MARIANI’S

 

Virtual Gourmet

 

August 10, 2025                                                                                                                                
                                                                                                                    NEWSLETTER

 


Founded in 1996 
ARCHIVE




Carole Lombard and Clark Gable at the MGM Commissary, 1936

        

❖❖❖

THIS WEEK
    THE VIEW FROM MOUNT OLYMPUS:
WHAT DID THE GODS EAT AND DRINK?

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
ST. URBAN

By John Mariani


HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
CHAPTER  TWENTY-TWO

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR   
THE WINES OF MICHIGAN
By John Mariani




❖❖❖



    THE VIEW FROM MOUNT OLYMPUS:
WHAT DID THE GODS EAT AND DRINK?

By John Mariani



 

         Rare is the Greek god or goddess who is not a cosmic annoyance to human beings. They are immeasurably flawed, vindictive, irrational, self-serving, mean-spirited and use their powers to outwit each other and mankind.        
      
They were also gluttons: According to Homer (left), the gods lounging atop Mount Olympus “feasted all day until sunset and ate to their hearts content,” then they would put up their feet and listen to music and poetry
.
         Dionysus  (right) was a god the Greeks most happily imitated. Called Bacchus by the Romans, he was the privileged son of Zeus himself and god of agriculture, who showed men how to grow wine grapes and make wine; he was also a  comic sower of decadence, though he was never depicted as obese by Greek sculptors.
         He would conduct his conquests surrounded by a retinue of Bacchii that included drunken satyrs and mad women known as maenads who wore crowns of snakes and would tear animals and enemies to pieces.
         The feasts celebrating Dionysus date to Attica, where a yearly wine festival was held during the winter solstice and grew into raucous, sexually charged, raunchy scenes in which masked men dressed in goat skins, giant phalluses were carried about and flaunted and dances tended towards the obscene.
        Drinking parties held in Dionysus’s honor, called sympósions (below), became very deliberate gluttonous events, despite Dionysus’s own dictum that a man should drink only three cups of wine at dinner: toasting the first to health, the second to love and pleasure and the third to sleep, after which a guest should go home to bed. Few paid much attention once the party got going.
         Such banquets were all male, with the exception of naked dancing girls, and the manners and rituals of inviting guests, making the menus and deciding on the entertainment were very involved. During a sympósion guests arrived, their feet would be washed by slaves, then they reclined on couches; a communal cup called a psycter (below) of aromatics was passed around, and the eating part of the banquet began. But the serious drinking came after dinner.
         The meal would consist of an enormous number of dishes.  A poem written around 400 BC called The Banquet describes a feast well appreciated by its enthusiastic author.
        

        In came a pair of slaves with a shiny table, and another, and
         another until they filled the room.
         They fetched in show-white barley-rolls baskets,
         A casserole— no bigger than that—call it a marmite, full of a 
        
noble eel with a look of the conger about him.
         Honey-glazed shrimps besides, my love,
         Squid sprinkled with sea-salt,
         Baby birds in flaky pastry,
         And a baked tuna, gods! What a huge one fresh from the fire                  
       
and the pan and the carving knife.
         Enough steaks from its tender belly to delight us both as long
          as we might care to stay and munch.
         . . . . Then the same polished tables, loaded with more good        
          
things, sailed back to us, “second table,” as men say
         Sweet pastry shells, crispy flapjacks, toasted sesame cakes              
        
drenched in honey sauce,
         Cheesecake, made with milk and honey, baked like a pie;
         Cheese-and-sesame sweetmeats fried in the hottest oil in               
         
sesame seeds were passed around.     

    At that point, with only small bites called tragemata to nibble on, the guests began to drink as much as they liked of wine cut two-thirds by water. If a man protested that he’d had enough wine and refused another cup, he had to perform some silly entertainment, like dancing naked or carrying the girl flute-player around the room. Parasites was the name given to those who arrived late to the party and mooched off the remains. Only around 500 BC were women invited to join the fun, but they were largely courtesans, prostitutes and female artists.
         How such a gentle philosopher named Epicurus became equated with  the term “epicureanism” as a license to excessive indulgence, particularly in food and drink, is a unfortunate because he actually advocated “katastematic pleasure” that is experienced through a harmonious state of mind free of mental distress and pain achieved through a simple life rather than by activating unnatural pleasures like gluttony that take hold of the mind’s free will.
   
