Marc Anthony, Tony Shalhoub
and Minnie Driver in "Big Night" (1996)
❖❖❖
THIS WEEK
CAPITAL
NOURISHMENT:
DINING AROUND DC
By John A. Curtas NEW YORK CORNER
CLASS ON 38th
By John Mariani
THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO
By John Mariani
NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS
LOCKER
BEST NEW BOURBONS By John Mariani
❖❖❖
CAPITAL
NOURISHMENT:
DINING AROUND DC
By John A. Curtas
The District of
Columbia has neither the history of Boston,
the sexiness of New York, nor the cache of
Charleston. It is a manufactured city, born
of compromise, and possessed (as JFK once
remarked) of all the charm of a Northern
city and all the efficiency of Southern
town. When it comes to restaurants, it may
not be in New York's league (or even L
A.'s), but I like to think of it as a large,
provincial city with an inferiority complex,
always trying to compete gastronomically
with the big boys. Sort of like Chicago,with
better seafood. My
own relationship with Washington D.C. goes way
back and is a fraught one. Despite despising
politics, I have been strangely drawn here for
decades. So much so that I'm just as
comfortable noshing around Georgetown, the
Penn Quarter, or Dupont Circle as I am
navigating the Las Vegas Strip. The obligatory
family museum visits when I was growing up led
to a job interning for a Senator on Capitol
Hill, where a big dose of Vietnam War debates
inoculated me forever from the disease of
partisan politics. Thankfully it didn't blunt
my appetite for the town, which I think
deserves to be more famous for its food than
it is. When I'm in the District (which has
been every year for the past ten), I lean
towards the tried and true. There's a whole
trendy, ever-changing food scene with
chef-driven restaurants aplenty. But when I'm
there, I enjoy sliding into restaurants that
fit like a well-worn blazer, run by decorated
veterans who have honed their craft, like José
Andrés (left) and Fabio Trabocchi. If you hang around the Penn Quarter,
you can eat very well and never leave the
Andrés orbit. Our last trip found us popping
into Oyamelfor some
exemplary tacos (and mouth-searing aquachile)
before we hit the National Gallery. Across the
street is the amazing Asian-Peruvian mashup of
China Chilcano(the $70
Peruvian tasting menu is a steal) and down the
same block you'll find the original Jaleo,
which, despite its age (circa 1993), remains
one of the best Spanish restaurants in
America. Having eaten in all three multiple
times, I can confidently state you can close
your eyes and point on to
anything on the menu and still be seduced by
what shows up on your plate—whether it's a
soothing huitlacoche
quesadilla at Oyamel, a bracing Peruvian
ceviche at China Chilcano, or Jaleo’s
liquefied olives "Ferran Adrià." A remarkable
triple threat of authentic,
in-your-face-flavors mixed with enough panache
to keep us coming back to this block for
decades now. The most popular of all Andrès's
restaurants is just a couple of blocks north
from where it all started—Zaytinya,
Andrés' take on Greek, Turkish and Lebanese
food—which, despite its age (2002), outdoor
seating, and multi-levels, has become one of
the toughest tables in town. One bite of the hummus ma
lahm (with ground lamb and pine nuts), soujouk
pide (spicy sausage flat bread), kebab
platter or smoked lamb shoulder (right)
will tell you why. When they open a branch in
Las Vegas later this year, I expect it to be
mobbed as well. I've never had a bad meal
in a Fabio Trabocchi (left) restaurant;
indeed, I've never had a bad bite. He's one of
the best working chefs in America, and you
could plan your D.C. visit around each of his
eateries and be assured of cooking as polished
as any in the country. Fiola-DCis his flagship, and takes a back seat to
no Italian in the country, with menus
featuring both the traditional "La
Tradizione" ($225) and the more
inventive “Il Viaggio” ("The Journey"
$285). During the week
(Tuesdays-Wednesday-Thursday), you can order à
la carte and be assured that whatever appears
(from the Pappa al
Pomodoro to the mixed seafood pasta to
the langoustine with stracciatella and
limone) will compete with the best version you
have ever had. The wine list is a dream (and
full of
trophy bottles), and the waiters all look as
good as the food. Snare a seat at the bar and
you'll have a front-row seat for the parade of
D.C.'s finest flocking in for the
unforgettable Italian food. Moving to less formal waters,
Trabocchi's Fiola Mare(right)
sits right on the Potomac in Georgetown and
wheels the catch of the day by every table for
the discriminating to choose, while Del
Mar, located directly south of the The
Mall at the District Wharf, is an
eyeball-popping ode to jamon,
tapas, sobrassada, and Spanish
