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THIS WEEK
Some of the Finest Seafood
in America NEW YORK CORNER CHEZ FIFI By John Mariani HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE CHAPTER EIGHT By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER American Spirits Producers in a Quandary over Trump's Tariffs By John Mariani ❖❖❖
Some of the Finest
Seafood in America
Last Month
New York Governor Kathy Hochul announced the
launch of the Long
Island
Seafood Trail website,
showing off the extraordinary array of seafood
that runs along the South Shore from Bay Shore
to Montauk (a North Shore guide is also
planned). The Trail was created by CCE of
Suffolk County’s Marine Program, in
collaboration with the New York State Department
of Agriculture and Markets (AGM), intended to
reinvigorate the state’s aquaculture and
wild-caught seafood industries and strengthen
local food systems and “to showcase our
outstanding small businesses, and attract more
visitors to this incredible region.”
There’s only one problem: The majority of
those species rarely if ever show up in New York
markets or restaurants. It is almost impossible
to find tautog, thresher, mackerel, weakfish and
most others on menus that list only the same
half dozen varieties, including so-called “Maine
lobster,” farm-raised salmon from the Pacific
Northwest, farm-raised branzino from the
Mediterranean and Dover sole from the North Sea.
The shrimp in the shrimp cocktail in all
likelihood comes in frozen from Thailand, while
the blue crabmeat is packed in Maryland and the
mahi mahi shipped in from Hawaii.
This neglect of such wonderful seafood
from Long Island, including swordfish caught
just off Montauk and bluefish that come roaring
through the Sound in season, is due not to a
lack of supply but to a lack of demand among
consumers.
Not surprisingly then, the restaurants
listed in the new Long Island guide follow suit,
with repetitive offerings and menus that barely
hint of the region’s bounty. The list of seafood
at Captain Jack’s in Southampton includes fried
calamari, crab-stuffed pretzels, fried flounder
sandwich, shrimp and grits and codfish
oreganata. Bell and Anchor in Sag Harbor serves
Montauk pearl oysters and lobster, but the fish
entrees are only pan-roasted Scottish salmon,
bouillabaisse and flounder. Even the Inlet
Seafood Restaurant in Montauk only offers local
fluke, golden tilefish and big-eye tuna on its
menu.
All these and the rest of the guide’s
recommended restaurants may well have seasonal
or nightly specials, but why don’t they sell and
serve the myriad species listed on the guide’s
website?
The paragon of East Coast seafood
restaurants is the Grand Central Oyster
Bar & restaurant, opened in 1913, whose
broadside-size menu is printed several days a
week depending on what’s available in the
market, with 25 different species of seafood any
day of the week, from all around the world.
Thus, at the moment the offerings include
Montauk big-eye tuna, clams from the Long Island
Sound, swordfish, mahi mahi, monkfish, sea bass
and more, though even those only hint at Long
Island’s wealth of seafood. I hope, then, that the
new Long Island Seafood Trail website will
awaken a local pride among restaurateurs and
markets to take full advantage of what’s in our
water. Otherwise, its list of seafood species is
a good reason to go out on a boat into the Sound
or along the South coast for the springtime
migration of striped bass, black bass, bluefish,
porgy, weakfish, scup, hickory shad and tautog
all ready to bite. ###
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NEW YORK CORNER CHEZ FIFI
140 East 74th Street
No telephone number By John Mariani ![]()
New
York’s current bistro boom was joined in January
by a place that has, for reasons not entirely
clear, turned into one of the biggest hits of
the year. It’s
easy enough to understand why the new bistros Le
Veau d’Or, Frenchette and Le Rock are so
extremely popular––the owners, Riad Nasr and Lee
Hanson, are the darlings of the food media and
fashionistas––but Chez Fifi hasn’t that kind of
pedigree: It is the latest production of the
Miami-based We All Gotta Eat Group that runs
nearby Sushi No, which, with 12 seats, is full
every night.
