MARIANI’S

 

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April 27,  2025                                                                                                            NEWSLETTER

 

 


Founded in 1996 

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"Renganeschi's Restaurant Saturday Night"
by John French Sloan (1912).

        

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THIS WEEK
WHAT'S IN A NAME:
THE FOOD AND DRINK OF THE
KENTUCKY DERBY IN LOUISVILLE

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
BIA

By John Mariani


HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
CHAPTER  NINE

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SAUVIGNON BLANCS VEER AWAY
FROM SWEET NEW ZEALAND STYLE

By John Mariani

 


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WHAT'S IN A NAME:
THE FOOD AND DRINK OF THE
KENTUCKY DERBY IN LOUISIVILLE

By John Mariani





 


    The Kentucky Derby lasts all of two minutes but in Louisville it begins days before with a series of parties that can last all day and half the night. Of course, the city always has a vibrant nightlife in the bars and restaurants around town, and, once you’ve clinched a tough-to-get hotel room, joining the festivities is just a question of showing up.
    During the preceding  week in Louisville, which is promoted as Bourbon City, hordes of people will be joining the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, which begins at the Welcome Center within the Frazier Museum and takes buses out to visit distilleries like Angel’s Envy, Michter’s, Evan Williams and Old Forester, while the city’s own Urban Bourbon Trail heads down Whiskey Row on Main Street, which is now dotted with distilleries and restaurants. 
    At any time of year eating Kentuckians’ favorite foods is easy but requisite during Derby Week, not least Pimento cheese and  Country ham and biscuits, which will be found at every party, with   puffy split buttermilk biscuits with a thin slice of rosy, salty, thinly sliced country ham on the table. With this you drink a Mint Julep (below), a cocktail made from bourbon, sugar, and mint, traditionally served at the running of the Derby. The cocktail dates back to before 1800.  Historian Frances Parkinson Keyes observed that “The last instructions which a Virginia gentleman murmurs on his deathbed are, ‘Never insult a decent woman, never bring a horse in the house, and never crush the mint in a julep!”’
    The other famous local cocktail is the Old Fashioned, made with whiskey (bourbon or rye), sugar, and bitters, served in a squat Old Fashioned glass. It was created around 1881, possibly at the Pendennis Club that opened that year.
         Another signature Louisville dish is the hot brown, (below) created at Louisville’s Brown Hotel in the 1920s when one night guests at its dinner dance went to the restaurant for a bite, and chef Fred Schmidt came up with an open-faced turkey sandwich with bacon and a delicate Mornay sauce. It is still the featured dish at the hotel, though not easily found outside of it.
    But no dish is more specific trace day than the Derby pie (right), a trademark name of the Kerns Bakery in town, for a very thick, rich chocolate-chip pecan pie.    
    You can find dishes like these at The Kentucky Derby Museum at Churchill Downs nine food and drink venues, including Starting Gate Pavilion Balcony, the Skye Terrace, Millionaire’s Row and Stakes Dining Room.
    One of my favorite places in town, dating back to 1958 is Pat’s Steakhouse (left), set on two floors of 150-year-old coach house with décor of dark woods, brass chandeliers, Waterford crystal, hundreds of old photos and white tablecloths, along with a wall of more than 60 bourbons. Begin with a platter of oysters, maybe the frogs’ legs in garlic butter and then the 16-ounce strip steak or Pat’s fried chicken.
  
    Kentucky has a string barbecue culture, and one of the best I found in Louisville is Backdeck, owned by Chan Nelson, who insists you don’t drown his succulent ribs in sauce. Best bargain is the three-meat platter with beans, smoked mac and cheese, and yams.
    Red Hog is a butcher shop that also purveys terrific sandwiches, soups and charcuterie. Fat Tony  sandwich ($16), mounted with mortadella, salami cotto, city ham, provolone, mayo, hot pepper tapenade, lettuce and onion, is terrific.
    There’s first-rate Italian food at ROC, owned by chef Rocco Cadolini, for sumptuous pastas. Try for an outdoor patio table.
    For the big, brash splurge––and it’s sure to be packed every night––make a reservation in advance at Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse (above), which does indeed have 14 cuts of steak, as well as 15 variations of sushi, wagyu meatballs, a massive pork porterhouse with polenta cakes and heady black pepper jus and for dessert  a  three-layer carrot cake with warm caramel cream cheese icing. The restaurant’s wine list deserves its many awards for great breadth and depth.

