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  SEPTEMBER 28, 2025                                                                                                        NEWSLETTER

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Claudia Cardinale
1938-2025

        

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THIS WEEK
AMERICAN VS FRENCH WAITERS

By John Mariani

NEW YORK CORNER
PARIS CAFÉ

By John Mariani


HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
CHAPTER  TWENTY-NINE

By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR
FAMIGLIA DE CERCHIO IS WORKING TO BRING
THE WINES OF ABRUZZO TO GLOBAL ATTENTION
PART TWO   

By John Mariani




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                                 AMERICAN VS FRENCH WAITERS
                                                                THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE HOPELESS

                                                                    By John Mariani


 

    For better or worse, stereotypes often do have a basis in real life, like the bewilderment as to why you can’t get a decent bagel outside of New York or a good gumbo outside of Louisiana.

     When it comes to people and national stereotypes, the slope becomes slippery, unless the stereotype happens to be one enjoyed by a particular segment of society, like rocket scientists and brain surgeons.

    There are, however,  such things as national traits, even if they vary by region––Texas leaps to mind––so when making comparisons between American and French restaurant waiters I admit that there are some on both continents who epitomize the highest standards and others who are totally inept at their jobs.

    Let’s start there, with jobs: In the U.S. a waiter is more often than not just doing a job––the stereotype of the aspiring actor who waits tables, which includes Jennifer Aniston, Sandra Bullock, Lady Gaga and Madonna, is absolutely true. (It’ s interesting that a Google search for French actors who were waiters turns up just one name: Alain Délon.) In France (and most of Europe) being a waiter is considered a profession, and it is one that is based not on tips, which are minimal, but on a good salary with benefits. France does have a 35-hour work week (known as the Loi Aubry) but waiters may choose to work overtime. Minimum wage is between €8.43 and €11 per hour, or €1,300 to €1,750 per month––the average French person makes €1,000––but that includes health insurance, retirement and other benefits, which would be a rarity in a U.S. restaurant, where the federal minimum wage is $2.13 and the average income for a waiter is about $35,000 a year, based on an hourly $17.70, including tips.  

         In large cities like New York, DC, Houston and Chicago, however, a waiter at a higher-end restaurant where the cost of a meal can run over $100 per person can easily make $70,000 to $100,000 a year, which would be highly unlikely in France.         Nevertheless, except for long-time waiters who have committed to the job as a profession, waitering is for most Americans a first job or a way-stop until something better comes along. For that reason, many who take the job are not well trained or even all that interested in the rules, niceties and nuances of a job that takes skill, stamina, psychology and a sure degree of stifling anger. Rudeness and insults by customers are frequent, sexual harassment always lurking, and the threat of losing a good tip can deflate even the bubbliest of personalities.

    These abuses happen in France, too, but to a lesser extent because European customers have more of a rapport with their waiters and a respect for their profession. The stereotype of the snooty mustachioed French waiter owes more to Hollywood comedies than reality, but many Americans abroad bristle if a waiter doesn’t speak or understand English or bridle at one who seems icy, rather than an American waiter who pretends to be your pal. You never hear French waiters announcing their names or saying, “That dish is one of my favorites!” or “You guys still working on that?”

    The stereotype of the “sassy” American waitress is just as much a stage character as a reality, and some restaurants even have a winking pride having staff who can playfully insult a customer aware of the game. Remember the waitress Flo “Kiss my grits” Castleberry in the 1970s sitcom Alice and Max Black on 2 Broke Girls?

    French waiters are well trained to perform many tableside tasks that would stymie American counterparts, such as deboning a whole fish, cutting a roast chicken or flaming a dessert. They also don’t wear silly outfits.

    Then there is the question of the hours worked: in France it is rare that guests arrive before one PM for lunch (two PM in Spain) and eight for dinner. But they may also arrive as late as ten or ten-thirty (in Greece that would be early). So the work hours extend from seven (for prep) to eleven or midnight in France. In the U.S., lunch might begin at 11 AM and dinner at 5 PM––Early Bird Dinners are appalling to the French­­––and trail off by 9:15. Nevertheless, I’ve found it all too often the case that around nine o’clock American waiters simply disappear like frightened birds from the dining room, seemingly to take a break or to make phone calls, whatever. In France I have never found that to be the case, because by nine o’clock service is in full swing and keeps going full tilt past eleven.