seafood. (Historical footnote: this completely
gentrified, now-bustling multi-use riverfront
was where we learned to gorge on Maryland
Shore seafood back in the early 1970s, at the
long-defunct Hogate's.) Del
Mar practically assaults your senses
with its primary colors, seafood motif, and
endless array of fish and shellfish, both
cooked and raw. And its jamon
and paella
presentations (left) are José
Andrės worthy. Both chefs now cast a wide net
over the D.C. restaurant scene, and over the
past 20 years have done as much as anyone to
bring our nation's capital into the big
leagues as a dining destination. But man does not live by celebrity
chefs alone, and D.C. remains theAmerican capital of French bistros,
even if their numbers have diminished over the
years. One needn't look hard in the NW
quadrant to find Gallic gastronomy faithful to
the haute
bourgeois cooking
of Paris. Here it is at its imported best,
with more venues ready to provide satiety when
cravings strike for ris de
veau, steak au poivre,
and moules
marinière. Three old favorites are Bistrot
Du Coin, a few blocks from Dupont
Circle (where the champagne list is famous for
its selection and modest prices), Le
Diplomate (right), a
perfect facsimile of a Parisian brasserie,
legendary for being packed at brunch, and the
jewel box Bistrot
Lepic in upper Georgetown. Their
menus are about as trendy as boeuf
bourguignon, but when you step through
the doors, the warm embrace of wine-infused
cooking permeates the room, the food, and your
soul. The oldest of our
favorites—La Chaumière—features
a menu straight from 1976 and is none the
worse for it. It has been almost forty years
since I first ducked into the timbered dining
room, and tucked into a quenelle
de Brochet Sauce Homard, but from my
first bite, then and now, I was transported to
the Left Bank of Paris. When you cut your
teeth on a certain type of cuisine you never
forget it, and dishes like those dumplings, torchon
de foie gras, Dover sole and crême
caramel are what made me fall in love
with French food in the first place. As comforting as all of these are, even
an old soul like yours truly occasionally
looks for the unexpected. Which is how, at the
urging of a Filipino foodie friend, we
happened upon the Purple Patch.
To say we were skeptical at first is an
understatement. Fried, heavy and greasy,
Filipino has always been the Rodney
Dangerfield of Asian cuisines—a mélange of
regional foods (from over 7,000 separate
islands), neither complex nor refined, and
usually about as subtle as a Manny
Paquiao right cross. None
of
which applies to the dishes
Filipino-American chef Patrice Cleary is whipping up these
days in the rapidly gentrifying Mt. Pleasant
neighborhood—invoking precise levels of
technique and presentation not normally
associated with this cooking. One taste of her
vegetable slaw (right), crisp lumpia,
or hauntingly savory pancit
announces that you have left the land of steam
tables and oil-soaked fried fish, and entered
a new realm of sticky-rich lechon,
lightly-fried tofu,
and sweet-sour snapper, which command
attention for their careful cooking, vivid
flavors and balanced textures. The
restaurant itself is a confusing hoot: a
tri-level maze of warrens, hallways, and rooms
carved out of a Mt. Pleasant townhouse. None
of which matters when the platters of the
shockingly fresh food start appearing. We’ve
been twice now in two years, to what is
certainly one of the best Filipino restaurants
in America—something Washington Post
restaurant critic Tom Sietsema might agree
with, since he named Purple Patch his
Restaurant of the Year 2023. Washington D.C. has come a
long way since my days of dining at Kinkead's
(closed 2012), Citronelle (2012), Galileo
(2006), Duke Zeibert's (1994) and
Jean-Louis (1996). What used to be the power
lunch crowd probably eats at their desks now,
and the of-the-moment restaurants are casual
gastro-pubs like Rose's Luxury or The Dabney,
where Instagram influencers are more important
to the business model than media moguls,
Senate staffers or well-connected lobbyists. I
have nothing against locavore-obsessed chefs
and open-hearth cooking, but these things have
become as clichéd as the snooty maître d's
and tasseled menus of my youth. In the
post-Covid, anything-goes era, the D.C. dining
scene can feel like any other big city in
America—where Caribbean street food, Central
Texas barbecue, and super-exclusive Japanese
are but an Open Table click away. Trying to
keep up with the latest in South American
cooking (Ceibo) or multi-cultural mashups
(Rooster & Owl) can be exhausting, so I
make no apologies for seeking out classic
Spanish, upscale Italian, or the sort of
bistro cooking that never goes out of style.