 



 

 


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NEW YORK CORNER

                           

                                                    BIA                              

                                                                                480 North Bedford Road

                                                                             Chappaqua, NY

                                                                               914-855-0123
           

                                                                                                    By John Mariani

   

 

    It’s become nearly impossible not to find exciting, upscale, sophisticated restaurants just about anywhere in the U.S.––not to mention myriad storefront eateries with small menus of barbecue, dim sum and or sushi––and this has become just as true in the suburbs of major cities, whether it’s Atlanta, Dallas, New Orleans and San Francisco. It is definitely the case outside of New York’s Tristate area that includes New Jersey, Long Island, Connecticut and Westchester County.

         As someone who lives in Westchester, I would not have said this twenty years ago, but that has changed in every sector, from Indian to Chinese and steakhouses to bistros. Real estate is high in the county but more affordable than in New York, and that factor lends itself to larger, more spacious restaurants done with expansive décor.

         One of the newest, open just three months, is Bia American Kitchen & Bar at Chappaqua Crossing set on what was once part of the vast Reader’s Digest headquarters, sold off in 2004. Spread over two dining rooms and long bar and wine wall, with 200 seats, Bia’s lay-out and design have snap, with potted greenery and globe ceiling lighting that is both flattering and surprising. The choicest seating are large semi-circular booths, with tablecloths and lamps. Tall curtained windows overlook the Crossing. On a midweek visit the sound level in the dining room was very easy for conversation.  

         Bia is a venture by Simi and Miranda Polozani, who also operate Prime Pub in Somers, NY. (“Bia” is the name for “daughter” in Albanian.) Chef William Deluca’s menu draws from a global perspective, and he chooses his ingredients carefully.

         There’s a lot to choose from, including a raw bar with shellfish platters for two or four people. Among the starters I enjoyed was an unexpected shiitake bao bun (right) with Korean barbecue sauce, sesame and crunchy jalapeño slaw. There are eight soups and salads and a section “for the table” that includes a flatbread with honey and goat’s cheese that was also rather flat on flavor.  Among the “Handhelds” is a hefty lobster roll, with plenty of meat,  served cold, à la Connecticut style.

         There are five items from the grill whose star was a double cut New York strip––at $55 a very good buy––and I was happy to see a buttery baked potato by its side and a lush Gorgonzola sauce to gild the lily. Well complemented by a tequila beurre blanc was an impeccably cooked striped bass pepped up with cilantro and  lime couscous.

    The admirable Kentucky Freedom Run Farm provides the fine, flavorful lamb for a slow braising and sided with a spicy tomato jam risotto, coriander, mint-and-pistachio gremolata and the reduction of the meat’s juices. A tender and very juicy Duroc pig gave up a thick pork chop with a cauliflower puree, cherry peppers, caramelized onions and more of that creamy Gorgonzola sauce.

         All these main courses were sumptuous, and our party of four took a lot of it home, all well priced.

         Desserts follow suit, begging to be shared, like the Dubai chocolate dome;  a chef’s rendering of an Almond Joy bar as a coconut gelato with chocolate shavings, toasted almonds and chocolate crèmeux; and a superb Grand Marnier soufflé (chocolate also available) with a balance of soft interior and browned top (right).

         The wine list is adequate to the menu, with a very nice selection of bottles under $100.

         Bia in any city, town or village would be an addition that would draw people for all sorts of reasons, from the conviviality of the bar to the family comfort of the dining rooms and the romantic cast of the lighting. It should even draw those on a springtime’s drive up the weaving Bronx River or Taconic Parkways, about one hour from New York.

 

        

Appetizers from $12-$22; main courses $32-$155 (for two).


Open 7 days for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.

















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HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
 
By  John Mariani






CHAPTER  NINE


         “How goes the round-up?”
       David had called Detective Borel to get any update.

