Rudy Vallée and Claudette Colbert in
"Palm Beach Story" (1942)
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ANNOUNCEMENT: Mariani's
Virtual Gourmet will not be published next
week because Mariani will be in Croatia on
research as to where to stay, eat and drink. The
next issue will be April 13. However, for those
engrossed with my novel Hôtel Allemagne,
I've included two chapters this week to tide you
over till my return.
❖❖❖
THIS WEEK
With 200% Tariffs Looming,
Buy Champagne Before April 1st.
By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER
CAFÉ CARMELLINI
By John Mariani
HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
CHAPTERS FOUR and FIVE
By John Mariani
NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
WINES FOR PASSOVER By Geoff Kalish
❖❖❖
Buy ‘em By The Case. With
200% Tariffs Looming Over Champagne, You Still
Have Time To Purchase Those Bottles
Already In U.S. Wine Stores
By John Mariani
Marilyn Monroe and Tom Ewell in "The
Seven Year Itch" (1955)
With the threat of 200%
tariffs––currently 25%––being put on European
wines and spirits as of April 1, the horror of
not being able to afford a bottle of Champagne
for even a celebration, much less an entire
wedding, may soon be upon us. Consider that a
bottle of $50 Champagne may soon cost $200
after tariffs go into effect April 1. Even
those who think nothing of now spending $300
for a Prestige Cuvée may not can shrug off
price increases of 200%.
The same goes for other European sparkling
wines, including France’ s Crémants, Italy’s
Proseccos and Spain’s Cavas.
Europe currently exports more than $4.89 billion
worth of wine each year to the US, by far its
largest export market, according to the Comités
Européens d’Enterprises Vins, which is composed
of 25
national organizations that account for over 90%
of European wine exports. This is
also true of Champagne exports to the U.S, with
27 million bottlesshipped in 2023 with a value of $885
million.
I know that producers, exporters, importers,
distributors and wine store owners are
scrambling to figure at how to handle this
unprecedented situation.David Levasseur, a
third-generation wine grower and owner of a
Champagne house, told the Associated Press,
“It means I’m in trouble, big trouble. We hope
it’s just, as we say, blah blah.”
Not likely: President Donald Trump contends
that it is a reaction to
the EU's "nasty" tariff on US whiskey, calling
the bloc "hostile and abusive" and "formed for
the sole purpose of taking advantage of the
United States."
But at least for the next few weeks, the stocks
of Champagnes already imported and on shelves in
the U.S. are reason to consider buying as many
bottles as you can before the prices go through
the roof. Moreover, there are so many reasonable
priced, very good Champagnes already in U.S.
wineshops that snapping them up right now makes
sense.And
if you check a website like Wine.Searcher.com
you’ll find prices may differ by $10 a bottle.
Buying by the case lowers the price
considerably. Here are some worth seeking out.
Nicolas Feuillatte
Réserve Extra Brut($45).
This is a balanced blend made by cellar master
Guillaume Rofflaen with 40%
Pinot Noir, 40% Meunier and 20% Chardonnay,
aged three to four years and bottled in their
distinctive royal blue label. They also make a
Rosé with more Pinot Noir. The price is
amazing for this quality.
Veuve
Clicquot Ponsardin Vintage Brut. The price
for this is around $100, but the same producer’s
Yellow Label is selling for half that price and
manifeststhe
label’s signature styleof
ripe fruit and toastiness. It’s a blend of 55%
Pinot Noir 15% Pinot Meunier and 30% Chardonnay,
aged three years.
Laurent-Perrier
La Cuvée Brut
($$50-60). A very good price for an excellent
Champagne, made of reserve wines including 50%
Chardonnay, 30 to 35% Pinot Noir and 10 to 15%
of Meunier, aged for four years. It has a
delicate bouquet, but the citrus notes and
velvety texture give it a long palate.
Deutz
Brut Classic($50).Deutz, a grande marque founded in 1838 in
Ay and now owned by Maison Louis Roederer,has a
lot of ardent fans who know it as a delicious
sparkler without a high price, made of equal
parts Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.
Gosset
Grande Réserve Brut ($50).
