MARIANI’S

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     June 29, 2025                                                                                                          NEWSLETTER

 


Founded in 1996 

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Marlon Brando in "The Godfather II" (1974)

        

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THIS WEEK


TRAVELING TO EUROPE THIS YEAR?
 HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

By John Mariani


NEW YORK CORNER
SAN MATTEO
PIZZERIA E CUCINA

By John Mariani


HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
CHAPTER  SEVENTEEN

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
Lambruscos Deserve More Respect

By John Mariani



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TRAVELING TO EUROPE THIS YEAR?
HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

                                                                            By John Mariani



 

    Even if you  manage to push your way through the crowds of tourists in Barcelona and Mallorca this year on vacation, you may now find yourself spritzed by a local with a water gun who wished you’d stay home.
    Because of a shortage of resident apartments, Barcelona’s municipal government will eliminate 10,000 short-term B&B rental licenses by 2028. And in many European capitals locals are carrying signs reading “TOURISTS GO HOME.” In Japan, where tourism records are being broken because of a weak yen, Kyoto banned tourists from entering certain streets, and in Paris the Louis Vuitton store on the Champs Elysée has a line outside  (right) that stretches down the block, and Asians are only allowed to buy a single one of their most popular bags.

         The growing antagonism towards tourists is in the face of still-growing travel––the World Travel & Tourism Council projected that this year 142 countries out of 185 will set records, especially to Europe, spending $11.1 trillion and accounting for 330 million jobs.

         So why the complaints? It’s simply a story of locals being overwhelmed  by foreigners who stifle the local way of life, cause lines to get into major museums as long as at Disneyworld, cause unbearable traffic jams, inhabit converted apartments where residents once lived and utterly change the true ambience of a city like Venice (left), which has now become little more than a theme park of singing gondoliers, souvenir shops and pizza parlors.

         Up until recently, once less-trammeled cities like Lisbon, Milan, Valencia and Reykjavik were sensible alternatives,  but now, they, too, are engorged with foreign travelers. But now, even Iceland, with a population of less than 400,000, is on target to get 2.5 million tourists in 2026, and more than two-thirds of its Airbnb’s were once long-term apartments.  

         I have visited Europe four times in the last eight months––Spain, Austria, Italy and Croatia––and one thing I did not find was any anti-American attitude, though anti-Trump feelings  run high. So, if you get squirted  with water in  Barcelona (it will cool you off this summer), it’s not because you’re from the U.S. but only because you and millions of others from around the world are upsetting the locals’ tolerance for crowds, noise and discomfort.

         If you do plan to visit Europe this summer here are some considerations to keep in mind:

 

● If you’ve never been to Europe’s major cities, by all means go, but expect crowds and high prices for hotels and BnBs. Check the on-line sites like Trivago, Expedia and Travelocity for places within your price range. If you do go to Rome, Paris, Madrid and Athens, August is the month their populations take their own vacations, so crowds will not be so bad. Be aware that all the Mediterranean countries will be very hot, and waiting on lines can be daunting.


● If you’ve already visited major cities, stay away from them now. Rent a car or take advantage of Europe’s superb train service to travel from small city to city at your leisure. In my last trip to Italy I drove up the Adriatic coast through Puglia and Abruzzo stopping in wonderful cities  and charming small towns like Bari, Lecce, Vasto (left), Sulmona, Scanno and others whose tourist numbers are nothing close to those of major cities, and each has its own distinctive charms.


● You may or may not need it, but obtain an international driver’s license from AAA  for about $20 before leaving the U.S. Some rental car agencies  will not rent to you without one; most will but they caution that if you are stopped by the police they will ask for one.


Always make reservations for hotels and restaurants, even in smaller cities and especially on weekends when the locals flock to their favorite tavernas, trattorias and rathskellers, as well as country inns and resorts.


● The regions outside of the major cities usually offer different cuisines you should definitely try, like the Alsatian cooking of Strasbourg (right), the Provençal food of Nice, the Dalmatian specialties of Dubrovnik and the Austrian fare in Graz. The food of Sicily is as different from the food of Tuscany as Boston’s seafood is from San Francisco’s.