Throw in a little envelope-pushing Filipino
food, and you’ll get a taste of D.C. dining at
its best.
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
CLASS ON 38TH
55 West 38th
Street
929-292-0691
By John
Mariani
Right off the bat, let’s make it clear
that Class on 38th does not serve sushi or
sashimi, which is amply represented at Japanese
restaurants within a stone’s throw from this new
dining room near Times Square.Chef Alex Lee decided to go his own way,
offering modern Japanese food with sumptuous
ingredients presented beautifully on the table.
Lee (below) is partner in MINKA Japanese
Kitchen with Rudi
Jan, Renk Dong, Jane Rotari and Nick Hwang, who
also run Antidote and Nemesis. The
name Class is an acronym for “Cocktails, Liquors
And Specialty Spirits,” and the street number is
an astrological symbol of wealth and abundance.As of this moment, Class
does not yet have a full liquor license, but there
is an extensive sake menu, three beers and a wine
list of about 30 reasonably priced labels. Class has a dramatically long dining room
with a gleaming sake bar up front. The walls are
of red-brown brick and tiles, and Japanese
wallpaper. Polished wooden tables have their own
lamps, and ceiling lighting that could be turned
up a tad for a more convivial ambience. The
bass-line music adds nothing but noise. The
vintage chinaware dates back to the 1950s; the
paper napkins do not. We put ourselves in Lee’s hands for a
tasting menu (everything is offered à la carte) of
small plates and signature dishes. So we began
with silky tuna toro tartare topped with mild uni
and caviar, served on Hokkaido milk bread toast ($43). Most seafood
is flown in from Japan, like the lustrous, sweet
Hokkaido scallops with more uni, fresh
and pickled chili and a shiso aguachile
($25), which acknowledges the Peruvian influence
on Japanese food. From Alaska comes snow crab in
a salad of endive frisée, and the sweetness of
sliced apple and pomegranate with ponzu yuzu
($21). Lee takes meaty chicken thighs, skewers
them yakitori-style, glazed withsweet
ginger tare,
pickled ume
plum and shiso ($13). Fried karaage monkfish
gets a cool
mayo spiced with mentaiko (cured,
spiced pollack roe), peppery shichmi
and matcha
salt ($19). These dishes are unique enough, but Lee has
a category of “signature dishes” that include
Mishima Reserve wagyu beef—ten well-marbled ounces
of it—cuddled with cauliflower, broccoli di rabe,
a reduction of black pepper and shiso oil ($88),
while short grain, sweet koshihikari
rice is the base for roasted Scottish salmons and
its ikuraroe
mushroom myoga
ginger ($27). There is no dessert menu, but Lee did send
out two sweets: Matcha green tea cheesecake
brûlée, and warm chocolate brownie with matcha ice
cream. By description alone, Class on
38th serves food of a highly innovative style, one
whose individual dishes are unlikely to be found
elsewhere in town and certainly not in the city’s
sushi bars. Anyone interested in this kind of
diversion from Japanese tradition will be
tantalized by the creative spirit here.
Open for dinner Wed.-Mon.
❖❖❖
THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES By John Mariani
CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO
David Greco
and Max Finger arrived at a Victorian-style
house a block from Mater Miseracordia
Private Hospital, founded by the Sisters of
Mercy in 1852. Three stories tall, with an
ornate columned façade and new steel door,
the building was in obvious need of
restoration, as were the trees and shrubs
around it. Inspector
Finger had called ahead—a police guard was
posted outside—and they were received by an
elderly woman introduced to David as the
housekeeper to the seven nuns who had lived
there, two of them now dead. The third had
lived elsewhere. “The first murder occurred here in the
chapel they keep,” said the Inspector. “The
perpetrator came up from behind her, probably
as she was kneelin’ in prayer, wrapped the
rosary beads around her neck and, according to
the coroner, she choked to death in less than
a minute. The murderer apparently just came
through the old front door, maybe unlatched.
