MARIANI’S

Virtual Gourmet


 
MARCH 2, 2025                                                                                                           NEWSLETTER



Founded in 1996 

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"Atamonte Alnadraba Tuna Fishermen" By Joaquin Sorolla (1912)

        

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THIS WEEK
ANDRIA IN PUGLIA
By John Mariani


NEW YORK CORNER
CARLOTTO

By John Mariani


HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
CHAPTER ONE

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR

By John Mariani



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ANDRIA IN PUGLIA
By John Mariani




 

         Andria is the fourth-largest city in Italy’s Puglia province, only six miles from the Adriatic coast, and quite a sophisticated city it is, though largely unknown to foreign tourists who are more likely to visit Bari, Alberobello and Lecce. Walking down the broad, tree-lined Corso Cavour at twilight is to experience the passagiata of locals strolling arm in arm, nodding to everyone, looking in the boutique windows, getting café or pizza or gelato along the way.

         Andria shares the same history of being ravaged or taken over or gifted by everyone from the Byzantines to the Fascists, but since the war it has evolved into a major Italian city, rich in wines and agriculture.

Like much smaller towns, Andria is crammed with churches of various interest, including Sant’Agostino built by the Teutonic Knights and San Nicola di Myra, built over grottoes. There’s a Ducal Palace, and fifteen miles outside of town is a UNESCO World Heritage site worth a trip––the 13th century octagonal Castel del Monte (left). Beyond its municipality lies the Alta Murgia National Park spread over 67,000 miles and populated by wild horses and eagles.

         Both hotels and modern B&Bs are remarkably inexpensive, so that even the fine, glass and steel  Cristal Palace Hotel, with a sports center, heated pool and gym, flower garden and lawn is currently charging only $107 per night.

Most of the restaurants and trattorias in Andria serve traditional Puglian food––orrecchiete with broccoli di rabe, fava beans and chicory, spaghetti all’assassina cooked in red wine––but there are also some very contemporary restaurants prized for their innovation, including Restrosena (Via Ettore Carafa 12; right), which serves a tartare of pheasant with figs cooked in red wine, cardoons and black pepper; “French toast” with a sashimi of salmon, avocado and cream cheese; and pacchero pasta with tiny squid, anchovies, broccoli and ricotta. It also has a very extensive wine list, with many Puglian bottlings.

Despite its homey name, MaMà (Corso Cavour 27) is a minimalist restaurant  (below) that sets an enticingly modern menu of dishes like rice with almonds and scampi and spaghetti with sea urchins.

         But  I was quite amazed when my wife and I read about and saw the menu at Il Turaciollo (Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, 4; below), where the owners, Elena Fucci and chef  Luciano Matera, have for 20 years been on the front line of innovation. Luciano bounds from table to table exuberantly telling you about the menu, the specials and the wines––300 very decently priced labels at the lively  wine bar at the front, overseen by Elena. 

         Despite its age, the restaurant itself  looks brand new and scrubbed, with  arches, half-stone walls, tile floors and wooden tables  set with individual lamps.  Luciano promises a “touch of creativity in every dish,” and he fulfilled that promise for us starting off with puffy, warm focaccia and a series of crostini––small dishes set on crusts of bread––one, with anchovies, small balls of mozzarella and tomatoes, the other of fried zucchini chips and red peppers.   Next was pork that had been caramelized  and cooked wine and dusted with herbs, along with a capocollo, the collar meat of a black pig.


    Desserts were as delicious as they were pretty, including a rich cannoli cake and a semifreddo with chocolate  and hazelnuts. Our bill, including a 35€ Puglian wine, came to 103€, including tax and service.

         On our trip we had been meandering north from Lecce along the coast and Andria seemed like a reasonable overnight stop. But it proved  much more than that for its beauty and a culture built on centuries of conflict that have now coalesced into one of the loveliest cities in Puglia. After our meal, we, too, were strolling arm in arm,  nodding and smiling at the younger Adrians still enjoying the warm evening on the broad Corso Cavour.

 

 

 

        

 

 

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NEW YORK CORNER



CARLOTTO

100 East 19th Street

212-209-1054

 

By John Mariani



 

    It seems as useless to complain about yet another Italian restaurant opening in New York as it would about a new seafood restaurant opening in Venice or a sushi bar in Kyoto. For although the increase in exciting Indian, Thai, Mexican and Korean opening weekly in New York’s five boroughs is applaudable, if a  place is good, it’s good, and no amount of sniffing at one serving yet another version of cacio e pepe––now challenged by penne all’arrabiata––has stopped anyone from opening yet another Italian place, whether a trattoria or a ristorante from debuting in any part of town.