Although non-vintage, this is actually a blend
of seven different vintages to add complexity
and pleasing acidity. The Revue de France
voted Gossett number four on a list of the 50
top Champagne producers. Its elegantly shaped
bottle immediately identifies the marque. Odilon
de Varine, head winemaker and new cellar master
Gabrielle Malagu are keeping the marque’s
tradition alive–– their motto is, “At
Gosset we first create a wine. The bubbles make
it sublime”–– while applying the best ideas
of modern enology.
❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
CAFÉ
CARMELLINI
250 Fifth
Avenue
212-231-9200
By John Mariani
Yet again, in the
face of those who say, “Nobody wants to eat this
way anymore,” a great chef has thrown his hat into
the high-stakes arena of Manhattan’s gastroscape.
Café Carmellini is in a stunning space,
previously the site of the Gilded Age mansion,
then of a five-story Renaissance palazzo designed
by McKim, Mead & White, and it is
now The Fifth Avenue Hotel. Thus, the ceilings
soar above the dining room, hung withhuge
chandeliers of bronze and seeded glass and
centered by two huge sculptural trees amidst
polished wood and beveled mirror panels. It is all
quite dramatic, with blue banquettes and balcony
seating, a bright open kitchen and timber bar.The
lighting is sufficient for patrons to take it all
in, and the sound level, despite the size of the
room, has been successfully brought down to a
civilized level. Andrew Carmellini has
experience in an array of illustrious restaurants,
including L’Arpège in Paris, San Domenico in Imola
and in New York, Lespinasse, Le Cirque
and Café Boulud. In 2006 he opened his
own A Voce in Madison Square Park, then, three
years later, with investor Robert DeNiro, Locanda
Verde at the Greenwich Hotel. With the NoHo
Hospitality Group, he opened The Dutch, and in
2013the
brasserie Lafayette Café, then branched out to
Brooklyn’s William Vale Hotel and Carne Mare at
New York’s Seaport. And that’s not a complete
list. In the fall or 2023 he opened his latest,
Café Carmellini, which hardly looks anything like
a café but pays homage to his Tuscan family’s
coffee importing business.
Carmellini is one of those rare
chefs who, without keeping his finger in every
pot, has for the most part maintained his empire
with credibility and consistency. Right now he is
paying most of his attention to Café Carmellini. The wine list immediately became one of New
York’s largest and best selected, with 1,800
labels and 9,000 bottles under the supervision of
Master Sommelier Josh Nadel and Robin Wright, with
four other sommeliers on staff. There are 18 winesby the
glass, and while you can spend up to $10,000 for a
bottle, you will also find several under $100. Cocktails are all
$22.
The menu, under Executive Chef Kyle Goldstein, is
of an ideal size to tempt you without overwhelming
your ability to do so. (They also serve breakfast,
lunch and brunch.) Some dishes will be familiar to
Carmellini regulars, but now a bit refined here.
Our table of four chose from all over the menu,
which begins with oysters, crudo and
carpaccio, then moves to six appetizers, which
include the first of the season’s sweet white
asparagus in a pink swirl of orange-juice tinged
sauce Maltaise.The last of the season’s bay scallops
hadn’t the sweetness they might have had earlier
but they floated in an aromatic coconut and
lemongrass sauce that echoed Carmellini’s friend,
the late Floyd Cardoz. Crabmeat is set between
millefeuille wafers and upon a brilliant
coral-colored pepper sauce.
Only three pastas are
offered, including a different risotto each
evening, and pray they are serving the sumptuous
lobster risotto (left) with claw and body
meat along with a tomato-pepper sauce. Caramelle
Piemontese are tubes of pastashaped
like wrapped candy, with wild mushrooms, luscious
and lavishly sauced. Duck-Duck-Duck
Tortelliniare
fat packets filled with duck meat and a deep, dark
duck and foie gras sauce and brandied foam.
Among the main courses I most enjoyed the rabbit alla
cacciatore, with nice fat rounds of rabbit
braised with olives, celery and peppers. Black
bass comes in a fine seafood broth, but halibut’s
blandness did not gain much from its Riesling
sauce or choucroute of vegetables.