It certainly is one the most handsome
dining rooms in the area, with dark mahogany
bathed in light from sconces and shaded
overhanging lamps, with flowered half-curtains
above the booths. In
such soigné places one might expect an icy
reception, but instead a lovely young woman with a
big smile greets you with unfeigned delight that
you’ve arrived, and the waitstaff is every bit as
friendly.
The tables are well set with linens, the
stemware pings at the touch, and the complimentary
bread and butter are as good as you’ll find in
Manhattan. If, during the dinner, the tablecloth
is spotted or soiled, a fresh napkin is
immediately placed over it. There are no salt
and pepper shakers on the table, but none of the
dishes I tasted needed them.
I don’t know how sommelier Tira Johnson put
together such an extraordinary wine
Indeed, many people have commented on how
expensive Chez Fifi is, especially by
comparison to other chic bistros like La Goulue
and Orsay. I’m sorry to say that it is, especially
when charging $162 for a Dover sole––at least $40
to $70 more than its competitors.
But prices are in many cases not quite what
they seem, because portions are generous and easy
to share. Take, for instance, the half-chicken
with frites and salad and a bland
foie gras sauce at a whopping $82; at La Goulue
it’s $44; at Orsay, $34. Yet only a trencherman
could devour it all, and a whole chicken at $160
could feed four, in which case each portion comes
out to $40. A reasonably priced filet mignon au
poivre for $69 is hefty, and a big slab of cȏte
de boeuf is listed at “Market Price,” which
may well come to $300 or more. Omelettes as a main course
at dinner are not as frequent on Paris bistros
menus as they once were, but Chez
Fifi’s with mushrooms and Périgord truffles that
somehow survived winter was not as buttery as I’d
expected. And let’s face it, with just five main courses
on the menu, how many people are dying for an
omelette at eight o’clock at night? Among the
main courses is a fine Montauk black bass in
beurre blanc, There is a
selection of cheeses at an eye-popping $38, but
desserts are far more reasonable at $14
for crème brûlée, chocolate mousse with Chantilly
cream, and a delicious baba au rhum at
$16. Despite its
noise––after nine PM is a quieter time to go––Chez
Fifi oozes charm and, though it must be hell for
them to balance reservations, a night here runs as
smoothly and amiably as a neighborhood bistro
should. And if you go with friends and share à la
carte dishes, the high prices come into better
focus. Still, even
with access, one can get quickly tired of a menu
with so few dishes to choose among, when its
direct competitors’ offerings are so much more
expansive, enticing and less expensive. Maybe the current buzz will die
down at Chez Fifi, in which case it would a
delight to drop in now and then for one’s favorite
dish after visiting the Guggenheim or the newly
opened Frick Museum. Right now, just getting in at
all is a head-butting chore. Open for
dinner only. ❖❖❖
HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE By John Mariani ![]() CHAPTER EIGHT
© John Mariani, 2024 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER
American Spirits Producers in a Quandary over Trump's Tariffs By John Mariani ![]() Before
we
speak about tariffs, can you explain the “three-tier
system” of export, import, and distribution? The three-tier
system is a regulatory framework for alcohol
distribution in the U.S., designed to prevent
monopolies and encourage competition. The three main
components are producers (craft distillers like
us); distributors
(wholesalers)
and retailers (bars, restaurants, liquor
stores). Distillers sell to licensed wholesalers
(or to control state jurisdictions) who then sell to
licensed retailers. This system is designed to ensure
that alcohol is sold in a way that is regulated,
taxed, and monitored for safety and legal consumption.
The system is complex, but it helps maintain
transparency and control over alcohol sales. So,
if a bottle of whiskey costs the consumer $50, who
within the system makes how much money? The exact margins can vary
depending on Cost of Goods Sold (COGS), the state, the
product, the tax structure and the relationships
involved, but generally speaking, a distiller might
sell a whiskey that retails at the shelf for $50 to a
wholesaler for $25. The wholesaler may mark it up by
about 25–30%, selling it to the retailer for around
$32–$35. Their margin covers logistics, state
compliance, warehousing, and their own sales force.