In Homer’s Odyssey, the poet insists that while heroes need proper nourishment, mostly meat and bread, it would be foolhardy for them to indulge in gluttonous behavior. Nevertheless, in The Iliad the hero Odysseus is called by an opponent “wild for fame, glutton for cunning, glutton for war,” while Odysseus uses the word “glutton” to describe King Agamemnon as a “dog-faced” glutton” and “people-devouring king.” 
    When Odysseus sails into the clutches of the breathtakingly beautiful goddess Circe (left), she  turns  his men into swine with a drugged drink (she turns them back, too) and persuades him to feast with her and her maidens on “enough food and drink to last forever.” And then to bed. Odysseus and his men gave in to her seductions and stuck around the island  “day after day, eating food in plenty, and drinking sweet wine” for an entire year.
         But the candidate for Super Glutton is the god Herakles (Hercules to the Romans), a bastard son of Zeus whose wife Hera tried to abort him and afterwards tried to make his life miserable. Herakles (below) is, of course, a person of inhuman strength, but he emerges as a comic figure among Greeks who regarded his gluttonous antics as human foibles. From the earliest days of Greek drama Herakles is ridiculed for his brutish way of eating his food, his preference for a good meal versus a good woman and, in Aristophanes’s The Bird, even his reluctance to leave a barbecue in order to help save  his own father. In an earlier play, The Frogs, Aristophanes had also portrayed Herakles as a god led around by his nose at the thought of food, describing how in a trip to the underworld he had gobbled up sixteen loaves of bread, 20 portions of beef stew, a mess of fish and a newly made goat’s cheese—baskets included—then, bellowing and drawing his sword, skipped out on the bill. 
        
Though sometimes depicted in terracotta figurines from the 5th and 4th centuries BC as pot-bellied, overwhelmingly Herakles was sculpted in marble and bronze by both Greek and Romans as a male figure of daunting musculature with what today are called “killer abs.”
         Alexander the Great (below) was a mere mortal and a big drinker who on “
on such a day, and sometimes two days together, slept after a debauch.” On one occasion he held a drinking contest with 41 contenders chosen from his army ranks, others local citizens. Whoever drank the most would be awarded a crown worth a talent in gold––worth about $250,000 today.  One of Alexander's soldiers, named Promachus. won the prize after knocking down four gallons of wine (unmixed with water). But not everyone, especially the local people, was used to drinking so much wine, resulting in 41 deaths from alcohol poisoning.

       

Never defeated in battle, Alexander’s demise came at the age of thirty in 323 BC, in Babylon. The earliest reports say that after nights of excessive drinking, the young king fell ill with fever and died two weeks later. Others contend he was poisoned by his viceroy Antipater, while more modern conjectures propose the weary conqueror had picked up typhoid fever or meningitis or was done in by his over-use of the medicine hellebore, then prescribed as a purgative as well as for gout and signs of insanity.

 

 




❖❖❖


NEW YORK CORNER


ST. URBAN
43 East 20th Street
646-988-1544

By John Mariani




 

         Despite its refined, romantic design, its 3,000 bottle wine cache and  a chef with an exceptional career and recognition, the new Saint Urban, which just opened in the Flat Iron District this May, is not an easy place to report on to readers who will not have a chance to eat anything I recommend on a menu that will be totally changed each and every month to come.

         It is the same dilemma the Michelin Guide wrestled with for years in deciding whether or not to review a restaurant named Next in Chicago because the entire menu  changed  from Modernist Italian to Parisian  1906 to––I kid you not––interstellar space.

         It is a slippery slope Chef-and Sommelier owner Jared Ian Stafford-Hill has set for himself, after relocating Saint Urban from Syracuse (where it was by default the finest restaurant in Northern New York) to a Manhattan space that once housed the wine-focused Veritas, where he once worked. Prior to that his résumé included stages at Craft, Adour by Alain Ducasse, Gramercy Tavern and Union Pacific, all in New York. 