Pastry chef Jeffrey Wurtz, previously with Alain
Ducasse, makes some relatively light sweets like
olive oil cake; Sorrento lemon coffee “Livornese”’
granita and crema; pistachio
gelato and
cherry grapefruit sorbetto. Richer are
a wonderful passion
fruit chiboust with coconut sorbet, and
my favorite, the sticky toffee pudding soaked
through with flamed aged rum. For such a large operation everything
clicks together at Café Carmellini to provide an
elegant but not in the least stuffy atmosphere
buoyed by a delightful wait staff who maintain the
same level of American courtesy.
And for all this––while
Café Carmellini is expensive, with appetizers
$25-$42, pastas $34-$36 and main courses $47 to
$72––ordering à la carte provides some relief, and
they compare to similar fine restaurants of its
kind, like The Modern, Le Pavillon, Essentialby
Christophe and L’Abeille.New
York
continues to welcome such restaurants in
abundance, and Café Carmellini is already among
the best.
Open
for dinner Tues.-Sat.
❖❖❖
HÔTEL
ALLEMAGNE By John
Mariani
CHAPTER FOUR
Katie did meet David at five o’clock
and told him about the call from Alan, and
David said he would of course stick around and
help Katie any way he could. With all thought
of going back to New York put aside, they
stayed in the hotel for dinner and made plans
for their investigation. “Alan said he had some journalist
contacts in Paris whose work he’s published,”
said Katie, “so I guess I’ll be on the phone
tomorrow morning. He’s sending me their contact
numbers. Do you know any Paris police?” Katie
never
ceased to be amazed that David seemed to have
contacts everywhere. After thirty years with
NYPD investigating mob connections
internationally, he’d worked with members of the
FBI, CIA, Interpol and several national police
departments on various aspects of various cases.
“Matter of fact, I do,” he said. “Just
before I retired one of my last cases involved
the Corsican Mafia, which is also called the
French Mob. They were the gangsters involved in
The French Connection movie, with Gene
Hackman. They had links with the New York Mafia,
and back in the fifties had protection from
prosecution from our own feds because they
helped disrupt communist union activities in
Marseilles and other French cities. Scummy as
all the rest, of course.” “How’d you get involved?” “Like I said, they had links with the New
York mobs, mostly drug trafficking.” “Like in the movie. I always remember
that scene where Gene Hackman’s freezing his ass
off drinking coffee outside on the street while
keeping his eye on the French gangster eating
French food inside a fancy East Side restaurant
named Copain" (right). “Right. That guy never was caught.
Anyway, we were trying to figure out where and
when the drug shipments were coming in from, and
it was natural I’d speak with my opposite in the
French police. Guy by the name of Michel Borel,
who was fearless and knew how to bend the rules.
I spoke to him before leaving New York, said we
should get together for lunch. I’ll give him a
call, that is, if you help me get through the
French switchboard. I don’t know if he knows
anything about this hotel business, if he thinks
there’s any criminal angle.” “What do you think?” asked Katie. “It all seems way too coincidental. Three
luxury hotels, all hit on the same night with
the same virus? Doesn’t make sense to me.” “Me neither, which is probably what Alan
thinks, too. I was just wondering if maybe all
three hotels buy their food supplies, maybe
their bread or vegetables, from the same source.
One bad batch could unleash a virus or bacterial
infection.” “Sounds like a stretch, but maybe you
should look into that first. What else are you
planning for tomorrow?” “Like I said, I’ll make some calls to
colleagues here. See what they might know or who
might know something that hasn’t been reported.” “Do you know anyone at the French TV
station?” “No, but I do have a contact at CNN
International with a woman I used to work with
when she was a print journalist back in the
States. CNN is based in London over here, but
she works out of her home as the Paris
correspondent.” “Okay, then,” said David, who took a last
sip of his wine and went silent. “What?” asked Katie. “It’s just that, last time I was in
Paris, I never got to use the subway—what do
they called it, the Métro?—because Michel drove
me around. I guess I could just take taxis.” Katie shook
her head. “No, you’ve got to learn to use
the Métro in Paris. Easiest way to travel
because of traffic, just like in New York. Here,
let me show you.” She took out one of the icons of Parisian
culture, the Métro map with its multi-colored
lines and dots resembling a complex painting by
Mondrian. “Now, look, it’s pretty easy. First you
decide where you want to get to, then find the
Métro stop on the map. The train lines are color
coded, so you find where you want to go, which
may take a change of lines, and see which
direction you’re going. Follow that colored line
to its terminal stop and get on that line,
getting off when it reaches your stop in
between.” Katie showed David some sample routes
until he got used to it. “And get a carnet,” she said.
