MARIANI’S Virtual
GourImet
April 27, 2025
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() "Renganeschi's Restaurant Saturday Night" by John French Sloan (1912).
❖❖❖
THIS WEEK WHAT'S IN A NAME: THE FOOD AND DRINK OF THE KENTUCKY DERBY IN LOUISVILLE By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER BIA By John Mariani HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE CHAPTER NINE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR SAUVIGNON BLANCS VEER AWAY FROM SWEET NEW ZEALAND STYLE By John Mariani ❖❖❖
WHAT'S IN A NAME: THE FOOD AND DRINK OF THE KENTUCKY DERBY IN LOUISIVILLE By John Mariani ![]()
The Kentucky Derby lasts all of two minutes but in Louisville it begins days before with a series of parties that can last all day and half the night. Of course, the city always has a vibrant nightlife in the bars and restaurants around town, and, once you’ve clinched a tough-to-get hotel room, joining the festivities is just a question of showing up. ![]() ![]() At any time of year eating Kentuckians’ favorite foods is easy but requisite during Derby Week, not least Pimento cheese and Country ham and biscuits, which will be found at every party, with puffy split buttermilk biscuits with a thin slice of rosy, salty, thinly sliced country ham on the table. With this you drink a Mint Julep (below), a cocktail made from bourbon, sugar, and mint, traditionally served at the running of the Derby. The cocktail dates back to before 1800. Historian Frances Parkinson Keyes observed that “The last instructions which a Virginia gentleman murmurs on his deathbed are, ‘Never insult a decent woman, never bring a horse in the house, and never crush the mint in a julep!”’ The other famous local cocktail is the Old Fashioned, made with whiskey (bourbon or rye), sugar, and bitters, served in a squat Old Fashioned glass. It was created around 1881, possibly at the Pendennis Club that opened that year. ![]() But no dish is more specific trace day than the Derby pie (right), a trademark name of the Kerns Bakery in town, for a very thick, rich chocolate-chip pecan pie. ![]() You can find dishes like these at The Kentucky Derby Museum at Churchill Downs nine food and drink venues, including Starting Gate Pavilion Balcony, the Skye Terrace, Millionaire’s Row and Stakes Dining Room. ![]() ![]() Kentucky has a string barbecue culture, and one of the best I found in Louisville is Backdeck, owned by Chan Nelson, who insists you don’t drown his succulent ribs in sauce. Best bargain is the three-meat platter with beans, smoked mac and cheese, and yams. ![]() There’s first-rate Italian food at ROC, owned by chef Rocco Cadolini, for sumptuous pastas. Try for an outdoor patio table. For the big, brash splurge––and it’s sure to be packed every night––make a reservation in advance at Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse (above), which does indeed have 14 cuts of steak, as well as 15 variations of sushi, wagyu meatballs, a massive pork porterhouse with polenta cakes and heady black pepper jus and for dessert a three-layer carrot cake with warm caramel cream cheese icing. The restaurant’s wine list deserves its many awards for great breadth and depth.
❖❖❖ NEW YORK CORNER
BIA
480 North Bedford Road
Chappaqua, NY
914-855-0123
By John
Mariani
It’s become nearly
impossible not to find exciting,
upscale, sophisticated restaurants just about
anywhere in the U.S.––not to mention myriad
storefront eateries with small menus of
barbecue, dim sum and or sushi––and this has
become just as true in the suburbs of major
cities, whether it’s Atlanta, Dallas, New
Orleans and San Francisco. It is definitely the
case outside of New York’s Tristate area that
includes New Jersey, Long Island, Connecticut
and Westchester County.
As someone who lives in Westchester, I
would not have said this twenty years ago, but
that has changed in every sector, from Indian to
Chinese and steakhouses to bistros. Real estate is
high in the county but more affordable than in New
York, and that factor lends itself to larger, more
spacious restaurants done with expansive décor.