         The décor is completely new and enchanting.  Designed by Bentel & Bentel (they also did The Modern and Eleven Madison Park), it is not exactly minimalist but dispenses with flourishes. Largely it is done in earthen-gray stucco walls and finished oak, with splendid glowing glass-leaf sculptures  overhead and slatted wood louvers  evoking vine trunks. There is a pleasing contemplative ambience about the dining room, with a smaller room up at the entrance, and the focus on wine is clear from the moment you sit down. Saint Urban, by the way, was a Franco-German bishop deemed the patron of winemakers.

         The whole staff is wine-imbued and very knowledgeable, as they should be with a list as long and comprehensive as St. Urban’s. Stemware varies from wine to wine and all the amenities at the table are first rate.

         Stafford-Hill offers a  four-course themed tasting menu at $148,  seven courses at $188 and nine courses, called “Truffles and Unicorns,” at $235, plus wine pairings at three different levels of quality for $90, $175 and $410. The tasting menus are, by comparison to similar ones around New York, something of bargain––Restaurant Daniel, for instance, charges $235 for five courses; at Jean-Louis $298 for six; at Per Se $425.  

         I can readily say that the food, wine and service at Saint Urban are all impressive, but my remarks on what my wife and I were served are strictly based on the July menu featuring Tuscan cuisine. This was preceded by that of the Loire Valley in April; the Cȏte de Beaune in May; Spain in June; and, to come, the South of France in August and the southern Rhȏne in September. Which, of course, begs the question how can any chef, however experienced and talented, embrace so many cuisines with authority while refining them with his own take?

         I can only report that we dined with pleasure in July, with all dishes matched to appropriate wines and vice-versa.

At once a puffy, olive-oil moistened rosemary-flecked  focaccia and softened butter is presented while you sip a small aperitif. Three amuses bouches appeared––tender green fava beans with pecorino, lentils, oregano and olive oil; panzanella salad with a confit cherry tomato, cucumber, basil, smoked mozzarella and crouton; and braised Romano beans, with Tuscan sofrito and opal basil.

There is some choice within the courses to follow. We began with a lustrous slice of bluefin tuna (tonnato), dressed with basil and summer’s beans. There were two pastas: a rich dish of  cappelletti with sweet corn, morels and a dash of pecorino. Small, tender gnocchi were arrayed in a ragù of winey wild boar.

Wonderfully flakey and velvety poached sea bass was afloat in a deeply reduced minestrone aqua pazzo, while the Livornese seafood stew called cacciucco contained ample morsels of langoustine tail and snowy cod flavored and made aromatic with fennel and lemon. (Traditionally this dish contains five species of seafood like red mullet and scallops. )

Crisp-skinned guinea hen cacciatore (hunter’s stye)  with peppers and wild mushrooms was a more subtle dish than its name suggests, and then came a rectangle of beef called “alla fiorentina,” which would suggest a crusted but very rare ribeye, but this was instead closer to tournedos Rossini, in a luxuriously reduced demi-glace, almost as thick as chocolate syrup, served with eggplant, well-roasted onion and salsa verde.  (Incidentally, it’s good to see sauce spoons on the table here so one can lap up every bit of such savory sauces.)

Before dessert there was a slice of fine pecorino with arugula and chestnut honey, followed by a simple olive oil cake with summer fruits and delightful ricotta sorbet.

With each of these courses carefully selected Tuscan wines were poured, from a Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Carato 2019 and a Gaja Ca'Marcanda Vistamare 2022 to Campriano Chianti Classico Riserva 2012 s Fontodi Chianti Classico 2008 and a Casanova della Spinetta Toscana Sassontino 2006, among others.

It was a meal to applaud, and I would have loved for you, the reader, to have the opportunity to enjoy it, too, but you may have to wait another summer to do so. I can readily understand why high-caliber chefs like Stafford-Hill want to showcase their command and technique in a wide array of dishes, and, had the word “Tuscan” been taken off the July menu, it might have been served as a meal of the  season. But I’m afraid you’re on your own if you go this month or next or the one after that. Let me know how it is.

 

Open Tues.-Sat. for dinner.





