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MARIANI’S
Virtual Gourmet
June 29, 2025
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() Marlon Brando in "The
Godfather II" (1974)
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THIS WEEK TRAVELING TO EUROPE THIS YEAR? HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER SAN MATTEO PIZZERIA E CUCINA By John Mariani HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE CHAPTER SEVENTEEN By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR Lambruscos Deserve More Respect By John Mariani ❖❖❖
TRAVELING
TO EUROPE THIS YEAR?
By John
Mariani ![]()
Even if you manage
to push your way through the crowds of
tourists in Barcelona and Mallorca this year
on vacation, you may now find yourself
spritzed by a local with a water gun who
wished you’d stay home.
The growing antagonism towards tourists
is in the face of still-growing travel––the
World Travel & Tourism Council projected
that this year 142 countries out of 185 will set
records, especially to Europe, spending $11.1
trillion and accounting for 330 million jobs.
Up until recently, once less-trammeled
cities like Lisbon, Milan, Valencia and
Reykjavik were sensible alternatives, but
now, they, too, are engorged with foreign
travelers. But now, even Iceland, with a
population of less than 400,000, is on target to
get 2.5 million tourists in 2026, and more than
two-thirds of its Airbnb’s were once long-term
apartments.
I have visited Europe four times in the
last eight months––Spain, Austria, Italy and
Croatia––and one thing I did not find was
any anti-American attitude, though anti-Trump
feelings run
high. So, if you get squirted with
water in Barcelona
(it will cool you off this summer),
it’s not because you’re from the U.S. but only
because you and millions of others from around
the world are upsetting the locals’ tolerance
for crowds, noise and discomfort.
If you do plan to visit Europe this
summer here are some considerations to keep in
mind: ● If you’ve never been to
Europe’s major cities, by all means go, but
expect crowds and high prices for hotels and
BnBs. Check the on-line sites like Trivago,
Expedia and Travelocity for places within your
price range. If you do go to Rome, Paris, Madrid
and Athens, August is the month their
populations take their own vacations, so crowds
will not be so bad. Be aware that all the
Mediterranean countries will be very
hot, and waiting on lines can be daunting.
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NEW YORK CORNER SAN
MATTEO
1559 Second Avenue 212-861-2434
By John
Mariani
Pizza
and Panuozzi
I
have refrained from getting into
the food media’s never-ending
harangues over the best pizzas in any city
because they have as much
credibility as descriptions of twenty different
brands of chinos.
If,
however, there are first-rate pizzas to be found
within a restaurant that is
also serving excellent Italian food across the
board, I’m happy to heap praise
on both. Remarkably, a ten-year-old trattoria on
New York’s upper east side
named San Matteo Pizzeria e Cucina has evolved so
that it probably should
switch its name to
San Matteo Cucina e
Pizzeria, for the Italian food, from antipasti
through main courses is among the most
robust and delicious in the city, thanks to Fabio
and Ciro Casella, whose bonafides
begin in their native Salerno. Moving to New York
in 1999, Fabio worked at the
fabled Dean & DeLuca
and Mike’s
Deli of Arthur Avenue before striking out on his
own with his brother to open San
Matteo Pizza & Espresso Bar in 2010 on 90th
and Second Avenue, then
the current restaurant on 81st in 2015
(with another on East 89th
Street).
Were
you able to resist ordering a pizza as a first
course, I highly recommend the
luscious, cream-centered burrata and
prosciutto or the crocche di
patate––potato croquettes of a kind that
used to be on so many Italian
restaurants, now here revived, with a crispy fried
crust and velvety interior. The eggplant
parmigiana oozes with cheese and soft vegetable.
Of course the potato gnocchi alla
sorrentina are
housemade, of the right, tender texture and
cuddled in a tomato and eggplant
sauce, while other options include tagliatelle
with mushrooms, spaghetti
cooked in a pouch and rigatoni with a convincing
bolognese sauce rich and
complex with vegetables and meat.
For dessert there’s a generous tiramisù,
but even better is
the cream-centered lemon cake.
There’s not much to say about the décor,
which more
resembles the average pizzeria than a stylish
trattoria. Try to get one of the
two tables by the window overlooking the avenue.