Bia is a venture by Simi and
Miranda Polozani, who also operate Prime Pub in
Somers, NY. (“Bia” is the name for “daughter” in
Albanian.) Chef William Deluca’s menu draws from
a
There’s a lot to
choose from, including a raw bar with shellfish
platters for two or four people. Among the
starters I enjoyed was an unexpected shiitake bao bun
(right) with Korean barbecue sauce, sesame
and crunchy jalapeño slaw. There are eight soups
and salads and a section “for the table” that
includes a flatbread with honey and goat’s cheese
that was also rather flat on flavor. Among
the “Handhelds” is a hefty lobster roll, with
plenty of meat, served
cold, à la Connecticut style.
There are five items from the grill whose
star was a double cut New York strip––at $55 a
very good buy––and I was happy to see a buttery
baked potato by its side and a lush Gorgonzola
sauce to gild the lily. Well complemented by a
tequila beurre blanc was an impeccably cooked
striped bass pepped up with cilantro and lime
couscous.
All these main courses were sumptuous, and
our party of four took a lot of it home, all well
priced.
Desserts follow suit, begging to be shared,
like the Dubai chocolate dome; a chef’s
rendering of an Almond Joy bar as a coconut gelato
with chocolate shavings, toasted almonds and
chocolate crèmeux;
and a superb Grand Marnier soufflé (chocolate also
available) with a balance of soft interior and
browned top (right).
The wine list is adequate to the menu, with
a very nice selection of bottles under $100.
Bia in any city,
town or village would be an addition that would
draw people for all sorts of reasons, from the
conviviality of the bar to the family comfort of
the dining rooms and the romantic cast of the
lighting. It should even draw those on a
springtime’s drive up the weaving Bronx River or
Taconic Parkways, about one hour from New York.
❖❖❖ HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE By John Mariani ![]() CHAPTER NINE
“How goes the
round-up?”
© John Mariani, 2024 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
SAUVIGNON BLANCS VEER AWAY FROM SWEET NEW ZEALAND STYLE By John Mariani ![]() Illustration of Larkmead Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Blocks The world of wine
lovers may be split into those who love certain
aspects of Sauvignon Blanc and those who find the
wines too floral and herbaceous to enjoy the way
one might drier Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio or
Riesling. In France Sauvignon Blanc––let’s call it
“SB”––has a heralded place in its viticulture as
the basis for Bordeaux wines like Sancerre,
Pouilly-Fumé and, most notably, Sauternes and
Barsac. According to Wine
Business Monthly, SB Blanc was the only
varietal of
the top 10 wines sold by retailers to show growth in
both sales value and volume last year.
Fortunately smaller, more focused vineyards in
California and other countries have diverged from
that cloying style, and I’m finding much better,
more refreshing SBs than ever. Surprisingly, some of
them are now priced above $50, which had never
before been the case. Arkenstone
Estate Blanc 2022 was priced at $125, and
it’s already sold out. Here are some I’ve enjoyed
this year from the 2023 and 2024 vintages.
The Sattlerhof Winery
2023
($25). This Austrian winery has existed since the
late 1880s in the village of Gamlitz, and was
given its current name by Wilhelm Sattler Senior and
his wife Aloisia and
his two brothers Willi and Hanes in the 1960s. The vineyard
covers 99 acres of organically farmed vines, including
“grand crus” Kranachberg and Pfarrweingarten. Known
for its longevity, this is a Sauvignon Blanc with
13% alcohol that ages well to develop more
character.
Priest Ranch 2023 ($28). Priest Ranch
in Napa Valley dates to 1869, established
by Gold Rush prospector James Joshua Priest. This SB
comes from the Somerson Estate in Napa
Valley, and shows a considerable hike in alcohol
at 14.3%, and it thereby gains body. It was sulfured
to prevent Malolactic fermentation, then aged on the
lees and stirred twice a week before being bottled.