● I am happy to report that, generally speaking––Venice, Zurich and London excepted––restaurants prices are still amazingly low, even though the US dollar is struggling against the euro. It is still easy to find a terrific fettuccine al pesto in Liguria for $12 to $15, and you can hop from tapas bar (below) to tapas bar in San Sebastián, Spain, for three or four bucks per item. Fish is often priced by the grams, and many dishes, like turbot or suckling pig are priced for two or more people.


● Wine and beer is not marked up in most European countries as much as in the U.S., especially if you drink French wine in France and Italian wine in Italy. And although it was once risky to order the house wine (vino della casa in Italian), today you can always be assured that it will be a good, usually local, red or white, sold by the glass or sometimes in a carafe. Rarely do such wines cost more than $20.


● Yet again must I address tipping in Europe: In Italy, Portugal, Spain, France, Germany, Greece and others––tips are not expected at restaurants because a service charge is already included in the bill (servis compris in French). If, as an American, you still feel guilty, leave five or ten percent of the bill, never more. In the UK one does not tip at apub, and, increasingly restaurant bills include a 12% service charge. If not, you might want to tip that amount. You can round off your taxi cab bill as a gesture.


● Airlines are telling the truth when they advise you get to the airport three hours before your flight, especially if you’re flying economy. The sheer size and Piranesian maze of major airports these days makes for long lines at the counter, security, passport control and gate. Getting into a foreign country for a non-EU citizen can also be daunting, but getting back to the U.S. has now become pretty easy if you’ve got Global Entry membership though the on-line
U.S. Customs and Border Control Protection site.

 

 







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NEW YORK CORNER

SAN MATTEO
PIZZERIA E CUCINA

1559 Second Avenue

212-861-2434


By John Mariani




Pizza and Panuozzi

 

         I have refrained from getting into the food media’s  never-ending harangues over the best pizzas in any city because they have as much credibility as descriptions of twenty different brands of chinos.

         If, however, there are first-rate pizzas to be found within a restaurant that is also serving excellent Italian food across the board, I’m happy to heap praise on both. Remarkably, a ten-year-old trattoria on New York’s upper east side named San Matteo Pizzeria e Cucina has evolved so that it probably should switch its name  to San Matteo Cucina e Pizzeria, for the Italian food, from antipasti through main courses is among the most robust and delicious in the city, thanks to Fabio and Ciro Casella, whose bonafides begin in their native Salerno. Moving to New York in 1999, Fabio worked at the fabled Dean & DeLuca and Mike’s Deli of Arthur Avenue before striking out on his own with his brother to open San Matteo Pizza & Espresso Bar in 2010 on 90th and Second Avenue, then the current restaurant on 81st in 2015 (with another on East 89th Street).

         Back then the siblings helped revive an interest in southern Italian food, particularly Neapolitan, including the puffy crusted, soft-centered pizzas invented in that city, which transcended the thin-crusted anomalies that ruled for years. To get right to the point, yes, San Matteo’s pizzas are  as close to those of Naples as you’ll find in New York––with a yeasty, flavorful crust with real chew, charred bubbles and toppings that make sense, from a classic Margherita to a Paesana with tomato sauce, housemade mozzarella, eggplant cubes and basil and Cetara with tomato sauce, mozzarella, capers, oregano, black olives, Sicilian anchovies, garlic and basil. They also make wonderful calzones and  panuozzi,  a specialty of Salerno, made with baked pizza dough, sliced and stuffed with a variety of ingredients including roast porchetta, mortadella, prosciutto, broccoli di rabe,   buffalo mozzarella, marinated eggplant, arugula and roasted peppers.

Were you able to resist ordering a pizza as a first course, I highly recommend the luscious, cream-centered burrata and prosciutto or the crocche di patate––potato croquettes of a kind that used to be on so many Italian restaurants, now here revived, with a crispy fried crust and velvety interior. The eggplant parmigiana oozes with cheese and soft vegetable.

         Of course the potato gnocchi alla sorrentina are housemade, of the right, tender texture and cuddled in a tomato and eggplant sauce, while other options include tagliatelle with mushrooms, spaghetti cooked in a pouch and rigatoni with a convincing bolognese sauce rich and complex with vegetables and meat.

