MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


  
FEBRUARY 2, 2025                                                                                     NEWSLETTER

 

 


Founded in 1996 

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"The Day After" By Edvard Munch (1895)

        

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THIS WEEK
HOW NOT TO BE SPOTTED AS AN
AMERICAN TOURIST ABROAD

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
RAFAEL   
By John Mariani


THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
CHAPTER FIFTY-FOUR

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
FIRST-RATE AMERICAN WHITE WINES
THAT ARE NOT CHARDONNAY

By John Mariani



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HOW NOT TO BE SPOTTED AS AN
AMERICAN TOURIST ABROAD

By John Mariani



 

    It’s hard  not to notice Europeans sizing you up at a restaurant––they do it to everybody––but to be spotted so obviously as an American is rather off-putting. But we bring it on ourselves. Outside of Asia where any European or American will stand out,  Londoners, Florentines and Berliners can tell at a glance if you are an American behaving as they expect you to. Scoffing is a regular pastime among them, just as Texans scoff at New Yorkers and Los Angelenos do San Franciscans.

         There are some things that are just not done in European countries where such things matter and may be a faux pas that exposes one’s class or lack thereof. Here are some tips on how to avoid that possibility.

         Clothes are an obvious giveaway: Most Europeans wince when they see an American wearing chinos or cargo shorts with white sox and a Hawaiian shirt. Flip-flops are not worn off the beach. Baseball caps are not worn backwards and t-shirts should not carry a garish message about your drinking habits or sexual preferences.

         When it comes to food and drink there are plenty of errors Americans make, just like seeing a Brit eat barbecued ribs with a knife and fork, or a Parisian ordering Champagne at a dive bar.

 

Iced tea is not something easily found in Europe, and they are not inclined or prepared to make it for you.

 



Never ask for ice cubes in your wine, especially red wine.

 

Europeans do drink Coca-Cola, not least with pizza in the middle of the day, but it is not a drink fit for dinner.

 








Don’t order a frozen cocktail like a daiquiri or margarita, because an electric mixer is unlikely to be part of a bar’s equipment and the ice dilutes a properly made drink.

 


Ordering a Cosmopolitan cocktail will bewilder bartenders abroad, who consider the drink an example of American overkill.

 

Stifle your look of dismay when a whole fish includes the head and tail, which is the way it is served in Europe.

 

For no known reason, switching your knife and fork from one hand to another is strictly American and looks bizarre to a European.

 

Folding pizza is not unknown in Italy, where it is called a libretto (little book), but it is the exception rather than the rule of using a knife and fork to cut up a slice.

 

Although most kitchens catering to tourists will have a bottle of ketchup and hot sauce on hand, asking for them will mark you as an American in the same way asking for  vinegar with French fries in the U.S. marks you as a Belgian.

 



One does not tip in a pub in the UK or Ireland.


In the U.S., twirling spaghetti into a tablespoon before eating is regarded as uncouth in Italy.

 


 

In Italy, ordering cappuccino after noontime is considered barbaric.

 



Never ask for more pasta sauce. Italian cooks only use as much as they believe is best for an individual dish.

 

Ordering your meat well-done is a sure giveaway you are uncouth.

 

Cutting up asparagus is frowned upon. Using a fork is okay but it’s actually better to pick it up and nibble on it.

 

Never take a bread roll, cut it in half, butter it and stuff it in your mouth. Break off a morsel with your fingers, butter it and eat it so your face isn’t scrunched up with such a large piece.

 




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NEW YORK CORNER


RAFAEL
973 Lexington Avenue

 646-918-7971

By  John Mariani
PHOTOS BY PATRICK DOLANDE
           

 

 

        Mediterranean restaurants are not exactly rife on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, so the recent addition of Rafael adds measurably to the neighborhood’s increasing diversity. Chef Rafael (Rafi) Hasid of 6R Hospitality Group waves a wide hand over the Mediterranean region, after success with Miriam in Park Slope and a branch on the Upper West Side.

