MARIANI’S

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June 2,  2024                                                                                                            NEWSLETTER


 

Founded in 1996 

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Marc Anthony, Tony Shalhoub and Minnie Driver in "Big Night" (1996)

        

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THIS WEEK
CAPITAL NOURISHMENT:
DINING AROUND DC
By John A. Curtas


NEW YORK CORNER
CLASS ON 38th

By John Mariani

THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER
BEST NEW BOURBONS

By John Mariani



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CAPITAL NOURISHMENT:
DINING AROUND DC

By John A. Curtas




 

      The District of Columbia has neither the history of Boston, the sexiness of New York, nor the cache of Charleston. It is a manufactured city, born of compromise, and possessed (as JFK once remarked) of all the charm of a Northern city and all the efficiency of Southern town. When it comes to restaurants, it may not be in New York's league (or even L A.'s), but I like to think of it as a large, provincial city with an inferiority complex, always trying to compete gastronomically with the big boys. Sort of like Chicago,  with better seafood.
      My own relationship with Washington D.C. goes way back and is a fraught one. Despite despising politics, I have been strangely drawn here for decades. So much so that I'm just as comfortable noshing around Georgetown, the Penn Quarter, or Dupont Circle as I am navigating the Las Vegas Strip. The obligatory family museum visits when I was growing up led to a job interning for a Senator on Capitol Hill, where a big dose of Vietnam War debates inoculated me forever from the disease of partisan politics. Thankfully it didn't blunt my appetite for the town, which I think deserves to be more famous for its food than it is.
      When I'm in the District (which has been every year for the past ten), I lean towards the tried and true. There's a whole trendy, ever-changing food scene with chef-driven restaurants aplenty. But when I'm there, I enjoy sliding into restaurants that fit like a well-worn blazer, run by decorated veterans who have honed their craft, like José Andrés (left) and Fabio Trabocchi.
      If you hang around the Penn Quarter, you can eat very well and never leave the Andrés orbit. Our last trip found us popping into Oyamel for some exemplary tacos (and mouth-searing aquachile) before we hit the National Gallery. Across the street is the amazing Asian-Peruvian mashup of China Chilcano (the $70 Peruvian tasting menu is a steal) and down the same block you'll find the original Jaleo, which, despite its age (circa 1993), remains one of the best Spanish restaurants in America.
      Having eaten in all three multiple times, I can confidently state you can close your eyes and point on to anything on the menu and still be seduced by what shows up on your plate—whether it's a soothing huitlacoche quesadilla at Oyamel, a bracing Peruvian ceviche at China Chilcano, or Jaleo’s liquefied olives "Ferran Adrià." A remarkable triple threat of authentic, in-your-face-flavors mixed with enough panache to keep us coming back to this block for decades now.
      The most popular of all Andrès's restaurants is just a couple of blocks north from where it all started—Zaytinya, Andrés' take on Greek, Turkish and Lebanese food—which, despite its age (2002), outdoor seating, and multi-levels, has become one of the toughest tables in town. One bite of the hummus ma lahm (with ground lamb and pine nuts), soujouk pide (spicy sausage flat bread), kebab platter or smoked lamb shoulder (right) will tell you why. When they open a branch in Las Vegas later this year, I expect it to be mobbed as well.
      I've never had a bad meal in a Fabio Trabocchi (left) restaurant; indeed, I've never had a bad bite. He's one of the best working chefs in America, and you could plan your D.C. visit around each of his eateries and be assured of cooking as polished as any in the country.
      Fiola-DC is his flagship, and takes a back seat to no Italian in the country, with menus featuring both the traditional "La Tradizione" ($225) and the more inventive “Il Viaggio” ("The Journey" $285). During the week (Tuesdays-Wednesday-Thursday), you can order à la carte and be assured that whatever appears (from the Pappa al Pomodoro to the mixed seafood pasta to the langoustine with stracciatella and limone) will compete with the best version you have ever had. The wine list is a dream (and full of trophy bottles), and the waiters all look as good as the food. Snare a seat at the bar and you'll have a front-row seat for the parade of D.C.'s finest flocking in for the unforgettable Italian food.
      Moving to less formal waters, Trabocchi's Fiola Mare (right) sits right on the Potomac in Georgetown and wheels the catch of the day by every table for the discriminating to choose, while Del Mar, located directly south of the The Mall at the District Wharf, is an eyeball-popping ode to jamon, tapas, sobrassada, and Spanish seafood. (Historical footnote: this completely gentrified, now-bustling multi-use riverfront was where we learned to gorge on Maryland Shore seafood back in the early 1970s, at the long-defunct Hogate's.)
      Del Mar practically assaults your senses with its primary colors, seafood motif, and endless array of fish and shellfish, both cooked and raw. And its jamon and paella presentations  (left) are José Andrės worthy. Both chefs now cast a wide net over the D.C. restaurant scene, and over the past 20 years have done as much as anyone to bring our nation's capital into the big leagues as a dining destination.
         But man does not live by celebrity chefs alone, and D.C. remains the    American capital of French bistros, even if their numbers have diminished over the years. One needn't look hard in the NW quadrant to find Gallic gastronomy faithful to the haute bourgeois cooking of Paris. Here it is at its imported best, with more venues ready to provide satiety when cravings strike for ris de veau, steak au poivre, and moules marinière.
      Three old favorites are Bistrot Du Coin, a few blocks from Dupont Circle (where the champagne list is famous for its selection and modest prices), Le Diplomate  (right), a perfect facsimile of a Parisian brasserie, legendary for being packed at brunch, and the jewel box Bistrot Lepic in upper Georgetown. Their menus are about as trendy as boeuf bourguignon, but when you step through the doors, the warm embrace of wine-infused cooking permeates the room, the food, and your soul.
      The oldest of our favorites—La Chaumière—features a menu straight from 1976 and is none the worse for it. It has been almost forty years since I first ducked into the timbered dining room, and tucked into a quenelle de Brochet Sauce Homard, but from my first bite, then and now, I was transported to the Left Bank of Paris. When you cut your teeth on a certain type of cuisine you never forget it, and dishes like those dumplings, torchon de foie gras, Dover sole and crême caramel are what made me fall in love with French food in the first place.
      As comforting as all of these are, even an old soul like yours truly occasionally looks for the unexpected. Which is how, at the urging of a Filipino foodie friend, we happened upon the Purple Patch. To say we were skeptical at first is an understatement. Fried, heavy and greasy, Filipino has always been the Rodney Dangerfield of Asian cuisines—a mélange of regional foods (from over 7,000 separate islands), neither complex nor refined, and usually about as subtle as a Manny Paquiao  right cross.
     