         Main courses revert to traditional fare like chicken parmigiana (another dish now back in favor everywhere),  but Fabio recommended a tomahawk steak, which I could see dry aging in the restaurant’s refrigerated cabinet. I’m always hesitant about the bravura show of the naked rib at the end of a massive sirloin, but the meat, perfectly charred and cooked medium-rare, was some of the best beef I’ve eaten in ages, at a time when high-end steakhouses all (falsely or otherwise) promise dry-aged USDA Prime with very little marbling or flavor. This tomahawk specimen had a  minerality, a sanguine sweetness and a rich fat content that I recall from the days when the Prime grade  really meant something. The steak is huge and four of us––albeit after pizza and pasta––managed to consume only about half the thick, rosy slices; the rest came home.

         For dessert there’s a generous tiramisù, but even better is the cream-centered lemon cake.

         San Matteo has a modest wine list fit for a trattoria, with plenty of bottles under $100.

         There’s not much to say about the décor, which more resembles the average pizzeria than a stylish trattoria. Try to get one of the two tables by the window overlooking the avenue.

         The Casellas have done well with two New York units of San Matteo, and this year will be selling their pizzas  at the upcoming U.S. Open. Plans are in the works for a gelateria in the neighborhood and maybe San Matteos in other cities.  I  really hope they don’t expand too much or too quickly. Food this good takes very careful monitoring, and there are only two Casellas to make sure. But for now, San Matteo has given the upper east side the kind of Italian food so often copied and raved about downtown and in Brooklyn of a kind that  go on and off those endless lists. San Matteo should be around for a very long time.   

 


Open daily for lunch and dinner.

 










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HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
 
By  John Mariani






CHAPTER  SEVENTEEN

         Katie called Catherine and told her their plans to fly to Marseilles, asking if she’d like to go along. Catherine said there was no way for her to leave Paris because the spring fashion shows were coming up the following week and she’d be busy covering them for CNN. Catherine said she’d keep Katie posted on any news about the hotel crimes.
         David meanwhile asked Borel for any contact he might have in Marseilles, and he also called an old colleague on NYPD who had worked on cases that involved the Marseilles Mob, which was referred to as Le Milieu and even les beaux voyous, which meant “good fellows.” In fact, David’s friend, who was named Teddy Ryan, had worked on the so-called French Connection case that was the basis of the movie of the same name.  Arrests in that case had decimated the Marseilles mob, which was now more or less controlled by the Unione Corse, or Northern Corsican union and the Brise de Mer, also Corsican.        
    
