MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet


 

July 20, 2025                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 NEWSLETTER

 



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Jack Nicholson and Diane Keaton in "Something's Gotta Give" (2003)


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THIS WEEK
MODERN MADRID,
Part One

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
CÓMODO

By John Mariani


HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
CHAPTER  TWENTY

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
PROVENCE

By John Mariani



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MODERN MADRID

By John Mariani

 

    


    As I write this, Madrid is sweltering, but when I visited this spring the weather was ideal, as it will be again in the fall. All the more reason to visit this great capital city in  those seasons, especially since all the massive construction work in its center has finally been accomplished, opening up the avenues, so that Madrid is more beautiful and scrubbed cleaner than ever. Its position as one of Europe’s cultural capitals has been assured since the 1990s, with museums and artistic events expanded well beyond the great Prado and Thyssen museums, boosted by its industrial sector but increasingly dominated by a strong service sector. On my trip I “discovered” the Bellas Artes de San Fernando, a large collection that includes 13 Goyas (left) and a vast number of his etchings and plates for "Los Caprichos." Other recently enhanced institutions include the Palacio de Linares, seat of the Casa de América; the Muséo Arqueologico Naçional; and the Muséo Naçional del Romanticismo.
    Today Madrid’s stock market is the third largest in Europe and the city is ranked fifth most important leading Centre of Commerce after London, Paris, Frankfurt and Amsterdam.
    As a result, like Barcelona, Madrid has become a very expensive city to live in,  and tourists, with 11.2 million visitors last year, gobbled up the BnBs that were once apartments and spent more than 16 billion euros, with Americans leading the invasion.   
    
Responding to this increasingly affluent market, major luxury hotel groups have been popping up on or off the main avenues to compete with longstanding institutions like The Ritz, Gran Hotel Ingles and  The Palace, now joined by the thoroughly modern JW Marriott  Madrid (above; Sevilla 2), a block from the main avenue, Calle Alcalá, with 139 rooms, most with private balconies.  Rates are considerably below other deluxe properties like The Four Seasons up the block.
    My room was quite spacious, very quiet––Madrid is not a raucously loud city––with a balcony set with chairs and small table, a king-size bed and very well equipped modern bath. The expansive lobby has a separate area for the concierge’s desk.
    There are now several hotels in Madrid that have first-rate restaurants rooms, and the JW Marriott’s Qú by Mario Sandoval joins them with an à la carte dining room focusing on local products (Madrid has splendid markets from which to choose the best provender and meats). Sandoval is head  of the Croque Group and comes from three generations of chefs. In 2013 he won the Spanish National Gastronomy Award, and his primary restaurant, Croque, has garnered two Michelin stars.
    Q is a simpler, more casual affair, with a smart décor and lounge, antique pillars, tall mirrors and star-like hanging lights.   
    I had been eating a fair amount of Spanish ham on my trip, but only Q was offering  Cinco Jotas Jamon Ibérico de bellota 5J, which is considered the finest in Spain, founded in Jabugo in 1879,  using only an ancient breed of acorn-fed black pigs (most producers use crossbreeds), and it has a sweet flavor and a satiny sheen of white fat. My friend and I also shared some cod fritters with aji amarillo mayonnaise and a plate of softly grilled artichokes. 

    Lubina
is a sea bass grilled à la  bilbaina, with its characteristic, bold garlic and chile oil. For dessert there was a millefoglie of pineapple and cream with ginger ice cream; some perfect springtime strawberries slightly pickled and served with a rich vanilla mascarpone and both strawberry and mint ice creams; and a chocolate, liquid center coolant with pistachio and violet ice  cream,  finishing off with glasses of Sherry.
    Afterwards, at about ten o’clock I took a stroll down the Avenida, which was teeming with young people returning from a huge Netflix kick-off party in Retiro Park  buoyed as much by the music as by the moonlight over Madrid.

    In my next report on the city I’ll recommend  more restaurants.  

 

 


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NEW YORK CORNER


CÓMODO
Freehand Hotel
23 Lexington Avenue
212-475-1924

By John Mariani


Moqueca

 

 

    Felipe Donnelly  and his wife Tamy Rofe have worked together for a long time now, at both Colonia Verde in Brooklyn and Comparti, and right now at Cómodo they are turning out their most ambitious work, combining Latino  and American cuisines within a comfort zone of very hearty, deeply flavorful dishes  that obviously come from the heart.