“I’ll buy it for you tomorrow.” “What’s a carnet?” “It’s a ten-trip ticket, which saves some
money.” David shook his head, whistled and said,
“Well, if we made it around on the Moscow subway
systems, I guess I can master this one.” “The people who work in the Métro usually
speak some English. So do most of the cops.
You’ll be fine.” “So, bright and early tomorrow? Say, 7:30
for breakfast?” “Oui, monsieur.” “That I get.”
David slept better that
night and Katie felt very refreshed the next
morning. The French TV station’s update on the
hotels had not advanced much from the night
before except to say there were still no
reported deaths among the victims and that the
police were looking into foul play. The
announcer also reported that, despite the
hotels’ refusal to comment on guests’ names,
several very prominent foreigners were among
them, including quite a few Americans, noting
that all the hotels had long been favored by
politicians from other countries. CNN
International’s coverage was minimal—Katie’s
friend did not appear on air—and the International
Herald Tribune was, as usual, always a day
behind.
Katie and
David had a quick continental breakfast of rolls
and coffee in the hotel and were out the door by
eight. Their first stop was at a pharmacy on the
same block where they bought a box of paper face
masks, just in case. The saleswoman said she
expected to be sold out by noontime.
The Métro stop was at the end
of the block, and the Americans descended the
stairs and bought carnets at the
automatic ticket dispenser. Katie took David
over to the wall map of the Métro lines and told
him to plot his route, which he did with one
finger. “I practiced when I got back to room.” The Paris Police Prefecture was located
at Place Louis Lépine at the Cité Métro stop.
Rather than have Katie call the desk that
morning, David had e-mailed Michel Borel the
night before and had an answer by seven in the
morning, saying he’d be happy to meet David at
the Prefecture at 8:30. Katie has already spoken
to her CNN contact, whose name was Catherine
Newcombe, a woman about Katie’s age who had now
been in Paris for five years. David walked to the Prefecture, done in a
stately French Baroque style dating to the 18th
Century, and identified himself to the guard in
a white guard station who called Detective Borel
and ushered David through a metal detector.
Coming towards him was Borel, who was somewhat
younger than his American colleague, tall, a
little disheveled looking, with his necktie
swinging below his plainclothes collar. “Davide!”
he called, pronouncing his friend’s name in the
French way. “So good to hear from you, mon
ami!” They exchanged greetings, looked each
other up and down, made a comment on their both
looking pretty fit for men their age then
repaired to Borel’s office, which looked exactly
as David remembered it, same furniture, same
lighting, sterile, except for some finely
wrought period crown molding around the ceiling. “So, they finally gave you a new
computer,” said David. “Finally is right. The old one had to
explode before I could request a new one, and
that took four weeks.” “Same old bureaucracy, Paris, New York,
everywhere when it comes to cops’ equipment.” “Oui, and you know the bad guys
all have the latest, most powerful shit on the
market. Makes life interesting, though, eh?” With the small talk out of the way David
said, “So what’s going on with this hotel
disaster, Michel?” The French detective shook his head and
said, “Nothing at all to go on so far. Sick
hotels are a bit out of my line of work, you
know?––unless there’s some connection to the
Mafia or drug trade. Nothing on that score yet.” “Any idea who would want to attack these
hotels with bugs? Anything about the hotels that
are related?” “Not much I can think of. They are all
very old buildings, once own by wealthy families
and converted into hotels before the war. They
were aiming for a luxury market, and during the
war they were all taken over by the German
officers. After the war they enjoyed a boom that
goes up and down with the world economy, since
all hotels here depend on foreign travelers.” “Anything about who owns them?” “Various people over the years, but at
the moment, like almost of the grandest hotels
in Paris, they are owned by Arabs, who also own
The Ritz, the Georges V, the Meurice and the
Plaza-Athenée (below). The Arabs poured
money into Paris starting in the 1990s and
owning these prestige properties is, what do you
call it, a feather in their cap? They buy them
as trophies, shut them down, pour millions of