After that, we put security on and installed
that new metal door.” The chapel had not been touched since
the murder, and there was nothing to see to
indicate one had taken place. “The killer leave anything behind?” “Only a couple of olive pits that came
free from the rosary,” said Finger. “I didn’t
quite get why they were made of olive pits.” “There were olive trees in the Garden
of Gethsemane where Jesus was taken prisoner
by the Jews,” said David. “When I was in high
school they sold rosaries made out of olive
pits they said came from there.” Finger shook his head and said, “And I
thought Judaism had weird folklore. We tried
to trace them to the religious articles stores
in town but no luck with that. They seemed
quite old. The killer must have had them a
long time.” The two men left the mansion and drove
to a parish-run school near St. Patrick’s
Cathedral, where the second victim had been
found. “She used to teach here,” said Finger
as they entered the old red stone building on
Donore Avenue. The classroom where the murder
occurred was small, musty, with very old,
scratched school desks and a scuffed
blackboard, with police tape across the door,
and on the floor, just behind the teacher’s
desk, was a broad stain of dried blood. “Our guess is that the victim was
workin’ late—there are test papers on her
desk—and the killer came in, grabbed the
wooden pointer and jammed it right through her
chest. Came out the other side of her body, so
it needed a lot of force behind it. It’s
unlikely the killer would have been an elderly
woman out for revenge. The pointer slammed
into the blackboard—here—and snapped. The rest
was withdrawn and tossed over in that corner.
No fingerprints anywhere. No strands of hair
we could find.” “And the nun fell backwards?” “Yeah, and apparently cracked her skull
on the way down, but she was already dead from
the pointer attack.” “No one heard anything?”
"There was no one in else in the buildin’. The
maintenance man had left around five o’clock,
the murder occurred around seven, when it was
dark.” The detectives’ last stop was at a
two-story house in Warrenmount where the nun
beaten to death had been living on the first
floor, her one-room flat facing the rear of
the building. A police officer stood outside.
“This one had left the order after they
closed the Laundries,” said Finger. “We spoke
to her colleagues and they said she was one of
those who felt great remorse for her
actions—of course, this was when some of the
heat was buildin’ up against the good Sisters.
She tried to leave it all behind her, never
was in contact with her former colleagues but,
oddly enough, had never formally renounced her
vows. She lived here alone and kept inside
most of the time. Must’ve been livin’ off the
dole.” “How old?” “In her
seventies. She was said to be sufferin’ from
epilepsy and would sometimes go to Coombes
Women’s Hospital a few blocks away.In this
instance the room was spattered with blood
that had flown from the flaying of the nun’s
face—on the walls, the furniture and the
carpet, as if a bottle of blood had exploded.
Finger said the nun had been handcuffed first,
with her hands behind the chair." “The paper said she’d been hit again
and again by someone wearing gloves coated
with some rough material?” asked David. “Oh, that’s all over the place—watch
where you step. The murderer had glued very
rough sandpaper onto the palms of the glove
and just shredded the woman’s face. It
couldn’t have gone on for too long, because
the coroner determined that the woman actually
died from brain damage caused by bein’ so
brutally beaten about the head.” “And again, the killer left no evidence
behind?” “We’ve got some wool fibers but have no
real clue as to where they came from.Maybe
the killer’s coat, maybe not.” “The doors weren’t locked?” “They seemed to have been, and it’s
clear the killer came through the rear window,
which was not locked.” “And nobody heard anything, with this
woman being slapped around like that?” “She was muffled with a cloth and duct
tape. The killer had her seated facin’ a
mirror, so the nun had to watch her own flesh
being torn off.And after the first few blows, I doubt
the nun was capable of utterin’ a sound.” It never occurred to Finger that David
would be put off by what he’d seen that
morning, so he said, “How about some lunch? A
quick one, somewhere near.” Of course, David had seen worse crime
scenes in his time, and it never occurred to
him not
to have lunch. They repaired to a local
pub, ordered sandwiches, and Finger said, “If
you want to have a pint, you’re
not on duty.” “I’m good. So, what do you know about
these women?” “Not much from the remainin’ Sisters,
who say it’s just too horrible to talk about.
I suspect they know the reasons in each case
for the way their colleagues were murdered.