   

They do so within a most charming, comfortable and warm dining room of a kind whose use of wood, soft lighting, covered tables with lamps, flowers and works by Colombian artists Luisa Castellanos, Valentina Petalosi, Gogy Farías  very much reminds me of similar restaurants in South America. The crowd is not loud, and the midweek night I was there the music was played softly.

            


Donnelly, himself Colombian, is the co-owner and Executive Chef of Cómodo, who, after moving to the U.S. actually worked in advertising for over a decade while practicing his love of cooking. In 2010, he and Tamy hosted a series of supper clubs at their apartment, and they decided to do it full time, opening the original Cómodo (now closed) in the SoHo neighborhood in 2012 and Disco Tacos, a food truck-turned-restaurant.       

    The menu is a very sensible size, which makes it all the more difficult to ignore a single item. We began with sea bream ceviche, simply dressed with lime juice, ricotta and olive oil. Among the many tuna tartares I’ve had this year, Donnelly’s is one of the best, spiked with habanero ash aïoli, refreshing watermelon, the scent of mint, sesame oil, and a tostada. Wild mushroom tacos (below) were smartly pickled, again with a hit of habanero ash and the addition of Oaxaca cheese.

    I love Brazilian pão de quejo––the puffy, stretchy buns made with tapioca flour––and they serve them at Cómodo, though they were too dense and chewy.

    Moqueca is also of Brazilian origin, usually made with seafood, here with rich  butternut squash coconut milk, crunchy wheatberries, pickled peppers and steamy white rice––a delicious melding of many flavors in perfect harmony. Golden tile fish (below) also takes splendidly to a coconut lime sauce with the great idea of plantain puree, and shorts ribs had plenty of rocoto peppers, sweet onions, peewee potatoes, tomatoes and white rice, to be enjoyed by more than one person.

    The idea of poblano pepper rigatoni with a vegetarian bolognese would have been better had it had more punch to the peppers and seasoning.

    The menu also offers two beef dishes: A Colombian picanha like steak frites, and a bone-in ribeye with potatoes and cilantro-scented aïoli.

    This is rich food but please have a dessert at Cómodo, either the profiteroles with chocolate topping or the raspberry sorbet dashed with ruby Port.

    Cómodo is such a comfortable and civilized restaurant without any pretensions, so it’s easy enough to like for those virtues, but the real draw is the out-of-the-ordinary, heart-felt cooking here you will crave again and again.

 

Starters run $10-$18, main courses $18-$78.

 

 

Open nightly for lunch Mon.-Fri.; dinner nightly; brunch Sat. & Sun.

 

 

 

 



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HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
 