    I have always believed that if I owned a restaurant I’d post a sign in the kitchen saying, “If you’re not ordering or picking up food, get out of this kitchen!”

    Being a waiter is hard work––and I’ve done it––but in the U.S. it slows down after nine o’clock, when the busboys kick into high gear to clear plates. By then waiters have finished taking orders for the night. Outside of big cities, many restaurants empty out by nine. In Los Angeles movie people are famous for heading home by nine to be on the movie set by six the following morning. In fact, most American cities are not late-night towns.

    All things considered, I’d rather have a knowledgeable, attentive waiter with a professional demeanor than one who is overly chummy, interruptive and often gone from the dining room. I’ve had many of both  and all kinds in between, which is the best of both world. I wish everyone should have the same.

 

 

        



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NEW YORK CORNER


                    THE PARIS CAFÉ
                                                                    119 South Street
                                                                        646-386-7038

                                                                        By John Mariani


 

         Back in the 1870s, had you booked a room at Henry Meyer’s Hotel near New York’s South Street Seaport, you might have run into Teddy Roosevelt, Thomas Edison, Wild Bill Cody, Annie Oakley and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid at the tavern he named The Paris Café. And while sipping on a Manhattan cocktail you could have watched the construction of the Brooklyn Bridge spanning the East River.

         Restaurants that have survived through two centuries would be a rarity anywhere, especially in New York, where everything seems torn down and replaced every ten years. Delmonico’s still thrives on Beaver Street; Fraunces Tavern (though a reconstruction) is on Pearl Street; McSorley’s Ale House, Pete’s Tavern, the White Horse and the Landmark Tavern still pack them in, and Brooklyn’s Peter Luger and Gage & Tollner are always busy. Not a bad record.

         It is, therefore, wonderful to find that new owners have taken over The Paris Café and restored it with respectful finesse to look like it’s just opened its doors.

Thanks to Legeard Studio and OPUS Hospitality, the dining room retains its tin ceiling and pewter-topped bar, mosaic tile floors and brass appointments, while adding the welcome modernity of good lighting. On the slow night I visited, the noise level was quite pleasant, with music well in the background. The rear dining room (left) has live music on weekends.

         The menu is largely Parisian bistro inspired, overseen by chef Benjamin Wolff, a Jersey boy who’s worked in New Orleans and in New York  at  Racines and put in time as a fishmonger at Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co., as well as running a bread business for two years out of his apartment. He told me that seafood is his favored kind of cookery and that French cuisine  without too much fuss is what he is now committed to. He is not, as yet, taking any flights of fancy, instead honing his skills with the classics like puffy cheese gougeres (right).

You may well start off with raw oysters with a mignonette sauce or a plateau de la mer for two or four.  There is a creamy foie gras terrine with buttered housemade brioche for a starter, or perhaps snails done in the Burgundian style with viscous, piping hot green garlic butter. As you’d find in any café bistro in Marseille, briny mussels are sloshed with Pernod, tarragon and espelette pepper and sided with very good French fries.

    There must always be onion soup buoyed by sweet caramelized onions and layered over with browned Gruyère and baguette toast––a dish that hints that autumn is well on its way. Niçoise pissaladière (left) comes as a flatbread of savory caramelized onions and saline anchovies on puff pastry. But bland steak tartare would have been better with more assertive seasonings.

    There are only four plats principaux on the menu, which seems a tad skimpy, but you’ll be quite happy with the filet mignon (below) lashed with an assertive black pepper sauce, with more of those French fries. Loup de mer (branzino) is steamed within parchment paper with Provençal tomatoes, lemon, fennel, olives and Pernod, emerging with all those flavors suffused throughout the fish.

At a time when whole roast chickens are costing $100 and more at uptown restaurants, it is applause-worthy that Wolff’s is only $75, and it will feed four people. You also get creamy, rich mashed potatoes.

    A hamburgers has long become a staple of bistro menus, and at Paris Café it comes with grass-fed beef (as it would in France), with caramelized onions, pickles and Wisconsin Red Rock cheddar, which was fine, but the seeded bun  tasted like it came from a supermarket.  

    Pastry Chef Emma Scanlon toes the bistro line with rich dark chocolate mousse, crème brûleé and a most welcome clafoutis of nectarines with Cognac-laced crème anglaise.