Armed with contacts from both Borel du Boss and Ryan, David and Katie packed, checked out of their hotel and took the one-hour flight out of Orly that got them into Marseilles that afternoon. On the plane they read about the city, about Prado Beach and the yacht basin and streets named after fish, like Sar’din, and about the city’s signature seafood stew, bouillabaisse, served in every restaurant near the port.
         They pre-booked rooms at Hôtel Saint-Ferréol on Rue Pisançon near the Old Port, which they walked around for a couple of hours before dinner at Michel on the Rue des Catalans. They, of course, ordered the bouillabaisse, marveling at the depth of the seafood soup and its garlic-rich mayonnaise and the perfume of fennel and saffron, along with a bottle of flowery Provençal rosé wine.
         “Wish we could stay here carefree for a couple more days,” said Katie.
         “It’s a great-looking city,” said David. “I’d love to come back here someday. Maybe do some fishing.”
         “I didn’t know you liked fishing.”
         “Loved it since I was a kid. My father used to take me to fish along the Long Island Sound. I’ll always remember the old men throwing their lines over the City Island Bridge. They’d be there hour after hour, maybe catching sunnies. Sometimes we’d rent a row boat and go out into the Sound to catch bluefish when they were running. Not much to fish for in the Hudson River yet, though the river’s coming back to life. I think I could be happy here for a few weeks or months a year. Did you ever go fishing, Katie?”
         “We took a house in Stony Brook for a couple of summers, but I was pretty young. I don’t think we ever went fishing. It wasn’t something my father had time for. But I think I could live in Marseilles for a while.”
         “How about we set up a detective agency here?” asked David. Our last names would fit right in: Cavuto and Greco, private eyes for hire.”
         “Or establish an English-language newspaper. We could call it the Shoestring Gazette and you could write a column on fishing.”
         “You’re forgetting, I’m not a writer.”
         “Minor detail at the moment. Hey, did you know that the actor Louis Jourdan (below) was born in Marseilles?”
         “The rich guy in Gigi? Pretty suave actor.”
         “Kind of a pretty boy and he couldn’t really sing,” said Katie, “but it was a great musical.”
         They then began to discuss the next day’s activity. David had spoken to Borel’s contact in Marseilles, whose name was Philippe Iacomino, who worked for the Central Directorate of the Judicial Police that handled mob crimes, and he had long acquaintance with the workings of the various gangs and would know more about individuals than there was in the official records.
         There was fog in the port the next morning, and by six David was watching some of the fishing boats leaving for the day’s catch, keeping their horn-blowing to a minimum out of courtesy to the town’s sleeping populace. He went down for coffee and brioche in the lobby, then strolled along the harbor, returning to find Katie having her breakfast.
         “We’re so close to Italy I thought I’d have a cappuccino,” she said. “It’s really good after all that French coffee in Paris. So where are we meeting Iacomino?”
         David put on his reading glasses and said, “The concierge said his office was just a ten-minute walk.”
         “So, let’s take a leisurely stroll,” said Katie, collecting her things and taking David’s arm.
         They showed up early at the police headquarters and Detective Iacomino came out to meet them. David thought he looked exactly the way he thought a cop on the French Riviera should look: Stocky, in his fifties, with a salt-and-pepper goatee and thick eyebrows, his white shirt was clean, his tie askew, his trousers a bit shiny. He asked the Americans if they wanted coffee.
         “So, you know mon ami Michel, eh?,” he said, bringing them into his small office, which he shared with another detective. “He said you worked with him a couple of times? Michel is a good man, but he’s stuck in that damn Paris bureaucracy. Down here, they say we take too long to get anything done, but up there they waste too much time going through—what do you call it?—‘red tape?’ They get nothing done. We get a little done. How does that go in New York, Monsieur?”
         “Oh, there’s plenty of red tape,” said David, “but somehow some things get done. It depends a lot on who’s the mayor of New York.”
         “Ah, politicians. They’re all corrupt, every one of them down here. And I tell you the truth, mes amis, a lot of the cops are, too. The mob is not as strong as they used to be, but they still have their teeth in the politicians.”
         “Michel said you were as honest as they come,” said David.
         Iacomino laughed and said, “Ah, oui, as honest as they come, meaning maybe I am more honest than most, eh? Anyway, you want to talk about this guy Marciano because he left a glove under a bed in a hotel?”
         “Well, the bed was in one of the hotels that got hit with the virus,” said Katie, “and Marciano had checked in that afternoon and seems to have left that same night.”
         Iacomino shook his head this way and that and said, “Not much to go on, eh? You came all the way to Marseilles for that? Your magazine pay for all this?”
         “No,” said Katie, “David and I are here on our own. We’re on vacation but doing a bit of snooping.”
         Iacovino didn’t know whether Katie and David were romantically involved, but if they were, he thought David a very lucky man. He said nothing.
         Alors, let me give you a quick lecture on the state of the Marseilles mob at the moment—and it’s always changing, one group kills a member of another group, the other group retaliates, then we have peace for a while, then it happens all over again. At the moment things are peaceful. But just a year ago some members of the Corsican gang called Brise de Mer (right) escaped from prison by sending fake faxes from a judge ordering their release. I’m pretty sure the judge knew all about it, but we were told not to look too closely. Then Brise de Mer pretty much eliminated its rival, the Armata Corsa.”
         “By killing them off?” asked Katie.
         “Pretty much. They kill a few, the rest run away. They’ll be back in a year or two.”
         “So, is Marciano involved with any of the mobs?”
         “Marciano is what you call a low-life who owns three garages and mechanic shops. He also owns a couple of pizzerias around the port. Our files on him consist of one sheet of paper. We’ve never been able to arrest him for any major crimes, but we know he helps the mob steal expensive cars on the Riviera and has them shipped to South America and the Middle East, where they will pay anything for them. He probably helps the mobs to hide cocaine in cars to be shipped out of the country. His shops are right on the port, so, the cars come in, swish, swish, overnight they get loaded on the ships and they’re gone the next morning.”
         “Ever look in the rocker panels for drugs?” asked David.
         “The rocker panels? What is this?”
         “I’m sure you saw the movie The French Connection”—Iacovino rolled his eyes—“and the cops get a car they know is dirty but can’t find any drugs anywhere in it.”
         “Ah!” said Iacovino, slapping his forehead, “The rocker panels along the bottom of the car door! Oui, they pry it open and the cocaine is inside. I forget. No, I don’t think we’ve been looking in the rocker panels. I don’t even know if cars have them anymore.”
         “Anyway,” said David, “you don’t think Marciano’s one of the mob?”
        