         “No one dead yet, at least. Which makes criminal intent a little less likely. We have had some reports of other people in this city going to hospitals with the same symptoms, but at least for now the disease does not seem to be spreading.”
         “Well, that’s good. Have you checked all the names in the hotel registers for who is sick or may have become sick and those who still haven’t?”
         “Yes, but we don’t see any pattern, nothing suspicious. No known terrorists we can identify as coming into Paris.”
         “What about a mole already here.”
         “It’s always possible. I’d be more interested in finding three Parisians who checked into the hotels at the same time, if that were the case. Not too many Parisians check into Parisian hotels unless it’s to have an affair.”
         “Which I hear happens,” said David.
         Borel just snickered and said, “In any case, David, you will not be surprised to know it’s not the first thing on the police agenda. We’ve got enough real criminal cases to pursue before devoting our resources on the hotel incident, which might just turn out to be a case of one guest from one hotel bringing the disease to another and another. I hope that may be the case.”
         Katie and David spent Monday morning further sightseeing, which included two hours at the Louvre, about which David said, “Almost as good as the Metropolitan Museum in New York.” Katie was basking in the memories she had of her college days in Paris visiting the great museum.
    Both had checked their contacts in Paris, and Katie and Catherine spoke twice over the course of the day. According to Catherine, CNN had let the story lie in limbo, asking her to keep the producers up to date with what she’d learn from the Paris press. The local newspapers had already stuck the story on page four, a brief column saying that nothing new had turned up, while French TV did only a quick sound bite by a police officer at one of the hotels and one from a doctor they used as a contributor. As usual, the same video footage of exiting emergency workers and patients was played over and over again.
         Around two o’clock, Katie’s cell phone rang, and the voice, without a greeting, said, “If you wish to come to the Institut at four o’clock I can tell you what we have found out about the virus.” Katie told Dr. Baer she’d be there and thanked her for calling.
         “How’d she sound on the phone?” asked David.
         “Not exactly bubbly, just the way she was yesterday morning. I wonder if she’s spoken to the police.”
         David called Borel, who said he had heard from Dr. Baer and she was being interviewed by colleagues at that moment.
         “I have no report back yet,” said Borel.
         David said he and Katie were going to see her at four and would compare notes with the Paris detective. At 3:30 the Americans took a taxi to the Institut and were ushered in with the same institutional greeting as before.
         “Don’t the French ever smile?” asked David.
         “Yes, but never at strangers.”
         “Nice,” said David, shaking his head.
         Dr. Baer met them and took them back to her office.
         “So, you have news?” asked David.
         “Yes, about the virus.”
         Katie interrupted, saying, “Just so we understand each other, Doctor, if you wish to tell me something you don’t want me to quote you on, say so before you say it.”
         “I would never say anything to you that I did not want you to report,” said the physician. “If I am to trust you, I will not tell you secrets. That way I do not need to worry about trusting you.”
         “Fair enough. So, I can tape our conversation?”
            Dr. Baer merely shrugged.
           “First of all, David said you have already spoken to the police?”
         “Yes, they just left a few moments ago.”
         “And did you tell them anything you can’t tell us?”
         “No. Everything I say is with the permission of the Institut.”
         “Okay,” said David, “so what can you tell us?”
         “As I told you yesterday, it is indeed a virus, not a bacteria.”
         “Is that good or bad?” asked David.
         “A bit worse because there is no cure or drug we can give people. Their immune systems either have to attack the virus or they will get very sick.”
         “And are they?”
         “The reports from the hospitals say there are still no deaths but many people are very sick. There is a good deal of pneumonia. Their immune systems seem to be overreacting, which it often will.”
         Katie and David saw that Dr. Baer was not going to offer any information beyond the specific questions they asked her.
         “So, do you know what kind of virus it is?” asked Katie.
         “We know something about it but not everything just yet. We do know that it falls outside the scope of viruses we are familiar with.”
         “Meaning it is not like a seasonal flu that hits in fall and winter?”
         “It may mimic such a virus, but this was one is completely different in origin.”
         “Meaning?”
         “It was manufactured.”







©
John Mariani, 2024



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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


SAUVIGNON BLANCS VEER AWAY
FROM SWEET NEW ZEALAND STYLE
By John Mariani




 
Illustration of Larkmead Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Blocks


    The world of wine lovers may be split into those who love certain aspects of Sauvignon Blanc and those who find the wines too floral and herbaceous to enjoy the way one might drier Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio or Riesling. In France Sauvignon Blanc––let’s call it “SB”––has a heralded place in its viticulture as the basis for Bordeaux wines like Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and, most notably, Sauternes and Barsac.
    What alerted many international consumers to SB, while turning many others off the varietal, was the immensely popular Cloudy Bay version from New Zealand, which appealed to those who like their wine to taste like pungent, grassy fruit punch. In fact, it really put New Zealand on the map as a wine producing nation, and its success caused a tsunami of mediocre SBs to flood the market as a predominant style that for the past two decades has been much copied in California and internationally.

According to Wine Business Monthly, SB Blanc was the only varietal  of the top 10 wines sold by retailers to show growth in both sales value and volume last year.

    Fortunately smaller, more focused vineyards in California and other countries have diverged from that cloying style, and I’m finding much better, more refreshing SBs than ever. Surprisingly, some of them are now priced above $50, which had never before been the case. Arkenstone Estate Blanc 2022 was priced at $125, and it’s already sold out.

Here are some I’ve enjoyed this year from the 2023 and 2024 vintages.

 

Southern Right South Africa 2024 ($16). Founded in 1994, Southern Right is a small winery that specializes in Pinotage and SB made  . just behind the old fishing village of Hermanus. in the cool, maritime Hemel-en-Aarde Valley,  within the Walker Bay appellation. Founder and winemaker Hamilton Russell aims to bring out unique South African flavors, and  it is very well-priced for this clean, fresh style.