    At the bottom of the dessert list is a tower of pastries, cookies and meringue called, for some reason, “La Revolution,” which were quite good but not for a whopping  $60. In some restaurants these mignardises and sweet bites––albeit just a few––are given gratis at the end of a meal.

    The wine list at The Paris Café is carefully built for depth and breadth, with a decent number of bottlings $100 and under.

    You cannot help come through the doors of Paris Café without smiling, especially if you recall the prior days when it had little culinary appeal. Now it’s bright and shiny and beautiful once again, the food is on the mark and the location could hardly be more evocative of what was once called Little Olde New York.

 

Open Tues.-Sun.; Sat. & Sun. for  brunch.

 

 

 



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HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE
 
By  John Mariani






CHAPTER  TWENTY-NINE



    Catherine went back to the office to edit the footage with her producer—she was very relieved Bazarov had spoken English—and by the late afternoon the spot was on the air. The fact that hers was the only interview any journalist had garnered from the Russian gave her an enormous boost among her colleagues, both in and out of CNN.
         Katie called to congratulate her and offered to take her out to dinner, wherever Catherine wanted to go. Not surprisingly she chose her friend Jacques’s restaurant, so, with David along, they made a date for eight-thirty.
         “Bazarov looked like he was trying real hard to charm you off camera,” said Katie.
         “Oh, God, yes. ‘How about dinner when this is all over, Madame? Let’s fly off to Russia to see them scoop caviar out of the fish, Madame.’ It’s not the first time one of these ambassadors—who have very high opinions of themselves—has tried to put the moves on me. They do it with all the women journalists. But then, so do all the French dignitaries. The Italians are the worst.”
         Jacques brought out some canapés and a bottle of Champagne. He and David started chatting.
         “What I did find really weird,” said Catherine, “was all this inquiry about poutine. Y’know, those gloppy Canadian French fries? He said he’d had them in Montreal and asked where he might find them in Paris and that he and I should really go eat them sometime.”
         “He said all that off-camera?” asked Katie.
         “Yeah, all he wanted to talk about was poutine poutine!”
         David turned his head to Catherine and said, “Sorry, what about Putin?”
         Catherine laughed, “Not Putin, poutine.”
         And then it dawned on the three Americans.
         “Bazarov was trying to send you a message,” said Katie.
         “Oh my God,” said Catherine. “Of course that’s why he kept talking about poutine!
         “He’s trying to signal you that his glorious President, Vladimir Putin, is involved in the crime, and that he was just the fall guy and wants out.”
         “And if he is able to get out of the Embassy and have dinner with me at some Canadian bistro, he’ll tell me more.”
        “If he gets out of the Embassy and meets you at a bistro, he’s going to bolt,” said David. “He’s going to want asylum because he knows that Putin will hold him responsible for botching the crime, or at least for allowing the finger to point back to Moscow.”
         Katie chimed in, saying, “And you think that he thinks the French will let him off the hook for the crime?”
         “He’ll still be protected by diplomatic immunity,” said David, “although I don’t know exactly how that would work if he defects. Sure as shit he’s going to offer the French a goldmine of information about Putin and how the hotel jobs were arranged. The trick now is how to get him out of the Embassy.”
         “Send in Inspector Clouseau!” said Catherine. “Somehow he always gets his man.”
         David smiled broadly. “That is not a bad idea.”
         “What?” said Katie, “hire Peter Sellers to come back from the dead and break into the Russian Embassy?”
        “No, no, no, but what this game needs is someone who’s a bumbler, someone who can disrupt the Russians’ plans while Bazarov gets away.”
         “And how do you propose we do that?” asked Catherine.
         “First, you entice him out of the Embassy for dinner.”
         “And why would the Russians let him do that?”
        “Because your interview got him on the record explaining and denying his role in the crime. If you were to say you would like to do a follow-up because you had new information but that you did not want to do it in the Embassy because it’s too restrictive, they might let him dine with you, albeit with Russian security men in tow.”
         “So, I do my interview without cameras and sound crew?”
         “Yes, just you and him in a bistro eating those stupid potatoes with gravy or whatever. They’ll probably have him bugged so that he doesn’t say anything compromising.”
         “And if he knows that he can’t tell me anything we don’t already know, what’s the point?”
         “The point is,” said David, “that the interview is not the point. Allowing him a way of getting out of the bistro without having the security guys on top of him is the point.”   
        
