MARIANI’S Virtual Gourmet
ARCHIVE ![]() "The Day After" By Edvard Munch (1895)
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THIS WEEK HOW NOT TO BE SPOTTED AS AN AMERICAN TOURIST ABROAD By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER RAFAEL By John Mariani THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES CHAPTER FIFTY-FOUR By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR FIRST-RATE AMERICAN WHITE WINES THAT ARE NOT CHARDONNAY By John Mariani ❖❖❖
HOW NOT TO BE SPOTTED AS AN
AMERICAN TOURIST ABROAD By John Mariani ![]()
It’s hard not
to notice Europeans sizing you up at a
restaurant––they do it to everybody––but to
be spotted so obviously as an American is
rather off-putting. But we bring it on
ourselves. Outside of Asia where any
European or American will stand out, Londoners,
Florentines and Berliners can tell at a
glance if you are an American behaving as
they expect you to. Scoffing is a regular
pastime among them, just as Texans scoff at
New Yorkers and Los Angelenos do San
Franciscans.
Clothes are an obvious giveaway: Most
Europeans wince when they see an American
wearing chinos or cargo shorts with white sox
and a Hawaiian shirt. Flip-flops are not worn
off the beach. Baseball caps are not worn
backwards and t-shirts should not carry a
garish message about your drinking habits or
sexual preferences.
When it comes to food and drink there
are plenty of errors Americans make, just like
seeing a Brit eat barbecued ribs with a knife
and fork, or a Parisian ordering Champagne at
a dive bar. Iced
tea is not something easily found in Europe,
and they are not inclined or prepared to make
it for you.
Never
ask for ice cubes in your wine, especially red
wine. Europeans
do drink Coca-Cola, not least with pizza in
the middle of the day, but it is not
Don’t
order a frozen cocktail like a daiquiri or
margarita, because an electric mixer is
unlikely to be part of a bar’s equipment and
the ice dilutes a properly made drink. ![]()
Stifle
your look of dismay when a whole fish includes
the head and tail, which is the For
no known reason, switching your knife and fork
from one hand to another is strictly American
and looks bizarre to a European. Folding
pizza is not unknown in Italy, where it is
called a libretto (little book), but
it is the exception rather than the rule of
using a knife and fork to cut up a slice. Although
most kitchens catering to tourists will have a
bottle of ketchup and hot sauce on hand,
asking for them will mark you as an American
in the same way asking for vinegar
with French fries in the U.S. marks you as a
Belgian.
One
does not tip in a pub in the UK or Ireland.
In
the U.S., twirling spaghetti into a tablespoon
before eating is regarded as uncouth in Italy.
In
Italy, ordering cappuccino after noontime is
considered barbaric.
Ordering
your meat well-done is a sure giveaway you are
uncouth. Cutting
up asparagus is frowned upon. Using a fork is
okay but it’s actually better to pick it up
and nibble on it. Never
take a bread roll, cut it in half, butter it
and stuff it in your mouth. Break off a morsel
with your fingers, butter it and eat it so
your face isn’t scrunched up with such a large
piece. ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER RAFAEL
973 Lexington Avenue 646-918-7971 By
John Mariani
PHOTOS BY PATRICK DOLANDE ![]()
Mediterranean restaurants are not
exactly rife on Manhattan’s Upper East Side,
so the recent addition of Rafael adds
measurably to the neighborhood’s increasing
diversity.
Chef Rafael (Rafi) Hasid of 6R
Hospitality Group waves a wide hand over the
Mediterranean region, after success with
Miriam in Park Slope and a branch on the Upper
West Side.
Rafael is
set within a landmarked two-story townhouse that
was previously an Italian restaurant, and
architect Amanda
Sullivan has designed a front room done with
olive wood tables and colors of blue and gold;
down a staircase you find curved banquettes and
tiled bar. On the mezzanine level, up a winding
staircase, is a small, intimate room with two
large circular tables ideal for family-style or
communal mezze sharing, as well as a
charming nook overlooking the street. The main
room has large windows and a curved fresco-secco
wall as a showcase for regional objets d’art. The service staff is terrifically amiable
and helpful with some of the more unfamiliar
dishes, and they’ll advise as to portion size
for sharing. Our table of four ate ravenously
and still took a lot home. There
are both appetizers and mezze on the
menu, and among the former, the lentil and
vegetable soup is warming and hearty on this
bleak winter nights. In a city where octopus
seems on every menu, the version at Rafael takes
on novel dimensions via roasted sweet potato,
sautéed arugula, caper berries and chermoula
sauce. There is, of course, fresh, warm pita
bread to top, push and scoop everything on
your plates.
Clearly you could make a meal of
appetizers and mezze, including muhammara
of roasted peppers mashed with walnuts,
pomegranate and a swirl of molasses. Goat’s
cheese is blended in with white beans, Kalamata
olives and a sweet-tart tomato confit. There are
several more, including baba ghanoush
and tzatziki. Since the entrees are
expensive, apps, soup, salads and mezze are a
more moderate way to go.