By  John Mariani






CHAPTER  TWENTY

        “So, where’s the car?” asked David.
         “It’s coming. I have a man driving it over," said Marciano. "He should be here in a minute. Sit down. You want a beer?”
         The Americans refused the offer.
         “So, what kind of car is it and what’s the price?” asked David.
         With that, Marciano pressed a button to lower the garage door shut. David instinctively looked for another open exit. The room led only to the office towards the front.
         “First, we talk a little, okay?” said Marciano. “I was wondering, a lot, about why you want this car. You see, I deal with a lot of very rich clients and none of them look like you. Plus, they would never just drop by to rent a car. They’d send someone to make a deal. Such people don’t come here to talk to a mechanic.”
         “We’re not that kind of rich, Monsieur,” said Katie. “This vacation is our big splurge, and we just thought it would be fun for a few days to drive to Paris in a great car. That’s all.”
         “And who told you to come here to see me?”
         David said, “The concierge at the hotel.”
         “The concierge at the hotel says he knows me and knows I rent out fancy cars?  I do not believe you, Monsieur.”
         There was silence for a few moments, then David said, “You know what, Monsieur, if you have a car, let’s see it; if you don’t want to rent us a car, fine. As a matter of fact, I think we’ll just pass on the deal, okay? We are out of here. Please open the door.”
         David realized there never was a car coming and that he and Katie had to leave as quickly as possible. Then, from the office came a large man in his thirties, maybe 220 pounds, wearing jeans and a windbreaker.
\         “Who’s this?” David asked, looking back and forth between Marciano and the new man.
         “My associate,” said Marciano. “He’s the one who is going to go with you on, shall we say, a test drive. You drive, he sits in the back, oui?”
         David almost spat, saying, “No way.”
         Marciano came close to David’s face, laughed, then went over to Katie and grabbed her from behind. The other man picked up a crowbar hung on the wall.
         “Get your goddamn hands off her!” shouted David.
        Marciano tightened his grip on Katie’s arms. “You said you wanted to drive a fancy car to Paris, well, my friend here won’t take you that far, I’m afraid.”
    “What’s this all about?”
    “It is about you asking too many of the wrong questions yesterday. I knew when you walked in you had no interest in renting a car you could have gotten at Avis with two days’ notice.  Then you started this bullshit asking me about hotels in Paris, like I’m some travel agent. This was not good, mes amis, not good at all.”
    Then, nodding to the other man to get closer to David, Marciano said, “Who the fuck are you two? You’re not the French police. You’re even too stupid for that.”
    “No,” said David, “we’re not the French police, we’re just American tourists—”
    “Stop the bullshit, Monsieur. I already know who you are.”
    He told the man with the crowbar to get David’s wallet and passport and Katie’s handbag. The man took out their passports and showed them to Marciano, who quickly looked at the photo and ID pages then put them into his pocket.
    “I have many friends in Marseille, even some among the police. Did Iacovino tell you I sometime give him information about things that go on in this city?”
    “Something tells me everybody gives information to the police in this city,” said David.
    “You may be right. We love to gossip. As long as you know who to believe, some of it is useful.”
    “You saying Iacovino gave you information about us?”
    “Even if he did, I would be stupid to tell you, eh? Not that it matters now. You won’t be seeing any more of him.”
    The other man was now wagging the crowbar in front of David’s face and said, “You go with me. Now.”
    “Think again,” said David and rammed his knee into the man’s groin then wrenched his arm to his back, breaking away the crowbar from his hand. Marciano then grabbed a screwdriver from the workbench and stuck it into Katie’s neck.
    “I don’t care how you two die,” he shouted at David, “but it will be a lot less painful if you do what I say. Or I could just kill your girlfriend right now.”   
    The other man was still doubled over in pain from David’s knee kick and David held the crowbar’s claws at the man’s neck.  Marciano sensed that David would not slit the  throat of his accomplice and pushed the screwdriver deeper into Katie’s skin.
    “I give you five seconds to let him go,” said Marciano. “Otherwise, it doesn’t matter to me how she dies, then we see if you are next or not.”
    Marciano began a slow count. David’s mind was racing, when, at the count of three, two figures burst from the office while three others stood outside the garage with weapons aimed at Marciano.  The team was led by Iacovino, who shouted at Marciano to let the girl go and get down on the floor. Marciano had no choice. He dropped the screwdriver, pushed Katie forward and got down on his knees. The other man crumbled to the floor, still sick to his stomach. David let the crow bar drop on the floor. Katie ran to David and held onto his arm.
    “Thank God you’re here, Iacovino.”
    “I told you that you would not be safe after what you told me about Marciano. We’ve been doing surveillance on him since you got here, David. So, you see, we did take your—what do you call it? a hunch?—seriously.”
    “And use us as bait?” said Katie, rubbing her neck, which showed a mark of blood.
    “Madame, we have had our eyes on you from the beginning. There was no real danger.”
    David laughed and said, “This asshole was down to three when you burst in!”       
    “Two more to go after that,” said Iacovino. “I doubt he would have murdered Madame in cold blood. It would have interrupted his plans.”
    “Yeah, I’m sure that made him real disappointed.”
    “Alors, now we have him on attempted murder, maybe kidnapping. I’m sure he’ll want to talk about what he was doing in Paris in order to make a deal with the court.”   
    As grateful as Katie and David were about the last-second rescue, they thought Iacovino had cut their time way too short.
    “Our man outside the garage had his rifle aimed right at Marciano’s head,” said the detective. “Pas problème.”
    By then Marciano and his man were in handcuffs and led away through the garage to a police van parked up the street. Iacovino drove the two Americans back to their hotel and they talked in the lobby.
    “So,” said Iacovino, “two down and one to go.”       
    Katie thought that sounded like the police were satisfied that their arrest of two of the perpetrators brought the case close to being closed.
    “What about finding out where the virus was obtained and who hired these guys?” asked Katie, who realized that her story now had legs if she were given the time to follow how the French police were able to track the movement of a supply of virus from a Russian laboratory to Paris. Was it one theft by one individual who gave it directly to three other individuals who did not know of each other’s existence? And who masterminded the theft and who wanted those hotels hit with the virus. Katie felt that the police had only captured two pawns but hadn’t come any closer to the king.
             Iacovino shrugged and said, “We arrested a suspect. The Paris police and Interpol will take it from here. And now I wish you a safe return to Paris.”

