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MARIANI’S Virtual
Gourmet SEPTEMBER 28,
2025
NEWSLETTER Founded in 1996 ARCHIVE ![]() Claudia Cardinale
1938-2025
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THIS WEEK AMERICAN VS FRENCH WAITERS By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER PARIS CAFÉ By John Mariani HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE By John Mariani NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR FAMIGLIA DE CERCHIO IS WORKING TO BRING THE WINES OF ABRUZZO TO GLOBAL ATTENTION PART TWO By John Mariani ❖❖❖
AMERICAN VS FRENCH WAITERS THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE HOPELESS By John Mariani ![]()
For better
or worse, stereotypes often do have a basis
in real life, like the bewilderment as to
why you can’t get a decent bagel outside of
New York or a good gumbo outside of
Louisiana.
When it comes to people and national
stereotypes, the slope becomes slippery,
unless the stereotype happens to be one
enjoyed by a particular segment of society,
like rocket scientists and brain surgeons.
There are, however, such
things as national traits, even if they vary
by region––Texas leaps to mind––so when making
comparisons between American and French
restaurant waiters I admit that there are some
on both continents who epitomize the highest
standards and others who are totally inept at
their jobs.
These abuses happen in France, too, but to a
lesser extent because European customers have
more of a rapport with their waiters and a
respect for their profession. The stereotype
of the snooty mustachioed French waiter owes
more to Hollywood comedies than reality, but
many Americans abroad bristle if a waiter
doesn’t speak or understand English or bridle
at one who seems icy, rather than an American
waiter who pretends
The stereotype of the “sassy” American
waitress is just as much a stage character as
a reality, and some restaurants even have a
winking pride having staff who can playfully
insult a customer aware of the game. Remember
the waitress Flo “Kiss my grits” Castleberry
in the 1970s sitcom Alice and Max
Black on 2 Broke Girls?
French waiters are well trained to perform
many tableside tasks that would stymie
American counterparts, such as deboning a
whole fish, cutting a roast chicken or flaming
a dessert. They also don’t wear silly outfits.
Then there is the
question of the hours worked: in France it is
rare that guests arrive before one PM for
lunch (two PM in Spain) and eight for dinner.
But they may also arrive as late as ten or
ten-thirty (in Greece that would be early). So
the work hours extend from seven (for prep) to
eleven or midnight in France. In the U.S.,
lunch might begin at 11 AM and dinner at 5
PM––Early Bird Dinners are appalling to the
French––and trail off by 9:15. Nevertheless,
I’ve found it all too often the case that
around nine o’clock American waiters simply
disappear like frightened birds
I have always believed that if I owned a
restaurant I’d post a sign in the kitchen
saying, “If you’re not ordering or picking
up food, get out of this kitchen!”
Being a waiter is hard
work––and I’ve done it––but in the U.S. it
slows down after nine o’clock, when the
busboys kick into high gear to clear plates.
By then waiters have finished taking orders
for the night. Outside of big cities, many
restaurants empty out by nine. In Los Angeles
movie people are famous for heading home by
nine to be on the movie set by six the
following morning. In fact, most American
cities are not late-night towns.
All things considered,
I’d rather have a knowledgeable, attentive
waiter with a professional demeanor than one
who is overly chummy, interruptive and often
gone from the dining room. I’ve had many of
both and
all kinds in between, which is the best of
both world. I wish everyone should have the
same.
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NEW YORK CORNER
THE PARIS CAFÉ By John Mariani ![]() Back in the 1870s, had you booked a
room at Henry Meyer’s Hotel near New York’s
South Street Seaport, you might have run into
Teddy Roosevelt, Thomas Edison, Wild Bill
Cody, Annie Oakley and Butch Cassidy and the
Sundance Kid at the tavern he named The Paris
Café. And while sipping on a Manhattan
cocktail you could have watched the
construction of the Brooklyn Bridge spanning
the East River.
It is, therefore, wonderful to find that
new owners have taken over The Paris Café and
restored it with respectful finesse to look like
it’s just opened its doors. Thanks to
Legeard Studio and OPUS Hospitality, the dining
room retains its tin ceiling and pewter-topped
bar, mosaic tile floors and brass appointments,
while adding the welcome modernity of good
lighting. On the slow night I visited, the noise
level was quite pleasant, with music well in the
background.