The lamb shoulder spent a good long time
simmering away in its well-spiced braising
liquid, served over rice and noodles, with pine
nuts, raisins and tomato; a bone-in short rib
was similarly long cooked to a
fall-from-the-bone tenderness, served with
Brussels sprout, shiitakes and a sweet
pomegranate glaze. The sweet and sour elements
are key to Mediterranean food, along with a
little kick of heat.
There is also a puzzling corn schnitzel
on the menu, which turned out to be crispy
flattened corn cakes atop mashed potatoes and an
Israeli salad. They went with everything else on
the table.
Traditional desserts all get a hint of
the Mediterranean, as with a tahini brûleé
with its caramelized crust, and a cardamon spice
torte with lush crème anglaise.
Our party arrived around 7:30 with the
place already close to full, and a lot of people
were clearly from around the neighborhood, some
already becoming regulars. They may not have
ordered as lavishly as our party––we were still
busy eating when the place began to empty out
around nine––but most took food home, and Rafael
does a brisk take-out business. The place has
caught on fast––a relief from so many so-so
Italian, sushi restaurants and burger bars in
the neighborhood. With its warm welcome, Rafael
is certainly a familial place, and after
just three months it seems to be headed for a
long tenure in this lovely
townhouse. Appetizers at dinner
are $ 16-$28; main courses $41-$54.
Open for breakfast,
lunch and dinner daily. ❖❖❖
THE MAGDALENE LAUNDRIES By John Mariani CHAPTER FIFTY-FOUR
Despite the delay in
Dublin, the Aer Lingus flight was poised to
land at JFK on time at two o’clock in the
afternoon under a brilliant, sunny blue sky.
The flight took them over Long Island and
the clean white sand strip of Jones Beach
and the small shapeless swampy islets that
led to the Rockaways, landing lightly and
taxiing to the gate. Katie was feeling
uneasy again.
As the Business Section of the plane
emptied out, Katie and David, together with
the policeman and the sky marshal, saw a
uniformed TSA man with a sign reading
“CAVUTO-GRECO,” who led them out of the
arrivals area and quickly through Customs.
Upon exiting into the terminal, they were
approached by two NYPD officers.
“I know both these guys!” said David,
elated both to be back on American soil and
to find his old colleagues waiting. Seeing
David smiling and embracing the two
officers, Katie felt her anxiety drop away
her for the first time in days.
The officers walked them out of the
terminal, and David noticed several TSA
people on their phones monitoring their
exit. The officers had an unmarked car
waiting at the curb and helped Katie and
David into the back seat.
“Welcome back, Greco,” said a
plainclothes policeman in the front seat
next to the driver. David smiled from ear to
ear and said, “Rossi, they got you
chauffeuring me home? How the hell are you,
family good?”
“Everybody’s fine. Good to see you,
David. Glad you got home safe. We heard
there was some trouble in Dublin.”
“More than enough for one trip,” said
David and introduced Katie to the men, who
acknowledged they knew of Katie and her
reputation as a journalist.
“Whaddaya doing hanging around with
this old man?” asked Rossi.
“Oh, this old man’s pretty good in a
pinch,” said Katie, nudging David.
“Bet he is,” said Rossi, winking at
David. “So, first we’ll get you home, Katie,
then drive David up the Hudson. Hope you
don’t mind us talking some old times on the
way.”
Rossi was about ten years younger
than David and had served on his rackets
team. Now he was an Inspector, with the New
York City airports his territory. David
caught up on the news about mutual friends,
and in twenty minutes the car pulled up to
Katie’s home on Campbell Drive in the Bronx.
“So, we survived another one,” said
Katie, giving David a hug. “I’m getting too
old for this sort of thing.”
“You’re
getting too old? Believe me, if it weren’t
for you we’d both be floating somewhere in
Dublin Bay.”
Katie said that she’d be finishing
off the story as quickly as possible at the
office, “with Alan hanging over my
shoulder,” and that David would have to come
in to go over details, maybe in three or
four days. It sounded like forever to David
to be away from Katie.
*
*
*
The work went well, and
Alan Dobell gave Katie as much support as
possible, having other reporters chase down
leads, check phone numbers and addresses,
calling hotels and parishes and feeding her
endless questions as her copy came in.
She had been so busy and spent so
much time at the office, she had put
thoughts of any further attacks on her out
of her mind and found the office was as
secure a place as she could be for most of
the day. David came by after a week to
deliver more information and confirm what
Katie had written so far. He never felt
comfortable around all those brainy, young
journalists, as he had always suspected
their motives when he was a cop, always
looking for an angle, questioning cops’
veracity.