         One of the most enticing new entries is Carlotto, opened in Union Square  by Vancouver’s Toptable Group (which also runs nearby Oceans on Park Avenue), a high-ceiling, long room with an excellent bar up front with a decor by David Rockwell that has  both the rusticity of brick walls and tile floors with the shadowy lighting of a trattoria set in a winery’s cave.  The noise level is high but not too bad on weeknights.  The service staff really clicks in knowledge and acumen required at a fast pace.

Chef Andy Kitko,  Connecticut born, is not tied to an all-Italian menu, bringing in ideas from the whole Mediterranean and even the Pacific, gleaned from experience that began at the Ritz in San Francisco and then  New York’s French bistro Café Boulud and the Greek seafood spot, Estiatorio Milos.

There’s a good three-course prix fixe dinner at $65    (one app; pasta or secondo; dessert) and a selection of Italian salamis.

We were quickly be brought some light, airy focaccia, though one slice was warm, the other cold.

The antipasti number nine dishes, including a terrific slow-roasted lamb  presse” with a salsa verde, pickled chanterelles and crunchy walnuts. Grilled octopus has a side of corona beans, hot and spicy ‘nduja sausage and a drizzle of basil oil.

The housemade pastas deserve high praise for their texture, thickness and flavor all on their own, so that the pleasure of pappardelle is increased  by a wild boar ragù (right), and agnolotti contain sweet corn with crispy prosciutto and dash of chili oil. The lasagne  (left) is enough to feed four people as a primi course, layers stacked high and oozing with cheese, ragù and parmigiano, I would have ordered spaghetti ù but the clams come out of the shell, which was a real disappointment. A very  creamy risotto was full of flavor, but its texture was mushy (right).

The capability of so many chefs these days to roast a good chicken is evident in Kitko’s succulent, crispy rendering, while the short ribs stracotto cooked in Monteplulciano wine with crushed potatoes and asparagus is an impressive  triumph of many flavors. Carlotto’s veal chop parmesan (a dish now ubiquitous and, happily,  back in fashion) starts with a one-pound veal chop pounded to spread over the plate, sauced with tomato and fresh mozzarella.

The hazelnut croccante with praline and candied cherries has a Nutella-like mousse, and the dish called affogato made of vanilla ice cream,  orange-almond biscotti and candied hazelnuts on which is poured hot espresso is always good to see on a menu.

The bartenders know precisely what they are doing, both with classic drinks and signatures, though prices above $22 is a bit wince induing. There’s little one could possibly ask for that isn’t on the wine list.

So here we have another upscale Italian restaurants, civilized and full of good cheer and fine cuisine. If there are more like Carlotto on the horizon––and there will be––I, for one, couldn’t be happier.

 


Open daily for dinner.

 






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HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
 
By  John Mariani


 



CHAPTER ONE

“I’ve done my best, in regard to people and to life, without precepts, but with a taste for justice.” ― Coco Chanel


    Katie Cavuto could not help smiling at the perfection of her breakfast. French press coffee in a pretty porcelain cup. A warm croissant with a crisp, shattering golden crust and soft, airy, butter-rich interior. Intensely flavorful raspberry preserves and bittersweet marmalade. A small bunch of yellow flowers in a blue vase set on a blue-and-white check tablecloth. A large starched linen napkin and a carafe of water.
         The black-vested waiter had been cheerful and had shown her to a table with wicker chairs just inside a hedge of the Hôtel Fouquet’s terrace just off the Champs Élysées, within site of the Arc de Triomphe. It was a warm spring day, with the trees budding, and the traffic of tourists had not yet begun. In another hour the avenue would be a crush of cars and taxis, the stores would be open and the shoppers would be out in such numbers as to block a clear view of the street. But by then Katie would be gone, assuming her friend David Greco showed up soon.
         “Sorry, Katie, I overslept,” came a voice from her left. “Damn jetlag had me awake until four o’clock.”
         David Greco had known Katie for several years, both as an assistant and friend, and even though he was twenty years older, at fifty-five, he’d had a long crush on her that he increasingly felt awkward about.  They had met after David retired from the New York City Police Department where he’d been a top detective, moving up to a house and land on the Hudson River not far from West Point. Katie was an investigative reporters for the magazine McClure’s, and she had convinced David to come out of retirement to help her on a story that needed his  detective skills, trying to find out what had happened to gold bullion that gangster Al Capone had stolen from the Federal Reserve back in the 1930s.
         The story that came out of that made Katie’s reputation and led to other investigations for which David’s expertise was invaluable, which included once saving her life, as she had once saved his. So, the bond was very strong between the two Americans now in Paris, where Katie had chosen to take her spring vacation. Since she only knew one person in Paris and because she enjoyed traveling to far-off cities for work with David—they’d been everywhere from Moscow to Hong Kong, London to Vienna, and more—she knew he’d be a good companion whose last two-day trip to Paris had been twenty years before on a case that involved the French Police. Also, Katie’s on-and-again,-off-again lawyer boyfriend was stuck on a case involving corporate malfeasance that would keep him in Boston at least until Memorial Day. 
        