The menu is largely Parisian bistro
inspired, overseen by chef Benjamin Wolff, a
Jersey boy who’s worked in New Orleans and in New
York at
Racines
and put in time as a fishmonger at Greenpoint Fish
& Lobster Co., as well as running a bread
business for two years out of his apartment. He
told me that seafood is his favored kind of
cookery and that French cuisine without
too much fuss is what he is now committed to. He
is not, as yet, taking any flights of fancy,
instead honing his skills with the classics like
puffy cheese gougeres (right). You
may well start off with raw oysters with a
mignonette sauce or a plateau de la mer
for two or four. There
is a creamy foie gras terrine with buttered
housemade brioche for a starter, or perhaps snails
done in the Burgundian style with viscous, piping
hot green garlic butter. As you’d find in any café
bistro in Marseille, briny mussels are sloshed
with Pernod, tarragon and espelette pepper and
sided with very good French fries.
There are only four plats principaux on
the menu, which seems a tad skimpy, but you’ll be
quite happy with the filet mignon (below)
lashed with an assertive black pepper sauce, with
more of those French fries. Loup de mer (branzino)
is steamed within parchment paper with Provençal At a time
when whole roast chickens are costing $100 and
more at uptown restaurants, it is applause-worthy
that Wolff’s is only $75, and it will feed four
people. You also get creamy, rich mashed potatoes.
A hamburgers has long become a staple of bistro
menus, and at Paris Café it comes with grass-fed
beef (as it would in France), with caramelized
onions, pickles and Wisconsin Red Rock cheddar,
which was fine, but the seeded bun tasted
like it came from a supermarket.
Pastry Chef Emma Scanlon toes the bistro line with
rich dark chocolate mousse, crème brûleé and a
most welcome clafoutis of nectarines with
Cognac-laced crème anglaise.
At the bottom of the dessert list is a tower of
pastries, cookies and meringue called, for some
reason, “La Revolution,” which were quite good but
not for a whopping
$60. In some restaurants these mignardises
and sweet bites––albeit just a few––are given
gratis at the end of a meal.
The wine list at The Paris Café is carefully built
for depth and breadth, with a decent number of
bottlings $100 and under.
You cannot help come through
the doors of Paris Café without smiling,
especially if you recall the prior days when it
had little culinary appeal. Now it’s bright and
shiny and beautiful once again, the food is on the
mark and the location could hardly be more
evocative of what was once called Little Olde New
York. Open
Tues.-Sun.; Sat. & Sun. for brunch. ❖❖❖
HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE By John Mariani ![]() CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE
Catherine
went back to the office to edit the footage
with her producer—she was very relieved
Bazarov had spoken English—and by the late
afternoon the spot was on the air. The fact
that hers was the only interview any
journalist had garnered from the Russian
gave her an enormous boost among her
colleagues, both in and out of CNN. Catherine wasted no time
the next day trying to reach Bazarov, who, as
she expected, returned her call within an
hour. Without indicating in any way that he
was being held against his will at the
embassy, he suggested meeting the following
evening and asked if they might go to that
Canadian restaurant she mentioned. The time
was set for eight o’clock.
© John Mariani, 2024 ❖❖❖ NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
FAMIGLIA DE CERCHIO IS WORKING TO BRING THE WINES OF ABRUZZO TO GLOBAL ATTENTION Part Two By John Mariani ![]() Federico De Cerchio, the fourth generation scion of a wine estate in Abruzzo estate that dates back to 1910, has invested heavily to improve the reputation of the region’s Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. In Part two of my interview he speaks of factors he must contend with to sell his prestigious Torre Zambra wines. What
is the importance of Villamagna, which has had a
DOC since 2011? It’s not just our home, the
place where I was born and raised but also a unique
terroir shaped by both human skill and geographical
location. Our community has been cultivating
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes since the 1950s. We are
only eight miles from the seaside and ten miles from
the Majella mountain—the second highest peak in
central Italy and one of the tallest in southern
Europe. This proximity creates a special microclimate,
with sudden temperature shifts between day and night
as well as between seasons, allowing us to produce
wines that are complex, elegant, and suitable for long
aging.