euros into them and re-open. And they expect
their management to show a profit quickly.” “No Russians?” “Not any of the luxury hotels, non,”
said Borel. “The Russians spent millions on
luxury goods, cars, jewelry from Cartier,
Rolexes, Louis Vuitton, restaurants, but they
invested more of their money in London and the
South of France. They bought thousands of condos
in Monaco. They always paid too much and lost
value, and when this President Putin came into
office, they lost their billions, too.” “Okay,” said David, “and the three hotels
that were hit were not owned by the same Arab
family?” “Two are, one is another family, but you
know the Arab sheiks all seem to be related to
each other, so who knows?” “And they were all profitable?” “As far as anyone knows. The Arabs don’t
report such things. They pay their taxes on time
and keep to themselves.” “And how do the French take the idea of
Arabs owning these historic hotels?” “Good question, David. The French are
very patriotic until it comes to money. They
accepted the Germans when they marched into
Paris—not that they had a choice—worked with
them, then when the war was over, everyone
claimed to have been a part of the patriotic
French underground. The French will tolerate
anything if it does not disturb their self-image
as being the most civilized people on earth, so
if the Russians or the Japanese, and now the
Chinese, want to buy up all the Louis Vuitton
bags, the store pretends to put a quota on their
sale to foreigners. If the Arabs buy up our
hotels, as long as they don’t start changing the
name and décor and putting up tents in the
gardens, we say laissez-faire and take
their money. Unfortunately, our own old families
no longer have the money to compete in buying
these hotels. The Taittinger Champagne family
still owns the Crillon, but the rumor is they
may sell to a Saudi named Prince Mutaib bin
Abdullah.”
David rubbed the back of his
neck and said, “So you don’t think this is an
attempt by some rich Frenchman, or maybe a
Russian or Chinese, to ruin these three hotels
in a way that they’d sell for
next-to-nothing?” “Mon ami, anything’s possible
when it comes to large fortunes. But doing it
through a virus? Tricky and very risky.” “Well,” said David, “there was a
case—though it wasn’t a criminal
case—with a hotel in Philadelphia that was put
out of commission by what they called the
‘Legionnaires’ Disease.’” Borel looked puzzled. “You mean, the
French Foreign Legionnaires?” “No, they called it that because back
in the seventies a convention of American
Legion members was staying at the
Bellevue Hotel (right) and a couple
hundred of them contracted this bacterial
pneumonia and a few dozen died. They said it
spread through the hotel’s water system, and
they never developed a vaccine, so no one in
their right minds wanted to stay there and the
hotel had to close, for years, before somebody
bought it and gutted the place.” “But there was never a crime
committed?” “Not that anybody could find.” “Well, it crossed my mind that this
could be an Israeli terrorist attack using a
chemical weapon,” said Borel. “Embarrass the
Arabs. And the radical Israelis have never
trusted the French.” “But what, except publicity, would they
get out of it?” asked David. Borel put his hands in the air. “I
don’t know. Kill some Arabs perhaps. It is
just conjecture on my part.” “So, you don’t see any mob
participation in this?” “You never know, do you, David? But
right now, non.” “No big drug deals at the hotel? Maybe
the Arabs refused to work with the Mafia?” “Very, very unlikely. The Mafia leaves
the Arabs alone because they pay off very
well.” They spoke for a few minutes more, but
David knew Borel had given him whatever
information he had. “So, we still on for lunch?” he asked. “Of course! One o’clock, around the
corner, a little bistro called Chez Marie
Borel.” “Friend of yours?” “My wife. Best cook in Paris, you’ll
see.”
CHAPTER FIVE
Katie prepared
to meet with her colleague Catherine
Newcombe, (left) thinking of what
she should wear. She remembered Catherine had
always been very fashion conscious and
came from a wealthy New York family
who lived on Park Avenue. After
college she earned an MA in journalism
at Columbia University and had had a
successful career, first as a
freelancer, then doing well-read
political profiles at Vanity Fair
before moving to Paris to take the CNN
job. That meant she got to travel
a good deal to report in from wherever
she was sent if something newsworthy
was happening. When Katie and she got
together, they compared notes.