The
Casellas have done well with two New York units of
San
Matteo, and this year will be selling their pizzas at the
upcoming U.S. Open. Plans are in the
works for a gelateria in the neighborhood and
maybe San Matteos in other
cities. I
really
hope they don’t expand too much or too
quickly. Food this good takes very careful
monitoring, and there are only two
Casellas to make sure. But for now, San Matteo has
given the upper east side
the kind of Italian food so often copied and raved
about downtown and in Brooklyn
of a kind that go on and off those endless
lists. San Matteo should be
around for a very long time.
Open
daily for lunch and dinner. ❖❖❖
HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE By John Mariani ![]() CHAPTER SEVENTEEN
“Oh, I’m sure he
is, but he’s not one of the big guys.” © John Mariani, 2024 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
Italy’s Lambrusco Wines Deserve
More Respect
If
the name Lambrusco means anything to most Americans
it is
probably because at some point they tried and even
enjoyed Riunite, a pink,
fizzy, sweet alternative to Kool-Aid for adults with
the tag line, “Reunite on
ice, that’s nice!” (I’m surprised they didn’t
Italianize it with “atsa nice!) A
jug of it still sells for $14. Back in the 1970s it
was a wine crafted to
compete with other sweet wines like Portugal’s
Mateus and Spanish sangria,
loved precisely because they were sweet and could be
splashed over ice.
Unfortunately Riunite’s popularity was so
great that wine
lovers assumed all Lambruscos were of the same kind.
Yet in Emilia-Romagna,
where Lambrusco is made, that is far from the truth.
In fact, the authoritative
Native Wine Grapes of Italy by Ian d’Agata
devotes eight double-column
pages to the wine, writing, “The Lambrusco family
of grapes and wines
could do with better public relations, as their
image is tarnished in most fine
wine drinking circles; fairly enough too, as these
varieties are behind a
collection of not very distinguished wines.” He also
quotes Italian chef Lidia
Bastianich as saying, “Lambruscos have been
misrepresented by industrial
versions that have the soda pop flavors they think
Americans might want.”
There are at least eight varieties of
Lambrusco grapes (not
to be confused with Vitis labrusca of North
America), of which the best
known, oldest and
most abundant is
Lambrusco di Sorbara. Many of the best come from
vineyards
Most Lambruscos are still produced by
communal farmers, but
there are some well-established and young artisanal
newcomers who have
continually improved the wines. Among the finer
producers are Cavicchioli,
Paltrinieri, Venturini Baldini, Terrevive and,
possibly the best known and
exported to the U.S., Cleto Chiarli, which was
founded only in 2003 (though the
parent winery goes back to 1860) by
fourth generation family scions Mauro and Anselmo
Chiarli. Located on 300 acres
in Grasparossa (whose name is also one of the
Lambrusco varieties), they
produce 90,000 bottles in different styles crafted
by winemaker Filippo
Mattioli, using the Charmat method to give the wine
its frizzante
bubbles and clarity. The wines are very refreshing.
All have a DOC appellation.
Lambrusco del
Fondatore ($22) evokes
the quaffable style poured at the
family’s 19th century trattoria, made
in the ancestral
method by which the wine is bottled half-fermented
and allowed to finish
fermentation in the bottle, which traps the carbon
dioxide that creates the fizz.
It is now made from 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara grapes
and, interestingly, not
disgorged or filtered, so that the natural sediment
remains in the bottle. It
spends two months on the lees under cold
fermentation. The wine gives you a
true sense of that ancient style and goes well with
simple, hearty pastas and
stews. Its alcohol is 11.5%.
“Centenario”
Lambrusco di Modena Amabile ($16). The term “amabile”
means lovable in
Italian, and refers to a wine slightly sweeter abbocato.
It is made from
the thick-skinned Lambrusco di
Grasparossa, whose high acid
keeps the wine balanced and avoids its being
cloyingly sweet from its 48
grams/liter residual sugar. Aged only one to two
weeks, it’s a simple Lambrusco
but a good example of what a semi-dry (or
semi-sweet) style should be like.
Terrific match with pizza. ❖❖❖
NAHATÉ, a restaurant
cocktail bar, night club and private membership
club located in the DIFC podium level in Dubai,
broke the world record for the most expensive
cocktail in the world at €37,500
($41,160USD),
which was auctioned off.The drink was
made by Salvatore
Calabrese with Patron tequila. special
edition and served in one of the rarest 1937 Baccarat crystal
glasses ever crafted (there are only two in
existence), which the highest bidder took home. The
winning bidder took home the rare tequila blend and
the exquisite 1937 Baccarat crystal. ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
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