They were highly predetermined to signal
somethin’ to the rest.” “Well, I suppose the rosary beads make
sense and even the pointer if that nun had
been a teacher. As for the blows to the head,
I’ve got to think it was pay-back for a
teacher who’d inflicted a lot of pain, maybe
for slapping the girls silly.” “Yeah, that all sounds reasonable,”
said Finger, picking at his chips. “I’d like
to have a lot more specifics, so we’re
trackin’ down some of the women who had been
in the Laundries while those particular nuns
were there. I don’t think there’s more than
one killer, but you never know. Two or more
could have ganged together, which would
explain a bit about the strength it took to
kill those old ladies.” “Well, they were
old ladies, so I doubt they put up much of a
fight,” said David. “Probably not, but Adrenalin can be a
powerful force when you’re bein’ attacked. At
least in the case of the rosary murder.” “I know you said there were no
fingerprints, but what about foot prints?” “In the first two cases the walkways to
the premises were concrete. In the third,
where the killer came in through the window,
‘twas the usual rainy night in Dublin, and
there were some marks in the grass but the
killer must have worn plastic bags over his or
her shoes.” “Could you tell anything about the size
of the shoe?” “No, the killer was smart enough to
deliberately slog over the grass to obscure
everything.” Finger called for the check, and David
thought it was a reasonable moment to ask
about how a Jew got onto the Garda. “Well, for one thing, I’m only half
Jewish. Me mum’s Irish.” “You were raised as a Catholic?” “I might’ve been, but she died when I
was only four years old. My father had no
interest in religion one way or the other, not
a practicin’ Jew by any means, though we’d go
through a token observance of the occasional
holiday when it suited his purpose. I did go
to a parish school, because that’s almost all
they have in Ireland. The government pays for
them, the Church
operates them. Had to take a god-awful amount
of religion in school but they never forced me
to take the Catholic sacraments. “By the time I was ready to choose a
career, the only thing that was really Jewish
about me was my name, and I reminded the
police that the Lord Mayor of Dublin at that
time was Jewish, name of Robert Briscoe (right),
who had enormous respect from the people and
the government. His son Ben followed him in
the job.” “So no problem with prejudice among the
rank and file?” “T'was more a question of constant
ribbin’, some of it pretty mean, but that’s
part of being a cop. I kept my head down, as
they say, rose through the ranks, was lucky
enough to solve some important cases, and here
I am.” “So you’re on this present case out of
seniority?”
Finger finished his diet soda, paid the check,
put his coat on and said, “Yes and no. I’m not
the most senior cop on the force, but my
captain—name’s Hannigan—wants this case solved
and solved fast. He knows it’s a sensitive
subject, a big open sore, what with the
background of the Sisters and the reluctance
to act against them. He knows this is a dirty
business and a lot of the other detectives
might not do a thorough job because of their
connection to the Church. Me, I’m not a
Catholic, so that doesn’t sway me at all and
Hannigan knows it. I’m kind of the logical
choice. I’m not goin’ to go soft on the nuns
when I question them.”
This year on his
video blog spirits expert Fred Minnick, author of
Bourbon: The
Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of an American Whiskey,
posed the question “Is the Bourbon Boom Over?” by
indicating how many publicly traded liquor
companies are making products based on what Wall
Street wants, rather than what the consumer wants
or liquor stores sell, and, based on distributors’
input, that bourbon drinkers are not buying many
of the relentless releases of new products.
Ironically, he says, the industry itself is doing
excellent business, but it’s a slippery slope for
new, small distilleries going for a niche market,
which, “if not supported by consumers will go
away.” Let’s look on the bright side, however,
because there is a tumult of new bourbons
(sometimes old bourbons in new bottles) from both
individual producers and from the corporate
brands, which, in fact, learned that “small batch”
and “reserve” and “special barrel” claims by the
little guys have caused the majors to come up with
novelties as well, and with bigger ad budgets.(By
the way, bourbon distillers have now paraphrased
the food cliché “farm to table” as “ground to
glass.”) Here are but a few bottlings new in the
bourbon market.
JEPTHA CREED DISTILLERY SIX YEAR WHEATED BOURBON
($60). Released this month, it is made of 75%
Bloody Butcher corn, 20% malted wheat and 5%
malted barley at 93 proof, aged for six years.
Joyce Nethery is master distiller, who, with a
Master’s in engineering, spent 15 years as a
process engineer in industrial scale distillation.