Along with Executive Chef Francisco Da Silva Rosa , he has fashioned a menu  at Rafael that borrows from Provence, Italy, Lebanon and Israel, and the best way to appreciate it all is to bring friends and share everything placed before you.

Rafael is set within a landmarked two-story townhouse that was previously an Italian restaurant, and architect Amanda Sullivan has designed a front room done with olive wood tables and colors of blue and gold; down a staircase you find curved banquettes and tiled bar. On the mezzanine level, up a winding staircase, is a small, intimate room with two large circular tables ideal for family-style or communal mezze sharing, as well as a charming nook overlooking the street. The main room has large windows and a curved  fresco-secco wall as a showcase for regional objets d’art.

The service staff is terrifically amiable and helpful with some of the more unfamiliar dishes, and they’ll advise as to portion size for sharing. Our table of four ate ravenously and still took a lot home.

    There are both appetizers and mezze on the menu, and among the former, the lentil and vegetable soup is warming and hearty on this bleak winter nights. In a city where octopus seems on every menu, the version at Rafael takes on novel dimensions via roasted sweet potato, sautéed arugula, caper berries and chermoula sauce. There is, of course, fresh, warm pita bread to top, push and scoop everything on your plates.           

         Clearly you could make a meal of appetizers and mezze, including muhammara of roasted peppers mashed with walnuts, pomegranate and a swirl of molasses. Goat’s cheese is blended in with white beans, Kalamata olives and a sweet-tart tomato confit. There are several more, including baba ghanoush and tzatziki. Since the entrees are expensive, apps, soup, salads and mezze are a more moderate way to go.

         But the entrees––in generous portions that lend themselves to sharing–– offer some of the best items on the menu, starting with impeccably roasted chicken with mashed potatoes, glazed carrots, and a za’atar-seasoned butter sauce. A large striped bass didn’t look very pretty on the plate but, with carrots, shallots, cherry tomatoes and a wine and butter sauce adding to the sweet flesh and the crispy, edible skin, but it was delicious.

         The lamb shoulder spent a good long time simmering away in its well-spiced braising liquid, served over rice and noodles, with pine nuts, raisins and tomato; a bone-in short rib was similarly long cooked to a fall-from-the-bone tenderness, served with Brussels sprout, shiitakes and a sweet pomegranate glaze. The sweet and sour elements are key to Mediterranean food, along with a little kick of heat.

         There is also a puzzling corn schnitzel on the menu, which turned out to be crispy flattened corn cakes atop mashed potatoes and an Israeli salad. They went with everything else on the table.

         Traditional desserts all get a hint of the Mediterranean, as with a tahini  brûleé with its caramelized crust, and a cardamon spice torte with lush crème anglaise.

         Our party arrived around 7:30 with the place already close to full, and a lot of people were clearly from around the neighborhood, some already becoming regulars. They may not have ordered as lavishly as our party––we were still busy eating when the place began to empty out around nine––but most took food home, and Rafael does a brisk take-out business. The place has caught on fast––a relief from so many so-so Italian, sushi restaurants and burger bars in the neighborhood. With its warm welcome, Rafael is certainly a familial place, and  after just three months it seems to be headed for a long tenure in this  lovely townhouse.

 

 

Appetizers at dinner are $ 16-$28; main courses $41-$54.


 

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

 

 






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THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES
By  John Mariani




CHAPTER FIFTY-FOUR

 

 

         Despite the delay in Dublin, the Aer Lingus flight was poised to land at JFK on time at two o’clock in the afternoon under a brilliant, sunny blue sky. The flight took them over Long Island and the clean white sand strip of Jones Beach and the small shapeless swampy islets that led to the Rockaways, landing lightly and taxiing to the gate. Katie was feeling uneasy again.