None of which applies to the dishes Filipino-American
chef Patrice Cleary is whipping up these days in the rapidly gentrifying Mt. Pleasant neighborhood—invoking precise levels of technique and presentation not normally associated with this cooking. One taste of her vegetable slaw (right), crisp lumpia, or hauntingly savory pancit announces that you have left the land of steam tables and oil-soaked fried fish, and entered a new realm of sticky-rich lechon, lightly-fried tofu, and sweet-sour snapper, which command attention for their careful cooking, vivid flavors and balanced textures.
     
The restaurant itself is a confusing hoot: a tri-level maze of warrens, hallways, and rooms carved out of a Mt. Pleasant townhouse. None of which matters when the platters of the shockingly fresh food start appearing. We’ve been twice now in two years, to what is certainly one of the best Filipino restaurants in America—something Washington Post restaurant critic Tom Sietsema might agree with, since he named Purple Patch his Restaurant of the Year 2023.
    
Washington D.C. has come a long way since my days of dining at Kinkead's (closed 2012), Citronelle (2012), Galileo (2006), Duke Zeibert's (1994) and Jean-Louis (1996). What used to be the power lunch crowd probably eats at their desks now, and the of-the-moment restaurants are casual gastro-pubs like Rose's Luxury or The Dabney, where Instagram influencers are more important to the business model than media moguls, Senate staffers or well-connected lobbyists.
     