Katie assumed Catherine could afford
couture clothes, but she dressed in a far
more personalized style when not appearing
on CNN, where the dress code was to look
appropriate to the location being shot,
which meant she had safari shirts in various
colors. So, Katie stayed simple, in black
jeans, a cream-colored blouse and flowered
print scarf. Catherine lived in
the fashionably burgeoning Marais district (right),
where she had a loft-like apartment with
walls only for the bathroom. It was
decorated with large modern paintings, art
déco furniture and objets d’art she’d picked
up at the Paris Flea Market called Les
Puces. She was wearing jeans and a blue
turtleneck. At 35, Catherine seemed to get more
beautiful as she grew older, blonde as ever,
never gaining a pound. She greeted Katie in
French with kisses on the cheeks and said,
“Mind if we speak English? I think I need
the practice.” After reliving some old times, the
two journalists began to talk about the
hotel news. “So, CNN didn’t ask you to cover it
yesterday?” asked Katie. “No, they did, and I got some
interviews but I didn’t have a camera crew,
so I just filed whatever I found out and the
London bureau took it from there. I’m due to
go out with a crew this afternoon.” “So, what do you think is going on?” “I don’t really have a clue. If
there’s someone or some organization behind
it, it’s going to be tough to find a smoking
gun.” “Is there anything the three hotels
have in common?” Catherine
repeated
what Borel had told David, that they were
all Arab owned. “But who would want to
contaminate a hotel? Why not just set it on
fire or bomb it? Much more dramatic and
definitive. Then an organization like the
PLO could claim they’d done it. Yasser
Arafat (left) is no friend of the
Saudis. Neither is Osama bin Laden (right)
of Al-Qaeda, even though he is himself a
Saudi.” “What would they achieve?” asked
Katie. “Terrorist groups over here just like
to make their enemies know they’re able to
strike anywhere and anytime they want to.
Arafat and bin Laden are megalomaniacs who
probably don’t believe they’re ever going to
destroy Israel or the Emirates, but they
keep everybody on edge, chipping away at
these monolithic nations. The Emirati have
their heads in the sand, and the PLO is
hanging on by its nails.” “What about Iran?” “Could be, though they’ve been in a
pretty weak condition since the end of the
Iran-Iraq war. They’ve got nothing to gain
by ruining old hotels, even if they hate the
Saudis.” “But you think one of those
organizations would have used a bomb, not a
biological weapon? Iraq has such weapons,
Syria does, too. I don’t know about Iran.” “They all have them,” said Catherine,
bringing two cups of espresso to the dining
table. “Y’know, like Rumsfeld (left)
and Bush kept ranting, ‘Murdered their own
people with chemical weapons!’ even though
Rummy was a big supporter of the Iraqis
during the war with Iran. What do you
think is going on, Katie?” “Well,
what occurred to me was that those three
hotels might all very well buy their food
and produce from the same source, and that
something, the lettuce, the spinach,
whatever, was contaminated.” “Which means by a killer bacteria.” “Yes,
but then again it could be a virus, not
bacteria.” “Well, you know what else bothers
me?” said Catherine. “You know those horror
movies where these girls are in a house
being terrified by a caller on the phone
threatening to kill them all, and then one
of them says,”—Catherine made a face of
abject horror —‘But what if the calls are
coming from inside the house?’ Scary
as shit, right? So, what if the
contamination came from inside the
hotels?” “You mean from the bad vegetables?” “No, by
an employee, some nutcase, some disgruntled
staff member who had easy access to the
interior.” “All three?” “Yeah, that does make my theory
weaker, although the guy could have been the
florist who worked all three hotels, and
sometimes hotels share a bakery and send
their bread and rolls to the others.” “That makes a certain amount of
sense, but it would have to be someone very
familiar with the biological effects of
whatever he or she planted. Not to mention a
complete nut job.” “Paris has plenty of
them,” said Catherine. “Just spend a little
time in the Métro and you find them all over
the place. I mean, not as bad as on the New
York subways, but here they get a smarter
class of nut jobs.” “You know what this case needs?” said
Katie. “A first-rate infectious disease
scientist who can maybe provide us with some
clues. Know where we can find one?” “Are we working on this ‘case’
together, if there is a case?” “Of course not. You’re a daily
reporter and any story I might do won’t run
in the magazine for months from now.” “Oh, it’s not that I’d mind working
together,” said Catherine, “it’s just that
CNN International likes its stories short
and sweet and all tidy. We have, like, this
one-hour reel that keeps going throughout a
24-hour cycle, and a quarter of that is
financial news and another quarter sports.
