MARIANI’S Virtual Gourmet
August 17, 2025
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() India Travel Poster 1934
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THIS WEEK SULMONA, ITALY By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER GRAND BRASSERIE By John Mariani HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR THE LAST ROSÉS OF SUMMER MAKE FOR GOOD AUTUMN WINES By John Mariani ❖❖❖
A DAY TRIP FROM ROME: SULMONA, ITALY By John Mariani ![]()
If you’ve ever attended an Italian
wedding you were probably given a netted bag
of confetti––white sugar-coated
almonds , as a parting gift. And chances are
they came from the town of Sulmona in
Italy’s Abruzzo region, and very probably
from Confetti Mario Pellino, which
has been producing them since 1783.
Located up a winding road, Sulmona itself is
fairly flat and easy to walk through, and
there are several very good restaurants that
feature the cooking of Abruzzo. Semina
Cucina Agricola, which is
committed to locality and seasonality within a
39 tasting menu of five courses. There’s a
lavish antipasto table at Ristorante
Hostaria del’Arco, and the pasta to have
is the tagliatelle with zucchini cream.
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NEW YORK CORNER GRAND
BRASSERIE
Grand Central Terminal By John Mariani ![]() I am
very greedy when it comes to using two words:
“grand” and “unique.” Though the name of the
restaurant in this review is a form of
self-description, it truly is in every way
grand. And indeed, it is unique, meaning one
of a kind and nothing like it.
It could hardly be otherwise, located as it is
within the glorious cavern of what had once been
Grand Central Terminal’s once dismal waiting
room, called Vanderbilt Hall, facing East 42nd
Street. Opened in 1913 and stunningly restored
in 1998, the 6,000 square foot space with
55-foot ceilings and gold chandeliers, the room
is now divided into exhibition space and Grand
Brasserie, whose décor by the Rockwell Group
respects all the finest features of the Beaux
Arts original, so that it would fit equally well
into a Paris train station of this size, similar
to Le Train Bleu in the Gare de Lyon, though not
as flamboyant.
The service staff,
beginning at the host’s station, is as affable
as they come, and, as at any good Parisian
brasserie, the kitchen sets a brisk pace for
serving the dishes from its highly traditional
French menu. For some reason,
French bistro/brasserie food has become
something of the rage in New York, with entries
like Le Veau d’Ȏr and Chez Fifi joining
established examples like Benôit and Bar Boulud.
The food is easy to love and familiarity breeds
contentment. It’s difficult not to love a menu
full of items like onion soup, trout amandine,
cassoulet and profiteroles. And it’s impossible
to resist the good crisp bread and butter
(though one small ramekin
There is a formidable wine list, French
heavy, as well as a short list of regional wines
available the glass, carafe (very good idea) or
bottle. Mark-up prices for
many bottles are actually below what you’ll find
at other restaurants.
There is a prix fixe dinner of three
courses for a very reasonable $65, though citing
seven dishes with supplements of $4 to $8 seems
a tad disingenuous. There’s also a three-course
pre-theater dinner for five dollars less, from 4
PM-6 PM.
Executive Chef Guillaume Thivet,
previously at Veronika at Fotografiska, Bouley,
Brasserie Les Halles and La Grande Bouchérie, is
a dyed-in-the-wool classicist who has been
making these dishes for decades, which is
obvious among the appetizers, like the paragon
of an onion soup gratinée with a coffee-dark
broth and a half-inch thick topping of bubbly
There is a section of dozen salads and
sandwiches true to
brasserie form, from a tangy salade
lyonnaise with frisée, lardons and poached
egg to a ham-and-cheese croque monsieur, even a
California French dip made with wagyu and a New
England lobster roll.
Among the main courses I
enjoyed the plump, crisp-skinned roast
chicken––which can feed two––and the trout
with buttered almonds and haricot verts. A
saddle of lamb might have had more of a
wine-rich reduction.
The steak frites section allows you to choose a
filet, a
bone-in strip at 14 ounces, an entrecôte at 14
ounces and a skirt steak. I ordered the strip
steak, which was good but not stellar. I think
the skirt steak, with its fatty chew might have
been a better option.