I have nothing against locavore-obsessed chefs and open-hearth cooking, but these things have become as clichéd as the snooty maître d's and tasseled menus of my youth. In the post-Covid, anything-goes era, the D.C. dining scene can feel like any other big city in America—where Caribbean street food, Central Texas barbecue, and super-exclusive Japanese are but an Open Table click away. Trying to keep up with the latest in South American cooking (Ceibo) or multi-cultural mashups (Rooster & Owl) can be exhausting, so I make no apologies for seeking out classic Spanish, upscale Italian, or the sort of bistro cooking that never goes out of style. Throw in a little envelope-pushing Filipino food, and you’ll get a taste of D.C. dining at its best.





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NEW YORK CORNER

                               CLASS ON 38TH                                                                                                                                                 55 West 38th Street

                                                     929-292-0691

                                By John Mariani




 

         Right off the bat, let’s make it clear that Class on 38th does not serve sushi or sashimi, which is amply represented at Japanese restaurants within a stone’s throw from this new dining room near Times Square.         Chef Alex Lee decided to go his own way, offering modern Japanese food with sumptuous ingredients presented beautifully on the table. Lee (below) is partner in MINKA Japanese Kitchen with Rudi Jan, Renk Dong, Jane Rotari and Nick Hwang, who also run Antidote and Nemesis.
        
The name Class is an acronym for “Cocktails, Liquors And Specialty Spirits,” and the street number is an astrological symbol of wealth and abundance. 
As of this moment, Class does not yet have a full liquor license, but there is an extensive sake menu, three beers and a wine list of about 30 reasonably priced labels.
      Class has a dramatically long dining room with a gleaming sake bar up front. The walls are of red-brown brick and tiles, and Japanese wallpaper. Polished wooden tables have their own lamps, and ceiling lighting that could be turned up a tad for a more convivial ambience. The bass-line music adds nothing but noise. The vintage chinaware dates back to the 1950s; the paper napkins do not.
      We put ourselves in Lee’s hands for a tasting menu (everything is offered à la carte) of small plates and signature dishes. So we began with silky tuna toro tartare topped with mild uni and caviar, served on Hokkaido milk bread toast ($43). Most seafood is flown in from Japan, like the lustrous, sweet Hokkaido scallops with more uni, fresh and pickled chili and a shiso aguachile ($25), which acknowledges the Peruvian influence on Japanese food. From Alaska comes snow crab in a salad of endive frisée, and the sweetness of sliced apple and pomegranate with ponzu yuzu ($21).
        
Lee takes meaty chicken thighs, skewers them yakitori-style, glazed with  sweet ginger tare, pickled ume plum and shiso ($13). Fried karaage monkfish gets a cool mayo spiced with mentaiko (cured, spiced pollack roe), peppery shichmi and matcha salt ($19).
         These dishes are unique enough, but Lee has a category of “signature dishes” that include Mishima Reserve wagyu beef—ten well-marbled ounces of it—cuddled with cauliflower, broccoli di rabe, a reduction of black pepper and shiso oil ($88), while short grain, sweet koshihikari rice is the base for roasted Scottish salmons and its ikura  roe mushroom myoga ginger ($27).
         There is no dessert menu, but Lee did send out two sweets: Matcha green tea cheesecake brûlée, and warm chocolate brownie with matcha ice cream.

       
By description alone, Class on 38th serves food of a highly innovative style, one whose individual dishes are unlikely to be found elsewhere in town and certainly not in the city’s sushi bars. Anyone interested in this kind of diversion from Japanese tradition will be tantalized by the creative spirit here. 


Open for dinner Wed.-Mon.

 

 

 



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THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
By  John Mariani





CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO

 