And for some reason we have an entire show
called ‘Inside Africa.’ I’ll be lucky if I
get on air three times in the next week
unless a pandemic hits Paris, and then
they’ll send in big name reporters from
London. Meanwhile, I’m off to get video at
the three hotels this afternoon. Why don’t
you see if you can get in touch with an
expert scientist? Then we can fill each
other in on what we find.” “Sounds like a plan,” said Katie.
“Now, where do I find an expert scientist?
Any ideas?” Catherine said, “I guess I’d try the
Pasteur Institute. They’re supposed to be
one of the best in the world. They’re over
on the Rue du Dr. Roux near the Montparnasse
Métro station.” “Know anybody over there?” “I did a story last year I needed to
contact them for. I interviewed some smart
cookie. Let me get her name.” Catherine
went to her laptop and brought up the story. “Here it is. Her name was Dr. Judith
Baer, with the, uh. . . Center for Biology
of Viral Emerging Infections. Sounds just
like whom you’d want to speak to. She wasn’t
exactly Madame Warmth, but I got a couple of
sound bites out of her. Here’s her number.
Use my name, if she remembers me. She speaks
good English.”
“What did you interview
her about?”
“Something about how bad
the flu season was going to be last winter
in Europe. I don’t even know if it ran on
air.”
“Okay, thanks, I’ll see
if she’ll talk to me.”
“I’m off. Stick around
here if you like. Use that phone: It’s a
work number, so you won’t have to use up the
data on your iPhone.”
Catherine tied a scarf around her neck,
threw on a black blazer, said, “Ciao!,” and
left looking like she was on her way to have
her nails done.”
Katie called the Center and asked for Dr.
Baer, who took the call, listened silently
to what Katie had to say and replied, “I am
working till six o’clock tonight, and
tomorrow is Saturday, so the earliest we
could meet would be Monday before work at
eight in the morning.”
Katie
said that would be fine and upon
thanking the doctor, the phone
clicked off without any shared
goodbyes.
Based on a recent
series of tastings, the following top-flight wines
from various countries are highly recommended for
Passover. Again, according to Jewish
ritual law a wine labeled Kosher must meet certain
minimal standards, including: production by
sabbath-observant Jews; “fining” (clarification)
only with mineral compounds (not egg whites or
gelatin as usually used, because of the possibility
that it was derived from a non-kosher animal);
supervision of the entire process by a rabbi; and
certification by a recognized group. Moreover, since
Jews are forbidden during Passover. from eating
products containing “fermentable grains,” like bread
and pasta, care must be taken to avoid these from
wine that is labeled “kosher for Passover.” For
example, grapes usually hail from vineyards in which
no other crop is grown and the equipment used to
make the wine must be sterilized before production
takes place.
WHITES
2023 Yarden Sauvignon Blanc
($27)
Partially aged in barrels
for 2 months, this wine has a bouquet and taste of
ripe apples with hints of toast in its finish,
perfect to match bland as well as well-aged cheeses
and even matzah crackers topped with olive tapenade.
2023 Gilgal Sauvignon
Blanc ($20)
Ideal for those who are
fans of light-bodied wines, this dry white shows
hints of pears and pineapple in its finish. Try it
with chicken or baked salmon.
2023 Cantina Gabrielle
Pinot Grigio ($17)
Situated in northern Italy
along the Tyrrhenian Sea, this facility produces an
exceptional Pinot Grigio that’s loaded with tropical
fruit flavors and a crisp finish, perfect to
harmonize with noodle and potato kugels.
