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MARIANI’S Virtual
Gourmet
July 20, 2025
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() Jack
Nicholson and Diane Keaton in "Something's Gotta Give"
(2003)
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THIS WEEK MODERN MADRID, Part One By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER CÓMODO By John Mariani HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE CHAPTER TWENTY By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR PROVENCE By John Mariani ❖❖❖
MODERN
MADRID
By John Mariani
As I write this, Madrid is
sweltering, but when I visited this spring
the weather was ideal, as it will be again
in the fall. All the more reason to visit
this great capital city in those
seasons, especially since all the massive
construction work in its center has finally
been accomplished, opening up the avenues,
so that Madrid is
In my next report on the city I’ll
recommend more restaurants.
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NEW YORK CORNER CÓMODO
Freehand Hotel 23 Lexington Avenue 212-475-1924 By John Mariani ![]() Moqueca Felipe Donnelly and
his wife Tamy Rofe have worked together for a
long time now, at both Colonia Verde in
Brooklyn and Comparti, and right now at Cómodo
they are turning out their most ambitious
work, combining Latino and
American cuisines within a comfort zone of
very hearty, deeply flavorful dishes that
obviously come from the heart.
The menu is a very
sensible size, which makes it all the more
difficult to ignore a single item. We began
with sea bream ceviche, simply dressed with lime
juice, ricotta and olive oil. Among the many
tuna tartares I’ve had this year, Donnelly’s is
one of the best, spiked with habanero
ash aïoli, refreshing watermelon, the scent of
mint, sesame oil, and a tostada. Wild
mushroom tacos (below) were smartly
pickled, again with a hit of habanero ash and
the addition of Oaxaca cheese.
I love Brazilian pão de quejo––the
puffy, stretchy buns made with tapioca
flour––and they serve them at Cómodo, though
they were too dense and chewy.
The idea of poblano pepper rigatoni with a
vegetarian bolognese would have been better had
it had more punch to the peppers and seasoning.
The menu also offers two beef dishes: A
Colombian picanha like steak frites, and
a bone-in ribeye with potatoes and
cilantro-scented aïoli.
This is rich food but please have a dessert at
Cómodo, either the profiteroles with chocolate
topping or the raspberry sorbet dashed with ruby
Port.
Cómodo is such a comfortable and civilized
restaurant without any pretensions, so it’s easy
enough to like for those virtues, but the real
draw is the out-of-the-ordinary, heart-felt
cooking here you will crave again and again. Starters run
$10-$18, main courses $18-$78. Open
nightly for lunch Mon.-Fri.; dinner nightly;
brunch Sat. & Sun.
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HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE By John Mariani ![]() CHAPTER TWENTY
“So,
where’s the car?” asked David. © John Mariani, 2024 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE WINES OF PROVENCE By John Mariani ![]() Vines and Lavender Fields in Provence “Interesting” is hardly
high praise for the wines of any region, and too
often that adjective, as well as phrases like
“quite good” and “dependable,” are also applied to
the wines of France’s Mediterranean region of
Provence, which gets its name
from once being a province of the Roman empire.
Granted, Provence is well regarded for its
rosé wines––80% of its production––and the Cȏtes de
Provence, a patchwork of parcels, some cooled by the
northern mountains, others scorched by the southern
sun, has delightful wines if you can ferret them
out. In recent years serious attention has been
given to ripping out the traditional Carignane
grapes and re-planting with more Rhone red varietals
like Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
Yet every wine lover who has spent time on
the French Riviera has romantic memories of an
enchanting luncheon while overlooking the sea,
smelling the flowers and, inevitably, sipping
on a cold Provençal wine. Usually it’s a rosé with
some body and color, rather than the pale, innocuous
examples that sell for a few euros. But that’s also
the good news about Provence wines: They rarely cost
very much, rarely about $25, yet provide simple
pleasure, not least in their tropical aromas and
herbal notes.
I’m finding that the most delightful
bottlings are coming from the regions of Bandol,
Bellet and Cassis. Production and expansion of
vineyards has been restricted in Bandol, east of
Marseille, because
it’s become so popular as a resort, with all the
usual over development––it’s less than
three-and-a-half miles square. Still, the Mourvèdre,
which has long been planted in the area, has a fine
late ripening virtue that brings the sugar and
alcohol to make for a full-bodied red. Bellet is
even smaller and most of its wines is consumed in
the surrounding area, but ferreting out a bottle of
flinty Bourboulenc or Rolle (what the Italians call
Vermentino) is worth the effort for a
well-structured white wine. Cassis, increasingly
encroached upon by the expansion of the city of
Marseille, is tinier still, known for its white
wines made from Clairette and Marsanne. (It is not
to be confused with the cordial named Crème de
Cassis, which
is made in Burgundy.)
I have enjoyed Château Gassier ($25),
founded in 1982 and all organic, for its rosé is a blend of Grenache,
Cinsault, Syrah and Rolle, from clay
and limestone soil in the Cȏtes de Provence and
Cȏtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire appellations. It
is fresh and very ready to drink this summer with
Sacha Lichine is Bordeaux born but he was
educated and worked extensively in the U.S. before
becoming a highly
regarded negociant in 1990, since purchasing Chateau
d’Ésclans in Provence.
His Pale Rosé($18) is a simple but refreshing rose
of Grenache, Rolle, Syrah and Cinsault.
Château Malherbe makes rose, white and an
impressive red wine ($55) from Syrah, Mourvèdre,
Black Grenache made by the fourth and fifth
generations of the Ferrari family and crafted by
Jean Laburthe in collaboration with Burgundy’s
Philippe Pacalet.
Jean-Luc Colombo and winemaker Laure Colombo
(right) make a pretty Cape Bleu Rose
for only $19––one of those sip by the shore wines
with a baguette and French ham and cheese. ❖❖❖ ![]() BLOCK THAT METAPHOR! "Only the hungriest should
dare the chuletas can-can, a monument of pork: rib,
loin and belly, crisped and ruffled like a garter at
the Moulin Rouge." —Ligaya Mishan, "The Caribbean
Filtered Through One Chef's Imagination," NY
Times (7/8/25). , ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical
Advisor: Gerry
McLoughlin. If you wish to subscribe to this
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