         David Greco and Max Finger arrived at a Victorian-style house a block from Mater Miseracordia Private Hospital, founded by the Sisters of Mercy in 1852. Three stories tall, with an ornate columned façade and new steel door, the building was in obvious need of restoration, as were the trees and shrubs around it.
          Inspector Finger had called ahead—a police guard was posted outside—and they were received by an elderly woman introduced to David as the housekeeper to the seven nuns who had lived there, two of them now dead. The third had lived elsewhere.
         “The first murder occurred here in the chapel they keep,” said the Inspector. “The perpetrator came up from behind her, probably as she was kneelin’ in prayer, wrapped the rosary beads around her neck and, according to the coroner, she choked to death in less than a minute. The murderer apparently just came through the old front door, maybe unlatched. After that, we put security on and installed that new metal door.”
         The chapel had not been touched since the murder, and there was nothing to see to indicate one had taken place.
         “The killer leave anything behind?”
         “Only a couple of olive pits that came free from the rosary,” said Finger. “I didn’t quite get why they were made of olive pits.”
         “There were olive trees in the Garden of Gethsemane where Jesus was taken prisoner by the Jews,” said David. “When I was in high school they sold rosaries made out of olive pits they said came from there.”
         Finger shook his head and said, “And I thought Judaism had weird folklore. We tried to trace them to the religious articles stores in town but no luck with that. They seemed quite old. The killer must have had them a long time.”
         The two men left the mansion and drove to a parish-run school near St. Patrick’s Cathedral, where the second victim had been found.
         “She used to teach here,” said Finger as they entered the old red stone building on Donore Avenue. The classroom where the murder occurred was small, musty, with very old, scratched school desks and a scuffed blackboard, with police tape across the door, and on the floor, just behind the teacher’s desk, was a broad stain of dried blood.
         “Our guess is that the victim was workin’ late—there are test papers on her desk—and the killer came in, grabbed the wooden pointer and jammed it right through her chest. Came out the other side of her body, so it needed a lot of force behind it. It’s unlikely the killer would have been an elderly woman out for revenge. The pointer slammed into the blackboard—here—and snapped. The rest was withdrawn and tossed over in that corner. No fingerprints anywhere. No strands of hair we could find.”
         “And the nun fell backwards?”
         “Yeah, and apparently cracked her skull on the way down, but she was already dead from the pointer attack.”
         “No one heard anything?”
         "There was no one in else in the buildin’. The maintenance man had left around five o’clock, the murder occurred around seven, when it was dark.”
         The detectives’ last stop was at a two-story house in Warrenmount where the nun beaten to death had been living on the first floor, her one-room flat facing the rear of the building. A police officer stood outside.
         “This one had left the order after they closed the Laundries,” said Finger. “We spoke to her colleagues and they said she was one of those who felt great remorse for her actions—of course, this was when some of the heat was buildin’ up against the good Sisters. She tried to leave it all behind her, never was in contact with her former colleagues but, oddly enough, had never formally renounced her vows. She lived here alone and kept inside most of the time. Must’ve been livin’ off the dole.”
         “How old?”
         “In her seventies. She was said to be sufferin’ from epilepsy and would sometimes go to Coombes Women’s Hospital a few blocks away. In this instance the room was spattered with blood that had flown from the flaying of the nun’s face—on the walls, the furniture and the carpet, as if a bottle of blood had exploded. Finger said the nun had been handcuffed first, with her hands behind the chair."
         “The paper said she’d been hit again and again by someone wearing gloves coated with some rough material?” asked David.
         “Oh, that’s all over the place—watch where you step. The murderer had glued very rough sandpaper onto the palms of the glove and just shredded the woman’s face. It couldn’t have gone on for too long, because the coroner determined that the woman actually died from brain damage caused by bein’ so brutally beaten about the head.”
         “And again, the killer left no evidence behind?”
         “We’ve got some wool fibers but have no real clue as to where they came from.  Maybe the killer’s coat, maybe not.”
         “The doors weren’t locked?”
         “They seemed to have been, and it’s clear the killer came through the rear window, which was not locked.”
         “And nobody heard anything, with this woman being slapped around like that?”
         “She was muffled with a cloth and duct tape. The killer had her seated facin’ a mirror, so the nun had to watch her own flesh being torn off.  And after the first few blows, I doubt the nun was capable of utterin’ a sound.”
         It never occurred to Finger that David would be put off by what he’d seen that morning, so he said, “How about some lunch? A quick one, somewhere near.”
         Of course, David had seen worse crime scenes in his time, and it never occurred to him not to have lunch. They repaired to a local pub, ordered sandwiches, and Finger said, “If you want to have a pint, you’re not on duty.”
         “I’m good. So, what do you know about these women?”
         “Not much from the remainin’ Sisters, who say it’s just too horrible to talk about. I suspect they know the reasons in each case for the way their colleagues were murdered. They were highly predetermined to signal somethin’ to the rest.”
         “Well, I suppose the rosary beads make sense and even the pointer if that nun had been a teacher. As for the blows to the head, I’ve got to think it was pay-back for a teacher who’d inflicted a lot of pain, maybe for slapping the girls silly.”
         “Yeah, that all sounds reasonable,” said Finger, picking at his chips. “I’d like to have a lot more specifics, so we’re trackin’ down some of the women who had been in the Laundries while those particular nuns were there. I don’t think there’s more than one killer, but you never know. Two or more could have ganged together, which would explain a bit about the strength it took to kill those old ladies.”
         “Well, they were old ladies, so I doubt they put up much of a fight,” said David.
         “Probably not, but Adrenalin can be a powerful force when you’re bein’ attacked. At least in the case of the rosary murder.”
         “I know you said there were no fingerprints, but what about foot prints?”
         “In the first two cases the walkways to the premises were concrete. In the third, where the killer came in through the window, ‘twas the usual rainy night in Dublin, and there were some marks in the grass but the killer must have worn plastic bags over his or her shoes.”       
        