“I slept pretty well,” said Katie, who was of Italian-American background, still lived in the Bronx and had gone from being a very pretty, very good student at Fordham University to become a very attractive top reporter in her field.
“I dropped off around midnight and slept through till six,” she said. “I’ve been here eating way too many croissants, and this strong French coffee helps a lot.”
         David said, “I wonder if I can get some eggs and orange juice,” hailing the waiter and asking Katie, “Do I say ‘garcon’?” knowing that she spoke French, maybe with a slight Bronx accent.
         “Don’t worry, he speaks English.”
         David ordered, spread a croissant with marmalade, took a bite and shook his head. “Jesus! This is one of the best things I ever tasted. How do they make it so. . .  buttery?”
         “They put in a ton of butter.”
         Katie was dressed in bluejeans, a royal blue v-neck sweater and flowered scarf tied in a European knot. David wore jeans, an open-neck shirt and a blue blazer that had plenty of miles on it. Katie thought she might coax him into buying a new jacket there in Paris. 
        
The eggs and orange juice came, and David again expressed his astonishment at the rich color and flavor of the scrambled eggs.
         “Don’t tell me,” he said. “They put in a ton of butter.”
         Katie smiled, nodded then said, “So, David, where would you like to go today? Our first day here I think we should maybe just walk around, then tomorrow start some heavy-duty sightseeing. I pre-ordered tickets for the Louvre this week, and we could go out to Versailles this weekend. Sound good?”
         “Hey, you’re the tour guide. Whatever’s good for you.”
      Katie had spent a college semester abroad in Paris, having learned to speak French while a child at the Villa Maria Academy in the Bronx, whose nuns were of the French Notre Dame order. Now her French was rusty but good enough to deal with waiters, concierges, storekeepers and museum workers, most of whom spoke English to one degree or another. She was, though, surprised that so many Parisians didn’t seem to speak more than a few words of English as of this, the spring of 2002
         David, who was also born in the Bronx, though in a rougher neighborhood than Katie’s, was embarrassed not to speak any other language, not even any Italian picked up from his parents, and had only picked up a smattering of Puerto Rican Spanish from his early days on the police force. But he could think of nothing more enjoyable than to be with Katie and have her lead him around by the nose, wherever she wanted to go.
         Katie took a city map out of her bag, when suddenly one, then two, police cars’ piercing two-note sirens could be heard blaring from the boulevard, followed by fire trucks and ambulances. Then, from the opposite direction, down from the Arc de Triomphe, came another flotilla of rescue vehicles.  The ones headed towards the arch turned off to the right onto the Boulevard Haussmann, the others heading towards the Place de la Concorde stopping on the Rue de Rivoli. In the distance more sirens could be heard from another direction.      
        
Everyone on the terrace got up to see what was going on, and traffic and pedestrians stopped all movement. Katie asked the waiter what it might be, but he just shrugged and said, “I don’t know, Madame, but it sounds serious.”
         Almost immediately police were on every visible corner, stopping traffic or diverting it. “I wonder if there’s anything on the local news,” said Katie. “Well, we’ll hear when we get back to the hotel. You need anything from the hotel now?” David said no, finished his breakfast and Katie asked for the check. They then walked up towards the Arc, about three blocks away, but when they reached Boulevard Haussmann, which was one of the spokes leading from the Arch’s Place Charles de Gaulle.   
    Katie looked at David and without saying anything headed for the spot where all the police cars, fire engines, white emergency vehicles and red  ambulances were parked, their lights blazing.






©
John Mariani, 2024




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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR



By John Mariani




 






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HE CAME UP WITH THE IDEA
AFTER CLOSING THE PYONG-YANG
ZOO WHEN THE CLAM DIED

Affable North Korean dictator Kim Jong-un has opened a sea cucumber farm to tourists.














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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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