 


The Sattlerhof  Winery 2023 ($25). This Austrian winery has existed since the late 1880s in the village of Gamlitz,  and was given its current name by Wilhelm Sattler Senior and his wife Aloisia  and his two brothers Willi and Hanes in the 1960s.  The vineyard covers 99 acres of organically farmed vines,  including “grand crus” Kranachberg and Pfarrweingarten. Known for its longevity, this is a Sauvignon Blanc with 13% alcohol that ages well to develop more character.

 

 

Priest Ranch 2023 ($28). Priest Ranch in Napa Valley dates to 1869,  established by Gold Rush prospector James Joshua Priest. This SB comes from the Somerson Estate in Napa Valley, and shows a considerable hike in alcohol at 14.3%, and it thereby gains body. It was sulfured to prevent Malolactic fermentation, then aged on the lees and stirred twice a week before being bottled. The winery’s 244 acres allow for multiple block blending that adds nuance.

 

Stewart Napa Valley 2023 ($36).  The grapes come 100% from the Money Lane Vineyard in the Oakville AVA. The vintage was a cool one, allowing the grapes to mature slowly in autumn to balance sweet and acid components. It is well fruited and at 12.9% alcohol easy to drink as an aperitif and cheeses.

Brassfield Estate 2023 ($22). While there is definite fruit on the palate, there is also a crisp acidity that keeps it from being overripe. The vineyard, owned by Jerry Brassfield,  is in Lake County, California, on the High Valley AVA known as “High Serenity Ranch,” where temperature swings of 40 degrees are common. The wine is aged six months and lightly fined and filtered.

 

Appassionata Über Estate 2022   ($40). German winemaker Ernst “Erni” Loosen’s has made this SB his “passion project,” from Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains in the Willamette Valley. Given his heritage, Loosens aimed for a more refined European style of SB. He and head winemaker Tim Malone craft the wine to be long-lived, and I think this will be considerably more interesting and balanced in a year or two. Still, now it is one of my favorites.

 

Larkmead Lillie 2023 ($75). With 115 contiguous acres of vineyard, spread across the Napa Valley floor, Larkmead had been devoted to Bordeaux varietals, redeveloped since 1995 with a single exception. Mornings enjoy a cool, rolling fog that comes from the Chalk Hill Gap in Knights Valley, and evenings cool down drastically. According to vineyard manager Nabor Camariea, he compares Lillie to a Chardonnay: “The nose may be aromatically in tune with its variety, but the palate possesses the weight and gravitas of a Chardonnay.”


J. de Villebois 2023 ($23). Typical of the restraint the better French SBs show, this example comes from a family winery owned by Joost and Miguela de Willebois, located  in the Loire Valley with a Touraine appellation. The alcohol is a sensible 12.5% for a SB, and the acidity is very refreshing and the minerality delicious throughout a citrus-dominated palate. They began making SB in 2004 and it is now their flagship wine, along with making  Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre of high quality.

 

Andica 2024 ($13). A very well priced Chilean SB made by the major winery Miguel Torres in the Curicó Valley. It’s got pleasing heft in its 13.5% alcohol, and was aged in stainless steel until bottle last June. Its pale green-gold color is like polished brass, and the herbs are in tandem with the aromas and acids to make it an excellent wine with shellfish.

 

Double Diamond 2023  ($55). Napa’s Double Diamond is well known for its red wines, but this is their first white, in its second year of release. The grapes come from the To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville and Wappo Hill (Stags Leap District), which gives them intensity and concentration of flavor and aromas. Winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown blends 80% SB with 20% Semillon (as is often the case in France), spending ten months in both steel and oak barrels, to emerge at a big 14.5% alcohol.

 

Ink Grade 2022  ($75). Produced by Matt Taylor from older vines, this is a very expensive example made from grapes in Napa’s Howell Mountain that are pressed longer than usual “to build structure and expose a minor note of bitterness in the finish.” He also recommends a double or triple decanting right now to sew together its virtues, but that he believes “it will open on its own in  2026.” As such it is a fine SB that will go especially well with poultry as well as seafood in rich sauces.

 

 



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AND AFTER 40 SECONDS, YOU'LL BE DOIN' THE FRUG!
 

"THE 30-SECOND TEST TO SPOT FINE WINE" By Tony Turnbull, The Times (March 2025).

Take a sip, swallow and time how long you can taste the wine for

Under 5 seconds: it’s rubbish

5-10 secs: ordinary supermarket wine

11-15 secs: decent grape

15 to 30 secs: a good wine

Over 30 secs: the magic begins

 






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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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