Without going too much into
technical details, the Villamagna DOC regulations are
very strict in terms of yield per hectare, vineyard
altitude, and exposure. Only hillside vineyards facing
south, southeast, or southwest are included—ensuring
maximum sunlight throughout the year and the best
possible growing conditions. How
many producers are there in Villamagna? There
are nine wine producers in our area, and seven of them
make Villamagna DOC wines. Has
global warming been a factor yet in the
propagation of your vineyards? Has it affected
alcohol levels? Of course, and we could
clearly see it especially after 2020. Vintages like
2023 and 2024 have been particularly difficult to
manage. Exceptionally, this has pushed vintners to
return to our traditional growing system, called the Abruzzo
Pergola.
In this system, the leaves form a kind of protective
canopy over the grapes, like a green mantle, shielding
them from hail and extreme heat. It’s incredible how a
growing method invented in the 1960s has become even
more relevant today than it was in the past. As for alcohol levels, I
haven’t noticed much of a difference. A good
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has always ranged between
14.0% and 15.0% alcohol for as long as I can remember. The
number of young people in the current generation
are showing less interest than did Gen X and Gen
Yon drinking wine. Why is this happening and how
can you re-kindle interest? Nobody wakes up in the
morning saying, “I want a gin & tonic,” “I want a
beer,” or “I want a non-alcoholic drink.” We are all
influenced by the power of marketing. Companies in
other beverage sectors have been much better at
marketing their products and engaging younger
audiences than wineries and wine producers have been. The wine world has taken for
granted that people will always drink wine—and in the
same quantities—because they always have. I think 2025
is a wake-up call for the wine community. We need to
listen to new consumers, understand their preferences,
and learn how to communicate with them effectively. Is
it more important to get your wines covered in the
wine media or in restaurants? They
are both important. I would say that media comes
first, chronologically speaking, because it gives
restaurateurs the chance to learn about a wine, a
winery, or a region. How
much do you export? How much to the U.S. and
Canada? We export over
95% of our production, but in 2025 we have seen strong
growth in the local market. By the end of the year,
our export share might decrease slightly to around
92–93%. In 2025, Canada overtook the US, accounting
for over 30% of our exports compared to 25% for the
US. This shift is mainly due to tariffs, which slowed
down the American market this year. However, I believe
that in the coming years, the USA will continue to be
our primary export market, as it has always been.
According
to EU Regulation 2022/428, Article 3, the only wines
prohibited from being sold to Russia are those priced
over €300 ex-cellar and classified as “luxury
products.” Therefore, it is not illegal to sell wine
to Russia, even though exports have fallen by 90%
compared to pre-war levels. Do
you feel conflicted about selling wine to Russia
when it is involved in a brutal war against
Ukraine? Of course I do, but on the
other hand, I have customers in Russia who are friends
and with whom my family has been working for over 30
years, since the fall of the Soviet Union. I grew up
with their children; we went on vacations together.
They are good people—one of them isn’t even
Russian—who have nothing to do with politics, yet have
seen their businesses devastated by the current
situation. Beyond conflicts between
countries, there are personal relationships, which I
believe come first. This is a very, very difficult
time for my friends, and I will never turn my back on
them when they need me most. That said, this situation
is terrible, and here in Europe, we all hope it will
end very soon. You
now own five estates, with three in Abruzzo. What
do you see in terms of expansion for Famiglia De
Cerchio wine group in the next five years? We will continue to focus on
our jewel, the Torre Zambra estate, and keep investing
in wine tourism in the town of Villamagna, as well as
in promoting our own appellation, the Villamagna DOC.
We plan to increase the number of guestrooms and
enhance the services we offer our visitors.
Additionally, we are opening a new restaurant in the
heart of the town—a beautiful location with just 40
seats—where we will serve traditional Abruzzo cuisine. ❖❖❖ ![]() MUST HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE FUMES
❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
(21st Century Lion Books) is a novella, and
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their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their
barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise.
But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
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MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET
NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher
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