives it ballast and a reasonable 14.8%
alcohol. ❖❖❖ ADVENTURES IN FOOD WRITING: CHEESE DIVISION Write-ups in Gambero Rosso: Falerio Pecorino
Onirocep 2016 - Pantaleone
What
momentum! The vintage exalts a profile played on
significant acidity tension on which it builds a
register of spices and flowers. It has citrusy grit
and a tense and savory palate, it is not even
halfway through its evolutionary journey.
Impressive. Offida Pecorino
2013 - De Angelis
Rich, full,
muscular. Notes of dried fruit, peach, and toasted
almond anticipate a creamy and well-stretched
palate, fat and satisfying. It manages to find an
unexpected liveliness, with a very inviting soft
fruit. Perfect with well-spiced white meats. Offida Pecorino Io
sono Gaia non sono Lucrezia 2012 - Le Caniette
Gaia loves
spices: white pepper, camphor, even ginger. Then
come the medicinal herbs, the menthol note, and a
mouth that changes abruptly. It leaves behind
linearity, ignites and restarts, with a complex and
deep articulation. ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured favorite. The story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html © copyright John Mariani 2024 |