The retailer then typically applies a markup of 30–50%
depending on their market and overhead. That brings
the final shelf price to $50, sometimes more in
certain regions. So, while the consumer sees a $50
bottle at the shelf, the distiller’s revenue from that
sale in this example is $25—and that amount needs to
support every part of the production process. And
what do restaurateurs pay? Restaurateurs generally pay
wholesale prices per bottle to distributors, but they
tend to price each pour based on the cost of the
bottle and their target margins. The markup can vary
greatly but, using the example above, if a restaurant
pays $35 for a bottle and a standard 1.5 oz. pour
costs them roughly $1.55, they might charge the
consumer $8-10 per pour, which means that one bottle
could bring in $135-$170 of revenue for the
restaurant. That markup might seem high, but it helps
cover staffing, glassware, and many of the costs and
inherent risks of running a bar program. You
advocate
expansion of “direct to consumer” shipping access
“to level the playing field with wine producers.”
How can this be accomplished? A key priority for me as a member
of DISCUS is highlighting how expanding
direct-to-consumer (DTC) shipping for spirits is a
meaningful step forward for the industry—especially
for craft producers like us who are working hard to
build strong, authentic relationships with our
customers. For the 3,000+ craft distillers in
the U.S., DTC access creates a vital path to market
that allows us to serve customers who can’t access our
products locally, as well as test new releases or
limited editions in a more agile way and to build
loyalty and brand awareness, especially outside major
distribution networks where the larger suppliers get
most of the attention. This can be accomplished
through state-level legislation that modernizes
shipping laws to reflect today’s consumer
expectations. People are already shopping online for
everything from groceries to luxury goods, and spirits
should be no different. With the right guardrails—like
secure age verification and proper licensing—DTC
shipping is not only feasible, it’s responsible. President
Trump’s
tariffs are based on his insistence that all the
countries in the world are “ripping the U.S. off.”
With respect to spirits, what does he mean
specifically? I can’t speak to the specifics of
the administration’s strategy, but I can share how
these tariffs are affecting American craft distillers
like us. We are an American small business producing
uniquely American products, and we do it without the
scale or pricing flexibility of global suppliers. When
tariffs are imposed, whether in response to trade
imbalances or broader geopolitical issues, craft
distillers bear the brunt. You
say that “Craft distillers lack the volume and
pricing flexibility to absorb tariffs, which can
hinder growth opportunities.” Please explain how. For craft distillers, tariffs are
more than just a headline: they’re a growth barrier.
Unlike multinational spirits companies that produce at
massive scale and can negotiate lower costs on
everything from packaging to logistics, small
producers operate with much thinner margins. We don’t
have the same volume or pricing flexibility to absorb
25+% tariffs and remain competitive. We can’t raise
prices overseas to cover the cost of a tariff, because
doing so would price us out of the market, especially
against global brands. We also can’t spread the cost
across millions of cases like the big players do. A
single export pallet for us might represent a
meaningful portion of quarterly sales. A tariff on
that shipment hits hard. Tariffs also limit whom we
can do business with internationally because
distributors and retailers abroad are less likely to
take a chance on a small American brand when a tariff
artificially inflates our price point compared to
local or tariff-free options. In
your capacity as a member of the 2025-2026 Craft
Advisory Council for the Distilled Spirits Council
of the United States (DISCUS), what are your
responsibilities and what do you think the current
problems are within the industry? My
role on the Craft Advisory Council is to represent the
interests of small and independent distillers,
advocating for policies that foster growth,
innovation, and fair competition. Key issues include
unfair tariffs, restrictions on direct-to-consumer
sales, regulatory burdens, and the challenge of
navigating the three-tier system. We also need more
support for marketing and distribution, particularly
for new brands entering the market, and better access
to international markets. Key issues include:
tax
reductions for beer and wine-based RTDs. This creates
an unfair competitive landscape for craft distillers
where lower-ABV spirits-based RTDs are hit with
excessive tax burdens compared to our malt-based
counterparts. I'm interested in working on tax parity
to protect our ability to respond nimbly to consumer
preferences and compete.