         As the Business Section of the plane emptied out, Katie and David, together with the policeman and the sky marshal,  saw a uniformed TSA man with a sign reading “CAVUTO-GRECO,” who led them out of the arrivals area and quickly through Customs. Upon exiting into the terminal, they were approached by two NYPD officers.

         “I know both these guys!” said David, elated both to be back on American soil and to find his old colleagues waiting. Seeing David smiling and embracing the two officers, Katie felt her anxiety drop away her for the first time in days.

         The officers walked them out of the terminal, and David noticed several TSA people on their phones monitoring their exit. The officers had an unmarked car waiting at the curb and helped Katie and David into the back seat.

         “Welcome back, Greco,” said a plainclothes policeman in the front seat next to the driver. David smiled from ear to ear and said, “Rossi, they got you chauffeuring me home? How the hell are you, family good?”

         “Everybody’s fine. Good to see you, David. Glad you got home safe. We heard there was some trouble in Dublin.”

         “More than enough for one trip,” said David and introduced Katie to the men, who acknowledged they knew of Katie and her reputation as a journalist.

         “Whaddaya doing hanging around with this old man?” asked Rossi.

         “Oh, this old man’s pretty good in a pinch,” said Katie, nudging David.

         “Bet he is,” said Rossi, winking at David. “So, first we’ll get you home, Katie, then drive David up the Hudson. Hope you don’t mind us talking some old times on the way.”

         Rossi was about ten years younger than David and had served on his rackets team. Now he was an Inspector, with the New York City airports his territory. David caught up on the news about mutual friends, and in twenty minutes the car pulled up to Katie’s home on Campbell Drive in the Bronx.

         “So, we survived another one,” said Katie, giving David a hug. “I’m getting too old for this sort of thing.”

         You’re getting too old? Believe me, if it weren’t for you we’d both be floating somewhere in Dublin Bay.”

         Katie said that she’d be finishing off the story as quickly as possible at the office, “with Alan hanging over my shoulder,” and that David would have to come in to go over details, maybe in three or four days. It sounded like forever to David to be away from Katie.

 

 

                                                           *                         *                         *  
            

 

         The work went well, and Alan Dobell gave Katie as much support as possible, having other reporters chase down leads, check phone numbers and addresses, calling hotels and parishes and feeding her endless questions as her copy came in.

         She had been so busy and spent so much time at the office, she had put thoughts of any further attacks on her out of her mind and found the office was as secure a place as she could be for most of the day. David came by after a week to deliver more information and confirm what Katie had written so far. He never felt comfortable around all those brainy, young journalists, as he had always suspected their motives when he was a cop, always looking for an angle, questioning cops’ veracity.

         But in a very real way, David was a hero to McClure’s staff, not only because he had been through harrowing times with Katie but because he really had added a police inspector’s expertise on so many counts.

         By the time Katie was nearly finished her first draft,  Dobell was trying to puzzle out if the story needed any further reporting. He certainly was not about to send Katie and David back to Dublin unless there was another murder or mutilation. But he did think that Katie’s story would be stronger if she confronted some of the Church officials on this side of the Atlantic, at least give them a chance to respond to her charges.

         Katie asked David what his police friends like Tommy Sullivan or Maria Colón thought about going to see the Archbishop of New York, Edward Egan, but they said the case would be weak unless a high official’s name was in the Network’s book. Egan’s wasn’t, but Bernard Francis Law’s was—the Archbishop of Boston, the one who had slammed shut the Boston Globe investigation back in the 1980s.

         “I think you should pay this guy Law a visit,” said Dobell. “Tell him what you’ve been up to—and I’ve got a feeling he’s well aware of you—then show him the book, get his reaction, then ask him what his name is doing in the book. Put his feet to the fire.”

         Katie agreed. “Should David come along?”

         “I don’t see why you’d need him for a simple one-on-one interview. Just call the diocese, get an appointment and fly up there. It should be the clincher and the closer to the story.”