“And what if the security guys are really good at their jobs?” asked Katie.
         “Just have Borel’s men waiting outside with an unmarked van. Leave the rest to me.”

         Catherine wasted no time the next day trying to reach Bazarov, who, as she expected, returned her call within an hour. Without indicating in any way that he was being held against his will at the embassy, he suggested meeting the following evening and asked if they might go to that Canadian restaurant she mentioned. The time was set for eight o’clock.
         That done, David called Borel to tell him Bazarov might be trying to defect and that the dinner with Catherine was a pretext for surrendering to the police.
         “We can’t just dash into the restaurant and arrest a foreign diplomat,” said the detective. “He’s going to have his security men there to make sure that wouldn’t happen.”
         David then told Borel of his plan, which he believed would give Bazarov an opportunity to exit the restaurant and willingly give himself over to Borel’s custody. The detective said it sounded like a very dubious and quite risky plan that assumed a lot on Bazarov’s part.
         “Just have a van outside the restaurant ready to go. What have you got to lose?”
         Borel agreed to the plan, believing that Bazarov had every reason to want to defect, and, if he did, he would probably not face criminal charges for the hotel attacks.
         Catherine had already asked Bazarov if Katie could join them at dinner, describing her as “a very attractive American journalist who had won many awards for her writing.” All Bazarov said was, “How could I resist?”
         David still had not filled in Katie and Catherine on the details of his plan to allow Bazarov to escape, because he said it needed an element of surprise. He said only that Catherine should give clues to Bazarov in conversation, then, at the right moment, tell him to leave the restaurant.
 
      
The three Americans got to the restaurant an hour early to assess the exits and to watch for the possible early arrival of Russian security, whom David said he could spot with his eyes closed.
        The Moose Bar & Grill was in the Sixth Arrondissement near the Sorbonne, the better to draw a clientele of students. Its décor would have fit quite easily into any corner of Montréal or Québec, with a wall of rough, rustic stones, another of red brick, with a long bar, tall tables with stools and regular dining tables with chairs. The menu was pub food and included eighteen variations of poutine. It also featured several Canadian beers and whiskeys.
Katie and Catherine were well received by the staff, while David went to the bar, ordered a bottle of Molson and watched one of the large-screen TVs. The women chatted with one of the owners, who was Canadian, about America and Canada, then, around 7:30, took a table close to the exit and pretended to nurse a round of beers, saying they were expecting a guest within the hour. Katie told Catherine it might be better if they took an outdoor table, and Catherine said they’d better let Bazarov decide. Both noticed a black van parked at the curb.
        A few minutes later a tall, brawny man who looked Eastern European entered the restaurant and looked around—David spotted him immediately—taking in every corner, doors to the rest rooms and the proximity of tables. Right at eight o’clock Bazarov entered, followed by another tall man who joined the first at the bar.
    Catherine greeted the Russian ambassador cordially, saying, “It’s such a beautiful night, Mr. Ambassador, should we eat outside? It could get very busy in here. There’s an important soccer match playing tonight, and the place will get jammed.”
    Bazarov glanced at the two security men and said, “A good idea. I have no interest in soccer, especially when I have two such lovely American ladies like yourselves to dine with.”
    The conversation began with small talk, Bazarov asking questions about Katie’s background and how Catherine thought their last interview had gone over. Catherine flattered him, saying it had very high ratings throughout Europe and had played on CNN in the U.S.  They then looked at the menu, and Bazarov was amazed at the number of poutines listed. They ordered three of them, some other pub fare and beers. David was nibbling on a plate of poutine at the bar, while the security men pretended to be drinking beers they ordered but barely touched.
    “Have you ever thought of asking for an assignment in America or maybe Canada?” asked Katie. “There are many places that are very similar in landscape to Russia.”
    Bazarov laughed and said, “You are talking to one Russian who hates the cold. I have never been to Siberia and”—he leaned in slightly—“I have no interest in going there.”
    Katie thought that was a subtle sign of Bazarov’s desire to defect.
    “Of course, I know all the American and Canadian diplomats, and we get along very well.” He then reeled off several names, as if to suggest the Americans might contact the embassy’s offices about the prospects of being re-assigned by Russia to one of those postings.
    “Are there any openings?” asked Catherine.
    “I am very hopeful,” said Bazarov, “that there will be an opening and I hope it may be very soon.”
    “I’ll snoop around and see what I can find out from people I know.”
    “That would be very good of you. . . may I call you Catherine? And you, Katie?”    The women said of course he could if they could call him Ilya. The security men kept their eyes on the table from the bar, even though their view was often blocked by an increasing flow of people coming into The Moose. Bazarov was seated with his face visible to them, the women with their backs to them.
    As the conversation continued along friendly lines, Catherine removed a small piece of paper from her inner pocket and placed it in front of her. Then, she slowly turned it over. On it was written, “THE BLACK VAN.” Bazarov looked at the two women, his eyes slightly widened, then to the side, where he did indeed see a black van with its rear door ajar. He knew what he was being offered. He then looked at the bar where the Russians were straining to see above the crowd. Katie caught David’s eye, smiled and simply nodded, twice. With that David got up from his stool at the bar and started to speak loudly in English, shouting curses at the soccer players on the television. He nudged against a couple next to him, and the man said, “Watch yourself, eh?” David flicked his hand at the man and said, “I’m not going to stand here and watch this crap,” then, visibly stumbling, walked towards the door and seemed to lose his footing, crashing against the two Russians.
    The two men picked him up and shouted something in Russian and David shouted back at them, grabbing one by the arm. From the outside table Bazarov could see what was happening and looked at Catherine.
        