        “Oh, I’m sure he is, but he’s not one of the big guys.”
         “So, it’s not likely the mob would hire him to commit the hotel crimes?” asked Katie.
          “No, he might, because he’s not the kind of smart guy who could mastermind such a crime all on his own. Where would he get the virus? A lot of crazy things go on in Marseilles but I don’t think anyone’s selling vials of virus.”
         “What if an outside nation wanted the mob to do such a job for them?” asked Katie, then told Iacovino about what she called “The Russian Connection.”
         Oui, it’s possible. If the Russians hired the mob—and there are Russians crawling all over the Riviera—they might set it all up and just ask the mob to choose a guy like Iacovino to deliver the virus. But there were three hotels, oui? Three different perpetrators?”
         “It seems likely,” said David. “But Marciano is the only one we have any kind of lead on at all.”
         “One plastic glove, eh? I don’t think we can arrest him for that.”
         “Can you  bring him in on suspicion, ask him what he was doing in Paris?”
         Iacovino looked at David as if he was a little naïve. “Mon ami, if I brought in everyone if Marseilles who went to Paris for any of a thousand reasons, I’d have to bring in the whole populace. Michel would have a better chance of rounding up everyone who stayed at all three hotels in Paris.”
         “But you don’t mind us talking to Marciano ourselves?”
         Iacovino puffed on his lower lip and said, “It’s still a free country, more or less. You want his address? Let me know what you find. I’m here if you need me.”
         Katie and David thanked the detective for his help and left the headquarters to discuss a plan to interview Marciano.
         “Can you tell him you’re working on a story about the renovation of the Marseilles waterfront?” asked David.
         “Not unless I’m working undercover,” said Katie, “just the way you couldn’t tell a suspect you want to speak to him about the New York waterfront unless you really were. Rules of the game prevent me from doing that. I’d need approval from Alan.”
         “Well, we can’t exactly go up to him and ask him if he committed the crime in Paris.”
         “Maybe we can work around him. Speak to people in the neighborhood? Maybe Iacovino can put us in touch with some friendly mobster?”
         “You mean one who will tell us that Marciano does jobs for the mob? That I doubt. But, listen, Katie, I’m not working for McClure’s here and I’m not a cop over here, so let me bend the rules a little.”
         “Well, then, let’s just go over nice and innocently and ask him some auto mechanic questions and see where it leads.”







©
John Mariani, 2024



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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


                                    Italy’s Lambrusco Wines Deserve More Respect
                                        Than the Sweet Fizzy Pink Stuff of the Past

 

 

         If the name Lambrusco means anything to most Americans it is probably because at some point they tried and even enjoyed Riunite, a pink, fizzy, sweet alternative to Kool-Aid for adults with the tag line, “Reunite on ice, that’s nice!” (I’m surprised they didn’t Italianize it with “atsa nice!) A jug of it still sells for $14. Back in the 1970s it was a wine crafted to compete with other sweet wines like Portugal’s Mateus and Spanish sangria, loved precisely because they were sweet and could be splashed over ice.

         Unfortunately Riunite’s popularity was so great that wine lovers assumed all Lambruscos were of the same kind. Yet in Emilia-Romagna, where Lambrusco is made, that is far from the truth. In fact, the authoritative Native Wine Grapes of Italy by Ian d’Agata devotes eight double-column pages to the wine, writing, “The Lambrusco family of grapes and wines could do with better public relations, as their image is tarnished in most fine wine drinking circles; fairly enough too, as these varieties are behind a collection of not very distinguished wines.” He also quotes Italian chef Lidia Bastianich as saying, “Lambruscos have been misrepresented by industrial versions that have the soda pop flavors they think Americans might want.”