The winery’s 244 acres allow for multiple block
blending that adds nuance. Stewart Napa
Valley 2023 ($36). The grapes
come 100% from the Money Lane Vineyard in the
Oakville AVA. The vintage was a cool one,
allowing the grapes to mature slowly in autumn to
balance sweet and acid components. It is well
fruited and at 12.9% alcohol easy to drink as an
aperitif and cheeses. Brassfield
Estate 2023 ($22). While
there is definite fruit on the palate, there is also
a crisp acidity that keeps it from being overripe.
The vineyard, owned by Jerry Brassfield, is in Lake
County, California, on the High Valley AVA known as “High
Serenity Ranch,” where temperature swings of 40
degrees are common. The wine is aged six months
and lightly fined and filtered. Appassionata
Über
Estate 2022 ($40).
German
winemaker Ernst “Erni” Loosen’s has made this SB his
“passion project,” from Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains
in the Willamette Valley. Given his heritage,
Loosens aimed for a more refined European style of
SB. He and head winemaker Tim Malone craft the wine
to be long-lived, and I think this will be
considerably more interesting and balanced in a year
or two. Still, now it is one of my favorites. Larkmead
Lillie 2023
($75). With 115
contiguous acres of vineyard, spread across the Napa
Valley floor, Larkmead had been devoted to Bordeaux
varietals, redeveloped since 1995 with a single
exception. Mornings enjoy a cool, rolling fog that
comes from the Chalk Hill Gap in Knights Valley, and
evenings cool down drastically. According to
vineyard manager Nabor Camariea, he compares Lillie to a Chardonnay:
“The nose may be aromatically in tune with its
variety, but the palate possesses the weight and
gravitas of a Chardonnay.” J. de Villebois 2023 ($23). Typical of the
restraint the better French SBs show, this example
comes from a family winery owned by Joost and
Miguela de Willebois, located in the Loire
Valley with a Touraine appellation. The alcohol is a
sensible 12.5% for a SB, and the acidity is very
refreshing and the minerality delicious throughout a
citrus-dominated palate. They began making SB in
2004 and it is now their flagship wine, along with
making Pouilly-Fumé
and Sancerre of high quality. Andica 2024 ($13). A very well priced
Chilean SB made by the major winery Miguel Torres in
the Curicó Valley. It’s got pleasing heft in its
13.5% alcohol, and was aged in stainless steel until
bottle last June. Its pale green-gold color is like
polished brass, and the herbs are in tandem with the
aromas and acids to make it an excellent wine with
shellfish. Double Diamond 2023 ($55).
Napa’s Double Diamond is well known for its red
wines, but this is their first white, in its second
year of release. The
grapes come from the To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville
and Wappo Hill Ink Grade 2022 ($75).
Produced by Matt Taylor from older vines, this is a
very expensive example made from grapes in Napa’s
Howell Mountain that are pressed longer than usual
“to build structure and expose a minor note of
bitterness in the finish.” He also recommends a
double or triple decanting right now to sew together
its virtues, but that he believes “it will open on
its own in 2026.”
As such it is a fine SB that will go especially well
with poultry as well as seafood in rich sauces. ❖❖❖ AND AFTER 40
SECONDS, YOU'LL BE DOIN' THE FRUG!
|
![]() |
The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35) Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller. "This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe. "Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit. |
"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. "Italian
restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far
outnumber their French rivals. Many of
these establishments are zestfully described
in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an
entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by
food-and-wine correspondent John F.
Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street
Journal.
"Equal parts
history, sociology, gastronomy, and just
plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the
World tells the captivating and delicious
story of the (let's face it) everybody's
favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and
more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews,
editorial director of The Daily
Meal.com. "A fantastic and fascinating
read, covering everything from the influence
of Venice's spice trade to the impact of
Italian immigrants in America and the
evolution of alta cucina. This book will
serve as a terrific resource to anyone
interested in the real story of Italian
food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's
Ciao
Italia. "John Mariani has written the
definitive history of how Italians won their
way into our hearts, minds, and
stomachs. It's a story of pleasure over
pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer,
owner of NYC restaurants Union Square
Cafe, The Modern, and Maialino.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin.
If you wish to subscribe to this
newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html
© copyright John Mariani 2025