“Go!” she said quietly. “Get to the van.”
        
Bazarov’s mind was flooded with bewilderment but realized that with the Russian guards momentarily detained by David that he could bolt for the van, whose rear door was now fully open. Bazarov had only three long steps to get to it and he was helped up by two men who followed him in and slammed the door. The van took off and sped down the street.

 

        



©
John Mariani, 2024



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NOTES FROM THE WINE CELLAR



FAMIGLIA DE CERCHIO IS WORKING TO BRING
THE WINES OF ABRUZZO TO GLOBAL ATTENTION
Part Two    

By John Mariani

 




    Federico De Cerchio, the fourth generation scion of a wine estate in Abruzzo estate that dates back to 1910, has invested heavily to improve the reputation of the region’s Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. In Part two of my interview he speaks of factors he must contend with to sell his prestigious Torre Zambra wines.
 

What is the importance of Villamagna, which has had a DOC since 2011?

It’s not just our home, the place where I was born and raised but also a unique terroir shaped by both human skill and geographical location. Our community has been cultivating Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes since the 1950s. We are only eight miles from the seaside and ten miles from the Majella mountain—the second highest peak in central Italy and one of the tallest in southern Europe. This proximity creates a special microclimate, with sudden temperature shifts between day and night as well as between seasons, allowing us to produce wines that are complex, elegant, and suitable for long aging.

In 2011, the Ministry of Agriculture recognized this excellence by awarding our area its own appellation: the Villamagna DOC. Today, it is considered the most prestigious micro-area for the production of high-quality wines in Abruzzo. With just about 150 acres of total vineyard surface, it is also the smallest DOC in Italy.

Without going too much into technical details, the Villamagna DOC regulations are very strict in terms of yield per hectare, vineyard altitude, and exposure. Only hillside vineyards facing south, southeast, or southwest are included—ensuring maximum sunlight throughout the year and the best possible growing conditions.

How many producers are there in Villamagna?

There are nine wine producers in our area, and seven of them make Villamagna DOC wines.

Has global warming been a factor yet in the propagation of your vineyards? Has it affected alcohol levels?

Of course, and we could clearly see it especially after 2020. Vintages like 2023 and 2024 have been particularly difficult to manage. Exceptionally, this has pushed vintners to return to our traditional growing system, called the Abruzzo Pergola. In this system, the leaves form a kind of protective canopy over the grapes, like a green mantle, shielding them from hail and extreme heat. It’s incredible how a growing method invented in the 1960s has become even more relevant today than it was in the past.

As for alcohol levels, I haven’t noticed much of a difference. A good Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has always ranged between 14.0% and 15.0% alcohol for as long as I can remember.

The number of young people in the current generation are showing less interest than did Gen X and Gen Yon drinking wine. Why is this happening and how can you re-kindle interest?