❖❖❖


HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
 
By  John Mariani






CHAPTER  TWENTY-TWO

 

         Kōvar said, “It was a very excitable night, I can tell you that. It was about eight o’clock, and I had just come back from dinner with a Russian friend who was also staying in the hotel. We had had a Cognac in the bar, then I went upstairs to bed. I was in the bathroom when all of a sudden I began to feel strangely fatigued. I thought it was the wine and the Cognac, though I’d never felt quite that way before.  I went to bed and fell asleep quickly, but when I woke up I was feeling a little dizzy at first. I went in to sit on the bed, and my breathing became heavy and I started to cough violently. In some ways it felt like a flu when it first begins, but this was very, very fast. I tried to lie down and let it pass but by morning it was becoming more difficult to breathe every moment. My head started pounding, too. This was just not normal.”
         “What time was this?” asked David.
         “About nine in the morning. Then, outside my room I heard a great deal of bustling about, so I opened the door and found all these people in the hallway, many of them coughing and most bracing themselves on the hotel wall. I was walking very weakly, trying not to fall over. I passed my Russian friend’s door and banged on it but there was no answer, so I kept on to the stairs. We were only on the third floor so some of us walked down, holding onto the banister. From the first floor landing I could see, I don’t know, ten, fifteen people in the lobby, some sitting in a chair and others collapsed on the floor. The hotel night staff also showed signs of illness. Within moments more people staggered down the stairs and others literally fell out of the elevator door when it opened. It was terrible, and women started to scream in panic.
         “It felt like an eternity but I later learned the police and the ambulances were there at the front door within minutes. Next thing I knew I was being placed on a stretcher and carried to an ambulance. By then there must have been a dozen ambulances at the hotel, and the last thing I remember before passing out was the sound of police cars and emergency vehicles’ blaring horns coming from all directions.
         “I woke up in the hospital around five o’clock that evening with an oxygen tube in my nose.”
         “It all sounds terrifying,” said Catherine. “Not knowing what the cause was.”
         “At first I thought it was some kind of gas attack,” said Kōmar, “even though I didn’t smell anything. There was no smoke, no explosion. In the hospital I was told that it had been some kind of germ that had gone through the hotel and sickened everyone, or at least those below the seventh floor. Only later that day did I heard about the incidents at the other two hotels. It’s a terrible, terrible tragedy. But, at least no one has died from it. Yet.”
         “Did you ever find out what happened to your Russian friend?”
         “Ilya? No, I didn’t see him in the lobby when I stumbled down there. I remember that the  night before he got into the elevator with me just before the door closed. We went up to the third floor and I said, ‘After you, Ilya,’ but he said he was going up to another floor. Which was odd, now that I think of it, because his room was on the third floor where mine was. I don’t know where he was going. Maybe a business associate.”
         “So, this would have been before ten o’clock?” asked David.
         “Yes, perhaps eighty-thirty or nine. I started feeling really sick about around midnight.”
         The three Americans looked at each other, and Catherine asked, “Have you been in touch with this Ilya since the attack?”
         “No, we were not so close that he would come see me in the hospital, assuming he was not ill. Besides, all the patients were restricted from having visitors until we were released.”
         “So, you don’t know if Ilya did become sick or not,” said Katie.
         “No, I have no idea. He’s attached to the Russian Embassy here so you might inquire here.”
         “I think we’d better,” said David, glancing at Katie and Catherine.
         They did so immediately by showing up at the embassy on the Boulevard Lannes, just off the Bois de Boulogne. It was a brutishly modern structure with not a single reference to French architectural tradition. It was very wide, with two floors composed of two slabs, with an endless series of banal rectangular windows and a rooftop with visible heating and air-conditioning units and other box structures containing whatever it was they contained.
         The interior lacked any decorous interest as well, and it reminded Katie of the dreary quarters of the Russian security service headquarters in Moscow that Katie and David had visited on another investigation. There was a long desk manned by three attendants and four armed soldiers milling around the lobby.
         Catherine spoke to an attendant in French, explaining that they she was a journalist from CNN International and these were journalists from the United States.
         “We’d like to inquire if Ambassador Ilya Bazarov would be available to speak with us.”
         The woman asked what this was in reference to. Catherine said they were interviewing people who had been at the Hôtel Anastasia the night of the event. The woman said nothing but made a phone call, speaking in Russian. Two minutes later she picked up the phone, saying several times, “Da. . . da. . . da,” hung up then said, “I am afraid the Ambassador cannot see you at this time, but if you wish to e-mail some questions, I will see that he gets them.”
         Catherine said thank you and left her card, in case the ambassador wished to speak with her directly. The woman nodded, hit a buzzer to open the door and said, “Au revoir.”
         “That’s about the way I thought it’d go,” said Catherine, outside.
         “I’m sure Ilya is a very busy man,” David said sarcastically.
         “And I’m sure he would never answer our questions without having them in writing, then gone over by his superiors, if they’d let him answer at all.”
         David suggested their next stop should be to talk with Catherine’s concierge friend at the Anastasia. Katie said, “Why don’t you two go ahead. I’m going to try to speak with Dr. Baer as to any update on the virus.”
         Katie took the Métro back to her hotel, while Catherine attempted to reach her friend Yves, whose phone recorder said he would call back as soon as possible.
         “What now?” asked David.
         “Well, I’ve got to hustle to get to the fashion show. It’s Courrèges today, then Lagerfeld.”
         “Okay, I’ll just stroll the boulevards. I have to pick up my new jacket, too.”
       
