Robert Shaw, Richard Dreyfuss and Roy
Schneider having dinner onboard in "Jaws" (1975)
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THIS WEEK
ARE WHITE TABLECLOTHS
RETURNING
TO NEW YORK RESTAURANTS? By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER
TAMARIND
By John Mariani
HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
CHAPTER TWO
By John Mariani
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR By John Mariani
❖❖❖
By John
Mariani
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
TAMARIND
By John Mariani
❖❖❖
HÔTEL
ALLEMAGNE By John
Mariani
CHAPTER TWO
There were
no smoke or fire engine ladders being extended.
But the emergency medical
teams, known as SAMU, were scrambling with
stretchers to get into a large Beaux
Arts building with a blue canopy reading Hôtel
de la Reine. A crowd had
gathered that included a largenumber
of
hotel staff in blue or black suits or maid’s
light gray uniforms. A few people
who appeared to be guests looking like they’d
just been through a traumatic
experience were being led out to the ambulances.
So were some of the hotel
staff members. All the emergency personnel were
wearing medical masks. Katie
went up to one of the policemen and in French
asked what was going on. The man
replied that apparently many people were very sick
in the hotel and had to be
removed to hospitals. She asked about the other
sirens she had heard. The
policeman said he believed they were going to
other hotels for the same reason.
Then he asked her to move behind a barrier his
colleagues had set up on the
street. “What’d
he
say?” asked David. Katie told him and said,
“That’s very weird. How do all
these people in three different hotels all of a
sudden get so sick they had to
call in all this assistance?” “I don’t
know,” said David, “but I hope to hell it’s not
some kind of bug that’s ripping
through all the hotels in Paris. Maybe we’d better
go back to ours and see
what’s going on there.” The two
Americans walked rapidly back to their hotel, the
Juliana on the Rue Cognac Jay. There was no
activity out front or in the lobby, so Katie went
to
the concierge and asked if he’d seen or heard
anything about what was going on. The
woman said, “I only hear just now on the TV,
Madame, that three hotels are
evacuating their guests because they have gotten
very sick.” “So,
everything in this hotel is fine?” asked David. “I hope
so, Monsieur. None of our guests have said they
are ill.” Katie
and David went up to her room and turned on the TV
to the France2 channel.
There was already live video on a screen split
three ways, showing the outside
of the hotels—the de la Reine, the Prince de
Carignon and the Anastasia, all
fairly close to the Arch. Katie translated what
she could, saying that police
and ambulances had responded to calls at all three
hotels as guests “en
masse” were waking up in a very sick state,
as if gripped by a debilitating
virus. The announcer had no numbers to report but
the patients seem to be in
the dozens at each hotel. An interviewer at the
Anastasia received no more detail
than Katie had heard from the policeman at the de
la Reine. The TV announcer
said that the Health Minister said he had no
reason to believe the incidents
had occurred anywhere else in Paris but, given the
quickness and severity of
the disease’s spread, those at the three hotels
seemed somehow related. He said
there was no reason for panic among the populace
but advised people to stay
outside buildings if possible until they had more
information. Katie
turned to David and said, “You feel safe, or
safer, going on with our walking
tour?” “Probably
better than staying inside a hotel for the time
being.” Then he went to his own
room to pick up a scarf,in
case he had to use it as a protective mask.
The two
Americans left their hotel and headed down the
Champs Élysées (right) towards Place de
la Concorde, with Katie seeing again all she’d
loved about Paris when she was a
college student living in a drab dorm at the
Sorbonne. She was delighted how
affected David seemed by the beauty of the city,
its broad boulevards, handsome
buildings and unexpected gardens, although he was
surprised how commercialized
the Champs Élysées itself was, even to a newcomer.
As they
approached Place de la Concorde they saw another
cluster of emergency vehicles,
this time, as mentioned on TV, outside of the
opulent Hôtel Anastasia. Katie
couldn’t resist asking an ambulance driver what
more he knew about the events
of the morning. He told her only what the TV
report had said, adding, “These
people became very, very sick very very, fast.
Whatever it is, it spread
through the hotels like a fire.” “Anyone
die?” “Not
yet, but we will have to see as the day goes on.” Katie
told David what the man had said and asked, “Do
you think it’s safe we stay in
Paris? This could be a virus that’s going to sweep
through the whole city.” “It
crossed my mind,” he said. “Thing is, I’m thinking
it’s not such a good idea to
go back to the hotel until we know something more
later on.” With
that degree of uncertainty, the elation the two
Americans had been enjoying
lessened considerably. They turned off the Rue
Rivoli at Rue Castiglione,
seeing in the distance the soaring marble column
in the center of Place Vendôme,
built by Napoleon to celebrate his victory at the
Battle of Austerlitz. The
Place itself was a square of townhouses called hôtels
particuliers,
dominated on one side by the Hôtel Ritz, founded
in 1898 by César Ritz and made
famous in the stories of American authors F. Scott
Fitzgerald and Ernest
Hemingway.During
the war, half the
rooms were occupied by German Luftwaffe officers,
including Herman Goering, the
other half left open to foreign visitors, because
Ritz was Swiss and
Switzerland was neutral during the war. “Isn’t
that the hotel where Princess Diana was staying
with her Arab boyfriend the day
she was killed in the car crash?” asked David. “Uh-huh.
The guy was Dodi Al-Fayed, son of the Ritz’s
owner.” “Rotten
thing to happen.” “Did you
ever see the fifties movie named Love in the
Afternoon, where Gary
Cooper and Audrey Hepburn have an affair in the
Ritz? She was like nineteen
years old, and he was a lot older.” “Oh
yeah,” said David, who was as much a fan of old
movies as was Katie. “What I
remember is he had a routine of inviting young
girls up to his room and had a
couple of guys playing violins during dinner, then
they’d leave and come back
the next time. I also remember Cooper’s character
giving out these big French
bills as tips to all the staff as he left the
front door to get into his limo.” “It was
pretty romantic when I saw it a few years ago,”
said Katie, “though now it’s a
little creepy to see this older guy seducing all
these young women.” As soon as
she said it, Katie realized David might take her
remark the wrong way. David
only said, “I dunno, that’s what rich old guys do.
And I guess they got away
with it in French hotels back then. Probably still
do.” Katie
shifted the subject, saying, “I’m surprised all
the buildings in the square
don’t look like they’ve ever cleaned the facades.
They’re all dingy and gray.” “Hey,
what you want for—what do they charge at The Ritz,
like $300 a night?” “I
suspect it’s a lot more than that. You want to go
inside and look around?”
ATTENTION PASSENGERS:
PLEASE PUT ON YOUR
OXYGEN MASKS FOR THE NEXT 30 MINUTES
Most airlines
do not serve baked beans on flights, especially
after a Middle Eastern airline that served an
authentic breakfast of foul medames (stewed
fava beans) at the start of its
eight-hour flights to London soon realised this was
not an experiment to be
repeated.
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.