Nobody wakes up in the morning saying, “I want a gin & tonic,” “I want a beer,” or “I want a non-alcoholic drink.” We are all influenced by the power of marketing. Companies in other beverage sectors have been much better at marketing their products and engaging younger audiences than wineries and wine producers have been.

The wine world has taken for granted that people will always drink wine—and in the same quantities—because they always have. I think 2025 is a wake-up call for the wine community. We need to listen to new consumers, understand their preferences, and learn how to communicate with them effectively.

Is it more important to get your wines covered in the wine media or in restaurants?

They are both important. I would say that media comes first, chronologically speaking, because it gives restaurateurs the chance to learn about a wine, a winery, or a region.

How much do you export? How much to the U.S. and Canada?

We export over 95% of our production, but in 2025 we have seen strong growth in the local market. By the end of the year, our export share might decrease slightly to around 92–93%. In 2025, Canada overtook the US, accounting for over 30% of our exports compared to 25% for the US. This shift is mainly due to tariffs, which slowed down the American market this year. However, I believe that in the coming years, the USA will continue to be our primary export market, as it has always been.

It is currently illegal to sell wine in Russia, yet you say you have been able to get around the restrictions? How so?

According to EU Regulation 2022/428, Article 3, the only wines prohibited from being sold to Russia are those priced over €300 ex-cellar and classified as “luxury products.” Therefore, it is not illegal to sell wine to Russia, even though exports have fallen by 90% compared to pre-war levels.

Do you feel conflicted about selling wine to Russia when it is involved in a brutal war against Ukraine?

Of course I do, but on the other hand, I have customers in Russia who are friends and with whom my family has been working for over 30 years, since the fall of the Soviet Union. I grew up with their children; we went on vacations together. They are good people—one of them isn’t even Russian—who have nothing to do with politics, yet have seen their businesses devastated by the current situation.

Beyond conflicts between countries, there are personal relationships, which I believe come first. This is a very, very difficult time for my friends, and I will never turn my back on them when they need me most. That said, this situation is terrible, and here in Europe, we all hope it will end very soon.

You now own five estates, with three in Abruzzo. What do you see in terms of expansion for Famiglia De Cerchio wine group in the next five years?

We will continue to focus on our jewel, the Torre Zambra estate, and keep investing in wine tourism in the town of Villamagna, as well as in promoting our own appellation, the Villamagna DOC. We plan to increase the number of guestrooms and enhance the services we offer our visitors. Additionally, we are opening a new restaurant in the heart of the town—a beautiful location with just 40 seats—where we will serve traditional Abruzzo cuisine.

 


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MUST HAVE SOMETHING
TO DO WITH THE FUMES


"Why Are Gas Station Hot Dogs So Delicious?" By Cara J. Suppa, Food Republic (7/27/25)












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 Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com.



   The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope you'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy found in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. 

WATCH THE VIDEO!

“What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this book and its message.” – Actress Ali MacGraw

“He had me at Page One. The amount of heart, human insight, soul searching, and deft literary strength that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Perhaps ‘wow’ would be the best comment.” – James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.


“John Mariani’s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise event flips the action of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it’s the perfect antidote for the winter and promotion of holiday celebration.” – Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Club and A Gift for my Sister.

“John Mariani’s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat – a mash-up of the cosmic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming – a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself… but read it. Early and often. Highly recommended.” – Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton’s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Road To Woodbury.

“Amazing things happen when you open your heart to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his best friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family, love, and loss.” – Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.




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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)

Modesty forbids me to praise my own new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, now included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and production stats. Most important, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have changed the way we cook, eat and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Child to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra First, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




Now in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan)  has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the entire world. From ancient Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-class ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the world's changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never be the same after reading John Mariani's entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This book is such a tasteful narrative that it will literally make you hungry for Italian food and arouse your appetite for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today. 

"Italian restaurants--some good, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Food Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled chronicle by food-and-wine correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.


"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy’s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani’s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy’s cuisine put gusto in gusto!"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and just plain fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (let's face it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than one surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial director of The Daily Meal.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the impact of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This book will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

                                                                             








              

MARIANI'S VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly.  Publisher: John Mariani. Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani,  Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

 

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© copyright John Mariani 2025




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