    
When he was a cop, David knew most every neighborhood in New York and felt knowledgeable about most of them. He even spoke a little street Spanish, so he could make himself understood in various Latino neighborhoods. On the rare occasions he had been in a foreign country—outside of London and Dublin—he usually only had contact with English-speaking colleagues in the police departments. Katie had been able to handle Italian and French well enough so that he felt pretty comfortable when they had travelled to Rome, Naples and now Paris.
         Now here he was feeling sheepish and lost, reluctant to ask anyone for directions, still queasy about how to plot a trip on the Métro, and, even though he was getting hungry for lunch, he felt funny about opening a menu all in French. Why do so few Parisians speak English? he thought. So, to alleviate any fears of appearing like a total American jerk, he simply returned to his hotel and had lunch there. About an hour later, that’s where Katie found him finishing off a slice of tarte Tatin and coffee.
         Katie knew enough not to ask a question like “What are you doing here?” knowing it would sound like she knew the reason why David was having lunch in a safe place. So, she just said, “Hey, I’m glad you’re here. I just got off the phone with Baer and Catherine called and said we could go over to Yves’s apartment to speak with him this afternoon at four.”
        “Great news,” said David, signing his check. “Gives us time to pick up my new jacket. So, what did Baer have to say?”
         “She said that most people were being let out of the hospital and that they’re no longer infectious. Which means there are a lot more potential guests we could interview, I suppose. I asked her how serious the virus was, and she said that it had been carefully engineered not to be a killer, although the immediate effects were far more debilitating than a seasonal flu. She said that many of the elderly patients would probably remain in the hospital, and a few had developed pneumonia, which kills more old people than the virus itself, so there could still be some deaths.”
         “Meaning that whoever stole this particular virus knew that it was not all that deadly,” said David. “And that means that the attack was more of a scare tactic.”
         “Uh-huh, a tactic that would effectively put the hotels out of commission for a long time.”
         “Did Baer say how long?”
         “She said it’s hard to tell because, first, it’s a brand new virus, and second, because even if you scrub down and fumigate every interior surface, it could linger deep in the recesses of the air ducts for who know how long.”
         “So, there’ll be no way anyone will want to stay at those hotels until there’s a guarantee every trace had been wiped out.”
         “That’s what she suggested would be the case. And even after the hotels tell everyone they’re absolutely in no danger, how many people are going to take the chance?”
         “Which all coincides with our theory that this incident was not just to hurt and embarrass the Saudi owners but to make the value of the properties plummet.”
         “Frankly,” said Katie, “Whatever the Saudis spent to buy those hotels is a drop in their bucket, or should I say just a few buckets of oil. They must also be insured. I don’t know what French insurance companies are like, but this was obviously no act of God. I don’t know where they stand on terrorist attacks.”
         “Neither do I,” said David, “but I hear the insurers of all the 9/11 businesses are eventually going to have to pay billions.”
         “Well, we’ll see. Baer did say she didn’t expect any more widespread infections, although the people who did not get sick that night may not have had symptoms and might have carried the virus to wherever they went after the incident, but it’s a low probability.”
         The two had a couple of hours before the meeting with Yves, so they walked over to the men’s store to pick up David’s new jacket. He’d even put on a fresh shirt for the event.
         “Whaddaya think?” he said, hunching his shoulders up and down, the way men do when putting on a new jacket.
         “You look really good, very. . . debonair?”   
        “Maybe I should buy a beret and start tying my scarf the way they do over here.”
        “One step at a time, Monsieur, one step at a time.”
        David had to admit the jacket looked and fit a lot better than his old blazer. “Makes me look taller,” he said, pulling down his shirt cuffs.
    He paid the bill—which was more than twice what he’d ever paid for a jacket—extended his arm to Katie and said, “Well, Mademoiselle, may I have the pleasure of a stroll through Par-ee with you?”