“Could you tell anything about the size of the shoe?”
         “No, the killer was smart enough to deliberately slog over the grass to obscure everything.”
         Finger called for the check, and David thought it was a reasonable moment to ask about how a Jew got onto the Garda.
         “Well, for one thing, I’m only half Jewish. Me mum’s Irish.”
         “You were raised as a Catholic?”
         “I might’ve been, but she died when I was only four years old. My father had no interest in religion one way or the other, not a practicin’ Jew by any means, though we’d go through a token observance of the occasional holiday when it suited his purpose. I did go to a parish school, because that’s almost all they have in Ireland. The government pays for them, the Church operates them. Had to take a god-awful amount of religion in school but they never forced me to take the Catholic sacraments.
         “By the time I was ready to choose a career, the only thing that was really Jewish about me was my name, and I reminded the police that the Lord Mayor of Dublin at that time was Jewish, name of Robert Briscoe (right), who had enormous respect from the people and the government. His son Ben followed him in the job.”
         “So no problem with prejudice among the rank and file?”
         “T'was more a question of constant ribbin’, some of it pretty mean, but that’s part of being a cop. I kept my head down, as they say, rose through the ranks, was lucky enough to solve some important cases, and here I am.”
         “So you’re on this present case out of seniority?”
        Finger finished his diet soda, paid the check, put his coat on and said, “Yes and no. I’m not the most senior cop on the force, but my captain—name’s Hannigan—wants this case solved and solved fast. He knows it’s a sensitive subject, a big open sore, what with the background of the Sisters and the reluctance to act against them. He knows this is a dirty business and a lot of the other detectives might not do a thorough job because of their connection to the Church. Me, I’m not a Catholic, so that doesn’t sway me at all and Hannigan knows it. I’m kind of the logical choice. I’m not goin’ to go soft on the nuns when I question them.”

 







©
John Mariani, 2018



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NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER



BEST NEW BOURBONS
By John Mariani

 

 

         This year on his video blog spirits expert Fred Minnick, author of Bourbon: The Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of an American Whiskey, posed the question “Is the Bourbon Boom Over?” by indicating how many publicly traded liquor companies are making products based on what Wall Street wants, rather than what the consumer wants or liquor stores sell, and, based on distributors’ input, that bourbon drinkers are not buying many of the relentless releases of new products. Ironically, he says, the industry itself is doing excellent business, but it’s a slippery slope for new, small distilleries going for a niche market, which, “if not supported by consumers will go away.”
         Let’s look on the bright side, however, because there is a tumult of new bourbons (sometimes old bourbons in new bottles) from both individual producers and from the corporate brands, which, in fact, learned that “small batch” and “reserve” and “special barrel” claims by the little guys have caused the majors to come up with novelties as well, and with bigger ad budgets.(By the way, bourbon distillers have now paraphrased the food cliché “farm to table” as “ground to glass.”)
         Here are but a few bottlings new in the bourbon market.

