MARIANI’S Virtual Gourmet
Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() "Atamonte Alnadraba Tuna Fishermen" By Joaquin Sorolla (1912)
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THIS WEEK ANDRIA IN PUGLIA By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER CARLOTTO By John Mariani HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE CHAPTER ONE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR By John Mariani ❖❖❖
ANDRIA IN PUGLIA By John Mariani ![]() Andria
is the fourth-largest city in Italy’s Puglia
province, only six miles from the
Adriatic coast, and quite a sophisticated
city it is, though largely unknown to
foreign tourists who are more likely to
visit Bari, Alberobello and Lecce. Walking
down the broad, tree-lined Corso Cavour at
twilight is to experience the passagiata
of locals strolling arm in arm, nodding to
everyone, looking in the boutique
windows, getting café or pizza or gelato
along the way.
Like
much smaller towns, Andria is crammed
with churches of various interest, including
Sant’Agostino built by the
Teutonic Knights and San Nicola di Myra, built
over grottoes. There’s a Ducal
Palace, and fifteen miles outside of town is a
UNESCO World Heritage site worth
a trip––the 13th century octagonal
Castel del Monte (left). Beyond
its
municipality lies the Alta Murgia National
Park spread over 67,000 miles and
populated by wild horses and eagles.
Both
hotels and modern B&Bs are remarkably
inexpensive, so that even the fine,
glass and steel
Cristal Palace Hotel,
with a sports center, heated pool and gym,
flower garden and lawn is currently
charging only $107 per night. Most of the restaurants and trattorias in Andria serve traditional Puglian food––orrecchiete with broccoli di rabe, fava beans and chicory, spaghetti all’assassina cooked in red wine––but there are also some very contemporary restaurants prized for their innovation, including Restrosena (Via Ettore Carafa 12; right), which serves a tartare of pheasant with figs cooked in red wine, cardoons and black pepper; “French toast” with a sashimi of salmon, avocado and cream cheese; and pacchero pasta with tiny squid, anchovies, broccoli and ricotta. It also has a very extensive wine list, with many Puglian bottlings.
But
I was quite amazed when my wife and I
read
about and saw the menu at Il Turaciollo
(Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II,
4; below), where the owners, Elena Fucci
and chef Luciano
Matera, have for 20 years been on the
front line of innovation. Luciano bounds from
table to table exuberantly
telling you about the menu, the specials and
the wines
Despite
its age, the restaurant itself looks
brand new and scrubbed, with arches,
half-stone
walls, tile floors and wooden tables set
with individual lamps. Luciano
promises a “touch of creativity in
every dish,” and he fulfilled that promise for
us starting off with puffy, warm
focaccia and a series of crostini––small
dishes set on crusts of
bread––one, with anchovies, small balls of
mozzarella and tomatoes, the other
of fried zucchini chips and red peppers.
Next was pork that had been caramelized
and
cooked wine and dusted with herbs, along
with a capocollo, the
On
our trip we had been meandering north from
Lecce along the coast and Andria
seemed like a reasonable overnight stop. But
it proved much
more than that for its beauty and a
culture built on centuries of conflict that
have now coalesced into one of the
loveliest cities in Puglia. After our meal,
we, too, were strolling arm in
arm, nodding
and smiling at the younger
Adrians still enjoying the warm evening on the
broad Corso Cavour.
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NEW YORK CORNER CARLOTTO
100
East 19th Street 212-209-1054 ![]()
It seems as
useless to complain about yet
another Italian restaurant opening in New York
as it would about a new seafood
restaurant opening in Venice or a sushi bar in
Kyoto. For although the increase
in exciting Indian, Thai, Mexican and Korean
opening weekly in New York’s five
boroughs is applaudable, if a place
is good, it’s good,
and no amount of sniffing at one serving yet
another version of cacio e pepe––now
challenged by penne all’arrabiata––has
stopped anyone from opening yet another
Italian
place, whether a trattoria or a ristorante
from debuting in any part of
town. Chef
Andy
Kitko, Connecticut
born, is not
tied to an all-Italian menu, bringing in ideas
from the whole Mediterranean and
even the Pacific, gleaned from experience that
began at the Ritz in San Francisco
and then New
York’s French bistro Café
Boulud and the Greek seafood spot, Estiatorio
Milos. There’s
a
good three-course prix fixe dinner at $65
(one app; pasta or secondo;
dessert) and a selection of Italian salamis. We
were quickly be brought some light, airy focaccia,
though one slice was warm, the
other cold. The
antipasti
number nine dishes, including a terrific
slow-roasted lamb
“presse” with a salsa verde,
pickled
chanterelles and crunchy walnuts. Grilled octopus
has a side of corona beans, hot and
spicy ‘nduja sausage and a drizzle of
basil oil.
The
capability
of so many chefs these days to roast a good
chicken is evident in
Kitko’s succulent, crispy rendering, while the
short ribs stracotto cooked in
Monteplulciano
wine with crushed potatoes and asparagus is an
impressive triumph of many flavors.
Carlotto’s veal chop parmesan (a dish now
ubiquitous and, happily, back in fashion)
starts with a one-pound veal chop pounded to
spread over the plate, sauced with
tomato and fresh mozzarella.
The
bartenders
know precisely what they are doing, both with
classic drinks and
signatures, though prices above $22 is a bit wince
induing. There’s little one
could possibly ask for that isn’t on the wine
list. So
here
we have another upscale Italian restaurants,
civilized and full of good cheer
and fine cuisine. If there are more like Carlotto
on the horizon––and there
will be––I, for one, couldn’t be happier.
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HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE By John Mariani ![]()
CHAPTER ONE
“I’ve done my
best, in regard to people and to life, without
precepts, but with a taste for justice.” ― Coco Chanel
© John Mariani, 2024 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
By John Mariani ❖❖❖ ![]() HE CAME UP WITH THE IDEA AFTER CLOSING THE PYONG-YANG ZOO WHEN THE CLAM DIED Affable North Korean dictator Kim Jong-un has opened a sea cucumber farm to tourists. ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. ![]() WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
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