 





©
John Mariani, 2024



❖❖❖











NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR




THE WINES OF MICHIGAN
By John Mariani
 



     Michigan homeboy Ernest Hemingway  wrote that “wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection.”  If he could return to the state today, he’d find a flourishing wine industry. Ten years ago the state had  56 vineyards spread over 1,800 acres,  producing 425,000 cases, 13th in the nation for wine production. Today the number of wineries in Michigan is 258 wineries spread over 3,300 acres of vineyards, bringing in more than $5.5 billion in wine sales and ecotourism; the state ranks seventh in the US for wine production.
    Most of the quality bottled wine of Michigan is produced in the five 
American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) of Fennville, Lake Michigan Shore, Leelanau Peninsula, Old Mission Peninsula and the Tip of Mitt. The Upper Peninsular is also gaining in interest and number of wineries.
   
    I was surprised to find that while some wineries still use foxy native grapes like Concord  ­­ice wines do well in the cold north––overwhelmingly sweet wines up through the 1970s, but these days more  are using French-American hybrids like Vignoles and Chambourcin and European varietals like Riesling, which  does well in cold climates. Northern Michigan areas like Traverse City, the Leelanau Peninsular, and the Old Mission Peninsular with more temperate microclimates do well with chardonnay and merlot. The warming of the climate should be a boon to the industry in the future.
     
Michiganders are very proud of their wines, ubiquitous in wine stores, groceries, and restaurants, and the vintners seem to delight in giving their
wines catchy, even wacky names, like Left Foot Charley, Karma Vista, Fishtown White, Sex, Detention, and Hotrod Cherry, along with Madonna, made by Silvio and Joan Ciccone, who happen to be the pop star’s mother and father.
    
What to look for? My favorites after a week of drinking only Michigan wines included  the bright, refreshing Bowers Harbor Vineyard Riesling ($15) from the Old Mission Peninsula (above).  Also fine was Chateau Grand Traverse Dry Riesling ($13), with a fresh, clean, briskness. The best red wine I tried was also from Bowers Harbor, a pinot noir with true varietal flavor reminiscent of some of the best out of Oregon, if not quite up to French Burgundy.
    
By the way, Michigan law permits shipping to “reciprocal states” only, so best check with Fed-Ex if you can get receive them where you live.  If so, try Folgarelli’s Wine Shop in Traverse City (231-941-7651).

 




❖❖❖

 




ACQUIRED TASTES NO
ONE NEEDS TO ACQUIRE

"To make skerpikjot, the signature dish of Faroese cooking, a freshly slaughtered lamb must be hung out to dry in the mineral-rich islands’ winds for so long that it starts to ferment. Then, reeking of death and coated with a fine layer of mould, the meat is ready to eat. It would be underselling it to describe skerpikjot as an acquired taste. While universally popular among Faroe Islanders, those from overseas may struggle to develop an appreciation."––"I tried mouldy lamb at the world’s most remote Michelin-star eatery at Paz in the Faroe Island." The London Times (7/25).





❖❖❖



 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




❖❖❖







The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

If you wish to subscribe to this newsletter, please click here: http://www.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html



© copyright John Mariani 2025




1622