 

 


©
John Mariani, 2024



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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR


THE WINES OF PROVENCE
By John Mariani



Vines and Lavender Fields in  Provence

 

 

        “Interesting” is hardly high praise for the wines of any region, and too often that adjective, as well as phrases like “quite good” and “dependable,” are also applied to the wines of France’s Mediterranean region of Provence, which gets its  name from once being a province of the Roman empire.

         Tomes of 900 pages have been written about Bordeaux and Burgundy, but the authoritative Larousse Wine lumps Provence in with Corsica in less than a dozen pages, asserting “Sunshine, vacations and rosé: This is the image of Provence.” The Oxford Companion to Wine dismisses the region in less than one page, calling it “full of potential,” which is what a French school teacher jots down about an average student.

         Granted, Provence is well regarded for its rosé wines––80% of its production––and the Cȏtes de Provence, a patchwork of parcels, some cooled by the northern mountains, others scorched by the southern sun­­, has delightful wines if you can ferret them out. In recent years serious attention has been given to ripping out the traditional Carignane grapes and re-planting with more Rhone red varietals like Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

         Yet every wine lover who has spent time on the French Riviera has romantic memories of an enchanting luncheon while overlooking the sea, smelling the flowers and, inevitably,  sipping on a cold Provençal wine. Usually it’s a rosé with some body and color, rather than the pale, innocuous examples that sell for a few euros. But that’s also the good news about Provence wines: They rarely cost very much, rarely about $25, yet provide simple pleasure, not least in their tropical aromas and herbal notes.

         I’m finding that the most delightful bottlings are coming from the regions of Bandol, Bellet and Cassis. Production and expansion of vineyards has been restricted in Bandol, east of Marseille,  because it’s become so popular as a resort, with all the usual over development––it’s less than three-and-a-half miles square. Still, the Mourvèdre, which has long been planted in the area, has a fine late ripening  virtue that brings the sugar and alcohol to make for a full-bodied red. Bellet is even smaller and most of its wines is consumed in the surrounding area, but ferreting out a bottle of flinty Bourboulenc or Rolle (what the Italians call Vermentino) is worth the effort for a well-structured white wine. Cassis, increasingly encroached upon by the expansion of the city of Marseille, is tinier still, known for its white wines made from Clairette and Marsanne. (It is not to be confused with the cordial named Crème de Cassis,  which is made in Burgundy.)

 
       
A good number of Provence wines that come to the U.S. are, well, interesting, but the better producers are also fairly well represented on wine store shelves. Look for labels like Château Miraval, made with Grenache, Cinsault, Tibouren and Syrah; Guele de Loup de Roquefort, which has a component of Cabernet Sauvignon to add body; and Domaine de Trévallon, which has been compared to a good Bordeaux, with a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, aged for two years and takes to aging, so that you can still find the 2010 vintage, selling for a whopping $185.

         I have enjoyed Château Gassier ($25), founded in 1982 and all organic, for its rosé is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Rolle,  from clay and limestone soil in the Cȏtes de Provence and Cȏtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire appellations. It is fresh and very ready to drink this summer with grilled poultry and salmon.


     Sacha Lichine is Bordeaux born but he was educated and worked extensively in the U.S. before becoming a  highly regarded negociant in 1990, since purchasing Chateau d’Ésclans in  Provence. His Pale Rosé($18) is a simple but refreshing rose of Grenache, Rolle, Syrah and Cinsault.

    Château Malherbe makes rose, white and an impressive red wine ($55) from Syrah, Mourvèdre, Black Grenache made by the fourth and fifth generations of the Ferrari family and crafted by Jean Laburthe in collaboration with Burgundy’s Philippe Pacalet.

         Jean-Luc Colombo and winemaker Laure Colombo (right) make a pretty Cape Bleu Rose for only $19––one of those sip by the shore wines with a baguette and French ham and cheese.

 

 

 



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BLOCK THAT METAPHOR!

"Only the hungriest should dare the chuletas can-can, a monument of pork: rib, loin and belly, crisped and ruffled like a garter at the Moulin Rouge." —Ligaya Mishan, "The Caribbean Filtered Through One Chef's Imagination," NY Times (7/8/25). ,








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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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