DTC Shipping:
For craft brands without the distribution muscle of
the big guys, DTC access can mean the difference
between thriving and stagnation. I see this in our own
business every single day where we are missing
opportunities to reach the consumers we've done a
great job marketing to. Expanding e-commerce market
access for spirits shipping is one of the biggest
opportunities to level the playing field and one I'm
personally very passionate about. Where
do you see the opportunities? As
consumers
seek more authentic, artisanal products, small-batch
spirits have seen increased demand. Authenticity
really is crucial. Additionally, having a well-defined
marketing strategy and a deep understanding of your
target audience is essential. It's also important to
be patient and remain faithful to your values, as
building brand recognition and trust is a gradual
process. The
trend
of premiumization is still on the rise, with consumers
increasingly willing to “drink better, not more.” At
CraftCo., we’ve embraced a commitment to peerless
quality from the start. What
are you advising producers, exporters, and
distributors to do to counter the new tariffs? First
of all, I encourage everyone to engage with
policymakers to advocate for tariff relief and promote
the benefits of untangling
distilled spirits products from wider trade
disputes. One of the best ways to do this is
through the Toasts Not Tariffs Coalition, which
represents the entire three-tier chain of the U.S.
beverage alcohol sector (producers, importers,
wholesaler, and retailers) who stand united in
opposition to U.S., EU, and UK, tariffs on beverage
alcohol products. As
you say, artisanal products are growing rapidly, but
it also seems the market is now flooded, and there
are not enough niche markets for all to survive. Do
you see further increases in these new labels? We’ve definitely seen an explosion
of innovation and storytelling in spirits over the
past decade. Terms like “small batch,” “sherry-cask
finished,” or “vintage-dated” have become common,
regardless of supplier size, but this kind of
creativity has also brought a lot of excitement to the
whiskey category and consumers are more educated and
curious than ever before. I think we’ll start to see a
natural correction in the next two to three years. The
barrier to entry has never been lower for new
expressions, but the barrier to long-term success is
rising because access to distribution, capital, and
meaningful brand loyalty are becoming the 2, not just
a clever finish or marketing spin. What
spirits
by category are now the best sellers in the U.S. and
is this changing? ·
Whiskey
(especially American whiskey, bourbon, and rye)
remains a dominant category, with strong consumer
interest in premium and aged varieties. ·
Vodka is still popular, especially in the mainstream
market, though craft vodka brands are beginning to
gain more attention. ·
Tequila is still a category with tremendous
opportunity, with demand for high-quality, artisanal,
additive-free products skyrocketing. New
medical
studies have reported that “no amount of alcohol” is
safe from health concerns. How does the industry
respond to that both publicly and privately? As an industry, we’ve responded by
committing to education, transparency, and moderation
messaging through the work of Responsibility.org.
There
is more emphasis on serving sizes, lower-ABV options,
and clear labeling. There’s also growing investment in
alcohol-free spirits and low-proof alternatives, which
speaks to the industry’s willingness to meet consumers
where they are, whether they choose to drink or
not. Last week Trump paused
tariffs on the EU but also said that bourbon would
be exempt from being taxed. Why do you think
this occurred? Was there lobbying on part of bourbon
distillers? Did DISCUS play a role? We’re
encouraged
by the decision to exempt bourbon from the recent
tariff threats., which signals recognition of the
economic and cultural significance of American
whiskey. While I can’t speak to the exact political
calculus, persistent and well-organized advocacy
initiatives by industry stakeholders, including
organizations like DISCUS, have helped elevate the
issue at the federal level and underscores the
real-world consequences these trade disputes have on
American producers. The pause gives the industry some
breathing room and a chance to refocus on innovation
rather than navigating costly measures. ❖❖❖
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