2023 Les Champ Des Cris
Sancerre ($27)
This wine was fashioned
from Sauvignon Blanc grapes grown in soil loaded
with small limestone rocks in France’s Loire Valley.
It shows a bouquet and dry taste of gooseberry and
lemon with a crisp finish, great for mating with
mild flavored fish, like halibut and cod.
REDS
2023 Barkan Classic Pinot Noir ($13)
This fruity wine with a
bouquet and taste of ripe plums and strawberries is
a bargain to mate with stuffed cabbage as well as
potato kugel.
2023 Bosquet Alavida
Malbec ($18)
Hailing from Argentina’s
Uco Valley, at the base of the country’s Andes
Mountains, this certified organic wine shows a
bouquet and taste of ripe plums and cherries and
mates harmoniously with brisket and potato kugel.
2023 Segal’s Fusion Red
($17)
Made like a “Right Bank”
Bordeaux wine, it contains 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc and is easy to
enjoy without further aging or decanting. It’s
berried flavor with a touch of spice mates well with
grilled beef and roast duckling.
2023 Covenant Mensch
Zinfandel ($25)
This wine was made from
grapes grown in Lodi County, California and shows a
fruity taste of ripe plums and strawberries with
hints of chocolate in its smooth, memorable finish.
Marry it with lamb chops, grilled duck breasts and
veal.
2022 Tzora Judean Hills
Red ($41)
Made from a blend of
premium grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah
and Petit Verdot) grown predominantly in limestone
soil, this wine was aged for 12 months in oak
barrels before bottling. It has deep flavors of ripe
plum, blackberry and a bit of cherry in its finish.
It mates well with most Passover main course items,
especially braised brisket of beef.
2021 Hermon Mt. Hermon
Indigo Red Wine ($15)
This easy-drinking red was
made from a blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon
grapes grown in Israel’s Golan Heights shows a
bouquet and taste of cassis and plums with notes of
butterscotch in its smooth finish.
❖❖❖
POEMS WE NEVER FINISHED READING
"Because I
Don't Know How
To Explain
Longing to Her;
I Teach My Daughter to
Name the
Peaches"
by Emily Louise Smith, Southern
Table
❖❖❖
Any of John Mariani's
books below may be ordered from amazon.com.
The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair.
“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was
completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its
message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw
“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight,
soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani
pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing.
Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James
Dalessandro, author of Bohemian
Heart and 1906.
“John Mariani’s Hound in
Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an
American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise
event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a
voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A
page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote
for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann
Pearlman, author of The
Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.
“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a
literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and
the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas
tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children,
read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly
recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling
author of Pinkerton’s War,
The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To
Woodbury.
“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an
animal. The Hound in
Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that
is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and
his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can
enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara
Royal, author of The
Royal Treatment.
Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but
let me proudly say that it is an extensive
revision of the 4th edition that appeared more
than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular
cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and
so much more, now included. Word origins have been
completely updated, as have per capita consumption
and production stats. Most important, for the
first time since publication in the 1980s, the
book includes more than 100 biographies of
Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat
and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to
Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.
"This book is amazing! It has entries for
everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more
than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and
drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.
"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.
Now in Paperback,
too--How Italian Food Conquered the
World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize from the
Gourmand
World Cookbook Awards. It is
a rollicking history of the food culture of
Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st
century by the entire world. From ancient Rome
to la dolce
vita of post-war Italy, from Italian
immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from
pizzerias to high-class ristoranti,
this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as
much about the world's changing tastes,
prejudices, and dietary fads as about
our obsessions with culinary fashion and
style.--John Mariani
"Eating Italian will
never be the same after reading
John Mariani's entertaining and
savory gastronomical history of
the cuisine of Italy and how it
won over appetites worldwide. . .
. This book is such a tasteful
narrative that it will literally
make you hungry for Italian food
and arouse your appetite for
gastronomical history."--Don
Oldenburg, USA Today.
"Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Mariani
admirably dishes out the story of
Italy’s remarkable global ascent
to virtual culinary
hegemony....Like a chef gladly
divulging a cherished family
recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the
secret sauce about how Italy’s
cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David
Lincoln Ross,
thedailybeast.com
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com.
"A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia.
"John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.