But in a very real way, David was a
hero to McClure’s
staff, not only because he had been through
harrowing times with Katie but because he
really had added a police inspector’s
expertise on so many counts.
By the time Katie was nearly finished
her first draft, Dobell
was trying to puzzle out if the story needed
any further reporting. He certainly was not
about to send Katie and David back to Dublin
unless there was another murder or
mutilation. But he did think that Katie’s
story would be stronger if she confronted
some of the Church officials on this side of
the Atlantic, at least give them a chance to
respond to her charges.
Katie asked David what his police
friends like Tommy Sullivan or Maria Colón
thought about going to see the Archbishop of
New York, Edward Egan, but they said the
case would be weak unless a high official’s
name was in the Network’s book. Egan’s
wasn’t, but Bernard Francis Law’s was—the
Archbishop of Boston, the one who had
slammed shut the Boston
Globe investigation back in the 1980s.
“I think you should pay this guy Law
a visit,” said Dobell. “Tell him what you’ve
been up to—and I’ve got a feeling he’s well
aware of you—then show him the book, get his
reaction, then ask him what his name is
doing in the book. Put his feet to the
fire.”
Katie agreed. “Should David come
along?”
“I don’t see why you’d need him for a
simple one-on-one interview. Just call the
diocese, get an appointment and fly up
there. It should be the clincher and the
closer to the story.” NOTES FROM THE WINE
CELLAR
Some of the Best Current California White Wines Are Not Chardonnay By John Mariani
It’s still true that in
the U.S. Chardonnay outsells all other
American white wines combined, but recent
trends in the market show that while
Chardonnay fell 4.7% in 2024, both Sauvignon
Blanc and Pinot Grigio (or Pinot Gris)
gained in sales––not by much, but the trend
is upwards, according to Meininger’s International.
Some of Chardonnay’s decline may be due
to the rising prices on the varietal,
especially among prestigious labels who are
charging $50 and up per bottle for wines that
are sometimes too high in alcohol, cloying
caramelized and charred oak flavors.
Chardonnay, which is a fairly neutral grape
that lends itself to such manipulating.
The reason that few other white
American wines lacked any traction until
recently is because they were either
lackluster, like the ocean of Italian Pinot
Grigios exported or, like the grassiness in
Sauvignon Blanc and the pungent aromatics of
Viognier and Gewürztraminer. Over the past
decade, however, wineries have learned to
produce these lesser varietals with better
balance. California vintners’ Sauvignon Blanc,
in particular, tried to copy the immensely
popular of New Zealand’s Cloud Bay, which
tasted more like Hawaiian Punch poured over
grape leaves.
American Sauvignon Blancs (sometimes
called Fumé Blancs) have since departed from
that over-ripe, perfumed style, as well as cut
back on the intensity of aromatics in Viognier
and Gewürztraminer, while allowing Pinot
Grigios to develop more body than so many
bland examples still in the market.
Here are some I applaud for just those
reasons: ETUDE
PINOT GRIS GRACE BENOIST RANCH ESTATE 2021
($35). At about two-thirds the price of
Chardonnay of this quality, Etude’s Pinot Gris
gains from a little more aging than the usual
one-to-two years. The estate is planted with
Alsatian clones, and 2021 was very favorable
for well-ripened fruit. The wine stayed on the
lees for four months and aged in stainless
steel, never seeing the inside of an oak
barrel, so its freshness and creaminess along
with minerality makes for an impressive white
wine. WILLIAM
HILL
ESTATE 2023 SAUVIGNON BLANC ($16). There is a
good deal of fruit flavor in this wine, not
least a pleasing citrus spark and sweet pear
component. The winery has changed hands
several times, now owned by Gallo since 2007,
and the screw top cap should put off no one
who enjoys an easy to drink white wine as
either an aperitif or with cream sauces and
pastas like cacio e pepe. ALEXANA PINOT GRIS
HILLSIDES 2023 ($35). This fine example comes
from the oldest Pinot Gris vines in Oregon’s
Willamette Valley, from Alexana Estate, Stone
Ridge Vineyard and Stone Ridge Vineyard,
planted only in 2021 and fermented in either
stainless steel or neutral oak (sometimes
French oak). The
soil contains plenty of sedimentary silt and
volcanic stone that adds measurably to the
minerality of the grapes to provide the wines
with levels if nuanced flavors. STAGS’ LEAP SAUVIGNON
BLANC 2023 ($35).
As
a winery Stags’ Leap has quite a pedigree,
founded in 1872 and has had several caretakers
since, currently Beringer,
now Treasury Wine Estates. It spends a
moderate seven-month aging period in 38%
neutral oak and in addition emerges with a
big 14.2% alcohol, so it’s a formidable
example of Sauvignon Blanc with a long,
elegant finish. Very good with shellfish.
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"What To Do
If Your Steak Isn't Cooked Right At A Restaurant" By
Erin Metz, Food Republic. ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. ![]() WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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