She then taught high school chemistry and physics
before she and her husband Bruce opened their own
distillery on a 1,000-acre farm in Selby County,
Kentucky, in 2016
JEFFERSON’S TROPICS ($100).
Jefferson’s founder, Trey
Zoeller,having
investigated maturation techniques and
environments with his Ocean Aged at Sea Voyage
Series, was convinced that climate could affect
the maturation process more than the mash bill
or barrel itself.Jefferson's Tropics Aged in
Humidity depends on year-round intense heat and
humidity. He found it in Singapore, shipping
nine containers with a combined capacity of 720
barrels of fully
matured Kentucky straight bourbon
to Singapore in July 2019, where
they were exposed to the climate for 18 months.
The result is a bourbon of rich flavor and
unabashed caramelization caused by the heat
cooking the wood’s sugar. It was bottled in
Kentucky at a high104 proof.
SAVAGE & COOKE. Owned by Napa Valley winemaker
Dave Phinney, this distillery, named California
Bourbon Distillery of the year at the New York
International Spirits Competition, is located on
historic Mare Island and opened in 2018. “The
heirloom corn we get from nearby Winters,
California, is the perfect example,” he says. “It
makes these bottled=in-bond whiskeys so special.
It was a long wait, but with each new release, we
see how our patience paid off.” This spring he
released two new bottled-in-bond bourbons in very
limited supply. Howling Mob ($95), with just 31
barrels at 100 proof, using 93% corn and 7% malted
barley, and Bloody Butcher ($99), made from 44
carefully selected barrels, to become an annual
release. These are a California-style whiskey,
full-bodied but not overpowering and aimed at a
sophisticated audience.
CASEY JONES INITIAL
ECLIPSE BOURBON ($50). This is a four-grain
bourbon, made from corn, wheat,
rye and malted barley, each aged a minimum of two
years in a four-char white oak barrelin small
batches at 100 proof from a hybrid pot still
designed by long-time producer A.J. Jones, who
founded the distillery in 2014. It has a fine
nutty quality and creaminess with a hint of
sweetness and pleasing finish.Named
after the 2017 eclipse, the bourbon was named the
“Official Spirit of the 2017 Total Solar Eclipse”
by Senator Whitney Westerfield on the Kentucky Senate floor.
BARREL CRAFT SPIRITS CASK FINISH
SERIES MIZUNARA ($90). This
limited-release expression is a blend of 6-, 7-
and 9-year-old bourbons from Indiana, 8- and
14-year-olds from Kentucky and an
8-eight-year-old Tennessee further aged for one
and a half years in Japanese Mizunara oak casks
and bottled at cask strength (116.42 proof),
from a mash bill of corn (76%), rye (20%), and
malted barley (4%).
B.R. BLUE NOTE RESERVE.
Out of Memphis, though not classified as Tennessee
Whiskey, there are actually four “expressions” in
the Blue Note Line, including Juke Joint ($35),
Juke Joint Uncut ($50), Crossroads ($45),
and Special Reserve ($25), which is a blend of
seven different finishing techniques on bourbonscomprised
of three different mash bills distilled in
Kentucky and Tennessee ranging from 4 to 19 years
of age. It is thenfinished up to three additional years in
Cognac, Madeira, Sherry, Port, vino de Naranja,
and American white oak barrels, bottled at 112.5
proof.
BRUSH CREEK STRAIGHT
($60). Many bourbon producers depend on other
distilleries for maturing barrels of whiskey.
Brush Creek selects from hundreds from Kentucky,
Indian and Tennessee, transferring them to its
“barrel barn” to continue to age for four to
twelve years. Since Brush Creek began in 2019, in
Saratoga, Wyoming, they’ve waited till now for
their first release, at 94 proof. In the future
they plan on having their own on-site distillery.
❖❖❖
THE MICE
WERE RELEASED TW0
DAYS LATER AT AMAZON'S
EMPLOYEE CAFETERIA
According
to the NY Post, a video
is circulating of a rodent in the bar at
Balthazar, which owner Keith
McNally believes was an act of revenge after
McNally’s inflammatory Instagram post in which he
called Jeff Bezos and fiancée media personality,
Lauren Sanchez, “revolting.” A few days
later, McNally said that, at 8:30 p.m.
a man at the bar “released six domesticated white
mice from a paper bag, and ran out of the
restaurant.” A bartender, he says, ran after the
man, while “the mice were quickly caught.”
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.