 

 


JEPTHA CREED DISTILLERY SIX YEAR WHEATED BOURBON ($60). Released this month, it is made of 75% Bloody Butcher corn, 20% malted wheat and 5% malted barley at 93 proof, aged for six years. Joyce Nethery is master distiller, who, with a Master’s in engineering, spent 15 years as a process engineer in industrial scale distillation. She then taught high school chemistry and physics before she and her husband Bruce opened their own distillery on a 1,000-acre farm in Selby County, Kentucky, in 2016

 

JEFFERSON’S TROPICS ($100). Jefferson’s founder, Trey Zoeller,having investigated maturation techniques and environments with his Ocean Aged at Sea Voyage Series, was convinced that climate could affect the maturation process more than the mash bill or barrel itself.Jefferson's Tropics Aged in Humidity depends on year-round intense heat and humidity. He found it in Singapore, shipping nine containers with a combined capacity of 720 barrels of fully matured Kentucky straight bourbon to Singapore in July 2019, where they were exposed to the climate for 18 months. The result is a bourbon of rich flavor and unabashed caramelization caused by the heat cooking the wood’s sugar. It was bottled in Kentucky at a high104 proof.



SAVAGE & COOKE. Owned by Napa Valley winemaker Dave Phinney, this distillery, named California Bourbon Distillery of the year at the New York International Spirits Competition, is located on historic Mare Island and opened in 2018. “The heirloom corn we get from nearby Winters, California, is the perfect example,” he says. “It makes these bottled=in-bond whiskeys so special. It was a long wait, but with each new release, we see how our patience paid off.” This spring he released two new bottled-in-bond bourbons in very limited supply. Howling Mob ($95), with just 31 barrels at 100 proof, using 93% corn and 7% malted barley, and Bloody Butcher ($99), made from 44 carefully selected barrels, to become an annual release. These are a California-style whiskey, full-bodied but not overpowering and aimed at a sophisticated audience.

 

CASEY JONES INITIAL ECLIPSE BOURBON ($50). This is a four-grain bourbon, made from  corn,  wheat,  rye and malted barley, each aged a minimum of two years in a four-char white oak barrel  in small batches at 100 proof from a hybrid pot still designed by long-time producer A.J. Jones, who founded the distillery in 2014. It has a fine nutty quality and creaminess with a hint of sweetness and pleasing finish.  Named after the 2017 eclipse, the bourbon was named the “Official Spirit of the 2017 Total Solar Eclipse” by Senator Whitney Westerfield on the Kentucky Senate floor.


BARREL CRAFT SPIRITS CASK FINISH SERIES MIZUNARA ($90). This limited-release expression is a blend of 6-, 7- and 9-year-old bourbons from Indiana, 8- and 14-year-olds from Kentucky and an 8-eight-year-old Tennessee further aged for one and a half years in Japanese Mizunara oak casks and bottled at cask strength (116.42 proof), from a mash bill of corn (76%), rye (20%), and malted barley (4%).


B.R. BLUE NOTE RESERVE. Out of Memphis, though not classified as Tennessee Whiskey, there are actually four “expressions” in the Blue Note Line, including Juke Joint ($35), Juke Joint Uncut ($50), Crossroads ($45),  and Special Reserve ($25), which is a blend of seven different finishing techniques on bourbons  comprised of three different mash bills distilled in Kentucky and Tennessee ranging from 4 to 19 years of age. It is then  finished up to three additional years in Cognac, Madeira, Sherry, Port, vino de Naranja, and American white oak barrels, bottled at 112.5 proof.  

 

BRUSH CREEK STRAIGHT ($60). Many bourbon producers depend on other distilleries for maturing barrels of whiskey. Brush Creek selects from hundreds from Kentucky, Indian and Tennessee, transferring them to its “barrel barn” to continue to age for four to twelve years. Since Brush Creek began in 2019, in Saratoga, Wyoming, they’ve waited till now for their first release, at 94 proof. In the future they plan on having their own on-site distillery.

             


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THE MICE WERE RELEASED TW0
DAYS LATER AT AMAZON'S
EMPLOYEE CAFETERIA

According to the NY Post, a video is circulating of a rodent in the bar at Balthazar, which owner Keith McNally believes was an act of revenge after McNally’s inflammatory Instagram post in which he called Jeff Bezos and fiancée media personality, Lauren Sanchez, “revolting.” A few days later,  McNally said that, at 8:30 p.m. a man at the bar “released six domesticated white mice from a paper bag, and ran out of the restaurant.” A bartender, he says, ran after the man, while “the mice were quickly caught.” 










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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2024