MARIANI’S
Virtual
Gourmet
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THIS WEEK BURGOS, SPAIN By John Mariani NEW YORK CORNER BELLA LUNA By John Mariani HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE CHAPTER THIRTY By John Mariani ❖❖❖
THE GOTHIC GRANDEUR OF BURGOS, SPAIN By John Mariani ![]() Cathedral Santa Maria de Burgos
Thanks
to Spain’s high-speed and highly efficient
train system, the northern Castilian city of
Burgos is only about two hours from just
about every other major city in the
country––San Sebastián, Pamplona, Madrid;
Bilbao is only 90 minutes away. Which is
ideal because, while Burgos is a city of
great charm and medieval beauty, you could
reach it on a day trip or use Burgos as a
convenient base from which to explore those
other cities.
The city’s medieval
architecture is exemplified by its French
Gothic Cathedral of Santa María, built between
the 13th and 15th
centuries, with magnificent ornamented bell
towers, and is the resting place of El Cid (Rodrigo
Díaz de Vivar), Spain’s 11th
century national hero. In
the 15th century the church was
expanded and ornamented in the late flamboyant
Gothic style, though a century later its dome
collapsed. Re-construction began immediately
to create an even
You enter the historic center through any
of twelve the tall portals gates, and Burgos
is very much a walking city, with vehicular
traffic banned in the old town, whose streets
wind through the quarter, its façades well-
scrubbed of centuries of grime. The main
square, just below the Cathedral, is a meeting
place throughout the day and night for the
locals and tourists, and the streets that
branch off from there offer numerous restaurantes,
tapas bars and cafés where you’ll find the
special foods of Burgos, which include morcilla
blood sausage with rice, onions and
seasonings, known throughout Spain.
The best times to visit
Burgos are in spring and fall, because,
although it has a dried climate than many
cities in Spain, the heat can be brutal. Fine
hotels can be found along the Calle Fernán
González for under $120. ❖❖❖
NEW YORK CORNER
BELLA LUNA 574 Columbus Avenue 212-877-2267 By John Mariani
The first rule of an Italian restaurant
is to be simple and delicious; the second is to
make everyone feel completely relaxed. Many
newer Italian restaurants in New York, like
Rezdȏra, Via Carota and Carbone, serve good food
but possess an atmosphere of such ear-splitting
intensity that the idea of having a relaxing
night out if impossible.
On a recent evening I dined outside, with light
traffic sailing south on the wide expanse of
Columbus Avenue. It was easy enough to tell that
most patrons were from the neighborhood, and
owners Turgut
Balikci
and Guray
Yuksel seem to know everyone; if they
don’t, a newcomer is welcomed with open arms.
The interiors is lovely, with a restored
landscape mural and umbrella-like rattan
chandeliers and a ceiling festooned with
greenery. Service, overseen by manager Ilia
Sejdho, is as homey as the décor.
Bella Luna’s menu has evolved slowly over four
decades with certain dishes like the meatballs
of veal and beef in tomato sauce finished
with ricotta and fresh basil set the tone
of the cooking here: hearty, generous and full
of flavor.
If you are a party of four, you might want to
start with any of six pizzas, or perhaps a
panzanella salad of tomato, cucumber, red onion,
buffalo mozzarella, garlic croutons and a red
wine vinaigrette. Our table of four ordered two
plates of the large langostinos in a reduction
of seafood and served with crusty bread for
sopping it up.
Main courses stay simple, including large
grilled lamb chop with French fries and a
terrific braised lamb shank (left) with
freshly made pappardelle. Chilean sea bass was
gently cooked to be succulent, dressed with
olive oil.
The desserts are housemade, including a
very good tiramisù (below),
Bella Luna’s wine list is surprisingly
modest, listing less than thirty bottlings from
known producers, but the prices are certainly
attractive, with most about $50 and none above
$90. All are available by the glass, too.
I am in no doubt that, after 35
years, Bella Luna has legions of West Siders as
guests every night, but, since it is an easy
drive across the GW Bridge or down from the
Westchester, it is certainly a consideration for
anyone who has an afternoon planned at the Fifth
Avenue museums, the Museum of Natural History or
New-York Historical Society. It is a delightful
spot with charm but without pretense. You’ll
feel welcomed. You’ll be back soon. Open for lunch and
dinner daily; Sat. & Sun. For brunch. ❖❖❖
HÔTEL ALLEMAGNE By John Mariani ![]() CHAPTER THIRTY
From that point on, everything picked
up steam in the investigation. Now that
Bazarov was in police custody, Marciano, Salah
and Massot felt his testimony would
corroborate theirs and give them more leeway
to work a deal. By comparing notes the police
could piece it all together, and Bazarov was
the key.
Across a table set with recording
equipment, Bazarov and his French attorney faced
Borel and the DGSI people. The Russian looked
exhausted but still sat up straight and kept a
look of seriousness without any sense of
intimidation. There were bottles of Vittel and
Badoit water on the table and an espresso
machine in the corner. © John Mariani, 2024 ❖❖❖
"Summer is for
romance, and this year I had the fling of a lifetime
with the Hollywood Farmers Market. What a pleasure
it is to be seduced by fruit in high-summer Los
Angles.”-- NY Times (8/23/25). ❖❖❖ Any of John Mariani's books below may be ordered from amazon.com. The Hound in Heaven
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this to be a treasured favorite. The story
concerns how, after a New England teacher, his wife and
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But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and
the spirit of Christmas are the only things that may bring
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