The kitchen really
excels with its desserts, including an always
welcome crème brûlée, an egg-shaped scoop of
dark chocolate mousse with crème Chantilly. The
profiteroles were big and fat with vanilla ice
cream and poured dark chocolate sauce. My
favorite of all was the tarte Tatin––the real
McCoy, for its being two-inches thick and dark
with caramel, not the skimpy flat tarte you so
often get. There are all sorts
of options, for brunch, pre-theater, lunch and
dinner, no matter what you feel like at any time
up until two AM, when the trains stop running––a
late night (and early morning) bonus you rarely
find anywhere else, especially at Manhattan’s
bistros and brasseries. It also needs
mention that prices are lower than trendier
competitors around town. As noted, dinner here
is $65, while it’s $125 at Le Veau d’Or; at
Grand Brasserie you’ll pay $69 for a whole roast
chicken and $72 for Dover sole Meunière, while
at Chez Fifi they’ll run you, respectively, $78
for half a chicken and $148 for the sole. And for all that
you also get a unique experience of dining in
one of America’s most wondrous public spaces,
and even catch a late train home after the
theater. Coming
into Grand Central Terminal into the Great Hall
is always an awe-inspiring experience, then to
find this spectacular Brasserie in the next room
should take anyone’s breath away. The
restaurant
is open from 5:30 am to 2 am, 7 days a
week, 365 days a year, operating at the same
hours as Grand Central Terminal. ❖❖❖
HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE By John Mariani ![]() CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE
Yves
Collard’s apartment was in Montparnasse (below),
not far from where David and Katie had had
their first meal together in Paris. He was
tall, lanky sandy-haired and in his
thirties, with horn rimmed glasses. He
apparently lived with a woman in the
one-bedroom apartment, and it appeared she
had been the decorator.
Yves
spoke
impeccable English, as demanded by his job. He
also spoke some Spanish, Italian and, given
the Anastasia’s history, a smattering of
Russian. He was as gracious off-duty as he
needed to be on-duty, deferential to his
guests. Katie asked him to call her and David
by their first names, but he kept addressing
them as Madame and Monsieur. © John Mariani, 2024 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
THE LAST ROSÉS OF SUMMER MAKE
Having
dutifully written my annual rosé wine article at
the beginning of summer, it seems worthwhile to
end off with a few more examples of the genre that
make for wonderful drinking well into fall or
winter. Many of the American rosés,
Italian and Pacific Rim I find are
often too sweet and some have a strange almost
fuchsia color that can be off-putting.
Of course, the rosés of France’s
Provence have long been a standard that others
either strive to meet When I was in my salad days, the rosé of Domaine
Ott was my choice for dinner with a
sophisticated girl who merited a better wine than
Mateus. Founded in 1896 by
Alsatian engineer Marcel Ott and now owned and
managed by Champagne Louis Roederer, the estate’s
three vineyards are quite different from one another
in terms of terroir: Château Romassan are in the
Bandol appellation, Clos Mireille and Château de
Selle both Côtes de Provence.
Château
Romassan 2024 ($69)
has a bigger
profile, reflecting the terroir of Bandol, a port
town located just to the west of Toulon, best known
for its red wines (although the majority of the
grapes grown are used for rosés). It has a very
pale, opalescent color and, served either more or
less cold, is brisk and silky. Ott acquired the
château in 1956 in the foothills of the village of Le Castellet. The soil
is actually quite poor––limestone, sandstone, and
marine upper cretaceous marls––and the vineyards
terraced, so the grapes have to struggle a bit to
prove their worth. But sea salt from the bay helps
the wine’s acidity and the Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache
grapes are very selectively
picked and sorted by hand, then fermented and aged
in thermo-regulated stainless steel vats 4-6 months.
It is very refreshing, terrific with mild cheeses
and a fish like branzino or red mullet. Ott’s
website contends it will be just as good in 2029,
though this is not a wine to save but to savor. 2023
Étoile
Rosé 2023
($175) is a cuvée, that is, a blend of 85% Grenache
and 15% Mourvèdre from the finest parcels from Clos
Mireille and Château de Selle. It has considerable
depth––it should for $175, although I’ve
seen it on-line for less––and has more of a saline
character than Ott’s other rosés, owing to limestone
coils of Selle and
calcareous sandstone and sandy marl soils at
Romassan. It is peach-colored, has a citrus tang as
well as faintly sweet fruit notes. Here’s a rosé to
consider for bluefish and grilled chicken or seafood
risotto.
Sparkling rosés are increasingly popular,
not least Champagnes, and the Telmont Estate has
put a big push into being among the most
environmentally correct producers, aiming to convert
100% of its cultivated
areas and its partners’ to organic agriculture by
2031. In addition they are going after the small
details, like using recycled glass and green
bottles, not using cardboard gift boxes and
shipping all wines to the U.S. aboard wind-powered
Neoline ships. Telmont’s 60 acres
are located in Damery, Épernay, established in 1912
and now a fourth generation estate making eight
crus, since 1999 under Bertrand Lhôpital. (Actor Leo
DiCaprio is an investor.) Its Reserve Rosé ($87) is
a blend of grapes from four different harvest, made
from 87% Chardonnay and 13% Meunier. Oddly, for a
rosé there is no Pinot Noir in the blend, though
Meunier is a red grape. It has a lovely rosy color,
rich flavor and fruitedness but is quite dry on the
palate and finish. Its finesse makes it fit for sole
meunière, lobster and crab and aged cheeses. ❖❖❖ THEY
ALSO SELL FAKE ROLEXES
❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance,
inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find
this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
his master back from the edge of despair. WATCH THE VIDEO! “What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw “He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906. “John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister. “John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury. “Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment. ❖❖❖
MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish.
Contributing
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