         I myself felt that way, too, until I traveled through Emila-Romagna and ate at its fine restaurants in Bologna, Parma, Modena and others where I found splendid examples of dry Lambrusco––with a slight fizz––that went with rich dishes like lasagne verde, tagliatelle ala bolognese and bollito misto.

         There are at least eight varieties of Lambrusco grapes (not to be confused with Vitis labrusca of North America), of which the best known, oldest  and most abundant is Lambrusco di Sorbara. Many of the best come from vineyards around Modena. The finer examples have a taste of strawberry and an aroma of violets. They tend to be fairly light wines and the acid cuts through the richness of foods. They are also very pleasant as an apéritif with Emilia-Romagna products like Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
            (By the way, June 21st  was National Lambrusco Day.)

         Most Lambruscos are still produced by communal farmers, but there are some well-established and young artisanal newcomers who have continually improved the wines. Among the finer producers are Cavicchioli, Paltrinieri, Venturini Baldini, Terrevive and, possibly the best known and exported to the U.S., Cleto Chiarli, which was founded only in 2003 (though the parent winery goes back to 1860)  by fourth generation family scions Mauro and Anselmo Chiarli. Located on 300 acres in Grasparossa (whose name is also one of the Lambrusco varieties), they produce 90,000 bottles in different styles crafted by winemaker Filippo Mattioli, using the Charmat method to give the wine its frizzante bubbles and clarity. The wines are very refreshing. All have a DOC appellation.

       


Cleto Chiarli's best known Lambrusco is Vecchia Modena Premium Brut ($19)  dates back to 1882 and its introduction in 1900 to the World Expo in Paris in 1900, re-introduced in 2002, made from  100% Lambrusco di Sorbara grown in alluvial loam soil. Aged for two months, it is a lovely rose color, with a light 11% alcohol, and ideal with roast veal, grilled chicken and cheeses.

 

 

Lambrusco del Fondatore ($22) evokes the quaffable style poured at the family’s 19th century trattoria, made in the ancestral method by which the wine is bottled half-fermented and allowed to finish fermentation in the bottle, which traps the carbon dioxide that creates the fizz. It is now made from 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara grapes and, interestingly, not disgorged or filtered, so that the natural sediment remains in the bottle. It spends two months on the lees under cold fermentation. The wine gives you a true sense of that ancient style and goes well with simple, hearty pastas and stews. Its alcohol is 11.5%.

 

 

 






“Organic” Lambrusco di Modena
($17). As of 2016 , with other growing partners within the Cantina Sociale di Settecani from the Castelvetro area, Cleto Chiarli worked with  Grasparossa grapes with integrated pest control systems  from soils composed of loam, alluvial sediment and gravel and vines nine years old. The grapes were macerated for four to five days using the must from gravity pressing, then treated to cold clarification and stabilization, with no second fermentation, spending one month in bottle to emerge at 11% alcohol.

 

 

“Centenario” Lambrusco di Modena Amabile ($16). The term “amabile” means lovable in Italian, and refers to a wine slightly sweeter abbocato. It is made from the thick-skinned Lambrusco di Grasparossa, whose high acid keeps the wine balanced and avoids its being cloyingly sweet from its 48 grams/liter residual sugar. Aged only one to two weeks, it’s a simple Lambrusco but a good example of what a semi-dry (or semi-sweet) style should be like. Terrific match with pizza.

 














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DEPT. OF WRETCHED EXCESS


NAHATÉ, a restaurant  cocktail bar, night club and private membership club located in the DIFC podium level in Dubai, broke the world record for the most expensive cocktail in the world at €37,500 ($41,160USD), which was auctioned off.The drink was made  by Salvatore Calabrese with Patron tequila. special edition and served in one of the rarest 1937 Baccarat crystal glasses ever crafted (there are only two in existence), which the highest bidder took home. The winning bidder took home the rare tequila blend and the exquisite 1937 Baccarat crystal.














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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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