 

 

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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

Some of the Best Current California
White Wines  Are Not Chardonnay
By John Mariani




         It’s still true that in the U.S. Chardonnay outsells all other American white wines combined, but recent trends in the market show that while Chardonnay fell 4.7% in 2024, both Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio (or Pinot Gris) gained in sales––not by much, but the trend is upwards, according to Meininger’s International.

         Some of Chardonnay’s decline may be due to the rising prices on the varietal, especially among prestigious labels who are charging $50 and up per bottle for wines that are sometimes too high in alcohol, cloying caramelized and charred oak flavors. Chardonnay, which is a fairly neutral grape that lends itself to such manipulating.

         The reason that few other white American wines lacked any traction until recently is because they were either lackluster, like the ocean of Italian Pinot Grigios exported or, like the grassiness in Sauvignon Blanc and the pungent aromatics of Viognier and Gewürztraminer. Over the past decade, however, wineries have learned to produce these lesser varietals with  better balance. California vintners’ Sauvignon Blanc, in particular, tried to copy the immensely popular of New Zealand’s Cloud Bay, which tasted more like Hawaiian Punch poured over grape leaves.

         American Sauvignon Blancs (sometimes called Fumé Blancs) have since departed from that over-ripe, perfumed style, as well as cut back on the intensity of aromatics in Viognier and Gewürztraminer, while allowing Pinot Grigios to develop more body than so many bland examples still in the market.

         Here are some I applaud for just those reasons:

 

 

ETUDE PINOT GRIS GRACE BENOIST RANCH ESTATE 2021 ($35). At about two-thirds the price of Chardonnay of this quality, Etude’s Pinot Gris gains from a little more aging than the usual one-to-two years. The estate is planted with Alsatian clones, and 2021 was very favorable for well-ripened fruit. The wine stayed on the lees for four months and aged in stainless steel, never seeing the inside of an oak barrel, so its freshness and creaminess along with minerality makes for an impressive white wine. 

 

 

 

WILLIAM HILL ESTATE 2023 SAUVIGNON BLANC ($16). There is a good deal of fruit flavor in this wine, not least a pleasing citrus spark and sweet pear component. The winery has changed hands several times, now owned by Gallo since 2007, and the screw top cap should put off no one who enjoys an easy to drink white wine as either an aperitif or with cream sauces and pastas like cacio e pepe.

 

 

ALEXANA PINOT GRIS HILLSIDES 2023 ($35). This fine example comes from the oldest Pinot Gris vines in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, from Alexana Estate, Stone Ridge Vineyard and Stone Ridge Vineyard, planted only in 2021 and fermented in either stainless steel or neutral oak (sometimes French oak).  The soil contains plenty of sedimentary silt and volcanic stone that adds measurably to the minerality of the grapes to provide the wines with levels if nuanced flavors.

 

 

STAGS’ LEAP SAUVIGNON BLANC  2023  ($35). As a winery Stags’ Leap has quite a pedigree, founded in 1872 and has had several caretakers since, currently Beringer, now Treasury Wine Estates. It spends a moderate seven-month aging period in 38% neutral oak and in addition emerges with a big 14.2% alcohol, so it’s a formidable example of Sauvignon Blanc with a long, elegant finish. Very good with shellfish.

 

 






SAN SIMEON PASO ROBLES VIOGNIER ($19).  Paso Robles is a dry climate that produces ripe fruit, but the cool nights keep the acidity to balance things out. It has a lovely bouquet of fruit, not flowers, and boasts 14.9% alcohol, which is very high, fermented in stainless steel exclusively. It, too, has a screwcap, which, like New Zealand wines, is wholly admirable at this point in stopper history. Viognier can be flabby but the acid here lessens that without dropping the critical fruit flavors of peach and a touch of sweetness.

 


 















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 WE COULD BE WRONG BUT WE'D RECOMMEND TELLING THE WAITER

"What To Do If Your Steak Isn't Cooked Right At A Restaurant" By Erin Metz, Food Republic.

 






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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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